Memoirs of the Museum | Culture

Volume 7 Part 1

The Leichhardt diaries: Early travels in during 1842–1844

Minister: Ian Walker MP, Minister for Science, Information Technology, Innovation and the Arts CEO: I.D. Galloway, PhD Editor in Chief: J.N.A. Hooper, PhD Editors: Thomas A. Darragh, Roderick J. Fensham Managing Editor: Sarah Verschoore, BA Issue Editors: Geraldine Mate, PhD, Tracy Ryan, PHA(Q)

PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE BOARD 30 June 2013 © Queensland Museum PO Box 3300, South Brisbane 4101, Australia Phone: +61 (0) 7 3840 7555 Fax: +61 (0) 7 3846 1226 Web: qm.qld.gov.au

National Library of Australia card number ISSN 1440-4788

VOLUME 7 IS COMPLETE IN 2 PARTS

COVER Images on book cover: Conrad Martens (1801–78) Forest, Cunningham’s Gap, 1856 © Queensland Art Gallery

IMAGES Unless otherwise stated, images used within the book are sketches by Ludwig Leichhardt 1842-1844.

NOTE Papers published in this volume and in all previous volumes of the Memoirs of the Queensland Museum may be reproduced for scientific research, individual study or other educational purposes. Properly acknowledged quotations may be made but queries regarding the republication of any papers should be addressed to the CEO. Copies of the journal can be purchased from the Queensland Museum Shop.

A Guide to Authors is displayed on the Queensland Museum website qm.qld.gov.au

A Queensland Government Project Typeset by Tanya Edbrooke, Queensland Museum Printed by Harding Colour The Leichhardt Diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 Foreword

The disappearance of the German explorer intentions to mount the first expedition across and scientist Ludwig Leichhardt has become the north-eastern quarter of the continent. a grand Australian legend. Much more On his successful return from poorly appreciated, but equally mysterious in 1846 Leichhardt was heralded as a hero is the precise nature of his character and and his name would become imprinted achievements. Hovenden Hely described on the minds of generations of spellbound him as ‘the most selfish greedy man I ever school children tantalised by the romantic saw’, while Henry Turnbull who was with and tragic sagas of the Australian explorers. Leichhardt on the same expedition urged Given the eminence of Leichhardt in our for a memorial to be built ‘not of bronze, cultural imagination it seems incredible however, but of marble—pure marble—pure that the most revealing archive from his as the unsullied reputation of the man whose first formative years in Australia has been memory it would perpetuate!’. The passage essentially inaccessible for 170 years. of time has done nothing to moderate the The Leichhardt of the diaries is far-removed divergent impressions of his acquaintances from Voss. Here is a young man unburdened and Leichhardt’s polarized character has by the pressures and expectations of fame. become magnified by the historical lens. He will be found in periods of depression The ambiguities of Leichhardt’s personality and indecision, wrestling with his emotions and motivations invite his reinvention. In and a developing philosophy of life. Like 1959 published a literary Voss he is introspective, but the Leichhardt masterpiece about an explorer who pits of the diaries is intimately engaged with the himself against a merciless land. Throughout world and the people he meets. the novel there could be no mistaking the The diaries reveal how Leichhardt navigated identity of Voss and the genius of White’s his way through Sydney society and choice. Not only did White have the drama then found his confidence as a scientific of the expeditions at his disposal, but the traveller, along the way acquiring the array quixotic character of Leichhardt was the of skills that define a ‘bushman’. The pages perfect vehicle for dissecting the destructive illuminate the state of European settlement, force of obsessive pride and exposing the the nature of aboriginal culture and the discord of the European psyche in the geography of the Australian east coast with Australian landscape. Voss is a stoic, single- detailed observations on the natural world. minded megalomaniac estranged from His earnest intent as a scholar of science and people, like a desert himself, and hell-bent his outstanding ability are demonstrated on sacrificing his body and soul for the sake beyond all doubt. Amidst the detailed of his mission. scientific notes are sections that allow an During the 30 months covered by the diaries intimate acquaintance with the author. he arrived in Australia as a diligent student Without the affectation of his letters or the from the lower strata of Prussian society grandiloquence of his expedition journals the without connections, capital or prospects; diaries bear witness to the essential character and by the closing passages he reveals his of Leichhardt.

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In the period immediately after the diaries he on the . A side journey to the wrote a treatise on Australian geology and Maranoa District recovered some sense of prepared his substantial body of specimens achievement, but the more enduring legacy and despatched a portion of them to Europe. At from this second expedition came from the same time he was exercising his charisma the derogatory stories told by his fellow amongst the wealthier citizens of Sydney to expeditioners. Leichhardt was portrayed secure financial patronage for his long and as selfish and incompetent, and devoid of hazardous journey. This was a remarkable the inspirational or commanding qualities fundraising exercise for a foreigner with no required for successful leadership. More family or business connections in a colony than any others it is these accounts that have in the grips of a depression. Further he propagated Leichhardt’s derision. selected his party of men and purchased and Leichhardt was mortified but responded to prepared the necessary equipment. It seems his failure by re-equipping another party almost impossible that these achievements of expeditioners and headed out again as were finalised in only three months between though the first attempt was merely a false May and August 1844. start. They left the last outpost of settlement Leichhardt calculated a route to Port at Mount Abundance in April 1847 and were Essington that skirted the harsh desert never seen again. The disappearance of environments and wove around the north- Leichhardt, his band of men and their vast eastern quarter of the continent to the tiny array of animals and equipment inspired a garrison of Port Essington. The expedition flood of historical inquiry, speculation and was not without tragedy as the ornithologist mythologising which continues to this day. John Gilbert was killed and Roper and This publication sheds little light on the Calvert were dreadfully wounded during mystery of Leichhardt’s death but reveals an attack by Aborigines on the Nassau River much about his life. The essays accompanying in north Queensland. When their pack- the diaries explore how the Leichhardt horses drowned crossing the Roper River, legacy has permeated Australian science and Leichhardt had to abandon most of his culture. These erudite analyses only scratch botanical specimens and with them a large the surface of the material. Leichhardt’s measure of his prestige as a scientist. medical practice, his struggle to understand On return to Sydney, the rewards for the culture and plight of the Aborigines, his the exalted Leichhardt allowed him to experience with the fledgling winemakers, choose his future. Instead of resting on his zoological insights, his developing his laurels and developing his scientific religious philosophy and his frustrated interests he immediately begun planning love-life are all fodder for future readers. a journey of outrageous ambition — an Hopefully this publication will invigorate east-west crossing of the continent. With renewed interest in the misunderstood and brilliant, but ultimately mysterious Ludwig a full appreciation of geography this was a Leichhardt, as well how his legacy informs suicidal mission. His first attempt was an our history. unmitigated disaster marred by appalling weather, errant livestock, plagues of insects and debilitating illness. The party achieved little more than retracing the previous route Roderick J. Fensham as far as Peak Downs in central Queensland Queensland Herbarium / before returning to the frontier of settlement University of Queensland ii | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt Diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 Acknowledgements

Martin Beckett assisted access to the Smith carefully processed the images to manuscript and Paul Brunton, Elizabeth Ellis, ensure they are as faithful to the originals Richard Neville, and the other staff of the as possible. Robbie Clarkson of Sydney Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW, have checked one of Leichhardt’s notebooks been generous supporters. Rod Fensham was and provided copies of relevant pages. the recipient of a Nancy Keesing Fellowship Rob Bower and Sara Maroske commented from the Mitchell Library which assisted on drafts of the translation. Museum his ongoing involvement and allowed him provided facilities to enable Tom to scope out the geographical locations of Darragh to undertake the work, and the Leichhardt’s travels provided in Appendix 3. Queensland Herbarium did likewise for Rod Fensham. Tanya Edbrooke performed Many people shared their historical the long suffering job of page layout and knowledge including Barry Brazil (south- also designed the cover. Geraldine Mate and east Queensland), Elaine Brown (Eipper’s Tracy Ryan assisted with copy editing. John journal), Roy Cameron (Coolah area), Hooper, Michael Westaway and Jo Besley Barry Ferris (Conondale Range), Cynthia from the Queensland Museum have been Hunter (lower Hunter), Bill Kitson and great supporters of the project. Kaye Nardella (pastoral maps), Steven Lang (Mary River), Wayne Longmuir and Michael Mathieson (fauna), Chris and Susan McConnel (Cressbrook), Errol Nonmus (Durundur area), Bill Oates and Jillian Oppenhemier (New England), Michael Organ (W.B. Clarke), Ron Trim (Woodford district), Peter Wake (Glendon district) and John Whitehead (Liverpool Range). Darrel Lewis, Bill Gannon, Tom Griffiths, Libby Robin and Henry Nix have been inspirational in their passion for the Leichhardt story and enthusiasm for the project. Pastors Henry Proeve and Clem Schmidt of Tanunda helped with translations of some of the more difficult sentences, particularly those dealing with Leichhardt’s religious and philosophical musings. Professor Wallace Kirsop and Meredith Sherlock, Ancora Press, Monash University, identified the authors Thomas. A. Darragh Museum Victoria of the French poetry extracts and Professor Kirsop translated them. Allan Davies Roderick J. Fensham assisted with the digital imaging of the Queensland Herbarium / Leichhardt sketches in the diaries. William University of Queensland

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Archer’s Hut, Durundur, where Leichhardt stayed in 1843-1844. Charles Archer c. 1843 Image: Durandur, John Oxley Library, State Library of Queensland, Neg 4624

iv | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt Diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 Translator’s Introduction

The diaries translated here are the last five new diary cum notebook on 28 December of the eight diaries written in German by 1842, which he continued until 24 July 1843 Leichhardt and now housed in the Mitchell (Diary 2). This is a quarto volume with half Library, State Library of leather cover that he purchased in France (Leichhardt, 1842-1844). The first diary as shown by a bookseller’s ticket inside the was commenced in Berlin from September front cover. The third volume of this group 1832 and together with his second and his (Diary 3), covering the period 30 July 1843 third diaries covered his period in Europe. to 20 October 1843, is foolscap in size with a Leichhardt arrived in Sydney aboard Sir soft leather cover. Dairy 4 is a similar format Edward Paget on 14 February 1842 and started and covers the period 23 November 1843 to a new diary on 1 April 1842 that continued 26 March 1844. Diary 5 is actually a series to 27 December 1842 (hereafter Diary 1). of originally loose foolscap sheets that have In this he initially made mostly personal now been bound into a volume with other observations and notes about the people Leichhardt items and covers the period 30 he met, though there were some scientific March 1844 to 17 July 1844. It is possible there observations. This diary was transcribed and are some missing leaves at the beginning of translated by George Laube for the Trustees Diary 3, because there is no title page as in of the Dixon Library, but never published. the previous two volumes and the text seems The German transcription of this diary has to begin abruptly. been considerably corrected and the revised Leichhardt’s later surviving diaries were all translation published here. In addition written in English. These mostly cover his to this first Australian diary, Leichhardt later overland expeditions and have all been commenced a notebook that he divided published (Leichhardt, 1847; Bunce, 1859; under several headings, such as mineralogy, Webster, 1986.; Sprod, 1989). geology, birds, reptiles, ichthyology, molluscs and so on. He entered his scientific observations under these various headings LEICHHARDT’S METHOD OF DIARY ENTRY for the first few months of his time in Sydney. The Australian diaries were written in ink and This notebook, which is not included in the it seems that Leichhardt wrote up the diaries current publication, except for one page of at his camp or base on the night of the same notes dated 2 and 5 April 1842, was later day or several days after the events recorded. used to make sundry other observations The diary notes or observations were based and also to write down the first draft of his on pencilled notes made previously during paper on the geology of Australia. When the day or on his extensive short journeys. Leichhardt went to Newcastle in September The paper used for the pencilled notes may 1842, this scientific notebook seems to have have been loose sheets or torn from another been left behind and from then on he used book, perhaps the oblong notebook later his diary for all his records including his used as his diary for the Maranoa journey scientific observations. This first Australian (17 August 1847-14 September 1847), as this diary was filled whilst he was at Glendon has over half the pages torn from it. In one on the Hunter River and he commenced a instance Leichhardt used the blank pages

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | v Darragh and Fensham in a half-filled notebook from his time in the back. This catalogue was continued on Paris (Mitchell Library MSS C141). This is the last pages of the next volume. The wood his account of his journey from Newcastle to specimens were later sent to the Jardin de Brisbane Water in November 1842. It consists Plantes in Paris. of quite short pencilled notes that Leichhardt elaborated on when he wrote up his diary FATE OF THE DIARIES in Newcastle on 23 November. Whatever the case, once the diary proper was written The second, third and fourth of the diaries up, the paper with the pencilled notes was may not have been present with the rest of usually carefully torn into rectangles about Leichhardt’s belongings when they were the size of large postage stamps and used for presented to the Australian Museum in labelling the plants collected on his journeys. September 1853 by James Murphy, with The specimen data on these plant labels were whom Leichhardt had left them for safe all written in ink over the original pencilled keeping (Stephens, 2007). Leichhardt possibly notes. This has been determined by matching gave them to the Rev. William Branwhite phrases written in pencil on several of the Clarke before he left on his last expedition, original larger plant labels on specimens presumably to let Clarke read his geological at the National Herbarium of Victoria with observations, but more likely Clarke, as a similar phrases in the diaries. Also one half Trustee of the Australian Museum, borrowed page of pencilled notes forms the top half them when they came to the Museum, of the first page of Diary 5. The top half of because diary three has an inscription dated the page is the first draft of what is written 1854 with Clarke’s initials indicating that the on pages 77 and 78 of Diary 4 for Sunday diary was removed from Sydney. How ever 24 March 1844. The bottom half records Clarke obtained the three diaries, he retained observations made on 9 April 1844. them and mentioned Leichhardt having given Leichhardt left wide margins on the page him ‘a sort of mixed journal of his adventures, allowing him to add additional notes letters to myself and others and notes on sometimes long after the original entry. botany and geology’ in his introduction to Leichhardt usually entered the date in the George Ulrich’s translation of Leichhardt’s margin before he commenced a diary entry. paper on the geology of Australia published If he was entering up the report of a journey in the Australian Almanac for 1867 and 1868, of some days away from his base, the date which Clarke had organised. These three was the day of writing up not the actual date diaries were eventually deposited in the of setting out on the journey. He usually Mitchell Library in April 1948 by Clarke’s gave the date of setting out in the body of the son along with the surviving papers of text and continued giving dates for each of W.B. Clarke. The first and fifth diaries were the days he was on his journey. This is why presumably with the rest of the Leichhardt the dates of the diary entries jump around papers in the Australian Museum, which in places. Leichhardt wrote manuscript were subsequently transferred to the Mitchell calendars inside the covers of the first four Library in 1917. volumes and crossed off the days as a means of keeping track of time. At the end of Diary 4 Leichhardt commenced a catalogue of numbered wood specimens by inverting the volume and starting from vi | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt Diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844

TRANSCRIPTION AND TRANSLATION Aboriginal words should check back to the CONVENTIONS original diaries. Text in square brackets [ ] has been added by the translator. Page numbers written on WEIGHTS AND MEASURES some of the original manuscripts are not Weights used by Leichhardt are pounds and included. Doubtful readings are indicated by hundredweight indicated by lbs and cwt [?] and words that are illegible in the German respectively. original are indicated by [...]. Leichhardt’s marginal notes are enclosed by curly brackets Measurements given by Leichhardt are { }. These marginal notes have been inserted in feet, inches and lines (1/12 of an inch), as close as possible to the place where indicated by ′, ″ and “‘ respectively. Ells have Leichhardt included them. Significant words been used in a few places. One Prussian Elle or sentences deleted by Leichhardt that might is 66.69 cm, i.e. about ⅔ of a metre. be of importance for understanding, are Money values used were pounds (£), shillings retained with a cross-through line. Leichhardt (s) and pence (d). sometimes wrote in English, typically lists of species and aboriginal words with meanings. These sections have been transcribed as THE TRANSLATION written, retaining his imperfect spelling and Leichhardt’s handwriting presents a challenge grammar, but punctuated where necessary to for the modern reader because he used Kurrent make his meaning clear. These passages are script, the old German handwriting in use at enclosed between asterisks * *. Leichhardt the time, which shapes the letters differently picked up the English word “brush” from the from modern Latin cursive script. He also used local colonists and used it in his German text his own system of abbreviations for common for dense woodland or forest or rainforest. words such as pronouns, prepositions, Sometimes Leichhardt merely jotted down a conjunctions and some verbs. Abbreviated note without using a verb, usually a part of the words are usually replaced with full spelling verb to be. To make the text readable in some in the translation, except where Leichhardt places an appropriate verb has been inserted. abbreviated the names of his Aboriginal Many notes are unconnected with what went informants. These abbreviations have been before or came after. No attempt has been retained, but the inferred name is given using made to expand Leichhardt’s descriptions of square brackets, except in very long lists where rocks, plants and animals, which often consist the inferred informants’ names are given at of adjectival phrases without verbs. the beginning of the lists. Leichhardt had a Some difficulty has been experienced in prodigious ability to recognise the identity transcribing Aboriginal words, because they of plants in the field, relying on an excellent are not necessarily recorded in any other memory, but sometimes he did make spelling published or unpublished work. Leichhardt errors. Minor corrections have been made to recorded the sounds as he heard them and errors in spelling of plant names, place names spelt them as they would be pronounced in and people’s names, or in some cases, the German. He included accent marks, which are correct spelling has been included in square not easily reproduced and whose meanings brackets. Adding to the difficulties of the are not clear as he provided no key. These translator is the fact that his handwriting can have not been inserted in the translation. For be difficult to read. For these reasons, there are this reason those readers interested in the bound to be some errors in the transcription

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | vii Darragh and Fensham of Leichhardt’s original German and hence most placenames mentioned; Appendix 4 is in the translation. a list of Aboriginal words. Appendix 5 is an unpublished letter of Leichhardt. Included within Leichhardt’s notes and observations in the diaries are many drafts of letters, in English, German and French. LITERATURE CITED These letters have been published in Marcel Aurousseau, M. 1968. The letters of F.W. Ludwig Aurousseau’s edition of Leichhardt letters Leichhardt. (Haklyuyt Society: Cambridge), 3 and are not repeated here (Aurousseau, vols. 1968). For convenience page references to Aurouseau’s publication are cited as the letters Bailey, J. 2011. Into the Unknown: The Tormented often complement the diary text. Leichhardt Life and Expeditions of Ludwig Leichhardt. (Pan transcribed a letter he received from W.B. Macmillan, Sydney). Clarke. This is reproduced here as it has not Bunce, D. 1859. Travels with Dr Leichhardt. (W. been published previously. As mentioned Fairfax: Melbourne). above, where Leichhardt wrote passages in English, these have been reproduced as Finger, H. W. 2002. Das unmogliche Wagen : ein written by him, except for minor additions australisches Epos : Ludwig Leichhardt - Wanderer of punctuation. Scientific names of plants are zwischen Traum, Wissenschaft und Anspruch. (F. printed in italics. Finger Verlag: Munich). For reasons of space endnotes have been Finger, H. W. 2013 Ludwig Leichhardt: Lost in the limited to those that amplify Leichhardt’s few Outback, translated by Kylie Crane (Rosenberg literary allusions. Publishing: Kenthurst). The reader, who wants information on Leichhardt, F.W.L 1842-44. Diary 1, ML C145; Leichhardt’s life, should consult the modern Diaries 2-4, MSS 683/1, 2, 3; Diary 5, ML C163; biographies of Webster (1986), Roderick Notebook ML C154, p. 9, in possession of (1988), Bailey (2011) and Finger (2002, 2013). Mitchell Library, Sydney. Roderick, C. 1988. Leichhardt the dauntless SKETCHES explorer. (Angus & Robertson: North Ryde). Leichhardt sketched geographical profiles, Sprod, D. 1989. Proud intrepid heart. (Blubberhead geological sections and parts of plants. The Press: Hobart). sketches are included in the page margins or Stephens, M. 2007. From lost property to in the body of his text, sometimes inserted explorer’s relics: The rediscovery of the personal between words in a sentence where the library of Ludwig Leichhardt. Historical Records sketch was small and simple. The sketches of Australian Science 18: 191-227. have been inserted as close as possible to the place where they appear in his text. Webster, E. M. 1986. An explorer at rest: Ludwig Leichhardt at Port Essington and on the homeward voyage 1845–1846. (Melbourne University Press: APPENDICES Carlton). To assist the reader Appendix 1 provides a list of rock and mineral names with modern equivalents; Appendix 2 lists the people mentioned by Leichhardt with brief biographical Thomas. A. Darragh notes; Appendix 3 provides the localities of Museum Victoria viii | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt Diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844

Important locations represented by Leichhardt’s travels in the diaries. Current names are indicated by square brackets. A more detailed list of localities mentioned in the text is provided in Appendix 3.

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x | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 Diary No 1 1 April - 27 December 1842

(Sydney - Hunter River) Diary from the 1st of April 1842 Sydney

Souvenons nous que du grand architecte I will sit down in the shade of the tall Eucalyptus and press my cheeks against its L’oeil est fixé sur nos sages travaux! white bark and listen to the whispering of [Let us remember that the eye of the Great its lance-shaped leaves, which the refreshing Architect is fixed on our wise work! sea-wind ruffles, while the carefree cicada sings its shrill song among them. So long as I P. Emile Debraux, Chansons nouvelles, tome 3, have God in my heart and His Nature before Paris, 1829, pp. 263-5 La Lumière. Couplets my eyes, I shall always be content. And He maçonniques, part of the third stanza.] will not forsake me!

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1 April found in the moist sand. A myrtle plant with hairy fruit was common. The violet was also On Monday I made an excursion in the found, as well as Melaleuca, but it was rare. direction of Botany Bay. I had heard much The new plant growth from spikelets of the about the bush of Botany Bay and was a Festuca can also be observed here. A plant, little astonished to have my expectations whose red flowers grow directly from the disappointed. Sandhills, like the dunes by branches. Solanum nigrum seems to have the sea, yet with a solid sandstone core, been introduced. lie confusedly beside each other, with no particular direction, enclosing trough- [Letter in German to Dr W. J. Little, 25 March shaped hollows, at the bottom of which 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: 442-451.] small ponds of water are found at this time of the year. The sand is white and looks as 2 April if it might well be sandstone ground down I saw Stewart [Stuart]. A loveable man! But by the activity of a former sea. Towards alas, he showed me his expectorations. He the western slope, up which we climbed, had seen only the flocculent mucus, but I everything was covered with Pteris (bracken). saw more: I noticed the white pyoid grains Gradually there appeared Banksia shrubs, and purulent matter scattered on the ground. low Eucalyptus bushes, and thin-leaved Must I come across the unfortunate plight of shrubs, on which mantis of various colours poor declining consumptives everywhere? were crawling about. Epeirus and a very big He had painted a Norfolk parrot in water Linyphia? with a silky-grey abdomen and colours, an extraordinarily fine piece of yellow stripes behind its black feet had spun workmanship. He was copying it in oils, and really strong webs. This is particularly so we had a long discussion on the respective with the latter. Their young appear to stay merits of water colours and oils. The former close by or at least to live there temporarily, can render natural softness best, whereas the inhabiting the irregular forewebs. This is the latter is better for depicting roundness and first example of maternal care among spiders. richness of the colours and their gradual Several distinctive types of caterpillar were blending. I was also shown some wild found: the green red-tubercled Bombyx pigeons with beautifully marked necks caterpillar, as well as a grey yellow-saddled, and a brownish, earth-coloured snake with eight-tubercled Bombyx, a brown caterpillar protruding corners of the eyes and a sting on with a slight saddle at the tail end, hairy the end of the tail. caterpillars with two blackish tufts of hair, and a chrysalis, which has now changed Before I went to Stewart, old Murphy came into a wingless lepidopteran. Two green along with his little son, who had a large boil mantis, several small Acridium, and a small on his head. I lanced it at once, and a large cricket. I mention here that one of the quantity of thick, viscous pus issued out. phasmids had caught a fly and was on the I am surprised that Duigan did not lance it point of consuming it. These insects do not long ago. live exclusively on vegetable matter. On a On my return home I met Mr Clarke, pond, around which several dragon-flies clergyman at Paramatta [Parramatta]. He is a were flying, I found some very interesting geologist and has seen a great deal of Europe little plants: a composite, an umbellifer and Australia, yet I think his training is not a which seems to be a Hydrocotyle, and two sound one. His superficial nomenclature of species of Juncus. Some hemiptera were rocks is intolerable. He seems to have wrong

2 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 ideas about the age of the various kinds of They are often of very pleasant proportions, rocks. However, his knowledge is great but small, bloodless, their features lean and and his acquaintanceship rather valuable. slender. Likewise the young men are inferior Then, again, he is fond of talking, speaking to the English. Large stiff noses, bony, narrow rapidly and not always clearly. His mind is features, a long delicate body are their very not well-ordered and he does not expound general characteristics. They are narrow with clarity to be readily understood in in the breast and because I have heard that conversation. I think I disagree with him also weak-lunged persons have a very sensitive on many points of non-geological questions. nose, it seems almost the work of Providence He gave me important information, for that the flowers lack a scent. However, I do which I refer to my diary on the geology and not want to drive this connection too far. The meteorology of New Holland. nieces of Barker certainly sang with a very small blowing machine. [Next three paragraphs inserted from Leichhardt notebook, Mitchell Library MSS C154, p.529] 5 April Saturday evening (2nd April) I was invited to Remarks on customs and on social a dinner party at Sir Thomas Mitchell’s. I was condition bidden a friendly welcome, but no sooner had I entered into a pleasant conversation with the mother and daughter, than the 2 April other guests arrived, separating us almost There is criticism that the immigrating for the whole evening. English endeavour to preserve the habits of Mr Mitchell was very obliging. A young their cold fatherland even here, in that they gentleman, Mr Makenzie [Mackenzie], who divide a day in their employment in the same had been a long time in , was very way, for example they mostly work during communicative. Doctor Nicholson was the greatest heat, and that they particularly inattentive and pre-occupied with himself. eat meat, whereas all people of warmer He is a well-educated man, who propounds climates rely on vegetables. what he knows with clarity. But, as he is rich and independent, has perhaps an initial 5 April tendency to show this independence, only One can stay in Sydney for a long time without causing an indifferent self-indulgence noticing that you are in a penal colony and that befits him very badly indeed. Mr that two parties are involved in a moral Barker invited me to look over his garden, and I must admit that it is indeed very struggle. This however, is only based on the beautiful, as is the house where he lives. circumstance that people frequent, perhaps Barker is apparently a wealthy man, who fortuitously, one of the parties exclusively — cannot, though he shows good taste and or that the affinity between both parties is so the best intentions, tear himself away from insignificant that the one party never learned worldly things, so as to devote some hours who associated with the other. Men of some to literature and intellectual pursuits. He celebrity could never do this. offered me his help in case I need it, and he Mrs Kirchner together with her sister and the certainly gives the impression of a man not nieces of Mr Barker demonstrate to me the only giving, but also keeping, his promise. delicate constitution of the native born girls. Considering that he and his wife have not

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 3 Darragh and Fensham apparently received higher education, It seems as if a new expedition into the it is astonishing how appropriately they interior of New Holland really is being know how to conduct themselves. Never planned, although without Mitchell, and mind a little vanity about their possessions; that he is not pleased. Eyre is said to be on they would probably show them off less, the point of coming to start the expedition if they did not want the subjects of good from here. I must by no means stick to conversation. Their conduct, however, is so any particular person and shall use any decorous, so genuinely friendly that you feel opportunity of participating in an expedition. attracted to them. It is, however, certain that I shall not join as Mrs Mitchell, too, is a kind lady, who gives her an official botanist. opinion with almost naïve outspokenness. On Sunday I made an excursion with Mr Her daughter is a spirited girl, who is well Lynd to the North Shore, which on account educated and speaks several languages, of the prevailing south-easterly winds is which she certainly shows off at times. It is considerably greener and richer in vegetation not the place to observe cordiality in such a because these winds constantly carry the gathering. However, the girl annoyed[?] me moisture of the harbour over it. We found a by suddenly commencing to sing a German large number of plants. Yesterday and today song, very dear to me, at first with passionate I worked at Mr Lynd’s place identifying the emotion, then, after four lines, she began to plants. It is a laborious task; we are, however, laugh and flirt, throwing mud into the fire. making progress and shall soon have made It was most distasteful. We exchanged a few good progress with regard to the present words in German with each other (she has flora of Sydney. started learning this language): the words she had sung were better than the ones she Mr Sharpe’s property, where we called on spoke. On arrival I had talked with Mrs Macdonald, is extraordinarily romantic. So Mitchell. Then she suddenly attempted a are the homes of Messrs Mitchell and Barker. French conversation. She certainly did not Everywhere the ever-varying country, green perceive that this change was not exactly with introduced trees, is joined by a blue bay flattering to a foreigner, since it assumes of the wonderful harbour, which, like Mt. that he does not speak their language well Vesuvius near Naples, features in almost all and fluently enough. Unfortunately, when tableaux of the scenery. she started, she made a mistake, which The waterfall would be rather impressive if it so disconcerted her that she continued in contained more water. English. Some remarkable geological phenomena Taking everything into consideration, I did can be observed here: the regular smooth not feel at ease in their company. Isn’t it rather foolish to have a gathering of people jointing of rocks, the formation of blocks and in order to bore each other? Everybody round holes penetrating, as if drilled, into must have felt about it like me. Why do the rocks. The rocky gully is littered with they do it! square sandstone boulders, among which many ferns and eucalypts are to be found in The smell of pine-apples is extraordinarily luxuriant growth. The grass-tree, a kind of prevailing. Though the dining-room was palm-tree, is seven to eight feet tall here and filled with all sorts of odours, they receded before that of pine-apple, once the fine piece of fruit was carved and passed around.

4 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 largely contributes to give the place an exotic Daniels is an intelligent man. He drew my character. A very large goanna was scared attention to a strange phenomenon: when from its lair, and raced at terrific speed over he cut a mahogany board the two planks the boulders to the bottom of the gully. would turn away from each other, standing convexly. Even now this place is a favourite one for picnic parties to have their rustic feasts. When, however, he cuts cedar (Eucalyptus) Once linked by a better road, it may easily timber, the convexities will turn towards become a much frequented pleasure ground. each other. It was certainly most interesting to see, in The dryness does not expand because, when the hall of a rich villa, Apollo of Belvedere the board is bought towards the fire, its sculptured in Carrera marble side by concavity points towards the fire. side with a New Zealander’s well-carved [Letter in English to Mark Nicholson 10 April wooden battle-axe and his tomahawk and 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: 459-462.] paddle, while in the high airy rooms an inlaid table in Florentine style, a beautiful {I did not tell him about my strange Erhard pianoforte, tall mirrors, and wide- chequered love. I do not know myself from winged doors of mahogany-like, French one day to another, and I do not wish to be polished, eucalypt-timber kept each other afraid of unfavourable confessions.} company. What a superb view presented itself to us from the flat roof of the house: 16 April the eastern sky suffused with a strange copper-red haze, the western sky in pure The continual occupation with the flora of tints from the setting sun; the gardens in Port Jackson freed me for some time from the varied greens and the distant uninhabited violent emotions into which I was thrown wilderness in a greenish grey; several bays by my growing passion, but I was again of the blue harbour visible. enslaved by them whenever I sat opposite the girl and looked into her roguish eyes and listened to the French sounds from her 6 April lips. I believed I was entitled to give myself A rattling noise in the piano and an ensuing to this pleasant infatuation, because I always discussion with Daniels suggested to me, strictly observed etiquette. In his moments as it were, a mechanical explanation of the of sweetest enjoyment man is enough of a physiological fact that birds, whenever they sophist to do his utmost to make them last. hear music, will feel the impulse to sing: But whereas I often anxiously counted the it is the simultaneous vibration of their minutes until I could go to the girl to give larynx walls and vocal cords that makes her French lessons, not minding the most them sing. That is also the reason for the unpleasant task of teaching her sisters, I had, ease with which we can sing in unison and on the other hand, to admit that she herself octaves. {The rattling glass of the frame of was swayed by rather different feelings. Nelson’s portrait was a most instructive and French was a great burden to her and interesting example.} remained so. She was not afraid of telling me quite frankly how much she preferred having a walk in the park instead of boring herself with French. A very simple conclusion I ought to draw should tell me that the girl,

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 5 Darragh and Fensham however much she might like me, certainly arrived one day saying that he intended to did not feel love for me, whereas she tortured embark for New Zealand and that he would me with insatiable yearning. And this seemed be pleased to take me as his companion. I indeed to be confirmed in many ways and listened doubtfully at first, not being greatly other respects. Pre-occupied with herself, impressed: but when I reconsidered the her joys and sorrows, she will doubtless not proposal in my quiet room, it assumed for give much thought to the absent one, but me so much importance that I entered into it the absent one is a friendly figure to her. She heart and soul and began making plans. Tait holds him in esteem, because her mother was going to the South Island, which is not does and enjoys his secret love, for a girl’s yet known, so I would be able to associate sharp eye quickly perceives that the man, with the natives there, stay with them for ever obliging and polite, yet earnest, is not six months or longer, observing anything indifferent. Were he rich and could promise of interest, then write up my observations her a happy carefree life, he would surely and send them to William [Nicholson] for be a very welcome suitor, but her mind is publication. I was considerably, almost still struggling with material things and is feverishly thrilled, and had already started not likely to warm to his strangely isolated saying good-bye to my acquaintances and ambitions for higher things apparent in preparing to take off again, when Captain everything he does. Even her father is hardly Tait announced today that nothing came of given a farewell kiss when he sets out on a the undertaking and that he intended to go dangerous journey. How then, could the to Batavia. Had I gone to New Zealand, my reticent lover expect more? And, after all, connexion with the Marlows would have can you expect more of the daughter than ended instantly. On my return six months of the mother? True, the latter is respectable, later the old affections would have been lady-like, a gentlewoman, but just the same buried deeply, nipped in the bud by new very worldly, pleasure-loving, indifferent ones. Now there is still the same need, but to nobler pursuits, and she looks after her how to approach it is a difficult unanswered worthy husband like a foster-son instead of question. Shall I go to the Hunter River, or loving him fervently and with self-sacrifice. to , or to Port Phillip, to escape Just as from the time of my youth when this embarrassing tie, which robs me of the my ideals had been entirely different, the power to think? acquaintance with such an aberrant character requires that I repress the feelings, which were 17 April mightily stirred up in me by her beautiful form, her kindly smiling eyes, her musical Previously I had been told that Eyre was voice, and many good moral qualities. I had undertaking an expedition from Sydney to confess that it would be neither desirable into the interior. I tried to find out about it to link myself with such a family nor strive for certain from the Governor himself. As to become one with a girl, whose nature was I believed that Colonel Barney stood very so opposite to mine. So I was very much torn close to him, I applied to him through the between conflicting emotions and, in spite Marlows. I soon realised, however, that of the apparent calmness within me, real he is not so intimately connected with the peace has not yet returned. I even fear it will Governor as is generally supposed, because not be restored until I have been relieved of he refused to put even a simple question my French lessons. A good opportunity for to him. Mrs Barney treated me with great that seemed to offer itself when Captain Tait kindness, but it was not long before I felt that

6 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 she was by no means wholly sympathetic. It confusing, just as he is, apparently, himself is my misfortune that I am so carried away rather a confused, vacillating mind in spite on the spur of the moment, that I usually of his substantial powers of perception. It give away and let myself go more than is often seemed as if he wanted to “pump me” desirable, and when I return home and recall (an expression which he actually used); this to my mind what has happened, I often find became even more apparent when we went to my annoyance that I have become too on to examine the rocks. He has strange ideas closely involved with heterogeneous people. about winds. Reid’s wind theory1 has almost I felt precisely like that after my last visit to turned his brain, and he applies it to all winds, Mrs Barney. She invited me to call whenever which is by no means permissible. According I desired and to rest assured that whatever to him the warm dry air-currents rising support was in her power she would give from the equator create deserts, conditions me. “I am not altogether French”, she said, permitting, anywhere from 15° to 30° of “I have German blood in me – and you know southern and northern latitude. He cannot, that the Germans have much sincerity.” however, explain how they can possibly get to Beside agates, onyx &c, &c. I saw a fine the ground, because the regular trade-winds fossilised lower jaw of a manatis, dugong blow beneath them. Buch, to the contrary, {Phascolomys mitchellii Owen} which I seems to believe that deserts are created by estimated belonged to an animal of 5′. This equatorial air-currents heavily saturated with lower jaw was found in the alluvial bed of moisture descending only as far as about 30° Moreton Bay. Nine teeth on each side, no of northern latitude when the sun is in the incisors, the teeth themselves simple semi- south. King maintains that the south-easterly cylinders. The processus ascendens maxillae trade-winds do not touch the coasts of New inferior is very small. I think it very likely the Holland (*do not blow home*), but are teeth, which Sir Thomas Mitchell showed me deflected. If no trade-winds blow across New belong to the same genus, but belong in a Holland – which, however, Clarke maintains larger individual. they do by pointing out the north-westerly direction of trees in high places – the dryness of the warm winds could be explained by the

20 April fact that the winds returning from the equator Last Monday I went to Paramatta, going by flow at once in a high broad current across the steamboat Rapid, to see Mr Clarke for a the highly moisture-absorptive land, yielding few days and to make excursions with him. their moisture, so that they arrive here in a Unfortunately the weather that morning was very dry state. Clarke told me that these winds rainy and stormy, which nearly stopped me are also felt as north-westerlies on the Banks from making the trip. It cleared, however, Peninsula on the east-coast of New Zealand. by 9 o’clock, and I had a very enjoyable I cannot believe that they are the same winds, day. I arrived at half past twelve. We started since not only a wide stretch of sea, but also the discussing various questions. Mr Clarke high mountain ranges in the centre of New showed me his thermometers, the one in the Zealand intervene. It is, however, surprising sun, in a wooden frame on a grey eucalypt that sailors to the north-west of New Holland pole about six feet from the ground; the notice similar warm winds coming from other one on the veranda in the shade, the the interior. The cause must, therefore, be white-washed stones underneath it. A third looked for in the interior itself, which leads one inside with the barometer. We talked a us to the assumption of great desert lands. great deal about winds. His terminology is Then Clarke thought about volcanoes again,

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 7 Darragh and Fensham and so he vaguely jumps from one thing to in the same direction, are on the north side another. It cannot, however, be denied that it and appear to have been formed by a kind is only in conversation that he so rashly and of phonolite. almost playfully lets himself go. In writing It can, therefore, be asserted that those he shows greater calmness. After a lengthy strange joints to a large extent result from discussion of these things, he took me to the seismic shocks from the interior of the earth other side of the Paramatta River to show me and that volcanic masses have burst through some strange geological phenomena. The the wide and deeper penetrating ones. These sandstone outcropped in the river bed itself, masses of sandstone seem to cover very showing the same strange jointing and often volcanic ground and appear to have often regular linear erosion, which I had observed been shaken by former earthquakes. at Fort Macquary and at the waterfall. The upper beds of sandstone seem to have The quick and never tiring man showed me formed an old sea-shore. some more places, even when the sun had They are short already set. The moon rose unusually bright oblique strata of and the basin of the Paramatta lay in deepest very little thickness. silence beneath the enchanting moonlight. Above them, in the Suddenly the shrill voice of a woman was first quarry, there heard from one of the isolated huts, abusing was an almost with the worst invectives a man, who only plastic clay with ferruginous pebbles. Further weakly defended himself. She was an Irish on, on the river-bank, rise steep overhanging woman, who had been transported to Sydney walls of bituminous and very saliferous clay. and had finished her sentence. The incident Salt, appearing as a thin efflorescence on the made a very unpleasant impression. One had rocks, could be tasted everywhere. I believe to admit that with these released convicts I even tasted magnesia at another spot. In a very impure and immoral element had some places the rock was extraordinarily been introduced into this country and that it bituminous; but Clarke assured me it did not would take a long time before it would be burn. So far no fossils have been found here. eliminated. Mr Clarke made a casual remark Some thicker strata were promiscuously that among all the European nations the Irish interspersed with vertical and oblique joints, rabble had perhaps the lowest standing. He while the softer ones showed no joints. The went on to mention that the common people sandstone was interspersed with two veins in this colony had very little politeness. I filled with wacke. At first I could not quite replied that this might be the result of a believe that this wacke was the result of the feeling of freedom and independence, which decomposition of a hard rock. However, is also seen in the United States, whereas these veins are very clearly distinguished the nations of the old continent had learned from the sandstone close by, which is fritted politeness through long serfdom. The first very much and seems to have changed into part of the evening was spent discussing a hard quartzite. A small gully corresponds what we had seen. Later he showed me to this dyke in the hill itself, and on the his geological collection. He showed little other side of Paramatta, behind the church taste in the shape of his specimens just as by the roadside, both these fissures are I had done myself formerly. True, I would found running in the same direction. They recognise all the rocks that I saw again, but are filled with the same decomposed clayey I remember only a few, particularly because ferruginous rock. The Pennant Hills, running the light obscured many characters. A

8 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 strange trachyte, beautiful impressions of of trees will therefore prevail, giving the trees ferns in the sandstone, Equisetum in the coal, a uniform thickness and great height. This strange fossils from Illawarra deserve to be after all must also be the reason trees are more mentioned. A feldspar particularly with oval slender, striving upwards in dense forests. grains of calcite (variolite or amygdaloid). An Light and warmth have a particular effect on ophiolite: green matrix with white crystals the foliage, while the trunk is withdrawn from of feldspar. He also showed me a specimen their influence because of the neighbouring with crinoids. trunks. It is true that this applies equally to A remarkable fossil shaped like a pyramid, warm and cold regions, to the latter even a three-cornered fish tooth, which, however, more, since warm regions usually have a might be a Dentalium. greater separation of individual trees: I only claim that the impetus is greater in warm Mr Clarke drew my attention to the change regions. in the colour of his labels. They had been red, but on some of his sandstone specimens Mr Clarke was by no means satisfied with his they had turned blue. This fact implies an social condition. He longs for England. One alkali or a basic salt. Potassium aluminium should, however, consider that he is married sulphate (alum) could be the cause of it. The and that his wife and his three children have decomposed feldspar is visible everywhere left him in order to return to England. He has between the quartz grains. collected material with a view to publishing it through the geological transactions and On the following morning the bad weather independently. He is very ambitious, very started again, spoiling our planned anxious about priority and jealous of any excursions. We observed, however, the one’s kindred strivings. I touched on these strange courses of two superimposed strata points several times, pointing out to him of clouds moving in opposite directions, that in a colony like New South Wales the lower one moving to the south-east, the each decade must bring forth new works, upper one from south-east to north-west. It that scientific interest requires one to look appears that the violent downpours of the forward with joyful anticipation to such day before yesterday, yesterday, and today work, and that he must content himself with were caused by the mingling of these two laying the foundation-stone, on which other currents. Though the weather is unpleasant, workers can continue building. However, the the wind is by no means cold. It is a north- man has peculiarities in his character that I westerly. This very wind would, at any other dislike. Money plays the principal part in his time, absorb any moisture and parch the judgements. He started giving lectures, but vegetation. actually gave only one because he did not Mr Clarke seems to believe that the country receive payment. Shouldn’t it be a pleasant is poor in trees of wide girth, suggesting task for a man of his talents to connect with that the dimensions of length and tallness the public by means of almost daily lectures? prevail. It is highly probable that in a hot Surely he could have been able to gain climate, in consequence of quick evaporation gratifying credit. in the leaves, the upward flow of the sap is greatly accelerated and that, on the other hand, the descending flow of the transformed sap is slowed down since the cause of the flow is not a vis a turgo. The upward growth

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 9 Darragh and Fensham

20 April two gentlemen and heard that Mr Ray had just received word that his friend Anderson, While my visit to Paramatta and the talks Superintendent of the Botanical Gardens, had with Clarke are dragging me like Rinaldo died. Mr Ray immediately thought that I might from my Armida’s arms,2 filling my bosom like this job. I had to leave no stone unturned, with ambition and restoring to me my old and must go to Colonel Barney and see Dr interest in science – the idea, the thought of Nicholson immediately and make every effort happiness not enjoyed and the possibility of to be the first to apply. I immediately went to earthly bliss, is rising, like a strong swimmer Barney, who kindly promised to have a word in the waves coming to the surface again with the Governor the following day. Next day with powerful strokes. Am I never to be in I called on Dr Nicholson, who also promised the position to possess this being, who is his help and gave me letters of introduction so dear to me? And yet Clarke reminds me to Macleay and Dr Thompson, and promised that here science and married life cannot to take me to Deas Thompson [Thomson]. I go together. If, however, I drop the idea – went to see old Macleay, who really wanted what shall I do? Shall I spend what I possess to give Anderson’s job to someone else, but now, while it lasts, shall I try to study New when he learnt my circumstances he became Holland scientifically as far as I can, or shall more favourably disposed and promised me I attempt to make myself independent with his help. Dr Thompson argued that a gardener the means still open to me and continue was needed, and that it was not their intention science as a side-line? If I choose the first, to employ a botanist. He did not, however, my ultimate aim will again be directed to discourage my application. Colonel Barney Europe; if I choose the latter, an indescribably told me that the Governor did not yet know comfortable feeling tells me that I shall whether he was going to fill the position again. perhaps be able to make myself very useful This was certainly very discouraging news, in this new country. However, while I now which reduced my hopes very significantly. think of the possibilities of gaining a footing Deas Thompson, however, thought the here, I have to face the unpleasantness of a Governor would leave the matter entirely to practical existence. I must perhaps leave my the committee. This seems to me the more quiet room in order to follow a completely likely, as it would really be a great shame unscientific occupation for a long time. At to completely give up such an important times I have been thinking of marrying for position for the sake of economising. The money. But I would feel rather upset, if I same day I was quite delighted to hear from voluntarily decided to abandon for good an Mr Clarke, who immediately wrote the inclination that has so much taken possession following friendly letter from Paramatta: of me. *Paramatta, Saturday. 24 April My dear Sir, When I was teaching French to the Marlow I see that Mr Anderson, Superintendent children on Friday evening, I suddenly heard of the Bot. Garden, is dead. Would this Mr Marsh’s voice and he came into the room appointment suit you. If so, I believe almost out of breath, hurriedly asking for the application should be made to the me. When at last he saw me, he said rather Governor through the committee of the solemnly: “Mr Leichhardt, Mr Ray wants to Australian Museum and Bot. Garden. speak to you; he has an important piece of If on enquiry you find, that such is the news to give you.” I went outside to see the case, direct a letter to the Committee

10 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844

and forward it to me as Secretary. But I and circumspect. Today the pure interest in advise you see Mr Macleay about it and science is indeed regaining the upper hand that directly. I hope you have enjoyed and it makes me think about what will be the late gale. I told you it would last required of me in the new position. And there 3 days. I registered 9.95 inches of rain is no doubt about it; much indeed will have between Tuesday Morn and Thursday to be done. I feel the importance of the post. night. The rain fell for some time 26 – I think that Providence wisely willed it so – 28 at the rate of 7 2/10 inches per hour. I must have the post. Yet how easily man is Yours truly W. B. Clarke.* mistaken, when in his arrogance he believes Upon Macleay’s advice I had, a short while that Providence should forsake its eternal ago, written to Mr Clarke explaining to him laws to act forcibly on his behalf. what I had done. He will undoubtedly do his utmost for me. Today I drafted a long letter 25 April to the Governor and took it to the Marlows. I went to Dr Nicholson to show him my Cpt. Marlow, however, thought it was not letters. He was as kind as ever, advising and advisable to write long letters to a man of few helping as best he could. I then called on Mr words and that it would be better to lodge Macleay, who, however, appeared much a brief and formal application. Mrs Marlow colder than I should have expected after my then helped me to compose a letter, which first visit. He told me that a Mr Bidwill had surely gives credit to this lady for its brevity. applied for the position of botanist and that Although it seemed to me that a thinking the Governor had replied to him that he did man would be more easily persuaded by not want a botanist but a gardener; he had my detailed explanation. I shall show these heard that I had applied for the position and letters to Dr Nicholson tomorrow morning he will give it to me. Macleay said: “You see, and ask his advice. you have the post, but bear in mind that it When I received the news, I was sitting beside needs confirmation from England.” I replied the girl so dear to me. She was translating that it was perhaps possible for me to get short sentences from English into French confirmation from Sir William Hooker, since for me and often a more or less significant I had brought a letter of recommendation to meaning, perhaps understood by both of him from Barker Webb. “Where does this Mr us, made me smile. Was it surprising if the Webb live now?” asked Macleay. “In Paris,” I sudden prospect of obtaining a secure and said. Could it be that I have put a weapon in independent position immediately associated his hands he could use against me? Can this itself most intimately with her and I was Macleay be the naturalist? dreaming almost restlessly not about the place and what I had to do, but about the happiness 30 April of soon possessing her? I was very restless the whole evening and when I lay down in my I have lived through the week in the constant bed, rather late, while my mind tired itself expectation of an answer. However in vain! out with conjuring up all sorts of images; For two days I was busy with Mr Lynd, a even very carnal desires sprang up polluting man forever dear to my heart, classifying the chaste and cheerful images, which kept our plants. During the other days the insects hovering within me. The following morning were put in order, and minor affairs were I had sobered down and even when I saw the settled. I received an invitation from Mr girl again, it was easy for me to be reserved Wooll, Thomas Parker’s son-in-law, to pay

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 11 Darragh and Fensham him a visit. This shall take place next month, 7 May if my position here has not been fixed. My Mrs Barney has gained considerably in my passionate love has cooled off considerably. esteem. She is more profound and loveable Isn’t man a strange being? Yet such a change than one is inclined to believe on first meeting. must necessarily take place, if on the one hand She seems to be quite a perfect mother. The complete understanding and appreciation eyes of her children reflect that expression of are lacking, and, on the other hand, new gentle sweetness, which is so comforting to contacts engender other inclinations. the heart and makes me see friends in these strangers. She seems to be happy. Two of her 5 May daughters are happily married. Mrs Scott, Flattering though it was to receive an offer the second daughter, is her favourite one. of help from Mr Clarke, it is very unpleasant Marsh also comes unexpectedly to my aid, now to see how he seems to withdraw in these vexations, consoling me: “Never before the wishes of the old Macleay. He mind, dear L.,” he said. “If you don’t get the was in Sydney without calling on me. And position in the Botanic Garden, I’ll make you yet how very important his word or advice my gardener. Don’t keep worrying about it.” would have been! I do not want to be rash in I must admit that I had thought the man too my conclusions, but just as the man at first selfish to be asked even one favour. acquaintance appeared to me superficial and unsteady, so his character as well as 11 May his scientific pursuits must be subject to selfish interests and to the impressions of the Last Saturday Mr Clarke wrote to me that the moment. I almost regretted having written Governor has left the filling of the position the first letter to him. However, I expressly to the committee. Its leading members mentioned that I had written it on the advice (Macleays) were disinclined to give it to of the old Macleay. me, intending rather to have a man sent out from England. I was almost willing then to forgo all further claims. I did, however, see 6 May Dr Nicholson to seek his advice and he again Marianne would certainly make me unhappy encouraged me. He was even so obliging as and vice versa. She is an overbearing, cold- to draw up for me a letter to the Committee, hearted creature, who can apparently only feel which certainly would be capable of rousing sympathy and consideration for herself. This favourable feelings in unselfish men. Yet, as overbearing seems to have been engendered it seems that the Macleays have decided to and fostered as a result of the power she had exclude me from the position, so the letter been granted over her younger sisters. Her will not be of much avail. I must even admit warm affection for siblings, careful watch it could easily cause me harm, because I told over them and loving treatment of them is them in the letter that I would get testimonials beyond question. I have been restored to my from Sir W. Hooker and Lindley. I can surely own self: physical charms must never even get these through Little, Webb and Durando. temporarily palliate moral shortcomings, If I did not get the position and do not use whose entire repulsiveness will, after short- their help, people might think that I was only lived passion, be thrown into even bolder trying to bluff them. It seems, however, that relief. {Oh how weak, how very weak is man! things are not taken so very seriously in this 18th May.} colony.

12 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844

On Sunday Mr Lynd and I made an excursion I received a letter from William, which to the swamps to the right of the road to reminded me of the joyful and, by Botany Bay. I found many new plants, comparison, self-satisfied period of our especially during the last part of our walk. studies in Paris. He said he wished he had Cycas media, Sprengelia; Blandfordia, Utricularia my perseverance and my joyful, happy (2 species), Phylidrum, several ferns and optimism. Oh, I wish that he had seen this grasses; a Ranunculus, and Erythraea. sudden night throwing its shadows on me! But my dear friend’s compliments were 13 May pleasant and encouraging, and I reluctantly took courage and hope once more. Yesterday I have been studying the Tasmanian Journal I received an invitation to the Marlows. I these past few days and have found several went, arriving before the rest of the party, worthwhile contributions to the knowledge in order to talk with Mrs Marlow about of the country of Australia. My body had, discontinuing the French lessons. She, like however, been affected by I don’t know what the girls, was busy with her toilet. Marianne and weakened by diarrhoea. On Wednesday was dressed simply, but in very good taste. particularly I was racked by violent pains. I had not wanted to see her, but I did. When Instead of refraining from food, as was my we were sitting together in a close circle, custom, I enjoyed a hearty meal, which only many a jesting word was exchanged, which increased and prolonged the pains. I meant again involuntarily brought me under the to find relief in a brisk walk, but the pains influence of the girl. When I was leaving, I only became more and more violent. Just pressed her hand more vigorously than ever as I was standing by the statue of Richard before! Poor man, who cannot command Bourke, gripped by the most exhausting his own will-power, should you not rebuke inward pains, the sun set behind a gleaming yourself for yielding to the physical charm of crest of clouds and purple vapours veiled the the lovely girl? distant islands, deep blue the near islands and green shores of the harbour. It was as 16 May 1842 if Death were shaking me and the Gates of Heaven opening. I fell into a sort of trance On Friday I received a clearly negative and, in spite of my suffering, I enjoyed answer to my application for the position intensely the beauty of Nature, because of in the Botanic Garden. It has been given to the extremely sensitive state of my nerves. a gardener, a certain man named Robertson. Never would my soul have left my body The salary has been reduced to £120, and more content to soar above this landscape: the Botanic garden itself will probably be changed into a kitchen garden. I am not never did the link between body and spirit going to go on fretting over that. The garden appear to me so weak, never the attraction fever has run its course normally and I from beyond so strong. have now recovered from the subsequent While the separation from the Marlows and exhaustion. Not so the fit of love; it takes new the distressing observations of Marianne’s roots again and again and God knows how ungenial character stifled my love leaving it will end. Mrs Marlow appears in a new, the heart dreamy and joyless, the blackest less pleasant light. She had always shown hypochondria made itself visible, making me a certain fondness for scandal, at any rate look ill-humouredly upon my own doings as repeating, embroidering and exaggerating well as on those of my fellow-men. it. This tendency was perhaps further fed by

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 13 Darragh and Fensham delusions and by neglect experienced and in one place, because on one side the bare imagined, and it was most awkward and rock prevented their accumulation, while on unpleasant to have to listen to her gossip the other they were probably buried under about otherwise respectable persons. Mrs layers of sand. The rock in this place was Macready was usually the chief topic of her covered with black clay or humus, which stories, and although she pretends to despise had come from a burning Xanthorrhoea tree. her, she nevertheless keeps repeating her We climbed the hill through dense scrub. slanders and spreading them. Likewise she Under the overhanging sandstone ledges spares neither the Mitchells nor Lady Gibbs a small Asplenium and an Aspidium with a [Gipps] nor Mrs Barney, who nevertheless horse-shoe cross section grew in profusion. treated her so kindly. As regards Marianne, The wild place was rich with the magnificent it is as if I saw my own principles emerging red flower spikes of Epacris longiflora and in her anew, and I flattered myself that this Styphelia tubulosa, while Epacris riparia was due to my example and speech. It is and microphylla and Lysinema in full white most pleasing to hear how she would like me blossom contributed in no lesser degree to to see this or that person, so that I may form the pleasant variety. Xanthorrhoea with their and give my own opinion of them, while I, magnificent tufts of huge long linear leaves desirous to know the secrets of a congenial as well as Banksia, Lambertia, and Eucalyptus girl’s soul, involuntarily experience a similar gave the bush its peculiar character. When desire to hear her opinion about any problem at last we got back to the negotiable road I might raise. again, the common tea-tree (Leptospermum) surrounded us with less diversity. Captain Last Sunday Mr Lynd and I made an excursion Maclean’s garden, however, showed us to the other side of Darling Harbour. Having many a rare plant we had not seen nor crossed the peninsula, botanizing, we called known of. Among others there was a thick- on Captain Maclean, inspector general of leaved plant, related to the Plotus of Norfolk the convicts, where we were given a friendly Island, Oxalis from the Cape, passion-flowers welcome and treated to a good meal. Then on the verandah, several legumes, the native taking a bush-track, we returned to the Hibiscus, and a creeping composite from the harbour beach. While following the shore-line Cape. Pine-apples were grown in a hothouse, we caught several kinds of crabs, which were but it was intended to try to grow them in the hiding in open round holes in the sand or open. On the lemon-tree lived a large green were walking about amongst aquatic plants caterpillar with white stripes on its sides, that had been washed ashore. Before reaching which when touched put forth two red horns the first houses, we found a tallStyphelia with on its head. These horns were probably green flowers. There were many Tetranthera, organs, which excrete a volatile poison, as and perhaps another Laurinea. Behind the on returning home, when I examined the houses, where a small streamlet descended caterpillar more closely, I felt a mild sting on into the harbour, we found Philydrum the conjunctiva of my eyes when the horns fully developed. On the shore there were came out. We were shown Croton tiglium?. Samolus, Salicornia, and several Restio. The Mesembrianthemum was seen in native and boys brought me the infructescence of a foreign species. Next our kind host took us to Callistemon. Four species of crabs were the tip of the peninsula where we found the caught. Arca shells, Pectunculus, the large and native cherry Exocarpos and a second species small oysters, a Venus, Cerithium and Trochus of Casuarina. The Exocarpos is a beautiful were found in large quantities, particularly tree, almost like a Thuja or a Juniper. From

14 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 the sandstone rocks, partly boulders piled on result of an unfortunate inclination to drink. each other, partly forming larger unbroken {He lost his fortune because of his political masses, the Paramatta River could be seen opinions. Later he took to drinking.} He was with the bays cutting into its banks. Mr Lynd obliged to leave his wife and children and drew our attention to the fact that the bay on his country with a view to starting a new one side always corresponds to a peninsula life in the Antipodes. Provided with good on the other. However, since the bays were letters of recommendation to the Governor, too deep and too close, this formation could he was appointed by him as a magistrate. hardly be explained by the water power Incapable, however, of resisting his passions, being reflected from one side to the other. he indulged in such open excesses that in In a solid mass of sandstone we perceived the end the whole colony demanded his several trough-shaped hollows and two in dismissal. A man, who had known the particular, shaped like armchairs, caught highest and best-educated society in England our eye. We could not help sitting down in and who had enjoyed a very good education them and imagining that 52 years ago a wild himself, saw himself here suddenly reduced native chief with his gin might have enjoyed to the saddest degradation. Lady Gibbs, the view from here across the surface of the who knew of his sad situation, invited him water, or a lovely sunset. Two white goats along to her parties; but even here he could were climbing about the rocks – animals not control himself with regard to drinking very similar to man in as much as they love and was soon again unable to converse with heights and vistas – rather fitting symbols the ladies. He is now one of the sub-editors for tourists and geologists! On the other of the Sydney Gazette. The humanitarian is side of the house, we were shown the fowl- deeply pained to see such a noble character yard in which Malayan roosters and fowls go to ruin through such a weakness; our from Cochin China (one in particular with self-esteem is humiliated at having to realise fiery eyes) were enjoying life. The peculiar that the well-educated person, who has such melancholic call of the Malayan rooster had abundant sources of mental nutriment at already roused my attention in Marsh’s yard. his command, yields to a physical desire, Bees were still very busy carrying honey to a tickle of the palate, which he does not and it seems that, although the flowers are dare to resist, even after the most painful of odourless, there is nevertheless a rich treasure experiences, after separation from wife and of the sweetest honey hidden in them. children and fatherland, after the loss of a great fortune and his fellow-citizens’ respect. Tired we then entered the hospitable home, and made ourselves acquainted with But ought not such a man, on recognizing some men, who had not taken part in our this deficiency of his characterune ( faille) excursion. Among them was an elderly man, and the reproach thereof, be able to gain with head slightly bent, an unusually broad victory by a clever maneuver! Each of us has forehead, a mild expression and intelligent experienced to a greater or lesser degree how eyes. He talked softly, choosing his words an uncontrolled urge may rapidly develop carefully, and I never wearied of looking into an evil, irresistible desire. Submission at and listening to him. The man, named to careful self-control and company that Grant, was Captain Maclean’s and the dispel any pretexts for indulging in those former Colonial Secretary Glenelg’s brother- desires will gradually make us immune to in-law. Once extremely rich he lost not certain temptations and restores us to our only his property, but also his respect as a mental equilibrium. I have experienced that

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 15 Darragh and Fensham on various occasions. Self-control is less I also found two scorpions there. The most certain than submission to control; if left to interesting insect, however, was a wingless ourselves, it is best to avoid all temptation. female, which had two genital orifices and was being mated by two males. The latter This morning I saw Mrs Barney. She regretted had wings and a tuft of silky hair on their the loss of the position. She told me that her body and a long fork-like penis at the end. husband was overburdened with work. The Styphelia tubiflora with its red flower- It seems that she has a greater preference sheaths is found here in great numbers. for her second daughter. She is a woman of good, profound principles and liberal, The banksias and nearly all the trees and benevolent impulses. She has suffered a shrubs are perforated by insect larvae in all great deal: married at an early age, she directions, and I suffered very painfully for followed her husband from one country to my confidence in a green Banksia branch, another, giving birth to her children at great which broke as I tried to climb on it, causing intervals. She has more recently been prone me to fall onto poor Lynd, who saved me to miscarriages. However her constitution from a dangerous fall. seems to have strengthened now. It seems Last night I was at the Debating Society. that she has reached the climacteric period This society was founded with the purpose of her life. But she complains of a swelling of giving young men an opportunity of in her abdomen. She thinks it is the liver, practising free discussion. This is indeed but her complexion is too healthy. I fear it is connected with her right ovary. But she has what they do. However, so little attention is had it for many years, and it has grown very given to the manner in which the young men little. treat their topics that I feared they might lose instead of gain. Still, the institution is good [Letter in German to Mark Nicholson, 17 and must be cultivated. I am convinced that May 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: 463-468.] something useful must come eventually. The topic under discussion was “Are dreams 26 May 1842 prophetic?” After three discussions (during three evenings), in which quite a number of On Sunday I made an excursion with my well-known people participated, a decision good friend, Mr Lynd, to Kissing Point on was finally reached by the audience with the north shore of Pt. Jackson. We crossed the a show of hands. This decided in favour of bush and soon found ourselves in the midst dreams not being prophetic. It was ridiculous of the most primitive virgin wilderness. to see men, who claimed to be fully educated Usually in those narrow gullies, during the in the sciences, nevertheless give their rainy season, a small water-course descends approval to such superstition. to the harbour or the Paramatta River.Banksia , Acacia, Tetrantheras and several laurel-like Today is Queen Victoria’s birthday. The trees. Zieria with its supple branches, a large Governor gave a levee, at which all persons number of ferns, among them three new of note filed past him, in order either to bow, species here: Lindsaea linearis, Hymenophyllum shake hands, or exchange some words with tunbridgense, and Grammitis australis. The him. In the evening there is a great ball to grasstree, Xanthorrhoea, is often 5 ft. tall. which all respectable people of the colony Eucalyptus with many insects under the bark. are invited.

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For the next debate the following question of novels. If they only follow the momentary has been set: “Is the reading of novels useful amusement of the crowd, they are most or harmful?” I have already pondered on the harmful and are not to be favoured. pros and cons. The question is very simple, {149 664 souls 31 Dec. 42 and it would be desirable that the young 17 955 Pt. Philipp. men, who intend to debate on it analyse Now 150000} some novels.- {Coryanthes fimbriatum} 1. Just as bad company is harmful to morality (since we adopt the morality of 25 May society), so bad books will be harmful. Last night I went to the ball given by the 2. Just as good company cultivates Governor in honour of the Queen. You take the mind and ennobles character by along your invitation card, and, on being awakening and forming new feelings, shown in, walk past the Governor with a so good books will have an ennobling bow. The rooms are small, and the crowd was effect on our morality. considerable. People danced a lot, mostly Therefore good books must definitely be quadrilles, only rarely changing to waltzes recommended! and gallopades. It was quite interesting However, another rather different question studying a crowd of strange faces; many is: How should one read them? rather interesting, more pretty women and girls than I had expected. Works which cost their authors years of careful compilation and work are read Although I was impressed by nothing in through in one day and then discarded. This particular, the profusion of impressions is very commonly the case. Is it desirable crowding in on me had given me a sort of that young people and old alike should read balance of mind by relegating previously novels in this way? Should they be permitted predominant sentiments to the background; to read them at all, if they only wish to read temporarily of course. Monomania ought in this way? The answer is a definite No. to be cured in this way. These balls are important inasmuch as most of the colony’s Do not give your children a novel to read respectable people are assembled there. It unless you can supervise the reading, is, so to speak, a great review, which the or if you notice that they tend to read Governor makes of the colony. I again had superficially. If you can, be careful in the an opportunity of talking to Grant. He was selection of your books, never let them read too long in the refreshment-room, and he too much and make what they have read was slowly becoming drunk: his head was the topic of discussions. A third point: There drooping and his voice becoming thick. are excellent novels, which are suitable, however, only for more mature ages, for example Ernst Maltravers.3 One ought to be 26 May careful not to give them to children, just as At Dr Nicholson’s I was introduced to a we cannot give Locke, Newton, Kant, and clergyman, a well-educated man, who did, Leibnitz to beginners. however, display his English religious Our judgment on lending-libraries must zeal with regard to German theology. follow such considerations. They must be {He is Mr Rusden, preacher in Maitland, supervised by men who can judge the value whose daughter married Mr Hel. Scott.} I

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 17 Darragh and Fensham do not think that he was too pleased at my his wife had left us, he told me his life-story remarks about our approach to study. He and about the unhappy alliance with his first knew Tholuck, which was enough for him! wife, who deserted him and is now dead. I Neander might have value. The rest are a told him about my inclination for Marianne, dangerous lot. It is astonishing that he has and he so rightly touched on all the doubts, not heard anything about Strauss. which I had myself that I had to admit almost dumbfounded that I had yielded in such a 27 March very foolish way to an inclination, which would hardly give me joy and happiness if I Mr Lynd today kindly made me the offer really had won the girl’s hand. that I might live in his house. I wanted him to have time to re-consider his offer, but I could These last few days we have had strange hardly conceal my joy over it. So another misunderstandings among the artists, worry has been removed. I wonder how Mr arising for the greater part from an excess Marsh will take the news. of self-esteem, too little indulgence, and over-sensitiveness. Mr Marsh had been To Mr Dove in Berlin with weather provoked some weeks ago by a thoughtless observations from South Head. word from old Nathan; there ensued an [Letter in German to Heinrich Wilhelm Dove, exchange of letters, and then they broke off 27 May 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: 472-477] their connection with each other. Likewise he had broken with old Bushell and his wife a It is evident from the South Head observations long time ago, and they had not hesitated to that the wind blows mostly from north – north- do him the greatest possible harm. Monsieur east, but this wind is less associated with rain. Gautrot, a capable violinist, and his wife, an The real weather quarter lies between south- excellent singer, had been engaged by Mr east – south-west and perhaps it is the south Marsh for his concerts. They appeared to be winds, which bring the most rain. friendly, unpretentious people, but the day before yesterday, when they came to Marsh’s 29 May for a rehearsal, Marsh excused himself to have I find more and more what a worldly-minded his lunch, and they felt offended by the length woman Mrs Marlow is. Last night we had of the meal and returned home. Monsieur a long conversation about Marian and Mrs Gautrot wrote a sharp letter to Marsh. I made Barney. Above all she claimed that outward an attempt to appease him, but he was not at conduct helped and advanced you more home when I called, so the breach between than intellectual perfection. Mrs Barney’s him and Marsh became an established fact as retired life was unbearable to her; she called well. Mr Proud [Prout], Marsh’s brother-in- her a stingy miser. law, is a small, active, quick-tempered man, who, no doubt, sees clearly what has to be done, as long as he is not guided by his own 1 June prejudice, but who is himself at loggerheads When I told Mr Marsh of my intention of with all these people and therefore incapable accepting Mr Lynd’s offer, he very obligingly of guiding Marsh and giving him good understood my viewpoint and in no way advice. Mrs Proud is a charming, easy-going, indicated that the decision was either cheerful woman, but she is too careless and agreeable or disagreeable to him: he seemed too imprudent to estimate the disadvantage, to have only my own interest in mind. When which may result from over-sensitiveness.

18 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844

There are other men, like Mr Rae for example, 9 June who although sensible and calm seem not to I have now been living with Mr Lynd for be tactful enough to give advice. Mrs Marsh a week. Just as a ship enters a safe, calm makes conditions even worse; she often eggs harbour after a severe gale and suddenly, on her husband where he might have kept in the most pleasant way, experiences the silent. Afterwards, when the brew has been intoxication of quietness; just as a traveler concocted, she likes to withdraw, leaving the jostled about by the motion of the carriage others to enjoy it. Mr Marsh told me that he feels a strange oscillating stillness on the felt rather happy with his wife, although he sudden stopping, I now feel the same way quarrels more with her than with his first in this peaceful household of the bachelor wife. Nevertheless I clearly see that these two and scientist after my six months’ journey people are ill-matched, indeed, they remind through the unpleasant bustle of society. me of Socrates and poor Albrecht Dürer. In Mr Lynd is indubitably a most respectable my opinion, neither he nor she is happy, amiable character. Since 1814 driven from since he is extraordinarily irritable and she coast to coast, he has seen many countries inconsiderate of his irritability. On the other and come to know the customs of many hand he does little or nothing to help her in nations. First he was sent to Dominica, the her efforts by his attention. beautiful though circumscribed nature of Seeing how these people join into a little clique which he still likes to remember; he then antagonizing others not unlike themselves, I returned to England; later on to be sent to the am afraid of being near them and of getting East Indies, Bombay, and Persia, from where involved in their squabbles almost against he was transferred to Van Diemens Land and my will. Everyone decries everyone else, but eventually to Sydney. He has a scanty salary none thinks of mending his own ways, busy and has never married. But given at an early friends support the wrong ideas, wrapping age to the observation of Nature, he filled the squabblers in a peculiar atmosphere, his spare time with botanical excursions and from which they can find no way out. accumulated a great amount of material, though without any order. When I met him, However, just as I used to try to find out about I especially urged him to systematize and the changing inclinations of the children on continue his collections in order to create board the ship and discern the motives of a complete herbarium. This was indeed the actions of my adult fellow-passengers, so gradually brought about, and we have here, too, I take pleasure in rendering myself already achieved rather satisfactory results. an account of my house mates’ behaviour, In his spacious flat in the Barracks he has a and in discovering the same laws in all small room with old cupboards, which we of them. Man has himself to thank for the use for accommodating our collection. greatest part of his misfortunes. Man is only happy and at ease when he is at one with He is a gentle and friendly man, but as a result himself, when he examines his own thoughts of having lived for so long by himself, he and feelings, and through admitting his own has acquired that kind of interest in his own weaknesses becomes just and indulgent to body, which, by attaching great importance his fellow-men. But when he thinks himself to insignificant symptoms, eventually brings superior to the rest and believes he cannot about hypochondria and haunts his mind err, the others will be exasperated by his with terrible visions. Occasional pains in the unfairness to them and will try to avenge side make him fear a disease of the liver, a themselves and embitter his life. catarrh – consumption, and strangury caused

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 19 Darragh and Fensham by diarrhoea – stones in the bladder. He is Gratiola, Polygonum, a golden-yellow Juncus, a man, who could be talked into anything and larger specimens of Triglochin procerum. by well-timed casual remarks. Just as he Goodenia stelligera with little stellate tufts of interprets such ephemeral phenomena in hair on their small petals was in full blossom. his own way, so he is also his own physician {Also Boronia poygalaefolia, a red, not very tall, and takes more and more medicine. Dover’s somewhat woody little plant.} Between the powder, salts, pills – he has everything at Callistemon shrubs there were fully developed hand, and when his own pharmacy does not Gleichenia microphylla and Pteris vespertilionis. suffice, he applies to Dr Macdonald, who The sandhills were characterised in particular like a brother supplies what is wanted. Dr by the following plants: Isopogon anethifolium Macdonald is also an amiable man, modest, and anemonifolium, Petrophile pedunculata, reserved, of few words, and these often Persoonia lanceolata and salicina?, Correa speciosa uttered at great intervals. However, where in full blossom, a superb herb. Lysinema he can help, he is prompt to do so, and he pungens, Epacris microphylla, several non- takes delight in surprising me with gifts of identified species of Eucalyptus, and Grevillea specimens. sericea. {Eriostemon – Philotheca australis.} Last Sunday I made an excursion into the Banksia latifolia and paludosa grew in the swamp sandhills and the intervening swamps on the proper. In the immediate vicinity Banksia road to Botany Bay. I have already mentioned serrata or aemula. The small combretacean was previously the peculiar formation of those growing extremely rankly, extending low low hills and trough-shaped depressions, across this infertile soil. which so vividly remind me of a recently risen sea-bottom. They have started to I could not refrain from comparing this loose dry the bogs or swamps by cutting ditches sandy soil and its vegetation with the open underground, thus providing sufficient forest tracts in my homeland. The heather fall. Fertile kitchen-gardens have taken the is represented here by species of Epacris, place of several of these swamps, and it is while low shrubs of Isopogon and Petrophile extremely gratifying to see luscious fruit and remind me of the low-growing shrubby useful vegetation in most cheerful, peaceful pines, and the combretaceans, though not tranquillity among the waste sandhills. On prickly, of Juniperus. The supple branches of our excursion we found some new plants: a Eucalyptus with their trembling leaves recall Briza, a yellow Juncus, Polygonum, Callistemon to mind certain open forested parts covered rigidum; Epacris paludosa, and an Erica-like by Populus tremulus, Betula alba and Pinus plant, which I have not been able to identify sylvestris. Banksia with its hard rigid leaves is yet {Cryptandra ericifolia} and Sprengelia the representative of our oak-trees. incarnata, which is beginning to blossom now, and a combretacean(?) {Genethyllis 16 June diosmoides} represented in two very distinct species, as the leaves of one are linear and A poem by Mr Lynd, which in a very fine those of the other fleshy, triangular and way, shows the delicacy of his feelings and whitish-green (glauca). richness of his beautiful concepts of nature: In the swamps themselves a cyperacean *Come wander with me in the glowing (Gahnia melanocarpa? or Lampocarya aspera) spring was common and characteristic with its tall When the world is so green and gay black panicle. The ground was covered with When every mountain and valley ring

20 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844

With hymns to the leafy happy May. On the death of Mrs Nathan, who died in When over the leaves of the budding rose childbed. Soft soft be the gales that roam *In her woman’s hour of anguish For each louder blast that old winter Passed her gentle spirit by knows Like a flower too sweet to languish Is asleep in its mountain home. Born in blossoming to die When the earth is glowing with sunny Tho’ thy beauty pale and broken showers Lies upon the mouldering clod Neath the glittering rainbow’s span There be radiant portals open O these be the dews that Mercy pours Leading to the pure one’s god To brighten the hopes of man. Israel’s mighty one shall greet thee Faithfull servant of his hand Come wander with me in the living spring Judah’s sainted mothers meet thee When the butterfly takes his way In the bright, the promised land.* Like a blossom swept by the breeze’s wing From the crest of some beautiful spray We’ll follow the wild bee over the mead [Letter in English to W. B. Clarke, 16 June And will mark to each floweret belle 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: 482-485.] As she opens her fragrant bosom to heed What that pilfering rogue may tell. 17 June We’ll follow them home at the twilight I met Mr Roemer. His facial expression is hour not unpleasant, though one might read in And his moss hid cell we’ll see it niggardly anxiety. He was friendly and When we’ve learned the tale that each invited me to his place. He touched upon pretty flower my pecuniary position. The fact I stayed at Has been told by the gossiping bee. Mr Lynd’s seemed to set him at ease. I wish I could interest such a man in my science. Come wander with me in the loving spring T’is the time, t’is the time of love 18 June The linnet is loud in the glen below Living together with Mr Lynd has removed And the lark in the cloud above. me from the former circle of my acquaintances. Let us gather the roses that hang on the I see less of the Marlows. Marianne, since bough she fascinated me with no other quality but Let us chace every thought of pain her pretty face and beautiful figure, is losing Let us garland our brows with the her sway over my imagination. On the other blossoms now hand I begin to like Kirchner’s family more and more, and the thought of associating We may never see bloom again. with them more closely, if it were possible, Certain alas! Is our mortal doom is pleasant to me and fills me with cheerful And short may the season be hopefulness. Just as I formerly esteemed Mrs Ere the poet may rest in his grassy tomb Sterling, I still esteem her now and even more And his harp on the willow tree.* so, as I know her peaceful and quiet spiritual life better and better. Could I win her hand, I

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 21 Darragh and Fensham would surely propose to her fairly soon. But inclined to believe that they belong to certain the uncertainty of my position gives me so Proteaceae, Myrtaceae or Acacia, although I little manly backbone that I very much loathe am not able to trace them back to species that the idea of making a proposal in my present occur here. The small bodies accompanying situation. the leaf-impressions, which I take to be fruits, like-wise contradict the assumption that they Yesterday I went to the School of Arts and are ferns. {I am now convinced that these leaf attended the lecture of a lawyer, Mr Michey. impressions are those of ferns.} I have sent He talked on Political Economy in rather a some drawings to Durando, who is to pass desultory, but entertaining manner, and his them on to Brogniart [Brongniart]. audience seemed to be sufficiently amused. I am the first to contemplate a regular course, Mr Lynd was seriously ill and is far from and I hope to satisfy the people. My present having completely recovered. He had caught position enables me to prepare well, and the a cold and started coughing; a short time interesting plants of the vicinity of Sydney afterwards he caught another cold, and then will probably arouse attention. both the first and the second cold appeared [Letter in French and Italian to Gaetano to affect the windpipe and the larynx, Durando, 23 June 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: and a continual irritating cough alarmed 485-492.] the poor hypochondriac man in quite an astonishing manner. At first I thought he was suffering from pulmonic asthma; later, 23 June that indigestion was causing symptomatic Mr Lynd received a parcel containing coughing; eventually, however, the affection impressions of leaves from the small of the larynx seemed to be the most probable Nobby Island at the mouth of the Hunter explanation. Dover’s powders 15 grains, River. Beside the oblong, lanceolate leaves, tinct. camp. comp. 2 drams [compound narrowed at their base, there were small tincture of camphor], mixt. Camph. Comp 3 round impressions, which just seem to be drams [compound mixture of camphor] were fruits; in addition oblong, pointed, almost given, but without avail. Baths, a mustard- conchoidal bodies, which equally looked like plaster and finally embrocations with Tart. fruits, and finally a small round glittering stibiati unguent. [ointment of tartarated body with an opening as if it had been antimony], and Dr Macdonald gave him pills bored through, about whose nature I am of calomel 1 grain and colocynth 3 grains(?). completely in the dark unless it be a seed. These seemed to work best of all for the relief The substance, in which these impressions of the bowels. Now the man is so extremely occur, is argillaceous marl. The leaves irritable and he does not take any trouble have a central rib, which is very distinct to conceal this that I must maintain all my at its base and in the stem(?), but in the self-composure to withstand his nervous upper third becomes almost indiscernible. restlessness. Reflecting on my present state The nerves rise obliquely, parallel to each as guest of this otherwise so friendly man, other, and then turn upwards. Each nerve I could not rid myself of the distressing divides once or twice. They are very close feeling that I, who had come here with the to one another (perhaps four in one line). thought of independence, found myself Occasionally anastomosis is found. Though again in conditions like those, which I had, these leaves have much similarity with the though with regret, yet inwardly content, arrangement of nerves of some ferns, I am left behind me in Europe. I secretly almost

22 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 reproached myself for having entered into with its gently curved line lay before us. We circumstances, which might suit the rich found patellas with deeply incised edges all right, but in which a poor man cuts a and Haliotus but no other conspicuous shells. miserable figure indeed and from which Eight-armed starfish of different colour- he can rarely extricate himself without loss tones were common in the pools of water left of face. Had I come here like that Bökkin by the sea in the hollows of the rocks; several [Boecking], I might have chosen a lower kind kinds of actinias, particularly a cartilaginous of occupation and by patience, independent one, were in the rocky crevices. Ascidium from the beginning and making a living, microcosmus(?) was likewise very common. worked my way up higher and higher. I am A very large Grapsus {Grapsus variegatus. well aware how many advantages I derive Milne Edw} lived in the deepest rock holes from my present position and, in the end, the and dashed into the water, when it perceived way opened up to me by my very education danger, if it could not get to its secure hiding- seems to be the best after all. place. The Devils Cave is a narrow crevasse, I am getting to know the Kirchners better filled with boulders; high rocky masses with and they are always friendly. The young girl vertical walls resist the brunt of the waves, is not Mrs Kirchner’s sister but an outsider – thus forming a rugged, inhospitable coast. perhaps a housekeeper, Miss Wolcott? From South Head is covered with low heathy what I can see of her, she is charming and in vegetation, consisting, however, of the an unostentatious way combines a taste for most varied and beautiful plants. Just as knowledge with the care of the household. It the uninviting dangerous coast lets the sea is not likely that Kirchner will have children, in small openings into the safest and most though this is rather dogmatic. His wife beautiful harbour, thus making permanent married too young and must be careful not colonization possible, so also the interior of to become consumptive. New Holland, which appears[?] to us so hot On Monday I went on a little walking and inhospitable, may nevertheless include trip to Bondee [Bondi] Bay near South fine and fertile tracts and pleasantly disperse Head. A certain Mr Devontree (Daintree?) our apprehensions. [Daintrey] accompanied me. He is an I must add some more remarks on Mr Lynd’s unpretentious, well-educated young man, quaint bachelor habits. Though he is nearly who had originally studied medicine, which, all the time concerned with himself and inner however, he gave up, applying himself to impressions, his attention is just the same jurisprudence; at least now he has a post attracted by external circumstances: he will with the Judge. Plenty of new plants were follow them up for some time, as if wakening in blossom; in particular Epacris obtusifolia from a dream, and then after this relapse was very delightful. It is really surprising into himself. So he paces up and down the how many brightly coloured large flowers room, often staring vacantly in front of grow here so close to one another; Boronia, him, abruptly ejaculating a word, which is Correa speciosa and Correa alba, Cryptandra, closely connected with his last thought, for and a host of others, which we have seen instance: “Barracks! Water!” Similarly when frequently, again and again. addressed in a firm voice, he almost awakens As we approached the sea, we heard the from his dreaming and comes back to earth, dull roar of the surf, and as we crossed the then sees me busy with the plants, often last loose dunes richly covered with Correa takes them playfully and absent mindedly in alba, the infinite blue, hardly ruffled surface, his hand, goes through the whole pile, gives

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 23 Darragh and Fensham his opinions, and carries on like that for a 24 June 1842 long or short while. Then he coughs, or feels Mr Lynd had made quite a good translation an internal pain – at once his introspections into English of “The Fisher” by Goethe:- re-commence, and again he paces up and down with an introvert eye. When asked a 1. question, he often gives no answer for some *The bubbling tide came swelling on time. Usually I don’t ask him more than once The fisher by the brim under such circumstances; often enough the Intent his angling gear upon answer will come later, as if you had been Nought else might trouble him. calling into a far distance and the echo came When lo! In every charm arrayed back only after a long time. Like many old That woman might beseem bachelors, he lays extraordinary stress on The Naiad raised her dripping head his appearance, and the other day he very The genius of the stream. naively asked me whether I know how to keep the skin of the hands white and how to 2. get rid of freckles. He has a lot of cosmetics, The dulcet notes she sang to him and in his dealings with ladies he even Oh fisher is it good tries to give his voice a kind of sweetness That man should bring their human wit which is, however, unpleasant for men. Just To flay my finny brood! as some people place very great value on Knewest thou what joys my fishes have cleanliness and good manners and yet in In their cool haunts below – some respects offend against all propriety of To pleasant days beneath the wave conduct, so other less clean people often pay Full quickly wouldst thou go. great attention to those very points. Mr Lynd does not consider how bad-mannered it is to 3. cough in a person’s face opposite him or do The sun beloved of all that lives so across the dinner-table, while in all other Loves in the deep to lave respects he is very clean. Little Murphy, His beauties brighten as he breathes on the other hand, who is far from being The freshness of the wave excessively clean, carefully turns aside even Do not the heavens images fair if he is only blowing his nose. In all their humid blue Invite thee: see the shadow there Since Mr Lynd is a dogmatic positive man, Does it not beckon too? whom the flattery of his comrades has perhaps made vain, with the result that he is 4. irritated when contradicted, I have observed Along the rustling waters roll as much as possible a reserved and reticent And bathed the fishers feet manner, although it sometimes happens that That song had moved the fisher’s soul I have to defend my opinion against his. As the voice of true love sweet Her wily lay/song the mermaid/maid plied Ill bode the fisher then – She drew him fainting down the tide Whence neer came he again! – R Lynd.*

24 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844

25 June 2 July Last Friday I visited Mrs Barker. Of all the Last night I gave my first public lecture on women, whom I have met here in Sydney botany. On the part of the School (the School and indeed of all the many others I met in of Arts) so little attention had been paid to Europe, I like none better than her. Quiet, these lectures that they had not even thought modest in spite of her wealth, she is such a it worth while to announce on each occasion thoughtful woman, full of good taste, which what topic would be dealt with and who was she shows not only in the arrangement of her going to give the lecture. In spite of that, the house and her sumptuous drawing-room, room was fairly full, and I tried to make myself as clear as possible. Though I was not timid, I but also in her friendly unobtrusive manner did not feel completely at ease, and because and her way of dressing. She showed me I did not really talk quite from my heart as I her garden again and below the moist, over- would myself have desired to, it seemed to me hanging rocks grew three kinds of fern, as if my words did not go to the heart either. which I did not know besides many others Indeed, it almost appeared as if they listened I did. Various fruits were ripe, the lemons more to the expression and pronunciation and oranges in all their golden garb were of the foreigner than to the subject he was embedded in the most beautiful dark leafy treating. But even if I was not as forcible the green. first time as I would have liked, a start, on the A great many flowers abound with fine other hand, had to be made at some time, as well as experience gathered. I do almost regret honey: among others Lambertia, from whose that I forgot to mention many points, which I tufts of flowers you have to strip the outer had meant to discuss, but not to have discussed involucral leaves, and bite the base to suck them is just as bad as having discussed them out the honey. Styphelia, Epacris, and Banksia without making an impression, and perhaps are all well provided with it. I also found it the former is better than the latter. They said in a shrub-like Salvia in Mrs Barker’s garden. I had not spoken loudly and slowly enough; I shall try to remedy this failing as I gain 30 June greater freedom in expressing myself. I find it is pleasing to have a kindly disposed person Last Sunday I made another trip to South before me; on the other hand it is unpleasant Head without, however, collecting significant to face unfriendly people, who are constantly treasures. Just the same I found Marsdenia on the watch for mistakes. rostrata?, Melaleuca viridiflora and a peculiar Loranthus on Banksia integrifolia, which sends 5 July a runner down the tree: the latter attaches on the bark from place to place. On Sunday an excursion in the swamps to the side of Botany Bay behind Mr Braim spoke to me about lessons in botany Montgomery’s property. Euphrasia paludosa at Sydney College. Dr Nicholson said: “Only in flower, Marsdenia rostrata on the Surry do it, if you are adequately remunerated.” Hills in fruit. Bursaria diagonally behind He made some strange remarks about the Montgomery’s. Mr Devontrie noticed a grey Kirchners, or he made them in a peculiar snake and killed it. I think it is venomous, way. Thus he said: “Miss Wolcot is not a full and, to judge from Guerin, it belongs to the sister!” I don’t understand him, but shall ask Trimeresurus. On the edge of the swamp him again when the occasion offers. Desvauxia billardieri is common.

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The vegetation commences: new flower- to achieve immediately in the superficial buds in Monotoca elliptica. Formation of lecture what we were able to achieve in new shoots also in Casuarina. The newly ourselves only gradually by persevering commenced month will most likely rouse mental efforts. I think it is necessary to pick all the dormant forces. Some plants, for out only the more familiar points, then set example Ficus macrophylla, seem to vegetate out from them, and use them to illustrate all the time, without developing shoots. I am some general laws. anxious to see when our introduced trees, Mr Lynd is still troubled with a bad cough, which have all shed their leaves, will begin and as he continually broods on its possible to bud. causes, he aggravates the trouble instead of lessening it by diverting his mind. His 10 July conduct towards me is equally friendly, and I patiently put up with the often disagreeable *It is not beauty I demand peculiarities of the aging friendly bachelor. A crystal brow the moon’s despair Or the snows daughter a far land Or mermaids yellow pride of hair 16 July These are but gauds, nay what is less Yesterday I gave my third lecture. I had only a They are but empty shrines of pride small audience. As however, I had some very He who the mermaids hair would win interesting points to discuss, and interspersed Is mostly strangled in with tide as many physiological facts as possible at the And what are cheeks but ensigns oft same time, I sustained attention for at least That wave hot youth to fields of blood the first half of the lecture. That my lectures Did Helen’s breast t’was ere so soft in Sydney are attended by only about 20 to To Greece or Ilium much good? 25 persons, cannot surprise one, who has Whom with a loyal mind temptation I seen Brogniart’s, Mirbel’s, or Kunth’s often could trust poorly attended lectures, to say nothing of One in whose faithful bosom I Flourens’s and Serres’s lectures. Could pour my secret heart of woes; When, last Sunday, the weather made me Like the care burdened honey-fly break off my botanical excursion, I went That hides his murmurs in the rose.* 4 to church kneeling[?] in prayer there in Last Friday I gave my second lecture on the quiet to bring memories of my beloved the inner structure and elementary organs family again vividly before my mind. I of plants. I had made some tolerable saw my dear mother, my sisters, brothers- diagrams to make the obscure position in-law and brothers – and the agonizing of the plant organs obvious. There were thought struck me: Will you ever see them about 25 to 30 people attending. I spoke again in this life? – I have never dared yet more easily and loudly than the first time. to say “Never!” Whenever a friend bade me I felt I had made significant progress. It farewell, I parted from him in the hope of is, however, extremely difficult to arouse seeing him again, wherever he might bend in other persons the same interest, which his steps. we ourselves take. We have made it the But the traveller gradually becomes tired; he subject of long studies, and often only after longs for a quiet place, and this weariness, prolonged efforts come to a complete and this longing for quietness may then induce satisfactory understanding. Here we want him to settle in his turn in the lonely distance

26 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 and, pre-occupied as he is with his own College. The boy, with his ideas, had already feelings and ambitions, to allow the memory matured into a young man, and too much of his far-away friends and family to fade attention given to him by his parents had away. Will this happen to me too? While filled him with excessive self-conceit. But he in Sydney I have been swayed by various is a good, straightforward person of great sentiments. The inclination to M.M. made promise, once stricter discipline has polished me brood constantly over the possibility his rough uncouth manners somewhat. of making myself independent as soon as Here again it is interesting to observe an possible. The quietness of the Botanic Garden old bachelor’s conflict with an open-minded led me extremely close to this possibility, but boy, who feels himself independent. It my time had not yet come. My contact with would often have been extremely ridiculous, Clarke and Lynd again raised my scientific had Mr Lynd’s illness not put him in such projects above all others: my connection to a state of irritability that it often grieves me M. was looser, I rarely saw the girl, and since very much to see him objecting to the bad no advance had become obvious to fasten habits of the boy. On the other hand, I often my liking, the impressions, perhaps only feel sorry for the boy when Lynd most cold- sensuous, gradually receded into the realm of bloodedly hurts his vanity. To what extent night where even now it caresses the sleeper these two people will derive any benefit with pleasant dreams. On the other hand the from their living together is not yet clear to acquaintance with the Kirchners had given me. Here my own mitigating hand, which rise to several plans, which rapidly possessed is available to both sides as a comparative my whole mind, putting it in a kind of fever, remedy, seems necessary in order to achieve but gradually after its critical stage fell just the happy medium. back into minor limits again. Mr Braim, the I have frequently seen Mrs Barney again. She Director of Sydney College, roused similar has treated me in a very friendly manner, ideas; my lectures in the School of Arts had and he has given me signs of goodwill. been started with sanguine expectations as Whether she would treat me as a friend in well, and several fortuitous circumstances an emergency is a different question, which I had on their part contributed to that state of do not want to answer, although I admit that agitation, in which my mind had been during I believe she would. I respect her and hold these last two months, but in spite of this her in high esteem and would do my utmost movement into dreamy moments most of my to be helpful to her. People have raised time had been devoted to study and work. doubts about her; calling her superficial, – Each Sunday I made botanical excursions her virtue only put in mere sounding words. with Mr Lynd or Mr Daintrie, which yielded Why should I doubt a person unless I have abundantly at first, later on poorly, of course, been convinced by obvious proofs of the as we gradually collected a larger quantity invalidity of his or her virtue. Poor unlucky of plants. Preparing the lectures had also Macconochie would unfortunately answer required much time, and then molluscs, me with a shocking example, but he really birds, and reptiles had required my attention ought to have had doubts – his trust was from time to time. overhasty! A relative of Mr Lynd, Mr Robertson, Dr Macdonald (surgeon at the military a magistrate from the Hunter River (in hospital) shows an inclination for botany, Mushelbrook) had sent along his 14-year- and I like the simple, modest, unpretentious old son to us, so that he could attend Sydney man. I like such a man even better than Lynd.

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It often seems to me as if Lynd becomes Mitchell is an extremely friendly and obliging edgy whenever I know something as well woman, but in her, too, I feel the coldness, as he does, although I do take care to avoid which has now and again alarmed me in Mrs any semblance of pretention or coquetry. Barney. Though she was so good natured, I I gladly concede every man his right, and should almost say obligingly kind to me, and it is a pleasure to me to recognise the fine although Mrs Mai also spoke highly of her knowledge, which Lynd possesses, for friendliness, there was a coldness towards the example. But why should I not claim the latter, which was, under the circumstances, same for myself? After all he does know what very unpleasant for me. infinite pains I have bestowed on learning and making progress. 20 August Last night I read ‘The Lady of the Lake’ – 17 July and the description of Rodrigue and the A change in the weather has set in with the scene with Graeme on the island must have last change of the moon, first quarter and we left a vivid impression.5 In fact I had a very have an extraordinary amount of rain the strange dream which caused me to wake last two days instead of cold, dry healthy up, immediately repeating it to myself, weather. The precipitation seems to take whereupon I dreamt it again. The dream place in each air molecule, just as on my was like this: I had the intention of going to arrival in Port Jackson in February. the Marlows. As I arrived at the door of the [Letter in German to William Nicholson, 17 room, I did not find the family; they were in July 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: 498-512.] fact at lunch. For a joke I took the trunk of a young tree and put it across the door and as I went through the gate, I did the same. 5 August I turned to the left through a small garden, I specify further here what I have already and as I walked away, the children entered mentioned in the letter. The Kirchners by another gate. I greeted them, particularly introduced me to Mr Walker Scott; he in turn Marianne, whom I embraced most amicably to his sister, Mrs Mitchell. I saw the three and caressed: she suffered it in silence without brothers: Robert Scott and Captain Scott. responding, however. Soon afterwards she While Walker fascinated and amused me by returned to the room. I stayed and jested with his kind good humour, I felt that in Robert the children. At this moment I saw a young I faced a thinking man, whose life is always man paying his attentions to Marianne, directed towards the practical side, which, and she was talking with him in a friendly however, he seeks to grasp and command way. Suddenly I was seized by jealousy and with his mind. He is called no other than wished to be off. I could not find my hat. A ‘mad Bob’. Why? – is not clear to me yet. young man gave it to me and I dashed away He has done a great deal to acclimatise the like mad, down a steep hill. In the valley industries of the Old World on Australian there was a city with very busy streets. I soil, and as he has extensive properties had a cigar in my mouth; as I hastened up (80,000 acres) on the Hunter River, this was towards a steep slope, the cigar dropped easier for him than for others. Practical men from my mouth. Endeavouring to look for it, of the like have attracted me at all times. Am I whirled around towards the slope, grabbed I deceiving myself, if I believe that I could a solitary overhanging tree, which bent over be of greater avail in the practical field? Mrs the slope taking me with it – I swung over

28 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 the precipice – then the tree swung, and I fell part of the world. So I do not in fact know down!! The first time I really fell down!! But yet how things will be in Newcastle. At first at the bottom I saw a tree, which I hoped to I thought the Mitchells would leave Sydney grab on to, but before reaching it I woke up. for Newcastle. Now, however, they appear I thought it over and over again, wishing to to want to stay in Sydney. Mrs Mitchell grasp the psychological connexion, which wants me to be tutor to her two children. I likely existed. On the other hand, however, have made her no promises, but if I return I wanted to learn a real lesson from this to Sydney, I shall probably accept the offer. apparent disaster. I told myself that this Mr Braim asked for my assistance at Sydney old infatuation, if I did not take care of College, but as I know so little about my myself, might lead me onto a precipice from future, I am not in a position to give him any which nothing could save me. If I wished to definite reply. If it is not possible for me to cultivate this passionate love or inclination, I obtain a secure, fixed position here, all my must wait at least until the girl really showed activity must again be concentrated on home; me her true, sincere affection, so that neither I must work so that I shall be remunerated I nor she herself should be undone as a result there on my return. If, however, it is possible of one’s own passion. to become established and useful (in fact I consider the two terms almost identical) in 29 August a delightful climate and in a little-explored country, I am quite willing to renounce the I lent old Murphy £50 (in words: fifty idea of seeing my dear ones back on home pounds) on 29 August 1842. soil again.

4 September As I was ready as early as a week ago for the journey to Newcastle, I said good-bye to I have now put Lynd’s botanical collection the Marlows last Saturday week. Although and my own in order as much as possible they knew I was coming, Marianne was and identified the plants except for a few. out. She had accepted an invitation. My With the duplicates I sought to win friends inclination for the girl was subject to constant for science, and everywhere they have fluctuation. Whenever I met her, my passion started small collections, to which I added was stirred again and often inflamed the the names of the plants. So the daughters mind to unrestrained frenzy. After such a of Proud [Prout] and Barney, the younger fever I would gradually sink into less agitated Murphy, Dr Macdonald, Dr Nicholson and brooding, which often made me think that I old Rennie have rather pretty collections. I had become master of the foolish inclination. made several excursions with the pupils of Often I went to the Marlows full of joyous the Australian and the Sydney Colleges, and hope, with overflowing heart, and, when many of the boys showed a keen interest, I saw the cold, seemingly selfish girl and which will, however, quickly cool down pressed her hand, all possibility of further unless it is carefully nursed. I am now on the love suddenly appeared to be extinguished, point of going to Newcastle to live there for and the radiant glow was reduced to a mere some time with Mr Walker Scott. By chance brotherly or amicable feeling. But as this I heard that the little girls of the Kirchner condition was changing and fluctuating, I family are very close friends of his. became deeply convinced that such a girl was In this colony our plans are perhaps more unsuited for me. I wished I had never seen subject to constant changes than in any other her, or never again had to associate with the

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Marlows, for never did an acquaintanceship regularly, if I was not stopped from doing so cause me such frequent and deep pain. When by the family’s peculiar eccentricities. After I arrived on Saturday and did not meet the such soliloquies I always concluded with the girl, I felt terribly hurt. philosophical consolation that I was working for my science and that, like Socrates, I was However modest a man may be, he still going ‘man-hunting’ for its sake! So I went believes he is certain of some attention; he to the Barneys, and they gave me a friendly makes light wistful claims and is grieved and warm reception as usual! The girl was so when he does not receive the attention friendly, so sincere, so considerate, so content expected. So it was here: I was fond of the girl and then busy in the house, and sympathetic and hoped she would at least so esteem me at parting; every corner of her face seemed that a simple farewell would matter to her. On to be animated by so much warmth and the contrary, she showed that she preferred kind and lasting childlike feeling, without a genial evening in perhaps rather shallow- relapsing into that empty apathetic look, that I minded company. I could have listened felt very much attracted by her that I was very to many other insinuations of my injured good to the girl and could have kissed her! vanity, but I repressed any ill feeling and was Since a man cannot live without love, why as friendly and cheerful as possible. But my should I not take possession of the lovely girl, affection for Marianne seemed to be over for faithfully keeping and cultivating her memory good. I was sad and disappointed, yet I felt within me in the same way I once loved Lottie free in a way. Her mother invited me for tea or Lucy and that in a much more ideal way? on the following day: I did not go! She told And should she not safeguard me against a me that on Monday Marianne would be at the demon, which for ever disturbed my peace of Barneys’. I had the intention of taking leave mind, which never gave me satisfaction and of Mrs Barney on Monday, but now fearing which very surely was largely carnal desire? a meeting with Marianne, I put my visit to Barneys’ off until Tuesday! This lady had *R.Lynd. Esq., always received me amicably, but occasionally Barrack Master on parting, she gave me such a peculiar look Sydney. that I began to think that here too I had to deal In an envelope for the only with outward festoons of words and verbosity, and when I had turned my back, Barrack Sergeant, Newcastle. sarcastic remarks might have ridiculed the Please forward this letter as usually* foolish man, who had endeavoured to win the fresh hearts of the children for his science. *MDF [My dear friend] I take the liberty of Often when I came down from Cumberland sending you the drawing of a mushroom, Plain with plants for Miss Jane and stopped which was found by Mr Lynd at the just below Mitchell’s house, fascinated by the commencement of April in the […] Sidney. I shall add an explanation of the different lovely view across the harbour, I wondered: figures, pp [and so forth]. How will people interpret your friendly zeal? Will they not say: you came to flatter the rich, No. 1. Natural size: the pileus is divided to win their favour, to seek goodness knows into 8 rays, each of which is deeply divided what! I always replied to myself: do I not also bifurcate, the divisions being drawn out very help the poor? Do I make the least distinction finely and twisting a little. The centre of the between Murphy and the Prouds and Barneys? pileus is perforated by an irregular hole by I would indeed go to the Prouds much more which the hollow stem which by which the

30 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 cavity of the hollow stem communicates f. the volva or wrapper with the atmosphere. A dark brownish moist g. the roots. matter covers the upper part of the disk: the fig 2. a view of the disc rays are of a fine bright scarlet, the stem and the lower surface of the rays of a beautiful fig 3. the volva α. the external β.the pale rose colour. An attentive observation internal membr γ the mucous substance with the glass, shows minute holes at the between both, δ the eradiating white lines at the internal surface, ε the point base of each ray, which communicate with of insertion of the stalk. the large holes immediately below the upper layer of the disc. (5.) The stalk of about 1½” fig 4. a birds eye view of the radiating high is hollow as shown in figure 7., the lines of the internal surface of the walls being composed of a simple series of wrapper long stretched cells, which enlarge towards fig 5. a vertical section of the disc and the upper part of the stem and in the disc a ray, showing the large cavities in the as shown in fig 6. and 5., both being vertical disc and their communication with the sections in that part of the stem joining the athmosphere. disk and the disk itself. fig 6. vertical sections of the stalk The stalk is surrounded by the volva to half showing the cells with wavering walls, its length, the volva is above walls of the enlarging towards the disc. volva volva is composed by three distinct fig 7. a horizontal section of the stalk In making a vertical section of the volva, as fig 8. the anastomising roots shown in fig 3. I distinguished an external fig 9. a horizontal section of disc and and an internal membrane, between which a rays showing the large cells, the fine mucous substance was found from the point wavering lines expressing the conspect of connection of the stalk and the volva 7 or undulating appearance of their walls white bands eradiated at the inner surface of (as in fig 6.)* 6 the volva which were connected at its upper part by lines. The roots were cylindrical of Monday, 5 September loose tissue anastomosing with each other. Today I received a letter from Mark; he is on The fungus grew on rotten wood not 15 the point of selling his cattle and returning yards from the seaside. Long continued rain to England: he has apparently had a sad, but had preceded its development, the month instructive experience. Just as William laid of March and April corresponding to Septbr aside old family prejudices on the continent, and Octobr in England so has Mark shed his in New Holland. fig 1. the fungus in its natural size. Leyard came to me on Saturday with the A the hole by which the hollow stem object of introducing me to Dr Ward[?], communicated with the athmosphere whose sons studied medicine in Paris, then b. the brown matter covering the disc accompanied a scientific expedition from France, were shipwrecked on the coast of c. the base of the rays with little holes, South America, and eventually, after many which open into large cavities in the hardships, reached New Holland, became disc lawyers and are now well-to-do people. The d. the divisions of the rays man told me he had first used colchicum e. the stalk for gout and later introduced the use of

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 31 Darragh and Fensham stramonium for nervous diseases and […]. in an unpleasant manner. Nevertheless, I do We discussed here and there a great many not want to yield to an unjustified and hasty things, which I least expected, particularly feeling of antipathy. about religion, on which he advanced rather Another acquaintanceship was useful to liberal opinions. He has certainly turned his me. The father of little Murphy knew Dr hands to many things and seen a lot, but his Bowman’s gardener, Mr Newman. John restless mind has never allowed him to settle took me along to him, and he appears to down and, for all his constant making of be an honest and friendly busy man. He plans, he seems to forget about steady creative sent me a large number of unknown plants, work. He brought out French labourers, to which I have partly determined and I shall whom he promised an Eldorado. Once they determine the others as time goes by. There were here, he left them and conceived the I met Dr Bowman’s son, a sickly asthmatic plan of going to New Zealand to join a native tribe and make observations on the medicinal boy, who is, however, interested in botany properties of the plants there. This man asked and to whom I am greatly indebted for many me to accompany him and work with him. interesting plants. Naturally I have no liking for such a reckless When I finished my lectures, I announced fellow, such a groundless reckless fellow, to my audience that I would with pleasure whatever a reckless fellow I may be myself. give them any further possible information, A week ago last Thursday, I was invited to if they wished to join me on my botanical lunch by Mrs Mitchell with the intention excursions. Mr Rennie, former Professor of of being introduced to a Mr Bidwill, zoology at King’s College, at once accepted who gives some attention to botany and my offer; likewise another young man; had just returned from a trip to New the headmaster of Sydney College and Zealand. He told me several interesting Australian College sent along their boys, and things about New Zealand, for instance so public botanical excursions were tried for about a dwarf Dacrydium, a creeping or the first time in Sydney. Although I did not climbing Metrosideros, about the absence like old Rennie at first, I have come to like of leguminous plants, and the abundance him very much since. of composites. He had brought a peculiar genus of fern with broad leaves, the 6 September fructification being on the leaf edges. He My dearest mother. I have not copied the showed me several other strange plants, the letter. I wrote to my mother that I shall names of which I have forgotten. During the forward to her a work for publication and conversation he told me quite a number of other odd things. He is now attempting to that I shall leave the royalties from it to her. obtain hybrids of related genera and species, e.g. Araucaria excelsa and the one from 7 September Moreton Bay. He has succeeded in growing I had a very remarkable conversation hybrids of Haemanthus and Crinum, which, with Mrs Mitchell. Just as I was about to however, still needs to be confirmed. leave, she called me back and said that However, I do not like the man; he seems to some days ago she had had a conversation be insincere, putting up a certain reserve, as with another lady, who had claimed that if he were trying, by silence, to appear wise, although the Prussians and Germans were and when he was communicative, he was so a well-educated, enlightened and virtuous

32 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 nation, they were free thinkers and had no Dear heavenly Father, I sincerely thank religion. Now she asked me what I thought You for having so kindly protected me this about it. I answered her that, if she believed day. Give me protection again this night, that you should attend church twice or even and protect my parents, my brothers once every Sunday and should neither sing, and sisters, and all my kinsmen and play, nor dance, she would no doubt find fellowmen. Be gracious to us and forgive less religion in than in England. If, us our sins, of which we sincerely repent however, she analysed the character of a and strengthen us with Your Holy Spirit, people or of an individual more carefully, so that we shall become better and better she would soon find out that we had as and more like You and hear our prayer. much religion and possibly more than any Amen. other nation; that above all, we lacked that It seems so poor and so brief, and yet I feel religious hypocrisy, which is surprisingly that I have said every thing and my head common in England; that we believed in sinks reassured on the pillow. the existence of God and in immortality, but that perhaps a great number of us did 7 September not look upon Jesus as God, but as a God- sent prophet; that we put greater accent on Yesterday I visited Mrs Mitchell. Once more the moral doctrine than on dogma. Though we looked all over the whole garden for Mrs Mitchell really agreed with me on many interesting things, and again we were lucky points, I realised on the other hand, that the enough to find several interesting things, dogmas of her church were most intimately particularly beetles and butterfly larvae connected with her religious convictions living in the wood, and several spiders. and that she was unable to abstract more The eggs of the Acharista on the vine-leaves. general religious truths from them. This Mr Walker Scott came and after helping us made me extremely uneasy and I do not as best he could, we went to the Kirchners know whether I could ever undertake the together, where he showed me fossils and education of her children, at least here in the bore-tunnel of that annelid, which he Sydney. On the other hand, I must admit that has already given me. He also showed me this would be very advantageous for me and a drawing of the interesting spider, which that the family is so agreeable and kindly I had found in Mitchell’s garden a week disposed that I should certainly find nothing ago. One of the little girls passed him the but pleasure in their midst. objects from the other room, and to my great astonishment she called him father. Now When I told her that I had made up my here a great secret or mystery is revealed, for evening prayer myself when I was 10 years I could never understand the relationships old and that I had not found it possible since there were between Mrs Kirchner, Miss to improve on it, she asked me to write it Mary, and the little girls Harriot and Helena. down for her. How strange it is to impart It now appears that perhaps they belong to to another person the words, with which three fathers, and that Miss Maryanne acts as I have addressed the Almighty for twenty a sort of governess to her younger sisters, if years, in deepest silence, in the quiet of she is a blood relative of theirs at all, because night! However, I will write it down here in Kirchner called her mostly Miss Wolcott. The German and then try to translate it as well as children are well brought up and I like the possible. family very much, but it always struck me as strange that the mother was never seen in the

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 33 Darragh and Fensham midst of the children. With the exception of which for more than two months has attracted the Barney children, I have never seen better- the eye of the nature-lover by the profusion behaved children. of large white flowers, and contributing considerably to the enlivenment of the bush. 12 September Leucopogon ericoides is not less so and both are shrubs 2 to 3 ft tall. {Astrotricha floccosa is also Yesterday the Mitchells with the two children very characteristic).} accompanied me to the North Shore, to one of its wildest gullies. On the shore, and washed The Compel brothers rowed us back to by the tidal waters, Aegiceras fragrans grew Sydney again and I selected a large number adorned with its stiff, green, membranous of flowers for the sisters, which they put leaves, and its decumbent, broad-rooted between paper to dry to make a small collection. trunk that puts out branches. As we climbed up the rough bush track, we were surrounded Robert Scott asked me whether I could by Pultenaea daphnoides, this beautiful legume, distinguish tannic acid from gallic acid. The between which Pultenaea liniphylla, comosa, wattle-tree, an Acacia from Van Diemens and stipularis (equally beautiful) raised their Land (A. mollissima?) contains an abudance yellow flower-heads and spikes. of tannin, which is sent to England as an carnea and alba, Glossodia major and minor extract, where it gets a high price. Rob. Scott were glistening like blue and white drops intends to cultivate this tree. He told me that among the evergreen. Eucalyptus and Banksia that whenever a large tree of this species (or integrifolia formed the taller vegetation. another one) was burnt, in the burnt area Higher up on the sunny rocky surfaces, He told me that the young saplings of this appeared Dillwynia ericifolia, a fine-leaved Acacia will shoot up within the burnt area of variety perhaps. Beneath the moist shaded a mature tree, as if considerable heat were rocks, Gonocarpus teucrioides was about needed to make the seeds sprout. They had to open its small, insignificant, greenish tried, but without success, to achieve the flowers; there were large numbers of Epacris same result by burning heaps of grass. grandiflora and microphylla, Styphelia triflora I asked him whether it was true that horses and longiflora; Grevillea linearis and – rarely here did not like to eat English clover, as Dr – punicea, Boronia ternata, and Crowea saligna. Macdonald had told me, He replied that it As we descended to another bay, Thelymitra was only yesterday that his horse had feasted ixiodes was found. Dodonaea triquetra formed on clover at Camden. Dr Macdonald had told almost a forest. Lyperanthus suaveolens was me that in the barracks the tufts of clover rise spotted by the keen eyes of little David. On conspicuously over the short grass, because the opposite slope of the wild narrow gully, the cows and horses spurn the clover owing which now lay before us, we discovered a perhaps to its inherent bitterness. However, large number of the magnificent, deep-red they eat it dried with the other grass. flower-heads of Telopea speciosissima, and on the dry terraces of the hill, exposed to the 15 September ocean breeze, often in their shaded crevices, appeared the magnificent whitish-yellow This morning I was present at the dissection flower-clusters of Dendrobium speciosum. (the anatomical investigation) of a brain. At the bottom of the gully Phebalium was The brain was a very large one, and as Dr covered with white flowers. I have forgotten Macdonald had preserved it in alum water to mention Ricinocarpos on the sunny ridges, for a day the soft parts had become harder.

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The connection between the lateral ventricles affectionate wife, a busy housekeeper, and a and the third and fourth, the fornix, the three thoughtful woman, who takes an interest in commissures of the velum, the pineal gland, nature, striving all times to connect it with and the aqueductus sylvii were quite distinct; our Creator and anxiously comparing its I had never seen them as clearly as on this teachings with those of acquired religion. occasion. These inner cavities with porous She is a firm believer in this acquired religion, membranes, with their probable vaporous perhaps even in the rites themselves; and secretions are really extraordinary. Shall we she may be unfair towards dissenters. Her never understand their functions properly? husband’s demeanour is very much like hers and rarely have I seen two people so Let us suppose that the end of all nerve-fibres in harmony with one another. Even in their terminate at the wall of these cavities and that appearance they show some resemblance. they impart a sensation to them and from these lead the impulse for activity to the muscles. Mrs Barney is a good mother and an excellent Wounds inflicted on the outer substance of wife. She seems to be kindly disposed to her the brain have been of no consequence. Those servants and open-handed towards the poor. reaching the ventricles were always fatal. I But on the one hand, she is not so thoughtful, realise the limitations of such an idea. I see the and on the other she is more boastful, talking dense darkness that surrounds us about the more about herself, her own actions, her function of this organ with the exception of family, stressing her manifold connexions. Flourens’s experiments. She is not free of family pride and perhaps has a tendency to mockery and gossip and Mrs Barney received me today, whereas to unfavourable judgment of others. Her yesterday she was too unwell to see me. In conversation is pleasant and she speaks well her attitude to me, she has given signs of her and with animation. Since she has seen and unremitting favour, although she has never experienced a great deal and enjoyed a good tried to make me a close friend of her family. education, she is not only agreeable, but also I will not reproach her for that, as it was much instructive. Much if not everything depends more agreeable to me. On the other hand an on the circle, in which these women move. invitation to tea or lunch would have shown While the one takes pains to assert a high their desire for closer acquaintanceship. How rank in the local society, the other is almost the Mitchells have received and treated the completely wrapped up in the narrow circle complete stranger! Mrs Mitchell is such an of her home and garden, in which she tries to attentive, open and benevolent woman! It has make new discoveries every day and where indeed always been comforting to find better she finds fresh satisfaction day by day. and better people, and although I should not be taken in by outward friendliness, I cannot Although these women differ so much in deny that this attention has greatly benefited character, I hold both in high esteem; albeit me. Man is after all often like a little child. Mrs Mitchell’s modest reserve corresponds He wants to give love, yet feels so warm and closely to my own character. Both are worthy so at ease to see that he is being loved and women and estimable friends. Mrs Marlow respected. Mrs Mitchell seems to be cold ranks below them both; not so much in on first acquaintance, but is immediately her kindly disposition to me or perhaps to affable, without reserve, obliging, gladly anyone else, but in the wealth of feeling or giving without offending, and is without of intellect. She has not enjoyed as good an fuss and a grateful recipient. She is a education. She has flitted about in society loving, exceptionally attentive mother, an like a butterfly and learnt its manners and

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 35 Darragh and Fensham maxims, which she considers to be true blue distances out here, but during the setting knowledge. She can talk about nothing but of the sun, often when it is half an hour above the external impressions, which society, the horizon, it floods the hills with delightful fashion, and manners produce on her. Since soft purple light just as it always hovered these impressions are extremely shallow and around the mountains of Italy. soon exhausted, she must resort to her own I noted down for myself what I found, and I imagination, and by assuming things, she is shall copy out these notes here: led to make superficial judgments of people, to witty remarks and mockery, which are Lead and sulphur in the sandstone, which most annoying to a humanitarian. She takes is being quarried close to the jail. Round an interest in the education of her children, inclusions of grey clay and distinct imprints but as she has not received a proper education of shells. Particularly No 1 and No 2 are very herself, she does not know how to engage distinct. in it or how to regulate and to govern. The wonderful intelligent children are exposed to distractions by irresponsible indolence and carelessness, which cause them to find pleasure only in amusements. Marianne, for example, already talks of nothing else but men, women, and girls in this superficial way, following external impressions. It is interesting to compare the husbands of these women. Colonel Barney is a serious- minded reserved businessman, who leaves the house and the honours entirely to his wife, They are in a block in the sentry-box next though he knows very well how to preserve to the jail on the jail side. They are the first his dignity as master of the house. My traces of fossils, which I have observed in the esteemed friend Captain Marlow, perhaps a sandstone. connoisseur and vegetative creature from his Grevillea dubia? The leaves are early days, has left the reins entirely to his very broad compared with those wife, who also excels him by far in practical of other species and the edges are wisdom. He has shown his paternal feelings not curled[?]. An Oreodicus with perhaps only to Marianne, whereas he seems parallel pieces of plants arranged to be in open conflict with his other children. parallel in a sort of spiral.

19 September (21st in my etiquette) A small grey Rynchophorus with a whitish line on each side. A yellow wasp was looking Yesterday I paid nature a very long visit and for a night cap among the dewy leaves of we were both alone with each other like the Banksia ericaefolia. time I was making excursions to Paris and Naples, and going on walking-trips from Lambertia is now beginning to develop young Rome to Florence or through Switzerland. shoots; likewise Hakea and perhaps all the The day was unusually mild: the mountains Proteaceae one after the other. Those just enveloped by a bluish-white glimmer, which mentioned are the first two I noticed. They do became more intensely blue upwards and not appear to have very much sap pressure whiter downwards. I have rarely seen really throughout the winter. Isopogon anethifolium

36 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 is in beautiful bloom; likewise Conospermum with four pairs of white spots on a brown tenuifolium, taxifolium, and linearifolium (a background (in the act of copulation) and variety of longifolium?), Baeckea densifolia. finally a blackish-brown beetle, which resembled almost a carabid, but probably It is interesting to observe the distribution of belongs to quite a different insect family. All the dew on the leaves and petals of Philotheca these beetles seem to be in full copulation. australis (scabra): while there are large drops They were shy, and the first and the last on each side of the petals, the leaves of the mentioned ones usually flew away very stem are quite dry already. Is this in any way quickly, whereas the elaterid pretended to connected with the distribution of the glands be dead when caught. I found only a very containing volatile oils? – I observed the small beetle on Ricinocarpos. A grey spider plant at 9 a.m. with its young ones in a cell between the A small spider, apparently belonging to the twigs of Petrophile pedunculata. {In addition I Lycoseae (?), on the under side of a leaf of found a small beetle with yellow dots on the Angophora cordata /-ifolia, beneath some loose same plant, as well as Rhynchophora on some cobwebs. others. It seems that the flowering-season of this plant forms an entomological period. – A Hakea gibbosa exudes a tasteless, yellowish- green-reddish bug.} white gum. The dark round shrubs of Banksia ericifolia, On Casuarina stricta a black hymenopteran, with their blackish, orange-coloured, covered with grey hairs and considerably cylindrical flowerspikes, are characteristic larger than a bee though somewhat similar of the country around me. Gompholobium in appearance was copulating. The female grandiflorum is a very beautiful legume. was winged and very big; the male, wingless Conospermum taxifolium, Ricinocarpos with and very small, had grasped the female with its white flowers, Eriostemon salicifolium, its mandibles at the end of the abdomen and Sprengelia incarnata (the latter only in very had itself carried away by her at the threat of moist soil) cover the ground all over. danger. The females were very shy; I found Casuarina stricta, and Comosperma virgata also them on only one species of Casuarina. add much to the beauty. Eucalyptus is only found as a very low tree. Genetyllis diosmoides, 21 September. Continuation of 18 Petrophile. and Isopogon. All around I heard September the broken calls of several birds; it always I found a small plant with four sepals and is as if they are going to whistle a full tune, four petals (which were hat-shaped at the but they stop short. I was told that Australian base), eight filaments (four longer); the birds generally have no coherent song or even anthers were at the end of a cross-beam do not sing at all. One of the gentlemen (Mr so as to form a Latin T with the filaments Rennie) said that they were only diatonic, (Lynd called the little plantTomanthera ). Two which I have probably misunderstood, however. In a hole, apparently made by the styles. There was an abundance of them in larvae of the mantis, I found a very large moist spots. The pod with six stigma [...] black Rhynchophorus. adhering. On Conospermum taxifolium, which is in flower and according to its veins[?] In Europe we are almost certain to shows some differences, I found a metallic find various insects, particularly small green, slender beetle, which must belong staphylinids and scarabs, in dry cow pats. to the telephorid family. Also an elaterid Here you find only ants. Just as the ant here

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 37 Darragh and Fensham changes its food, since originally there was I found a leafless plant with four petals, no cow dung in Australia, so have various eight filaments (four long and four shorter), other insects relinquished their original food with separate anthers. This plant and the and chosen the introduced plants. The most little one, which I found earlier, probably striking example is an Acharista (a butterfly), belong together. Very beautiful Leucopogon which once laid its eggs on a native plant, but lanceolatus and Correa speciosa were found in now badly damages the grape-vine, covering a very delightful gully below the orphanage. the young leaves with its echinoid-like eggs, Hibbertia cinerea[?] and many other fine from which little caterpillars crawl out in plants are here together. about 12 days and feed on the leaves of the I observed very strange excrescences on vine during the whole summer. Mr Scott told Banksia serrata; the bark of the tree is swollen, me that Acharista still afflicts native plants thick, and torose. as well, which, however, are related to the grape-vine(?). It would be worth the trouble Dianella cyanea. A hairy caterpillar on to test whether the eggs can be transferred Lepidosperma (I gave it to the Kirchners; I do from one plant to the other. not know whether it is new). The butterfly larvae, which live in theBanksia Let me have a little rest on one of the and Lambertia, seem to metamorphose now sandstone boulders or on a dry fallen-down like the Occodicus. However, the former must eucalypt trunk. All day I have roved through certainly take the chrysalis form first like the low-growing bush and scrub land, and my Occodicus did a long time ago (mid-August). eyes have become tired of looking at the pale- green distance and the simple undulating The bark of the white Eucalyptus is very rich contours of the hills. Here a deep wooded in sap and so soft that the impressions of the gully descends to the sea. A small creek claws of the opossum can be seen everywhere. gives the vegetation greater freshness and These impressions vigour. Not only does the Eucalyptus rise to a cause a kind of considerable height in order to look, though inflammation, unsuccessfully, over the walls of the gully, or at least a but also the Banksia with its thick knobbly more abundant bark rises higher. The warbling of the birds flow of sap, and becomes more cheerful, the rustling of the gradually small leaves more animated. Below the damp rocks protuberances are ferns, and particularly beautiful Osmunda seen to cover the barbata and Davallia dubia, grow luxuriantly. smooth surface. The trunk of Xanthorrhoea arborea (the Apart from these grass-tree) attains a height of 3-4’. Callicoma impressions, serratifolia bows its ever thirsty branches tracts of beetle over the little creek, while the sweet-leaved larvae are found Smilax stretches over them. Everywhere on nearly every Bauera is pushing forward to the moisture. trunk with Gleichenia flabellata. The magnificent Telopea smooth bark. They speciosissima and a host of small plants, commence as very which did poorly in the constant heat of the fine threads and sun further up, thrive vigorously down here. become wider as – And what mild air! Though our senses are the larva grows. not delighted by the perfume of flowers, the

38 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 fresh smell of the vegetation does invigorate common. Xerotes. On the sandy bank there us. The white bulky trunks and branches were pebbles of trap? of primitive rock, of the eucalypts, and the frequent dry and which I will identify. {A small plant like leafless trunks add a wintry element to this Hydrocotyle.} warm but languid nature. In a small gully, which runs into the main 22 September gully further down, I found a new Logania. Mild and sunny weather favoured our excursion yesterday in a south-westerly Newcastle on the Hunter River direction from Newcastle. This township lies on a sandy neck of land, which protrudes far Monday, 19th September, I left Sydney for out into the sea and was perhaps, like the north Newcastle, accompanied by Mr Walker Scott. shore, partly sand deposited at the mouth Inclement weather had set in; it was raining. of the river. Hilly ranges in the south and Mr Lynd, the amiable man, gave me more south-west form a large basin with an almost signs of his sincere friendship. Superstitious level bottom, the deepest parts of which are as ever, or at least as often, I considered the occupied by swamps. It is covered by bush rain setting in to be a good omen, which and scrub with rarely a tree in between. The accompanied me on all my travels. The open areas are covered everywhere with steamship (the Rose) went a steady course, good turf, which is formed from couch- and though the wind blew strongly, I was grass imported from India according to Mr not sea-sick since I lay down early. The next Scott. The abundance of the flowers of the morning my head felt somewhat dizzy, but plants is just as great and as diversified as at I was better after a short rest. Newcastle, Sydney. A large number of plants, the main which I have only seen on a rainy and body of the vegetation, is identical in both cheerless day, is bleak and desolate. Only places. But many of the plants in common a distant mountain-range gives some life have a somewhat different character. Some to the landscape. Mr Scott showed me his are different either in their distribution or workshops and his salt-graduation on the in their actual shape. Epacris obtusifolia, for northern bank of the Hunter River. For example, shows a finer leaf, Conospermum one person, they are a rather significant taxifolium shows the characteristics of the undertaking. He employs joiners, smiths, axil flowers as indicated by Brown more iron-founders, and sawyers, and others at distinctly than Sydney. We likewise find that the salt-graduation. The graduators are very Leucopogon virgatus is extremely abundant, tall, but they seem too close to me. Mr Scott, whereas in Sydney it appears only in rare however, told me that this density is quite stems. Baeckea diffusa, which makes the permissible in this dry atmosphere. The pans whole bush red with its richer flowers, was are very large – I think too large! characteristic. It was surprising not to find We wandered a little through the bush. a single Grevillea, which in any place all Leucopogon richeri was covered with white around Sydney we always see as one or the berries (like currants). I found several other species. Melaleuca, on the other hand, Loranthus, but only one in full blossom, are common, and other species of Loranthus and Leucopogon margarodes Trochocarpa. At occur on Casuarina and Banksia. Of orchids, least I think it is Trochocarpa. I do not know Diuris and Prasophyllum elatum were found; whether I am dealing with another Persoonia. a maranthacean, Anguillaria dioica, and {Persoonia falcata} Fabricia laevigata is very Burchardia umbellata.

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Mr Scott showed me three trees growing Last night a certain Mr Dupper, who lived a together in the drift sand of the seashore (or long time at Hofwyl near Bern in Switzerland, mouth of the river) and of which all three called on us. He went to New Zealand and were unknown to me. One is interesting has property there. He is now busy shipping because of its peculiar growth. A short thick cattle from here to New Zealand. He told trunk about 2″ [′?] high, sends out a large me he lost 42% in the first attempt and that number of long white-barked branches, the beasts were not strong enough to keep whose tips bend to the ground, so that the themselves on their feet, collapsed and were whole shrub resembles a fountain, whose trampled to death by the others. He has now waters fall uniformly and evenly all-round. given each a separate stall and hopes to be The branches are moderately thorny, the luckier this time. He pays the skipper £500, leaves soft, ovoid or an ovoid upside down and has about £300 for the cost of the voyage (I am not quite sure). and fodder; so that a shipment of oxen costs him £1000. Next to this shrub there is a tree, whose yellow racemes Mr Lynd has already He very much prefers New Zealand to this brought to Sydney. Its fruit is a trilocular colony; the vegetation is richer and the capsule. Perhaps it is an Elaeodendron. Over atmosphere more invigorating. There are it twines a vine-like plant with the knots no native mammals, no snakes, no frogs nor and tendrils of the grape vine with beautiful toads, and few lizards. When we compare dark-green, oval leaves, which are serrate on these islands with Madagascar we must be the upper half. It seems to be a Cissus. This surprised at the limited creative power of is the plant on whose leaves the Acharista Nature here. The young man told me that the lived previously, which now prefers the oxen were keen on eating the young shoots introduced grape-vine. of a shrub, but which kills them irrevocably. I recollect having read in Burkhard’s Travels7 As we returned home, we found a large that camels also liked a plant, which was number of marine oniscen (Sphaeroma?) always deadly poison for them, so that a rolling up in the bark of an old tree trunk trade-route, on which this plant occurred, on the shore. Mr Scott drew my attention frequently had to be abandoned. to some furrows in the fresh sand just left by water and showed me that they had 24 September been made by the Natica, which pushes the sand up over itself with its very broad foot Yesterday a pleasure-trip was made to Ash and then resembles a small heap of fresh Island [with] Mrs Crummer, a Greek, her two sand, until you pick it up and wash it. The children, and two very pretty girls, the Miss Cerithium, which also crawls across the moist Reeds, one of them a bride accompanied by sand, makes similar furrows. her bridegroom, and Mr Bolton. The weather was very favourable, warm, but moderated Mr Scott told me about an insect (tick) which by a fresh sea-breeze. In the estuary of the bores into the flesh and can eventually even river, there are several islands of considerable kill dogs. extent, all of them very flat, like both the Baron Hugel was of the opinion that the river-banks, and only slightly elevated above orchids of this region cannot stand manure. water-level. Avicennia and Aegiceras crowd Mr Scott planted them in cow-manure, and into the water, covering the banks, so that they have thrived very well. you glide along between two thick, green, hedge-rows on the clear wide sheet of water.

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Mosquito Island is of considerable extent, trunk is too weak to support the crown and perhaps about 2,000 acres, but very swampy leans over onto a neighbouring tree, it fastens and not suitable for cultivation. Ash Island, itself on to it with roots; which penetrate into the property of Messrs Scott, is higher with the bark and often hang right down to the excellent black soil without swamps. Since ground. Gradually they become stronger, like the elevation over the river level is so slight, branches climbing down, and grow together these islands are subject to flooding, but with neighbouring ones so they often form a since the river is so extremely wide, the thick wicker-work round the tree trunk. Mr flooding is only a few feet; some of Mr Scott’s Scott assured me that he had seen a perfect buildings are built on 2½ ft piles. Mr Scott tube, the inside of which was rotting away)} has given particular attention to the growing It was late when we returned. A sparkling sky of oranges, and the trees are extraordinarily stretched out above us, and the clear river, fresh and strong, although many of the trees bordered by dark clusters of trees, reflected are infested partly with black fungus and the bright constellations in the rippling partly with Coccus (scab). Mr Scott said that waters. At half past eight the moon rose and the fungus did little damage, because it was cast a new spell on the scene. peeling off as a black film, leaving the surface of the leaves fresh and dark-green. But the scab is a real pest and many remedies against 25 September it have been suggested. I think one should I made the acquaintance of two clergymen, look for and observe the natural enemies and Mr Wilton and Mr Bolton. The former has encourage them as much as possible. Among collected zealously, but without knowledge their natural enemies, for example, are of the objects he was collecting. The latter the chrysomelids, which are insectivorous was educated in St Petersburg, speaks (living on other animals) both as larvae and German quite well, although too slowly fully developed insects. and clumsily. Once he was rich, now he is We made a little excursion through the bush. poor and needy. Mr Wilton reminded me It is wild, just as it sprang from the womb of of Mr Clarke, whose extensive knowledge Australian Nature. There were fallen-down he lacks. In the afternoon, I investigated the melaleucas and fig-trees, which wreath geological conditions of the estuary, opposite dead and living with strong tendrils and Nobbys Island. There were some points of are the causes of death for their bearers and considerable interest here. The strata are in perhaps for their own. The wild vine, Tecoma the following order: (Clematis), and many other woody, climbing shrubs spread out around and between trees, making our advance extremely difficult. Polypodium confluens and a related species were climbing up trees, and Achrostichum grew rankly on them wherever thick branches caught some moisture between themselves and the trunk. {The fig-trees show very interesting features. They can grow up independently, forming extraordinarily shady trees of medium height. In the bush where the plant is probably seeking air, if the

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The clay of the uppermost stratum is often of As far as I could see the strata of Nobbys such pure whiteness that the soldiers use it to Island correspond to those of the mainland, whiten their belts. The lower strata of the top but I was told that protruding pockets of hard coal-seam contain beautiful coal as well as those rock (trap) had altered the order of the strata. of the second seam. The third, which is only The impressions of leaves (I no longer doubt visible at very low tide, contains the best quality. that they are ferns) are particularly numerous The sandstone in 5 and 6 is also worked and the in the clay (which becomes quite soft when it sand of No 6 has been used profitably at Mr rains) on top of the upper coal-seam. Above Scott’s iron-foundry. At the moment a causeway the third coal-bed there is a conglomerate is being built from the mainland to Nobbys containing trunks of trees altered into iron- Island, and convicts are used for this work, stone. I immediately saw the close conformity which will be of great benefit to Newcastle. with the structure of wood, but some strangely

42 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 twisted specimens were so similar to ropy lava blows, which the men rain on the women. that I examined them very carefully before I That portion of the women’s temporal bone, was certain of their tree-nature. The trunks which is behind and above the ear-hole is are of different sizes, slightly compressed, strongly vaulted (this part corresponds to and usually with a deep furrow on one side, Gall’s Destructiveness). The men without which makes the cross section kidney-shaped. exception lacked the right frontal incisor, Often it is the stem of a tree, often branches, which is broken off as a sign of full manhood often also the upper portion of the roots. They at a certain age. It is amazing what hard lie in various directions, having drifted there blows on the head these savages can stand. when the conglomerate, in which they are Mr Bolton told me that they confer blows found, was forming. on each other with their waddies freely and I must also mention that at the very top, in turn. Their addiction to drink, however, above the top beds of white clay, there destroys them, and they disappear like the is a conglomerate which has a great snow from the mountains in the summer resemblance to the one further down. In sun. fact this conformity has made me believe that the lower conglomerate with the tree [Letter in English to Robert Lynd, 26 trunks had been only deposited later in one September 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: 525-526.] spot in a hollow of older rocks. I am not yet completely certain about this, as I have seen 27th September neither its roof nor its floor clearly, since the Yesterday I was invited to a child’s baptism. contact points were covered with sand. There I met a middle-aged gentleman With regard to animals the sea-shore was no named Robertson, who has rambled much less interesting. Clumps of ascidians grew in about the globe, seen a great deal, and the rock crevices like cabbage-stalks. Broad committed many a foolish prank and finally chitons, red and multicoloured sea anemones was reduced to great poverty. I was greatly and alcyonarians were everywhere. attracted by his clever conversation and his I was told that the aborigines caught crabs sound knowledge. He gave me amusing (Palinurus) between the crevices of the rock. information about the camel and shared my opinion on the expediency of their When I arrived back home, Mr Scott was introduction into the colony. With regard talking to a young Aborigine. The boy was to the selection of coolies (labourers) it was well-built, though very slim; his features not necessary, he said, to consider what parts unpleasant, although his protruding eye- brows, white eyes, broad flat nose, and broad of a country they come from. The highland mouth could hardly be claimed to be beautiful. coolies from the Himalayas are stronger and The forehead was wide and well-curved, and better suited for the change to this region. the hair nicely curled and jet black. The coolies of the lowlands are weaker and accustomed to a very warm and uniform Mr Bolton, a customs-official, had shown climate. me his skulls of Aborigines. They had nearly all the characteristics that I have noticed When we got home Mr Scott told me amongst the Moreton Bay savages, only what type of man Robertson is, and I was on a reduced scale. There was a number of distressed to find such good knowledge interesting indentations on the outer surface and so much experience not reflected in the of the skulls of the women, which result from moral character of the man.

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28 September scrutinizing glance at us, he asked whether we had any tobacco. He was an old grey- Yesterday I made an excursion to the Valley of haired man, but his chest was well-formed Palms, a name which Mr Wilton, clergyman and broad, he had fine hands and feet, his of Newcastle, has given to a wild, romantic, wooded gorge where each rocky crevice and features were pleasant, slightly melancholy. each boulder is covered with an exceedingly He reminded me very much of old Becquerel luxuriant vegetation. From Shepherds Hill, in Paris. When we were returning later, we above Newcastle, we enjoyed a romantic met the same Moses. He was carrying a view over the Hunter River and some of small bundle on his head and as he walked its islands across hilly ridges and valleys, past, waving his waddy at us, he greeted us which cross-cut each other rather irregularly. amicably with *good bye*. Shepherds Hill is covered with Westringia From the sea the Valley of Palms is shut off by rosmarinifola and Melaleuca juniperoides; both a low sand dune, but as the sea washes over plants form isolated elliptic masses of scrub, this sandhill in stormy weather, the valley- which offer a peculiar sight. All the hills side is filled with sea-water. At the entrance I around Newcastle are covered with good found Renealmia umbellata. Further up I found thick turf, which is formed partly from couch- a great many new plants; the most interesting grass (Cynodon) and partly from fescue- ones were, however, the ferns. Notholaena grass (Festuca), and a fine-bladed grass. We pumilio. A large number of creeping descended to the sea and walked along the polypodia, which grew partly on rocks and shore, which is covered partly by fine sand, partly on trees. Wonderful specimens of partly by sandstone boulders, but also shows Asplenium nidus; the young plants reminded large level areas of hard sandstone. The three me vividly of the impressions of leaves in the coal-seams, and later on even a fourth were clay above the coal in Newcastle. Aspidium or visible everywhere intersected by the tall Nephrodium. In addition I also found many vertical rocks. There were frequent deposits monocotyledonous and dicotyledonous of ironstone, which are perhaps sufficient for plants. quarrying. The dog caught a wallaby. It was a male. We As we made for the Valley of Palms, a examined the stomach and found a great stark-naked Aborigine was coming briskly similarity between its various sections and and nimbly towards us. His forehead was those of ruminants. adorned with a white ribbon, round his bare waist was slung a sort of apron, and over his arm hung a small coat. In one hand he was holding his waddy. The proportions of his body were agreeable. His limbs were thin and the muscles did not stand out strongly, but neatly covered his bones, giving the limbs appropriate roundness. There seems to be the same difference between Blacks and Europeans as there is between wild animals and tamed domestic animals. We asked him his name, and he replied he was called Moses. He was going to catch crabs among the rocks washed by the sea. After casting a

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1. Consists of two bags, to which 2 is attached 30 September like a pocket. A thick wrinkly epidermis Yesterday’s excursion yielded me some covered the walls. 3 was like the large good observations on the four coal-beds. intestine of horses, bound up into pockets by two sinewy ligaments; the epidermis Crystallized iron carbonate in the Adiantum was thinner; the contents of this stomach impression. On Shepherds Hill I found a were much more digested, whereas those great many little plants forming the sward. of the first stomach were still rather coarse. Behind the buildings of the Coal Company 4 was covered with a mucous-membrane, I found Loranthus germinating. I do not feel the mucous secretion could be seen; the food well. The changed mode of life makes me was very fine and already like chyle. In the very susceptible to diarrhoea. I feel weak and second and third stomachs there was a large exhausted. number of intestinal worms. The blood of a Scincus showed the little oval We killed a black snake; its back was black, discs centred round the core. They are two and its belly reddish white, about 4 ft. long. It a half times larger than those of humans. It is was trying to hide in a water-filled hole, as possible that the inner core is an illusion. seems to be the case with most snakes in They are quite transparent, since one can New South Wales. easily distinguish the outlines of a little disc Mr Bolton had brought along beef steaks, lying under another one. which were now going to be cooked in a very simple way on the solid rocky bottom of a most charming glen. A big fire was lit, dry sticks of wood were laid across it like a grid, and then the steaks laid on these sticks. Then we ate the steaks as well as the liver of the wallaby with a hearty appetite.

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1 October troubled me for a long time. {Bathing in the sea and washing in cold water showed a very A short excursion to South Head. I found good effect. 18th October.} My complexion beautiful Calamites or Equisetum in the turned pale and yellow and I felt terribly sandstone No 6. A layer of separate or exhausted. This induced me to resume my continuous tabular nodules, which to old habit of washing my body on getting up. me looked almost like strontianite. In the A quarter of an hour walk from Newcastle, crevices there were tabular crystals, also on the flat rocky sea-shore, there is a regular a white substance like kaolin was found here. Some carbonized tree trunks with an quadrilateral depression, which is connected efflorescence of iron pyrites stood vertically with the sea during high tide, but it is like a on this layer. Under it there was genuine calm bath tub at low tide. charcoal (?) bedded in the sandstone. This In one place it is just deep enough to have a charcoal is extremely peculiar. The soldier little swim. The rock wall to the west protects in charge of the inspection, an Irishman, was the bather from the land-wind, which still again right on the spot to help us. He is a blows strongly in the early morning. I thought friendly, very clever young man. He showed I must avail myself of this good opportunity. me the dam that leads across to Nobbys I have enjoyed a really refreshing bath twice Island. An extraordinary project! All around and I feel much stronger. The spot is called the mountain the stone had been quarried Moris’s Bath and it really looks as if man and tipped into the sea. However, they had had a hand in the construction of this bath. now discovered a beautiful hard sandstone {It was blasted by Captain Moris [Morisset].} (No 6) and quarry from it huge blocks, which are lifted up twenty to twenty five feet by two Mr Scott treats me very hospitably. But cranes and then carried by small wagons on the man himself does not conduct a quiet, iron rails to the end of the dam to sink them cheery, enjoyable life, in quiet pursuits, into sea. The biggest blocks are of course laid nor even in respectable, steady business towards the open sea, which dashes against activities. He is an erratic genius, as he once and across them with enormous vigour in an called himself. Ever restless, he roams about easterly or south-easterly gale. Since the sea all day from place to place, as often as not is fairly deep here, the work is progressing without purpose, often making new plans only slowly; another three years might be and forgetting the old ones in doing so. On necessary for its completion. the north shore he has a salt-works, an iron- foundry, and a smithy, but instead of closely supervising his men or lending a hand 2 October himself, his restless mind drives him out of When I arrived at Newcastle, I had to the house onto the street and from the street completely alter my simple mode of life. As into the house. He is a strange character: I Mr Scott rises very late, I had to wait till ten know that on first impression he strongly and even eleven o’clock before I could have reminded me of my brother Herrmann. He my breakfast and this was usually so rich and is exactly the same easy-going and easy-to- so plentiful that I went without difficulty until get-on-with, humorous type, but he is not seven p.m. when dinner would be served. sincere, jokingly adopting untruthfulness to I not only ate a larger quantity of meat, but his purposes. Several times we talked about also drank more wine than was good for me. religion. He said one should go to church to The result of this altered mode of life was an set a good example. I have always found that unusual susceptibility to diarrhoea, which people, who go to church for the sake of the

46 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 The Leichhardt diaries. Early travels in Australia during 1842–1844 example, certainly have no religion, since line into the water than a fish took it, which religion inwardly urges them to church and we caught. It was a rock cod, which seems to never allows a sophistry of this kind to arise. live on bladder-wrack in the deep holes. Mr It is more an example of religious hypocrisy. Scott soon caught another very big one, but which fell off the line and escaped us. When I visited the establishments on the north shore and later on Ash Island, I saw on the one hand that a man like Mr Scott 3 October would never be able to make either the one Carried on from September 28. The wind or the other really profitable, whereas a man comes from the south-west. There is a faint or rather two men, who persevere and are haze: in the west the sun is setting over the industrious and lend a hand themselves, islands of the Hunter River, in front of me could make both establishments extremely – in the east and south – lies the expanse profitable. I am reflecting on the possibility of the sea, whose roaring reached me from of establishing myself here as a leaseholder the depths. Around me there are Westringia or landowner; the situation of Ash Island is shrubs; dwarf Pimelia and small species of very advantageous for shipping the products Xerotes in the sward. Just now a steamship is to Newcastle and to Sydney. I was about ploughing its way through the sea like an ant. to tell Mr Scott about my intentions, but discretion stopped me. I said to him once that I was convinced that the cultivation of Ash 8 October Island could be better carried out and that I On Tuesday Major Crummer, Mr Bolton and believed I could pay myself through a good I went over to the north shore and landed share of the increased profit. This occurred in near the home of Mr MacDonald, who has the presence of Major Crummer, and both he leased a considerable property from Cpt. and Mr Scott raised a host of objections. Later Holingworth. We put our provisions on a I spoke to Mr Bolton. This intelligent young pack-horse and persuaded MacDonald junior man has plenty of experience, which was to accompany us with another horse. The now very useful to me. But as I grew more first part of our journey was very pleasant. familiar with Mr Scott’s unstable character, A clear forest, or shrub land with bigger I realised that I would benefit little from Eucalyptus soaring up here and there, the closer relations with him, particularly in Corypha with its slender stem, thick grass or matters of money, and that if I really intend ferns, climbing plants, which covered the tree to become a landowner I would have to turn or bush bearing them with their dark green either to other landed proprietors or to the foliage and often with fruit. After proceeding government. three miles the scene changed, however. To [Letter in English to Robert Lynd, 2 October the left there was an extensive swamp filled 1842. Aurousseau, 1968: 526-528.] with tall sharp-edged grass and ferns, with a swamp Casuarina here and there. To the right rose sandhills, which were partly covered 3 October with Fabricia laevigata and some other shrubs, Yesterday afternoon we went fishing among but partly were composed of loose white sand, the sandstone boulders, from which the sea similar to a desert. This was particularly the had receded during low tide, while in the case at a spot, which had been named Hell. low-lying parts in between there was still Everywhere at the foot of these hills, water water. Hardly had Mr Scott sunk his fishing- came out feeding the swamp and during the

Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013 | 47 Darragh and Fensham drought of great value for the grazing herds grass there lived and chirped a host of merry of cattle. Further on the sand was covered by crickets. The following morning it was very a richer vegetation. Instead of a single line of cold on our simple beds and a heavy dew had hills, there was a slightly undulating surface fallen. The servant came to light the fire for with better soil and with many mussel shells breakfast and soon we were on our feet again. in it. For these reasons this soil appeared to me A great number of birds were to be heard to be suited for the growing of the grape-vine. from the dawn of day. The postilion-bird, On the one hand it was a slightly calcareous which gives a single long swelling note, the soil with sufficient humus and on the other it bellbird, which indicates the proximity of was also easy to cultivate, and thirdly water water by its full sounding call, chattering was found everywhere at a depth of 3 to 4 ft. parrots, which were squabbling with and I am also convinced that by letting the trees chasing each other from tree to tree, the large stand, the young plantation can be protected wild pigeon, and the wild duck were all astir against parching winds. Captain Crummer’s around us in great numbers. It was a hot day; property consists partly of those hills, but no puff of wind found us, shut off as we were partly of the north-eastern end of the great from the refreshing sea-breezes. I botanized swamp, which is covered with a thick Carex and found a Loranthus unknown to me. The sward. The cattle thrive very well on this next day we returned to Newcastle. Three pasture, and Major Crummer intends to start black snakes were shot dead and a brown one, a dairy farm here. His men live in some huts which is considered to be far more venomous. built of boards and bark. The black snake has perforated poison-fangs We arrived at one of these miserable huts on and a very large poison-gland, but its bite, Tuesday night, tired out, and tried to make although of very great consequence, is said ourselves as comfortable as possible in it. A not to be fatal, if the requisite remedy is taken big fire was lit immediately; the food was immediately. prepared, and before long we were sitting and squatting round a small table fervently Afternoon. restoring our strength. It was funny to see with what little household gear man is able I have just returned from Nobbys Island. This to manage if he must, and one cannot help island or rock is about an English mile from the thinking of Diogenes, who threw away his southern head of the estuary, almost halfway spoon when he saw a peasant scoop and between the north and south heads, only a drink water with his hand. We had two little little further out to sea. By its precipitousness benches, each seating two persons, who and its sharp contours, it gives the harbour had to hold the balance in such a way that, its peculiar character. For ten years they have been busy connecting this island with the if one rose without warning the other, the mainland by a stone causeway in order to latter would immediately tumble over with protect the harbour from south-east winds, the bench, plate, spoon, knife, and fork. For which usually cause a very high sea in it. the night a soft bed of grass and ferns was prepared. Tired as we were, we would have The base consists of indurated clay to a had no need of the infinite silence of the bush considerable height (50′ and more), which night to enjoy a good sound sleep. But we had shows a fine splintery jointing; the recent not that quietness so often mentioned by the fracture is a light grey, the surface greenish. inhabitants of the dry bush: the neighbouring Above this clay there is sandstone, also swamp held a legion of frogs and under the indurated; above this grey clay with Equisetum

48 | Memoirs of the Queensland Museum | Culture  7(1)  2013