San Nicolás That Neighborhood We Call the “Downtown”
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Year 1 / N° 2 El Observador Porteño December (The Observer of the City of Buenos Aires) Monthly Newspaper of the Cultural-Historical Heritage Observatory 2017 San Nicolás That neighborhood we call the “Downtown” The Obelisk under construction, 1936. This electronic bulletin is aimed at promoting the activities carried out by the Juntas de Estudios Históricos [Historical Research Boards] and the Gerencia Operativa de Pa- trimonio [Heritage Operative Management] within the framework of Resolution 1534/ GCABA/MCGC/2011, which created the Cultural-Historical Heritage Observatory of the City of Buenos Aires. We will publish information on every neighborhood of the city on a monthly basis, as well as relevant articles related the aforementioned Board. San Nicolás: that neighborhood we call the “Downtown” In the beginning of the 18th century, the 16.087 of 04/05/1972, comprises not only Basque Domingo de Acassuso, a trader and a the poor area named San Nicolás from military, decided to build a temple dedicated late 18th century, but also the area that was to Saint Nicholas of Bari. The construction historically known as Cathedral to the North works began in 1721 on the corner of Carlos (between Av. 9 de Julio and Av. Leandro N. Pellegrini and Corrientes. The church was Alem), which includes the area where Juan finished in 1727. Acasusso could not be de Garay set up the first Church as well as present at the opening act. He had passed Rivadavia St., which leads to Plaza de Mayo. away a couple of years before this after It is part of the city´s historical quarter and falling from scaffoldings in the site. In 1769, it has witnessed some of the most important it turned into a leading church. moments of the city´s and our country´s Nowadays, August 23rd is the symbolic day of history. this neighborhood. On this day, in 1812, the The history of San Nicolás began when Juan Argentinian flag was fluttered for the first de Garay distributed the pieces of land in time in the city of Buenos Aires, precisely 1580, after the city´s recent foundation. The on the tower of this church. According to location where the Metropolitan Cathedral some authors, there were seven white and is currently at was reserved for the Main blue flags that decorated Saint Nicholas Church, and the corner of Reconquista and Church. A thanksgiving activity was taking Rivadavia, where Banco Nación is currently place on that day in the so-called Union at, was allocated for himself. Afterwards, Square (where the Edificio del Plata is people started to populate some of the currently at) to celebrate the disruption of streets where the financial area of the Martín de Álzaga´s conspiracy. The temple city, named the City, currently operates. was remodeled in the beginning of the 20th Furthermore, the first hospital was planned century and was finally demolished in 1931 to be in Reconquista and Corrientes, but to build Diagonal Norte. The obelisk was set the mercedarians set up where La Merced up in what was partially the final location of Church is currently at. the church. In the proximities of the original poor area However, the neighborhood of San Nicolás, of San Nicolás, a Rifle Factory was set up in created under resolution N° 26.607 B.M. 1810. Then it became the Artillery Park. In front of it, there was a waste land known Saint Nicholas of Bari Church, ca. 1930. AGN. as Hueco de Zamudio, which was named . Plaza del Parque, today´s Lavalle Square. The presence of the barracks turned this neighborhood into the ultimate red-light district. This situation increased even more when the Western Railway, the first of the country, began to operate in 1857. This train departed from Estación del Parque, where the Colón Theatre is currently at. Meanwhile, the financial area of the city had started to increase, especially after the creation of the Commerce Consulate in 1794. However, it became a solid financial area after the Stock Exchange was set up in 1862, today the Numismatic Museum. Florida Street had turned into the most important commercial street of the city. It was the first pedestrian street of the city in 1911. Vehicles were prohibited from 11 am until 9 pm. The main commercial stores opened on this street, such as Gath & Chaves or A la Ciudad de México. Before the viceroyalty, the Paseo de la Alameda was planned to be near Opening of the first part of Av. 9 de Julio, 1937. the bajo. It was then called Paseo de Julio, today´s Av. Leandro N. Alem. Its arcades were famous. Prostitutes gathered here, people smoked opium and it was a famous night life epicenter. The Opera Theatre meeting point for sailors. Before Puerto opened its doors in 1872 and it became the Madero even existed, the Río de la Plata city´s most important theatre. Years later, reached this point, and the pier was near in 1908, the Colón Theatre was opened. Perón St. The broadening of Av. Corrientes came to The appearance of San Nicolás changed an end in 1936, and it turned into the street drastically when the foundation stone of “that never sleeps”: the library, theatre and the Palace of Justice was placed in 1904. bar mecca. In that same year, the Obelisk It turned into a sub-neighborhood of was inaugurated, and the first part of Av. Tribunales. Theatre life had arrived to the 9 de Julio was finished the following year. area after the Coliseum Theatre was built Afterwards, under resolution N° 26.607, the on Lavalle St. in 1865. From this moment, neighborhood of San Nicolás, what we call Lavalle and Corrientes became the city´s “Downtown”, was finally finished. Plaza del Parque, Benito Panunzi, ca. 1867. Timeline 1580 Layout of the city of La Trinidad and distribution of pieces of land. 1584 Construction of the first Main Church. 1721 Construction of Saint Nicholas of Bari Church. 1757 Construction of Paseo de la Alameda. 1791 Opening of today´s Cathedral. 1794 Construction of Commerce Consulate. 1822 Opening of the Artillery Park. 1857 Opening of the Western Railway. 1862 New building of the Stock Exchange: origin of the City. 1865 Coliseum: first theatre in the north of the City. 1904 Foundation stone of the Palace of Justice. 1908 Opening of the Colón Theatre. 1911 Florida Pedestrian Street. 1913 First part of Diagonal Norte. 1936 Construction of the Obelisk. 1937 First part of Av. 9 de Julio. Did you know that... … Pierre Benoit, who may be the son of Louis XVI of France, participated in the construction of the Metropolitan Cathedral´s façade? … that the building of Banco de la Nación Argentina has de biggest copula in the world? … that José Hernández finished writing Martín Fierro in one of the bedrooms of Hotel Argentino, where the AFI building is The Cathedral, Pellegrini, 1829. currently at? … that the Liceo Theatre is the oldest theatre … the first Colón Theatre was located on the hall of the city? corner of Rivadavia and Reconquista? … the first branch of Bank Boston, outside … Martín del barco Centenera urged the the United Stated, was in Buenos Aires? citizens of the city to build the Main Church in the area designated by Garay in 1593? … Estación del Parque, the terminal of the Western Railway, used to be located where the Colón Theatre is currently at? … the first hydraulic elevator of the city was in the Hotel de la Paix between 1872 and 1897, in today´s corner of Leandro N. Alem and Bartolomé Mitre? Former names of some of the streets of San Nicolás Before Now Temple Viamonte Opening of the Western Railway, Parque Lavalle unidentified author, 1857. Cuyo Sarmiento Cangallo Tte. Gral. Juan D. Perón Piedad Bartolomé Mitre La Plata Rivadavia Paseo de Julio Leandro N. Alem La Paz Reconquista Catedral San Martín Artes Carlos Pellegrini Garantías Rodríguez Peña Legends and curious stories of San Nicolás As in the case of the most important cities of to the insistence of the saint, they decided the world, Buenos Aires has a magical space: to declare him as patron of the city. Today, there are a number of myths, legends, and it is specially remembered with a special stories that make up a considerable part of emphasis in the Metropolitan Cathedral. its collective memory, and they took place in the city, in San Nicolás precisely. Here are • Christ of patience: In La Merced Church, some of them: there is a Christ known as “Christ of humility and patience”. Legend has it that • Hueco de las Ánimas: When the pieces of it was carved by an indigenous person land were distributed, Juan de Garay granted named “José”, who had learned the trade in for himself the piece of land of Rivadavia the Jesuit missions. Afterwards, the image and Reconquista, where Banco Nación is acquired a miraculous fame. It was then currently at. Afterwards, the first main that an Amerindian, who lived in poverty, church was built here and it was abandoned got sick badly. A relative told him to go for many years. Towards the 17th century, it see Chirst, he asked him if he knew him, was known as Hueco de las Ánimas, and no and Joseph answered: “If I know him? I´ve one wanted to go through this area because known him since he was an orange tree”. they thought there were ghosts (probably because the first cemetery of the main • Caballeros de la Noche [Knights of the church had been here). In the 19th century, Night]: one of the most curious stories of two theatres were built here and then, Banco Lavalle Square is related to the kidnap of Nación.