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Frommer's New Zealand, 3Rd Edition 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:11 AM Page i New Zealand 3rd Edition by Adrienne Rewi Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:11 AM Page ii About the Author Adrienne Rewi is a Christchurch-based freelance photojournalist who writes regu- larly for more than 25 New Zealand and overseas publications, covering most sub- ject areas. She is the author of three nonfiction book titles: Architects at Home: 30 New Zealand Architects in Their Own Homes; Fine Cheese: Gourmet Cheesemaking in New Zealand; and Private Views: Interviews with 20 New Zealand Gardeners. Adri- enne has also worked as a photojournalist in several Asian countries and is currently working on a selection of short stories. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright ©2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572- 4447, E-Mail: [email protected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4292-3 Editor: Myka Carroll Production Editor: Donna Wright Cartographer: John Decamillis Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Fiordland National Park, South Island Back cover photo: Milford Sound For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:11 AM Page iii Contents List of Maps vii What’s New in New Zealand 1 1 The Best of New Zealand 4 1 The Best Beaches . .5 9 The Best Museums . .11 2 The Best Active Vacations . .6 10 The Best Maori Experiences . .12 3 The Best of Natural New 11 The Best B&Bs . .13 Zealand . .6 12 The Best Luxury 4 The Best Tramps . .7 Accommodations . .13 5 The Best Offbeat Travel 13 The Best Moderately Experiences . .8 Priced Accommodations . .14 6 The Best Views . .9 14 The Best Restaurants . .15 7 The Best Drives . .10 15 The Best Shopping . .16 8 The Best Gardens . .10 2 Planning Your Trip to New Zealand 17 1 The Regions in Brief . .17 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information . .22 Travel Resource . .37 3 Entry Requirements & 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . .38 Customs . .22 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . .40 4 Money . .24 11 Getting There . .41 The New Zealand Dollar, Coping with Jet Lag . .45 the U.S. Dollar & the 12 Package Deals & Escorted British Pound . .25 Tours . .45 5 When to Go . .25 13 Getting Around . .47 New Zealand Calendar 14 Tips on Accommodations . .53 of Events . .27 Start Packing! . .55 6 Travel Insurance . .30 15 Tips on Dining . .56 7 Health & Safety . .32 16 Suggested Itineraries . .58 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .33 17 Recommended Books & Films . .61 9 Planning Your Trip Online . .36 Fast Facts: New Zealand . .61 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:11 AM Page iv iv CONTENTS 3 The Active Vacation Planner 65 1 Tramping . .65 5 Skiing & Snowboarding . .78 Safety in the Great Outdoors . .66 Sloping Off to Ski School . .79 2 Fishing . .74 6 Bicycling . .81 3 Boating & Other Watersports . .76 7 Other Guided Tours, 4 Golf . .78 Outfitters & Package Deals . .82 4 Auckland 84 1 Orientation . .84 5 Exploring Auckland . .115 The Neighborhoods in Brief . .90 6 Outdoor Activities & 2 Getting Around . .91 Spectator Sports . .125 Fast Facts: Auckland . .93 7 Shopping . .127 Suggested Itineraries . .94 The Markets . .129 3 Where to Stay . .95 8 Auckland After Dark . .130 4 Where to Dine . .108 Placing Your Bets: A Night at the Casino . .132 A Cheap Feed at the Food Halls . .109 9 A Side Trip to Waiheke Island . .133 5 Northland & Coromandel 139 1 Bay of Islands & the 2 Whangarei & Beyond . .153 Far North . .139 Into the Deep Blue Sea . .155 Backpacker Paradise . .148 3 The Coromandel Peninsula . .157 6 Waikato & Bay of Plenty 167 1 Hamilton & the Waikato . .167 2 Tauranga & Bay of Plenty . .174 Underworld Adventures . .171 7 Rotorua, Taupo & Tongariro National Park 180 1 Rotorua . .180 2 Taupo . .201 Suggested Itineraries . .183 3 Tongariro National Park . .211 Bubble, Bubble, Toil & Trouble: The Geothermal Attractions . .190 8 Gisborne & Hawkes Bay 217 1 Gisborne & the East Cape . .217 A Taste of the Wineries . .230 2 Hawkes Bay . .227 Especially for Kids . .234 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page v CONTENTS v 9 Taranaki & Wanganui 240 1 New Plymouth: Gateway Dawson Falls . .244 to Egmont National Park . .240 2 Wanganui . .247 10 Wellington 253 1 Orientation . .253 Wellington for Free . .275 The Neighborhoods in Brief . .258 Especially for Kids . .277 2 Getting Around . .259 6 Outdoor Pursuits . .278 Fast Facts: Wellington . .260 7 Shopping . .280 3 Where to Stay . .261 Shopping for Souvenirs . .281 4 Where to Dine . .266 8 Wellington After Dark . .282 5 Exploring Wellington . .272 9 A Side Trip to Wairarapa . .284 Suggested Itineraries . .272 For Antiques Hounds . .287 11 Marlborough & Nelson 291 1 Picton & Blenheim . .291 3 Abel Tasman National Park Sleeping Among the Grapes . .295 & Golden Bay . .314 2 Nelson, Richmond & Motueka . .299 12 Christchurch & Canterbury 319 1 Orientation . .319 6 Outdoor Pursuits . .346 The Neighborhoods in Brief . .323 Taking to the Slopes . .349 2 Getting Around . .324 7 Shopping . .350 Fast Facts: Christchurch . .325 8 Christchurch After Dark . .352 3 Where to Stay . .326 Hedging Your Bets . .353 Inner City Backpackers . .328 9 Side Trips from Christchurch . .353 4 Where to Dine . .332 On the Run . .355 5 Exploring Christchurch . .338 Hot & Steamy . .358 Wine Tours . .344 Marine Experiences in An Unforgettable Train Trip . .346 Kaikoura . .359 13 West Coast & the Glaciers 361 1 Westport & Karamea . .361 4 Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers . .377 2 Greymouth & Lake Brunner . .368 Lake Matheson & Lake 3 Hokitika: Greenstone, Mapourika . .380 Glowworms & Gold . .373 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page vi vi CONTENTS 14 Queenstown & Environs 385 1 Wanaka: Gateway to Mount Suggested Itineraries . .400 Aspiring National Park . .385 Especially for Kids . .401 2 Mount Cook . .394 4 Te Anau . .424 3 Queenstown . .396 5 Milford Sound . .431 Fast Facts: Queenstown . .399 15 Dunedin, Southland & Stewart Island 434 1 Dunedin . .434 2 Invercargill . .457 Fast Facts: Dunedin . .439 Suggested Itineraries . .460 Suggested Itineraries . .439 3 Stewart Island . .465 A Train Trip to Taieri Gorge . .448 Making a Date with a Kiwi . .470 Appendix A: New Zealand in Depth 473 1 The Natural Environment . .473 4 Maori Language & Culture . .478 2 History 101 . .474 Maori for Beginners . .479 Dateline . .474 5 A Taste of New Zealand . .480 3 New Zealand Today . .478 6 Wine, Wine & More Wine . .480 Appendix B: A Glossary of Useful Terms 482 1 Kiwi/Yankee Terms . .482 2 Menu Terms . .483 Index 485 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page vii List of Maps New Zealand at a Glance 18 Wellington 254 Greater Auckland 86 Marlborough, Nelson & Beyond Central Auckland 96 292 Devonport 99 Central Nelson 301 Northland 141 Christchurch 320 Waikato & Bay of Plenty 169 West Coast 363 Rotorua & Environs 181 Central Queenstown 397 Greater Rotorua 185 Te Anau & Fiordland 425 Lake Taupo Region 203 Dunedin 436 Gisborne & Hawkes Bay 219 Southland 459 Taranaki & the River Region 241 01 542923 FM.qxd 1/26/04 10:12 AM Page viii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s New Zealand, 3rd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling.
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