Prague, a City of Fantasy by Barbara Stodola I Wish I Could Be in Prague When the Snow Begins to Fall
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THE TM 911 Franklin Street Weekly Newspaper Michigan City, IN 46360 Volume 27, Number 47 Thursday, December 1, 2011 Prague, A City of Fantasy by Barbara Stodola I wish I could be in Prague when the snow begins to fall. In this enchanting city of ancient bridges and towers, monasteries and synagogues, legendary saints and golem and galloping knights, I would not expect the snow to turn into workaday slush, nor to accumulate in heavy mounds to be shoveled. No, it would fall picturesquely, dusting the cobblestone streets and Baroque sculptures with a fi ne white powder. It would glisten like Bohemian crystal in the shop windows. It would stimulate the retelling A painting of folk tales, many of which take place during win- of St. Wenceslas ter holidays. adorns the Good King Wenceslas, who walked barefoot façade of a through the snow to feed the poor on Christmas Eve, house in Old is still a popular fi gure in central Prague. Larger Town. than life, on a charging steed, his statue commands Wenceslas Square – a broad avenue with graceful Art Nouveau buildings and trendy stores named “New York” or “Van Graaf” and throngs of college students sitting on the pavement with their back- packs. I had the good luck to be in Prague on the feast- day of St. Wenceslas, which is actually the 28th of September – and the only day in the year when the public can see his tomb. It is sequestered in a jewel-studded private chapel in St. Vitus Cathedral, a Gothic structure high on the hill overlooking the city. His feastday is a holiday for school children, and they are taken to Wenceslas Square to watch minstrels, pop music and demonstrations of black- smithing. An equestrian statue of Wenceslas, King of Bavaria, dominates Wenceslas Square in Prague. Prague Continued on Page 2 THE Page 2 December 1, 2011 THE 911 Franklin Street • Michigan City, IN 46360 219/879-0088 • FAX 219/879-8070 In Case Of Emergency, Dial e-mail: News/Articles - [email protected] email: Classifieds - [email protected] http://www.thebeacher.com/ PRINTED WITH Published and Printed by TM Trademark of American Soybean Association THE BEACHER BUSINESS PRINTERS Delivered weekly, free of charge to Birch Tree Farms, Duneland Beach, Grand Beach, Hidden 911 Shores, Long Beach, Michiana Shores, Michiana MI and Shoreland Hills. The Beacher is also delivered to public places in Michigan City, New Buffalo, LaPorte and Sheridan Beach. Prague Continued from Page 1 haps none is more revered than the The beloved Infant Jesus of King Wenceslas Prague, a small was murdered in wax statue in the 925 A.D. by his Church of Our jealous brother Lady Victorious. Boleslav – but The story here is is not to be con- that Princess Po- fused with Wenc- lyxena von Lob- eslas IV, four kowicz had re- centuries later, ceived the statue who put to death as a wedding gift, another popu- brought it from lar saint, John Spain to Prague, of Nepomuk. As and presented it the story goes, St. to the Carmelite John was the con- nuns. The statue fessor of Queen is credited with Johanna, and he protecting Prague refused to tell On the feastday of St. Wenceslas, a tour from plague and guide dresses up in a kingly costume, the king what se- destruction. Its just for fun. crets his wife had St. John of Nepomuk, oldest statue doll-like charac- revealed in confession. So Wenceslas IV had him on the Charles Bridge. ter has endeared thrown into the Vltava River. the Infant Jesus to generations of worshippers, who Today the remains of St. John of Nepomuk are express their affection by sewing and embroidering in a beautiful silver casket, also up in St. Vitus Ca- special-occasion costumes for the little statue. Hun- thedral. And his statue, cast in bronze, is situated dreds of these are on display in the church museum. with twenty-nine other saints and martyrs lining historic Charles Bridge. Encircling his head is a halo with seven stars, because seven stars miracu- lously appeared in the sky above the place where he drowned. St. John of Nepomuk is the patron saint of discretion, fl oods and slander. Contemporary Czech his- torians are doing their best to separate myth from fact, but it is this peculiar blend that casts its unique spell over the city of Prague and its country- side. Even Hitler, in his romp through the Sudetenland, did not destroy what was in his path. Even the Russian Com- The damask robe and munists, during forty years of ermine cloak, a gift from occupation (1948-1989), left the Italy to the Carmelite hallowed places virtually un- nuns (1968), is one of many costumes made touched. St. Wenceslas chapel, in St. Vitus Cathedral, is richly ornamented for the Infant Jesus of Among the holy fi gures, per- with frescoes, statuary and semi-precious stones, and opened Prague. to the public once a year. THE December 1, 2011 Page 3 Look no further than Dan Coffey At the baroque Church of Our Lady Victorious, the Infant Jesus of Prague is displayed in an ornate gold tabernacle. Vintage Victorian home built in the second half of the 19th century (local history says 1865). 3 bedrooms, 2.5 baths. This house transports you back to that time with the only modernization being the kitchen with In 1968, when the Czech uprising against the professional stove and 2 Communist occupation failed, the Infant Jesus re- drawer dishwasher. Floors, window styles, trim inside ceived new capes and robes from around the globe, and out, plus siding are gifts of sympathy. vintage or replacement Although the Czechs are known for their religious vintage. See more details at tolerance and well-preserved houses of worship, remaxhc.com/10052366 the actual practice of religion is among the world’s 2-3 bedroom condo with lowest. About 60% declare themselves agnostics or elegant kitchen, hideaway atheists. Their churches today are frequently used loft room (possible 3rd as concert halls. Performances of classical music bedroom) and upper deck to listen to the world without and opera can be found almost nightly in Prague. being a part of it. 2 baths, Mozart is a favorite. The composer conducted the one with relaxing steam premiere performance of Don Giovanni in Prague, option. 9’ ceilings and gracious rooms. 3 blocks and Hollywood produced the fi lm Amadeus. Much from Lake Michigan. of the movie was set in the Archbishop’s Palace, on $329,000 the grounds of the ancient castle. Afterwards, Czech See more details at remaxhc.com/11059869 President Vaclav Havel had the costume designer for Amadeus do new uniforms for the castle guards Property is currently being – spiffy blue jackets with gold braid and brass but- used as a spacious art gallery, a 40’ x 28’ shop for painting or three dimensional art, and a pleasant, comfortable apartment that includes a kitchen, sitting room and 3 bedrooms. Parking for 10 cars behind the property. Toward the east end of New Buffalo across the street from 2 thriving restaurants that generate high traffic. The Archbishop’s Zoned commercial. Palace, in the castle Residential permitted use square, was used in Commercial Zone. Public access to Lake Michigan as the setting for just down the street and the Hollywood fi lm, over the bridge. Amadeus. See more details at remaxhc.com/11039466 T: 269.469.5635 E: [email protected] W: remaxhc.com remaxhc.com works on your SmartPhone too! 10234 Community Hall Rd. Union Pier, MI 49129 harbor country Prague Continued on Page 4 THE Page 4 December 1, 2011 Prague Continued from Page 3 Barbie dolls. Fifty years of good old American Bar- bie, right across the road from Mozart. The biggest show in town is still the 15th cen- tury astronomical clock on the Old Town Every hour a skeleton symbolizing Death inverts an hour glass and pulls on a rope, whereupon two windows open and we can see the twelve apostles in proces- sion, led by St. Peter. Following this display, a cock The Toy Museum in crows and the clock chimes the hour. And that’s not Prague honored the all. The clock also shows the movement of sun and American Barbie doll on her 50th birthday. moon through the twelve signs of the zodiac. Every hour on the hour. tons – because, we are told, “After the Communists, he was so tired of khaki.” Statuettes of Don Giovanni, in his velveteen breeches and thigh-high boots, can be found in the souvenir marionette shops, along with princesses, court jesters, buxom peasant girls, the whole musi- cal comedy ensemble. Prague is famous for its pro- duction of marionettes, and for puppet shows. Con- sidering such fascination with dolls and costumes, it should not have surprised me to fi nd, just outside the castle courtyard, a museum exhibit devoted to Heraldic emblems, placed on buildings throughout the city, maintain a medieval spirit. Shops specializing in Bohemian crystal display the The Astronomical Clock, primary tourist attraction in Prague. glassware for which the country is famous. 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