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NATIONAL PARK Contents Season—June 1 to September 15

Page Page GLACIERS 3 PARK ROAD 14 MOUNTAIN CLIMBING ... 5 TRAILS 15 CLIMATE 5 How To REACH THE PARK . 15 PLANTLIFE 5 ACCOMMODATIONS .... 15 Mount McKinley WILDLIFE 6 CAMPGROUNDS 15 MAMMALS 7 MISSION 66 15 BIRDS 12 ADMINISTRATION .... 15 FISHING 13 HELP US PROTECT THIS PARK 16 NATIONAL PARK

Historic Events MOUNT MCKINLEY NATIONAL PARK in . Jagged spires, knife- south-central Alaska covers more than sharp ridges, and broad U-shaped valleys 1896 W. A. Dickey, impressed by the mountain while on a prospecting 3,000 square miles of wilderness. are all results of glaciation. During the trip, estimated its height at 20,000 feet. Through a magazine article he later kindled the imagination of the world, and gave the Sheathed in ice and snow, winter and Ice Age, called the Pleistocene Epoch, mountain its name—Mount McKinley. summer, mighty Mount McKinley is the glaciers advanced and retreated, met and 1902 Alfred H. Brooks and D. L. Raeburn of the U. S. Geological Survey principal scenic feature of the park. remet in the lowlands filling and over­ studied the geology of the Alaska Range and were the first white , "The High One," was the name flowing many of the valleys with large men to set foot upon the slopes of Mount McKinley. given by the Indian to this impressive rivers of ice. Often these ice masses 1903 Judge James Wickersham of Fairbanks led the first, but unsuccess­ mountain, North America's highest peak. were hundreds of feet thick. Huge pol­ ful, attempt to reach the summit. The sheer north face, the route Majestically the mountain thrusts its ished boulders, carried many miles by he chose, has never been conquered. snow-covered head high into the clouds, ice, are now found high on ridges and 1905 Discovery of placer gold along the Kantishma River brought sev­ mark the level of these early glaciers. eral thousand hopeful prospectors and miners to the area north of reaching a height of 20,320 feet. Mc­ Wonder Lake. Kinley is crowned by two peaks. The Glaciers are still plentiful in Mount 1906 Charles Sheldon, noted hunter-naturalist, visited the McKinley area South Peak, the true summit, is 2 miles McKinley National Park. They are not to study Dall sheep. He believed that the outstanding wilderness distant from the neighboring North Peak remnants of the Ice Age, but valley wonders of the area should be protected. Working unrelentingly which rises to an elevation of 19,470 glaciers resulting from today's climate. toward that goal, he was the prime mover in having Mount feet. The greatest glaciers in the park are on McKinley established as a National Park. the southern slope of the Alaska Range, 1910 Alaskan sourdoughs William Taylor and Pete Anderson pioneered Although there are but few really which is exposed to the moisture-laden the "Muldrow Glacier Route" and made the first successful ascent high mountains in the Alaska Range, of Mount McKinley's north peak. many peaks near Mount McKinley are winds of the Pacific. These glaciers lie 1913 First party under Archdeacon Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens impressive. Mount Foraker, with an in the basin of the Yentna and Chulitna reached summit of south peak of the mountain. elevation of 17,395 feet; Mount Silver- Rivers. With sources high in the moun­ 1917 Mount McKinley established as a National Park by act of Congress. thorne, 13,170 feet; and Mount Russell, tains, they extend to the lowland valleys 1932 The Lindley-Liek party was the first to climb both the north and rising to 11,500 feet, add their mass and far beyond the southern boundaries of south peaks. beauty to the wild mountain scene. the park. 1934 First ascent made of both peaks of Mount Foraker by C. S. Houston, Many small valley glaciers may be Dr. T. G. Brown, and G. C. Waterston. Glaciers viewed from the park road, but as the 1942 Both peaks of Mount McKinley reached by seven members of the northern slope of the range receives rel­ Army Test Expedition, who lived on the glaciers and on the moun­ For tens of thousands of years glaciers atively little moisture, only the highest tain while testing winter equipment and supplies. have sculptured the mountains of the mountains can support large north- 1947 Mrs. Washburn, wife of group leader Bradford Washburn, was first woman to reach the top of Mount McKinley. This ascent was part of "Operation White Tower," organized for scientific observa­ tions and for motion-picture recording of a climbing group. The National Park System, of which this park is a unit, is dedicated to conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of the United States for the benefit and enjoy­ 1957 Denali Highway completed, linking park road to Alaskan road ment of its people. system, and permitting automobile access to the park.

3 Mountain Climbing large areas of the park are underlain with beds of permafrost—ground that Mount McKinley, North America's has been frozen for thousands of years. highest peak, with its abruptly rising icy Only the few inches of topsoil that thaw slopes, is a bold challenge to mountain during the summer supports plantlife. climbers. Because of the hazards, you Trees, unable to sink taproots into the must obtain the superintendent's permis­ frozen earth, are restricted to permafrost- sion to attempt an ascent. Skill in the free areas, or must rely on spreading, techniques of ice climbing must be dem­ lateral roots for support. onstrated, because treacherous, crevass- White spruce with somber green fo­ scarred glaciers must be crossed, and liage and tawny cones is well adapted to avalanches of snow, rock, and ice are the cold environment, and is the com­ constant dangers. monest tree in the park. Scattered Only by careful planning and organi­ spruce forests are found along the major zation can the rigorous conditions of rivers, and extend up the more sheltered high altitude and subzero cold be con­ slopes to timberline at about 3,000 feet. quered. Even the best prepared parties At lower elevations, a few cottonwoods may be defeated by prolonged blizzards. grow on old river bars, or where perma­ Climate frost is not present. Here, too, are thickets of aspen, willow, and graceful The climate in Mount McKinley Na­ white birch. In low, boggy meadows the tional Park is typical of subarctic Alaska. stunted, twisted black spruce grows. Daylight lasts for more than 18 hours a Tundra. Above the river valleys the day in summer. Most of the annual pre­ spruce forests give way abruptly to vast cipitation of about 15 inches falls as rain stretches of tundra—treeless permafrost during the summer and as snow on the terrain of the arctic. Mount McKinley higher mountains. As cool, cloudy National Park contains two types of weather predominates in summer, warm alpine tundra—the "wet tundra" of clothing is a "must." shrubby plants at lower elevations, and Chill nights of late August bring out "dry tundra" of mat-like plants covering the flaming yellows and reds of the alder, the windswept ridges. Caribou bull. Photo by Charles J. Ott. dwarf birch, Cottonwood, willow, and The tundra is truly the home of the aspen. By mid-September the first willow. More than 30 types are found flowing glaciers. Among these are the dropped as the glacier melts. Lakes may snows of winter may block the low passes growing in the park. In sheltered loca­ Herron Glacier, having its source in the be found on these moraines resting only of the park road. Soon the park is stilled tions, some of them may reach the heights snowfields of Mount Foraker; Peters a few feet above solid ice. The fronts under a soft blanket of snow, broken of small trees, but most are hardy shrubs Glacier, which encircles the northwest of the larger glaciers may be completely only by dark-green patches of spruce. of the open tundra. Several species of end of Mount McKinley; and the larg­ covered by vegetation, and many animals Winter nights are long and cold, but willows, in order to escape the rigors of est, Muldrow Glacier, fed by snows in find their homes there. This was true are enlivened by the ever-changing climate, hide their tortuous woody stems the unsurveyed heart of the range, and of the Muldrow Glacier, but during the moods of playful northern lights. underground, thrusting only the catkins extending nearly 35 miles from between winter of 1956 large waves of ice de­ of their flowers and a few leathery leaves the twin peaks of McKinley to within scended on the inactive front and thrust Plantlife to the surface. several miles of the park road. up towering spires of ice right to its toe. Only plants that are adapted to the Another prominent shrub of the tun­ The fronts of most of these glaciers Impressive views of the Muldrow Gla­ harsh climate of the subarctic can survive dra is dwarf birch, a dull green in sum­ are deeply buried by morainal debris— cier and this recent spectacular activity in Mount McKinley National Park. In mer but flaming scarlet and orange at rocks that have been carried by ice and await you at the Eielson Visitor Center. addition to long, bitter cold winters, the touch of frost. 4 5 vivid blues of larkspur and monkshood able to endure the climate of Mount Lambing grounds, used year after enrich the tundra scene, while Alaska McKinley. year, are in sheltered nooks protected by cotton waves gaily in the summer breeze Mammals overhanging cliffs. Though soon able to along roadside ditches and borders of follow their mothers, the lambs spend tundra ponds. Dall sheep. The animal which most the first few weeks of their lives close typifies the mountains of Alaska, and to the rocks for protection against ene­ Complementing the hundreds of flow­ perhaps the first to come to mind when mies. By June they dare to venture out ering plants found in Mount McKinley Mount McKinley National Park is men­ on the grassy slopes where they may be National Park are many lichens and tioned, is the white Dall sheep. Related seen scampering about in playful bands mosses. They add their varied, often under the ever-watchful eyes of the ewes. subtle hues of green, yellow, and red to to the Rocky Mountain bighorn, the Dall the landscape. They, too, are important sheep differs not only in color but in its In June, sheep leave their winter quar­ members of both the tundra and spruce smaller size and the slender, more grace­ ters and cross the intermountain valley forest communities; some, such as the fully curved horns of the rams. Both to spend the sufnmer widely scattered in caribou lichens, are important wildlife ewes and rams have horns but those the lower mountains of the main Alaska foods. Mosses have a special role to of the females are small and almost Range. The spring and autumn migra­ play in the far north; their deep springy goat-like. tions are critical events in the lives of beds help to conserve water and insulate During the winter, Dall sheep roam the Dall sheep. They may spend uncer­ the frozen soil from the warming rays of in fairly large bands on the low moun­ tain hours, even days, scanning the val­ the sun. tains, called the Outside Range, north of ley below; once under way, however, the sheep usually travel with haste to the Wildlife the park road. Snowfall is lighter on the Outside Range and there are a number protective hills across the valley. Mount McKinley National Park is a of windswept ridges where sheep may One of the best places to view Dall true wilderness; it is the home of many find food. Not only is this their winter sheep during the summer is on the native animals whose habits have been home, but here mating takes place in mountain slopes bordering Igloo Creek. little affected by man. Animals, like late November, and here the young are Caribou. Depending to a large extent plants, must be well adjusted to the born during early May. on the herd for protection from their A Dall sheep. northern climate. Their mobility allows them to accomplish this task in various Red fox. Although the tundra environment is ways. Some, such as most birds and the harsh, its plants do not lack in beauty, bats, spend only the warm summers and their blooms, often delicate, may within the park. Several avoid the cold be enjoyed throughout the summer. by hibernating during the long winter; In early June, mountain azalea, cush­ others grow thicker fur or feather coats, ion pink, forget-me-not, alpine spring and layers of cold-resistant fat; and some beauty, and windflower follow the re­ spend much of the winter in burrows treating snows. Diminutive dryas with and nests deep beneath an insulating oak-shaped evergreen leaves form dense blanket of snow. mats on the tundra and send up creamy Insects, found in phenomenal numbers white flowers, contrasting sharply with during the summer, must also avoid the the dainty bell-shaped flowers of stubby subzero temperatures of winter. Some cassiope heath. Blue lupine borders the seek protection under the bark of trees, park road, and the white, pink, and blue in the ground, or in cracks in the rocks, flowers of native peas may completely and pass the winter as adults; others cover large gravel bars. exist only as cold-resistant eggs, and do As summer advances, fireweed, asters, not develop until they are warmed by the and the yellow, roselike flowers of the spring sun. No snakes or turtles and shrubby cinquefoil are ever present. The only one species of frog have been 6 7 8 9 enemies, the barren ground caribou are The twigs, bark, flower catkins, and merely supplements the bear's main diet To avoid disturbing the bears and caus­ the nomads of the north. They are con­ leaves of willows provide the bulk of of plants. ing them to leave this wilderness scene, stantly on the move. Briefly stopping their diet. Moose will sometimes take In the spring you have a good chance it has been necessary to restrict all ac­ to graze, they follow the ancient trails of to the water of tundra ponds to escape of seeing the Toklat grizzly digging on tivity in the Sable Pass area to the park their ancestors in search of fresh feeding the summer heat and the annoyance of the wide gravel bars, or rolling back road. grounds. Primarily the barren ground biting insects. They vary their diet of square yards of tundra in search of suc­ Some Other Mammals. The varying caribou are animals of the tundra, but willows by feeding on submerged and culent roots. During early summer, its hare, or snowshoe rabbit, hides from their wanderings may take them high floating waterplants. diet consists primarily of green plants its many enemies by changing its dull- into mountains and through deep spruce The moose, with a muscular overhang­ such as grasses and horsetails. By the brown summer coat to snow-white in forests. ing muzzle, low hindquarters, and high middle of July, berries begin to ripen, winter. Snowshoe rabbits are cyclic ani­ Caribou differ from other members of shoulders, may appear to us as grotesque, and the blueberry, crowberry, rabbit- mals, having periods of high populations the deer family in that both bulls and but it is well suited to its environment. berry, and alpine bearberry help sustain followed by years of scarcity. During cows have antlers. The antlers curve High shoulders and long neck allow it the bear until it seeks the shelter of its the "boom" rabbit years, Canada lynx, backward and upward, and those of the to reach the highest willow shoots; long winter den in October. coyote, fox, and owls are also plentiful, bulls have prominent shovel-like brow legs carry it with ease over the dense The young—single cubs, twins, or, but during "crash" years they must find tines. The cows are somewhat smaller shrubby growth and through the deep rarely, triplets—are born during the other sources of food, or perish. than the bulls. Their color in spring is snows of winter. period of winter rest. The mother will In the park you will have excellent grayish-brown, but as autumn approaches, Toklat Grizzly Bear. "Toklat," per­ care for the cubs during their first 2 opportunities to see hoary marmots and years, until the urge to mate is once the dark-brown pelage with a contrasting haps a name once given by the Indians pikas in the rockslide areas; parka squir­ white cape becomes evident. again upon her. to the Alaska Range, means "home of rels and red fox on the tundra; as well Caribou live throughout the arctic and The Toklat grizzlies vary in color the waters." Today the term still brings as beaver and porcupine in the aspen and subarctic lands of North America and from individual to individual. Most of to mind the rugged mountains and their willow thickets along the streams and Europe. The European caribou is the swift glacial streams, but for most people, them are light brown, or even sun- ponds at lower elevations. Even the smaller, and has been almost completely "Toklat" refers to the Toklat grizzly— bleached to a straw-color during the early rare wolverine and timber wolf which domesticated by man; they are the rein­ the tremendous bear of Mount McKin­ summer, but as autumn approaches, they so carefully avoid man, are occasionally deer of Santa Claus fame. ley National Park. grow new dark coats. One of the best seen along the park road. You may see small bands of caribou Grizzlies may be encountered almost places to see the Toklat is at Sable Pass. grazing on the hillsides and in the inter- anywhere in the park. They roam mountain valley of the park in June. through the spruce forests, aspen thick­ Surfbird. During the first week of July, herds ets, and over the bare mountain slopes, numbering in the thousands may move but their preferred home is on the open through the park to their summer ranges. tundra. It is here that the grizzly finds In the vicinity of Wonder Lake, caribou sufficient food to support its hundreds are nearly always present. of pounds of restless energy. Moose. The largest member of the In the choice of food, the Toklat griz­ deer family, and the largest animal of zly is an opportunist. Its diet consists Mount McKinley National Park, is the of both plants and animals. Carrion, Alaska moose. Bulls weighing nearly perhaps, is the principal source of ani­ three-quarters of a ton and with tremen­ mal food. The bear may help itself to dous palmate antlers, which may have a the carefully prepared food caches of spread of more than 5 feet, are, indeed other animals such as the wolf, coyote, impressive creatures. fox, or even man. Many hours may be Moose are shy animals of the forest, spent in pursuit of mice, parka squirrels, and prefer the solitude of spruce for­ and marmots, or in stalking cautious ests to the open tundra. However, dur­ Dall sheep and caribou. But these hunts ing the summer, they may wander far usually prove fruitless and animal matter out onto the tundra in search of food. 10 Another of the park's rarely seen shore dance and variety (over 120 kinds) of birds is the wandering tattler. Only nesting birds, as well as the rarity of four nests of this shy and interesting some species, will be a special attraction bird have been found, all of them well for you. Look for ducks and other water concealed on gravel bars within Mount birds that frequent the many lakes and McKinley National Park. The dark ponds. Listen for the plaintive cry of slate-colored tattler is about the size of the loon on Wonder Lake. Watch along a killdeer, and blends well with its gray the park road for the nests of gulls, terns, gravel-bar surroundings. and plovers; and for the many songbirds Ptarmigan are the grouse of the north. that may be seen during a drive through Three species live in Mount McKinley the park. Of the latter, some that are National Park. The most common, common during the summer are the the willow ptarmigan prefers the low varied thrush, redpoll, white-crowned shrubby tundra areas. The rock ptarmi­ sparrow, tree sparrow, longspur, snow gan, a little smaller than the willow bunting, and many kinds of warblers. ptarmigan, ranges from the open tundra The golden eagle, as well as the gyrfalcon bordering the rivers to the tops of high and several other hawks and owls, are dry ridges. The third and smallest spe­ common enough to give you a good cies, the white-tailed ptarmigan, nests chance of seeing them on your visit to Mount McKinley from Stony Hill. near the heads of the valleys, high in the the park. mountains. All three of these Arctic In all, 35 species of mammals varying Nesting on the tundra is crowded dur­ grouse are pure white in winter and Fishing in size from the petite shrews to the ing June; often nesting birds will have brown in summer. Their feet are com­ huge moose inhabit Mount McKinley a scant few square yards of territory. pletely feathered allowing them to Most of the rivers of the park are fed National Park. Many of the tundra birds make little at­ "snowshoe" over the deep snow. The by glaciers, and their waters contain gla­ tempt to hide themselves, and rely on spruce grouse with rusty-tipped tail cial silts that render them unsuitable for Birds natural camouflage to conceal their eggs feathers may be seen in the deep spruce fish. However, in the clear mountain and nests. Some birds, however, are forests. streams the arctic grayling may be caught Very few birds are content to endure noted for their elusive habits. The surf- If you are a bird student, the abun­ with artificial flies. Mackinaw trout, the wintry blasts of Mount McKinley. bird, for instance, is a master of con­ Notable among the exceptions are the cealment. ptarmigan, magpie, Canada jay, and As its name implies, the surfbird is a McKinley Park Hotel. chickadee. These birds not only are seashore bird. It lives on rocky ledges adapted to the cold climate but can vary and islands unmindful of the salt spray. their diet with the seasons. The surfbird winters from southern Alaska down along the west coast of With the coming of spring, the tun­ North and South America as far as the dra once more resounds with the songs Straits of Magellan. But in June they and calls of nesting birds. The scene is largely disappear from their coastal habi­ truly a cosmopolitan one—not only do tat. For nearly 150 years after they had birds arrive from the southern parts of been identified and named, the nesting North America, but from far distant grounds of the surfbird were unknown. lands as well. It is now believed to nest high in the The long-tailed jaeger annually flies mountains of , in areas across the Pacific from its winter home rarely visited by man. Only one active on islands near Japan; from Hawaii nest of the surfbird has ever been found, comes the golden plover; while Asia and that was in Mount McKinley Na­ sends the European wheatear. tional Park in 1926.

12 13 Moose Creek through historic Kantishna, 66 miles distant, where a magnificent now nearly deserted but once a thriving view of Mount McKinley can be had. gold town of more than 2,000 people. Information on rates and reservations On the east, the park road meets the can be obtained from the Manager, Denali Highway, which parallels the McKinley Park Hotel, McKinley Park, Alaska Range and joins the Alaskan Alaska. road system at Paxson, 156 miles from the park entrance. Campgrounds

Near Savage River and at Wonder Trails Lake there are modern campgrounds. Along the park road is Teklanika Camp­ Several fine foot trails radiate from ground and other campsites at conven­ the McKinley Park Hotel. One, the ient intervals. Nights may be chilly, and Horseshoe Lake Trail, is self-guiding; campers are advised to bring tents and it winds from the hotel to a beaver dam warm sleeping gear. Since firewood is along the . scarce, campstoves are recommended. Cross-country travel on gravel bars of You must obtain, at park headquarters, rivers and along dry ridges is relatively authorization to camp at other than des­ easy and safe. However, if you contem­ ignated campgrounds or campsites. You plate making a cross-country trip, you are advised not to take housetrailers over should first obtain information on routes 15 feet long beyond Teklanika Camp­ from the chief ranger's office. ground.

How To Reach the Park Mission 66

From Fairbanks and Anchorage you MISSION 66 is a program designed to can get to the park by The Alaska Rail­ be completed by 1966 which will as­ road. You can also get there by auto­ sure the maximum protection of the mobile over the Denali Highway which scenic, scientific, wilderness, and his­ Mount McKinley from connects with the Alaska Highway via toric resources of the National Park Wonder Lake. the . You can ship System in such ways and by such means Canns photo. your car to the park by railroad from as will make them available for the use either Fairbanks or Anchorage. Passen­ and enjoyment of present and future ger service to McKinley Park is avail­ generations. which attain 24 inches or more in length, wilderness of Mount McKinley National able from both towns 6 days a week are in the cold waters of Wonder Lake. Park. The road follows the picturesque during the summer. The daily creel limit is 2 Mackinaw intermountain valley north of the Alaska Administration A 3,000-foot landing strip, for pri­ and 10 grayling. A fishing license is Range. Elevations along the way vary vate planes only, is located at McKinley Mount McKinley National Park is ad­ not required in the park, but a Terri­ from 1,600 feet at McKinley Park Sta­ Park Station, near the hotel. ministered by the National Park Service torial license must be obtained to fish tion to nearly 4,000 feet at several of of the U. S. Department of the Interior. in waters outside park boundaries. the low passes between the park's north flowing rivers. Many points along the Accommodations A superintendent, whose address is McKinley Park, Alaska, is in immediate Park Road road provide excellent views of rolling tundra and valley glaciers, as well as McKinley Park Hotel (European charge. You can obtain information at plan) is a modern installation in every park headquarters located 2 miles be­ Approximately 100 miles of improved Mount McKinley and other major peaks respect. Buses operate daily during the yond McKinley Park Station on the gravel road carry you in reasonable com­ of the Alaska Range. Leaving the park summer from the hotel to Mount Eielson, park road. fort through the tundra and mountain near Wonder Lake, the road follows 15 14 Help Us Protect This Park Fishing in any manner other than with hook and line is prohibited. Fish­ Park regulations are designed for the ing in certain waters may be suspended protection of the natural values and by special regulations. scenery as well as for your comfort and Boats. Permission to operate pri­ convenience. Complete regulations may vately owned boat, canoe, raft, or other be examined at the office of the superin­ floating craft must be obtained from the tendent. The following synopsis is for superintendent. The use of motors on your guidance. boats is prohibited on Wonder Lake and Destruction, defacement, or disturb­ other waters. ance of buildings, signs, equipment, or Advertisements and private notices other property, or of trees, flowers, vege­ must not be posted or displayed in the tation, or other natural features is pro­ park, except such as the superintendent hibited. deems necessary for the convenience and Camping is permitted at designated guidance of the public. campsites, and at sites of your own se­ Prospecting for minerals on park lection by authorization from the park lands may be undertaken only under a superintendent. Only dead, fallen tim­ special permit issued by the superin­ ber may be used for fuel. All refuse tendent. should be burned or buried. Dogs and cats are allowed on park Fires. Permission to build fires out­ lands only on leash, crated, or otherwise side of designated areas must be ob­ under physical restraint at all times. tained from the superintendent. Fires The park superintendent may designate must not be built in duff or in a location areas where dogs and cats will not be where a conflagration may result. After permitted. use, fires must be completely extin­ Mountain climbing may be under­ guished. Lighted cigars, cigarettes, or taken only by permission of the super­ other burning material must be "dead intendent. out" before discarding in the park. Penalty for violation of regulations Hunting or otherwise molesting wild is a fine of not more than $500, or im­ animals in the park is prohibited. All prisonment not exceeding 6 months, or firearms must be sealed when you enter both, together with all costs of the the park. proceedings.

WARNING ALL grizzly bears are extremely dangerous. Never approach, feed, or trust them—or any of the animals of the park.

United States Department of the Interior Fred A. Seaton, Secretary NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Conrad L. Wirth, Director

Cover: East side of Mount McKinley as seen from the air—Muldrow Glacier in foreground. (Photo by Bradford \Vashburn. Copright, National Geographic Society.) Revised 1958 U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1958—0-452762