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Physical Oceanography of Humboldt

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Physical Oceanography of Humboldt CUINR-R-82-047 C. 2 THEPHYSICAL OCEAXOCRAPHY OF HUMBOLDT BAY Steven L Costa Dept.of Oceanography HumboldtState Uni versity Areata, CA 9SS21 and Dept.of Oceanography andOcean engineering FloridaInstitute of Technology AIelbourne, FL 92901 Preface It is this deficiencyin communicationsthat this sym- posiumaddresses. The fact that the symposium, at least JohnIsaacs had a marvelousgrasp of the problems in part, resultsfrom work JohnIsaacs supported and involvingall aspectsof marinescience. He wasa man encouragedis appropriateand rewarding. who did not ignorethe practicalitiesof life. He wasat onetime a commercialsalmon fisherman in Oregonand ultim.":elybecame one of theforemost oceanographers lntroducti on in moderntimes. This direction to hislife's work was spurredpartly because the scientific community could It isthe purpose of thispaper to brieflyoutline the not answerhis incisive questions about the sea in which majorfeatures of physicaloceanography of Humboldt heworked. That he recognized the problem at which Bay. Particularattention is paidto whatis known thissymposium isultimately aimed is demonstrated by aboutthe bay rather than presenting a compendium of the followingremarks taken from his introductionto "studiesthat should bedone". Hopefully, this may be thefirst volume of theSea Grant report series: ofvalue to those requiring answers orsolutions topar- ticularquestions and problems. Reference is made to "Thereare great and ever-growing funds of manyof the studies and data collection efforts presently scientificand technicalknowledge and un- availableto aid thoserequiring information based on derstandingof humankind and the planet. One thebest avialable data. A consciouseffort is madeto of themost active is theunderstanding of the avoidthe academic "insufficient data" syndrome. sea,of humaninfluence upon it, andof op- portunitiesfor human bettermentfrom its Considerationsof the physical oceanography of an resources. estuarineor lagoonalsystem involve many interactions "Knowledgeand understandingof the whichtend to bequite complex. It isconvenient to ar- oceansencompass the span between the broadly tificiallysegment the discussions intothree main areas; fundamentaland the sharplypractical. This thedriving forces acting on the system, the processes widerange of knowledgeof the seaclearly throughwhich the system responds, and finally the possessesgreat potential for importantguid- responsesof the system to thedriving forces. Each of anceof thedirections of humanactivities. Yet its these,and each of theindividual topics within these tnfluencehas been less than its potential. Most majorgroupings, must be viewed within the framework legislativeand regulatoryactions have been lit- of thephysical setting, geometric characteristics, and tle influencedby what is knownabout the sea geomorphologyof thesystem. andreflect a failureof theresearch scientist, the publicand those in industryand government to The scopeof thispaper is obviouslytoo limitedto communicate. presentevery aspect of the bay and the processesaf- "This failure of communicationbetween the fectingit. Onlythose topics considered of primary im- scientistand the public is not restrictedto portance will be addressedbelow. Other areas of marine science,of cottrse,but it is common in "secondary"importance will bementioned where ap- manyfields. It thusbecomes vital to develop propriatebut a detailedpresentation would not add sub- insight into the complexitiesof this fun- stantiallyto thepurposes of this presentation. damentaland generalproblem of our times,to engagein thoughtfullydesigned experiments, andto encourageand nurture ideas that may Morphology of the 8ay grow into meaningful bridges of com- municationacross the gulf that now cleavesac- The general morphologicalcharacteristics of Hum tion from understanding." boldtBay make it a ratherunique estuarine system. It is best described as a multi-basin coastal lagoon with limitedfreshwater input. The entirebay covers about IN: Proceedings, Humboldt Bay ~s Eureka, Gal i fornia I saacs/Kerstet ter; R/CZ-lt7! 90 squarekilometers at high tide 5 squaremiles! and from the NOS tables, but should be viewed as about 29 squarekilometers at low tide 8 squaremiles!. illustrative only and not exact. Approximately 70 percent of the bay consists of tidal mud flats exposedat low ~ater cut by a complexsystem A number of tide stationshave been occupied in the of channels. Only the EntranceBay portion of the bay bay at varioustimes. Much of this data is quite recent remains constant in surface area over a tidal cycle. 977-1982!. The reference datums and elevations of Table I details the geometricproperties of various por- these stations are shown in Table II. Note that theseare tions of the bay. Thereexists a setof aerialphotographs final datumsas received by the NationalOcean Survey taken in connection with a Sea Grant project at Hum- NOS!rather than the preliminarydatums previously boldt StateUniversity HSU! that graphicallyshow the published for exampleby Shapiro Associates!. The variations in bay area and shoreline at various tidal locationsof thesestations are shownin Figure 3. Ad- stands. ditional tidal data have beenrecorded by investigators at Humboldt State University in connection with Sea Due to the nature of the morphologyof the bay it is Grant and U,S. Army Corpsof Engineersprojects generally divided into several distinct areas. The nomenclature usually ascribed to the basins and chan- nels is presentedin Figure 1. South Bay and Entrance The noted increase in tidal range at locations in the Bay are more-or-lessdirectly connectedby a very short bay are also reflectedin historicaldata. The tide range channel. Arcata Bay communicateswith EntranceBay, appearsto haveincreased through time. This may well by the relatively long North Bay Channel, which bifur- be a reflectionof the effectsof navigationchannel im- catesat the north end. Oneof thesebranches splits once provement in the bay. Deepening these channels more Eureka Channel! around Woodley Island. The decreasesthe frictional resistanceto tidal flows. There bay is separatedfrom the seaby two long sandspits and is also someevidence of responseof meantide level to is connected to the ocean by the twin-jettied Entrance changesin sealevel during the last 70 years. Channelapproximately 1829 meters in length000 feet! and 671 meters wide 200 feet! at the seawardend. -Waves- Driving Forces The entrance to Humboldt Bay has undergone -Tides- significant modification during the last century as a result of improvements to the harbor for navigation Humboldt Bay is a tidally driven coastal lagoon, thus purposes. Becauseof the high wave energy climate in one of the major considerations here must be a the region, waves are one of the major driving forces af- somewhat detailed summary of the tidal characteristics fecting the entrance and the immediately adjacent in- of the system. This bay is well described as an in- terior portions of the bay. Offshore wave data for the terconnected series of three distict shallow basins. This region are generally limited to that provided by hindcast compartmentalized nature of the bay results in relatively techniques. However, such data sets are still of great complex tidal responses. Simple descriptions of the value in assessing the role of waves in the evolution and tides will not suffice for many purposes and operation of the bay entrance. sophisticated data processing techniques are often required to gain a better understanding of the dynamics The Pacific northwest experiencesthe most severe of the bay. Such detailed treatment will not be dealt wave conditions, on an annual basis, in the continental with in this paper, but potential and necessary ap- United States. For the California coastline there exist plications will be pointed out. two hindcastdata sets. Until a fewyears ago the only data availablefor usewere those developed by National Marine Consultantsfor the Army Corpsof Engineers. This bay is characterized by mixed semi-diurnal tides These statistics were based on a three year hindcast which generally increasein amplitude with distance analysis 956-58! of synoptic weathermaps. More away from the entrance. Phase lags correlated with recently a far more extended data base was constructed distance from the entrance are also observed. Figure 2 for the California Dept. of Navigation and Ocean shows typical tidal elevation curves within the bay. Development by Meteorology International In- Figure 3 illustrates the variations of tidal elevations corporated based on the 'U.S, Navy Fleet Numerical . within the bay. This figure was constructed from recen- Weather Control singular wave analysis. Thesedata are tly obtained tidal data and is not taken from the provided for six deep water stations off the California published tide tables, which are only approximations. coast and are basedon the 24-year period from 1951-74. The corresponding relation with phase e.g. time of high At the presenttime thereis an ongoingdata collection and low water! is not readily available at this writing. effort by the Stateof California and the Army Corpsof Figure 3 shows the differences in phase as obtained Engineers to provide a coastalwave data base. 0CD N CL Ch D OO 0 «C $71 LL. 0 L 0 Z Z O 4l 0 I CD Q. Ch CD «C CU Z L Z W OCI X CD 0 Z K0 X 0 0 0 D «C LA C! CLI OO LA -N IZ I I I I- CG N N NN CD C3 U LL UJ OIDO R~R N I- ~ CO, «C I I O CQ hh I- IU N ~ Cl Ul I I I LJ 4 4 lK 0 I- UJ IU Z X ID OO ~ I I CD N lA hh W WhhlAW O CI. O Ul CK RAM CV W W CD CS CP CP IU Z Z Z IU CD CZ: aU K K I CD IK Cg CS L9 E cC EL Z Z Z Z Z CUK K 0 QC CK IK ZW V W IL O. IL I- Z «C: 0 CS Z C/l CO CA Q I- IL Z 0 K CL A Ul Ul Cl! COBY EEK SALMONCREEK 7 6 C! cK I- LLJ w 4 32 ct I- 24 28 T I ME IN HOuR S Meantide curve, South Jetty, Humboldt Bay, CA after U.S. Army Corpsof E ngineers,l976!. 3.0 I .0 O 0 w -I.OO id ~ -2.00 -3.004.006.00 B.OOIO.OO I200 I4,00. I600I B.OO20.0022.00 24.00 T I ME I I4 HOURS Typicaltide curves ot the extremeends of HumboldtBay, CA afterCosta, Stork, Diebel and Landsteiner,I981!.
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