01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:11 AM Page i
New Zealand 3rd Edition
by Adrienne Rewi
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:11 AM Page ii
About the Author Adrienne Rewi is a Christchurch-based freelance photojournalist who writes regu- larly for more than 25 New Zealand and overseas publications, covering most sub- ject areas. She is the author of three nonfiction book titles: Architects at Home: 30 New Zealand Architects in Their Own Homes; Fine Cheese: Gourmet Cheesemaking in New Zealand; and Private Views: Interviews with 20 New Zealand Gardeners. Adri- enne has also worked as a photojournalist in several Asian countries and is currently working on a selection of short stories. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright ©2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572- 4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4292-3 Editor: Myka Carroll Production Editor: Donna Wright Cartographer: John Decamillis Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Fiordland National Park, South Island Back cover photo: Milford Sound For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:11 AM Page iii
Contents
List of Maps vii
What’s New in New Zealand 1
1 The Best of New Zealand 4 1 The Best Beaches ...... 5 9 The Best Museums ...... 11 2 The Best Active Vacations ...... 6 10 The Best Maori Experiences . . . .12 3 The Best of Natural New 11 The Best B&Bs ...... 13 Zealand ...... 6 12 The Best Luxury 4 The Best Tramps ...... 7 Accommodations ...... 13 5 The Best Offbeat Travel 13 The Best Moderately Experiences ...... 8 Priced Accommodations ...... 14 6 The Best Views ...... 9 14 The Best Restaurants ...... 15 7 The Best Drives ...... 10 15 The Best Shopping ...... 16 8 The Best Gardens ...... 10
2 Planning Your Trip to New Zealand 17 1 The Regions in Brief ...... 17 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information ...... 22 Travel Resource ...... 37 3 Entry Requirements & 10 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 38 Customs ...... 22 Online Traveler’s Toolbox ...... 40 4 Money ...... 24 11 Getting There ...... 41 The New Zealand Dollar, Coping with Jet Lag ...... 45 the U.S. Dollar & the 12 Package Deals & Escorted British Pound ...... 25 Tours ...... 45 5 When to Go ...... 25 13 Getting Around ...... 47 New Zealand Calendar 14 Tips on Accommodations ...... 53 of Events ...... 27 Start Packing! ...... 55 6 Travel Insurance ...... 30 15 Tips on Dining ...... 56 7 Health & Safety ...... 32 16 Suggested Itineraries ...... 58 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .33 17 Recommended Books & Films . . .61 9 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 36 Fast Facts: New Zealand ...... 61 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:11 AM Page iv
iv CONTENTS
3 The Active Vacation Planner 65 1 Tramping ...... 65 5 Skiing & Snowboarding ...... 78 Safety in the Great Outdoors . . .66 Sloping Off to Ski School ...... 79 2 Fishing ...... 74 6 Bicycling ...... 81 3 Boating & Other Watersports . . .76 7 Other Guided Tours, 4 Golf ...... 78 Outfitters & Package Deals . . . . .82
4 Auckland 84 1 Orientation ...... 84 5 Exploring Auckland ...... 115 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .90 6 Outdoor Activities & 2 Getting Around ...... 91 Spectator Sports ...... 125 Fast Facts: Auckland ...... 93 7 Shopping ...... 127 Suggested Itineraries ...... 94 The Markets ...... 129 3 Where to Stay ...... 95 8 Auckland After Dark ...... 130 4 Where to Dine ...... 108 Placing Your Bets: A Night at the Casino ...... 132 A Cheap Feed at the Food Halls ...... 109 9 A Side Trip to Waiheke Island . . .133
5 Northland & Coromandel 139 1 Bay of Islands & the 2 Whangarei & Beyond ...... 153 Far North ...... 139 Into the Deep Blue Sea ...... 155 Backpacker Paradise ...... 148 3 The Coromandel Peninsula . . . .157
6 Waikato & Bay of Plenty 167 1 Hamilton & the Waikato ...... 167 2 Tauranga & Bay of Plenty . . . . .174 Underworld Adventures ...... 171
7 Rotorua, Taupo & Tongariro National Park 180 1 Rotorua ...... 180 2 Taupo ...... 201 Suggested Itineraries ...... 183 3 Tongariro National Park ...... 211 Bubble, Bubble, Toil & Trouble: The Geothermal Attractions . . .190
8 Gisborne & Hawkes Bay 217 1 Gisborne & the East Cape . . . .217 A Taste of the Wineries ...... 230 2 Hawkes Bay ...... 227 Especially for Kids ...... 234 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page v
CONTENTS v
9 Taranaki & Wanganui 240 1 New Plymouth: Gateway Dawson Falls ...... 244 to Egmont National Park . . . . .240 2 Wanganui ...... 247
10 Wellington 253 1 Orientation ...... 253 Wellington for Free ...... 275 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . .258 Especially for Kids ...... 277 2 Getting Around ...... 259 6 Outdoor Pursuits ...... 278 Fast Facts: Wellington ...... 260 7 Shopping ...... 280 3 Where to Stay ...... 261 Shopping for Souvenirs ...... 281 4 Where to Dine ...... 266 8 Wellington After Dark ...... 282 5 Exploring Wellington ...... 272 9 A Side Trip to Wairarapa ...... 284 Suggested Itineraries ...... 272 For Antiques Hounds ...... 287
11 Marlborough & Nelson 291 1 Picton & Blenheim ...... 291 3 Abel Tasman National Park Sleeping Among the Grapes . . .295 & Golden Bay ...... 314 2 Nelson, Richmond & Motueka ...... 299
12 Christchurch & Canterbury 319 1 Orientation ...... 319 6 Outdoor Pursuits ...... 346 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . .323 Taking to the Slopes ...... 349 2 Getting Around ...... 324 7 Shopping ...... 350 Fast Facts: Christchurch ...... 325 8 Christchurch After Dark ...... 352 3 Where to Stay ...... 326 Hedging Your Bets ...... 353 Inner City Backpackers ...... 328 9 Side Trips from Christchurch . . .353 4 Where to Dine ...... 332 On the Run ...... 355 5 Exploring Christchurch ...... 338 Hot & Steamy ...... 358 Wine Tours ...... 344 Marine Experiences in An Unforgettable Train Trip . . .346 Kaikoura ...... 359
13 West Coast & the Glaciers 361 1 Westport & Karamea ...... 361 4 Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers . . . .377 2 Greymouth & Lake Brunner . . .368 Lake Matheson & Lake 3 Hokitika: Greenstone, Mapourika ...... 380 Glowworms & Gold ...... 373 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page vi
vi CONTENTS
14 Queenstown & Environs 385 1 Wanaka: Gateway to Mount Suggested Itineraries ...... 400 Aspiring National Park ...... 385 Especially for Kids ...... 401 2 Mount Cook ...... 394 4 Te Anau ...... 424 3 Queenstown ...... 396 5 Milford Sound ...... 431 Fast Facts: Queenstown ...... 399
15 Dunedin, Southland & Stewart Island 434 1 Dunedin ...... 434 2 Invercargill ...... 457 Fast Facts: Dunedin ...... 439 Suggested Itineraries ...... 460 Suggested Itineraries ...... 439 3 Stewart Island ...... 465 A Train Trip to Taieri Gorge . . .448 Making a Date with a Kiwi . . . .470 Appendix A: New Zealand in Depth 473 1 The Natural Environment . . . . .473 4 Maori Language & Culture . . . .478 2 History 101 ...... 474 Maori for Beginners ...... 479 Dateline ...... 474 5 A Taste of New Zealand ...... 480 3 New Zealand Today ...... 478 6 Wine, Wine & More Wine . . . . .480 Appendix B: A Glossary of Useful Terms 482 1 Kiwi/Yankee Terms ...... 482 2 Menu Terms ...... 483 Index 485 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page vii
List of Maps
New Zealand at a Glance 18 Wellington 254 Greater Auckland 86 Marlborough, Nelson & Beyond Central Auckland 96 292 Devonport 99 Central Nelson 301 Northland 141 Christchurch 320 Waikato & Bay of Plenty 169 West Coast 363 Rotorua & Environs 181 Central Queenstown 397 Greater Rotorua 185 Te Anau & Fiordland 425 Lake Taupo Region 203 Dunedin 436 Gisborne & Hawkes Bay 219 Southland 459 Taranaki & the River Region 241 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page viii
An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s New Zealand, 3rd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Adventure Guide to Australia & New Zealand Frommer’s Australia Frommer’s Portable Australia’s Great Barrier Reef Frommer’s Southeast Asia Frommer’s South Pacific 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page ix
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions 02 542923 WN.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 1
What’s New in New Zealand
New Zealand has had a booming 2 the brand-new President Plaza Hotel years in tourism. Despite international Auckland, 1 Hobson St. (& 0800/ downturns in travel because of the 773-743 in NZ, or 09/356-1000), September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks ideally placed near Viaduct Harbour. and SARS, New Zealand has wel- There’s sumptuous new upmarket bed comed over two million visitors for and breakfast accommodation at Cot- the first time. There has been huge ter House, 4 St. Vincent Ave., growth in all tourism sectors, and the Remuera (& 09/529-5156); and mood looks set to continue. The air- Mollies, 6 Tweed St., St. Mary’s Bay lines, though, are still up in the air— (& 09/376-3489), is a stylish new at least in terms of who’s who. The boutique hotel close to trendy Pon- proposed merger between Air New sonby. Just across the water on Wai- Zealand and Australia’s Qantas is still heke Island, The Boatshed, Tawa and awaiting approval; Britain’s Virgin Huia streets (& 09/372-9619), has Blue has successfully negotiated Trans- beautiful luxury suites; and Long- Tasman flying rights; and United Air- house (& 09/308-9044), also on lines has withdrawn from New Waiheke, is New Zealand’s first resi- Zealand. Here’s what else is new in dential cooking school. New Zealand. On the adventure front, you can AUCKLAND The new multimil- now leap off Auckland’s Harbour lion-dollar Britomart Transport Bridge and survive to tell the tale. This is thanks to A.J. Hackett Bungy Exchange has finally opened, and & Aucklanders are looking ahead to a ( 0800/462-8649 in NZ, or 09/ more organized, more efficient city 377-6543). transport system—and hopefully less New restaurants and bars are too traffic congestion with all buses, numerous to list, but one worth trying is Chandelier, 152 Ponsonby Rd. trains, and ferry services converging & downtown. Subritzky (& 09/534- ( 09/360-9315), a completely over- 5663) launched a new 500-passenger the-top dining experience that draws an avant-garde crowd. Gault at ferry to Waiheke Island at the end of & 2003. It also takes 50 vehicles and George, 144 Parnell Rd. ( 09/358- makes the trip to Waiheke Island 2600), is another worth shelling out much easier. for. There was huge disappointment See chapter 4 for complete details. that New Zealand failed to retain the ROTORUA, TAUPO & TON- America’s Cup for a third time, but GARIRO NATIONAL PARK Auckland has continued to flourish Taupo seems to have suddenly woken regardless, with high occupancy rates, up. New developments are popping major revamps, and new construction. up everywhere, and existing tourism A welcome addition to moderately icons are brushing up their act. At priced inner city accommodations is press time, Taupo Hot Springs, 102 02 542923 WN.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 2
2 WHAT’S NEW
Taupo-Napier Highway (& 07/377- CHRISTCHURCH & CANTER- 6502), was constructing the country’s BURY The proposed NZ$6.4 mil- newest purpose-designed health spa, lion (US$3.5 million) Maori Cultural set to open sometime in 2004. There’s Village attraction, to be established by steamy new intrigue at Wairakei Ter- Rotorua’s Tamaki brothers, has been races, SH5 (& 07/378-0913), high- put on hold, although discussions are lighting geothermal wonders. And in continuing and at press time there was the accommodation stakes, Acacia hope that it would open sometime in Point Lodge, 11 Sylvia Place, Acacia 2004. Bay (& 07/378-9089), is a smart new There’s a swanky new HIP (Highly boutique experience. Further south, Individual Places) hotel at Off The there’s a massive new resort develop- Square, Worcester Street (& 0800/ ment in Kinloch Golf Resort (& 07/ 633-843), where you’ll find highly 918-3316). Designed by American individualized rooms for terrific golf legend Jack Nicklaus, it will pro- prices, right beside Cathedral Square vide upmarket accommodation, in the heart of the city. Further north, restaurants, marina, fitness center, Hanmer Springs Thermal Reserve, and, of course, a championship 18- Amuri Road (& 0800/442-663 in hole golf course. NZ, or 03/315-7511), has seen a 38% At Whakapapa in Tongariro increase in visitor numbers and is National Park, there has been NZ$8 planning yet another major extension million (US$4.4 million) spent at The to include new thermal pools and pic- Grand Chateau, Whakapapa Village nic areas. (& 0800/242-832), on a massive In Kaikoura, the Scenic Hotel chain refurbishment of the existing hotel, is opening Te Kaikoura, a new 70- plus the development of a new 40- room hotel in 2004. It will be the room wing and new atrium restaurant. town’s first hotel and a much needed See chapter 7 for complete details. addition. (Christchurch-based Scenic WELLINGTON The capital’s hotel Hotels are also opening new hotels in scene is as changeable as ever. The Blenheim and Dunedin in 2004.) Parkroyal has rebranded as Hotel Inter- See chapter 12 for complete details. Continental Wellington, Grey and QUEENSTOWN & ENVIRONS Featherston streets (& 0800/442-215), Additions to Queenstown accommo- and has undergone a multimillion-dol- dations include the upmarket star lar revamp. Novotel Capital, 133–137 Eichardt’s Private Hotel, The Mall The Terrace (& 0800/444-422 in NZ, (& 03/441-0450), where everything or 04/918-1900) is a new hotel in the is as luxurious and enveloping as you heart of the city. There is still talk of could hope for. Shotover Lodge, 61 The Hilton constructing a new hotel Atley Rd. (& 03/441-8037), is the on the reclaimed waterfront area, but new baby of Steve and Jeanette this has yet to gain official approval. Brough, former owners of Remark- You’ll find new Maori attractions at ables Lodge. Meanwhile, back at Pataka, Norrie and Parumoana Remarkables Lodge, 595 Kingston streets, Porirua (& 04/237-1511), a Rd. (& 03/442-2720), new owners showcase of contemporary Maori art; Simon Bolt and Heini Mueller have and Maori Treasures, 56–58 Guthrie swept a broom through and reopened St., Lower Hutt (& 04/939-9630), a after a major revamp. complex offering gallery, gift store, On the adventure front, Via Fer- cafe, and exclusive tour experiences. rata Queenstown (& 03/409-0696) See chapter 10 for complete details. 02 542923 WN.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 3
WHAT’S NEW 3
should appeal to adventure seekers junkie. Softies might prefer the gentle who like climbing in high rocky comforts of Yvalda Boat Cruises places; and Shotover Canyon Swing (& 03/442-3499), a new operation (& 03/442-9708; www.canyonswing. that puts the classic ketch used by Sir co.nz) is supposedly the world’s high- Winston Churchill in World War II to est giant swing—just a little some- a new use on lake Wakatipu. See chap- thing for the already bored adrenalin ter 14 for complete details. 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 4
1 The Best of New Zealand
Back in 1979, New Zealand cartoonist and satirist Tom Scott, writing in NZ Listener magazine, had this to say about New Zealand: “Terrible tragedy in the South Seas. Three million people trapped alive.” The big news in 2003 was that we hit the four million population mark, and more than half of that increase was due to immigration. Given that we have around 44 million sheep, one New Zealander still equates to a whole lot of fresh lamb. Look beyond the farm gate, though, and you’ll find we’ve caught up with the rest of the world. We may bob about at the bottom of the Southern Hemi- sphere, but it would be unfair to consider the country a backwater. New Zealand has notched up a record year in tourism, welcoming more than two million visitors a year for the first time, despite international upheavals like terrorist attacks and SARS. Visitors contributed more than $5 billion to the country’s economy, making tourism one of New Zealand’s biggest overseas income earners. And we’re better equipped for tourists. Efficient visitor centers abound, and accommodations range from budget to exclusive. You can shop 7 days a week, whoop it up at clubs and bars 24 hours a day, or savor a glass of internationally recognized New Zealand wine in an inexpensive cafe. You can get real coffee in as many variations as you can imagine, and New Zealand’s fresh, innovative cuisine will leave you breathless and begging for more. Even provincial New Zealand has pulled up its socks without losing its heart. Small-town pride is beaming, and farmers are turning their hands to boutique tour operations and gorgeous restored B&Bs to supplement farm incomes, changing the whole nature of many backwater rural districts. Yet you’ll still find, at its core, the very Kiwi hospitality that has made this country famous. You may have heard that New Zealanders are born wearing wet suits and car- rying paddles, such is their appetite for the outdoors and adventure. No part of the country is more than 128km (79 miles) from the sea, and a coastline spread with splendid beaches dishes up thousands of beautiful coastal walks and chances to surf and soak in the sun. New Zealand is also a winter magnet for international skiers and is the white- knuckle capital of the world. This is where you can push it to the limits, pit yourself against your fears and limitations, take risk by the throat, and go for it—leaping off bridges into surging river gorges attached to a giant rubber band, or taking a stab at luging, zorbing, sky diving, paragliding, kayaking, white- water rafting, and jet-boating. There’s no lack of invention when it comes to adrenaline-pumping activities in this country. But you don’t have to be an extreme athlete to enjoy New Zealand. There are just as many ways to be laid-back and indulgent—tour wineries that have stam- peded their way to the top of world ratings in record time; take in the wealth of Polynesian and Maori culture that forms the backbone of an increasingly multi- cultural society; or check out the strong historical and architectural reminders of a colonial past. There are lush gardens, art galleries, museums, and plenty of 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 5
THE BEST BEACHES 5
one-off reminders that New Zealand up rivers, and eating and drinking in is like no other place. far too many restaurants, I am more I was born in New Zealand and convinced than ever that New despite frequent trips overseas, I can’t Zealand is one of the quirkiest, shake off the inherent sense of belong- quaintest, craziest places on earth. It is ing here. This book presents “my” one of the most favored destinations New Zealand. After many months of the new millennium, and before traveling thousands of miles, testing you’ve even left here, you’ll want to mattresses, comparing prices, leaping come back. Dip into these pages, and off clifftops (well, almost), speeding you’ll see why.
1 The Best Beaches • Waiheke Island’s Onetangi Bay: See “The Coromandel Peninsula” Stand on the bay’s wide stretch of in chapter 5. golden sand, and you can see for • Mount Maunganui’s Ocean miles. On a clear day, throw your- Beach: Surf, sand, and sun— self down into the sand and gaze at some people never want more the steep pinnacles of Great Barrier than that. Throw on a bit of sun- Island and Little Barrier, off in the tan lotion, a pair of sunglasses, hazy distance. There might even be and a skimpy swimsuit, and you’ll a few glimpses of the Coromandel be able to mix it with the best of in between deliciously warm the bronzed bodies that make an swims. See “A Side Trip to Waiheke annual pilgrimage to this peren- Island” in chapter 4. nial beach and surf favorite. See • Karikari Peninsula’s Beaches: “Tauranga & Bay of Plenty” in This is the Far North at its sub- chapter 6. tropical best—endless sweeps of • Kaiteriteri Beach: Half of Can- sparkling white sand lapped by terbury makes a beeline for these crystal-clear, azure-blue waters. blissful shores every summer. It’s And from Tokerau Beach to not expansive—in fact it’s quite Rangiputa to Matai Bay, you small, but perfectly formed could well have miles of it to your- nonetheless, and there’s a busy self for beachcombing, sun- vacation atmosphere with packed bathing, and swimming (with campgrounds and holiday houses. care). See “Bay of Islands & the And with Nelson’s endless hours Far North” in chapter 5. of sunshine, who could complain • Coopers Beach: Partly shaded by about size? See “Nelson, Rich- a bank of red-emblazoned mond & Motueka” in chapter 11. pohutukawa trees, how could you • Abel Tasman National Park’s not be content to stretch out here? Beaches: Bush-wrapped and Exercise? A walk to the water locked between rocky headlands, should do it! See “Bay of Islands these idyllic golden patches from & the Far North” in chapter 5. Marahau north to Totaranui are • Hot Water Beach: Don’t ask me accessible by sea only. That’s what why, or how, but if you get here 2 makes them so special. Gliding hours before or after low tide, you through the turquoise waters in can hollow out a spot on the your sea kayak, with curious seals beach for yourself, then wait for to keep you company, you can natural hot water to seep up take your pick of isolated havens. through the sand. A natural spa See “Abel Tasman National Park experience without paying a cent! & Golden Bay” in chapter 11. 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 6
6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND
2 The Best Active Vacations • Scuba Diving in the Poor deserted beaches; and explore Knights: Jacques Yves Cousteau rocky headlands. See “Abel Tas- rated this among the best diving man National Park & Golden spots in the world. This unique Bay” in chapter 11. marine reserve has the best of • Walking the Glaciers: Dig out tropical currents sweeping in to those snow boots and walking make it warm and inviting for a poles, add a dash of nerve and wide variety of tropical species daring, and take the walk of a life- that aren’t found anywhere else in time down Fox or Franz Josef New Zealand’s waters. See “Into Glaciers in the deep south. And the Deep Blue Sea” on p. 155. don’t forget your camera so you • Blackwater Rafting in the Wait- can bring home those unforget- omo Glowworm Caves: Daredev- table views into the snow caves. ils can now go underground to See “Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers” leap off waterfalls; slink through in chapter 13. dark, damp, underground water- • Getting Wild in Queenstown: ways; abseil off “Lost World” rock This is New Zealand’s adrenaline faces; and do other things in the capital, where you get more than dark. See “Hamilton & the one chance to show how crazy you Waikato” in chapter 6. really are. There are more dare- • Trout Fishing in Taupo: They say devil stunts per square inch here the fish in Lake Taupo are so big than anywhere else in the country. that when you catch one, the lake An international skiing mecca in level drops. The dozens of other winter, it readily transforms itself rivers (especially world-renowned into summer madness as well. See Tongariro) and streams in the “Queenstown” in chapter 14. region also have rich pickings for • Walking the Fiordland Tracks: If the fisherman. See “Taupo” in you fancy yourself as a multi-day chapter 7. tramper, there’s plenty to keep you • Sea Kayaking in Abel Tasman out of mischief in Fiordland. This National Park: It takes a lot to is where you get some of the best beat this balmy little paddle into walks in the world—the Milford, the best-preserved and most beau- the Hollyford, the Kepler, and the tiful coastline of New Zealand. Routeburn tracks. See “Tramp- Keep company with nosy seal pups ing” in chapter 3 and “Te Anau” and dolphins; call into pristine, in chapter 14.
3 The Best of Natural New Zealand • Ninety Mile Beach and Cape • Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland: Reinga: From the spiritual tip of The earth’s molten core hints at its the North Island where, Maori artistic potential in a veritable say, the souls of the dead depart, rainbow of color and steamy chaos to mountainous sand dunes, manifested in geysers, mud pools, quicksand, and the broad flat hot bubbling lakes, steamy ter- stretch of Ninety Mile Beach, this races, and more. A photographer’s is a must-see area filled with the paradise, but tread carefully. See unexpected. See “Bay of Islands & “Bubble, Bubble, Toil & Trouble: the Far North” in chapter 5. The Geothermal Attractions” on p. 190. 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 7
THE BEST TRAMPS 7
• Tongariro National Park: Three superlatives. It is the ultimate major volcanoes dominate a must-see. See “Te Anau” in chap- rugged central plateau landscape: ter 14. Ruapehu, Tongariro, and Ngau- • The Catlins Coast: This is wild, ruhoe. An indomitable threesome, natural New Zealand at its they’re rife with Maori legend and unspoiled best. From unique fossil rich in a few modern stories as forests to all manner of seabirds well. Great for skiers, trampers, and mammals, native bush, water- and anyone wanting a physical falls, wild beaches, unforgettable challenge. See “Tongariro tangles of driftwood, and a frus- National Park” in chapter 7. tratingly changeable climate—the • Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers: area takes a lot of beating, but the This is one of the very few places resulting dramatic impact is on earth where you’ll find full- unforgettable. See “Dunedin” in fledged glaciers this close to the chapter 15. ocean. In a slow, ever-onward • Ulva Island: Tucked into Stewart creep, they make their way from Island’s Paterson Inlet, tiny Ulva the heights of the Southern Alps Island will leave you speechless down into untouched rainforest. with its incredible native bird life. See “Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers” It’s wall-to-wall feathers here— in chapter 13. and what’s more, they’re not afraid • Fiordland: Come here on a wet of humans. Don’t go without your day (and that’s easy because this camera; you’ll need evidence once place gets the most rainfall in New you start telling friends back Zealand), and you’ll think you’ve home about it! See “Stewart stepped into the living set of Lord Island” in chapter 15. of the Rings. This place defies all
4 The Best Tramps For complete details about tramping rocky headlands, and natural in New Zealand, see “Tramping” in unspoiled bush. See “Abel Tasman chapter 3. National Park & Golden Bay” in • Tongariro Crossing: Often chapter 11. described as one of the best 1-day • The Heaphy Track: No softie- walks in New Zealand, this high- guided options here: You go it altitude hike across volcanic ter- alone for 4 to 6 days from the rain will give you cold mountain junction of the Brown and Aorora springs, lava flows, an active rivers, across tussock-covered flats crater, emerald-colored crater to the wild seas of Karamea on the lakes, and unforgettable views. Be West Coast. See “Westport & fit and enthusiastic. See “Ton- Karamea” in chapter 13. gariro National Park” in 7. • The Milford Track: The mother • The Abel Tasman Coastal Track: of them all, the Milford is one of This is another easy 3- to 5-day the world’s best and most loved walk where the guided option multi-day tramps. Stretching gives you the choice of ditching through the best of Fiordland, this those hefty packs. From start to 54km (33-mile) trail follows the finish, 51km (32 miles) later, it Clinton and Arthur valleys and winds in and out of gorgeous crosses McKinnon Pass with views sheltered coves, golden beaches, you’ll never forget. See “Te Anau” in chapter 14. 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 8
8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND
• The Routeburn Track: Like the who think they can face 10 to 12 Milford and the Hollyford before days walking 125km (78 miles) it, this track makes its way into through bird-filled native bush, virgin rainforest and the sort of big beaches, and long stretches wild fairyland scenery where you’d knee-deep in mud. I’m told the expect to see elves and gnomes rewards are plenty. See “Stewart prancing around. See “Te Anau” Island” in chapter 15. in chapter 14. • The North West Circuit: This is a real test for experienced trampers
5 The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences • Visit the World’s Biggest Polyne- herding sheep on horseback, wild sian Market: Why go all around horses, and roaming stock (drive the Pacific Islands when you can get carefully)—and it’s the first place the best of it in the comfort of an in the world to see the morning Otara parking lot? Go hungry and sun. See “Gisborne & the East feast on island goodies, smell the Cape” in chapter 8. smells, and buy beautiful tapa cloth • Do the Eastern Bays Scenic Mail and top-notch Polynesian weaving. Run: Get a feel for real rural New See “The Markets” in chapter 4. Zealand as you whizz around • Swim with Sharks: You’ve got to lonely, unpaved roads delivering be keen, I admit, but this can be mail to far-flung farming families. done in perfect safety. Along with Hear all the latest community those charming, perfectly harmless news firsthand and see some stun- tropical fish in the Poor Knights ning landscapes in the bargain. Maritime Reserve, you can come See “On the Run” on p. 355. face to face with Jaws’s South Seas • Whale-Watch in Kaikoura: cousins in a tough metal cage. Gis- When a mighty sperm whale flaps borne offers a similar knuckle-bit- its tail at you, you won’t forget it ing thrill. See “Into the Deep Blue in a hurry. These big sea monsters Sea” on p. 155 and “Gisborne & come to this particular stretch of the East Cape” in chapter 8. water for a marine habitat rich in • Visit a Maori Marae: Experience their kind of plankton. Don’t be the hongi (the formal nose-to-nose surprised to see dolphins aplenty, Maori greeting), see deeply moving too. See “Marine Experiences in song and dance performances, and Kaikoura” on p. 359. eat from a traditional underground • Eat Bugs and Beetles at the Wild hangi (oven). Do this in Rotorua as Foods Festival: Prime yourself! part of an organized tour experi- You’ll need culinary fortitude for ence, or seek permission to visit one this mind-boggling event—you of the dozens of East Cape marae could be served up anything from (village common). See “Rotorua” in wriggling grubs to the unmention- chapter 7 and “Gisborne & the able body parts of a number of East Cape” in chapter 8. wild and not-so-wild animals. The • Take the East Cape Road: Journey West Coast at its most rugged best. back in time as you travel the last See “Hokitika: Greenstone, Glow- remote outreaches of the Pacific worms & Gold” in chapter 13. Coast Highway. It’s a feast of living • Drive into Skippers Canyon: Maori culture, stunning coast- Relive the pioneer days as you line, empty beaches, stockmen make your way into one of the 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 9
THE BEST VIEWS 9
hottest old gold-mining areas via a on this little southern adventure. treacherous road guaranteed to It’s the only place in the country take your mind off any other trou- where you can creep about lonely bles you thought you had! Take a beaches at night with flashlights bungy jump while you’re here—if and stealth and not get arrested! you dare. One thing’s for sure—it At the same time, you’ll be one of couldn’t be any worse than the the lucky few who get to see a wild road. See “Queenstown” in chap- kiwi foraging for its supper among ter 14. the seaweed. See “Making a Date • Stalk Kiwis at Night: And I mean with a Kiwi” on p. 470. the birds! Get ready for surprises
6 The Best Views • Sky Tower: The paramount city shopping streets, you’ll be view in not only New Zealand, rewarded with postcard-perfect but also the entire Southern vistas of glass-faced high-rises sil- Hemisphere. Once you get out of houetted against the harbor. Step that glass-faced lift 328m (over off the cute red cable car into the 1,000 ft.) above the city, you’ll verdant acres of the Botanical know just what I mean. Fabulous Gardens and look seaward. No 360-degree views of Auckland matter what the weather, the view unfold below, and you can test is always memorable. See p. 274. your courage by walking over glass • Queenstown’s Skyline Gondola: floors! See p. 115. It’s everybody’s aim to get high in • Hicks Bay: Stop at the high point Queenstown one way or another. above Hicks Bay before you Make yours by way of a smooth descend into Te Araroa to see New gondola ride to the top of Bob’s Zealand’s largest pohutukawa tree Peak. Step out into the cool, crisp, and the East Cape Lighthouse. exceedingly fresh air with New Resting awhile, high up between Zealand’s playground spread out the two bays, see if you can imag- at your feet. The Remarkables will ine Captain Cook’s expression keep the view in check, and Lake when he first sighted the area, and Wakatipu will be a big blue basin his relief to be leaving again after a below. See “Queenstown” in chap- tragic Maori massacre in which ter 14. one European was killed and eaten • Nugget Point: You may not have on his wedding night. See “Gis- seen another human being for borne & the East Cape” in chap- hours by the time you make your ter 8. way to the lookout above Nugget • Havelock North’s Te Mata Peak: Point. And once you’ve experi- A big “sleeping giant” of a hill, enced the blissful solitude of 393m (1,310-ft.) Te Mata affords standing on this wild, windswept big views of endless green and Catlins promontory, you probably Brown undulations, reaching all won’t care if you don’t see anyone the way to the coast. Havelock for several more. Thick, swirling North, Hastings, and Napier all masses of kelp, seals, penguins, blend together below. See and seabirds galore—they’re all “Hawkes Bay” in chapter 8. here by the hundreds. See • Wellington’s Kelburn Cable Car: “Dunedin” in chapter 15. Not so far above the capital’s busy 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 10
10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND
7 The Best Drives • Auckland City to Mission Bay: • Queen Charlotte Sounds: Take This is the stuff of a weekend the scenic loop from Picton to the afternoon spin to see how the little fishing village of Havelock other half lives. Best done in a Fer- and back to Picton on the main rari, a BMW, an Audi, or an highway. Stop and admire the equally cool classic if you want to bush-clad sounds and the boats, leave a lasting impression. Tight and indulge in fresh green-lipped shorts and in-line skates do the mussels grown in these very waters trick just as well if you want a at the Mussel Boys Restaurant, in cheaper set of wheels. Do the cafe Havelock. It’s a narrow winding crawl; join the walkers, the run- road around the Sounds, so take it ners, and the dog strollers; or just quietly. See “Picton & Blenheim” drool over million-dollar real in chapter 11. estate. See “Orientation” in chap- • Greymouth to Westport: Pretty, ter 4. pretty, pretty! Nikau palms, • Rotorua’s Blue and Green Lakes: native bush, tree ferns, jagged From the stately redwood forest rocks, roaring surf, and the big on the edge of town, all the way blue Tasman Sea combine to past the Blue and Green Lakes to make this a lovely half-day out- the Buried Village and Lake ing. Be sure to stop at the famous Tarawera and back again, you’ll Punakaiki Pancake Rocks, where squeal with delight at a dozen dif- blowholes have a spectacular hissy ferent things. There are lots of pic- fit as the ocean roars into, under, nic spots on the way, but the and around rocky caverns on the Landing Café at Lake Tarawera is coast. See “Westport & Karamea” a good bet if you forget the ham- in chapter 13. per. See “Rotorua” in chapter 7. • The Famous Milford Road: Even • The Capital to Mellow Martin- the Wanaka-Haast road can’t borough: Once you’ve left the match the splendor of this one. It’s motorways behind, you’ll be up been called one of the best drives and over the winding Rimutaka in the world, and no amount of Hill Road in little more than 40 raving can do it justice. You really minutes. Then it’s downhill all the just have to do it. Virgin rainfor- way to Martinborough’s enchant- est, mirrorlike lakes, astounding ing pocket of prize-winning winer- waterfalls (especially during rain), ies. Surrender to hedonism and beech forest, mountains of moss, squander time in idyllic vineyard bright orange lichens, and sheer settings. Make the only exercise mountain faces thousands of feet you do raising your glass, or at high contribute to the overall pic- most a wee stroll through pretty lit- ture—not to mention the slightly tle Martinborough Village, where daunting Homer Tunnel. See cute shops await. See “A Side Trip “Milford Sound” in chapter 14. to Wairarapa” in chapter 10.
8 The Best Gardens • Hamilton Gardens: Stretched lovely place to wander and picnic. along the banks of the Waikato Development began around 30 River, this blissful, relatively new years ago; there’s now a well- 58-hectare (143-acre) reserve is a established Asian garden, English 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 11
THE BEST MUSEUMS 11
garden, herb and scented gardens, when people think of England. and lavish stands of trees. See See p. 339. “Hamilton & the Waikato” in • Mona Vale: This little beauty is chapter 6. often overlooked in favor of the • Eastwoodhill Arboretum: One city’s Botanical Gardens, but it has of the most magical places in the an intimate charm all its own. country, hardly a garden by nor- Spreading out around a stately Vic- mal standards, this astounding torian home, these public gardens collection—the best in New have myriad lovely features, includ- Zealand—is one man’s life’s work ing iris collections along stream and presents over 3,500 species banks, fountains, hostas by the often studied by international sci- yard, and that old favorite, the rose, entists. Go in autumn for unfor- which does so well in Canterbury. gettable color displays—and bring See “Exploring Christchurch” in a camera. See “Gisborne & the chapter 12. East Cape” in chapter 8. • Ohinetahi: If you’re a garden fan, • Pukeiti Rhododendron Trust: this is a must. Formal, architec- Here you get a world-class collec- tural, and stately are all words that tion of rhododendrons, viraya, instantly spring to mind. Defi- and azaleas set in a centuries-old nitely English-inspired and mod- forest near Mount Egmont—our eled after the best of England’s little Mount Fuji. The gardens stately gardens, with quirky New spread over many acres in a lovely Zealand modifications. See rural setting 30 minutes from “Exploring Christchurch” in New Plymouth. See “New Ply- chapter 12. mouth: Gateway to Egmont • Taunton Gardens: Another Can- National Park” in chapter 9. terbury treat near Ohinetahi. This • Christchurch’s Botanic Gardens: one is the result of Barry Sligh’s Regardless of the season, this cen- ceaseless passion for plants, in par- tral-city acreage has plenty to ticular hostas and rhododendrons. offer, but it’s quintessentially He collects, he breeds, he grows, Christchurch when the daffodils he tends, he rakes, he weeds, and and bluebells bloom under the he still has time to talk gardening. huge oak trees along the Avon You’ll love the lush valley he has River and avenues of weeping developed. See “Exploring cherries burst into color. This is Christchurch” in chapter 12.
9 The Best Museums • Auckland Museum: After a very their fingers into just about any- significant internal revamp, this thing. See p. 115. museum is everything you’d want • The New Zealand National Mar- in a city’s storehouse of treasures: itime Museum: At the pinnacle of fun, interactive, attractive, New Zealand’s boating history— informative, and filled with inter- with the America’s Cup Challenge esting collections. Its Maori and right in our backyard—the Mar- Polynesian section, the biggest in itime Museum is booming. Look the world, sends shivers down for KZ1 outside, and inside dis- your spine; if you’ve got kids, let cover 1,000 years of the country’s them loose in the Discovery Cen- maritime history. See sail-makers, tre, where they can legally stick boat-builders, and wood-turners at 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 12
12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND
work and take a cruise on one of • Canterbury Museum and the the vessels. See p. 118. International Antarctic Centre: • Te Papa Tongarewa—The Although these two museums are Museum of New Zealand: One of completely separate entities the largest national museums in located miles apart, together they the world, this giant new edifice present a terrific overview of life on Wellington’s waterfront is said and history in Antarctica. to be 5 years ahead of anything else Nowhere else in the world will like it. Truly bicultural, it’s a magi- you find this much gathered cal place where art and artifacts information about the great icy meet technological brilliance, cre- continent. There’s everything ating riveting displays and interac- from wildlife displays to human tive playthings for all ages. You’ll exploration accounts and a real ice find everything from a whale chamber so you can get the feel of skeleton and a working Maori life in subzero temperatures. See marae to art collections and vir- p. 338 and p. 339. tual-reality diversions. See p. 273.
10 The Best Maori Experiences • Auckland Museum: This is the It presents Maori life as it used to perfect place for an early lesson in be pre-European settlement. You’ll things Maori. The recently tour the village with a Maori elder, revamped museum has the largest learn the ancient myths, watch a collection of Maori artifacts in the traditional performance, and eat world. Large war canoes, meeting- from a traditional hangi. See houses, greenstone weapons, and “Rotorua” in chapter 7. feather cloaks are here. On top of • Royal Lakeside Novotel: Here that, the Manaia Maori Perfor- you’ll find the best Maori hangi mance Group puts on a stunning and performance in Rotorua. It show three times a day. See p. 115. includes a steam-cooked hangi, • Whakarewarewa Thermal poi dance, the haka, traditional Reserve & New Zealand Maori songs and games, and an excellent Arts & Crafts Institute: Maori audiovisual presentation spanning guides will lead you through the 150 years of Rotorua’s history. See thermal reserve, explaining the “Rotorua” in chapter 7. significance of the area to the • East Cape: This is a remote Maori people. There’s also a live enclave of Maori culture—one of song-and-dance performance, a the last places in New Zealand tour of a replica Maori village, and where the Maori language is part the chance to watch working of everyday life. You’ll find more weavers and carvers in the Arts & than 100 marae scattered along Crafts Institute, which was set up the length of the East Cape Road, in 1963 to foster traditional craft and if you ask permission, in most skills. See p. 186. cases you’ll be allowed to enter. • Tamaki Maori Village: This There are numerous Maori settle- re-created ancient Maori village ments and highly decorative was the New Zealand Tourism Maori churches. See “Gisborne & Awards Supreme winner in 1998. the East Cape” in chapter 8. 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 13
THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS 13
11 The Best B&Bs • The Great Ponsonby Bed & unashamedly upmarket home Breakfast (Auckland; & 0800/ brings a slice of Mexico to the Bay 766-792 in NZ, or 09/376-5989): of Plenty. Ross and Paula Sally James and Gerry Hill will give Greenville have applied their you one of the warmest welcomes innate sense of style to gorgeous you’ve encountered anywhere— rooms overlooking a pool and and all this in a great-value, essen- yucca-filled gardens. See p. 178. tially Pacific environment filled • 39 Russell (Nelson; & 03/548- with romance and color. Their mat- 4655): Well-known New Zealand tention to detail is tops. See p. 102. artist Jane Evans has once again • Cotter House (Auckland; & 09/ shown that she’s a colorist 529-5156): Steep yourself in his- supreme. The environment she tory, style, and elegance in this has created in this superb self-con- remarkable old home owned by tained cottage is to die for. Dare to interior designer Gloria Poupard- unpack your bags, and you may Walbridge, who has created a lux- never leave. See p. 308. ury stay in Auckland’s fifth oldest • The Worcester of Christchurch historic home. It is a rare example (Christchurch; & 0800/365-015 of British Regency architecture in in NZ, or 03/365-0936): You New Zealand, and rooms envelop won’t better this for a central-city you in unequalled comforts. location topped with smiles and Everything is of the finest quality. good taste. Maree Ritchie and See p. 105. Tony Taylor’s elegant Victorian • Glenora Estate (Waiheke Island; home is straight across the street & 09/372-5082): Derek and from the cultural hub of Sally Holland have replicated a Christchurch; it also boasts its late-17th-century English Devon own art gallery and a wealth of cottage that will make your gorgeous antiques. See p. 329. mouth water. Set in 9 private acres • Hartford House (Christchurch; of bush, it is luxury-plus. Voted by & 03/355-5562): Architectural Travel & Leisure as one of the best history and stunning interiors places in the world to marry, it come together in Frank and Shirley will win you over in a second. See Diver’s luxurious Merivale home. p. 136. Peaceful, perfect, secluded, and just • Puerta del Sol Golfing Retreat a step from loads of restaurants and (Mount Maunganui; & 07/575- the city’s most prestigious shopping 8665): Overlooking Mount area, it’s a choice you won’t regret. Maunganui Golf Club, this See p. 331.
12 The Best Luxury Accommodations • Hilton Auckland (Auckland; favor a mix of dynamic architec- & 0800/448-002 in NZ, or ture and world-recognized atten- 09/978-2000): Hilton-style pam- tion to service and detail, it’s the pering means succumbing to a perfect place for you. See p. 98. luxurious assault on the senses. • Florence Court (Auckland; & 09/ This classy, high-gloss environ- 623-9333): Nestled into the well- ment is smack in the center of mannered hillsides of Epsom, this America’s Cup action, and if you is a secluded retreat for visiting 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 14
14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND
heads of state, prime ministers, Sally Hunt found their slice of celebrities, and the like, who paradise in an archetypal New would rather the rest of us didn’t Zealand setting—rolling green know they were about. Lavish hills, big clear skies, balmy climate, rooms in a magnificent example endless peace and quiet. Now of Edwardian architecture bulge they’re sharing the sublimely luxu- with Louis XV antiques and every rious lodge they have created here. material comfort. See p. 103. The attention to detail surpasses • Eagles Nest (Russell; & 09/403- almost everything else in New 8333): Combine the very best of Zealand. Don’t miss it. See p. 310. international taste with the magic • Eichardt’s Private Hotel (Queen- of Northland’s subtropical envi- stown; & 03/441-0450): This ronment and a rich vein of natural new Small Luxury Hotels of the energy, and you get a luxury World member has received glow- retreat quite unlike any other in ing accolades in Andrew Harper’s New Zealand. Daniel and Sandie Hideaway Report, and it’s becoming Biskind have created a world-class the hotel of choice for discerning, retreat worthy of anyone’s pro- upscale travelers. In a remodeled longed attention. See p. 149. historic building in central Queen- • Huka Lodge (Taupo; & 07/378- stown, it oozes first-class style and 5791): Exclusivity reigns supreme understated glamour. See p. 412. at this Small Luxury Hotels of the • Blanket Bay (Queenstown; & 03/ World member. International 442-9442): If you want luxury on awards bounce off the walls, and a grand scale in a majestic setting guests invariably comment on to match, then look no further rooms fit for kings. It has a than Blanket Bay. These gorgeous supreme location beside the stone buildings marry so com- Waikato River just above the pletely with the awesome land- Huka Falls and a reputation for scape, it seems as if they were quality and service that seems always here. Inside, you’ll find an impossible to shake. See p. 208. outstanding level of service and • Paratiho Farms (Motueka; & 03/ comfort. What more could you 528-2100): Americans Robert and want? See p. 419.
13 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations • The Saltings (Warkworth; & 09/ • Novotel Tainui (Hamilton; 425-9670): Terry and Maureen & 0800/450-050 in NZ, or 07/ Baines will give you a level of 838-1366): Sometimes you just warmth and welcome that is as feel like hotel comforts, and the natural as the light of day—some Novotel must be applauded for its people are just meant to be hosts. top-quality finishing touches and Their whole establishment is its realistic room rates. Color and imbued with creativity, and rooms fine art abound, and staff mem- are satisfaction guaranteed. Factor bers are eager to please. Make sure in a divine climate and complete you dine in the fabulous riverside tranquillity and you have the stuff restaurant. See p. 172. of special moments. See • Ruby House (Wellington; & 04/ “Whangarei & Beyond” in chap- 934-7930): When French coun- ter 5. try style meets Kiwi ingenuity, 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 15
THE BEST RESTAURANTS 15
you’re guaranteed an impact. Eliz- incredibly well-priced rooms in an abeth Barbalich was made for the elegant historic home just across B&B business, and her delightful the street from Christchurch’s cul- three-level guesthouse is a winner tural precinct are hard to beat for on all counts. You’ll get heaps of value. You’ll be hard-pressed to privacy, and the smiling hostess is find a better situation with this never far afield. See p. 265. degree of convenience and com- • A Little Manor (Nelson; & 03/ fort. See p. 330. 545-1411): When you see this lit- • Villa Polenza Boutique Lodge tle gem, you’ll think of dollhouses, (Hokitika; & 0800/241-801 in but rest assured—it’s much bigger NZ, or 03/755-7801): Russell and than its 4.5m (15-ft.) width would Trina Diedrichs have taken creativ- suggest. It’s a storybook delight, ity to new heights on the quirky and Angela Higgins will make sure West Coast. Their standout prop- your stay is memorable, right erty is perched high on a hill over- down to the breakfast hamper looking the town and ocean, and delivered to the door. See p. 308. you’ll enjoy lavish contemporary • Orari Bed & Breakfast (Christ- comforts here that will leave a last- church; & 03/365-6569): Eight ing impression. See p. 376.
14 The Best Restaurants • White (Auckland; & 09/978- undoubtedly much more life- 2000): Named for its stunning enhancing. Vinnies’s reputation minimal all-white interior, White for being one of Auckland’s top is the handiwork of celebrated three never seems to shake. See consulting chef Luke Mangan, p. 110. who owns the award-winning • Icon Restaurant (Wellington; restaurant Salt in Sydney. Its best & 04/801-5300): France meets feature is The Table, a big infor- Asia and New Zealand in this mal table for diners who like the chic, culturally fused culinary idea of mixing with others over an masterpiece. Executive chef Peter outstanding meal. See “Where to Thornley has implanted his dis- Dine” in chapter 4. tinctive style firmly into a menu • Otto’s (Auckland; & 09/300- that celebrates fine flavors master- 9595): This is posh-plush, profes- fully woven together. See p. 266. sionalism-plus. Located in the • Roxburgh Bistro (Wellington; delicious Ascott Metropolis Hotel, & 04/385-7577): There are no Otto’s emphasizes the “fine” in prizes for the down-at-the-heels fine dining and has staff that exterior, but there’s edible ecstasy delivers the goods in terms of serv- within. Nor are there pretensions ice and style. Just make sure or swish interiors—just fine food you’ve swallowed your last mouth- that consistently stands out above ful before you catch your breath at the crowd for its international the bill. See “Where to Dine” in flair. See p. 271. chapter 4. • Rotherams (Christchurch; & 03/ • Vinnies Restaurant (Auckland; 341-5142): Swiss-born chef Mar- & 09/376-5597): Urban sophis- tin Weiss has mastered the art of ticates flock here like lemmings stunning his hungry patrons. In to a clifftop, although the an interior that’s all about Pacific Rim culinary experience is romance and special occasions, he 03 542923 Ch01.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 16
16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND
presents meals that excel in both carpet underfoot and many reasons presentation and taste. Not to be to keep returning—chief among missed—likewise the extensive them the truly outstanding seafood wine list. See p. 336. meals! This is one place famous for • Boardwalk Seafood Restaurant its reliability and consistency—and & Bar (Queenstown; & 03/442- it has years of success to back up its 5630): I’ve criticized the decor here claims. See p. 420. more than once, but there’s new
15 The Best Shopping • Auckland: The whole city is a Habitat. See “Nelson, Richmond treasure trove of shops. Try the & Motueka” in chapter 11. chic fashion and design shops of • Christchurch: The Arts Centre High Street; international designer Galleria is home to about 40 crafts duty-free at DFS Galleria Custom- stores selling a wide range of house; upmarket boutiques in Par- goods, from sheepskin products nell; antiques on Manukau Road; and leather to wood-turned bowls mainstream fashion in Newmar- and ceramics. More turn up for ket; big mall shopping at St. Luke’s the weekend Arts Centre Market. Shopping Centre; and fabulous Also in Christchurch, check out specialty shops on K’Road and High Street for an eclectic mix of Ponsonby Road. See “Shopping” antiques, secondhand stores, cafes, in chapter 4. and new and old clothing bou- • Rotorua: A rich vein of New tiques; Cashel Mall for fashion and Zealand souvenirs runs right design stores; Victoria Street for a through the whole city, but for the whole host of new boutique stores; best Maori arts and crafts, look to and Merivale Mall for upmarket Tamaki Maori Village. See fashion and specialty shops. See “Rotorua” in chapter 7. “Shopping” in chapter 12. • Wellington: The Old Bank Build- • Hokitika and Greymouth: Jade/ ing on Lambton Quay has only greenstone/pounamu and gold are added to the electric atmosphere found in abundance in these two of this capital shopping area. West Coast towns. Stores special- Wander the length of the Quay izing in both are found side by for fashion, books, shoes, and side in both Hokitika and Grey- more; move up through Willis mouth. See “Greymouth & Lake Street for more of the same, and Brunner” and “Hokitika: Green- into Cuba Mall for edgy little stone, Glowworms & Gold” in design stores and off-the-wall chapter 13. retail surprises. Check out • Queenstown: This is the home of Tinakori Road for a handsome expensive shopping. You’ll find cluster of boutiques. See “Shop- that most things have big price ping” in chapter 10. tags, but the quality is invariably • Nelson: Long recognized as the tops. There are leading New best region for leisure crafts shop- Zealand and international cloth- ping, greater Nelson is dotted ing labels, sheepskin products, with hundreds of pottery studios. souvenirs, leather, original arts Find international quality art glass and crafts, and masses of jewelry. at Höglund Art Glass Studio and See “Queenstown” in chapter 14. a mixed complex of crafts at Craft 04 542923 Ch02.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 17
2 Planning Your Trip to New Zealand
With so much to see and do, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed and unsure about where to start your New Zealand holiday. I’m here to help—in the pages that follow, you’ll find a comprehensive appraisal of each of the regions, designed to help you isolate areas of interest. Hot on the tail of that, you’ll find all the nitty- gritty for organizing your big South Seas excursion.
1 The Regions in Brief THE NORTH ISLAND time. However, each warrants at least a AUCKLAND Far too often couple of days’ exploration; if you overlooked as little more than a land- have to choose between the two, I’d ing port, Auckland has first-rate definitely swing up to the far north. attractions, quality accommodations, Northland is served by a far better and diverse leisure opportunities. It is infrastructure in terms of transporta- without doubt the most cosmopolitan tion, hotels, and restaurants, and its of the cities, and its balmy climate has beach attractions (on the east coast) a special appeal. Waitemata Harbour are too numerous to itemize. That and Hauraki Gulf offer some of the said, you’ll find far more tourists here, world’s finest sailing, boating, and too, at least in the Bay of Islands area. fishing, and in the aftermath of the Head north, though, and a whole 2002–03 America’s Cup yachting world of unpopulated beaches awaits. challenge, many quality hotels, bars, Fishing, diving, boating, and camping and restaurants are thriving. Cultural are all big draws. The area’s rich Maori offerings abound in museums, gal- culture is also an excellent introduc- leries, and performing-arts centers; tion to New Zealand’s history. and shopping is the most diverse in The Coromandel Peninsula is a the country. There are more than 900 slightly more rugged version of North- restaurants and a wild nightlife scene, land. It has a craggier coastline, a more and if you’re into a beach lifestyle, remote landscape, and sections with there are numerous choices within very poor roads. Accommodations are easy reach. You may think it’s just middling to say the least (with a few another big city, but Auckland has a exceptions). Still, there’s color and Polynesian backbone that makes it character here, and it’s long been a quite unique. If you’re touring only favorite with New Zealand campers the North Island, Auckland is a per- and beach bunnies—especially the fect base. eastern side of the peninsula, where NORTHLAND & CORO- you’ll find some top surf beaches. MANDEL Both are within WAIKATO & BAY OF easy reach of Auckland and can be PLENTY I spent my childhood tackled as a day trip if you’re short on in the Waikato, but I find little to 04 542923 Ch02.qxd 1/26/04 10:15 AM Page 18
18 CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO NEW ZEALAND New Zealand at a Glance
Cape Reinga North Cape NORTH PACIFIC 1 Mangonui ISLAND OCEAN Kaitaia 10 Kerikeri Bay of Islands Poor Knight’s Island 12 Whangarei 14 1 Dargaville Great Barrier Island Warkworth Coromandel Peninsula Kaiparu 16 Hauraki Gulf Harbour Orewa Whitianga 25 Coromandel Auckland Forest Park Thames Kaimaimamaki Hicks Bay 1 Forest Park Bay of 35 Ngaruawahia East Tauranga Plenty Cape Hamilton Whakatane Rotorua Opotiki Ruatoria Lake . Te Urewera Tasman 30 Rotorua TS Waitomo M National Park Whirinaki U A Forest Park R Sea IA 3 Pureora Taupo U 36 Gisborne Forest Park H Lake Taupo Wairoa
43 Turangi K
New Plymouth Tongariro National Park A I M Kaweka Forest Park
Mt. Egmont 1 A N Napier Hawkes Cape Egmont 45 2518 m 4 A 50 W Bay
A Hastings Egmont Whanganui Ruahine Taihape M National Park T National Park S Forest Park 1 . Wanganui Feilding Palmerston North Woodville Levin 52 Foxton . S T 58 M A Waikanae RU Masterton RA Lower Hutt TA Tararua 53 Upper Hutt Forest Park WELLINGTON Haurangi NORTH ISLAND Cook Forest Park Auckland Strait