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OUR READERS Paul Harding Thanks to Hannah and Layla for accompanying Many thanks to the travellers who used the me to and putting up with my absence last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, while in . Cheers to Joe for entrusting me useful advice and interesting anecdotes: with such a great part of . In India, thanks Anna Goetzke, Beatriz Castier, Bill Jenkins, to all who offered advice and company but es- Charlot Morgan, Coen van Hasselt, Gregory pecially to all the friends in Goa and Kerala that Buie, James Bayne, Joel Travelstead, Jérôme I met up with again – you all know who you are! Leveque, Petra O’Neill, Rosanne Onrust Trent Holden Thanks first up to Joe Bindloss for giving me AUTHOR THANKS the opportunity to work again on India – a seriously dream gig. As well as to my co-au- John Noble thors, especially Sarina for all the help and tips Thanks to everybody in who an- along the way. A shout out to all the good folk I swered my questions, pointed me in the right met along the road and shared a beer with. But direction and helped with the logistics of a as always my biggest thanks goes to my beau- fabulous trip, especially Jonty Rajagopalan and tiful girlfriend Kate, and my family and friends Ashish and Rucha Gupta. Thanks also to Abigail who I all miss back home in Melbourne. Blasi, whose work I drew on extensively for the front- and back-end chapters, DE Joe Bindloss, Isabella Noble and all the rest of the fantastic India team, Cheers to everyone who helped out in Tamil especially Isabella Noble with whom it was Nadu, Ashish and Rucha Gupta for endless wonderful to share so much of this project. hospitality, Bernard Dragon and Rom Whitak- er, and Junaid Sait for saving the day when I Abigail Blasi forgot to book Ooty accommodation. Special Thank you Joe Bindloss and Sarina Singh, CE thanks to fellow authors Abi and Sarina for and CA supreme, and to my wonderful co-au- girl support, and to Andrew for Pondy fun thors. Thanks in to Sarah Fotheringham, and keeping me sane in Trichy. At home, huge to Nicolas Thompson and Danish Abbas, to thanks to Jacky and Paps for the laughs and Dilliwala Mayank Austen Soofi, to Rajinder and advice. Mostly, to Susan Forsyth, for being Surinder Budhraja, to Nirinjan and Jyoti Desai, there always. my Delhi family, and to Luca for holding the . BEHIND THE SCENES 533 -

Nigel Nigel

Lonely Planet Planet Lonely . Cartography, Ellie Simpson Ellie Cartography, Charlotte Orr, Kathryn Rowan, Rowan, Kathryn Orr, Charlotte Whitmey Tracy Researcher Cover Parker Naomi Thanks to Assisting Editors Paul Forge, Samantha Chin, Kate Innes, Gabrielle Harding, Katie Jones, Elizabeth James, O’Connell, Lauren O’Connell, Hydrology and Earth System

Illustration pp190-1 by Michael Weldon. Weldon. Michael by pp190-1 Illustration flowers, Marigold photograph: Cover Kate

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted data map Climate ‘Updat (2007) TA & McMahon BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger of Map World ed Classification’, Sciences, 11, 163344 Gainey/Alamy. Pradesh/Tim Andhra - Product Editors Alison Ridgway Mathews, Designer Book Jessica Rose This guidebook was This guidebook was the following: by produced Destination Editor Bindloss Joe

South India & guidebook was guidebook was Paul Harding, Trent Holden, Holden, Trent Harding, Paul Noble and Iain Isabella Stewart. This 8th edition of Lonely Lonely This 8th edition of Planet’s Kerala by and written researched Blasi, Abigail John Noble, THIS BOOK to Aditya in Nagpur and Tadoba, Maria in Ma Tadoba, and in Nagpur Aditya to Kolhapur. and the merry musicians of theran and have a virtual beer with Paul Harding by by Harding Paul beer with a virtual and have MTDC at the folk good the to Thanks the sea. and Mr Shaker particularly state, the all over grateful very I’m also Singh in . Mrs Iain Stewart Iain in Bandra hang with Laksh to great It was ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 534

Index

A animals 154, 483-5 265 Marari 286-7 accommodation 494-6, see Anjuna 139-43, 140 Wayanad Wildlife Mobor 156 also individual locations Araku Valley 251 Sanctuary 318 Morjim 146-7 activities, see individual Arambol (Harmal) 148-9 Mumbai 53 activities, individual architecture 11, 480-2 Neil Island 421 locations B area codes 504 backwaters (Kerala) 9, 258-9, Palolem 157-61 Agonda 156-7, 9 art galleries, see museums 8-9, 254, 258, 259 Polem Beach 157 Aihole 222 & galleries Badami 220-2 Port Blair 414 air travel arts 260-1, 476-9, see Badshahi Ashurkhana 231 Ross Island 425 airlines 507-8 also individual arts Baga 135-9, 136 Sinquerim 133-5 airports 15, 508 ashrams 31 Smith Island 425 to/from South India 507-8 Anandwan 102 197-8 Talpona 157 within South India 508-9 Matha Amrithanandamayi bargaining 470 Vagator 143-6, 144, 17 Ajanta 96-9, 167 Mission 281 bathrooms 504, 505 257, 274-9, 276, Isha Yoga Center 397 Ajanta caves 10, 96-7, 167, beaches 16 256 , , Osho International 97 10 167 Agonda 156-7 248-9 Alappuzha (Alleppey) Meditation Resort 111 Alappuzha 282 bears 219 282-6, 284 Sevagram Ashram 100-1 Anjuna 139-43, 322 altitude sickness 520-1 Sivagiri Mutt 275 140 Arambol (Harmal) 148-9 Belur 203-4 Amaravathi 247 Sivananda Yoga Aswem 146-7 Benaulim 153-6 amoebic dysentery 519 Vedanta Dhanwantari Ashram 270 Baga 135-9, Bengaluru (Bangalore) 39, Amte, Murlidhar Devidas 136 172-85, 174-5 ‘Baba’ 102 Sri Anatha Niketan 275 Benaulim 153-6 accommodation 170, 398 Sri Aurobindo Calangute 135-9, 136 Ashram 359 178-9 ancient sites 162-9 Candolim 133-5 Sri Seshadri Swamigal activities 177 Andaman Islands 40, 408-26, Chapora 143-6, 144 Ashram 357 climate 170 409 331 Surfing Ashram 209 drinking & nightlife accommodation 408, 410 312 Aswem 146-7 181-2 climate 408, 410 Cola Beach 156 ATMs 500 entertainment 182 environment 410 Colva 153-6 Aurangabad 88-92, food 170, 179-81 food 408 90 Galgibag 157 Auroville 366-7 medical services 183 geography 410 Ganpatipule 104 autorickshaws 511 shopping 182-3 highlights 408 Gokarna 209-10 Avis Island 424 sights 173-7 history 410 Havelock Island 417 ayurveda 28-9, 278 tourist information 184 permits 411 257, 320-1 Alappuzha 282 tours 177-8 safety 410 Kappil Beach 322 Bengaluru 177 travel seasons 170 travel to/from 411 Kashid Beach 104 Kerala 274 travel to/from 184 travel within 411-12 Kattoor 286-7 Kochi 302 travel within 184-5 Andamanese people 423 Kerala 256-7, 256-7 (Quilon) 279 Betul 156 39, 226, 257, 270, 257 Kovalam 270 Bhaja 108-9 245-53, 227 Little Andaman 426 Madikeri 200, 201 Bhandardara 87-8 Anegundi 218-19 Long Island 423 Mamallapuram 349 bhang lassi 502 Malvan 105 Mysuru 192 251 Mamallapuram 348 Periyar Wildlife Bhongir 244 Map Pages 000 Sanctuary 291 Mandrem 147-8 Bibi-qa-Maqbara 88-9 Photo Pages 000 Puducherry 361 Mangaluru 205 bicycle travel, see cycling 535 Bidar 225 buffalo racing 210 Chettinadu 378-80 Puducherry 360-1 169, 225, 168 bus travel 493, 509-10, 511 Coonoor 397-9 (Vijapura) business hours 15, 501 Maharaj Vastu costs 222-5, 223 Bylakuppe 202 Sangrahalaya 50-1 accommodation birds 485, 486 Chhatrapati Shivaji 494, 495 Terminus 47, 50 birdwatching car travel 511

C Chidambaram 367-8 INDEX Backwoods Camp 135 food 497 Calangute 135-9, 136 children, travel with 35-7 Bandipur National Park train travel 515 Candolim 133-5 197-8 Chinnar Wildlife Cotigao Wildlife canoeing 101, 289, see also Sanctuary 297 -Hampi 215 Sanctuary 157-8  B kayaking, rafting Chiriya Tapu 416-17 Havelock Island 418 courses, see also cooking  D car travel 510-11 Chola empire 434-5 Kumarakom Bird courses, language carbon-monoxide Sanctuary 289 choli 447 courses, yoga courses poisoning 521 Mumbai 60 229 dance 61 Carnival 19 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Christianity 438, 458 martial arts 265 carpets 469-70 Reserve 101 churches & cathedrals music 61, 192 caste system 447-8, 449 Thattekkad Bird Basilica of Bom textile painting 333 Sanctuary 297-8 cathedrals, see churches & Jesus 129 Craggy Island 425 cathedrals Vedanthangal Bird Church of Our Lady credit cards 490, 500 Cavelossim 156 Sanctuary 352 of the Immaculate cricket 450-1 caves Conception 122 boat travel, see also crocodiles 346, 398 houseboats Ajanta 10, 96-8, 167, , Church of Our Lady of 97 culture 428-30, 446-51 local transport 511 10, 167 the Mount 130 currency 14, 499-500 to/from South India 508 Aurangabad Caves 89 Church of St Cajetan 130 customs regulations 496 tours 18 Baratang 422 Church of St Francis of Assisi 130 cycle-rickshaws 511 within South India 509 Bhaja 108 Lourdes Church 376 cycling 509 boat trips 251 Notre Dame des Kochi 303 Candolim 133 Cave Temples Anges 362 391 Goa 120-1 (Badami) 221 Edakal Caves 317 Our Lady of Immaculate Puducherry 361 Kerala’s backwaters Conception 288-9 Ellora 10, 93-6, 167, Cathedral 362 94, 167 Kochi 303 Sacred Heart D Kodaikanal 391 Forty One Caves 424 Basilica 362 dabba-wallahs 69 Kollam (Quilon) 279 Kanheri Caves 61 Santa Cruz Basilica 299 dance 476 Ooty 401 Karla 108 San Thome dangers, see safety Panaji 123 Tiger Cave 346 Cathedral 332 Daroji Periyar Wildlife cell phones 14, 503-4 Sé Cathedral (Old Goa) Sanctuary 219 Sanctuary 290 chai 465-6 129-30 Daulatabad 92-3, 169, 274 Chandor 153 St Aloysius College 2, 169 Bollywood 75, 479 chapati 459-60 Chapel 205 488 books 428, 479 Chapora 143-6, 144 St Francis Church 299 dengue fever 519 border crossings 508 229 St Philomena’s dhal 460 Cathedral 189 Brahma 452 Chennai (Madras) 40, 327- Dhanushkodi 386 St Stephen’s Brahman 452 45, 328-9, 334-5 52 Church 400 Brihadishwara Temple accommodation 334-7 Dharmasthala 207 St Thomas’ 165, 371 activities 333 dhoti 447 Cathedral 52 British courses 333 diarrhoea 519-20 cinema, see film 439-41 drinking & nightlife 340 Diglipur 424-5 climate 14 British in India 438, entertainment 340-1 diphtheria 517 439-41 climate change 487-8 festivals & events 333-4 disabilities, travellers Buddhism 457 clothing 447, 492 food 337-40 with 505 Buddhist temples, see 395-7, 396 medical services 342 diving & snorkelling 18 also Hindu temples, Jain Colva 153-6 Baga 135 temples, monasteries, shopping 341-2 consulates 497 Calangute 135 temples sights 330-3 cooking courses 465 Chiriya Tapu 416-17 Ellora 95, 94, 167 tourist information 342 Anjuna 140-1 Craggy Island 425 Golden Temple 202 tours 333 Kochi 302 Excelsior Island 425 Global Pagoda 59 travel to/from 342-4 294 Goa 120-1 Nagarjunakonda 247 travel within 344-5 Periyar Wildlife Havelock Island 417-18 budget 15, see also costs Chennamangalam 313 Sanctuary 290 Lakshadweep 323 536 diving & snorkelling Eravikulam National Mamallapuram Dance Fort 116 continued Park 297 Festival 327, 349, 477 103-4 Long Island 424 etiquette 462, 456 Muharram 22, 228, 235 109-10 Mahatma Gandhi Marine events, see festivals & Mumbai 45 105 National Park 416 events Mumbai Film Festival 45 Sultan’s Battery 205 Malvan 105 Excelsior Island 425 Mumbai Sanskruti Thirumayam Fort 379

INDEX INDEX Malvan National Marine exchange rates 15 45, 477 354-5 Park 106 Naag Panchami 21, 85 244 Neil Island 421 Nariyal Poornima 45 Smith Island 425 F D- fair-trade cooperatives 472 Natyanjali Dance Festival  327, 368, 477 H Diwali 22, G  20 festivals & events 19-22 dolphins 133, 154 Gandhi, Mahatma 442-3 Andhra Pradesh 228 dosas 460 264, 282 Ganesh Chaturthi 21 Bastille Day 362 Dravidian politics 331 264 Ganpatipule 104 Brahmotsavam 228 drinking 465-6, see also 19, 327, 459, 2 gardens, see parks & Carnival 19, 120, 123 individual locations President’s Trophy Boat gardens Chennai Festival of drinking water 520 Race 279 Gateway of India 46 Music & Dance Ramadan 21 gay travellers 72, 497-8 driving, see car travel 327, 333-4 Sabado Gordo 120 gem scams 490-1 drug scams 490 Chithirai Festival Dudhsagar Falls 155 327, 383 Sankranti 19, 228, 235 geography 486-7 Dussehra 22 Classical Dance Festival Sawai Gandharva giardiasis 519-20 Dutch in India 438 177 Sangeet Mahotsav 85 Gingee (Senji) 358 Cochin Festival 303 Shigmotsav (Shigmo) of Goa 9, 39, 118-61, 119, 9 Holi 120 Diwali 22, 20 accommodation 118, 121 E Shivaratri 19 activities 120-1 economy 428 Dussehra 22, 85, 177, 194 327 climate 118 electricity 496-7 Elephanta Festival 45, 477 228 festivals 120 elephant rides Eliora Ajanta Teppam (Float) Festival food 118 Kochi 303 327, 382-3 Aurangabad highlights 119 Mudumalai Tiger Thrissur Festival 85 history 120 Reserve 406 264, 314 Ernakulathappan travel to/from 121 Periyar Wildlife Utsavam 264, 303 Thyagaraja Aradhana travel within 121-2 Sanctuary 291 Fama de Menino 327, 373, 477 Gokarna 208-12 398 Jesus 120 Thypooya 169, Elephanta Island 59-60 Feast of Our Lady of the Maholsavam 314 elephants 483, 486 Immaculate Udupi Paryaya 177 231-3, 168 Alappuzha 282 Conception 123 Uthralikavu Pooram 314 Golgumbaz 163, 222-3, 163 Bandipur National Park Feast of St Francis Vairamudi Festival 177 Government Museum 330-1 197-8 Xavier 120 Vijaya Utsav 177, 215 Guntupalli 167, 249 Chinnar Wildlife Feast of the Three Virupaksha Car Sanctuary 297 Kings 120 Festival 215 H Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Ganesh Chaturthi 21, 45, film 428, 448, 478-9 haggling 470 406 85, 177 food 459-68, 497, see also Halebid 203-4 Nagarhole National Goa 120 individual locations Hampi 10, 153, 165, 212-18, Park 199 Holi 19, 20 133 214, 217, 10, 162, 164 Parambikulam Wildlife Huthri 177 forts 16, 168-9, 481-2 Havelock Island 417-20, 418 Sanctuary 298 International Film 176 Wayanad Wildlife health 516-21 Festival of India 123 Bidar Fort 169, 225, 168 Sanctuary 317 henna 478 International Yoga Fort 253 Ellora 10, 93-6, 167, 94, 167 Festival 362 hepatitis 517, 519 Citadel (Bijapur) 223-4 Eluru 247 Kala Ghoda Festival 45 Hessaraghatta 186 Dansborg 367 embassies 497 Kalidas Festival 85 hijras 450 Daulatabad 92-3, 169, emergencies 15 177 hiking, see trekking 2, 169 Karthikai Deepam hill stations 18, 255 Fort Aguada 133 484-5 Festival 22, 327, 357 Coonoor 397-9 Fort St George 331 environmental issues Kerala 264 Kodaikanal 390-5, 358 392 487-8 279 Kotagiri 399 Golconda Fort 169, Kottamkulangara 231-3, Mahabaleshwar 114 Chamaya Vilakku 279 168 Janjira 102-3, 169 Munnar 255, 294-7, 295 Map Pages 000 Lakshadeepotsava 177 Madikeri Fort 200 Ooty 400-6, 402 Photo Pages 000 85 537 Himalaya, the 486-7 Pataleshvara Cave houseboats 208, 258-9, jewellery 470-1 Hindu temples 355, see Temple 110 288-9, 322, 258 Jog Falls 208 also Buddhist temples, Ramanathaswamy Hubli (Hubballi) 220 Jain temples, temples Temple 385-6 11, 228-44, 1000-Pillared Ramappa Temple 245 230, 232, 234, 236, K Kakkabe 202-3 Temple 244 Rock Fort Temple 374-5 239, 11 kalarippayat 260-1, 309, 261 Airavatesvara Temple 370 Sarangapani Temple 369 accommodation 235-7 INDEX Arunachaleshwar Shore Temple 347, 165 climate 226 Kanchipuram 352-4, 353 Temple 356 Shri Padmanabhaswamy drinking & Kannur 320-2 Badami Cave entertainment 240 Kanyakumari (Cape -Temple 265  H Temples 221 festivals & events 235 Comorin) 387-90, 388 Simhachalam Temple 249  K Birla Mandir 231 Sree Vallabha food 226, 237-40 Karla 108-9 Brihadishwara Temple Temple 290 medical services 241 Karnataka 39, 170-225, 171 165, 371 Sri Jambukeshwara shopping 240-1 accommodation 170, 172 Bull Temple 176 Temple 376 sights 229-34 climate 170 Channakeshava Sri Manakula Vinayagar tourist information 241-2 festivals 177 Temple 203 Temple 359 tours 234-5 food 170 Ekambareshwara Sri Ranganathaswamy travel seasons 226 highlights 171 Temple 352-3 Temple 375-6 travel to/from 242 history 172 Elephanta Island 59-60 Thirunelly Temple 317 travel within 242-4 Karthikai Deepam 22 Five Rathas 347 Trimbakeshwar Temple 88 Kashmir 444 Gangaikondacholapuram Undavalli Cave Temple 370 Temples 245 260, 309, 476, I 260 Gumpha Panchavati 85 Vadakkunathan Ibrahim Rouza 163, 223 Kattoor 286-7 Temple Kshetram Temple 313-14 idlis 460 (Anegundi) 218-19 kayaking 157, 282 Varadaraja Perumal Igatpuri 88 Hazarama Temple 213 Temple 353 Kerala 39, 254-61, 262- immigration 507 Hoysaleswara Temple Venkateshwara 323, 263 Independence 441-2 203-4 Temple 252 accommodation 262, 264 indigenous peoples 404, 423 Iskcon Temple Vijayalaya backwaters 9, 258-9, 3, influenza 519 (Bengaluru) 177 Cholisvaram 379 8-9, 254, 258, 259 insurance 498, 516 Iskcon Temple (Mumbai) Virupaksha Temple beaches 256-7, 256, 257 internet access 498-9 57-9 212-13 climate 262 internet resources 15 Janardhana Temple 275 Vittala Temple 213 festivals 264 Interview Island 424 Kadri Manjunatha 447-8, 452-5 food 262 Temple 206 Islam 455-6 historic sites 162-9 highlights 263 Kailasa Temple 94 history 431-45 itineraries 23-5, 23, 24, 25 history 264 Kailasanatha Temple 352 books 439, 443 houseboats 258-9, 258, Kala Rama Temple 84 British in India 438, 259 Kamakshi Amman 439-41 J Jain temples, see also performing arts 260-1 Temple 353 Chola empire 434-5 Buddhist temples, khadi 473 Kapaleeshwarar Dutch in India 438 Hindu temples, temples Temple 332 Khotachiwadi 53 Independence 441-2 Babu Amichand Panalal Keshava Temple 197 Khuldabad 93 internet resources 431 Adishwarji Jain Temple 213 Kochi (Cochin) 298-312, Kashmir 444 Temple 57 Kumari Amman 299, 300, 302, 304 dynasty Sravanabelagola 204 Temple 387 accommodation 303-7 438-9, 440 Jainism 457-8 Kumbeshwara activities 302 Mauryan empire 432-4 Jalgaon 99 Temple 369 courses 302 438-9 Janjira 102-3, 169 Lakshimi Narasmiha 213 entertainment 308-9 Partition 442, 443-5 Japanese B encephalitis Mahalaxmi Temple festivals & events 303 Portuguese in India 437, 517, 519 (Kolhapur) 116 food 307-8 437-8, 445 Jarawa people 423 Mahalaxmi Temple jeep safaris medical services 310 (Mumbai) 56-7 Vijayanagar empire 435-7 Bandipur National shopping 309-10 Meenakshi Amman hitching 511 Park 198 sights 298-302 Temple 165, 381, 13, HIV 519 Nagarhole National tourist information 17, 164 310-11 hockey 451 Park 199 Mumba Devi Temple 53 tours 302-3 Holi 19, 20 Periyar Wildlife Nageshwara Temple 369 Sanctuary 290-1 travel to/from 311 holidays 502-3 Nataraja Temple 367-8 Wayanad Wildlife travel within 311-12 horse riding 391 Parthasarathy Sanctuary 317 Kodagu (Coorg) 199-203 Temple 331 Hospet (Hosapete) 219-20 538 Kodaikanal (Kodai) 390-5, highlights 83 mobile phones 14, 503-4 Kalbadevi 53-7, 70, 73, 392 history 84 Mobor 156 77, 54-5 Kolhapur 116-17 Mahatma Gandhi Marine monasteries Mahalaxmi 53-7, 70, 73, Kollam (Quilon) National Park 416 251 77, 54-5 279-81, 280 Malabar Hill 57 Guntupalli 249 northern suburbs 66-7 Konkan Coast 102-6 malaria 518 Namdroling shopping 76-8

INDEX INDEX Korlai 104 Malpe 208 Monastery 202 sights 45-60 Kotagiri 399 Malvan 105-6 Sankaram 251 tourist information 78 Kottayam 287-8 Malvan National Marine 251 tours 61-3

K- Kovalam 270-4, 271 Park 106 money 14, 15, 499-501 travel seasons 42 

M Kozhikode (Calicut) Mamallapuram Hill 350 monuments & statues travel to/from 79  315-17, 316 Mamallapuram Arjuna’s Penance 347-8 travel within 80-1 Kumarakom 289-90, 254 (Mahabalipuram) Bibi-qa-Maqbara 88-9 western suburbs 57-8, 165, 346-52, Kumarakom Bird 348 Buddha Statue & 66-7, 70-1, 73-4, 78, 58 Sanctuary 289 Mandrem 147-8 234 mundu 447 Mangaluru (Mangalore) Kumbakonam 368-71, 369 Charminar 229 Munnar 255, 294-7, 295 204-7, 205 Kumily 290-4, 291 Gandhi Memorial 387-8 Murud 102-3 maps 499 Gateway of India 46 Murudeshwar 211 Mapusa 131-3 Golgumbaz 222-3 museums & galleries Marari 286-7 L Gomateshvara Lakshadweep 323 Anthropological Museum Maratha dynasty Statue 204 412-13 language courses 61, 333 438-9, 440 Ibrahim Rouza 223 Archaeological Museum languages 14, 522-31 Margao (Madgaon) Kamaraj Memorial 388 213-14 leatherwork 471 149-53, 150 Thiruvalluvar Statue 387 Archaeology Museum legal matters 499 Marine Drive 51 Vivekananda (Thrissur) 314 leopards 483 markets & bazaars 12, see Memorial 387 Birla Modern Art also shopping Bandipur National Park Morjim 146-7 Gallery 231 197-8 Anjuna 142 mosques Chatterjee & Lal 51 Chinnar Wildlife Arpora 139 Haji Ali Dargah 53, 56 Chhatrapati Shivaji Sanctuary 297 Bengaluru 175-6 Maharaj Vastu Jama Masjid 224 Nagarhole National Bijapur 224 Sangrahalaya 50-1 Jamia Masjid 196 Park 199 Hyderabad 241 DakshinaChitra Mecca Masjid 230 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Mapusa 131 Museum 346 Reserve 101-2 motorcycle travel 512-13 Mumbai 77 Delhi Art Gallery 53 lesbian travellers 72, 497-8 Moula Ali Dargah 233-4 Mysuru 188 Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai lions 270 Mt Arunachala 356-7 City Museum 53 Panaji 127 literature 428, 479 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Galerie Mirchandaani + Thiruvananthapuram 269 Little Andaman 425-6 406-7 Steinruecke 51 marriage 446-7 Lonar Meteorite Crater 101 Mughal empire 438-9 Gallery Maskara 51 Matheran 106-7 Lonavla 107-8 Muharram 22 Gandhi Memorial Mauryan empire 432-4 Long Island 422-4 Mumbai (Bombay) 38, Museum 381-2 mausoleums, see tombs, 42-81, 43, 11 Goa Chitra 154 lungi 447 shrines & mausoleums accommodation 42, 63-7 Goa State Museum 122-3 Mayabunder 424 activities 60-1 Government Museum measures 496 M art district 51 (Bengaluru) 173 medical services 518 Madikeri (Mercara) 200-1 climate 42 Government Museum meditation 29 Madurai 165, 380-5, 382 Colaba 45-7, 63-5, 67-8, (Chennai) 330-1 magazines 496 meditation courses 18, 30 72-3, 76, 46 HEH The Nizam’s Mahabaleshwar 114 Chennai 333 courses 61 Museum 229-30 Mahabharata 454 Eluru 247 drinking & nightlife 71-81 Hill Palace Museum 312-13 Maharashtra 38, Igatpuri 88 Elephanta Island 59-60 82-117, 83 Nagarjunakonda 248 Houses of Goa emergencies 78 Museum 123 accommodation 82, 84 111 entertainment 74-6 climate 82 Meenakshi Amman Temple food 42, 67-71 Rashtriya Manav festivals 85 13, 165, 381, 13, 17, 164 Fort Area & Churchgate Sangrahalaya 189 food 82 mehndi 478 47-53, 65-6, 68-70, 73, Indo-Portuguese Melkote 197 76-7, 48-9 Museum 299 meningitis 517 Gorai Island 59 Janapada Loka Folk Arts Map Pages 000 metalware 471 highlights 43 Museum 186 Photo Pages 000 Mettupalayam 397 itineraries 44 Jehangir Art Gallery 52 539 Jhaveri Contemporary 51 Visvesvaraya Industrial Thattekkad Bird Ooty Botanical Karnataka Chitrakala & Technical Museum Sanctuary 297-8 Gardens 400 Parishath 173 173-4 Vedanthangal Bird Osho Teerth Kashi Art Gallery 301 Vivekananda House Sanctuary 352 Gardens 111 Kerala Folklore 331-2 Wayanad Wildlife Panchakki 89 Museum 302 music 476-7 Sanctuary 255, Rose Garden 400 317-20, 319 musical instruments 471-2 Sim’s Park 397 INDEX Museum 281-2 Mysore, see Mysuru Neil Island 420-2 Theosophical Mani Bhavan 53 Mysore Palace 163, 187-8, newspapers 496 Society 332 Maritime Museum 12, 190-1 Neyyar Wildlife Parsis 56 -M  (Kochi) 299 Mysuru (Mysore) 12, 186- Sanctuary 270 Partition 442, 443-5 R  301 96, 188-9 Nicobarese people 423 Parur 313 Mumbai Boss 51 Nilgiri Hills 404, 401 passports 505-6, 507 Museum of Christian 297 Pattadakal 222 Art 130 N Naag Panchami 21 Payyanur 322 Museum of History & Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary Heritage 265 naan 460 O 255, 290-4, 291 Nagarjunakonda Old Goa 129-30, 129 photography 491, 501-2 Museum 247 199 olive ridley marine planning 14-15, see also 264-5 Nagarjunakonda 247-8 turtles 425 individual locations National Gallery of Nagpur 99-100 Onge people 423 calendar of events 19-22 Modern Art Nandi Hills 186 Ooty (Ootacamund, children 35-7 (Bengaluru) 173 Nasik 84-7, 86 Udhagamandalam) National Gallery of National Gallery of Modern 400-6, 402-3 internet resources 15 Modern Art (Mumbai) Art (Bengaluru) 173 opening hours 15, 501 itineraries 23-5, 23, 52-3 National Gallery of Modern Osho 111, 112 24, 25 Natural History Art (Mumbai) 52-3 South India’s regions 38 Museum 265 national parks, reserves travel seasons 14 P Project 88 51 & wildlife sanctuaries plants 485 paan 461 Puducherry Museum 17-18, 485-6 polio 517 painting 477-8 359-60 Anamalai Tiger politics 429 Reserve 398 paintings 472-3 Pudukkottai pollution 487 Museum 379 Bandipur National Park palaces 16, 163, 481-2 Ponda 130-1 Puthe Maliga Palace 197-8 109 Pongal 19, 327, 459, Museum 265 Chinnar Wildlife Bangalore Palace 173 2 Rail Museum 189 Sanctuary 297 Ponnumthuruthu Island 275 Dinkar Kelkar Cotigao Wildlife (Hyderabad) 231 Museum 109 Sanctuary 157-8 Chowmahalla Palace 229 Poovar 274 RKK Memorial Daroji Sloth Bear Daria Daulat Bagh 196 population 429 Museum 282 Sanctuary 219 Jaganmohan Palace 188 Port Blair 412-16, 413 Sacred Heart Natural Eravikulam National Mysore Palace 163, 187-8, Portuguese in India Park 297 437-8, 445 Science Museum 391 12, 190-1 229 Kumarakom Bird Nalakunad Palace 202 postal services 502 Sanctuary 289 Samudrika Marine Padmanabhapuram Pratapgad Fort 116 Museum 413-14 Mahatma Gandhi Marine Palace 390 public holidays 502-3 National Park 416 Shivaji Museum 89 Royal Palace 371-3 Puducherry (Pondicherry) Shree Chhatrapati Shahu Malvan National Marine 11, 358-66, 360, 11 Park 106 Tipu Sultan’s Palace 174-5 Museum 116-17 Pune 109-15, 110 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Tirumalai Nayak Shri Chitra Art Palace 382 puri 460 Gallery 265 406-7 Palampet 245 Sri Parvata Arama 248 Nagarhole National Park 199 Palolem 157-61, 158 State Museum Q (Hyderabad) 231 Neyyar Wildlife Panaji (Panjim) 122-8, 124 163, 233 Sanctuary 270 Submarine Parambikulam Wildlife Museum 248 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary 298 Sanctuary 298 R Sullivan Memorial 399 Pardesi Synagogue 301-2 Periyar Wildlife rabies 517, 519 Swami Vivekananda parks & gardens Sanctuary 255, radio 496 Wandering Monk Bryant Park 391 290-4, rafting Exhibition 387 291 Cubbon Park 173 Sanjay Gandhi National Mumbai 60 Tea Museum 294 Kailasagiri Hill 248 Park 61 Periyar Wildlife Tribal Cultural Lalbagh Botanical Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Sanctuary 290 Museum 109 Gardens 173 Reserve 101-2 Raigad Fort 103-4 540 Rajneesh, Bhagwan seafood 460, 461 Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai tombs, shrines & Shree 112 Sentinelese people 423 45-6, 11 mausoleums 163 Ramadan 21 Sevagram 100-1 Tamil Nadu 13, 40, 324- Bahmani Tombs 225 454-5 453 407, 325 Choukhandi 225 Rameswaram 385-7 Shivaji, Chhatrapati 440 accommodation Golgumbaz 163, 222-3, 324, 326 Ramtek 100 Shivaratri 19 163

INDEX INDEX climate 324 Rangat 422 116 Gumbaz 196 festivals 327 rangolis 448 Shompen people 423 233 food 324 Rani Abbakka 208 shopping 469-75, see Qutb Shahi Tombs

R- religion 429, 446, 447, 448, also markets & bazaars, highlights 325 163, 233 

V 452-8 individual locations history 326 Raja’s Tombs 200  rice 459 shrines, see tombs, shrines taxis 493, 512 Tiger Cave 346 rock climbing & mausoleums tea 13, 255 Top Station 297, 255 Badami 221 Sikhism 456-7 Highfield Tea tourist information 505, Bengaluru 177 silent parties 160 Estate 397 see also individual Hampi 214-15 silk 92 Munnar 255, 294 locations Ross Island (North 115 Periyar Wildlife tours 508, 513, see also Andaman) 425 Sinquerim 133-5 Sanctuary 291 boat tours, jeep safaris, walking tours, individual Ross Island (Port Blair) 414 sloth bears 219 Telangana 39, 226, 228-44, locations roti 459-60 slums 52 244-5, 227 touts 491 ruins Smith Island 425 telephone services 14, 503-4 train travel 26-7, 509, 511-12, Aihole 222 snorkelling, see diving & 514-15 temples 16, 480-1, see Daulatabad 92-3 snorkelling also Buddhist temples, Tranquebar 367 solo travellers 493 Gingee Fort 358 Hindu temples, Jain travel to/from South India Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Somnathpur 197 temples 507-8 Madrasa 225 spas 29, 31 tempos 511 travel within South India Mahanavami-diiba 213 spice farms 131, 157, 291 tetanus 517 508-15 Monastery of St spices 201 textiles 473-4 trekking Augustine 130 sport 450-1 thalis 464, 2 Havelock Island 418 Queen’s Bath 213 Sravanabelagola 204 Thanjavur (Tanjore) 165, Kodagu (Coorg) 200 Shivneri 116 Sri Kalahasti 253 371-4, 372 Kodaikanal 391 Sinhagad 115 Sri Ramakrishna 367 Mumbai 60 Zenana Enclosure 213 Math 332 Thattekkad Bird Munnar 294 Sri Ranganathaswamy Sanctuary 297-8 Nilgiri Hills 400-1 Temple 375-6 theft 491 Ooty 400-1 S Srirangapatnam 196-7 293 260, 321, 261 Palolem 157-8 statues, see monuments & Thiruvananthapuram Periyar Wildlife safety 490-1, 503 statues (Trivandrum) Sanctuary 290-1 Andaman Islands 410 street food 463 264-70, 266 Saddle Peak 425 drinking water 520 surfing 18 drugs 122 Thrissur (Trichur) 313-15, Wayanad Wildlife Arambol 148 Sanctuary 318 food 490 313 Aswem 147 Trichy () hitching 511 Tibetan refugees 202 Covelong Point 346 374-8, 375, 377 scams 490-1 tigers 483, 484, 486, 12 Goa 120-1 Trimbak 88 shopping 470 Anamalai Tiger Gokarna 209-10 Reserve 398 Tripunithura 312-13 solo travellers 493 Kovalam 270 Bandipur National Park tuberculosis 517, 519 women travellers 492-3 Little Andaman 426 197-8 turtles 425 Salar Jung Museum 229 Mamallapuram 348 Mudumalai Tiger TV 496 salwar kameez 447 Puducherry 361 Reserve 406-7 typhoid 517, 519 Sanjay Gandhi National Varkala 275 Nagarhole National Park 61 synagogues Park 199 Sankaram 251 Keneseth Eliyahoo Parambikulam Wildlife U Udupi (Udipi) 207-8 Sankranti 19 Synagogue 52 Sanctuary 298 saris 447 Pardesi Synagogue Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve 101-2 Sassoon Dock 47 301-2 V time 504 scams 490-1 vacations 502-3 Tirumala 252-3 Vagator 143-6, 144, 17 T Tirupati 252-3 Map Pages 000 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger 356-8 Backwaters 322 Photo Pages 000 Reserve 101-2 toilets 504, 505 Valparai 398 541 Varca 156 Mumbai 62, 63, 62 wildlife 12, 483-5, see Arambol 148 varicella 517 Mysuru 192 also birdwatching, Bengaluru 177 individual species Varkala 274-9, 276, 30, Puducherry 361 Chennai 333 256-7 Wall Project 57 wildlife sanctuaries, Goa 120 see national parks, Vedanthangal Bird Wandoor 416 reserves & wildlife Igatpuri 88 Sanctuary 352 Warangal 244-5 sanctuaries Lonavla 107 vegetarian travellers 462 INDEX water, drinking 520 wine 87, 187 Mandrem 147-8 Vellore 354-6 water sports 18 women in India 430, Mumbai 60-8, 61 Victoria Terminus 47, 50 waterfalls 448-50 Mysuru 193 -Vijayanagar empire 435-7 Abbi Falls 200 women travellers 492-3 Palolem 157  V Z  Vijayawada 245-7 Catherine Falls 399 women’s health 492, 521 Poondi 397 vikrams 511 Dudhsagar Falls 155 woodcarving 474 Pune 112 Visakhapatnam 248-50 Hampi 214 World Heritage Sites Sivananda Yoga visas 14, 505-6 Jog Falls 208 Ajanta 10, 96-8, 97, 10 Vedanta Dhanwantari Ashram 270 Vishnu 452-3 Kodaikanal 391 Brihadishwara Temple volunteering 32-4 Whisper Wave 426 371 Thiruvananthapuram 265 Kanchipuram 353 White Surf 426 Chhatrapati Shivaji Varkala 275, 30 Kotagiri 399 Wayanad Wildlife Terminus 47, 50 Mapusa 131 Sanctuary 255, 317-20, Ellora 10, 93-6, 167, Z Mumbai 60-1 319 94, 167 zoos weather 14, see also Hampi 10, 153, 165, Chiriya Tapu Biological individual locations 212-18, 214, 217, 10, Park 416 W websites 15 162, 164 walking, see trekking Madras Crocodile weights 496 Pattadakal 222 Bank 346 walking tours (Kerala) Mysore Zoo 189 Bengaluru 177 290-8 Zoological Gardens Chennai 333 Y Western Ghats (Tamil (Thiruvananthapuram) yoga courses 18, 29, 30 Hyderabad 235 Nadu) 390-407 264 Anjuna 143 Madurai 382 whisky 187 Zoroastrianism 458 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 542

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Isabella Noble Tamil Nadu & Chennai Isabella’s first experience of South India was a masala dosa at Shimla’s Indian Coffee House. She has been travelling to India for over five years, but loves the ever-so-slightly more laid-back pace of the friendly South. This time she got lost in Valparai’s tea plantations, checked out Chennai’s countless bars, then got stuck in the Nilgiris thanks to landslide. Between trips, Isabella lives in London with a wardrobe of Indian shawls. She tweets @isabellamnoble. Read more about Isabella at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabellanoble

Iain Stewart Mumbai (Bombay), Maharashtra Iain grew up in Leicester, a very Indian town transplanted to the Midlands, UK (complete with its own curry mile). He first visited India in 1991 and explored the sights at totally the wrong time of year with temperatures approaching 50°C in parts. For this trip he wised up and travelled post-monsoon: bar-hopping in Mumbai, meandering down the Konkan coast and having several near-misses with tigers in Tadoba. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS John Noble Coordinating Author, Telangana & Andhra Pradesh John, from England, has writ- ten about six different Indian states and 20-odd other countries for Lonely Planet. He first experienced South India in the 1980s when Chennai’s Triplicane High Rd was clogged with bullock carts, and families milked their buffaloes beside it. Autorickshaws have replaced bullock carts now, but he loves returning to South India because, in a nutshell, there’s never a dull moment there! As a long-time fan of William Dalrymple’s White Mughals, John’s biggest thrill of this trip was getting the chance to explore fascinating Hyderabad in depth. He wrote the Plan Your Trip and Understand sections and the Directory and Transport chapters. He tweets @john_a_noble and Instagrams as johnnoble11. Read more about John at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ewoodrover Abigail Blasi Abigail fell in love with India on her first visit in 1994, and since then she’s ex- plored and written on India from north to south and back again. She’s covered plenty of other places for Lonely Planet too, from Mauritania and Mali to Rome and Lisbon. Abigail wrote the Booking Trains, Scams, Women & Solo Travellers and Health chapters.

Paul Harding Goa, Kerala Paul first landed in India in the mid-90s and has returned regularly over the years, usually writing about it. He still has a soft spot for the south, where the pace of life is slower, the food tastier and the beer (usually) colder. For this edition he was fortunate enough to return to Goa and Kerala where he researched beaches and backwaters, homestays and huts, seafood curries and chicken xacutis.

Trent Holden Karnataka & Bengaluru, Andaman Islands On his third time co-authoring the India book, Trent was assigned with the not-so-shabby task of testing out Ben- galuru’s microbreweries, searching for tigers in Bandipur NP and checking out Hampi’s ruins before hitting the beaches in Gokarna. He then returned to the Andaman Islands for more sun, surf and sand. A freelance travel writer based in London, Trent also covers destinations such as Nepal, Zimbabwe and Japan. In between travels he writes about food and music. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – October 2015 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74321 677 4 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 2015 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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