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Climbers Wanted
18 Climbers wanted By the mid to late 1980s, the nature of the Melbourne mountaineering community had changed quite considerably from that of 1980, when Tim Hughes had applied for the permit for Everest in 1988 on behalf of the southern Australian section of the New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC). In 1980, the idea was simple: the small, closely knit core of Melbourne climbers would continue to build their base of Himalayan experience until they were ready to mount a lightweight attempt on the South Col route on Everest. As described previously, those aspirations became inextricably bound up with the plans of the Army Alpine Association (AAA) for their attempt on Everest in 1988. Even had that not been the case, however, the original idea of the Melbourne- based Everest expedition would have had to change significantly simply because of attrition to the group through the 1980s. The driving force for the early expeditions to Dharamsura, Changabang and Nanda Devi was undoubtedly the trio of Peter Allen, Mike Rheinberger and Andrew Rothfield. (Rothfield had left the climbing scene in 1981, before Nanda Devi.) Rheinberger, of course, was one of the most prolific of Australian Himalayan climbers throughout the decade. Allen, too, had considerable Himalayan experience, as he had taken part in the 1983 AAA Nilgiri North climb and the 1985 New Zealand Everest expedition in addition to the earlier Dharamsura and Changabang trips. He had also climbed Denali in 1981. Allen, however, although one of the strongest potential Everest participants on the civilian side, opted out of an active climbing role in the Australian Bicentennial Everest Expedition (ABEE) as he had just married, thereby acquiring a young family, and judged that the multiple trips through the Khumbu Icefall would be too risky. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Epilogue The period 1975–90 was indeed a formative and unique period in Australian Himalayan climbing. Chapter 29 looked forward from 1990 and foreshadowed some significant shifts in the nature of mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia that would mark 1990 as a turning point. Now, 20 years later, many of those projections of change have developed into well-established trends. Perhaps the most dominant of all the trends has been the move to commercial expeditions. In the 1970s and 1980s, most Himalayan expeditions were largely do- it-yourself affairs—from initial planning, obtaining a permit and organising the equipment to planning the logistics and arranging the transport from Australia. And all of this time-consuming work was expended before the team even reached Asia and began the walk into the hills to eventually tackle the mountain. From the last decade of the twentieth century there has been a pronounced shift to commercial expeditions. For example, in a survey of Australian Himalayan mountaineering for the period 2001–03, nearly half of the expeditions covered (16 of 33) were commercial.1 The trend is probably due to the rising wealth in general of Australians coupled with the increasing time constraints as contemporary society becomes faster paced, allowing less time for planning and organisation. In addition, the Himalayan region has become more accessible and the number of commercial operators in the big mountains has grown sharply. Two contrasting styles of commercial expedition are important to distinguish. At one extreme lies the fully guided expedition, in which the client is completely taken care of—from armchair to summit. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
24 Master of all trades One could be forgiven for thinking that Australian climbers have a fixation on Mt Everest. Over the years until 1990, Australians had been members of nine Everest expeditions, while the other 13 of the world’s 8000 m peaks had been attempted by only 15 expeditions with at least one Australian member. There are occasional references in the mountaineering literature to Australians’ fixation on Everest and from time to time climbers have been heard to mutter something to the effect that ‘when Australians finally get over their obsession with Everest, then you’ll really see something in the Himalaya’. Indeed, even the structure of this book has emphasised the role of Everest ascents and attempts in the history of Australian mountaineering in the Himalaya. Although it is convenient organisationally to consider the earlier climbs of the major players in Australian Everest expeditions as lead-ups to Everest, it should be reiterated that many of these trips were not designed specifically as training climbs for Everest but were undertaken as worthy objectives in their own right. In many cases, the climbers involved had, at the time, no more than a vague notion that one day they would like to have a go at Everest and certainly had no definite Everest commitments. For example, Jon Muir’s expedition to Changabang in 1982 with the International Turkey Patrol (Chapter 19) and his trips to Gangotri in the mid-1980s (Chapter 20) were not simply training climbs for subsequent Everest attempts, and the expeditions to Dunagiri (Chapters 6 and 7) and Ama Dablam (Chapter 9) of which Tim Macartney-Snape and Lincoln Hall were members were undertaken before they had even obtained a booking for their 1984 attempt on Everest. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Images Image 2.1. George Finch (right) and Geoffrey Bruce at base camp, following their attempt on Mt Everest in 1922. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 185 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 2.2. The oxygen apparatus, invented by George Finch, used on the 1922 and subsequent Everest expeditions. Photo courtesy of the Royal Geographical Society 186 IMAGES Image 2.3. George Finch on the 1922 Everest expedition, wearing the down-filled jacket that he invented. Photo from the Finch collection, first published in Finch (1924) 187 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.1. Surveying on the southern source of the Lolofond Glacier, Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. Grahame Budd (left) and Geoff Bratt, using the theodolite Photo by Keith Miller Image 3.2. Members of the Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. From left, back row: Keith Miller, Brian Amos, Peter Grimley, Eric Shipton Front row: Geoff Bratt, Chris Gravina, Roger Cratchley Photo by Grahame Budd 188 IMAGES Image 3.3. Jon Stephenson surveying on the 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, accompanied by Ishmael, a Balti high altitude porter. Photo provided by Jon Stephenson 189 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.4. Descending K12, 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, Pakistan. Photo by Jon Stephenson 190 IMAGES Image 3.5. Geoff Wayatt traversing across the “Wall of Shadows”, north face of Jannu, Nepal,1975. Photo provided by Geoff Waya 191 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Image 3.6. Geoff Wayatt at camp three on the north face of Jannu, Nepal, 1975. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt 192 IMAGES Image 4.1a. : Young Australian climbers on an instructional course in New Zealand in 1965 based at Ball Hut, near Mt Cook: practising (a) river crossing, and (b) crevasse rescue. -
456 19 - 25 June 2009 16 Pages Rs 30
#456 19 - 25 June 2009 16 pages Rs 30 Weekly Internet Poll # 456 Q. Which of these phrases best describe your current feeling about the delay in government formation? Total votes: 3,521 Weekly Internet Poll # 456. To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com Q. Cabinet expansion still stuck. Your comment: HIGH AND DRY: Ama Dablam towers above the Imja Valley in Khumbu last week as rainless pre-monsoon weeks offered spectacular views. ALEX TREADWAY and a deteriorating law and on Saturday is seen as significant order situation, Rawal has his as New Delhi tries to use its work cut out. leverage to end the prolonged Fresh start NC-nominated CA member political deadlock over Nilambar Acharya says he is government formation. Menon is ne month after being However, ministers appointed encouraged because this is a expected to urge elected prime minister by without portfolios two weeks ago civilian cabinet with members the Madhesi EDITORIAL p2 O parliament, Madhav finally got their assignments that believe in democracy. parties to join a Kumar Nepal was still not able with the UML’s Bhim Rawal at “There is no one in it with consensus Civilian parties to complete his cabinet the helm of guns,” he told Nepali Times. government. His expansion despite the induction the key Maoist CA member Hari visit may also have a bearing on of 10 new ministers on Home Roka is not so positive: “They the Maoist Politburo meeting Wednesday. Ministry. are all people who have lost where a hardline faction Nepal has still not been able Analysts elections, so they are advocating confrontation is to convince the MJF, TMLP and say with accountable to their parties and facing a more pragmatic, SP to join. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Acknowledgments There are many people to whom I owe much in the preparation of this book. First, there are Australia’s Himalayan climbers themselves, who have spent much time telling me their stories. Those with whom I talked—either in person or over the telephone—with whom I corresponded or who commented on early drafts of the manuscript include Brian Agnew, Peter Allen, Don Baldwin, Ken Baldwin, Paul Bayne, Geof Bartram, Austin Brookes, Dorothy Brown, Dot Butler, John Cashman, Jonathan Chester, Greg Child, Peter Cocker, Steve Colman, Pat Cullinan, Warwick Deacock, Michael Dillon, John Finnigan, Jo Flood, Peter Gration, Michael Groom, Lincoln Hall, Andy Henderson, Graeme Hill, Theo Hooy, Richard Howes, Peter Lambert, Mark Lemaire, Geoff Little, Tim Macartney-Snape, Roddy Mackenzie, Terry McCullagh, Rob Mitchell, Colin Monteath, Rick Moor, Peter Morris, Greg Mortimer, Brigitte Muir, Jon Muir, Bill Packard, Phil Pitham, Colin Putt, John Retchford, Michael Rheinberger, Andrew Rothfield, Ben Sandilands, Fritz Schaumburg, James Strohfeldt, Jim Truscott, Jim van Gelder, Ray Vran, John Wanless, Geoff Wayatt and Zac Zaharias. The following climbers provided the photographs reproduced in this book: Peter Allen, Ken Baldwin, Dorothy Brown, Graham Budd, Warwick Deacock, Michael Groom, Tim Macartney-Snape, Brigitte Muir, Jon Stephenson, Geoff Wayatt and Zac Zaharias. Special thanks go to Zac Zaharias, who has carefully compiled the tables of Australian Himalayan climbing that appear in the appendix at the end of this book. These tables represent the most complete, up-to-date record of Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia. Furthermore, I am grateful to Wild magazine for their permission to use in these tables information that first appeared in Wild. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Appendix: Record of Australian mountaineering in the Himalaya Zac Zaharias Table 1 Australian Himalayan climbs, 1922–2009 (based on surveys in Wild magazine) Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1922 Mt Everest George Finch, member Unsuccessful . Finch First serious attempt (8850 m) of 11-man British and Geoffrey Bruce on Mt Everest . N Ridge/Face, expedition reached 8350 m using Australian Finch Tibet supplementary oxygen . climbed higher than any other human had previously climbed . Finch proved that supplementary oxygen could definitely benefit climbers . 1957 Exploratory Geoffrey Bratt and Explored in Siachen Exploratory trip expedition, Grahame Budd, Glacier area . Climbed mounted by Karakoram, members of eight-man Towitz Peak (6400 m) Imperial College Pakistan British expedition led and Island Peak Mountaineering by Eric Shipton (6860 m). Club . 1960 K12 (7470 m) Jon Stephenson, Unsuccessful . Stephenson first NW Ridge, member of four-man Stephenson climbed Australian to climb Karakoram, British expedition with porter to 6640 m to 7000 m without Pakistan and solo to 7000 m . supplementary oxygen . 1963 Langtang II Peter Taylor Successful . Climbed Sometimes cited (6583 m) E Face, with four Sherpas . as first Australian Central Nepal Probably shortest-ever expedition to Himalayan expedition . Himalaya; however, Four days from road to Taylor was an base camp; five days itinerant British to climb mountain . geologist stationed in Australia for a few years . 1975 Jannu (7710 m) Geoff Wayatt, Unsuccessful . High Wayatt first N Face, Eastern member of 12-man point reached: 7360 m . Australian on Nepal New Zealand ‘modern’ expedition . expedition led by He and Jim Strang Peter Farrell overcame major obstacle of route with bold, alpine- style assault . -
Mike Farris Everest Injury Report
17 March 2014 www.TheAltitudeExperience.com/everestreport.pdf Page 1 of 7 Mike Farris Everest Injury Report The latest version of this report is available at the address above. More details about the South Col climbing route can be found at www.alanarnette.com. Please send any comments or corrections to [email protected]. The Narrative presents my story as I perceived events at the moment and as events have been described to me by other individuals. I will comment on a number of issues in the Analysis. A Timeline can be found at the end which describes additional activity concerning this incident. A list of individuals who helped me can be found after the Analysis; many thanks to all. Original report: September 2009 Addendum: March 2014 Background I am a (as of 2009) 53-year-old climber from the USA. I began rock climbing in 1975, ice climbing in 1977, alpine climbing in 1977, and my 2009 Everest attempt was my sixth expedition to an 8000m peak. In 2008 my book The Altitude Experience: Successful Trekking and Climbing Above 8,000 Feet was published. My goal was to climb the 1953 South Col route (Nepal side) without guides, without teammates, and without Sherpa support. I would use bottled oxygen on summit day only. I used both Base Camp and Advance Base Camp facilities provided by Altitude Junkies. I used the fixed ropes on the mountain (and paid my share of the costs). Narrative On May 19, 2009 I arrived at upper Camp 3 (~7200m) and chopped a tent site. -
Mount Everest by Climbers, News
Everest - Mount Everest by climbers, news http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18602 [everest] [K2] [oceans] [poles] [space] [tech] [weather] [statistics] [medical] [SPANISH] SEARCH Home Latest News ExWeb special: Himalaya fall season kick-off with a Expedition List Web TV huge spring flashback 10:45 am CDT Aug 24, 2009 Navigation (MountEverest.net) Charging head over heels into the Pakistan summer season we never Everest Survival Kit really wrapped the spring in Nepal. With a brand new fall list of expeditions in the The Dream works for this week (pls email us if you're going), let's take a look at where we left off Point Zero last. Ground Work People Here goes an extensive spring 2009 Everest Surviving & Himalaya climbing end report compiled by Oxygen Rodrigo Granzotto Peron. The Climb Everest & Himalaya spring 2009 Season´s Links end Chronicle Mountain Tech by Rodrigo Granzotto Peron 1 – GENERAL OVERVIEW OF THE Community SEASON Newsletters Turmoil and manifestations connected to the 50th anniversary of Dalai Lama's exile once again threw Beijing into erratic behavior, with its authorities issuing diffuse rules for mountaineers. Granting permit to some, refusing others; the ExplorersWeb file image of climber high above the procedure forced change of plans for climbers clouds reflecting on his recent Everest summit. such as Andrew Lock who gave up his attempt to scale Everest and Shisha Pangma. The mess led several climbers to the supercrowded Nepali Flank and even north Related Links side regulars, like Himex, went south this Previous - Season's end preliminary 2009 year. Karakoram climbing report The season started in tears, with the death of Piotr Morawski (POL) in early April, and ended in melancholy, with the death of Dennis Verhoeve (HOL) in June. -
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990
Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990 Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990 Will Steffen THE AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY E P R E S S E P R E S S Published by ANU E Press The Australian National University Canberra ACT 0200, Australia Email: [email protected] This title is also available online at: http://epress.anu.edu.au/himalayan_citation.html National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication entry Author: Steffen, Will. Title: Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990. ISBN: 9781921666162 (pbk.) 9781921666179 (pdf) Notes: Includes bibliographical references. Subjects: Mountaineering --Himalaya Mountains--History. Mountaineers--Australia. Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) Other Authors/Contributors: Will Steffen Dewey Number: 796.522095496 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. Cover design and layout by ANU E Press Front cover image: John Finnigan and Theo Hooy at the base of the west face of Baruntse, 1988. Photo by Ken Baldwin Author Photo: Carrie Steffen Back cover: Greg Mortimer on the summit of Mt Everest, 1984. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape Printed by Griffin Press This edition © 2010 ANU E Press Contents Preface . .vii Terminology . ix Explanatory notes . xi Acknowledgments . xiii Part 1: Deep history—the early days 1 . Unlikely mountaineers . 1 2 . An outspoken Australian . 7 3 . Quiet years . 25 4 . The killing hills . 37 Part 2: On top—first major Aussie triumphs 5 .