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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 532 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Paul Harding Thanks to Hannah and Layla for accompanying Many thanks to the travellers who used the me to Goa and putting up with my absence last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, while in Kerala. Cheers to Joe for entrusting me useful advice and interesting anecdotes: with such a great part of India. In India, thanks Anna Goetzke, Beatriz Castier, Bill Jenkins, to all who offered advice and company but es- Charlot Morgan, Coen van Hasselt, Gregory pecially to all the friends in Goa and Kerala that Buie, James Bayne, Joel Travelstead, Jérôme I met up with again – you all know who you are! Leveque, Petra O’Neill, Rosanne Onrust Trent Holden Thanks first up to Joe Bindloss for giving me AUTHOR THANKS the opportunity to work again on India – a seriously dream gig. As well as to my co-au- John Noble thors, especially Sarina for all the help and tips Thanks to everybody in South India who an- along the way. A shout out to all the good folk I swered my questions, pointed me in the right met along the road and shared a beer with. But direction and helped with the logistics of a as always my biggest thanks goes to my beau- fabulous trip, especially Jonty Rajagopalan and tiful girlfriend Kate, and my family and friends Ashish and Rucha Gupta. Thanks also to Abigail who I all miss back home in Melbourne. Blasi, whose work I drew on extensively for the front- and back-end chapters, DE Joe Bindloss, Isabella Noble and all the rest of the fantastic India team, Cheers to everyone who helped out in Tamil especially Isabella Noble with whom it was Nadu, Ashish and Rucha Gupta for endless wonderful to share so much of this project. hospitality, Bernard Dragon and Rom Whitak- er, and Junaid Sait for saving the day when I Abigail Blasi forgot to book Ooty accommodation. Special Thank you Joe Bindloss and Sarina Singh, CE thanks to fellow authors Abi and Sarina for and CA supreme, and to my wonderful co-au- girl support, and to Andrew for Pondy fun thors. Thanks in Delhi to Sarah Fotheringham, and keeping me sane in Trichy. At home, huge to Nicolas Thompson and Danish Abbas, to thanks to Jacky and Paps for the laughs and Dilliwala Mayank Austen Soofi, to Rajinder and advice. Mostly, to Susan Forsyth, for being Surinder Budhraja, to Nirinjan and Jyoti Desai, there always. my Delhi family, and to Luca for holding the fort. 533 Iain Stewart ACKNOWLEDGMENTS It was great to hang with Laksh in Bandra and have a virtual beer with Paul Harding by Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, the sea. Thanks to the good folk at the MTDC Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- all over the state, particularly Mr Shaker and ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Mrs Singh in Mumbai. I’m also very grateful Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System to Aditya in Nagpur and Tadoba, Maria in Ma- Sciences, 11, 163344. BEHIND THE SCENES theran and the merry musicians of Kolhapur. Illustration pp190-1 by Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Marigold flowers, Andhra Pradesh/Tim Gainey/Alamy. This guidebook was Assisting Editors Nigel THIS BOOK produced by the following: Chin, Samantha Forge, Paul This 8th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Kate Planet’s South India & Joe Bindloss James, Elizabeth Jones, Katie Kerala guidebook was O’Connell, Lauren O’Connell, Product Editors Kate researched and written by Charlotte Orr, Kathryn Rowan, Mathews, Alison Ridgway John Noble, Abigail Blasi, Tracy Whitmey Book Designer Paul Harding, Trent Holden, Cover Researcher Jessica Rose Isabella Noble and Iain Naomi Parker Stewart. Thanks to Lonely Planet Cartography, Ellie Simpson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 534 Index A animals 154, 483-5 Thiruvananthapuram 265 Marari 286-7 accommodation 494-6, see Anjuna 139-43, 140 Wayanad Wildlife Mobor 156 also individual locations Araku Valley 251 Sanctuary 318 Morjim 146-7 activities, see individual Arambol (Harmal) 148-9 Mumbai 53 activities, individual architecture 11, 480-2 Neil Island 421 locations B area codes 504 backwaters (Kerala) 9, 258-9, Palolem 157-61 Agonda 156-7, 9 art galleries, see museums 8-9, 254, 258, 259 Polem Beach 157 Aihole 222 & galleries Badami 220-2 Port Blair 414 air travel arts 260-1, 476-9, see Badshahi Ashurkhana 231 Ross Island 425 airlines 507-8 also individual arts Baga 135-9, 136 Sinquerim 133-5 airports 15, 508 ashrams 31 Bandipur National Park Smith Island 425 to/from South India 507-8 Anandwan 102 197-8 Talpona 157 within South India 508-9 Matha Amrithanandamayi bargaining 470 Vagator 143-6, 144, 17 Ajanta 96-9, 167 Mission 281 bathrooms 504, 505 Varkala 257, 274-9, 276, Isha Yoga Center 397 Ajanta caves 10, 96-7, 167, beaches 16 256 , , Osho International 97 10 167 Agonda 156-7 Visakhapatnam 248-9 Alappuzha (Alleppey) Meditation Resort 111 Alappuzha 282 bears 219 282-6, 284 Sevagram Ashram 100-1 Anjuna 139-43, Bekal 322 altitude sickness 520-1 Sivagiri Mutt 275 140 Arambol (Harmal) 148-9 Belur 203-4 Amaravathi 247 Sivananda Yoga Aswem 146-7 Benaulim 153-6 amoebic dysentery 519 Vedanta Dhanwantari Ashram 270 Baga 135-9, Bengaluru (Bangalore) 39, Amte, Murlidhar Devidas 136 172-85, 174-5 ‘Baba’ 102 Sri Anatha Niketan 275 Benaulim 153-6 accommodation 170, Anamalai Tiger Reserve 398 Sri Aurobindo Calangute 135-9, 136 Ashram 359 178-9 ancient sites 162-9 Candolim 133-5 Sri Seshadri Swamigal activities 177 Andaman Islands 40, 408-26, Chapora 143-6, 144 Ashram 357 climate 170 409 Chennai 331 Surfing Ashram 209 drinking & nightlife accommodation 408, 410 Cherai Beach 312 Aswem 146-7 181-2 climate 408, 410 Cola Beach 156 ATMs 500 entertainment 182 environment 410 Colva 153-6 Aurangabad 88-92, food 170, 179-81 food 408 90 Galgibag 157 Auroville 366-7 medical services 183 geography 410 Ganpatipule 104 autorickshaws 511 shopping 182-3 highlights 408 Gokarna 209-10 Avis Island 424 sights 173-7 history 410 Havelock Island 417 ayurveda 28-9, 278 tourist information 184 permits 411 Kannur 257, 320-1 Alappuzha 282 tours 177-8 safety 410 Kappil Beach 322 Bengaluru 177 travel seasons 170 travel to/from 411 Kashid Beach 104 Kerala 274 travel to/from 184 travel within 411-12 Kattoor 286-7 Kochi 302 travel within 184-5 Andamanese people 423 Kerala 256-7, 256-7 Kollam (Quilon) 279 Betul 156 Andhra Pradesh 39, 226, Kovalam 257, 270, 257 Kovalam 270 Bhaja 108-9 245-53, 227 Little Andaman 426 Madikeri 200, 201 Bhandardara 87-8 Anegundi 218-19 Long Island 423 Mamallapuram 349 bhang lassi 502 Malvan 105 Mysuru 192 Bheemunipatnam 251 Mamallapuram 348 Periyar Wildlife Bhongir 244 Map Pages 000 Sanctuary 291 Mandrem 147-8 Bibi-qa-Maqbara 88-9 Photo Pages 000 Puducherry 361 Mangaluru 205 bicycle travel, see cycling 535 Bidar 225 buffalo racing 210 Chettinadu 378-80 Puducherry 360-1 Bidar Fort 169, 225, 168 bus travel 493, 509-10, 511 Chhatrapati Shivaji Coonoor 397-9 Bijapur (Vijapura) business hours 15, 501 Maharaj Vastu costs 222-5, 223 Bylakuppe 202 Sangrahalaya 50-1 accommodation birds 485, 486 Chhatrapati Shivaji 494, 495 Terminus 47, 50 birdwatching car travel 511 C Chidambaram 367-8 INDEX Backwoods Camp 135 food 497 Calangute 135-9, 136 children, travel with 35-7 Bandipur National Park train travel 515 Candolim 133-5 197-8 Chinnar Wildlife Cotigao Wildlife canoeing 101, 289, see also Sanctuary 297 Hampi 215 Sanctuary 157-8 B- kayaking, rafting Chiriya Tapu 416-17 Havelock Island 418 courses, see also cooking D car travel 510-11 Chola empire 434-5 Kumarakom Bird courses, language carbon-monoxide Sanctuary 289 choli 447 courses, yoga courses poisoning 521 Mumbai 60 Chowmahalla Palace 229 dance 61 Carnival 19 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Christianity 438, 458 martial arts 265 carpets 469-70 Reserve 101 churches & cathedrals music 61, 192 caste system 447-8, 449 Thattekkad Bird Basilica of Bom textile painting 333 Sanctuary 297-8 cathedrals, see churches & Jesus 129 Craggy Island 425 cathedrals Vedanthangal Bird Church of Our Lady credit cards 490, 500 Cavelossim 156 Sanctuary 352 of the Immaculate cricket 450-1 caves Conception 122 boat travel, see also crocodiles 346, 398 houseboats Ajanta 10, 96-8, 167, , Church of Our Lady of 97 culture 428-30, 446-51 local transport 511 10, 167 the Mount 130 currency 14, 499-500 to/from South India 508 Aurangabad Caves 89 Church of St Cajetan 130 customs regulations 496 tours 18 Baratang 422 Church of St Francis of Assisi 130 cycle-rickshaws 511 within South India 509 Bhaja 108 Lourdes Church 376 cycling 509 boat trips Borra Caves 251 Notre Dame des Kochi 303 Candolim 133 Cave Temples Anges 362 Kodaikanal
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