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Lake District 2 228 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Many thanks to the travellers who used Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, the last edition and wrote to us with Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated helpful hints, useful advice and interest- World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate ing anecdotes: Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System B Marje Beckett N Kate Nicholson Sciences, 11, 1633 44. W Lorayne Woodend Cover photograph: Small boat at dawn by Wastwater, Cumbria. George Kavanagh/ AUTHOR THANKS Getty ©. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Oliver Berry Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com. A big thanks to everyone who helped me on this book, especially the dedicated park workers, tourist offi ce staff , publicans, brewers, jam-makers, chefs, hikers, bikers and volunteers whom I met along the way. Back home, thanks to Susie, Mo and Gracie, to TSP, and to the Hobo for constant com- panionship on the road. Thanks to my twin CEs Glenn van der Knijff and Katie O’Connell, to the map-makers and editors in Melbourne, and anyone else I’ve criminally overlooked here. 229 Coordinating Cartogra- Assisting Cartographers THIS BOOK Jacqueline Nguyen Ildiko Bogdanovits, Jennifer This 2nd edition of Lonely pher Johnston, Jolyon Philcox Planet’s Lake District guidebook Coordinating Layout was researched and written by Designer Paul Queripel Cover Research Naomi Oliver Berry. The previous Managing Editors Helen Parker edition was also written by Oliver Christinis, Brigitte Ellemor Internal Image Research Berry. This guidebook was Senior Editor Susan Aude Vauconsant commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Paterson Amanda Jones Indexer SCENES THE BEHIND London office, laid out by Managing Cartographers Cambridge Publishing Adrian Persoglia, Amanda Sierp Thanks to Ryan Evans, Trent Management, UK, and produced Managing Layout Paton, Gerard Walker by the following: Designer Jane Hart Commissioning Editors Assisting Editors Justin Katie O’Connell, Glenn van der Flynn, Chris Girdler, Kathryn Knijff Glendenning, Ceinwen Sinclair Coordinating Editors Catherine Burch, Andrea Dobbin 232 Armitt Museum 59 breweries 54, 129, 208, 209 arts, see galleries, literature, music Hawkshead Brewery 55 art galleries, see galleries Jennings Brewery 128 Arts & Crafts movement 52, 84 Bridge House 59 Ashness Bridge 132 Brockhole Visitor Centre 45 ATMs 15 Brougham Castle 175, 24 Brougham Hall 175 B budget 14 B&Bs 212 bus travel 221, 223-4 Back O’ Skiddaw 124-5 bushcraft 96 bakeries 178, 207-8 bushwalking, see hiking Bardsea 159 business hours 214-15 A Barrow-in-Furness 159 Buttermere 10, 130, 134-6, 130, 10 abbeys, see churches Bassenthwaite Lake 123-4 Abbot Hall Art Gallery 182-3 Bathrooms 32 C accommodation 212-14, see also Beacon, The 160 cafes 179, 207 individual locations Beatrix Potter Gallery 91 Caldbeck 124 children 31 beer, see ales Campbell, Donald 53, 85, 86 green guesthouses 73 bicycle travel, see cycling Campbell, Sir Malcolm 53, 86 remote hostels 13, 111, 124, 13 Birdoswald Roman Fort 174 camping 212, 213, 214 activities 16, 26-30, see also birds 201-2, see also birdwatching camping barns 212-13 individual activities Bassenthwaite ospreys 123, 191, canoeing air travel 220 202, 197 Coniston Water 87 Aira Force 141 golden eagles 148, 191, 202 Derwentwater 118, 131 ales 3, 209, 3, see also breweries Lakeland Birds of Prey Centre Ullswater 143 Allonby 165 147 Windermere 44 Alston 181-2 Muncaster Owl Centre 101 car travel 15, 221, 224-5, see also Ambleside 58-65, 58 birdwatching 201 scenic drives accommodation 60, 62-3 Gelt Woods RSPB reserve 173 hire 224 activities 60 Haweswater RSPB reserve 148 parking 79, 224 cycling 63, 65 Hodbarrow RSPB reserve 160 road rules 217, 225 drinking 64 Solway Coast nature reserve 165 Carlisle 168-73, 170 emergency services 64, 65 St Bees Head RSPB reserve 165 accommodation 169-70 entertainment 64 Birkett, Bill 200 drinking 171-2 festivals & events 19, 60, 20 Black Combe 155, 155 entertainment 172 food 63-4 Blackwell House 52 food 170-1 hiking tours 57, 61, 57, 61 Blencathra 118 history 168 internet resources 65 boat cruises 6, 223, 6-7, see also medical services 172 shopping 64 canoeing, ferries, row boats sights 168-9 sights 58-60 Coniston Water 86-7 tourist information 172 tourist information 64-5 Derwentwater 6, 113, 6-7 tours 169 travel to/from 65 Ullswater 139 travel to/from 172-3 travel within 65 Windermere 42-3 travel within 173 walking 60 books 190, see also literature Carlisle Castle 10, 168, 10 animals 200-1, see also individual fell running 133 Carlisle Cathedral 169 animals hiking 183, 190, 205, 206 Carrock Fell 125 Appleby Castle 179, 181 history 195 Cartmel 152-3 Appleby-in-Westmorland 179, 181 photographic 200 Cartmel Priory 153 aquariums Boot 102 Castle Crag 131 Lake District Coast Aquarium Borrowdale 10, 129-34, 130, 10 165 Castlegate House Gallery 128 Bowder Stone 131 Castlerigg Stone Circle 8, 122, 8 Lakes Aquarium 52-3 Bowfell 79 Arctic char 30, 201, 208 castles 193 Bowness-on-Windermere, see Appleby Castle 179, 181 area codes 15 Windermere Brougham Castle 175, 24 Bragg, Melvyn 134, 205 Carlisle Castle 10, 168, 10 Brampton 173-4 Kendal Castle 183 000 Map pages Brant Fell 43 Lowther Castle 147, 197 000 Photo pages Brantwood 84 Muncaster Castle 100-1 233 Penrith Castle 175 conservation 191, 202 driving, see car travel Sizergh Castle 186-7 cookery courses 55, 210 Duddon Valley 105 Wray Castle 97 costs 14, see also money Catbells 117 accommodation 213, 214 E cathedrals, see churches food 215 Easedale Round 71 cell phones 15, 218 courses Easedale Tarn 70 Chapel Stile 78 bushcraft 96 economy 190-1 cheese 209 cookery 55, 210 Eden Ostrich World 179 INDEX chemists 215 credit cards 218 electricity 215 children, travel with 31-2 Crinkle Crags 79 Elterwater 77, 78-9 Christian, Fletcher 90-1, 194 Cross-Lakes Experience 224 emergencies 15 C-F churches 196 Crummock Water 134 Ennerdale 110-11 Carlisle Cathedral 169 Cumberland & Westmorland environmental issues 163, 190-1, Cartmel Priory 153 wrestling 74 197-8, 202, 220 Furness Abbey 159 Cumberland Pencil Museum 113, 116 Eskdale 101-5 Lanercost Priory 173 Cumberland Rum Nicky 13, 209 Eskdale Green 101-2 Shap Abbey 147 Cumberland sausages 207, 208 Eskdale Mill 102-3 St Andrew’s Church 175 Cumbria Way 158, 222 Esthwaite Water 92 St James’ Church 134 Cumbrian Coast 35, 149-65, 150, events, see festivals & events 152, 161, 164 St Kentigern’s Church 125 exchange rates 15 St Lawrence’s Church 179 Cunliffe, John 205 St Martin’s Church, Brampton 173 currency 14, 218 St Martin’s Church, Martindale 146 cycling 28, 220-1, 223, 27 F Fairfield Horseshoe 61, 61 St Mary’s Church, Ambleside 59-60 Ambleside 63, 65 farmers markets 210 St Mary’s Church, Grasmere 75 bikes on public transport 100, 139, 222 farming 190-1, 198, 201 St Michael’s Church 91-2 C2C Route 161, 220 Fell Foot Park 52 St Nicholas’ Church 161 Cumbria Way Cycle Route 158, 220 fell running 19, 74, 102, 133, 29 St Olaf’s Church 107 Greystoke Cycle Cafe 179 fells 191, see also hiking St Oswald’s Church 69 Grizedale Forest 94-5 Black Combe 155, 155 Claife Heights 97 Keswick 122 Blencathra 118 climate 14, 18-21, 215, 217 Penrith 178 Bowfell 79 climate change 191, 198, 220 Staveley 55 Brant Fell 43 climbing, see rock climbing Whinlatter Forest 9, 125, 9 Carrock Fell 125 coast, see Cumbrian Coast Windermere 44-5 Castle Crag 131 Cockermouth 126-9, 127 Catbells 117 Cockshott Point 43 Crinkle Crags 79 Coleridge, Samuel Taylor 120, 190, D 196, 203, 204 daffodils 142, 200 Dodds 142-3 Colwith Force 77 Dalegarth 102 Friar’s Crag 113 Conishead Priory 159 Dalemain 139 Great Gable 107 Coniston 34, 82-90, 83, 85 damsons 54 Gummer’s How 43-4 accommodation 82, 87-8 Davies, Hunter 190, 205 Hallin Fell 143 activities 86-7 de Quincey, Thomas 68, 70, 203 Harter Fell 105 boat cruises 86-7 Derwentwater 6, 34, 113, 118, 131, Haystacks 12, 134, 135, 135, 12 canoeing 87 114-15, 6-7 Helm Crag 69, 72, 72 climate 82 disabilities, travellers with 219 Helvellyn 6, 142, 144, 144, 7 drinking 88, 90 Dock Museum 159 Holme Fell 95 festivals & events 18-19, 87 Dodd Wood 123 Langdale Pikes 79, 80, 80 food 82, 88, 90 Dodds 142-3 Latrigg 117-18 highlights 83 Dora’s Field 75 Latterbarrow 97 hiking tour 89, 89 Dove Cottage 8, 68-9, 8 Lingmell 107 internet access 90 drinking, see also breweries Loughrigg Fell 71 row boats 87 cafes 179, 207 Mellbreak 126 sights 84-5 pubs 10, 207, 3, 10 Old Man of Coniston 84, 89, 89 tourist information 90 teashops 207 Orrest Head 43 travel to/from 90 drinks 17, 207, 208, 209-10, see Place
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