Tips for Responsible Tourism 1 Table of Contents

Amani Nature Reserve and E ast U sambaraM ountains in T

Amani

anzania Nature Reserve tips for responsible tourism 1 Table of contents

Map of the area ...... 3 © Elina Piekkola East Usambara Mountains ...... 4 Amani Nature Reserve ...... 6 Amani Butterfly Project ...... 10 Fauna and Flora ...... 12 Birdlife ...... 16. Trails and sights ...... 18 Accommodation options ...... 22 Sights and villages outside of Amani NR . . . . . 26

Things to keep in mind / Tips for visitors . . . . . 28 Cover photos: © Elina Piekkola, © Juha-Pekka Kervinen / WWF Text: Elina Piekkola Maps: © 2011 Microsoft Corporation and its data suppliers Combining the coast with your visit . . . . . 30. 2012

2 3 East usambara Mountains

The Usambara Mountains are part of the the Eastern parts through Amani. East Usam- wide Lwengera river valley, they still create a Eastern Arc Mountain chain that consisted bara is relatively smaller than the West but it homogenous ecological and geological unity. of twelve scattered mountain blocks, winding receives more rainfall since it is geographically The uniqueness and the richness of the area from Southern Kenya to Southern Tanzania. closer to the Indian Ocean. in terms of biodiversity is the result of the These geologically ancient mountains harbor The Usambara Mountains were formed geographical position of the area and stability an unusual number of endemic species and more than 30 million years ago. For the last in geological and climate factors. The end- are highly important for African as well as for 10 million years the forests have been separated emism among species is remarkable which global biodiversity. The Eastern Arc Moun- from the west and central African forests and makes the area an interesting and unrivalled tains are recognised as one of the world’s 25 because of this the forest blocks have been able ecotourism and research destination. Biodiversity Hotspots and are often referred to develop as a refuge for many species as well The number of species found in the as the “Galapagos Islands of Africa”. as an area with high biodiversity. Geological Eastern Arc Mountains is very high and new and climate history as well as geographical fea- species are regularly discovered. The entire The Usambara Mountains tures such as rainfall and the range of latitudes mountain range is a home to about 2960 spe- The Usambara Mountains forests in Tanzania are the main reason for extensive variety of tree, cies of plants, 394 species of butterflies, 371 are one of the most important conservation shrub and animal species. These mountains species of birds, 106 species of mammals, 101 areas in Africa. Including some of the world’s have many highly forest dependent animal spe- species of reptiles, 38 species of amphibians oldest, remaining unspoiled tropical forests. cies and the combination of different habitats and 61 species of linyphiidae spiders. The Usambara Mountains are 110 km long and has made it possible to maintain a varied num- In terms of tourists, the West Usambara 30-60 km wide and the highest point reaches ber of animal species. The main forest types in Mountains receive most of the visitors since up to 2440 meters. These mountains are situ- the Eastern Arc Mountains are Montane, Sub- the accessibility, general infrastructure and ated between the Mt. Kilimanjaro and Indian montane, Lowland and Dry Lowland forests. services are more developed. People, who vis- Ocean. The Usambara Mountains have two The East Usambara Mountains are situ- it the East Usambara, mostly stay in Amani sub-mountain ranges namely the East and the ated approximately 40 km from the Tanzanian and in the West Usambara, in Lushoto. West Usambara. Western parts of the moun- north-east coast. Even though the East and West Since the mountain area receives sub- tains can be accessed through Lushoto and Usambara Mountains are separated by the 4 km stantial amounts of rainfall and the forests 4 © Laura Tahkokallio / WWF maintain the soil fertility, the area is also good landscape that changes from tea fields and in the region for many years and developed for agriculture. Unfortunately many of the local farms into a lush mountainous forest. approaches that at the same time benefit local forests have been cleared for ever expanding German and British colonial period and its communities and protect the remaining for- farm lands. The Eastern Arc Mountains also influence can also be seen in the old remain- ests. These projects have included for instance provide firewood, building material, electrity ing deteriorated buildings and the significant establishing community forests, beekeeping through hydroelectric power plants, medical tea cultivation, especially at Amani Nature activities and fish pond and butterfly farming. plants and a perfect environment for animals Reserve. In Amani, the East Usambara Tea Raising awareness of the importance of and plants. Company owns more than 1000 ha of land the mountain forests has been promoted in which has a significant impact on the regional the area through World Environment Day Human impact, history landscape. celebrations on 5th June. During the years, about 70% of the original The East Usambara Mountain forests forest cover has been chopped down, first for Future challenges and their wellbeing is crucial for sustaining wood production and now by turning the re- The remaining forest cover is threatened by the lives of millions of people. The mountain maining forests into a farm land. It has been forest fires, illegal logging and mining and forests regulate and sustain the water supply estimated that in 2003 there were less than the constant expansion of agricultural land. for the area and for the city of Tanga and its 3 300 sq. km of the original forest cover re- The current population in the Usambara surrounding area. The forests also act as car- maining. The mountains have been influenced Mountains is estimated to be 420,000 inhab- bon sinks and storage and provide non timber by human activities and inhabited by local itants, living in 61 villages and numerous sub- forest products. One of the alternative income farmers for over 2000 years but in the past villages. These people are directly dependent revenues to the area can be developed from decades the pressure towards the use of the on the existence of the forests. Different sustainable ecotourism that is based on saving forests has become unsettling. During German Organizations, such as Tanzanian Forest Con- and protecting the remaining forests and colonialism, new cash crops, like coffee and servation Group (TFCG), World Wildlife Fund their biodiversity. In the end, the forest and tea, were introduced to the local agriculture. (WWF) and NORAD (the Norwegian Agency its animals and plants are the main reason This transformation can be seen in the diverse for Development Cooperation) have worked visitors are attracted to the area.

5 © Elina Piekkola View from the road on the way from Amani Conservation Rest House towards Shebomeza village.

6 Amani Nature Reserve

Amani Nature Reserve offers an alternative includes low and highlands. As the biggest for- like pottery, preheated iron-smelting furnace and diverse side of Africa’s nature to be dis- est reserve, Amani has a high value in terms of and presence of charcoal are all indicators of covered. This peaceful, lush and mountainous the regional nature conservation. Due to mul- local people´s early habitation and explora- region offers visitors a chance to immerse tiple factors, Amani not only has a variety of tion. After and during colonial timetimes, the themselves into relaxed and unique mountain different endemic flora and fauna species but Germans and the British made many efforts to forest surroundings and enjoy the beauty of also a wide variety of different landscapes. explore the mountain area and its resources, nature. As the Usambara Mountains are glob- The establishment of Amani Botanic mainly to supply timber. Forestry also pro- ally recognised as highly valuable in terms of Garden in the early 1900s introduced many vided other important non-timber products biodiversity, the Tanzanian government, with new and exotic trees as well as scrub species as well as shelter. Also a railway line (Tanga- foreign donors, has made efforts to ensure the to the area. Even though the botanic garden Muheza) and a power mill were built to sup- future protection of the area. The rich bio- was moved to Nairobi, Kenya in 1948, a vast port the timber transportation and access to diversity and the uniqueness of the location amount of exotic species were left behind and the markets. is also the reason for high number of endemic are nowadays naturalised into the landscape. People have been influencing the area for species in the area. This makes the Amani Nature Reserve’s ex- more than 2000 years and there are still some Amani Nature Reserve is situated in isting plant collection probably one of the fragments of the old history left visible in the northeast Tanzania, 35 km from Muheza and largest homogeny collections of exotic area. Beside of the old colonial buildings and 45 km from Tanga, in the southern section of plants in tropical Africa. Consequently, the short colonial history we should not forget the East Usambara Mountains. Amani Nature area has a very unique collection of endemic the history and culture of the local peasants Reserve was the first nature reserve in and introduced plant species important to lo- and their influence to the area. Tanzania and it has been protected since 1997 cal and global botany. Over time Amani forests German colonialists introduced coffee under the Director of Forest and Beekeeping have developed into a lush, and interesting for- plantations, among sisal, cinchona, cocoa and Division. Assembled from six different forests ests rich in biodiversity, that provides shelter rice. Coffee plantations were later changed reserves, Amani Nature Reserve is the biggest to an immense number of different animals. into tea plantations and today The East Usam- protected area in the East Usambara Moun- Humans have resided in the Eastern Arc bara Tea Company owns more than 1000 hec- tains, covering approximately 8360 ha that Mountains for at least 2000 years. Evidences tares of land and some of these plantations are

7 © Elina Piekkola part of Amani Nature Reserve. Even though viewpoints, waterfalls and most of all the sur- the local’s attitudes towards the tea company rounding forests. During the night it is recom- has been mainly negative, the company has mended to go for a guided night walk to spot made efforts towards nature conservation by some animals that are otherwise difficult to donating more than 1000 hectares under pro- see (for example chameleons and bats). tection to be part of Amani Nature Reserve. The conservation value of these moun- At present, the landscape in ANR is very di- tains is high and the forests in Amani main- verse and rich in tones. The landscape is col- tain the Sigi Rivers watershed, its quality and oured by old colonial buildings, now mainly quantity for the future. empty, that are reminding reminder of the old Entrance Fee to the Amani Nature Re- colonial period. serve is 10 USD per person. The long colourful history, together with From Dar es Salaam, take the A7 and numerous plant and animal species makes the How to get to the Amani Nature Reserve then A14. The distance between Dar es Salaam place excellent for research purposes, botani- By car and Muheza is about 317 km. From Dar es cal research and ecotourism purposes as well Highway A14 runs along the northern coast, Salaam prepare to spend about 4-5 hours on as for relaxing. Hiking and biking along trails heading towards Dar es Salaam it changes into the road before reaching Muheza. However, and sandy roads through beautiful mountain- the A7. this time estimation depends highly on ous forests, as well as bird watching, are the From Tanga you drive about 38 km a possible roadwork’s along the way. most common activities enjoyed by tourists towards South, to a town called Muheza If coming from the west, you still need visiting the ANR. There are some accommo- and from there you turn inland to reach the to pass through Muheza town. From Arusha dation options available in the reserve (see Amani Nature Reserve. From Muheza, drive it takes about 5-6 hours, from Moshi about accommodation section) but also camping in northwest towards Amani Nature Reserve, it 5 hours and from Lushoto 2-3 hours. designated sites is common. Amani Nature is about 25 km but the sandy road can be quite Reserve also has a community based butterfly hilly and often in poor condition. Prepare to By bus project centre, which can be visited in order to travel slowly and enjoy the landscape. There are several local buses operating from get familiar with butterfly breeding and spot From Muheza up to the Amani plateau, Dar es Salaam to Muheza or from Tanga to some beautiful butterflies of the area. Along it takes about 1 hour 15 minutes but this totally Muheza. From Muheza to Amani there should the trails there are also numerous picnic sites, depends on the road quality at that time. be a daily bus (Tsh 2000).

8 © Elina Piekkola Facts Guides to contact

Amani Nature Reserve, Tanzania Martin Joho (specialist in birds, Amani NR) Long./lat.: 5°14’10’’-5°04’30’’ S, [email protected] 38°30’34’’-38°40’06’’ E Phone: (+255) 0786108086 UTM: 94 21640-94 39000 S, Victor Mkogewa 45 0600-46 3200 E (specialist in birds, Amani NR) Elevation: 190-1130 AMSL [email protected] Mean annual rainfall: 1910 mm Phone: (+255) 0784623759 Mean daily max. temperature: 24.6 C Alloyce J. Mkongewa Mean daily min. temperature: 16.3 C Abduel B. Kajiru Nature Reserve, established in 1997 Maria R. John through joining six different forest reserves (Amani-Sigi, Amani-east, Amani- Since the phone numbers and west, Kwamsambia, Kramkoro and other contact information might change from time to time, all Mnyuzi Scarp). A Man and the Biosphere of the guides can be contacted Reserve (MAB). Topographically the through the available staff, either catchment area of the Sigi River. through your accommodation or through the conservation Hectares: 8380 ha, including 1065 ha, centre. The guides normally owned by the East Usambara Tea charge 25 USD per day/person, Company. but groups normally pay less. It is recommended that you book Amani means peace in Kiswahili which your guide in advance to make represents the area well since it has sure that one is available for you while you are staying in Amani. a very tranquil and quiet atmosphere.

9 The Amani Butterfly Project

The Amani Butterfly project is a non-profit lings for their egg laying so the farmers are exhibits, they are normally shipped as a pupa organisation that markets and sells butterfly highly dependent on the forests for regularly and when they reach their destination they be- pupae, bred by the local farmers in the East collecting new seeds. gin to hatch. Getting the timing right and en- Usambara Mountains. The mission of the The farmers’ direct access to the forests suring the wellbeing of the butterflies makes project is to alleviate local people’s poverty by is very important in terms of wellbeing of selling pupae very challenging. providing an alternative income option and to the farmers and their butterflies. Occasion- Two villages in the Amani Nature Reserve enforce the nature conservation. The Amani ally farmers need to also catch some male and two villages outside of the reserve are in- Butterfly Project is a scheme run by the Tanza- butterflies in the forests in order to maintain volved in butterfly farming. Many of the peo- nia Forest Conservation Group (TFCG) which the genetic flow. The butterfly farmers also ple involved make a significant income from provides important support to butterfly farm- need moisture and shade for their enclosures, the farming. Being part of the farming initia- ers and guidance on regarding various issues provided by the forests. Since the project has tive and starting to raise butterflies normally related to the butterfly keeping. been working in the Amani Reserve, farmers’ involves the whole family which means that Butterfly farming concentrates on attitudes towards forest conservation have women and children also get an important providing alternative, sustainable and reliable become more positive and interactive. The chance to participate. The main concern of the income to the local people and at the same connection between the forest conservation butterfly project in the future is the changing time encourages people to protect their envi- and income revenue has also been recognised. stability of the markets and the degradation of ronment. The butterfly farming has a direct The butterfly life cycle starts from an the forests. connection to the forest conservation since egg, continuing into larva, pupa and finally The Amani Butterfly project started in the breeding activities are directly dependent turns into an adult butterfly. The different 2001 and first sales of pupae were conducted on forestry. stages take different amounts of time to un- in 2004. The main markets for pupae are USA To start with, the farmers will capture dergo, depending on the species. For example and Europe. Pupa price differ according to some female butterflies from the forest, place – an adult butterfly can live for a week or up the butterfly species and varies between 1 USD them into a cage and plant the specific host to one year and the egg state can last from few to 3 USD. Pupae are mainly sold into butterfly plants for the female to lay their eggs and feed weeks up to many months. If the butterflies houses abroad but some dried butterflies are on. Many species of butterflies prefer seed- are transported, sold onwards into butterfly also sold to dealers or collectors. The income

10 revenue is divided between the farmers (65%), project management (28%) and to the community development (7%). The Butterfly Centre also makes earrings and necklaces out of the butterfly wings. The production employs some of the Hypolimnas Usambara Euphaedra neophron local women and the revenue is used for the maintenance of the centre and the project. In the future, the centre will also sell framed butterflies. In the Butterfly Centre there is a live exhibit of butterflies but since some of the species are seasonal and rare, the best time to visit the centre in order to see most of the butterflies is between March and October. During that period you might see 10-20 different species of butterflies at once. The centre is situated in a village called Shebomeza, 2 km from the Amani Nature Reserve Conservation Centre (see map page 3). Entrance Fee Tourists 2500 TSH (if under 13 years 1500 TSH), © Elina Piekkola Tanzanian Residents 1500 TSH Tanzanian Citizens 500 TSH

Notice; prices may change. Papilion demodocus

11 © Elina Piekkola

Male Chamaeleo deremensis next to Emau Hill Camp Site.

12 Fauna and Flora

In terms of biodiversity, Amani Nature Re- any control the endemic and exotic species a tree that everybody knows in the area. serve has a vast number of endemic and have mixed together, creating an interest- Their seeds are collected for their kernels threatened species and therefore it offers ing assembly of plant species. The Botanical that produce hard white fat that can be used an extensive amount of opportunities for Garden was moved to Nairobi in the 1950 but as a cooking oil or soap. One fruit may contain research as well as ecotourism potential. it is still likely the largest Botanical Gar- more than 40 seeds. Allanblackia is now Amani is a perfect place for bird watching, den in Africa and adds a significant input being planted by local farmers as a part of trekking, relaxing and for instance going for to the regional biodiversity and conservation. silviculture. mountain biking, along the mountainous dirty However, some of the plants have become The East Usambara Mountains are also and sandy roads. Even though the big African naturalised and some of them even invasive, famous for African Violets, the Usambara mammals are not present in East Usambara which has now become a considerable prob- violet (Genus Saintpaulia). The Europeans Mountains (although there used to be leop- lem to the local ecology. Good example of the discovered African violets around 1892 (by ards), they offer a spectacular landscape, invasive species is Maesopsis eminii (occupies the German, Baron Walter von Saint Paul an astonishing amount of different species vast areas near the Kwamkoro Nature Trail). Illaire) and commercial selling began in 1927. and a small scale tourism experience. Other invasive species are Cedrela odorata, Nowadays, these very common perennial Amani Botanical Garden, arboretum, Clidemia hirta, Rubus spp., Phyllostachys household plants grow naturally in specific was established by German colonialists in bambusoides and Landolphia sp. environments, flourishing in shaded steep 1902 for agricultural and experimental re- The Amani plateau has a perfect elevation rock surfaces. A closed canopy is very impor- search. Different botanical trial plots of plants for submontana forest species. You can find tant for African violets, since it maintains the were introduced and planted in the area from about 650 different species of trees from vital shade and humidity. All eight species of different parts of the world. Mainly exotic which 40 are endemic to the area. Among African violets can be found in the Eastern economic and ornamental trees and crops some rare species, the most common near- Arc Mountains and there are also many sub- were planted in order to see the economic endemic species of trees and shrubs that can species. potential of the plants. Originally the size of be seen in Amani are: Leptonychia usamba- Since the variety of plants and tree spe- the Garden was 350 hectares but nearly half of rensis, Cephaosphaera usambarensis and cies is numerous, the number of different it was outside the protection area and without Allanblackia stuhlmannii. Allanblackia is habitats is also numerous. Amani has rich

13 reptilian fauna, 26 snake species, seven 7 species of vertebrates are strictly endemic Next page from left: species of chameleons, geckos, skinks, agama in the area and in the Eastern Arc as a total, Canonball tree flower, Beetle from Amani, Squirrel, Caterpillar, Small Black Mamba, One of the many lizard (Agama agama) and in total 34 dif- there are 74 endemic vertebrates. lizards in the area, Allanblackia stuhlmannii ferent amphibian species (8 of them being There are an estimated 16 species (Clusiaceae) fruit, Black and White Colobus endemic). Common snakes are Python sabae, of bats and about 400 different species Monkey, One of the many frogs in the area Atheris ceratophorus, Dendroaspis angus- butterflies living in the East Usambara ticeps and Philothamnus hoplogaster. Com- Mountain forests. Of these butterfly species to connect forests patches with corridors will mon chameleons are Bradypodion fischeri, about 112 can be found in Amani NR (species hopefully help the animals to move between Bradypodion tenue, Chamaeleo dilepis and like; Hypolimnas antevorte, Hypolimnas us- different patches and hopefully in the future chamaeleo deremensis. ambarae). Of these 112, two species of butter- some of the rarely spotted animals will be- The area has also a large number of flies are endemic and nine are near endemic. come more common. invertebrates. Some of the species include Also a number of different moths can be easily Bird watching is very common among butterflies, moths, lea- and rove beetles, bugs, spotted during the night (families of Saturni- tourists since there are numerous different crickets, grasshoppers, wasps, millipedes and dae, Sphingidae, Microlepidoptera). bird species. Vulnerable Sokoke scops owls gastropods. For example, the millipedes who Small mammals like Zanj elephant can be seen very rarely in lowlands but other have limited dispersal indicate high level of shrews (Rhynchocyon petersi.) can be seen bird species like Amani sunbirds, Long-billed endemism. Also the 94% of the ground beetles especially during the rainy season but oth- Tailorbirds, Usambara eagle owl, Fischer’s tu- are believed to be endemic. Wherever you ers like blue monkeys (Cercopithecus mitis raco and East coast akalat can be spotted with look, you can see something moving or snuf- neumanni), black and white colobus monkeys a talented local guide and a little bit of luck. fling and no wonder the place is called the (Colobus angolensis palliates), squirrels and The number of different plant and animal “Galapagos Islands of Africa”. bush babies are abundant in the area. On species differs from one origin to another. Most of the vertebrates are highly for- top of the different shrews there are also some The uncertainty on the actual amounts of spe- est dependent and their existence and future African soft-furred rats. Also tree hyraxes, cies can be explained by the fact that during relies on the abundance of the forest. Among Abbot’s duikers and East African collared fruit the last ten years more than 400 different these 74 species, there are 40 endemic and bats might be spotted, but rarely. You might species have been discovered in the Coastal 16 near-endemic vertebrate species. At least also hear stories about wild pigs. The efforts East Africa region.

14 © Elina Piekkola

15 Birdlife

A high diversity of bird species in East Us- remaining habitats in the East Usambara forest dependent the ongoing habitat distur- ambara Mountains makes the Amani Nature Mountains are one of the most important bird bance has a significant influence on the bird Reserve and the surrounding forest areas sites on the African mainland. The area is population levels and their future. an excellent place for bird watching. The recommended in many bird guides since the Some of the birds have very restricted amount of different bird species is high and distribution and specific territories since some of the birds can be found only in these the birds can be very specific on their habi- mountains. The birds are the best known ani- tats. In the Amani Nature Reserve and areas mals of these mountains and you will be able next to the Reserve the differences in land- to spot vast amount of birds during a day. scape (fields, thick forests, river banks, and In Amani alone there are at least 110 bird ponds) offers an excellent mosaic of different species and some of them are listed to be habitats. Some of the birds in the area that globally threatened. can be spotted include: globally threatened Amani Nature Reserve offers many op- Long-billed tailorbird (Orthotomus portunities to spot different species of bird moreaui), vulnerable Amani sunbird since there are lowland forests and submon- (Anthreptes pallidigaster), Banded tane forests (above 850 metres). This means green sunbird (A. rubritorques), that both lowland and highland species can Usambara eagle owl (Budo vosse- be seen in the area. A good network of trails leri), Blue-mantled crested flycatcher provides an excellent opportunity for bird (Trochocercus cyanomelas) vulnerable watching and hiking. Also the existing road Dappled mountain robin (Modulatrix network helps on transportation around and orostruthus), Fischer’s turaco (Tau- means it is possible to cover large areas dur- raco fischeri), Usambara weaver (Plo- © Elina Piekkola ing the day. The bird specialist guides have ceus nicolli), Little yellow flycatcher the knowledge of the different territories of (Erythrocercus holochlorus), the list

Long-crested Eagle sitting on a papaya tree. different birds. Since the birds are highly is endless.

16 © Elina Piekkola

Half Collared Kingfisher Common Hornbill at Amani Nature Reserve. A sunbird Kalastaja levittää verkkoja kuivumaan Papua-Uusi-Guineassa.

17 © Juha-Pekka Kervinen Juha-Pekka / WWF

Dodwe waterfalls in September.

18 Trails and sights

Bombom forest trail (see map) villages and crosses some rivers. On the trail Bombom forest trail begins from the Sigi you can see the different landscapes of Amani Information Centre, the old station Master’s including tea plantations, forests, hills and House, and this is a “difficult” trail. First the local farming. Since the trail has many dif- trail follows the bank of the Sigi River but ferent landscapes and habitats, it is easier to then the trail continues all the way up to the spot different species of birds. For example hill. At the very beginning you need to cross this trail has two different territories of Long- the Sigi River and during the rainy season this billed Tailorbird (Orthotomus moreaui). Also might be hard or even impossible. The hike birds like the Long-crested Eagle (Lophaetus up to the hill is hard and the trail is very steep occipitalis) can be seen. Chameleons can also and thick with leaf cover. Just before you be spotted early in the morning, as well as reach the top, you can see Amani village, with frogs beside the river banks. As the trail is not Amani Conservation centre, on your right marked and it is easy to take the wrong road, hand side. You know that you have reached a guide is highly recommended. the top when you see a hole that was dug a long time ago, when people were looking for Kwamkoro- Kimbo trail rubies. On this trail you might see some ba- At the beginning of the trail on the right hand boons, frogs and crabs beside the river base, side there is a tree nursery of Allanblackia chameleons, spiders and birds like the Usam- stuhlmannii trees. In the nursery there are bara Thrush and Red Tailed Ant-Thrush. some fishponds which attract Half-collared small fishes, crabs and frogs in the river. On kingfishers. When you continue along the road, the way up towards the old forest rest house, Derema trail soon after the nursery, there is a place next to there is a camping site, a place called Kiganga This trail is very easy to walk and basically the river where you can spot some Saint Pauli- but since the place does not receive visitors or mostly follows the road. The road meanders as (African violets), growing on the cliff beside hikers very often the camp site is basically just through tea estates, natural forest patches, the river. Along the trail, you might see some an open area where you can set up your tent.

19 The trail follows an old road that goes all the Dodwe waterfall There are two rivers that join together at this way up to the place called the old forest rest This waterfall can be easily accessed from the site. It is a perfect place for picnic. Further house. Unfortunately the house has been de- road, even though the way down is quite steep. down from the waterfall, when the water is not stroyed but you can still find some traces of too high you can find good places to sit and the existence of the house. From the old forest admire the beautiful waterfall. Children are rest house, there is a beautiful view into the sometimes swimming and playing in a small valley of Lwengela, the valley that separates pond on top of the waterfall. You can dip your West and East Usambara. On the trail you can toes into the water and even have a swim if also see, if lucky, some black and white colo- you wish. However, there may be some snakes, bus monkeys, different bird species (Usam- fishes and crabs that might be harmful. bara thrush), snakes and if you are especially fortunate, duikers. Mbomole Hill (see map) The short and easy walk up to the hill can be Kwamkoro Tea Factory pond (see map) done easily. The walk through the Botanical Early in the morning, you can sometimes garden, that was planted around 1902, gives hear, even just by waking up in Amani, the a visitor a good over view of how exotic and siren calling the workers to work. This is the endemic species have become naturalised and place where the sound comes from. Next to mixing with endemic species, together creating the tea factory, in Kwamkoro, there is a big a lush forest. Along the trail many birds, mon- pond which affords a great opportunity to keys, frogs, butterflies (especially at the top) spot and watch different birds, especially and other animals can be spotted. On the path those living next to the water, like the Giant you can see some fallen fruits of Allanblackia and Half Collared Kingfishers, different Swal- stuhlmannii (Msambu). The seeds from this lows (Mosque swallow and Lesser Striped coconut-like fruit can be prepared and used as swallow, African pied wagtail and different cooking oil or as a local soap. During the night, Sunbirds (coral sunbird). Also other animals this trail is also easy to follow. On a night can be found that like to stay next to water, walk, you might see chameleons, frogs, bats such as frogs. etc. From the hilltop, there is a wide view over

20 Amani and the East Usambara mountains. ment pond you will be able to see some crabs. Sharpe’s Akalat and White-chested Alethe). Towards North, you can see Mt. Nilo (1509 m), After the water catchment area the trail goes The turaco trail is a short trail that goes up to Mgambo tea estate and some primary forest into a dense forest and leads out from people’s the hill and you must follow the same route of the Monga forest, in the valley. From the shambas (fields). back. This trail has been used for bird moni- hilltop, you can find the Long-crested eagle, toring and research purposes so it is a good normally sitting on the top of the decayed tree Spice trail place to spot many different bird species. trunk. At the top, there is also a picnic site with This is a very short walk benches. During the day the bench site gets that leaves from beside really hot so if you wish to use them, go early of the bridge crossing enough in the morning. There is no one re- the Sigi River and ends sponsible for emptying the rubbish bin at shortly at a spice farm. the site so please do not leave anything behind. At this farm you can see black pepper, cloves, cin- Lowland trail namon and cardamom The lowland trail follows the forest boarder seedlings and plants. The and farm land. On this trail you may be able to trail follows the Sigi River spot some bird species that can be only seen and you can walk back to in lowland areas. This includes Usambara the starting point just by Hyliota (hyliota usambara), Plain-backed following the road. Sunbird (Anthreptes reichenowi), Chestnut- fronted Helmet-shrike (prionops scopifrons) Turaco bird trail and Retz’s Helmet- Shrike. The lowland trail is This trail goes up the hill short and easy, a loop, where the other half of through primary forest. the trail is walked on the side of the road. Most of the thrushes (over 75%) can be seen on this Pipeline trail (see map) trail but also other birds This trail follows the water pipeline up to the (e.g. Orange ground- Amani water catchment area. At the catch- thrush, Usambara thrush,

21 © Elina Piekkola

Tented banda at Emau Forest Hill Camp.

22 Accommodation © Elina Piekkola

Amani Conservation Centre Rest House watch TV and relax so it is often quite a noisy ~25 USD/night/person, incl.meals place.

Amani Conservation centre offers hostel Amani Rest House style accommodation with small, clean ~30 USD/night/person, incl. meals rooms, beds with mosquito nets and rooms with bathrooms. For hot water, there are Amani Rest House is situated in the top of generators. This government owned rest a small hill next to the library and few minutes house is in a good location next to the lo- walk from the Amani Conservation Centre cal small shop and Mbomole Hill. The Rest Rest House. This rest house offers pleasant and House provides meals (breakfast, lunch, din- friendly accommodation at a reasonable price. Amani Conservation Center office building. ner) for extra costs and there is a small shop The rooms are spacious, clean and there is an © Elina Piekkola in the dining area for some souvenirs and old colonial stone house atmosphere that can books (if available). Soft drinks and beer can easily take you back in time. In the dining room also be purchased. The restaurant provides there is an old fireplace and a bookshelf with filtered drinking water and you can also fill some old, dusty books that can be borrowed in your water bottle. It is mostly researchers, while you are staying. However if you wish to who are working in the area, that stay at this borrow them, please return the books before hostel since it is very convenient if moving leaving. The place also has a spacious backyard around daily and also quite cheap. Monkeys lawn, a library just next to the rest house and pass by almost on a daily basis and the out- amazing view over the hills. Although the staff side shed next to the restaurant provides are very friendly, their English vocabulary is a good place for spotting different birds. limited so that you might want to learn some Amani Rest House However, this shed is also used by locals to basic Swahili.

23 © Elina Piekkola Sigi Rest House access the internet, at least close to the Amani ~20 USD/night/person Rest House. The library at Amani also has an internet access available. Sigi Rest House is situated at the base of the Amani Nature Reserve. If the roads are in poor Emau Forest Hill Camp condition the bus will stop here. It is budget ~65 USD/night/person depending on accommodation. Sigi Rest House offers rooms, the room with two or three beds that have mosquito nets and the toilet and shower facilities are This accommodation option is situated at adequate. On the other side of the road you the edge of Amani Nature Reserve and offers can see the beautiful wooden German Station options of tented bandas or a camp site for Master’s House, built in the early 1900s. This camping with your own tent. This place is the house has been used as an information centre best accommodation option in terms of facili- but at the moment it is abandoned. In the fu- ties and service. The place is surrounded by ture, there is a plan to reopen this building as beautiful forest, hillsides and a garden which a tourism information centre. has some specific plants to attract different In all of the accommodation places it species of birds, like the sunbirds. The place is possible to put up your own tent, when of itself is small, charming and offers a com- course the price is much lower (for e.g. at fortable stay for singles and families alike. Emau Forest Hill Camp, 7 USD per person). Some environmental issues have also been Amani Nature Reserve is a place to turn off addressed by minimising the impact on the our mobile phones and enjoy the nature that surrounding environment. Emau Forest Camp surrounds you. However, almost all of the site uses solar panels for solar-powered lamps, telephone operators work in the area (airtel, bush showers and compost toilet facilities. tico) but there are some dead zones. Internet Meals are eaten in a dining banda and they connection is available in the library but if you contain, amongst other things, local products have your own wireless internet from local and a variety of vegetables available from

Dining area at Emau Forest Hill Camp. operator you might find places that you can the area. Emau offers a relaxing, small scale

24 © Elina Piekkola accommodation option although the facilities called Zabibu Salehe. She can accommodate are limited. From the Emau Hill Forest Camp two persons and more places can be found if you will be able to make some short walks needed. Also beside the river, lives an old lady (maps are provided) in the surrounding area called Monica Joseph Msigiti and she can and local guides can be arranged. Tented Ban- also accommodate some guests. das are 65 USD/ night and cottage rooms are Keep in mind that there is no fixed fee for 80 USD/night. Make your reservation early staying in someone’s home. Locals would like as the hill camp is small and can be often fully you to provide the money needed for food if booked. you wish to eat something that they prepare. More information and reservations from: Locals would also like you to leave some mon- www.emauhill.com, [email protected], ey for the bed provided. If you wish to stay in +255 782 656 526 someone’s home, bear in mind the cultural differences and the fact that these homes does Amani Medical Research Centre not have any “homestay standards”. It is very This building has a historical significance as it generous that you are allowed to stay in some- has been occupied by different institutions in one’s home. the past. Currently, there is ongoing research As the Amani Nature Reserve does not on mosquito susceptibility to insecticides. Ac- receive many tourists (about 520 per year) you commodation possibilities are not guaranteed. might want to learn some basic Swahili words in order to get along with locals. In most of Go local, choose a homestay the accommodation places, the staff members If you wish to stay in somebody’s home as a can speak some English. The Amani Nature guest, you can try to find a lady called Batuli Reserve does not have well developed tourism Saidi at Shebomeza village. She can offer a network and only few people are involved in bed for two and she lives next to the Amani the business. Butterfly Centre. In the next village called Mlesa, there is also a homestay possibility. Contact a lady All rates are subject to change. Batuli Saidi´s home at Shebomeza village.

25 Sights and villages outside of Amani Nature Reserve © Elina Piekkola Many of the villages outside the Amani Nature can find a cave which was used for execution Reserve do not receive any tourists but some purposes during the colonial era. In the forest, of the places are worth of a visit if you can ar- there is also a hole, where you can drop range transportation and a guide. The main a stone and wait until you hear echo. Another attractions in these villages are the village for- hole apparently makes stones to rise high up est reserves. In order to enter the village forest into the air. Also the forests in this area, espe- reserves you usually need to pay a small fee cially this forest reserve, have been used for (~5,000-10,000 TSh) to the village office. In ritual purposes, like rain making. all of the villages, it is also possible to camp but In the Handei village forest reserve you it is polite to ask where you can set up camp. can also see a huge rock that is mainly occupied by Saint Paulia plants. If you wish to see these Mgambo village African violets and other attractions you must Close to the Mgambo village there is a Handei walk down towards the valley. The way down village forest reserve, which is managed and is challenging since there are no paths and it is protected by the villagers. This forest reserve very steep. Getting back up is also tricky! has a dense and lush forest and it is not often visited. A visitor needs definitely a local guide Misalai village to enter the forest. In the forest you can find Next to the Misalai village there is a Kwevumo historical “graves”. In the past, children born village forest reserve. The forest is a source of with disabilities and people who were believed fresh water for the village. It has been said that to be witches were thrown down from the cliff there is a spring in the summit of the hill. In or executed. the forest the main attractions, among the ani- There are no sculls or bones visible, but mals, is the Kibamiza Wai rock, which roughly the place has a significant cultural value to the translated means “the missing couple”. At

View to Lwengera river valley, Ubiri Village. villagers and its history. From the forest, you Kibamiza Wai there used to be a cave. In the

26 olden days, young couples were sent together Vuga village © Elina Piekkola to live in this cave before they got married. (outside the map, North from Zirai Village) During their stay, they were supposed to get Vuga village is situated high up on the hill to know each other better but there were also and the view over the landscape is magnifi- some rules that needed to be followed. Unfor- cent. In Vuga village forest reserve (24 hec- tunately these rules were broken one day by a tares) there is also a ritual site and plenty of couple and because of this the cave was closed, different animals. Next to the village, on a a stone fell down and shut the cave. This cou- hilltop, you can see the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro ple were never found and the place was named on a good weather. On the way back to the after them. Today, if you visit the place you village you can enjoy the open views over can see that the fallen rock is leaning towards the plains. Vuga village has a small accom- a big tree. There is also a nice view point from modation place where you can stay but there the rock. is no running water and the restrooms are outdoors. Zirai village In Kizingata village forest reserve, next to Zirai Ubiri village village, there are some big trees and a ritual Uribi village is rarely visited by tourists, cave. In order to visit the cave a sacrifice must like most of the other villages outside of the be made to the village ancestors. This includes Amani Nature Reserve. A local Roman Catho- buying a rooster and local alcohol and taking lic priest, from the Amani Nature Reserve, them into the cave. Then the rooster will be Father Baruti, manages ongoing projects to sacrificed inside the cave and later in the even- plant more trees into the village area. In the ing, the villagers will enjoy the meal together village there are no accommodation possibili- with local alcohol. The forest reserve can be ties but camping is possible. From the village still visited without entering the cave. The cave you can walk and follow the top of the hills can fit three persons and there are also some and admire the spectacular Lwengera Valley Zumbekuu waterfalls in lowlands, bats living in the cave. that separates East and West Usambara. next to the village of Kwamgumi.

27 Things to keep in mind / Tips for visitors

• Amani Nature Reserve can be described • Local food is mostly vegetables and fruit • In Amani it is safe to travel alone also for as a beautiful and tranquil although a re- grown in the area. Chicken and goat meat are women. Walking alone is also safe but if you mote area. There is electricity and internet also eaten. decide to do any longer walks, a guide is connections but power cuts are normal. recommended. Power cuts can last for several days. • Prepare to spend some time on the bumpy roads since the road network can be quite chal- • About 35% of the Tanzanians are Muslims • Local people are mostly farmers and lenging, especially after the rainy season. and it is important to respect their culture their livelihood depends on their small and dress properly. Please respect the lo- farms. They have a valuable and important • Do not litter and if you smoke, collect the cal culture and avoid low-cut necklines for knowledge about their environment, so hir- butts and take them with you in order to pre- example. ing a local guide is strongly recommended. vent forest fires and littering. The locals tend to The locals don’t speak English (except the have a habit of throwing rubbish onto the road • In Amani, the difference between the day guides and some staff members in accom- side, please do not follow their example. and night temperature can be remarkable so modation places) so it is recommended to take some warm clothes with you. It is also learn some basic Swahili words. • The African way of life is rather relaxed so important to protect yourself from mosqui- bear in mind that it is very common to be toes. • Some of the trails are marked but most behind schedule. of them are not. Some of them can be quite • There are no ATMs available nor any kind rough but most of them are easy or moder- • In order to enter the village forest reserves of shops (pharmacy, post office) so make ate. Take plenty of water and some snacks you need to pay a small fee to the village office, sure you have enough cash with you in order with you to keep your energy going. which is normally about 5,000-10,000 TSh. to settle your bill. Next to the Amani Nature This money will be used for forest conserva- Conservation Centre there is a small local • Please do not pick any plants and try not tion activities such as forest patrols. shop, but the selection is very limited. to disturb animals. It is best to keep on trails and camp only in the areas that are • If you wish to stay in a homestay keep in • Cash donations are not recommended specified for camping. mind that the local style of living is very basic. except if you wish to leave some tip.

By using your common sense you can make your stay better for the environment as well as for the next visitors.

The international ecotourism society lists following principles of ecotourism. Principles of Ecotourism Ecotourism is about uniting conservation, communities, and sustainable travel. This English – Swahili Phrases means that those who implement and partici- Yes Ndiyo pate in ecotourism activities should observe No Hapana the following ecotourism principles: Please Tafadhali • Minimise impact. Thank you Asante (sana) • Build environmental and cultural You’re welcome Karibu awareness and respect. Excuse me Samahani Sorry Pole • Provide positive experiences for both 1. How are you? Habari? visitors and hosts. I’m fine Nzuri • Provide direct financial benefits for 2. How are you? Mambo? conservation. I’m fine Poa • Provide financial benefits and empowerment 3. How are you? Hujambo? for local people. I’m fine Sijambo • Raise sensitivity to host countries’ political, Fine Salama environmental, and social climate. My name is … Jina langue ni …

29 Combining the coast with your visit

The visit to the Amani Nature Reserve can friendly and environmentally sustainable Other sights to visit close to Tanga also be combined with a visit to the coastal tourism network into the region. Through Amboni Caves are situated 8 km north of region. Amani Nature Reserve is part of Tanga TATONA you can organise accommodation, Tanga town. These limestone caves are worth region, which as a region offers a variety of transport, activities and other facilities in the visiting, especially if you haven’t done caving different attractions to visit. Since Tanga town area. They also provide tailor-made package before. The entrance fee is currently 20,000 is not far from the Amani Nature Reserve trips, including transportation, accommoda- TSh, including a guide. (63 km), the coast of Tanzania can be also tion and activities. Other attractions are Hot Sulphur explored in the same trip. The coast offers Springs about 3 km from the Amboni Caves. different activities such as diving, snorkelling, Tatona These springs are visited by local people kayaking, windsurfing, sailing and fishing. Independence Avenue P.O.BOX 6164, mainly for healing purposes. Tanga is a town with more than 300,000 Tanga,Tanzania, +255 (0)272645254 Tongoni Ruins are situated 17 km inhabitants. Old colonial buildings are a [email protected] south of Tanga. The ruins consist of mosques reminder of its history as one of the oldest www.tangatourism.com and tombs and ruins of the first Shirazi settlements in the East African coast. Dur- houses. ing the old colonial days, Tanga town was an Tanga can be accessed by main roads, boat Toten Island is located opposite of important slave and ivory trade harbour for or by air. At the moment Coastal Aviation Tanga harbour. From the island you can find the region. Later, the regional landscape was and Tropical Air offer flights from Dar es Sa- huge baobab trees, beaches, coastal forest, ru- transformed into sisal plantations and also laam to Tanga and into various other destina- ins of two mosques and German tombs. Other other agricultural activities expanded due tions. Boats travel to Tanga from Pemba and islands also have many ruins, tombs and other to the high fertility of the East Usambara Zanzibar. interesting sights. Mountains hinterland. Further south, 45 km, there is another Ulenge Island is a typical fossilised The Tanga region has a tourist operator town called Pangani which is also located on coral island situated to the north of Tanga. called TATONA (Tanga Tourism Network As- the coast. A hotel called Mkoma Bay is rec- The island has highly specialised plant com- sociation). TATONA aims to build a culturally ommended for accommodation but also other munity, the remains of a German lighthouse sensitive, socially responsible, ecologically possibilities are available. and sanatorium ruins of an old Bombo

Amboni caves entrance. View from the Raskazone swimming club towards Tanga Yacht Club. Both places serve meals.

Hospital. The surrounding waters have great tombs with herringbone patterns. and an amazing archaeological site. coral reefs suitable for snorkelling. Old Ndumi Village Ruins can be The coast has plenty to offer in terms Yambe Island is mostly covered by found from the Ras Nyamakuu peninsula. of history and nature. It is definitely worth coastal rag and mangrove forests and old From the ruins you can find old graves, wells to visit the coastal sights if possible.

Amani Nature Reserve and E ast U sambara M ountains in T