HAIR AND SCALP DAMAGE ASSOCIATED WITH ETHNIC HAIRSTYLING APPROACHES IN AFRICAN ALBINO WOMEN IN PRETORIA, SOUTH AFRICA

M. Lategan, C. Moeletsi, B. Summers

Photobiology Laboratory

Sefako Makgatho University of Health Sciences, Pretoria, South Africa e-mail [email protected]

Objective: African ethnic hair is closely-curled and as a result is often difficult to manage. It tangles easily and often breaks more readily than Caucasian hair, particularly when wet. The majority of styling options, to enhance manageability and improve appearance, involve either chemical relaxation, physical constraint (e.g. braiding) or close-cropping of the hair. Most of these approaches lead to hair or scalp damage unless well-controlled.

For many people hair is one of the most important features to enhance personal beauty and self-confidence. Well-styled hair is seen as a status symbol, particularly in the black community of Southern Africa.

This study was conducted to identify the hair styling approaches commonly used by Albino women of African ethnicity as well as the prevalence of hair and scalp damage which they experience.

Methodology: A questionnaire was administered to a group of 17 Albino women aged between 24 and 60 who live in the Pretoria area. The questionnaire had previously been used in an ethically-approved, study on university students of African ethnicity, also in

Pretoria. The questionnaire covered demographic details, hair styling approaches and related hair and scalp damage.

Results: African Albino hair colour ranges from light blonde to red blonde. The most common washing frequency for the Albino group was every 2 weeks (47%), with 35% washing hair monthly. This compared with 21% of students washing every 2 weeks and 62% monthly. Hence the Albino group wash their hair more frequently than the normally- pigmented student group. The reason for this approach may simply be that lighter coloured hair shows dirt more readily than dark hair.

Sixty five percent of the Albino group said they had seven or more hairstyle changes in the last year. Almost all (n=16 or 94%) of the Albino group had used chemical relaxer at some point. Despite that high percentage of relaxer use, only 7 (41%) said they had experienced scalp damage. That contrasts markedly with the normally-pigmented student group studied previously, where 87% reported ever experiencing hair damage and 84% scalp damage from hair styling approaches. Clearly the Albino group is more cautious in their relaxing approach as they are aware of the vulnerability of their skin.

In the Albino group, „Cornrows“, or hair plaited close to the scalp, was the most common hair style approach (58%).That style caused some damage in the form of hair loss in 40% of those who had the style; hair breakage in 20%; receding hairline in 10%, as well as chemical burns in to the scalp in 10%, due to the chemical relaxing done before plaiting.

Braids and twists caused hair loss or damage in 50% of the Albino group who had those styles.

Conclusion: The frequency of hair and scalp damage reported by the Albino group was lower than those previously reported in the African student group. This result may be due to a greater level of care in the Albino group, due to their awareness of their potential for skin damage (particularly from UV). Certainly, there is no ideal styling approach for African hair as all styles have potential for stressing the hair or the hair follicle and thus producing damage. There is still much that needs to be done to promote acceptable hair care processes in the African ethnic population. Percentage % of Scalp Damage caused by different Hair Styles worn by Albino Woman in South Africa 100.00 P 90.00 e 80.00 Afro (n=1) r 70.00 Afro puffs (n=2) c 60.00 e Bantu/knots (n=1) n 50.00 Cornrows (n=1) t 40.00 Braids (n=1) a 30.00 Twists (n=2) g 20.00 Extensions (n=2) e 10.00 Weave (n=1) 0.00 Chiskop (n=0) % Dry scalp Allergic Chemical Infected Any wounds (dandruff) reaction burns scalp (rash)

Percentage % of Hair Damage caused by different Hair Styles worn by Albino Woman in South Africa 100.00 P 90.00 e 80.00 Afro (n=2) r Afro puffs (n=0) c 70.00 Braids (n=4) e 60.00 Cornrows (n=4) n 50.00 Braids (n=4) t 40.00 a Twists (n=4) 30.00 g Extensions (n=3) e 20.00 Weave (n=0) 10.00 Chiskop (n=2) % 0.00 Hair loss (overall) Hair breakage Receding hairline