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Taupo & Tongariro Treats

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Taupo & Tongariro Treats Adventure New Zealand A A A P N D P A T K U R A O H A W Taupo and Tongariro TREATS Giving popular Queenstown the flick in favour of skiing an active NZ volcano makes for an awesome family adventure. WORDS AND PICS Huw Kingston 102 103 Adventure New Zealand It seems silly now, looking at A A A P N D P this photograph, two hands A T The family takes time out "Above and beyond the Pinnacles, the impressive K U R A weren't on the rungs. O from whooping their way H A down a Whakapapa run for rocky ridge that forms the eastern boundary of W a Kodak moment. the resort, rose the perfect volcanic cone of Mt Ngauruhoe floating on a cloud sea" Hamilton Tauranga s there nothing that New Zealand can’t make into a theme park? Look, I get the draw of Hobbiton Orakei for people fascinated by Middle Earth and all that – but a park based around prawns? But there we Korako were, on the last activity of our last day in the Rapids Jet Taupo region enjoying the Huka Prawn Park. We Taupo Debretts Huka Prawn park fished for prawns (does one 'fish' for them?), we Taupo Kayaking worked up a sweat in the rain trying to shoot Adventures MAPLake water from a pedal-powered fountain and had as much fun as a Taupo Ifresh prawn dancing under a new moon. I’d taken the family over in two-by-two formation – six of us Family-friendly from three generations – for a week loosely based around skiing ski lift signage Adrift the volcano that is Mt Ruapehu, the highest peak on New is helpful. Tours Zealand’s North Island. Tongariro National Park’s Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ruapehu and its two resorts Whakapapa and Turoa, have rarely registered on the snow radar for most Australians. Occasionally you’ll hear Napier a mumble about ‘snow ... volcano ... lava rocks’ but then we tend Hastings to go back to extolling the delights of the resorts around Queenstown and Wanaka (or for real aficionados, the mad fun to be had on the club fields of the South Island). With my grandkids Anna and Anders stood next to me at the top of a Whakapapa T-Bar, we stared in awe across the long white cloud below our feet. Above and beyond the Pinnacles, the impressive rocky ridge that forms the eastern boundary of the resort, rose the perfect volcanic cone of Mt Ngauruhoe floating Palmerston North on a cloud sea. We whooped at the view and then some more on the long ski down, all very much appreciating the allure of skiing on the North Island. For those Middle Earth types, Mt Ngauruhoe Kate takes a walk with the is the Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings. imposing Mt Ngauruhoe in the background. 104 105 Adventure New Zealand The perfect volcanic cone of Mt Ngauruhoe. VOLCANO'S SECRET WILL SOON BE REVEALED With Whakapapa and Turoa in the midst of a huge investment in new lifts, facilities and snowmaking, we’re going to hear a lot more about them on this side of the Tasman. About the fact that they have the highest elevation and longest runs in NZ. About the fact Whakapapa’s new Snow Factory can make snow in temperatures up to 25 degrees. But perhaps not about the fact you can sit on the toilet high in a mountain cafe and read the Anna has either taken a tumble, posters about what to do in the case of a Lahar. This, my or is simply having a rest. granddaughter informed me, was a volcanic debris flow, not a spicy Southeast Asian dish. It was actually at this point I felt fully justified in taking Anna out of school for a week. Her main project that term was on volcanoes and she’d selected Ruapehu even before she knew we were heading there. Nothing beats field research. As with most ski areas in NZ, on-mountain accommodation is a rarity. The nearest places to stay for Whakapapa are at Whakapapa Village, 6km below the resort or National Park Village, about 25 minutes away. And I thought Australia was the "Whakapapa is all bowls, valleys and master of obvious naming: ‘These mountains with snow on rocky volcanic ridges stretching them; what do you reckon we call them ... The Snowy Mountains?’ But the Kiwis can play the same game, it seems. some distance across the mountain, We split our week with a few nights at Turangi, 40 minutes whilst Turoa has wider runs on a Whakapapa has from Whakapapa and the nearest town of any size, and Taupo, a plenty of runs to further 40 minutes from the resort. Turoa is accessed from the face of Ruapehu that drops down from choose from. cute-as-a-button town of Ohakune, 20 minutes below, which the true summit" has plenty of accommodation. A A A P N D P A SKI SLOPE FOR ALL THE FAMILY A T Skiing an active volcano was a K U R A Despite being on the same mountain – Whakapapa on the north O thrill for all at Whakapapa. H A side, Turoa on the south west corner – the skiing is quite W different. Whilst both are high above the treeline, Whakapapa is all bowls, valleys and rocky volcanic ridges stretching some distance across the mountain, whilst Turoa has wider runs on a face of Ruapehu that drops down from the true summit, 2797m Tahurangi, the high point of the North Island. Certainly our mixed ability family group were able to enjoy skiing together on the open faces at Turoa whilst some of us also enjoyed exploring the more complex topography at Whakapapa. At one point the term sticking together took on a new meaning. Skiing too fast, my grandson caught an edge and tumbled down a slope. Mum rattled into him in an attempt to arrest his slide. They tangled together and slid on together. With grandfather heading in the for the rescue, he joined the rolling party and ultimately dad, hero of the moment, brought us all to a stop, legs and skis everywhere, laughs and tears in tandem. Weather's bad? Grab a lift inside. Schnabel family go the jump with Mt Ngauruhoe behind, Whakapapa Village. 106 107 Adventure New Zealand The Pinnacles with Mount Ngauruhoe floating behind, at Whakapapa. Looking down Happy Valley at Whakapapa. PLAN YOUR NZ TRIP Getting There Numerous airlines will fly you to Auckland. Hiring a car is the best way to give you the freedom to get around and up to the resorts. It is about three hours from Auckland Airport to Taupo and a further 1.5 hours to Whakapapa ski resort. An A A A P N D alternative would be to fly to Wellington P A T which is about 3.5 hours drive to Okahune K U R A O and a further half hour to Turoa ski resort. H A W Skiing Check out the official site for everything to do with Whakapapa and Turoa ski areas: ski conditions, weather, ski passes, hire and lessons and more. www.mtruapehu.com Accommodation and general information North Island Ski Holiday's website will help you plan your ski holiday. Destination Great Lake Taupo www.greatlaketaupo. com is a great resource for everything SNOW-FREE ADVENTURES ABOUND from accommodation to activities. This picture and below: Riding the www.northislandskiholiday.com It certainly wasn’t our plan to ski every day as, apart from the family-friendly W2K trail, Lake Taupo. pleasures of the prawn, there were other family adventures to be Kayaking ticked off. On Lake Taupo itself we skimmed stones across the Taupo Kayaking Adventures runs mirror-calm waters of what is New Zealand’s largest and deepest kayaking tours on Lake Taupo as well as body of water. And, whilst in most similar latitudes only the MTB hire and rides on the Great Lake Trail. brave would swim in mid-winter, this geothermal wonderland www.tka.co.nz ensures there are plenty of places in or near Taupo to get into hot water. Ask the locals where the best places are on the shores of Tongariro River Rafting – various grades the lake or surrounding creeks. A number of operations have of whitewater rafting throughout the year naturally tapped into the hot springs to offer spas and on the upper Tongariro River. everything that goes with them. At Taupo Debretts, as adults www.trr.co.nz soaked sore ski muscles in a hot pool, kids we thought we had tired out on the slope came back to life when they saw Rapids Jet waterslides dropping into the warmth. Hang on – no paddling required through Back on the lake, despite some cold rain showers, we all took the Tongariro River rapids. off in double sea kayaks on a 10km return paddle to the Maori www.rapidsjet.com rock carvings with Taupo Kayaking Adventures. It’s a very doable paddle from Acacia Bay near Taupo and is well worth it to Adrift Tours view cliff carvings that, whilst only 40 years or so old, depict Walking tours including the classic Maori stories that go back 800 years or more. The sun timed its Tongariro Crossing. www.adriftnz.co.nz appearance perfectly as we paddled up to the cliff in perfect late TWO RESORTS, ONE PASS, VARYING WEATHER afternoon light. Chatting to the locals including Couchy, Turoa’s resident Orakei Korako weather forecaster with 40 years' experience who also doubled This thermal park gives a great as owner of Fire, the resort’s Search and Rescue dog, it was introduction to the thermal wonderland apparent that the weather could be very different at the same of the Taupo region.
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