San Nicolás That Neighborhood We Call the “Downtown”

Year 1 / N° 2 El Observador Porteño December (The Observer of the City of Buenos Aires) Monthly Newspaper of the Cultural-Historical Heritage Observatory 2017 San Nicolás That neighborhood we call the “Downtown”

The Obelisk under construction, 1936.

This electronic bulletin is aimed at promoting the activities carried out by the Juntas de Estudios Históricos [Historical Research Boards] and the Gerencia Operativa de Pa- trimonio [Heritage Operative Management] within the framework of Resolution 1534/ GCABA/MCGC/2011, which created the Cultural-Historical Heritage Observatory of the City of Buenos Aires. We will publish information on every neighborhood of the city on a monthly basis, as well as relevant articles related the aforementioned Board. San Nicolás: that neighborhood we call the “Downtown”

In the beginning of the 18th century, the 16.087 of 04/05/1972, comprises not only Basque Domingo de Acassuso, a trader and a the poor area named San Nicolás from military, decided to build a temple dedicated late 18th century, but also the area that was to Saint Nicholas of Bari. The construction historically known as Cathedral to the North works began in 1721 on the corner of Carlos (between Av. 9 de Julio and Av. Leandro N. Pellegrini and Corrientes. The church was Alem), which includes the area where Juan finished in 1727. Acasusso could not be de Garay set up the first Church as well as present at the opening act. He had passed Rivadavia St., which leads to Plaza de Mayo. away a couple of years before this after It is part of the city´s historical quarter and falling from scaffoldings in the site. In 1769, it has witnessed some of the most important it turned into a leading church. moments of the city´s and our country´s Nowadays, August 23rd is the symbolic day of history. this neighborhood. On this day, in 1812, the The history of San Nicolás began when Juan Argentinian flag was fluttered for the first de Garay distributed the pieces of land in time in the city of Buenos Aires, precisely 1580, after the city´s recent foundation. The on the tower of this church. According to location where the Metropolitan Cathedral some authors, there were seven white and is currently at was reserved for the Main blue flags that decorated Saint Nicholas Church, and the corner of Reconquista and Church. A thanksgiving activity was taking Rivadavia, where Banco Nación is currently place on that day in the so-called Union at, was allocated for himself. Afterwards, Square (where the Edificio del Plata is people started to populate some of the currently at) to celebrate the disruption of streets where the financial area of the Martín de Álzaga´s conspiracy. The temple city, named the City, currently operates. was remodeled in the beginning of the 20th Furthermore, the first hospital was planned century and was finally demolished in 1931 to be in Reconquista and Corrientes, but to build Diagonal Norte. The obelisk was set the mercedarians set up where La Merced up in what was partially the final location of Church is currently at. the church. In the proximities of the original poor area However, the neighborhood of San Nicolás, of San Nicolás, a Rifle Factory was set up in created under resolution N° 26.607 B.M. 1810. Then it became the Artillery Park. In front of it, there was a waste land known Saint Nicholas of Bari Church, ca. 1930. AGN. as Hueco de Zamudio, which was named . Plaza del Parque, today´s Lavalle Square. The presence of the barracks turned this neighborhood into the ultimate red-light district. This situation increased even more when the Western Railway, the first of the country, began to operate in 1857. This train departed from Estación del Parque, where the Colón Theatre is currently at. Meanwhile, the financial area of the city had started to increase, especially after the creation of the Commerce Consulate in 1794. However, it became a solid financial area after the Stock Exchange was set up in 1862, today the Numismatic Museum. Florida Street had turned into the most important commercial street of the city. It was the first pedestrian street of the city in 1911. Vehicles were prohibited from 11 am until 9 pm. The main commercial stores opened on this street, such as Gath & Chaves or A la Ciudad de México. Before the viceroyalty, the Paseo de la Alameda was planned to be near Opening of the first part of Av. 9 de Julio, 1937. the bajo. It was then called Paseo de Julio, today´s Av. Leandro N. Alem. Its arcades were famous. Prostitutes gathered here, people smoked opium and it was a famous night life epicenter. The Opera Theatre meeting point for sailors. Before Puerto opened its doors in 1872 and it became the Madero even existed, the Río de la Plata city´s most important theatre. Years later, reached this point, and the pier was near in 1908, the Colón Theatre was opened. Perón St. The broadening of Av. Corrientes came to The appearance of San Nicolás changed an end in 1936, and it turned into the street drastically when the foundation stone of “that never sleeps”: the library, theatre and the Palace of Justice was placed in 1904. bar mecca. In that same year, the Obelisk It turned into a sub-neighborhood of was inaugurated, and the first part of Av. Tribunales. Theatre life had arrived to the 9 de Julio was finished the following year. area after the Coliseum Theatre was built Afterwards, under resolution N° 26.607, the on Lavalle St. in 1865. From this moment, neighborhood of San Nicolás, what we call Lavalle and Corrientes became the city´s “Downtown”, was finally finished.

Plaza del Parque, Benito Panunzi, ca. 1867. Timeline

1580 Layout of the city of La Trinidad and distribution of pieces of land.

1584 Construction of the first Main Church.

1721 Construction of Saint Nicholas of Bari Church. .

1757 Construction of Paseo de la Alameda.

1791 Opening of today´s Cathedral.

1794 Construction of Commerce Consulate.

1822 Opening of the Artillery Park.

1857 Opening of the Western Railway.

1862 New building of the Stock Exchange: origin of the City.

1865 Coliseum: first theatre in the north of the City.

1904 Foundation stone of the Palace of Justice.

1908 Opening of the Colón Theatre.

1911 Florida Pedestrian Street.

1913 First part of Diagonal Norte.

1936 Construction of the Obelisk.

1937 First part of Av. 9 de Julio. Did you know that...

… Pierre Benoit, who may be the son of Louis XVI of France, participated in the construction of the Metropolitan Cathedral´s façade?

… that the building of Banco de la Nación Argentina has de biggest copula in the world?

… that José Hernández finished writing Martín Fierro in one of the bedrooms of Hotel Argentino, where the AFI building is The Cathedral, Pellegrini, 1829. currently at?

… that the Liceo Theatre is the oldest theatre … the first Colón Theatre was located on the hall of the city? corner of Rivadavia and Reconquista?

… the first branch of Bank Boston, outside … Martín del barco Centenera urged the the United Stated, was in Buenos Aires? citizens of the city to build the Main Church in the area designated by Garay in 1593? … Estación del Parque, the terminal of the Western Railway, used to be located where the Colón Theatre is currently at?

… the first hydraulic elevator of the city was in the Hotel de la Paix between 1872 and 1897, in today´s corner of Leandro N. Alem and Bartolomé Mitre? Former names of some of the streets of San Nicolás Before Now Temple Viamonte

Opening of the Western Railway, Parque Lavalle unidentified author, 1857. Cuyo Sarmiento Cangallo Tte. Gral. Juan D. Perón Piedad Bartolomé Mitre La Plata Rivadavia Paseo de Julio Leandro N. Alem La Paz Reconquista Catedral San Martín Artes Carlos Pellegrini Garantías Rodríguez Peña Legends and curious stories of San Nicolás

As in the case of the most important cities of to the insistence of the saint, they decided the world, Buenos Aires has a magical space: to declare him as patron of the city. Today, there are a number of myths, legends, and it is specially remembered with a special stories that make up a considerable part of emphasis in the Metropolitan Cathedral. its collective memory, and they took place in the city, in San Nicolás precisely. Here are • Christ of patience: In La Merced Church, some of them: there is a Christ known as “Christ of humility and patience”. Legend has it that • Hueco de las Ánimas: When the pieces of it was carved by an indigenous person land were distributed, Juan de Garay granted named “José”, who had learned the trade in for himself the piece of land of Rivadavia the Jesuit missions. Afterwards, the image and Reconquista, where Banco Nación is acquired a miraculous fame. It was then currently at. Afterwards, the first main that an Amerindian, who lived in poverty, church was built here and it was abandoned got sick badly. A relative told him to go for many years. Towards the 17th century, it see Chirst, he asked him if he knew him, was known as Hueco de las Ánimas, and no and Joseph answered: “If I know him? I´ve one wanted to go through this area because known him since he was an orange tree”. they thought there were ghosts (probably because the first cemetery of the main • Caballeros de la Noche [Knights of the church had been here). In the 19th century, Night]: one of the most curious stories of two theatres were built here and then, Banco Lavalle Square is related to the kidnap of Nación. However, the employees of the bank Inés Indart de Dorrego´s body. In 1881, her still think there are ghosts in the building. daughter, Felisa Dorrego, who lived at Miró Palace (in front of today´s Templo Libertad), • Patron Saint: the Patron Saint of the city received a note signed by the Knights was chosen on October 20th, 1580. Legend which informed her of her kidnapping and has it that there were several pieces of paper ransom. In the end, the police discovered with the names of different saints inside a that the coffin had been slightly moved in bag. A draw was the cemetery. They arrested the leader of made and the paper the band, a Belgian that was chosen aristocrat: Alfonso was Saint Martin Kerchowen de of Tours. Since the Peñaranda. It is citizens refused curious that only to accept a French after 2 years of being saint, 3 different imprisoned, they pieces of paper were released since were taken from the the felony they were bag. Saint Martin convicted for was not of Tours came contemplated in the out 3 times. Due Penal Code.

San Martín and the beggar, El Greco, 1597. Rafael Calzada, defender of the Knights. Touring San Nicolás

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1. Obelisk / Republic Square: this 4. Templo Libertad: The Synagogue of the monument goes back to 1936 and it is Argentine Israelite Congregation was the the most important symbol of our city, first in the city. Its foundation stone was where massive concentrations and sport placed in 1897. celebrations take place. 5. Palace of Justice: located were the 2. Lavalle Square: one of the main squares Artillery Park was previously at. The of the city. It was built in late 18th century in Supreme Court of Justice is located at this the Hueco de Zamudio. monumental construction.

3. Colón Theatre: one of the three most 6. La Piedad Church and Narrow St: this important lyric theatres in the world. It church used to be a chapel back in 1752. is located were the main station of the The current building was finished in 1895. Western Railway was previously at. It was In front of this building, there is a U-shape opened in 1908. narrow street. Arturo Gramajo made it a narrow street. Colón Theatre. Palace of Justice. Touring San Nicolás

7. Saint Michael Church and Roberto Arlt Square: the Charity Brotherhood used to be located here. One of the first churches was built here in 1738. The General Women´s Hospital was located where Roberto Arlt Square was previously at. It was also inaugurated by the Brotherhood.

8. Av. Corrientes: the most important symbol of the city´s nightlife. Most of the bookshops, theatres and bars are located here. It was broadened in 1930 (See Top 5 emblematic sceneries).

9. Diagonal Norte: This Avenue was part Galerías Pacífico. of a project of diagonal avenues. The first block was finished in 1913. Towards 1930, the most important companies of the city 11. Güemes Gallery: one of the first were located on this Avenue. (See Top 5 skyscrapers of the city. There is a narrow emblematic buildings). street that joins Florida with San Martín, similar to Vittorio Emmanuelle de Milán 10. Florida Street: it is a pedestrian Gallery. (See Skyscrapers Chart). street since 1911. It is the most important commercial street in the city. 12. Galerías Pacífico: it used to be Tiendas Bon Marché. Today, it is a shopping mall La Piedad Church. with a vault and frescos made by Berni and Spilimbergo, among others.

13. Saint Catherine Church: one of the oldest churches of the city. It goes back to 1745.

14. Comega Building: one of the most important symbols of the city´s modernity. It was the first building with elevators with automatic doors. (See Skyscrapper chart).

15. Former Correo Central: today´s Centro Cultural Kirchner [Kirchner Cultural Center]. It was the Post and Telecommunications Palace in 1928.

16. The City: financial area of the city. It was created in 1860 where the Stock Exchange used to be. Today it is the Numismatic Museum.

17. La Merced Church: one of the first churches of the city. Today´s building was finished in 1779. Touring San Nicolás

18. Saint John the Baptist Anglican 20. Metropolitan Cathedral: it is the Cathedral: Latin-America´s first protestant most important catholic temple of the temple. It has a neoclassic façade and it was country and the Archdiocese of Buenos finished in 1831. Aires. Today´s Pope used to belong to this Archdiocese. 19. Banco de la Nación Argentina: this work was led by the architect Alejandro Bustillo. It occupies a complete block and it has de biggest copula in the world. Saint John the Baptist Anglican Cathedral. TOP 5 | Emblematic Buildings of Diagonal Norte

1. Bank Boston Building (Florida 99): Bank Boston inaugurated this building to use it as its main branch in Buenos Aires in 1924. It has a neo plateresque façade. Today it belongs to the ICBC. It was the first prominent building that was built on this avenue.

2. YPF Building (Av. Roque Sáenz Peña 777): it has a rationalist style. It is used as the premise of Yacimientos Petrolíferos Fiscales. It was opened in 1938.

3. Volta Building (Av. Roque Sáenz Peña Shell Building. 832): it was finished in 1935 for the Spanish American Electricity Company and it is one of the most representative buildings in the Skyscrapers avenue. It was designed by the architect Buenos Aires stood out for its Alejandro Bustillo. skyscrapers for a number of years. Outside the United States, a number of 4. Shell Building (Av. Roque Sánez Peña the most important skyscrapers of the 788): it was opened in 1936 for the petrol world were in Buenos Aires, and in San company Shell. It has a clock similar to the Nicolás precisely. Towards 1960, these one in the London. It has an art-deco style, were the most prominent: and today it is used as an office building. Alas Building: 132 m. 5. Bencich Building (Av. Roque Sánez Peña Safico Building: 92 m. 615): it is known as the “building with the Comega Building: 85 m. two cupolas” and it was finished by the Building in Callao and Lavalle: 77 m. Bencich construction company in 1927. Güemes Gallery: 76 m. La Sudamérica Building: 74 m. Volta Building. Building in Viamonte and Esmeralda : 67 m. General Archive of the Nation: 66 m. Ameghino Popular Bank: 66 m. Podestá Clinic: 63 m.

Comega Building. TOP 5 | Emblematic sceneries of Av. Corrientes

1. Ópera Cinema Theatre (Av. Corrientes 860): one of the greatest art-deco exponents of our country. It was opened in 1936 where the former Ópera Theatre used to be located at.

2. Gran Rex Cinema Theatre (Av. Corrientes 857): it is the biggest theatre of the city, with a capacity of 3262 people. It is a symbol of modern architecture, designed by Alberto Prebisch.

3. Luna Park Stadium (Bouchard 465): it is the boxing mecca of our country and it was inaugurated in 1932. It has a capacity of 9290 spectators. A series of important events took place here, such as the funeral of Carlos Gardel or the concert Adiós Sui Generis.

Gran Rex Cinema Theatre.

Ópera Cinema Theatre. 4. Gral. San Martín Municipal Theatre (Av. Corrientes 1530): it belongs to the Buenos Aires Theatre Complex and it forms an ensemble with the homonym Cultural Center. It is one of the most important Latin- American theatres.

5. Metropolitan Cinema Theatre (Av. Corrientes 1343): this beautiful art-deco theatre was inaugurated in 1937. Image Gallery

Güemes Gallery in mid 20th century.

Paseo de la Alameda, unidentified author, 1854.

Northeron, Southern and Ensenada Railway Central Corrientes and Florida in 1936. Station, Christiano Junior, 1876.

Paseo de Julio, Carlos Feltcher, ca. 1877 Terrace of the Gath & Chaves building towards 1915. Central Board

Central Board of Historical Research Central Board of Historical Research of the City of Buenos Aires by Arnaldo Ignacio Adolfo Miranda Federation Non-profit association The Central Board of Historical Research Legal Entity C 1657583 of the City of Buenos Aires was created on October 31st 1968 as a non-profit association Location and Library: dedicated to the rescue, preservation and Piedras 1417, PB C (C1140ABE) promotion of the historical heritage of the city City of Buenos Aires and its neighborhoods. Currently, it comprises seventy-three entities that, with special diligence and dedication, have reactivated the Tel.: 4307-3413 study of the city´s past. The institutions are divided into four statutory Email: [email protected] categories, such as, permanent members, acceding members, correspondents and Webpage: www.juntacentralba.com.ar institutional honorary members. In this sense, it is important to stand out that, from Twitter: @juntacentralBA the aforementioned entities, forty-four act as permanent members representing each Junta Central de Estudios of the forty-four neighborhoods of the city. Facebook: Currently, the presidency of the board is led Históricos de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires by Prof. Nélida Rosa Pareja. @juntacentralbuenosaires In order to provide the board with a definite institutionalization and better organization, towards 1997, a new statute that was presented to the General Inspection of Justice assistance of all its members. Some of the was passed on august 2nd 1999, and it has activities are: been operating as a legal entity since then. From then on, the membership was limited • Expert advice to public organisms. to the four categories that were previously • Library and newspaper library specialized in mentioned. The president of each institution the history of the city and its neighborhoods. is the natural delegate. There can also be a • History Congresses of the City of Buenos permanent and substitute member for each Aires every 3 years. federate member. • Institutional agreements with public and The coat of arms of the City of Buenos Aires private entities dedicated to training, teaching has been used as a logo since 1981. It was education, exchange of publications, academic created at the request of Governor Jacinto de cooperation and fulfillment of investigation Láriz in 1649. This coat of arms corresponds projects. to the second Coat of Arms of the city-port, • Courses, seminars and conferences. which was made official in the session of • Book Fair of the History of the City of November 5th, 1649. Buenos Aires The long path of the Board can be guaranteed Magazine Históricas de la Ciudad, unique in due to the fulfillment of a number of works its type. carried out throughout its history with the • Various publications. Cultural-Historical Heritage Observatory

The Cultural-Historical Heritage Observatory was created under resolution 1534/GCABA/MCGC/2011 and it functions as an agreement between the Gerencia Operativa de Patrimonio of the DGPMyCH and the different Historical Research Boards of the neighborhoods, through the Central Board of Historical Research of the City of Buenos Aires. Its main goal is to work with the Historical Research Boards (through the Main Board) in different topics related to the Cultural-Historical Heritage of our city. network that would identify and monitor Its responsibilities are: a) gather information buildings and/or a collection with heritage and investigate on the heritage values of the interest for a future preservation. neighborhoods of the City of Buenos Aires, b) cultivate knowledge and information Among the actions carried out with the related to the city and its neighborhoods, Boards of Historical Research, you can find: C) promote training lectures, archive courses, investigations related to our work • Maps “Memory Tours”: aimed at rescuing at the Gerencia Operativa de Patrimonio, its valuable existing tangible heritage in d) indentify potential archaeological and/ the 48 neighborhoods of the City of Buenos or paleontological sites and e) organize a Aires.

• Cycle “Urban Prints”: aimed at rescuing areas of the city´s urban layout with peculiarities worth highlighting.

• Cycle “Football Landmarks”: aimed at rescuing all the sites of the city used to create the history of the most popular sport of our city, which has the most stadiums in the world.

Contact: [email protected]