Stokes Drift for Random Gravity Waves

JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICALRESEARCH •'OI.. 74. No. 28, DECEMBER20. 1969

StokesDrift for Random Gravity Waves

KERN E. KENYOX

Graduate School o/ Oceanography,University o/Rhode Island Kingston, Rhode Island 02881

The Stokes drift velocity for random surfacegravity waves is given in. terms of the direc- tional energy spectrum.The drift velocity is evaluated for empirical forms of the spectrum for fully developed seas. The result is that the surface drift velocity increaseslinearly with in- creasing wind speed and the ratio of surface drift speed to wind speed at 19.5 meters is between 1.6 and 3.6%. The stokes drift velocity may therefore contribute significantly to the total mean surface currents in the ocean.

2 Introduction. The modified form of the a• = gk tanh kh (2) Stokes drift velocity [Stokes, 1847] for a random sea is briefly considered.For a statisti- where g is the accelerationof gravity and h is cally stationary and horizontally homogeneous the constant mean depth. The two-dimensional wave field, the total wave drift is the sum of energyspectrum F(k) is definedby the drifts of the individual wave components. pg(•'2(x,t))= 2pg• (VV*) The expressionfor the Stokes drift, given here k in terms of the full two-dimensionM energy spectrum for arbitrary constantmean depth, is more general than expressionsgiven by Chang [1969] and Bye [1967]. where p is the constant water density and the Bye [1967] computedthe Stokesdrift for the angle brackets denote the ensemble mean. equilibrium range ((0-5 law portion) of the wind Owing to the statisticalassumptions, the follow- wave spectrum, and Chin and Pierson [1969] ing property holds have computed examplesof the surface drift for the whole North Atlantic. The application made here to fully developedseas uses the em- The (ensemble) mean second-orderdrift ve- pirical spectralforms of Piersonand Moskowitz locity for the wave field (1) is easily derived [1964], giving the result that the ratio of by applying the method of Stokes [1847] (see Stokes drift speedat the surface to wind speed also Phillips [1966, article 3.3]). This method at 19.5 meters is between 1.6 and 3.6%. The involvesthe expansionof the motion of a fluid Stokes drift decreasesrapidly within a few particle about its mean position. The total meters of the surface. mean drift is the superpositionof the drifts for Stokesdrift. Assumea statistically stationary each wave component; cross products contain- and horizontally homogeneouswave field and let ing pairs of wave componentswith different the surfacedisplacement •'(x, t) be representedby wave numbers do not contribute to the mean •'(x, t) = • [,kei(k .... t) q_•k,e-i(k .... drift becauseof property 4. The resultingStokes k drift velocity U(z) for the two-dimensional (1) spectrum and for arbitrary depth is where x and k are the horizontal coordinate and wave number vectors, respectively, and vk is a U(z)= 1/p k random Fourier amplitude (•* is its complex conjugate). The relation of frequency (o•) to wave number (k) is ' coshsinh2(z2kh + a)] & (5) Copyright ¸ 1969 by the American Geophysical Union. where z is the mean vertical position of a fluid

6991 6992 KERN E. KENYON particle measured positive upward from the empirical spectra of the form (10) to represent mean surface (z -- 0). In this form equation 5 the oceanwave field under fully developedcon- is alsogeneral with respectto surfacetension T, ditions in deep water. They fitted three spectra when the right sideof equation2 and the energy correspondingto n -- 2, 3, 4 to wave data for spectrum definedby (3) are multiplied by the wind speedsW between 10 and 20 m/sec meas- factor 1 q- Tk•/pg. The conditionsunder which ured at an elevation of 19.5 meters; the form (5) is valid are for n -- 4 gave a slightly better fit than the other two.

k [•[<

E2(,•) -- (2,r/pg) ].•(•o) (v --•o/2•r)is shown STOKESDRIFT U2 (z),m/sec 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 in Figure 1 for the samethree wind speeds.The i i i i i i drift velocities U3(z) and U,(z) (not shown) correspondingto ]3(•o) and L(•o) were computed numericallyand are qualitatively similar to Fig- ure 2; i.e., the surface values are lower as given by (12) but have a similar rapid decreasewith depth in the upper few meters. As can be seen from (8), this rapid decreaseof the drift velocity with depth is due to the fact that the high-frequency componentscontribute only in a thin layer near the surface. Chang [1969] obtained agreement between theoretical and measured values of the surface •o drift for random waves generated in a wave Fig. 2. The Stokes drift velocity U2(z), based tank, but measured values of the Stokes drift on the spectrum in Figure 1, as a function of the have not yet been made in the ocean.A review depth z for the three wind speeds 10, 15, and of previous investigationsby Tomczak [1964] 20 m/sec. indicates, however, that aside from regions of strong permanent currents, several reported Figure2 andtherefore gives qualitative support values for the ratio of total surface drift to wind for the existenceof the Stokes drift in the ocean. speedvary widely from about 1.4 to 4.3%, the If the surfacedrift valuesfor a fully devel- largest values correspondingto currents meas- oped sea do apply to the ocean,(12) indicates ured right at the surface, and the smallest that the Stokesdrift couldcontribute signifi- values corresponding to currents measured a cantlyto the total surfacedrift. However,the few meters below the surface. This decrease in values in (12) representrather extreme esti- the ratio with depth agrees qualitatively with matesfor the Stokesdrift in the ocean,because fully developedseas occur rather infrequently. ,oo Discussion.The effectof an angularspread in the energy spectrum would be to decrease

directionof wavepropagation. For example,for 8o 2om•,oc the symmetricStokes driftspreading component factor in the principle

•" whereC• is determinedby (9), theStokes drift in the directiona -- 0 is reducedat all depths • over values for the unidirectionalspectrum if_4o (m --• oc)by thefactor 0.91 for rn -- 4 and • 0.85 for rn -- 2. Thus, the drift valuesmight be 10 or 15% smallerthan the valuesgiven by 2o (12) and (13). The effect of finite depth has not been considered,but, basedon (8), (9), and the discussion following(7), it may be anticipated,that o o o.i 0.2 o.• in general the Stokesdrift values at the surface FREQUE.C¾,. cp, computed in (12) would be increased if finite Fig.1. Theempirical spectrum E,(•) asa depthwere taken into account, provided that functionoffrequency • for the three wind speeds the empirical spectra (10) withthe constants 10, 15,and 20 m/sec. (11) alsohold for finite depth. 6994 KERN E. KENYON

In applying equation 5 to the ocean, the REFERENCES fact that the integration in (8) was extended Bye, J. A. T., The wave-drift current, J. Mar. to infinitefrequencies, whereas the spectralform Res., 25(1), 95-102, 1967. is not well known for frequenciesgreater than Chang, M.~S., Mass transport in deep-water long- about 10 ttz (above which surface tension crested random gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 74(6), 1515-1536, 1969. effectsbecome important), probablydoes not Chin, H.. and W. J. Pierson, Jr., Mass transport effectthe valuesin (12) and (13) very much. and thermal undulations caused by large and For example,the contributionto U2(0) from small scale variability in the Stokes' mass trans- frequenciesin the range 10 ttz _< v _< • is port due to random waves, Proceedings o] the only 2.4% for a wind speedof 10 m/sec and Military Oceanography Symposium, Seattle, Washington, May 1969 (in press). 1.2% for a wind speedof 20 m/sec. Hasselmann,K., On the non-linear energy transfer Friction may have an important influenceon in a gravity wave spectrum, 2, Conservation the Stokesdrift, and this influencehas not been theorems; wave-particle analogy; irreversi- taken into account.However, the results of bility, J. Fluid Mech., 15(2), 273-281, 1963. Longuet-Higgins[1953] and Chang [1969] in- Longuet-Higgins, M. S., Mass transport in water waves, Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. London, A, 245, dicate that the surfacedrift may be nearly 535-581, 1953. unchangedby friction, althoughthe gradient Phillips, O. M., The Dynamics o] the Upper of the drift velocitynear the surfacemay be Ocean, 261 pp., Cambridge University Press, doubled. New York, 1966. A more seriouslimitation on the application Pierson, W. J., and L. Moskowitz, A proposed spectral form for fully developed wind seas of (5) to the oceanis that for fully developed based on the similarity theory of S. A. seaswave breakingoccurs, and this violatesthe Kitaigorodskii, J. Geophys. Res., 69(24), 5151- first conditionin (6) under which (5) was de- 5190, 1964. rived. It is also unclear to what extent the Stokes, G. G., On the theory of oscillatory waves, Trans. Cambridge Phil. Soc., 8, 441-455, 1847. irrotationaltheory, on which (5) is based,holds Tomczak, G., Investigations with drift cards to for an active wind wave field. Therefore, the determine the influence of the wind on surface values in (12) and (13) should be considered currents,in In Studies on Oceanography,edited only as estimatesof the Stokesdrift velocity by K. Yoshida, pp. 129-139, University of for fully developedconditions in the deepocean. Washington Press, Seattle, 1964.

Acknowledgment. This researchwas supported (Received July 17, 1969; by the Office of Naval Research. revised August 20, 1969.)