APRIL 2019 EUROPE'S LEADING MAGAZINE FOR LESBIANS & BI WOMEN Kehlani Melissa Etheridge Rosie Jones Adele Roberts SEYCHELLES THE DISTILLERY Carrie Lyell explores queer life The world’s first 86 in this beautiful archipelago 90 boutique gin hotel TRAVEL PICTURE-PERFECT 86 SEYCHELLES PHOTO CREATIVE COMMONS PHOTO 85 Gaychellesy AS THE SEYCHELLES LOOKS TO WELCOME LGBTQI TRAVELLERS AND CASH IN THE PINK POUND, CARRIE LYELL HEADS TO THIS ISLAND PARADISE TO FIND OUT JUST HOW QUEER-FRIENDLY IT IS 86 APRIL 2019 TRAVEL | SEYCHELLES Have you ever seen a rainbow from centre woman. Equally, the boys on “prickly purse”. Mother nature loves an aeroplane? It’s quite something. the trip with me did not once feel the a lol. Coming in to land in the Seychelles need to modify or mask their behav- Hot and sweaty from hiking on the main island of Mahé, after two iour. I think I speak for all of us when around the forest, we head to what long flights with a stranger’s elbow in I say we felt very at home at Eden our guide tells us is the most beautiful my face for most of the way, I take it Bleu and able to express ourselves as beach in Seychelles, and though I’m as a sign of what’s to come, and I’m we would back in the UK. I certainly hardly an expert after 24 hours, I’d excited for what’s in store in what I’m wouldn’t have any qualms about have to agree: it’s pretty gorge. The officially declaring Gaychelles. checking-in here with my wife or a greenest palms, the whitest sand group of gal pals. and the clearest water: it’s as if we’ve SEY YOU’LL BE THERE Bellies full, we pile back into a asked Alexa to conjure up heaven on It’s a super short drive from the golf buggy for another hair-raising Earth. I’ve been to some beaches in airport to our home for the week- ride, narrowly avoiding certain death my time, but this is next level stuff. end, the stunning Eden Bleu Hotel on more than one occasion. Note to A quick swim and a million selfies (edenbleu.com). Situated on a reclaimed self: learn to drive. later, we get back in the car to catch coral reef, 200 metres from the main another ferry, this time to La Digue, island, we make our way through the the third most populated island in the exquisite grounds to our luxury villa, It’s as if we’ve asked Alexa Seychelles, and home to what we’re where we’ll be spending the next told is the most photographed beach few days. in the world, Anse Source d’Argent. I’m giddy as a baby gay at a to conjure up heaven on A slap-up lunch and a few Hayley Kiyoko concert as I choose Seybrews later, we jump on our which of the six bedrooms I’d like, Earth…” bikes – the main means of transpor- before settling on a pool terrace room, tation here on La Digue – in search which is absolutely gorgeous. Pulling of the giant tortoises that call this back the curtains to see the view for PARADISE ISLANDS island home. We stumble upon these the first time, I could almost do a cry. It’s an early start the next morning to majestic beasts, which are only found I was expecting paradise, yes, but I’m catch the ferry to Praslin, the second in the Seychelles and the Galápagos, still overwhelmed by its beauty. largest island in the Seychelles, and in L’Union Estate, and it’s a wonderful After a quick shower to get rid of it’s worth it for the incredible sunrise. experience feeding our new friends. the smell of a million airports, I melt On the hour-long journey, we spot We wave goodbye to these rad into the private infinity pool, and glides of flying fish and try to stay reptiles and head beachwards, where swim my worries away underneath upright as our catamaran bumps its we’re all left a little speechless by the the warm Seychelles sun. way across the Indian Ocean. It’s a bit famous Anse Source d’Argent. Here, like being on the tube but, you know, majestic palms and granite boulders FOOL IN THE RAIN a lot less awful. meet shallow emerald waters, and we The heavens open not long after, but A 10 minute drive from the ferry find a cool spot in the shade to chill we decide to brave the monsoon and port is Vallée de Mai, a nature reserve for a bit before exploring this gor- head to the hotel restaurant for din- and UNESCO World Heritage site in geous stretch of coast. ner. One terror-filled golf buggy ride the heart of Praslin. Described as a later, we arrive soaked to the skin, but “slice of Eden”, this ancient palm MAHÉ GIRL the staff are on hand with warm wel- forest is dedicated to conservation, Back on the main island of Mahé, comes and towels – and don’t laugh research and education, and is home we head into the capital, Victoria, for too much at us for forgetting to put to many unique species of plants and a spot of souvenir shopping in the the buggy’s rain cover down. animals, including the black parrot, market before spending an hour wan- We soon dry off over cocktails and and the famous coco de mer palm – dering around the Botanical Gardens a delightful menu, specially prepared the symbol of the Seychelles – one of (bgci.org), home to many endemic for this gaggle of gay journos. Our only two places in the world where species including the deckenia nobilis bouches are amused with millionaire this delightfully vulva-esque “double – cabbage palm – and the phoenico- salad with confit octopus and cala- coconut” grows in its natural state. phorium sechellarum or thief palm. mansi dressing, before tucking into I try to be mature, really I do, but it We also see several plants on the a seafood bouillabaisse starter with all goes to pot when I come across a International Union for Conservation garlic toast, and a red snapper main of Nature’s “red list” of threatened served with mussel ragout, grilled species, meet some HUGE fruit bats prawns and breadfruit croquette. and even huger tortoises. Finally, dessert: a chocolate delight. Hot and thirsty, we make our way And was it ever. to Takamaka, a craft rum distill- As for our gayness? All of the ery on the other side of the island hotel staff were unflinching in the (takamakarum.com). One ice-cold, face of our faggy fabulousness and rum-based cocktail later, our guide butch brilliance, and at no point did I shows us round and talks through PHOTOS CARRIE LYELL, EDEN BLEU, EIVIND HANSEN feel uncomfortable as a masculine of the process of making the spirit. >>> 87 >>> We also learn a little about the “Everybody knows everybody, so this on the road to same-sex marriage, part slavery has played in shap- SEYCHELLES is the main problem. For me, it was no which is not yet legal. Says Fabi: “We ing the island’s identity on this, the BY NUMBERS problem coming out [to my family]. I do attack the Catholic Church a lot site of a former plantation. An 1827 The Seychelles is don’t know for others.” on issues such as adultery, people census revealed the population of the an archipelago in “We try not to get into the public divorcing and remarrying, illegitimate Seychelles consisted of 6,638 slaves the Indian Ocean eye because whenever we do there’s birth. In Seychelles, 80% of children to 685 “masters”, and while slavery made up of 115 a lot of negative attention,” Fabi, who born are outside of marriage. Teenage was finally abolished eight years later, granite and coral is co-founder and chairperson of the pregnancy is out of control. A woman its legacy remains after almost 200 islands. organisation tells me. “Those who are having five children by four, five dif- years, evident in the various cuisines, against it are really, really loud, and ferent fathers? Completely normal. So place names and languages spoken. The country gained you can’t shout over them. So what if they’re not speaking up about those “Seychelles is the ultimate rainbow independence we do, we try to influence policies issues, then why particularly target nation” our guide tells us. It’s a view from the UK in behind the scenes. This year, we had this one?” shared by many, with the country 1976. input in the national youth policy. We With a long way to go before today described as a “fusion of people The Seychelles also have input in the anti-bullying queer people are fully embraced by and cultures”. has three official policy. We try to influence policy and Seychellois society, how do they feel languages: policy makers, and have conversa- about their country extending an GAYCHELLES? English, French tions with people that can understand invitation to queer travellers? “Part of After just a few days here, I’m a little and Seychellois where we are coming from, instead our advocacy is to make the business bit in love with this island paradise. Creole. of trying to engage the wider public, case for decriminalising same-sex But how idyllic is it for queer folks? because they do not have a grasp on marriage,” Fabi says.