WINTER 2018 Vol. 45 No. 4 Quarterly Journal of the Wilderness Canoe Association

Running Beam Rapids (CII), approximately 20 kilometres north of Mattice.

Where the Rivers are Wild: A Journey Down the Lower Missinaibi and Moose Rivers Story and photos by ErikThomsen

The cold subarctic gales, driving rains, unrelenting head - your endurance and fortitude. You may question why you winds, the ruggedness of the lands, the turbulence of the wa - do it. ters – the Missinaibi and Moose Rivers in northern But it is here that you will find colours you have never may well put you on a threshing floor and strip you down seen and Gods that you never knew existed. Swallows will to your rawest emotions. Isolation, desolation, fear, and at flicker as they feed in the dimming dusk, the Aurora Borealis times, utter despondency; nature here is unforgiving, un - will dance through the northern sky as it has for aeons and compromising, and is capable of testing the upper limits of you will edge closer to answering the great questions. Rising mists over the Missinaibi at dawn of our first day on the river. This photograph was taken from the public park on the east bank of the Missinaibi in Mattice.

On these mighty rivers, yet free and mixed boreal forest that surrounds the exchange their goods, and the many untamed, you will find a glory that glacier-scoured shores of Missinaibi doomed canoeists who had been caught binds all, through the ages, who have Lake, in the heart of the Chapleau in the alluring flow of the river above ever gazed over the expanses of the Game Preserve. From there, the head - the falls before being drawn into its wild and endeavoured to solve the mys - waters of the Missinaibi, I followed its deadly maw. tery beyond. narrow serpentine flow northward, past Beyond Thunderhouse, I studied the It was under a purple pre-dawn sky, the train bridge and abandoned Missinaibi’s sudden confluence with on an unseasonably crisp July morning Hudson’s Bay Company post at the Mattagami to form the Moose that I sat on the grassy banks of the Peterbell, over the notorious, raging River, and I wondered about the expan - Missinaibi in Mattice, Ontario, con - waters of Greenhill Rapids, and beyond siveness of the sky – this is a region sumed by that very sense of mystery. the town of Mattice. I envisioned this known for its vast, low-lying, impene - Amongst the early morning bird song rolling river and its rapids cutting deep trable muskeg and stunted vegetation. and through a swirling mist, I watched through thick stands of black spruce, In the lowlands, it is the mercurial the river abidingly as the ascending sun balsam fir and tamarack. multi-tonal sky that prevails as the crept slowly above the horizon. In a Continuing north and northeast, I dominant feature of the landscape. few hours, our group of four longtime contemplated the immense, earthshak - At last, I traced the ever-widening friends would finally launch our canoes ing power of Thunderhouse Falls – the river further north to Moosonee and and begin our 316 kilometre journey to place where the river begins its dra - Moose Factory, further still to James the isolated Cree community of matic, roaring descent off the Canadian Bay and ultimately to the Ocean Moosonee, on the edge of . Shield and into the itself. For many years I had traced the Lowlands. I thought of Algonkin As I looked over those maps, I course of the Missinaibi and Moose shamans who practiced rituals here thought of the bald eagle soaring high Rivers on my topographic maps. I had over millennia, the traders and Bay men above the spires of its lonely domain; pondered the sweeping breadth of the who used the falls as a meeting place to the timber wolf roaming wild and free

2 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 through the dank hollows of the dark northern coniferous taiga and this place of shadows; the woodland caribou run - ning as unconstrained as the river itself. I thought of the power of the moon and how it heaved the cold ocean waters of the Bay 15 kilometres inland and up - river. I thought of the smoky-white bel - uga breaching the briny waters near the mouth of the Moose, and the mighty polar bear rambling along the desolate, cobble coastline in the southernmost extent of its global range. This is how our rivers were meant to be. Over its magnificent, free-flowing course, the Missinaibi takes its travel - ers back 8,000 years to the retreat of the three-kilometre-thick Wisconsin Ice Sheet, which covered all of Ontario during the last ice age. With the melt - ing of the glacier, the uplands of the Missinaibi region became habitable to hunters of the central plains, and over

Paddling under gloomy skies at the bottom of Black Feather Rapids. Though not visible in this photograph, Black Feather Rapids is a massive boulder field; lining/wading may be necessary depending on water levels.

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 3 Second of three drops at Thunderhouse Falls (low water levels). Note the suspended driftwood at the top left of the frame; at high water, the river crashes over most of the exposed rock visible in this picture. millennia, the migration of these river is virtually devoid of development stiff southerly headwinds, to reach hunters followed the retreating glacier and exploitation. Incredibly, pic - Thunderhouse Falls. Arriving there in further north. tographs, ruined Hudson’s Bay the dim iridescent glow of the late af - At the time of European arrival and Company forts, and gravesites survive ternoon, we were greeted by a large settlement in the 16th century, the river to this day. These age-old relics serve golden eagle perched, like a sentry, was well utilized for hunting and travel to remind the traveler, unequivocally, atop the twisted skeleton of a dead tree. by Michipicoten Ojibwe in the south that every moment of his journey in Under the ominous flight of this majes - and Moose Cree in the north. By the this precious land is fleeting. tic creature, we continued down the late 1770s, and for 140 years thereafter, It was with these thoughts that our 1,650-metre portage trail towards the the Missinaibi and Moose Rivers be - journey down the Missinaibi finally cliffs that overlook Thunderhouse came one of the most important canoe commenced on that chilly morning in canyon. routes in the North American fur trade July. Gazing down this vast, sweeping Thunderhouse is comprised of three as the most direct link between the artery is a clear, ancient pathway, voluminous, cascading drops that col - posts on Hudson Bay and Lake shrouded symmetrically by stately lectively measure upwards of 15 me - Superior. emerald palisades atop sloping grassy tres. The dark, yellowish waters of the But unlike many other famous, his - shores. The landscape is simple, if not Missinaibi, in high water, crash over torical routes – the Ottawa, the austere. The dark river winds far into those drops with a violence that would Mattawa, the French – signs of moder - the distance, over turbulent rapids, falls perhaps rival any wild river in the nity here remain sparse. Bridges span and boulder fields. province. Below the falls, the river set - the river only four times in its course, It took our group two days, paddling tles placidly into a glorious canyon set and beyond the town of Mattice, the almost 60 kilometres from Mattice, into 35 metres below the forest. The canyon

4 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 is punctuated by a lone pillar of gneiss, ous, untamed fury, had come alive, as if ahead, the next day brought no re - known as Conjuring House Rock, to warn us of the challenges ahead. prieve. For most of the morning, we which towers 20 metres out of the The next day, through steady rains, waited for the weather to improve, but water. we continued our descent off the Shield failing that, decided to launch our boats We set camp on the brink of these and encountered our next major obsta - under a lull. Within two kilometres the cliffs and gazed contentedly over the cle – Hell’s Gate Canyon. The massive rainstorm intensified, and with no obvi - serenity of the lower falls, Conjuror’s cascading falls that characterize this ous place to gain shelter on the scrubby, Rock and the canyon’s east wall for a secondary canyon are dangerous and waterlogged banks, we forged ahead. long time. We admired the reflection of caution must be exercised on approach After 10 more kilometres – our rain the dying sun as it glimmered off the of the portage, given the speed of the gear saturated, and a hypothermic chill foamy waters below and gave audience river and obscured trailhead. Once affecting us all – we finally staked shel - to the canyon even as darkness took ashore, we struggled through the knee- ter at the mouth of the Coal River. hold and the northern winds began to deep mud that glazed much of 2,300- Here, with a depleted morale, we swirl. metre trail. Unfortunately, both the de - waited for the rain to abate again, be - The wind came quickly and with teriorating conditions and thick, twisted fore getting back into our boats and scant warning. Dark clouds swept brush shrouding the trail discouraged pushing to camp at Pivabiskau River. across the purple twilight; foliage us from exploring the canyon to any For 120 kilometres and three days of began to roar and trees began to sway great extent. Thus, forward we travelled travel past Thunderhouse Falls – and and crackle; our fire raged in a wild, on to the river and to the high clay despite it being early summer – we en - uncontrollable frenzy; heavy drops of bluffs of Bell’s Bay, where we laid our dured cold temperatures, soaking rains, rain battered our tents as thunder shelter for the night. desolate skies and steady headwinds. crashed above. The canyon, in a glori - While we dreamed of warmer days Our battered muscles struggled for

Paddling upstream through Thunderhouse Canyon to view the falls.

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 5 Sundown on the Moose River at our rocky island campsite. This vantage, which follows the river to the north, demonstrates the austerity of the Hudson Bay Lowlands.

Staying warm on the Moose River as night takes hold.

6 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 every centimetre of progress. Those places – and was speckled with wild is - We climbed from our canoes, pulled days invoked harsh lessons on the dis - lands and gravel bars. The trees and them onto the land and began to stake passionate and fickle indifference of vegetation, sitting atop the distant out our shelters. I erected my tent in a Nature and the futility and meagreness banks of the river, grew short, clearly protected groove near the middle of of humanity within it. influenced by the long, harsh subarctic the island. This location afforded a It wasn’t until our last afternoon on winters of the region. At times it was supreme southerly vista across this the Missinaibi, before its confluence possible to be 400 metres from shore expansive low-lying portion of the with the Mattagami, that the conditions and resting in just 20 centimetres of Moose. The river here stretched for a began to improve. That afternoon, the water. In other instances, the river be - kilometre from bank to bank and dis - sun gleamed through the clouds and came deep and susceptible to large tant shores were visible for many kilo - warmed our skin for the first time in al - waves. metres to both the north and the south. most a week. The next day, though the The day grew late – it was our Upon building my shelter, I escaped headwinds remained persistent, we fi - eighth evening on the river and the sun into the brisk northern air to explore the

Racing the sun on the Moose River to Moosonee. nally paddled onto the Moose River was suspended in the sky. At around 9 island and collect driftwood for a fire. with large swaths of blue sky overhead. o’clock we pulled our boats onto a The sun, at this point, was setting Almost immediately after reaching large bar of sand and cobblestone in the slowly in the most incredible array of the Moose the landscape changed dra - middle of the river. The island held no orange and pink that, perhaps, I’ve ever matically again. The river widened sig - trees, but was crowned with shrubs and seen. Bank swallows emerged from lit - nificantly – almost a kilometre in offered sufficient respite. tle holes in the sun-baked riverbank on

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 7 Group picture on the Missinaibi. From left to right: Mike Cameron, Chris Brophy, Lachlan McVie, Erik Thomsen. the western side of our shrubby island. wilderness is the most implacable taker to civilization concluded the next day. Hundreds of them came from their nests of things – but I know this: find the The final 60-kilometre leg of the trip and enveloped the air around me to feed strength to endure and every sense will took us past the confluence of the on the insects in the cooling summer air. be heightened; persevere and every sec - Abitibi River and boiling Kwetabohigan Before long, the setting sun finally ond will move too fast; overcome and Rapids. The riverbanks continued to dipped below the horizon, and, one by the world will be full of uncommon stretch further from us on each side and one, the stars of the universe slowly re - beauty. Go outside and enjoy this the tidal effects of the river, with their vealed themselves overhead. We built bounty we have been blessed with, for elongated swells, became impossible to our mangled driftwood fire high on that the rivers, here, are still wild. ignore. On this last day, we paddled sandy, rocky shore, to ward off the chill I think about that day often, and again into headwinds, but this time of night. In that moment, I stood there wonder how many others have passed under clear blue skies, and by the time thinking about the glory that surrounded that might compare to it – the sun and the sun fell, the warming lights of us in contrast to the toil we had left be - clouds in the right place, the water, the Moosonee appeared in the distance. As hind. Above, the northern lights breeze, the moon suspended in the we paddled toward our final destination, emerged and began their ancient dance. dusk. But even with all those ingredi - we skirted the shore of Bushy Island After a decade of wilderness adven - ents it would be impossible to replicate and Tidewater Provincial Park, and ture, it was here, above this rocky shoal that feeling of completeness that I ex - there, atop the skeleton of a large dead in the land of the endless tangerine sky, perienced that evening, without the mo - tree, in the yellow light of evening, a that I learned about redemption. Things ments of treachery that came prior. golden eagle sat and watched us, as we will be taken from you – and the Our journey to Moosonee and back paddled into the sky.

8 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 Book Review: CanoeTrails and ShopTales: Making Crooked Nerves Straight by Hugh Stewart

other northern classics. Stewart’s memoirs capture a rich, Canoe Trails and Shop Tales is far multifaceted life. After studying liter - more nuanced than I ever expected. ature at Sussex in the UK, he returned Stewart, 73, eloquently weaves memo - to Canada to pursue a PhD in New ries of wilderness travel with unique, Brunswick. However, his fascination clearly articulated perspectives on related for canoes disrupted his studies. topics such as resource management and Stewart took to hanging around the First Nations in a compilation that’s rich headquarters of the venerable in intellectual grist. Reading Canoe Chestnut Canoe Company, learning Trails and Shop Tales compelled me to the tricks of building wood-canvas ca - start a gift-list of friends (canoe trippers) noes. Instead of a doctorate degree, and colleagues (outdoor educators) who Stewart left New Brunswick with sev - will appreciate Stewart’s outlook. eral classic Chestnut building forms, My favourite chapter is “The Little purchased when the company went Sticks,” an account of a 10-week, physi - out of business in 1979. These designs cally- and emotionally taxing transit of became the hallmarks of Headwaters the Barrenlands in 1980. Stewart insists Canoes, which continues to produce that to paddle a canoe is to become part traditional, expedition-ready canoes of the “historical continuum.” More than today. a simple travelogue, the story contrasts In a remarkably generous gesture, the author’s experience paddling from Stewart handed over the Headwaters Reindeer Lake in northern Saskatchewan canoe shop to his young protégés, Kate For a few years, my friend Hugh Stewart across the treeline and down the Kazan Prince and Jamie Bartle in 2016. The de - has been alluding to his “memoirs proj - and Ferguson rivers to Hudson Bay with cision freed up time to finally complete ect.” In our visits, I was lucky to pre - those of previous travellers, including his memoirs, and ultimately reflects view drafts of a few stories documenting Downes and J.B. Tyrrell of the Stewart’s desire to perpetuate the defin - his memories of a lifetime of canoe trip - Geological Survey of Canada. The same ing values of his life. “Some might ac - ping in the Canadian wilderness, serving examination of hardship and reward play cuse me of being on a crusade to pre - as a key figure in Ontario’s summer out more intimately in Stewart’s terse, serve the craft of building wooden ca - camp scene, and building wood-canvas in-the-moment journal entries from a noes and to promote the skills required canoes in his Wakefield, QC-based 1984 expedition on the Petit Mecatina to travel in them,” he writes in the book’s workshop. The glimpses were enough to River in Labrador and Quebec, reprinted powerful final chapter, entitled “Cultural get me excited about the prospect of a in another chapter. Custodians.” “That could be a valid full collection. Like so many others of his generation, charge, but as the years mount, I have Released in the fall of 2018, Canoe Stewart’s paddling career has been punc - come to see myself more as a custodian Trails and Shop Tales is the first contem - tuated with journeys on wild rivers like than a crusader.” porary title for Ottawa-based publisher Quebec’s Eastmain and Labrador’s Stewart likes to highlight how canoe McGahern Stewart. The label’s Churchill just before they were silenced tripping involves physical, intellectual Forgotten Northern Classics series also by hydroelectric projects. In doing so, and emotional stimulation – a theme that includes a reprint of American adven - Stewart realized the irony of idolizing re - runs through each chapter. There’s more turer P.G. Downes’ 1942 classic, source developers of the early days, such to the activity than just picking up a pad - Sleeping Island ; a two-volume collection as the GSC. “If alive today, our heroes dle. With this in mind, reading Canoe of Downes’ journals; arctic explorer would be hopping about in helicopters, Trails and Shop Tales is like sitting W.H.B. Hoare’s 1928-29 running seismic lines, and interpreting around the campfire with the author him - journal; the collected journals of Fenley remote sensing data,” he writes. “We are self, talking about journeys past and Hunter’s 1928 exploration of the South drawn to these travellers because they present – and dreaming of those yet to Nahanni River; and Hal Pink’s little- lived in times in stark contrast to our come. known biography of Bill Guppy, an early daily world…Success depended on inge - To order a copy contact McGahern Temagami woodsman. Stewart’s eclectic nuity, resourcefulness, and a high level Stewart Publishing at: mcspublishing@ mix of trip journals and essays about of wilderness travel skills, personal traits gmail.com. canoe-building, Canadian history and the worth emulating and expertise worth ac - — Conor Mihell environment fits right in alongside the quiring.”

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 9 CPM #40015547 Published by the Wilderness Canoe Association ISSN 1828-1327 Nastawgan is an Anishinabi word meaning “the way or route”

The WILDERNESS CANOE ASSOCIATION is a non- Nastawgan , to facilitate the exchange of information and profit organization made up of individuals interested in ideas of interest to wilderness travellers, organizes an ex - wilderness travel, mainly by canoe and kayak, but also in - tensive program of trips for members, runs a few basic cluding backpacking and winter trips on both skis and workshops, and is involved in environmental issues rele - snowshoes. The club publishes a quarterly journal, vant to wilderness canoeing.

WCA Board of Directors Activities The WCA board of directors meets 6 membership member to input up to 10 bership in suggestions for a new WCA times per year to steer the direction of additional valid family names, phone logo design that will capture simply and our organization. Our topics cover mem - numbers and email addresses. All these effectively what the WCA is. The bership, finance, events, marketing and email addresses will receive WCA com - plan is to use this one branding logo communications, Nastawgan , website, munications such as outing and general across all the WCA platforms. and more. Attendees include board mem - announcements. bers and committee members (see chart History of the WCA on page 24). WCA survey The WCA was formed in 1974 when a This year, I was elected as the Board On Oct 2, 2018 we put out a WCA on - small group of paddlers came together in Chair, after being on the board for the line membership survey to all members. Orillia to promote the interests of recre - last few years. Over that period we The results of this survey were reviewed ational canoeists, safe paddling, environ - gained a few new energetic, younger during our December 6, 2018 board mental protection, documentation of members and still retained our deep meeting. We have determined that some canoe routes, and the preservation of bench of more experienced members. We of the findings can be implemented in portage rights on private land. Unwritten have a strong team. I thought I’d share a the short term and others will need more was the club’s most important function, few of our achievements over the last long-term planning. We plan to summa - to create a community of canoeists inter - few months. rize the findings and present them at ested in wilderness travel. So that makes WCA AGM in the Spring ‘19. this year our 45th anniversary. 1. Streamlined online membership Some of the short-term improvements I floated the idea of creating the process. involve our outreach communication to “History of the WCA” document and re - Now everyone’s memberships expire retain and attract new members. This in - ceived some favorable responses. We’re on the same day, March 31, which saves volves social media sites like Facebook, asking you, the members, to submit your a ton of administrative effort for the club. YouTube, WCA Meetup group, WCA stories and photographs that capture your Members will no longer miss Nastawgan Business Cards, Mission statements, part of our WCA history. I envision the because they forgot to renew their mem - keeping the WCA website current and document will be put together into some bership in time. dynamic, CCR website cross promotion - kind of chronological order injected with 2. Implemented a single-step online just to name a few. these firsthand members’ stories recall - membership signup process. ing certain events. Our time frame to New members now proceed to regis - WCA Logo complete the first draft will be Dec 2019. tration and immediately pay their mem - One of the areas we’d like to make con - Contact us at [email protected] bership dues and do not have to wait on sistent is our WCA logo. We currently and tell us your WCA story. You, our club’s approval before completing the have different logos used on our WCA members, make this a great club to be process, as was the case before. This website, CCR website, Facebook, part of. Please share your stories. means more happy members, and more Youtube, WCA Meetup, Nastawgan club money to be spent on activities and journal, business cards, banners, mem - WCA Chair events and less WCA administration. bership forms, general WCA letterhead Gary Ataman 3. Implemented family membership with and communications. Based on the suc - [email protected] multiple emails. cess of the 2018 membership survey par - We added the ability for a family ticipation, we plan to engage the mem -

10 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 Wabakimi & Agawa Rock – A Pictograph Adventure Story and photos by Emmy Hendrickx and Peter Burkinshaw

Using WindPaddle sail with fully loaded canoe

During my preparations for the second dle on just one side and keep the canoe route, finding portages and campsites part of the Northwest Wilderness Quest straight, while I kept going in circles the making topographical maps (using for Ontario Parks, for a trip to Wabakimi first couple of days. I was totally http://atlas.gc.ca/toporama/en), planning Provincial Park, I realized some of the amazed when I carried a canoe all by daily menus and doing the food prepara - names of rivers and lakes sounded fa - myself over a dam, survived 3 days tion, plus organizing the camping and miliar to me, like Kopka River and alone on an island, built my own shelter, emergency equipment. Smoothrock Lake. I then realized I had and started my own campfire. Peter, my paddle partner was excited been in Wabakimi Provincial Park be - I have been on numerous shorter and to do this challenge; and while other fore; 23 years ago, in 1995, when I was longer trips and was always very fortu - people were interested it did not pan out fortunate enough to be chosen by nate to be with people with more experi - that any of them joined us. In the early Outward Bound to participate as part of ence to learn from and share with. And spring when Peter and I for the first time the Women of Courage program after now in 2018, I planned a trip! And really paddled together on the Humber River, some personal problems. I remember did it!!! There are a lot of details that go I quickly realized his lack of whitewater how in awe I was that summer, leaders into a successful and safe wilderness trip and canoeing skills. But as a speaker at and participants who were able to pad - up North, which include determining the the Wilderness Canoe Symposium said:

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 11 course. And although he brought only 8 small (half-page sized) maps for our 13- day trip covering over 175 kilometers and 30 portages, he knew exactly where camps or portages were. He remembered details after my topographical maps got a dunking in the water. He helped pack gear, making life so much easier when the barrels were packed the same way every day. And he lasted the whole trip, even though I had tried numerous times to get rid of him. His excitement and en - thusiasm made this trip an unforgettable experience. With the primary goal of the adven - ture to see pictographs, a visit to Agawa Rock on was part of the plan. Unfortunately my previous at - tempts to see them found the weather never cooperating; but this time wow, what an experience. Sunny, quiet waters and alone with no tourists, on a small ledge with the deep cold water within arm’s reach beside me, so I could sit next to the Misshepezhieu, or the Great Lynx, the spirit of the water. It is said Misshepezhieu could work for or against humans — he could calm the waters, or he could bring wind and storms over Agawa Rock with Misshepezhieu, the Great Lynx Superior by thrashing his tail. Having a few moments of peace provided me it is not the experience that is important, trip before this) by reading up, detailing, hope that the spirits would be with us on but rather the attitude? And Peter sure finding more campsites through the in - our adventure. did. He made up his lack of knowledge ternet, learning how to dehydrate food, The next day I decided that we of lengthy trips (had done a few 5-day and even taking a Wilderness First Aid should take the more scenic route of Black Sturgeon Lake Road, hoping to recognize anything from when I was there 23 years ago. And after an idyllic day at Agawa, we did not mind having a weather-dreary day of rain for driving. But that gave way to fun and excitement when we started going through orange puddles – I love the colour orange! While I drove, the road was three lanes wide and the reddish soil had us laugh - ing and splashing. Of course all good things come to an end, and so when Peter took over driving things changed; the soil turning black, puddles getting bigger, and the road much smaller. Finally when we were only about 30 km away from Armstrong, we found that the river next to the road had flooded the road. In scoping out the water level, I found that it was higher than the bot - tom of the car doors, so we then did a careful 7-point turnaround of the car Size of the thunderbird pictograph on Cliff Lake and had to drive all the way back to

12 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 Highway 17. However, seeing moose, do this; to be responsible keeping both an owl flying beside us, and the orange of us safe, to be confident, and to be - puddles was so worth the 3-hour delay. lieve in myself.] Thankfully, the spirits were with us; as unknowingly the gas station / hotel Day 3 (Emmy) – Was an interesting day check-in closed at 8pm, and we got with sunshine and rain storms. There there with just 10 minutes to spare! were dark clouds with very faint thun - After that we then met with the outfitter derstorms. I panicked a bit, even though Clem Quenville, and then finally made it was sunny above us with no clouds some last-minute preparations for the coming in, as a storm was moving away next day and turned in for a short, rest - from us to the southeast, so we went to less sleep. Bussey Island on Lonebreast Bay. (Side note… Bussey Island is named in mem - Day 1 (Peter) – While we were warned ory of Dewey Bussey and John Kelly to expect low levels of water every - containing big propane tanks, multiple where, thanks to all the rain in the last stoves, and even a fish table. There is couple of days, our first portage was also a plaque saying: “He fished it best. nowhere to be seen – no rocks, no lift- He knew it better. His stories will live over, no small swift, nothing! This day forever.”) Since it was still sunny, we was our first long day together of pad - kept going and Peter pointed to an out - GPS route Wabakimi trip, June 2018 dling, navigating and portaging. While let, thinking it was a 100 m possible I was sort of worried about spotting the paddle-through portage. This was a nice portages, and repeatedly being told how creek that meandered through a reedy, middle of a swamp with no place to get bad these portages could be; I was able swampy area, and gave us a tricky but out, took a bit of maneuvering to finally to pick out the only one we did do for good paddle, but we stopped once notic - turn our canoe around. We also decided the day quite easily. (Of course, having ing the current was going the wrong di - to switch spots, so using a few fallen the GPS helps, but using it with aware - rection. Making a U-turn however in the logs Peter and I switched positions. ness to the terrain is key.) After doing this portage, we experienced the worst weather for our entire trip while cross - ing Caribou Lake. We both found it dif - ficult dealing with high waves (some whitecaps) coming at us from one 45 degree direction, strong winds from the other 45 degree direction, and on-top of all that – rain. It got really scary when we ended having waves much higher than gunnels coming at us parallel to the canoe, since we did not understand each other, and we quickly re-oriented the canoe; after which I briefly yelling that I was paddling (note that Emmy’s pad - dling power is like 40% more than mine). After a short break, hiding be - hind one of the islands, we talked, and we had then to trust the other with role they had in paddling in high waves. I was not familiar with the amount of zigzag Emmy allowed in going towards a destination, so I had to just focus on going straight and not trying to assist in the steering. [Emmy – I also had to cor - rect him on his bearings once, and had to learn to accept his reading of the GPS, and guide us in the direction we had to go. What a personal growth mo - ment this was for the both of us in terms of both skills and emotions. Yes, I can Waiting for the storm to pass on McKinley River

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 13 Crossing the river to free our pinned canoe

Being in the bow felt just like driving a emergency blanket and we then sat tween. Emmy scouted out the later por - big bus, having to wait with the turning watching the rapid water going around tion, and believed that we could paddle until you get past the pivot point – I trees and rocks. the rapid, keeping to the right on the loved it! Eventually we did find the right hand turning creek to get past the right portage and it was not even a little Day 4 (Peter) – Our food was dehy - very large rock and two logs on the left- swift, just some easily-avoidable rocks drated and bagged into meal portions be - hand side. However, it did not quite and we then were on Laurent Lake, so forehand, so we just needed to boil work out as planned and we got pinned with the wind being good, up goes the water in the morning for tea, breakfast, against the logs and rock. Panic almost sail! It was a pleasure seeing how we and dinner. Dinner went in a big set in when Emmy bent over in her seat cruised with the water splashing up. Nalgene container, with hot water, soak - to get under one of the logs, as we were Considering how light and small it is, ing it and excess water drained, so it worried about either getting caught up the sail worked really well, and was could then be stuffed into a pot cozy and on the log or a gunnel catching the cur - worth the investment! A 65m portage back in the barrel. This method then rent – either one causing us to flip and was rocky to get out and VERY buggy, meant when we stopped for the night, get trapped there. (Note it is good to but I saw a most amazing pink orchid the meal was hydrated sufficiently, still have more than one set of maps, as lady slipper – wow!! Too bad I got warm, and ready to eat right away; with - water can sometimes get into water- eaten alive trying to take a picture of it. out any worries about the bugs or bad sealed pouches.) Once we both took a Another short portage, and by the time weather for us to try and cook with. On moment to breathe and calm down, we we got to the end with all our gear and leaving McKinley Lake, our portage was realized that while the current was canoe, it got dark real fast. A storm way shorter than the expected 285m. stronger than expected, it was not as bad broke loose, thunder and lightning less This was due to it being a two-part as we imagined. My suggestion of piv - than two seconds apart, so out came the portage with a very small lake in be - oting the canoe on the log’s edge and

14 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 finishing the rapid, found us either get - we then got to Whitewater Lake and manship and personal detailed care ting the canoe caught in rocks on the far made camp at the shore by Beckwith’s which went into its construction. [Emmy shoreline or the current preventing us cabins. Enjoying a fire after a day like – I was very impressed by the number of from getting enough leverage to turn the this, and seeing the beauty of the sunset, cabins that were there. Besides the main bow and accomplishing this. So after you simply say thank you to God before cabin where the tree had fallen on top taking another few moments to rest, falling asleep exhausted. and the snail, the most known one, there Emmy indicated our only option was for Side note… If you are not familiar were two additional smaller cabins; an someone to cross the river and then pull with Wendell Beckwith, he was a US outhouse and a large tool cabin/storage the canoe across. Being the “gentleman” born recluse who came to Canada in area. Wendell even built a wooden fence I said I would do it, which Emmy finds 1961 (living here illegally until he died), and tried growing vegetables that didn’t funny, since up until that point I had for his own personal scientific research. go due to the acidity of the soil. And yes, been very careful getting in and out of There are three cabins where he lived the carpentry was out of this world. the canoe, so as to not get my feet wet. year-round, but it is his smallest one Every corner was used, with storage Soloing back was a bit of challenge due called the “snail” which gets the most at - space, and the floors were made of hexa - to the current but found it easier than I tention. It is partially built into the sur - gon shaped wood pieces. There were imagined; and thru all this gained confi - rounding landscape, is curved which at - sinks with pipes, split double doors with dence that despite what may happen, we tests to his study of Pi (the 3.14159… intricate locks, and even with the deteri - will get through things. And just to number), and appeared in the December oration it was fabulous to see and ex - “prove” that God was watching out for 1976 issue of National Geographic . plore.] us, after drying out for a bit and getting Since his death in 1980, the site has been back on the water, we then saw an eagle! left as it was, slowly deteriorated but Day 7 (Emmy) – Halfway down White After several more (walking) portages, one can easily see the exquisite crafts - Clay Lake, we took a break for lunch on

Wendell Beckwith’s famous snail cabin

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 15 Efficient use of space inside the cabin a sunny rock, in an almost bug-free area. with two portages of 685 m and 785 m I was filled with a feeling of sereneness, When we landed, we saw approximately in length, with a tiny unnamed lake in exploring a place that has less people ten butterflies, sunning and mating on between. Those two portages and un - visit it yearly than Mount Everest. I felt a the warm rocks. During our trip we saw named lake though are really all part of little bit like Indiana Jones, having a this similar butterfly, a tiger swallowtail, a floating bog, which was a bit unnerv - sense of adventure and investigating, try - every day of our trip, so we felt it be - ing. Trying to figure out how to load the ing to distinguish and figure out if I was longed as part of our trip. Sometimes we canoe and get in, and then at the other actually seeing a pictograph or just imag - had to filter water while still in the edge in getting out, without any solid ining things – between the colours, canoe (which is a great way to do refills footing near the water’s edge was not marks (shapes), and/or lichen (nature). while avoiding the bugs.) easy but we did it. (My thought process All of this in anticipation of the thrill, to handling it was to treat it like ice.) that did occur, when I realized we found Day 9 (Peter) – Nothing says wilder - Despite the lack of firm footing, we a pictograph; something drawn a long ness more than having to mark your own marveled at the variety of orchids, time ago which has withstood the ele - path. Thankfully Emmy brought mark - pitcher plants and other vegetation. ments for many generations. Some were ing tape, which limited our frustration in easier to spot, being large with a strong having that day to deal with our double Day 11 (Peter) – A whole day to explore contrast to its background. We ended up carrying. We would take most of the Cliff Lake which is truly a special place; marking 18 different locations, some gear on the first trip, and then the re - where its remoteness, the awe of nature small and faint, which gave us a sense of maining gear and canoe on the second (some of the surrounding cliffs are over a pride. Seeing these pictographs gives me carry. While it was a “short” long day hundred feet high), and history (pic - a connection to the past and allows me to only having to go from South Annette tographs) all come together to highlight witness that spirituality and history im - Lake to Butland Lake, we had to deal what I like about wilderness trips. Today pacts the world. [Emmy – One of the

16 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 most amazing pictograph collections we saw was in the southwest corner of Cliff Lake. Here within a three-foot diameter are multiple pictographs, obviously done at different time periods. It must be a very sacred site to the natives to come back here over the years. In orange is a circle, with floating legs, and other marks around it that are very abstract. Underneath, in purple is a man drawn in detail, with even fingers on the hands. To the right of these is a double cross painted on top of a faded canoe. It really is quite fascinating to see this in person.] Funny side story… That evening while fishing, I hooked the same fish twice, the first time it broke the line and got away, but the next time I reeled it in. How did I know it was the exact same fish? When we cut it open to cook for supper, we found my first lure in its belly! (God does have a sense of humour!)

Days 12 & 13 (Emmy) – Portages from Cliff Lake to Wash Lake and the next day with Pikitigushi River to our take out were our longest days and most strenu - Daily sightings of Tiger Swallowtails ous portages; but teamwork works!!! The most worrisome and scariest portage was the Bad Medicine Portage (600m) which involved a steep cliff. The first part wasn’t that bad until we hit a steep incline, so we left our gear there and got the rest of our stuff and the canoe. Getting the canoe up that incline needed the use of a pulley system. The cliff edge wasn’t as scary – the roaring river with the falls and the rapids down below in the gorge was further away from the path than I had expected but amazing to see and hear. After the steep incline, the trail descended with rocks and a small ledge, extremely closer to the river – and then finally a portion straight down to the water’s edge – yes those were scary. However with great team work, lowering the canoe with a rope bit by bit, and the last part of lowering the gear with ropes into the canoe, allowed us to get thru this portage. I am grateful for Peter’s encour - agement and what he lacked in canoe skills, he for sure made up in strength, and footage on the portages. The last portage P29 (being 1500 meters, yes 1.5 km) was really the most challenging of them all. After getting thru most of it, we then had to bushwhack our way to the Tagging the trail on floating bogs

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 17 Lowering gear 7 feet on Bad Medicine portage

18 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 Crossing another river during last portage

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 19 end; with us both pulling the canoe while hopping a bog, and also dealing with walking on rocks while crossing a river. We ran out of water to drink and even though we had filtered some, in the scouring heat it was not enough. We were really pushed to our limits here, but Peter kept encouraging me, and was a real lifesaver here. Once back on Pikitigushi Lake, we sat in the shelter of a rock on the other side of the lake, away from the bugs, filtered water, and finally had our lunch before enjoying the last peaceful paddle in the meandering river to our takeout. What a perfect ending of our trip, as even though we had options to get out earlier and avoid this last beast of a portage, it made our trip complete giving us an extremely deep and true sense of accomplishment.

This following poem is from S.F. Olson, and was read to me on my Outward Bound Trip, and now 23 years later I read this same poem to Peter at the start of our trip to Wabakimi, having adapted it a bit to be more personal:

Sacred site on Cliff lake, the highlight of our trip In a canoe, the battle is mine and mine alone, It is my muscle and sinew my wit and courage Against the primitive forces of the storm That is why when after a day of battle my tent pitched at last in the lee of some sheltering cliff the canoe up, safe and dry and supper under way There is an exaltation That only CANOE (WO)MEN know

We also want to extend a very big thank you and give a shout out to our outfitter for this adventure, Clem Quenville (wabakimiclem@hotmail. com), who not only provided us with a canoe and shuttles, but also gave won - derfully freshly made battered fish once we were back in town. A special thank you to Bob Henderson who was kind enough to meet with us and share stories, maps and books with us regarding our trip and specifically Cliff Lake and some of his knowledge regarding the pictographs. Thank you bugs for this Old Babushka face

20 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 The Hood River Hypothesis Story by Carly Rivard Photography by Joel Koop, Erik Rust and Leah Reid A hypothesis is an educated guess, a pre - scheduling dilemma” and my hypothesis Therefore, I signed up for Arctic Course diction or a proposed explanation for a was falsified. As a result, I found myself during the last semester of my degree. I phenomenon. On September 3, 2014, I taking delight in classes ranging from was off on yet another journey. made the first hypothesis for my under - Improvisational Drama to Outdoor Arctic course is a two-part university graduate degree. I was three days into Education where I studied personal nar - course which involves planning a canoe my first year of university and prema - ratives of the Canadian North combined expedition during the winter term and turely stressed. I entered the main build - with a February dogsled expedition in then embarking on the journey in sum - ing of the university carrying a side the . However, even mer. Thus, as the winds whipped and the satchel bag filled with more textbooks after I had fulfilled my “experiential snow flew across the Alberta prairies than a public library, my left shoe was learning credits,” I continued taking during the winter of 2018, I and my only halfway onto my foot and my stom - Outdoor Education courses. My heart no classmates busied ourselves dehydrating ach was growling like a rabid dog. I was longer belonged to mitochondria alone; food, preparing gear, and choosing a on my way to see the Outdoor Education Outdoor Education had bitten right into river. On June 22nd 2018, I joined my professor in an attempt to solve a my Liberal Arts and Sciences butt. nine peers and professors Morten Asfeldt “MAJOR scheduling dilemma.” I was eager to take an introductory canoeing course. However, there was time conflict with my biology lab. The professor found me in my dishevelled state at the base of the staircase leading to his up - stairs office and the two of us engaged in a brief conversation. After I finished bab - bling about my predicament, he calmly explained to me that the choice was es - sentially mine and my decision of whether or not to stay enrolled really de - pended on how well I could manage my time. “How well I could manage my time”... how dare he be so reasonable. After our conversation ended, the profes - sor left me at the base of the staircase where I made this inaugural hypothesis. In light of our conversation I predicted I would not participate in any Outdoor Education courses that semester … or ever. In the fall of 2014 I started my biol - ogy degree at the University of Alberta, Augustana Campus and as a bright-eyed 19-year old, the only thing that turned my crank more than mitochondria was natural selection itself. However, it did not take me long to realize that the most valuable aspects of my degree were not going to be hiding between the pages of my organic chemistry textbook. Augustana has a Liberal Arts and Sciences faculty. In part, this means that I was required to take classes that are be - yond the traditional boundaries of my major. So, as you may have guessed, I did eventually figure out my “MAJOR Unloading the plane at Cave Lake.

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 21 Mackenzie Grove (right) and Carly Rivard (left) sharing a belly laugh during the takeoff.

and Les Parsons on a 21-day canoe ex - made me feel comfortable or cozy, yet what the scientific method was made pedition on the Hood River, . On there was a sense of peace that came for; when faced with a problem you this day – June 22 – our plans finally with my excitement and nervousness be - should generate a hypothesis, run an ex - came into action as the twelve of us set cause these two feelings were familiar periment, collect data, and hope you out from Camrose, drove to Yellowknife, and signaled adventure – feelings I had come to a conclusion. So that’s just and then hopped on a pair of bush planes come to know and love. what I did. And now, I invite you to which took us to Cave Lake, approxi - As I stood on the shores of Cave ponder these questions with me as I fol - mately 240 km from where the river Lake with those blended feelings of ex - low the scientific method, in an attempt opens into the . citement and nervousness, I asked my - to understand what led me to the Hood I wish I could tell you that going to self: What keeps me seeking adventure? River for the last adventure of my un - the headwaters of the Hood River felt What draws me to unfamiliar places? dergraduate degree. like going home, but it did not. I come Why do I continue to leave the comforts from a land of combines and poplar of home? As I sat down to write this Hypothesis #1: I went to the Hood trees, and therefore arriving on this ice- piece, these questions resurfaced. The River because I was looking for JOY: choked lake in the barrens felt more science student in me was screaming No soul that seriously and constantly strange than it did familiar. This is not to out for a clear and concise answer, a desires joy will ever miss it… say that landing on these remote waters stand-alone reason I could pull out of a – C.S. Lewis did not feel good. In fact, the unfamiliar - hat and identify as my motivation. I was ity of Cave Lake made our arrival feel not interested in ambiguity. Much to my Joy – also described as happiness, great; it was new and exciting, a place to dismay, a simple solution has not re - bliss, cheer, and in some cases... non - be explored, a place filled with un - vealed itself. Thankfully, my liberal arts sense. Call it what you want; to be knowns. It was exactly what I was look - and sciences degree had taught me that human means you have felt this feeling ing for. The landscape may not have seemingly unsolvable questions are at one time or another. Initially, I pro -

22 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 standing on the banks of the Hood River.

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 23 A midnight hiking adventure near Kingamutt Falls. posed that I chase after adventure be - the unpredictability of wilderness travel am that on the Hood River we were cause I am drawn to the elation that is makes me giggle and the simplicity of welcomed to embrace these feelings of evoked within me when I step off the expedition life makes me feel at ease. I elation, to laugh from our bellies and beaten path: the sun makes me smile, cannot begin to explain how thankful I sing at the top of our lungs. It was so refreshing to simply have fun. We live in a world which values maturity and professionalism, particularly in univer - sity settings. There is nothing wrong with this. In fact, in many circum - stances it is good and necessary. However, on this expedition, I was re - minded that we can all benefit from reacquainting ourselves with the child - like joy of expedition life. For those who have forgotten, let me remind you what this sort of joy looks like and how it feels. Childlike joy was in the smiles we exchanged with one an - other, the kind that makes your cheeks hurt, as we blasted into flight and peered out the windows of the Twin Otter. It was in the wonder we felt while watching the wind blow through the hair of a muskox herd that stood high on a river bank watching us float by. It was in the uncon - Sailing into community.

24 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 Happy hikers with heavy loads. trollable laughter that escaped beneath is a feeling meant to be reserved for this joy in the form of stories, photos, the bug-tent walls each night as we re - weekends, evenings, and vacations and friendships, which we are free to layed stories of trips gone by. It was only. It seems that Karl Marx was cor - share wherever we go. found in the tickle of the mist which rect in saying that “[work] estranges However, if it was joy alone that I sprayed our faces at Kingaunmiut Falls from man his own body ... and his spir - was seeking, I don’t think I would have and was released with the mischievous - itual aspect, his human aspect.” chosen this Outdoor Education course. ness of a midnight hiking adventure. However, on the Hood River, I began to On Sunday evenings I frequently stream Childlike joy made our hearts feel light question why this was the case. If it tears of laughter while watching as we danced spontaneously along the was joy that put wind in our sails on America’s Funniest Home Videos, and river’s edge and lifted our voices in song Portage Bay, could it not do the same all I have to do is turn on the TV to and while sailing into Bathurst Inlet on for us in Camrose, Alberta? As Shea, a evoke such emotion. I knew there had to Portage Bay. member of our group explained, com - be something more which is why I began Joy is also the reason I have always ing home does not mean the adventure to wonder if I was simply looking for an struggled with returning from adven - has to end. Even though our bug jack - opportunity to be challenged. tures. When I was 13 I went to Disney- ets have been carefully tucked away, world and had the time of my life and this is no reason for us to stop laughing. Hypothesis #2: I went to the Hood then cried for a week when I came Smiles do not have to fade with the River because I was looking to be home. I think part of my struggle stains of our soiled laundry. Instead, we CHALLENGED : comes from the fact that we live in a can delight in the fact that each of us What is joy without sorrow? What is disillusioned world, which suggests joy returned safely home and now carry success without failure? What is a win

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 25 Professor Morten Asfeldt helping pull students out of the water and onto the ice.

without a loss? What is health without You may be wondering how we came (we are university students after all)? I’m illness? You have to experience each if to consensus on the Hood River as our not sure if we were driven by courage or you are to appreciate the other… expedition route. Why not choose a river youthful adventurousness, but something ― Mark Twain that is more accessible, safer, or cheaper seemed to be calling us to head beyond the . Even well-known rivers such as the Nahanni just seemed a little too close to home or perhaps a little too common. Because none of us stu - dents had ever paddled a northern river, we were looking for a river that had it all: lakes, rapids, portages, wildlife, ocean paddling, history, and an opportu - nity to meet local people. We wanted to explore beyond stereotypical northern clichés which incorrectly suggest that the North is a place teeming with wildlife, void of people, and permanently covered in snow. Thankfully, the Hood River did not disappoint. With lengthy sections of ocean paddling, heart-pumping white water, ice-choked lakes, endless hum - mocks and enough mosquitoes to make even the most conscious environmental - ist consider slapping on a little deet, our experience was indeed full, rich, raw – a source of joy and challenge. Portaging around Caribou Crossing Rapids.

26 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 Arctic Lupin flowers near the Arctic Ocean.

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 27 Eric Rust looking out over Portage Bay from atop a mountain near Bathurst Inlet community.

Our decision to paddle the Hood google earth, only to learn that there was nine and 15 km daily. River was marked by a unique trial, a 12 no path that appeared clearly better than We trudged over hummocks and km portage from Wilberforce Falls to another. Therefore, once we arrived at through thick dwarf birch with our backs Portage Bay on the Arctic Ocean. We Wilberforce Falls, half the group made a bent and legs aching for what seemed began our move across land above 6-hour scouting sortie for a portage route like an eternity at times and a fleeting Wilberforce Falls on the right side of the beginning on river right above moment at others. Alas, on the third river. The portage from the Hood River Wilberforce. Based on what that group night of our portage we camped on a to Portage Bay is unusual. Most Hood could see, the unknowns of other routes, height of land where we could finally see River paddlers paddle to the mouth of and knowing there was no turning back the Arctic Ocean. Three kilometres and the river at Arctic Sound where they once we were below Wilberforce Falls, 24 hours later, we put down our last meet a floatplane that takes them back to we decided to portage east from above loads and stared out across the waters of Yellowknife. In preparation for our expe - Wilberforce Falls to Portage Bay. Portage Bay. After having seen nothing dition, we tried to talk to someone who We will likely never know if we more than a small stream or two in the had actually completed this portage. We chose the best. Although, we also knew last 72 hours, we welcomed the smell of only managed to talk to one person who that no 12 km portage would be easy. At salt water with high fives, hugs, and began the portage below Wilberforce some point we just needed to pick up the smiles. However, beneath the joy was a Falls and didn’t recommend that route. first load and begin walking. So that’s hidden twinge of sadness as we all knew Aside from that, a pilot friend suggested just what we did. We picked up our gear that the sight of the ocean meant our a route from Ragged Rock Falls south - and walked for four days, which allowed days together were numbered. In less east to Portage Bay because of better us to split up the task into approximately than a week, our adventure would come walking, but they had only seen the equal three-kilometre sections. However, to an end, and our current physical chal - portage from the air and never actually with 28 loads of gear, each person car - lenges would give way to emotional walked it. In the end, we searched maps, ried either two or three loads each day, ones. Because many of the students on journals, and examined the route using resulting in each of us walking between this expedition were either recent gradu -

28 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 ates or students heading into the final Mexico, or better yet a trip to Disney challenges was a privilege because the year of their degrees, the end of our three World. So, if not joy or challenge, then experience of seeking shelter, food, and weeks on the river marked more than just what could it be? What was I seeking? water are not trials we face every day as the conclusion of our expedition but also As a third proposition, I began to ques - many people in the world do. the parting of ways with people we had tion if I was drawn to the life lessons that Furthermore, if we were unable to meet become close friends with over the seem to manifest themselves by way of the challenges of the expedition, we have course of the last four years. wilderness travel. a huge safety net to fall into back at Bandaids help blisters, Advil helps home. As we paddled into the wind, backaches, and Tide supposedly removes Hypothesis #3: I went to the Hood braved the whitewater and trudged along stains, but there is no easy cure for sepa - River because I was looking for with heavy loads, we used these words to ration between friends. Just as I ex - INSIGHT: remind ourselves that we had chosen this pected, returning home and beginning Life’s biggest tragedy is that we get old hummocky path and winding river. Our life apart from one another often feels too soon and wise too late expedition was an opportunity for joy, heavy, much like carrying a canoe. In an - Benjamin Franklin challenge, and insight; it was an experi - attempt to patch the wounds of distance, ence we will carry with us for a lifetime I returned to my journal to see if I could I have found that expeditions are and a source of many stories. However, relive what once was. As I read through often full of rich teachings that come our life did not depend on the success or my entries I began to recall more than through both the land and its people. failure of this expedition. We would not just memories – I was also reminded of Whether we realize it or not, each person go hungry or without shelter for winter if the way I felt as I neared the end of my is a source of wisdom. While on the we didn’t see caribou or catch fish or degree. I was not seeking a challenge, I river, we shared our insights through make our way back to the meat caches was in need of a break, some time off, a daily group journal readings and morn - on the shores of Portage Bay after a sum - little R ‘n R. My four years of school ing thoughts for the day – both mer on the tundra. were awesome and inspiring. However, Augustana expedition traditions. For ex - There are of course many challenges they were also filled with plenty of tribu - ample, early on in our expedition, Les in our lives that we do not choose. There lation. Regardless of how I was feeling shared a thought for the day that became are trials that await our group members during the final semester, for some rea - a theme for our group. He suggested to back home – troubled communities, bro - son I did not book a cheap flight to us that the opportunity to create our own ken families, and lost loved ones. What

Campsite on the Tundra.

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 29 the blissful sight of the Arctic Ocean this particular expedition, at least not in which – in our case – marked the accom - the way I expected. Instead, our time on plishment of a goal. Our Hood River ad - the river acted as a corridor connecting venture made it clear that we can learn me and my classmates to people of the through experience. However, as a uni - past and those who currently inhabit the versity student, I am also well aware that North. As one of our assignments, each there are a variety of ways to acquire student was asked to come prepared to knowledge. If experience was the only tell a story connected to our northern ex - road to wisdom, then all the hours I spent perience. A few times each week we in the library reading books or convers - would gather in the bug tent and listen to ing with peers and professors would stories of starvation, nationalism, brav - have been a waste of time. Therefore, I ery, triumph, and defeat. Students spoke began to question if there was still some - about explorers such as , thing I was missing. So, if not joy, chal - Samuel Hearne, and of course Robert lenge or insight, perhaps I was drawn to Hood, the Hood River’s namesake. the Hood River seeking human connec - Others, including myself, told stories of tions. the delicate relationship between Europeans and Inuit people during the Hypothesis #4: I went to the Hood early days of exploration. Unfortunately, Leah Reid (right) and Les Parsons (left) River because I was looking for these were often tragic stories resulting pulling their canoe across the ice. HUMAN CONNECTION: from communication barriers, greed and It’s always wonderful to see how misunderstandings between people char - did our experience tell us about our beautiful other people’s hearts can be. acterised by different languages, tradi - everyday urban lives? To echo the words - Gift Gugu Mona tions and histories. Although we studied of Eric, one of our group members, accounts from the early 1800’s and through this expedition we learned that Even with the best camouflage, it’s 1900’s, these stories are in many ways we can “soldier on.” Even when you’ve awfully difficult to hide in the woods, es - similar to those which mark headlines got 90 lbs on your back, the sun is blis - pecially on the tundra. I have always ap - today. Perhaps it is time we begin writ - tering your skin, and the air is thick with preciated how when immersed in the nat - ing a different tale, one full of joy, chal - bugs, it is still possible to push through. ural world and expedition life, people lenge, insight and human connection? Our experience taught us that if you con - can’t hide; we are vulnerable together In addition to our stories, we also had tinue to walk, one step at a time, you’ll and individually. I have found that this the privilege of meeting local people. likely be thankful you did because as at sort of vulnerability provides an oppor - After finishing our portage, we spent two the end of every gruelling climb there tunity to make new friends, and get to days paddling 55 km south to the com - lies a great reward; the satisfaction of a know old companions in a different light. munity of Bathurst Inlet. This commu - job well done, a sense of community, and However, this is not what struck me on nity was originally a site for mineral ex - ploration and later became a Hudson’s Bay trading post. Today, the original trading post serves as a lodge which is used to accommodate guests who come to explore the mountainous landscape and learn about the history, geography and geology of the region. The lodge is currently co-owned by the Warner fam - ily and the Kapolaks, an Inuit family na - tive to Bathurst Inlet. During our time at Bathurst, we also had the privilege of meeting Page Burt, a biologist who has worked there each summer since 1973. After years of formal education and countless hours spent exploring the land with local people, Page has acquired a wealth of knowledge which perfectly complements her heart of gold. Along with the Kapolaks, she shared with us traditional knowledge in the form of in - terpretive hikes and an Inuit clothing Bathurst Inlet Lodge. fashion show.

30 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 ciliation might look like. It was a time filled with peace, as people from two cultures sat in a quaint living room shar - ing traditions and stories with one an - other. It was knowledge of flora, fauna, caribou hides and meat stores being passed on by Page during an afternoon hike. It was a welcoming smile and a firm handshake between strangers meet - ing one another and a hug between friends when we parted ways. Much like the rest of our Hood River adventure, it was full, rich, raw – a source of joy, chal - lenge, insight and human connection.

After generating these four hypotheses and looking at the data, now I must draw a conclusion. What did I learn from my self-reflective research? Is it joy, chal - lenge, insight or human connection that keeps me seeking adventure? At their very Group photo at Wilberforce Falls. core, these four elements, at least in part, characterise people’s daily existence. I The word reconciliation is one that by no means an expert on the subject, al - think what sets an experience like our can be found everywhere from newspa - though our time spent with the Kapolaks Hood River expedition apart from regular per headlines to school assemblies. I am gave me a glimpse of what I think recon - life is that it ties all of these elements to - gether, and in turn leaves an individual feeling whole. This wholeness is unique, what made my Hood River experience so life-giving, and what will always keep me coming back to the wild. For me, wilder - ness travel is a little snapshot of how life was meant to be lived. This sense of com - pletion is hard to describe, but more easily felt. However, I think the words of Katie Mitzel begin to touch on the wholeness we experienced during those three weeks. She says that, “There are certain places that capture our hearts and minds. They leave us open to deep emotions we have somehow lost touch with – emotions of pure bliss, emphatic joy and fulfillment in the natural world.” Each of us 12 travel - ers now carries this experience as part of our lives. These memories are now for - ever a part of our story, and the wilderness will always be there waiting for us to re - turn – we hope.

Carly Rivard is a recent university gradu - ate and an aspiring veterinarian from Wizard Lake, Alberta. Aside from pad - dling and writing, she loves downhill ski - ing, running, backpacking and relaxing with her family at the lake. This expedition was Carly’s second trip to the Arctic and she is looking forward to returning to this Carly Rivard special place.

NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018 31 …in this issue 1 Where the Rivers are Wild: 11 Wabakimi & Agawa Rock – A Journey Down the Lower A Pictograph Adventure Missinaibi and Moose Rivers 21 The Hood River Hypothesis 9 Book Review: Canoe Trails and Shop Tails: Making Crooked Straight

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32 NASTAWGAN WINTER 2018