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A Landsat TM and ETM+ Survey of Quaternary Coastal Landforms in the Central Coast of NSW, Australia

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A Landsat TM and ETM+ Survey of Quaternary Coastal Landforms in the Central Coast of NSW, Australia A Landsat TM and ETM+ survey of quaternary coastal landforms in the central coast of NSW, Australia Julia Yagüe & Pilar García Complutense University, Department of Regional Geographical Analysis and Physical Geography, Madrid, Spain; [email protected] [email protected] Keywords: multitemporal RS, Landsat, remote seasonal vegetation detection, discriminating vegetal associations ABSTRACT: Landsat TM and ETM+ images are analysed to describe the vast array of quaternary landforms and sediments that occur in the Great Lakes district of the central coast of New South Wales (NSW), Eastern Australia, about 230 km north of Sydney. The study area falls between the lower Hunter river mouth to the south (Newcastle) and Cape Hawke Harbour in Wallis Lake to the north (Forster Tuncurry). Field campaigns preceded the remote sensing survey. The geological structure and the physiography of the area are controlled by folds which tend from due north to N40°W; the resistance of the carboniferous and Permian strata to erosion determines the coastal landforms of quaternary age. Several eolian, erosive and cumulative coastal landforms can be recognized within the bedrock embayments, which are the product of fluvial, paludal, lacustrine, estuarine and marine processes. Quaternary climatic oscillations have largely determined the geomorphic progression of the area in two distinct and parallel beach ridge systems. Landsat imagery helped to identify the dimensions of the following features: (i) Hard rock headlands and volcanic outcrops that conform the turning point of embayments. (ii) Flood plain deposits, including forms such as levees, back-swamps and filled-in channels. (iii) Estuaries and deltas. (iv) Eustatic terraces, although these are found further inland from the actual coastline. (v) Coastal lagoons (locally called lakes) enclosed by barriers. Size and shape vary depending on bedrock depth and relationship to barrier system. Bathymetry, hydrology and salinity do not follow a uniform pattern throughout the lagoons. (vi) Bogs and swamps, evidencing the existence of past larger water bodies, now colonized by vegetation fringing the lagoons’ inner bays or silting the low inner barrier corridors. (vii) A double barrier system of sand ridges; the inner barrier system is composed of highly podzolised Pleistocene sands while the outer barrier consists of Holocene sands. (viii) Sand spits, enclosing coastal lagoons or linking offshore rocky outcrops. Analysis methods included image geocorrection and mosaicing, atmospheric filtering, radiometric enhancement, visual interpretation, supervised classification and mapping. 1 INTRODUCTION The coastal forms found in the central coast of NSW offer a great scope for research, both of coastal morphological features and processes (1). The study area houses a relatively large variety of littoral features: this fact, far from enlightening the analysis, evidences the complex overlapping of terrestrial, coastal and marine processes recorded in such narrow biosphere fringe. On the other hand, the intricate mosaic of biota and habitats, coastal lagoons, dune ridges, biogeographic adaptations, tidal wetlands, barriers and spits, rocky headlands, etc., give prove of evidence of the active dynamics experienced in the swath zone 5 to 10 km wide across the coastline. 829 More precisely, the NSW coastal stretch chosen for this research work falls (N to S) between the localities of Forster Tuncurry (32°10′28.39″S-152°30′31.85″E) at the natural opening of Wallis lake to the Pacific Ocean, just north of Cape Hawke and the lower Hunter River mouth, governed by the coalmining city of Newcastle (32°54′54.04″S-151°47′55.7″E) (Figure 1). In spatial administrative terms, this section belongs to the Great Lakes Shire. Most of the coastal fringe falls under some kind of environmental protection figure, such as National Park (Myall Lakes) (2), State Recreation Area (Booti Booti), Nature Reserve (Broughton Island), State Forest or the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands of International Significance. The region has a humid temperate climate with average annual rainfall of 1300 mm and mean monthly temperatures ranging from 17°C in winter to 27°C in summer. Changes in substrata and the complex variety of habitats favour botanic diversity, also depending on fire history, timber extraction and grazing clearing. The most common botanical associations in the coastal fringe are: Bloodwood-Angophora costata, Blackbutt-Angophora costata, tree swamp, shrub swamp and cabbage tree communities. Figure 1. Location of study site. Landsat ETM+. 08.08.2001. Path 89, Rows 82, 83. RGB, 4-3-2. The objective of this study is to perform a survey of the coastal landforms lying within the study area through Landsat TM and ETM+ images, to ascertain the number, extend and relationships among those physiographic forms. Multitemporal remote sensing analysis is carried out through different date TM scenes, to find out sites that present active processes of erosion, siltation or otherwise. 830 J. Yagüe & P. García 1.1 Coastal landforms inventories and remote sensing Coastal landforms inventories are closely related to the complex subject of classification and nomenclature of coasts (3). This case study does not attempt to resolve the problem but it is aware of the various criteria under which the survey could have been structured either attending to the defined structure of South East Australian estuaries (4) (5), focussing onto the specific characteristics of Australian coastal depositional environments (6) or onto geological strata (7). Furthermore, a coastal landform survey must not obviate the elements that conform the development processes of these formations: hydrothermal changes in the strata (8), sea surface temperatures, ocean fronts, near shore seasonal currents and tides, bay and river effluents, tidal boundaries, estuarine fronts and circulation, salinity, chlorophyll contents, sediment transport and budget, submerged aquatic vegetation, etc. In short, the analysis of the ocean-land interface is a complex multi-factorial task, anywhere around the world. In short, the description of local coastal landform made below does not follow a defined standard criterion, but it deals with each form in an individual way in so far as it can be easily recognised with the proposed analysis method. It is rather rewarding to see the advances made in the use of Landsat imagery for coastal applications since Johnson and Munday (9) noted in 1983, the lack of operational coastal programmes that use satellite data for mapping. Some coastal wetland classification has been done experimentally with the Skylab photographs. The use of Landsat data is extensive but generally still in the experimental phase, with coastal marshes being the most studied. At present, remote observation agencies, programmes and environmental watch Administrations (Landsat, NOAA (10), Spot; ESA & EEA in the EU, and the CSRIO in Australia) do have well defined coastal protection action plans including remote observation from satellites. 1.2 Predominant costal landforms in the study area The most relevant local coastal landforms are the ruling directional embayments, coastal lagoon systems together with associated swamps and bogs and the massive dual barrier belts. A succinct description of each unit may help the reading of results. The embayments are long wide-open coastal alignments with turning points ruled by hard rock volcanic outcrops. The sequence is as follows (S to N): (i) the Newcastle Bight embayment between the Hunter River mouth and Port Stephens Bay; (ii) the Fens embayment running form Yacaaba Head (northern head of Port Stephens Bay) to Dark Point, parallel to the lower Myall River, the (iii) Erunderee embayment that encloses two back-dune lakes (Bombah Broadwater and Boolambyte) between the said Dark Point and Big Gibber headland; (vi) the Seal Rocks embayment runs between the latter headland and the rocky Seal Rocks promontory; (v) Charlotte embayment follows, up to the homonymous hard outcrop; finally (vii) Elizabeth embayment houses the seven mile beach up to cape Hawke, near Forster Tuncurry. Coastal lagoons enclosed by sand barriers are the most striking physiographic features within the embayments. Lagoons vary in size and shape depending on proximity to bedrock and relationship to barrier systems (11); namely, North to South, the lagoons are: (i) Wallis lake, (ii) Smith’s lake and (iii) the interlinked system of Myall, Boolambyte and Bombah Broadwater lakes flowing through the lower Myall River onto Port Stephens bay. (i) Wallis Lake is permanently open to the ocean at Forster Tuncurry and it is the largest lagoon body considered in this study with 73 km2. Up to 13 tributary creeks drain to the lake conforming a complex estuary. Tidal ranges affect significantly the dynamics of the lake: The mean spring tidal range at Greenhill Point within Wallis Lake is 0.3 m while the equivalent range at the entrance, some 10 km downstream, is 1.5 m. Generally, tidal gradients within Forster Inlet indicate hydraulic losses being uniformly spread along the length of the inlet. The mean level of Wallis Lake is typically super-elevated 0.13 m above mean sea level. The tributary Wollamba River is tidal for 30 km from the ocean. Human activities and pressure on the lagoon are much higher than in the other lagoons. Oyster and prawn farming are major economic activities and thus red algal blooms are a feared hazard, which also A Landsat TM and ETM+survey of quaternary coastal landforms in the central coast of NSW 831 affects protected sea grass areas (12). Remote sensing of lake dynamics is a formal task of local authorities. (ii) Smith’s Lake, just south of Wallis, spans over 11 km2. It is enclosed from the Pacific Ocean by a narrow and fairly inconsistent sand spit that opens up to the ocean almost seasonally with the strong summer storms. Hence, water is brackish to nearly salty; depending on the time span the barrier may be closed. Siltation in this lagoon presents two different scenarios: the western borders receive continental clayey debris allowing shrub and tree swamps, while the eastern end of the lagoon is silted by sands.
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