Upslope Internal-Wave Stokes Drift, and Compensating Downslope Eulerian Mean Currents, Observed Above a Lakebed
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Transport Due to Transient Progressive Waves of Small As Well As of Large Amplitude
This draft was prepared using the LaTeX style file belonging to the Journal of Fluid Mechanics 1 Transport due to Transient Progressive Waves Juan M. Restrepo1,2 , Jorge M. Ram´ırez 3 † 1Department of Mathematics, Oregon State University, Corvallis OR 97330 USA 2Kavli Institute of Theoretical Physics, University of California at Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara CA 93106 USA. 3Departamento de Matem´aticas, Universidad Nacional de Colombia Sede Medell´ın, Medell´ın Colombia (Received xx; revised xx; accepted xx) We describe and analyze the mean transport due to numerically-generated transient progressive waves, including breaking waves. The waves are packets and are generated with a boundary-forced air-water two-phase Navier Stokes solver. The analysis is done in the Lagrangian frame. The primary aim of this study is to explain how, and in what sense, the transport generated by transient waves is larger than the transport generated by steady waves. Focusing on a Lagrangian framework kinematic description of the parcel paths it is clear that the mean transport is well approximated by an irrotational approximation of the velocity. For large amplitude waves the parcel paths in the neighborhood of the free surface exhibit increased dispersion and lingering transport due to the generation of vorticity. Armed with this understanding it is possible to formulate a simple Lagrangian model which captures the transport qualitatively for a large range of wave amplitudes. The effect of wave breaking on the mean transport is accounted for by parametrizing dispersion via a simple stochastic model of the parcel path. The stochastic model is too simple to capture dispersion, however, it offers a good starting point for a more comprehensive model for mean transport and dispersion. -
Arxiv:2002.03434V3 [Physics.Flu-Dyn] 25 Jul 2020
APS/123-QED Modified Stokes drift due to surface waves and corrugated sea-floor interactions with and without a mean current Akanksha Gupta Department of Mechanical Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur, U.P. 208016, India.∗ Anirban Guhay School of Science and Engineering, University of Dundee, Dundee DD1 4HN, UK. (Dated: July 28, 2020) arXiv:2002.03434v3 [physics.flu-dyn] 25 Jul 2020 1 Abstract In this paper, we show that Stokes drift may be significantly affected when an incident inter- mediate or shallow water surface wave travels over a corrugated sea-floor. The underlying mech- anism is Bragg resonance { reflected waves generated via nonlinear resonant interactions between an incident wave and a rippled bottom. We theoretically explain the fundamental effect of two counter-propagating Stokes waves on Stokes drift and then perform numerical simulations of Bragg resonance using High-order Spectral method. A monochromatic incident wave on interaction with a patch of bottom ripple yields a complex interference between the incident and reflected waves. When the velocity induced by the reflected waves exceeds that of the incident, particle trajectories reverse, leading to a backward drift. Lagrangian and Lagrangian-mean trajectories reveal that surface particles near the up-wave side of the patch are either trapped or reflected, implying that the rippled patch acts as a non-surface-invasive particle trap or reflector. On increasing the length and amplitude of the rippled patch; reflection, and thus the effectiveness of the patch, increases. The inclusion of realistic constant current shows noticeable differences between Lagrangian-mean trajectories with and without the rippled patch. -
The Stokes Drift in Ocean Surface Drift Prediction
EGU2020-9752 https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-egu2020-9752 EGU General Assembly 2020 © Author(s) 2021. This work is distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License. The Stokes drift in ocean surface drift prediction Michel Tamkpanka Tamtare, Dany Dumont, and Cédric Chavanne Université du Québec à Rimouski, Institut des Sciences de la mer de Rimouski, Océanographie Physique, Canada ([email protected]) Ocean surface drift forecasts are essential for numerous applications. It is a central asset in search and rescue and oil spill response operations, but it is also used for predicting the transport of pelagic eggs, larvae and detritus or other organisms and solutes, for evaluating ecological isolation of marine species, for tracking plastic debris, and for environmental planning and management. The accuracy of surface drift forecasts depends to a large extent on the quality of ocean current, wind and waves forecasts, but also on the drift model used. The standard Eulerian leeway drift model used in most operational systems considers near-surface currents provided by the top grid cell of the ocean circulation model and a correction term proportional to the near-surface wind. Such formulation assumes that the 'wind correction term' accounts for many processes including windage, unresolved ocean current vertical shear, and wave-induced drift. However, the latter two processes are not necessarily linearly related to the local wind velocity. We propose three other drift models that attempt to account for the unresolved near-surface current shear by extrapolating the near-surface currents to the surface assuming Ekman dynamics. Among them two models consider explicitly the Stokes drift, one without and the other with a wind correction term. -
A Numerical Study of the Long- and Short-Term Temperature Variability and Thermal Circulation in the North Sea
JANUARY 2003 LUYTEN ET AL. 37 A Numerical Study of the Long- and Short-Term Temperature Variability and Thermal Circulation in the North Sea PATRICK J. LUYTEN Management Unit of the Mathematical Models, Brussels, Belgium JOHN E. JONES AND ROGER PROCTOR Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory, Bidston, United Kingdom (Manuscript received 3 January 2001, in ®nal form 4 April 2002) ABSTRACT A three-dimensional numerical study is presented of the seasonal, semimonthly, and tidal-inertial cycles of temperature and density-driven circulation within the North Sea. The simulations are conducted using realistic forcing data and are compared with the 1989 data of the North Sea Project. Sensitivity experiments are performed to test the physical and numerical impact of the heat ¯ux parameterizations, turbulence scheme, and advective transport. Parameterizations of the surface ¯uxes with the Monin±Obukhov similarity theory provide a relaxation mechanism and can partially explain the previously obtained overestimate of the depth mean temperatures in summer. Temperature strati®cation and thermocline depth are reasonably predicted using a variant of the Mellor±Yamada turbulence closure with limiting conditions for turbulence variables. The results question the common view to adopt a tuned background scheme for internal wave mixing. Two mechanisms are discussed that describe the feedback of the turbulence scheme on the surface forcing and the baroclinic circulation, generated at the tidal mixing fronts. First, an increased vertical mixing increases the depth mean temperature in summer through the surface heat ¯ux, with a restoring mechanism acting during autumn. Second, the magnitude and horizontal shear of the density ¯ow are reduced in response to a higher mixing rate. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
World Ocean Thermocline Weakening and Isothermal Layer Warming
applied sciences Article World Ocean Thermocline Weakening and Isothermal Layer Warming Peter C. Chu * and Chenwu Fan Naval Ocean Analysis and Prediction Laboratory, Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA 93943, USA; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-831-656-3688 Received: 30 September 2020; Accepted: 13 November 2020; Published: 19 November 2020 Abstract: This paper identifies world thermocline weakening and provides an improved estimate of upper ocean warming through replacement of the upper layer with the fixed depth range by the isothermal layer, because the upper ocean isothermal layer (as a whole) exchanges heat with the atmosphere and the deep layer. Thermocline gradient, heat flux across the air–ocean interface, and horizontal heat advection determine the heat stored in the isothermal layer. Among the three processes, the effect of the thermocline gradient clearly shows up when we use the isothermal layer heat content, but it is otherwise when we use the heat content with the fixed depth ranges such as 0–300 m, 0–400 m, 0–700 m, 0–750 m, and 0–2000 m. A strong thermocline gradient exhibits the downward heat transfer from the isothermal layer (non-polar regions), makes the isothermal layer thin, and causes less heat to be stored in it. On the other hand, a weak thermocline gradient makes the isothermal layer thick, and causes more heat to be stored in it. In addition, the uncertainty in estimating upper ocean heat content and warming trends using uncertain fixed depth ranges (0–300 m, 0–400 m, 0–700 m, 0–750 m, or 0–2000 m) will be eliminated by using the isothermal layer. -
Internal Gravity Waves: from Instabilities to Turbulence Chantal Staquet, Joël Sommeria
Internal gravity waves: from instabilities to turbulence Chantal Staquet, Joël Sommeria To cite this version: Chantal Staquet, Joël Sommeria. Internal gravity waves: from instabilities to turbulence. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, Annual Reviews, 2002, 34, pp.559-593. 10.1146/an- nurev.fluid.34.090601.130953. hal-00264617 HAL Id: hal-00264617 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00264617 Submitted on 4 Feb 2020 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution| 4.0 International License INTERNAL GRAVITY WAVES: From Instabilities to Turbulence C. Staquet and J. Sommeria Laboratoire des Ecoulements Geophysiques´ et Industriels, BP 53, 38041 Grenoble Cedex 9, France; e-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Key Words geophysical fluid dynamics, stratified fluids, wave interactions, wave breaking Abstract We review the mechanisms of steepening and breaking for internal gravity waves in a continuous density stratification. After discussing the instability of a plane wave of arbitrary amplitude in an infinite medium at rest, we consider the steep- ening effects of wave reflection on a sloping boundary and propagation in a shear flow. The final process of breaking into small-scale turbulence is then presented. -
Shear Dispersion in the Thermocline and the Saline Intrusion$
Continental Shelf Research ] (]]]]) ]]]–]]] Contents lists available at SciVerse ScienceDirect Continental Shelf Research journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/csr Research papers Shear dispersion in the thermocline and the saline intrusion$ Hsien-Wang Ou a,n, Xiaorui Guan b, Dake Chen c,d a Division of Ocean and Climate Physics, Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory, Columbia University, 61 Rt. 9W, Palisades, NY 10964, United States b Consultancy Division, Fugro GEOS, 6100 Hillcroft, Houston, TX 77081, United States c Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory, Columbia University, United States d State Key Laboratory of Satellite Ocean Environment Dynamics, Hangzhou, China article info abstract Article history: Over the mid-Atlantic shelf of the North America, there is a pronounced shoreward intrusion of the Received 11 March 2011 saltier slope water along the seasonal thermocline, whose genesis remains unexplained. Taking note of Received in revised form the observed broad-band baroclinic motion, we postulate that it may propel the saline intrusion via the 15 March 2012 shear dispersion. Through an analytical model, we first examine the shear-induced isopycnal diffusivity Accepted 19 March 2012 (‘‘shear diffusivity’’ for short) associated with the monochromatic forcing, which underscores its varied even anti-diffusive short-term behavior and the ineffectiveness of the internal tides in driving the shear Keywords: dispersion. We then derive the spectral representation of the long-term ‘‘canonical’’ shear diffusivity, Saline intrusion which is found to be the baroclinic power band-passed by a diffusivity window in the log-frequency Shear dispersion space. Since the baroclinic power spectrum typically plateaus in the low-frequency band spanned by Lateral diffusion the diffusivity window, canonical shear diffusivity is simply 1/8 of this low-frequency plateau — Isopycnal diffusivity Tracer dispersion independent of the uncertain diapycnal diffusivity. -
Stokes Drift and Net Transport for Two-Dimensional Wave Groups in Deep Water
Stokes drift and net transport for two-dimensional wave groups in deep water T.S. van den Bremer & P.H. Taylor Department of Engineering Science, University of Oxford [email protected], [email protected] Introduction This paper explores Stokes drift and net subsurface transport by non-linear two-dimensional wave groups with realistic underlying frequency spectra in deep wa- ter. It combines analytical expressions from second- order random wave theory with higher order approxi- mate solutions from Creamer et al (1989) to give accu- rate subsurface kinematics using the H-operator of Bate- man, Swan & Taylor (2003). This class of Fourier series based numerical methods is extended by proposing an M-operator, which enables direct evaluation of the net transport underneath a wave group, and a new conformal Figure 1: Illustration of the localized irrotational mass mapping primer with remarkable properties that removes circulation moving with the passing wave group. The the persistent problem of high-frequency contamination four fluxes, the Stokes transport in the near surface re- for such calculations. gion and in the direction of wave propagation (left to Although the literature has examined Stokes drift in right); the return flow in the direction opposite to that regular waves in great detail since its first systematic of wave propagation (right to left); the downflow to the study by Stokes (1847), the motion of fluid particles right of the wave group; and the upflow to the left of the transported by a (focussed) wave group has received con- wave group, are equal. siderably less attention. -
Final Program
Final Program 1st International Workshop on Waves, Storm Surges and Coastal Hazards Hilton Hotel Liverpool Sunday September 10 6:00 - 8:00 p.m. Workshop Registration Desk Open at Hilton Hotel Monday September 11 7:30 - 8:30 a.m. Workshop Registration Desk Open 8:30 a.m. Welcome and Introduction Session A: Wave Measurement -1 Chair: Val Swail A1 Quantifying Wave Measurement Differences in Historical and Present Wave Buoy Systems 8:50 a.m. R.E. Jensen, V. Swail, R.H. Bouchard, B. Bradshaw and T.J. Hesser Presenter: Jensen Field Evaluation of the Wave Module for NDBC’s New Self-Contained Ocean Observing A2 Payload (SCOOP 9:10 a.m. Richard Bouchard Presenter: Bouchard A3 Correcting for Changes in the NDBC Wave Records of the United States 9:30 a.m. Elizabeth Livermont Presenter: Livermont 9:50 a.m. Break Session B: Wave Measurement - 2 Chair: Robert Jensen B1 Spectral shape parameters in storm events from different data sources 10:30 a.m. Anne Karin Magnusson Presenter: Magnusson B2 Open Ocean Storm Waves in the Arctic 10:50 a.m. Takuji Waseda Presenter: Waseda B3 A project of concrete stabilized spar buoy for monitoring near-shore environement Sergei I. Badulin, Vladislav V. Vershinin, Andrey G. Zatsepin, Dmitry V. Ivonin, Dmitry G. 11:10 a.m. Levchenko and Alexander G. Ostrovskii Presenter: Badulin B4 Measuring the ‘First Five’ with HF radar Final Program 11:30 a.m. Lucy R Wyatt Presenter: Wyatt The use and limitations of satellite remote sensing for the measurement of wind speed and B5 wave height 11:50 a.m. -
Internal Waves Study on a Narrow Steep Shelf of the Black Sea Using the Spatial Antenna of Line Temperature Sensors
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Internal Waves Study on a Narrow Steep Shelf of the Black Sea Using the Spatial Antenna of Line Temperature Sensors Andrey Serebryany 1,2,* , Elizaveta Khimchenko 1 , Oleg Popov 3, Dmitriy Denisov 2 and Genrikh Kenigsberger 4 1 Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, 117997 Moscow, Russia; [email protected] 2 Andreyev Acoustics Institute, 117036 Moscow, Russia; [email protected] 3 Obukhov Institute of Atmospheric Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, 119017 Moscow, Russia; [email protected] 4 Institute of Ecology of the Academy of Sciences of Abkhazia, Sukhum 384900, Abkhazia; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 4 August 2020; Accepted: 19 October 2020; Published: 22 October 2020 Abstract: The results of investigations into internal waves on a narrow steep shelf of the northeastern coast of the Black Sea are presented here. To measure the parameters of internal waves, the spatial antenna of three autonomous line temperature sensors were equipped in the depth range of 17 to 27 m. In observations that lasted for 10 days, near-inertial internal waves with a period close to 17 h and short-period internal waves with periods of 2–8 min, regularly approaching the coast, were revealed. The wave amplitudes were 4–8 m for inertial waves and 0.5–4 m for short-period internal waves. It was determined that most of the short-period internal waves approached from the southeast direction, from Cape Kodor. A large number of short waves reflected from the coast were also recorded. The intensification of short-period waves with inertial periodicity and the belonging of trains of short waves to crests of inertial waves were identified. -
Upwelling As a Source of Nutrients for the Great Barrier Reef Ecosystems: a Solution to Darwin's Question?
Vol. 8: 257-269, 1982 MARINE ECOLOGY - PROGRESS SERIES Published May 28 Mar. Ecol. Prog. Ser. / I Upwelling as a Source of Nutrients for the Great Barrier Reef Ecosystems: A Solution to Darwin's Question? John C. Andrews and Patrick Gentien Australian Institute of Marine Science, Townsville 4810, Queensland, Australia ABSTRACT: The Great Barrier Reef shelf ecosystem is examined for nutrient enrichment from within the seasonal thermocline of the adjacent Coral Sea using moored current and temperature recorders and chemical data from a year of hydrology cruises at 3 to 5 wk intervals. The East Australian Current is found to pulsate in strength over the continental slope with a period near 90 d and to pump cold, saline, nutrient rich water up the slope to the shelf break. The nutrients are then pumped inshore in a bottom Ekman layer forced by periodic reversals in the longshore wind component. The period of this cycle is 12 to 25 d in summer (30 d year round average) and the bottom surges have an alternating onshore- offshore speed up to 10 cm S-'. Upwelling intrusions tend to be confined near the bottom and phytoplankton development quickly takes place inshore of the shelf break. There are return surface flows which preserve the mass budget and carry silicate rich Lagoon water offshore while nitrogen rich shelf break water is carried onshore. Upwelling intrusions penetrate across the entire zone of reefs, but rarely into the Lagoon. Nutrition is del~veredout of the shelf thermocline to the living coral of reefs by localised upwelling induced by the reefs.