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4 Fietsvakantie Griekenland Ledig MET DE MANDOLINE ACHTEROP van Argostoli met de markante vuurto- En de vissersboten, zodat de verse vis- ren. jes met Robolowijn prima smaken. De Vanaf het heerlijke pension in Mousata kijk je links op de Mount Enos, De klim naar de bergdorpjes Faraklata volgende dag: Fiskardo in het noorden. vooruit over de zee en rechts op het Kastro. Kefalonia: zon, zee & strand, en Dilinata is al vervelend maar de Langs de oostkust is het even klimmen cultuur en bergen om te beklimmen. En de mooie Pelagia natuurlijk. nieuwe weg de berg op is echt steil en naar 750 m maar dan zie je het geheim- heet. De teller geeft ruim 800 m aan zinnige Ithaka ook mooi liggen. Dat ie Mousata wanneer ik de onverharde weg inrij, dat nu zo moeilijk kon vinden: twee keer “U krijgt mijn bed; ik slaap wel in langs een eenzaam kerkje, een simpele heen en weer naar Gibraltar zeg! Vlak de keuken.” Elke ochtend puft de kleine boerderij en wat loslopende geiten. Ik voor Fiskardo zie je de eerste oude man- veerpont naar Zakinthos en keert bij de sla te vroeg rechtsaf en sta weldra bo- sions. Met enorme scheuren want de middag-ouzo weer terug. We rijden naar venop de Oros Evmorfias van 1.048 m. aardbeving van 1953 heeft het hele ei- het Kastro Ayios Georgios: het bolwerk Teruggaan is geen optie maar dat bete- land in puin gelegd, behalve Fiskardo. van dit Ionische eiland. Ook belangrijk: kent wel die haarspeldbochten omlaag. Dus is het mooie haventje vergeven van een prima restaurant ernaast. Daarna een Wat is dat steil en glibberig zeg en ik de toeristen, maar ik vind een prima vis- ommetje de berg over, omhoog langs Gouden stranden ben blij wanneer ik ongeschaafd Dilinata tentje voor de hongerige en dorstige fiet- het klooster Agiou Gerasimou stuif ik De boot doet er maar twintig minuten inrij. Maar wat was het mooi! Daarna ser. Terug langs de westkust zijn er om onverhard omlaag aan de voet van over naar Lixouri. Op dit schiereiland kan ik weer voluit naar beneden, rich- elke bocht prachtige uitzichten (Argos!, Mount Enos. Een extra ATB-afsteekje liggen slaperige bergdorpjes met veel ting de oude dam naar het terras.Bij het zo uit de folder) en zeil ik weer omlaag wordt gestraft met een spijker dwars bloemen langs de weg. Het is warm (er eerste biertje zie ik de kop van een flinke naar het slaperige Aghia Efimia. door de buitenband. Bandenplakken bij blijkt sprake van een hittegolf) en de schildpad boven het water uitkomen. Terug in Mousata de middag-ouzo. Natuurlijk ligt de kelen worden dorstig, zodat we wel Kaap Liaka nabij Spartia: “Goede proeverij van de beroemde Robolowijn moeten uitwijken voor een uitgebreide reis Antonio en kom weer terug.” Na naast het klooster: de druiven stomen in lunch onder de bomen van Vilatoria. een ommetje naar Ithaka en Zakinthos de vallei gaar en men schenkt gastvrij Over de berg ligt een goudgeel strand komen we op onze reis weer terug op uit de verschillende vaatjes. maar we dalen liever af naar de haven Kefalonia en rijden we van veerhaven Argostoli van Lixouri voor de middag Mythos. Ik Poros bovenlangs naar Mousata. We zijn “We gaan de Turkse zeemijn opbla- koop twee mooie Griekse CD’s. te vroeg zodat we naar beneden suizen zen”. Vanuit de hoofdplaats Argostoli “Het was een prachtige dag om te naar Skala waar wel een mooie Ro- is het niet ver naar Mirtos Beach: ‘het sterven. (…) Hij ademde diep de meinse villa staat maar ook erg veel toe- mooiste strand van Griekenland’. De Kefalonische lucht in, die Pelagia’s Eenzaam & onverhard achter de bergen risten zijn. Zoals altijd in Griekenland: weg stijgt langzaam langs de kust. Mooi adem bevatte.” De volgende dag roe- Aghia Efimia even doorrijden naar het dorpje ver- is het uitzicht op de fraaie baai met smet- pen de bergen. Vanaf de stad zie je een “Ik heb een paar van je mandoline- derop en weldra zitten we in Kato teloos wit zand en blauwe strandstoe- haarspeldpad recht de berg op naar de snaren gebruikt om je botten onder- Katelios waar je de vissen in de vitrine len in het gelid. De zee kleurt van blauw windmolens bovenop. Op de kaart staat ling te verbinden.” De volgende dag kunt aanwijzen die je op je bord wilt naar turquoise. De duik wordt beloond een mooi klein weggetje achterlangs de rijden we langs de prachtige baai van waar ze gisteren tien meter voor de met een kort maar gemeen klimmetje bergrug middenop het eiland. Ik rij eerst Argostoli naar Aghia Efimia: een loom taverna nog zwommen. De kreeften omhoog maar ach dan daalt de kust- even langs het standbeeld voor de ver- stadje met een lange kade met taverna’s zwaaien nog. Bij de gedachte aan het weg weer gestaag naar de dam. moorde Italianen aan de prachtige baai waar de zeilboten ‘s-middags aanmeren. mooie pension in Mousata is de klim de 1 2 van 95 km Mousata, Aghia Efimia, Mousata. Zij praten veel over de koers- ontwikkelingen want Filip is sportver- zorger van een Belgisch profteam en bei- den zijn wielrenner geweest. We nemen heen niet de steile bergweg omhoog maar rijden langzaam stijgend vanuit Argostoli bovenlangs Mirtos beach om- laag naar Aghia Efimia. Na de lunch aan Sporen van de aardbeving bij Fiskardo de haven als verrassing een gemeen steil berg op gauw vergeten en weldra kij- Klimmen naar 1.000 m en uitzicht op Sami en Ithaka ken we weer op het Kastro. Kaap Liaka licht mooi op in de schemering bij een glaasje ouzo (uit Mitilini natuurlijk!). Uitnodigend terras aan baai van Argostoli “Madonna mia, het is Antonia”. Ik wil het ATB-pad achter de bergrug nog een keer afmaken dus rij ik maar weer die ellendige berg op bij Argostoli. Weer is de ATB-weg onduidelijk en rij ik par- does de Monolati 1.000 m op. Mooi Guido & Filip zijn blij boven te komen uitzicht op Sami (andere kant van het en heet klimmetje alsnog naar ‘mijn’ Bijkomen met Robolo vanaf balkon in Mousata eiland), dat wel. De afdaling vergoedt bergweg. Het is inmiddels duidelijk: Flink klimmen op sfeervol Ithaka veel: je kijkt op oud (verwoest) Valsa- Kefalonia is een prima fietseiland: groot mata, Agiou Gerasimou en de wijngaar- genoeg, mooi, groen, rustig en alles goed den, vanaf de heerlijk onverharde weg en soepel geregeld. In september orga- naar Mousata waar die Mythos wacht. niseert Guido nog een clinic met Ste- ven Rooks, die ik natuurlijk ken van mijn “Pezzo di medra! Mijn hele leven ge- Klooster Gerasimou Trapezaki beach bij Mousata wacht, mijn hele leven gerouwd, mijn gewonnen shirt. Dat lijkt me wel wat, hele leven gedacht dat je dood was.” maar ja dan zit ik al op Corfu… De volgende dag huren we racefietsen Het meisje dat de brommer bestuurde van Guido van Meeteren: de Neder- had haar voeten op de brandstoftank landse organisator daar. Dat rijdt ineens geplaatst, het tweede werkte haar heel wat lichter dan de eigen ATB’s: vrij- make-up bij en de derde zat achter- wel nieuwe prima alu Cube fietsen met stevoren.” Twee maanden later zie ik goede onderdelen (Shimano 105). Kapitein Correlli’s mandoline op tv en We maken samen met zijn vriend en verlang ik weer terug naar die mooie Pelagia … Otte Boom mede-organisator Filip Sercu een rondje (www.hellenic-cycling.com) 3 Visjes eten in Fiskardo en Ag. Efimia 4 Het turquoise Mirtos Beach en Argos.
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