Most ExpensiveThe RetailInside: Areas Pg. 12 DIDDY’S CLOSURE/3 PREMIUM DENIM ROLLS ON/8 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 23, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Scout’s Honor LOS ANGELES — Go take a hike. For fall, junior designers are saluting Boy Scouts founder Robert Baden-Powell, working military details into shorts, jackets and tops in appropriately drab earth tones. Here, Roxy’s sweatshirt and bolero, Ogle’s T-shirt, and Element’s pants, all in cotton. Columbia hat and Holster belt. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

The Selling of Jones: TPG, Cerberus Said

Y MELISSA MAGSAYSAY Jockeying for Position By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — There’s a fresh “for sale”

AGEMENT/KIEHL’S; STYLED B AGEMENT/KIEHL’S; sign hanging on Jones Apparel Group’s door, and two aggressive private equity firms seem to be the ones knocking the loudest. Although no bidding has occurred, Texas Pacific Group and Cerberus KEUP BY SONIA LEE/ARTISTS MAN SONIA LEE/ARTISTS KEUP BY Capital Management — which own, respectively, Neiman Marcus Group and Mervyns — already are said to be in discussions with Jones, according

YAN/LA MODELS; HAIR AND MA YAN/LA to several investment bankers and some private equity contacts. Those talks could lead to either firm making a separate offer for Jones, owner of See Equity, Page 5 T GRIFFITH PARK, L.A.; MODEL: LENA BEDO T GRIFFITH PARK, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEREMY GOLDBERG A BY PHOTOGRAPHED WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Go exploring in fall’s Boy Scout-inspired gear, featuring shorts of all 6 lengths, camo prints, button-down shirts and cropped jackets. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Private equity fi rms Texas Pacifi c Group and Cerberus Capital 1 Management are said to be in sale discussions with Jones Apparel Group. SIZE MATTERS Gap Inc. said it plans to open 10 Forth & Towne stores in fi ve new areas: Plus Size Women are Finding More and More Options 3 Atlanta, Houston, Los Angeles, San Francisco/San Jose and Seattle. “You don’t have to be a size two to be a perfect U.S. Customs said it made 26 seizures of Chinese apparel and textile than was being offered at a less luxury-centered imports valued at $6 million that violated an agreement with China. ten” was the tagline for Curves, a 2002 documentary store,” says Chris Phillips, Vice President, 4 about the world of plus size modeling. The film put Divisional Merchandise for classic sportswear at DENIM: The expected downturn in the premium denim market hasn’t the spotlight on big beauty, the kind that so Saks Fifth Avenue’s Salon Z, which presents the 8 occurred and the jeans pyramid below it has maintained its strength. captivated Reubens and that is also capturing the department store’s plus-size brands. Currently, BEAT: Shecky’s Shop on Broome Street in SoHo isn’t a typical store attention of popular designers and Saks has about 50 stores and 9 — it leases fl oor space and display cases to a variety of vendors. brands. Indeed, over the past Salon Z is in 26 of them.” ACTIVE: Stella McCartney presented her new fall line of Adidas by Stella decade, the options for women Phillips elaborates on the 10 McCartney on Monday, using scenic Aspen as a backdrop. size 15 and greater has expanded; range of Salon Z, “We offer with recent entries focusing on primarily bridge selections from EYE contemporary designs. Ellen Tracy, Dana Buchman and Cate Blanchett was toasted by husband Andrew Upton and friends at a This has not always been the Layfayette148. We also have a 16 dinner in her honor at the Country restaurant hosted by Gucci. case. Years ago, Oscar de la Renta gold range, which is our entry was asked why he did not design point into designer collections Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 for larger women. He replied: “I’m with names like Rinaldo by To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. a designer; I don’t upholster sofas.” MaxMara and Steve Fabricant.” [email protected], using the individual’s name. He has since apologized for the Phillips admits, however, that he WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- remark, and 15 years ago launched would like to do more. “We’re still RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 62. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- his Oscar line for plus sizes. seeing a void of designer products ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- Such a turn-around in designer for plus-size women, but we are ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, thinking is more than a matter “I want the hip stuff. I don’t want working with our key partners in Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers you to sell me something just Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and of politeness or pity, it is a matter the market to offer more of a C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; of good business. According to because it’s made in a plus size.” designer mix.” David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle — Michelle Martinez, With such high-end entrants as Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Dulce Showroom Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Monitor™, 20% of the U.S. female Liz Claiborne Woman, Sak’s Salon Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. population is a size 15 or greater. More telling is the Z and Bloomingdale’s Shop for Women, has the 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS fact that this figure has remained relatively steady over mix and availability for plus-size fashions really CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, the past seven years. advanced over the past decade? Elisabeth’s Barry ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four A host of curvaceous celebrities have done their Zelman says yes. “The selection and availability is weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. part to make the ample woman sexy again. Think of light years from what it once was. Department stores Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other Queen Latifah at the Oscar’s in that fabulous Carmen have really done a great job and the entire fashion U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Marc Valvo gown; or Kirstie Allie coming out of her industry is taking this customer a lot more seriously.” and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions “Veronica’s Closet” in the hit “What’s important in and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To series “Fat Actress.” Jennifer Stability of Sizes 15+ regards to the growth of this subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Lopez is not a plus size, but Share Over Past Eight Years market is the shift towards interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise her much-ballyhooed booty has Avg. 22.66% more contemporary clothes us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- also contributed to a collective in the mix,” says Weston. SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- mindset that full-figured is preferable to empty. “While it’s very important to address the Baby ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, These days, plus-size women are finding more and Boomers, you also have to address the younger OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED more options. Though specialty stores such as Lane consumer.” This is sage advice considering that the Bryant and Avenue continue to supply their fashion highest growth in plus-size sportswear was from needs, today’s plus-size consumer can also choose women aged 20-24. Perhaps that is why more from mainstream brands, popular designers and mainstream, youthful brands such as Tommy In Brief upscale retailers---all bending over backwards to serve Hilfiger and Gap have tossed their hats into the what had been considered a niche market. plus-size ring. ● MULBERRY ON BLEECKER: Mulberry has confi rmed its plans “Liz Claiborne was really a pioneer in the plus-size “I want the hip stuff. I don’t want you to sell to open a store at 387 Bleecker Street in New York, which was market, “ says Barry Zelman, Vice-President me something just because it’s made in a plus size,” fi rst reported in WWD earlier this month. A company spokes- and General Manager of Elisabeth Retail for says Michelle Martinez, a plus-size customer and woman said the store, Mulberry’s fi rst in the U.S., would open in August, and carry the full range of accessories for men and Liz Claiborne. “We opened our first Elisabeth the founder of the Dulce Showroom in New York. women. It will also offer Mulberry’s bespoke bag service, which is boutique in 1990 because Liz Claiborne has always Frustration over a lack of contemporary plus-size currently only available in the U.K. A men’s bespoke service will positioned itself as a brand that meets the needs of styles led Martinez to open her showroom and be available starting in the fall. Customers can choose their own women---all women---and we realized the retail companion website. In both, she presents colors and materials, and the bags are engraved with initials. needs of women who wear a size 14 and up were not her personal best-of-the-best in contemporary ● being satisfactorily addressed.” plus-size fashion. VF APPOINTMENTS: Boyd Rogers has assumed responsibil- ity for all of VF Corp.’s global supply chain. Previously, Rogers The Elisabeth boutiques present the titular line of Among the young designers creating clothes oversaw supply chain responsibilities for VF’s Americas and plus-size clothing in shopping environments that featured at Dulce are Svoboda’s contemporary denim Asian operations. Tom Glaser has been promoted to president convey a positive message about size. The success of line, as well as the work of Darren Trentacosta. of the company’s European and Asian supply chain operations. Elisabeth --prompted Liz Claiborne to launch Liz Trentacosta’s career/casual collections feature clean Glaser served as managing director of Asian sourcing, a posi- Claiborne Woman, both a brand and department silhouettes. His pieces are tailored for the plus-size tion that will be taken over by Tom Nelson. Nelson is a 22-year store outpost, in 2001. There, the plus-size consumer woman who is proud of her curves. “Traditionally in company veteran and has spent the last three years in Asia. can find a full range of styles and price points from plus sizes the whole idea was to cover up,” explains ● LIVING LIKE THE STARS: Like the flirty top Amanda Bynes such well-known labels as Emma James, Dana Trentacosta. “Today, you have a new generation wore in the last episode of “What I Like About You”? Log into Buchman, Sigrid Olsen and Ellen Tracy. of plus-size women who don’t see their curves as a starstyle.com and you’ll find not only the label — Bono’s Edun Michelle Weston, executive editor of AmaZE bad thing.” collection — but also where it’s sold — Saks Fifth Avenue. With magazine, an online publication aimed at the This story is one in a series of articles based on findings the recent launch of starstyle.com, spearheaded by former CBS president Jim Rosenfield, shoppers will be able to buy anything plus-size consumer explains, “I think it’s really from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ important to talk about what’s going on with the new — from candlesticks and couches to candy-striped party frocks tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, — that tempts their fancy from an assortment of TV shows, players in this so-called niche market.” Adds Weston, each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the movies and music videos. The site also includes style tips from “It’s very funny to call it a niche market since 62 American consumer and her attitudes and behavior Talitha Peters, who once had a walk-on role in J.J. Abrams’ million women wear a size 12 and up.” regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, “Felicity,” and Debrae Little, the costume designer behind “Big “We saw Salon Z as a great opportunity to offer fiber selection and many other timely, Momma’s House 2” and “Malibu’s Most Wanted.” For now, the this customer more fashionable, high-end clothing relevant subjects. roster of current shows includes Bynes’ vehicle, “As the World Turns,” “American Idol,” “Guiding Light” and “The Young and the Restless.” WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 3 WWD.COM

A look from the Sean by Sean by Sean Combs Exiting Women’s Sean Combs holiday By Julee Greenberg down the runway following his men’s pre- Just two weeks ago, Sean John signed sentation. He promised the line would be a licensing agreement with G-III Apparel line. NEW YORK — Diddy is sending the Sean out that summer but it was again pushed Group to manufacture and distribute a Combs girl packing. back. At the time of the Sean by Sean young contemporary women’s sportswear Sean by Sean Combs, Sean “Diddy” Combs launch last June, he said, “I want collection called Sean John, set to launch Combs’ highly anticipated contemporary women to come into my world. I want to for spring 2007. Within three years, G-III women’s line that launched at retail last show the diversity of this young, fun, sexy, chief executive offi cer Morris Goldfarb holiday, has closed. Market sources said sophisticated woman. This is the woman said the brand has the potential to grow the women’s line shut down last Friday. we aspire to have. This is the woman the into a $100 million business at wholesale. “Beginning with the fall 2006 Sean John man wants.” Combs had stressed his two women’s season, we will be suspend- The collection was promi- brands could easily coexist and would ing the Sean by Sean Combs nently displayed in Bloom- cater to different customers. He said that line,” a spokesman for the ingdale’s fl agship windows while Sean John will mirror the men’s brand said. “We are put- here last holiday and wear in distribution and price point, it will ting it on hiatus in order Sean was selling at high-end be for a young contemporary customer, to concentrate on our “Diddy” retailers such as Saks while Sean by Sean Combs was for a more new business with G-III Combs Fifth Avenue, Neiman high-end contemporary shopper. Combs for the Sean John wom- Marcus and Bergdorf said at the time, “I thought I’d be launch- en’s line. We are not rul- Goodman. But the line ing this [Sean John women’s] earlier, but ing out the possibility of only brought in $3.5 it took me a bit longer to launch Sean by this brand coming back million in wholesale Sean Combs. I think now is a great time in due time.” volume during its first to announce to the world that we’re going According to the six months at retail. While into production on this.” spokesman, the fi nal spring that isn’t bad for a new con- Immediately prior to the agreement and pre-fall collections will temporary collection, it isn’t with G-III, there were signs of trouble for ship to stores as planned. the high volume that Combs is Sean by Sean Combs when Jenny La Fata, Combs fi rst announced his interest used to seeing: He does $450 million the brand’s vice president of design, left in launching a women’s sportswear busi- at retail with Sean John men’s. to become fashion director at Le Tigre. ness in 2000. He delayed the line several “I felt that the Sean John label brought La Fata said then that there were no times, and in February 2001 told WWD, a modern, sexy edge to the contemporary problems with the Sean by Sean Combs “I’m taking my time with that and don’t world,” said Robert Burke, founder of collection. She said she had left because want to overextend myself. Our women’s Robert Burke Associates, a consulting fi rm “Le Tigre is more my style” and “it was has been delayed to next year because I here. Burke picked up the Sean by Sean not a great fi t anymore.” want to get it right. But it will be incred- Combs line when he was working as fash- A replacement for La Fata was never ibly sexy, strong, approachable and hot.” ion director at Bergdorf Goodman. “Sean’s named, but just two weeks ago, Combs Two years later, he teased the idea of a understanding of the consumer was unique told WWD that the internal design team

women’s collection by sending eight looks and valid.” was hard at work on the line. TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY

Forth & Towne Sets Expansion Vuitton North America Appoints President By Emili Vesilind PARIS — Louis Vuitton North America is Celine, another fashion and leather goods LOS ANGELES — Forth & Towne, the new Gap Inc. apparel concept geared to about to welcome a new president. house owned by luxury giant LVMH Moët women over 35, is in growth mode for fall. Jean-Marc Gallot, who has held that Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Brunschwig was Gap said Wednesday there are plans to open about 10 Forth & Towne stores post since October 2003, is heading to succeeded by Philippe Schaus, who was in fi ve new markets: Atlanta, Houston, Los Angeles, San Francisco/San Jose and Europe to become Vuitton’s European promoted from Vuitton’s European presi- Seattle. Specifi c locations haven’t been set. president. A Vuitton spokeswoman here dent to international director. Gallot suc- “These new markets represent a high concentration of where our customers re- confi rmed the move, but noted Gallot ceeds Schaus. side,” said Gary Muto, president of Forth & Towne. “We’ve been pleased with the re- would not go to Paris until his successor North America is a key market for action so far. We’re relatively new, and we believe we have something innovative.” in North America had been named. “This LVMH. Last year, 22 percent of its sales in There are now five person has not yet been recruited,” she fashion and leather goods were generat- Forth & Towne stores: added. ed in the U.S., compared with 30 percent Forth & Towne at the Palisades Center Mall in Nyack, N.Y. The fi rst unit opened in The management shuffle was pre- in Japan, 18 percent in the rest of Asia, 17 August at Palisades Cen- cipitated earlier this month when Serge percent in Europe, excluding France, and ter Mall in Nyack, N.Y., Brunschwig, Vuitton’s managing director, 9 percent in France. and four stores subse- was appointed chief executive offi cer at — Miles Socha quently opened in the Chicago area. Asked if Forth & Towne was created to help remedy declining sales of the Gap brand, Miuccia Prada Muto said, “I think, for and Patrizio us, the concept was re- Bertelli ally about a market op- launching portunity and less about the new Luna Gap Inc.” Rossa yacht. Products for the concept are priced be- tween prices at Gap and Banana Republic stores. Pants range from $50 to $100; blouses, from $48 to $80, and jackets, from $70 to $200. Sizes range from 2 to 20, a generous span that taps into yet another underrepresented market, said Austyn Zung, executive vice president of design and product development for Forth & Towne. “A team of people here realized that there was such a lack of stylish clothes for more grown-up women at this price point,’’ said Zung. “At the collection level of design, they seem to do it really well — they realize that the money is in this more grown-up age group. But at the mass level, no one is doing a really good job of bringing well-designed fashion to this group of women.” Forth & Towne stores are about 10,000 square feet and carry four labels spe- cifi cally manufactured for the concept. Zung characterized the Allegory brand as “tailored femininity”; Vocabulary as “eclectic style, with embellishment and embroidery”; Gap Edition as “fresh, casual American style for a more grown-up Prada’s Cup Hopes Runneth Over woman,” and Prize as “trend-conscious.” Each store features a circular “fi tting salon” in the middle of the space that features three-way mirrors and adjustable lighting. “Style consultants” advise MILAN — Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli and wife Miuccia Prada launched the new customers on accessories and alterations. “We’re looking at this as more like a Luna Rossa yacht in Valencia, Spain, on Wednesday, complete with the designer break- store from the 1950s, like an old Chicago department store where customers get ing the traditional bottle of champagne on its hull. The event was held at the team’s an excellent styling experience,” said Robin Carr, director of media relations. new headquarters, which were designed by Renzo Piano. The next America’s Cup Forth & Towne is the fourth concept from Gap Inc., which operates about series will be held in Valencia in 2007, with Switzerland defending. This is the third 3,000 stores internationally under the Gap, Banana Republic and Old Navy time a Luna Rossa yacht will take part in the America’s Cup. brands. Fiscal 2005 sales were $16 billion, compared with $16.3 billion in 2004. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 WWD.COM

BLACK MARKS: Fashion memoirist Emily Davies’ claim that her uncredited Bond No. 9 to Give ‘Peace’ a Chance MEMO PAD use of previously published material was an NEW YORK — Fragrance marketer Bond No. 9, including two more fragrances planned for this accident is seeming less credible. Davies, a former fashion writer which is known for its scents inspired by Man- year — Fire Island in June and West Side Story for the Times of London, continues to insist she had no intention hattan neighborhoods, is set to launch a unisex in November. of passing off another writer’s words as her own in her proposal for fragrance called The Scent of Peace that — much Rahme is also planning to open two more “How to Wear Black,” but former colleagues and other journalists in as its name would suggest Bond No. 9 boutiques, in London’s fashion community say the episode fi ts a pattern. — is inspired by a state of Manhattan’s Harlem and Davies’ supposed status as a fashion insider is the basis for harmony. Chelsea neighborhoods by “How to Wear Black,” which reportedly fetched a six-fi gure bid from “It’s a message of peace BEAUTY BEAT yearend, for a total of six Simon & Schuster and Random House U.K. in a December auction. from New York to the world stores. Elsewhere on the In the proposal, Davies offers specifi c examples of that status, — it’s a symbolic image,” said Laurice Rahme, expansion front, Rahme expects to increase the including “dining with Donna Karan on sea cucumber in Tokyo” and founder of Bond No. 9. “Hopefully, it’s number of international markets that attending “Jennifer Lopez’s engagement party at Donatella Versace’s the place we all want to live in.” She carry Bond No. 9 by yearend to 10: Lake Como villa.” Both of those claims seem now to be false, or added that The Scent of Peace was Austria, Russia, Asia, South Africa, at least inaccurate. “To the best of my knowledge, Donna was one of her more challenging projects, Switzerland, Holland, England, only in Tokyo one time (and I was with her), and she did not have since it’s meant to address a concept Germany, Italy and the Middle East. dinner with this person,” said Patti Cohen, executive vice president that extends beyond neighborhood Rahme projects the company will of marketing and communications for Donna Karan International. boundaries and targets a much have total revenues of $30 mil- As for the party at Versace’s villa (held to celebrate Lopez’s broader consumer base than lion, 67 percent of which is ex- honeymoon, not her engagement), an organizer of the event did not previous Bond No. 9 scents. pected to be domestic turnover, believe Davies had been invited. While he did not have a copy of The Scent of Peace, which by yearend. the guest list on hand, he said only top editors, including Davies’ was created by Michel Almairac Next year, Rahme is planning then-boss, Times fashion editor Lisa Armstrong, were on it. of Robertet, features top notes of a Bond No. 9 makeup line, called Armstrong declined to comment, possibly because the Times grapefruit and black currant, mid- Talk of the Town. It is to include an is involved in ongoing litigation with Davies over her May 2005 dle notes of lily of the valley and assortment of color cosmetics sub- dismissal, which followed an investigation into her expenses. But hedione and base notes of cedar- divided into ranges tied to Bond sources in London said Armstrong reprimanded Davies several times wood and musk. The fragrance is No. 9’s neighborhood fragrances. for incorporating the words of other writers into her own articles. packaged in a lavender frosted She also has four fragrances One such incident occurred in June 2004, when Davies used version of Bond No. 9’s signa- planned for next year: Astor excerpts from a Financial Times shopping column by Susie Boyt in ture, star-shaped bottle. Its Place, Sutton Place, Union such a way as to make it appear she had interviewed Boyt, whose graphics feature a purple Square and a yet-to-be named editor then complained to Armstrong. A writer for another U.K. daily dove drawn “in the spirit of Brooklyn fragrance. said she discovered Davies had copied a designer profi le she had Picasso,” said Rahme, to sym- The Scent of Peace by Bond No. 9. — Michelle Edgar written “word for word.” “I never complained — I assumed it was bolize peace. just a one-off,” said the writer, who requested anonymity. The fragrance is priced at $195 for a 3.4-oz. Deborah Brett, who was Davies’ predecessor at the Times and bottle and at $120 for a 1.7-oz bottle. An accom- now works for British Harper’s Bazaar, has seen the proposal for panying candle is priced at $85. The scent will Stila Said Drawing Interest Down Under “How to Wear Black” and has her own problems with it. According also be available for $45 per oz., either in a 2-oz. NEW YORK — Reports are circulating that the to Davies, Brett said Ben de Lisi’s shows are always “terribly boring spray fl acon that costs an additional $25 or in one leading contender to acquire the Stila indie [and] terribly bland,” a comment she denies ever making. “It’s sad of an assortment of Bond No. 9 decorated bottles, cosmetics brand from the Estée Lauder Cos. is because I like Ben de Lisi and I’m going to have to make some which range in price from $40 to $70. Bond No. 9 an investment group led by Jane McKellar, who apologies to him, because it’s rather nasty what she says I said,” plans to donate $2 from the sale of each peace- was managing director of Elizabeth Arden in said Brett, who also challenged other details of Davies’ recollection. inspired fragrance to UNICEF. Australia. A spokeswoman at Lauder declined Davies did not respond to queries, but her agent, Simon Trewin, The scent will be launched in May and car- comment, saying, “We can’t comment on ru- defended her in an e-mail. “Emily is a highly respected journalist,” ried at Bond No. 9’s four New York boutiques, in mors.” A spokeswoman for Arden could not be he wrote Wednesday. “She most certainly attended the Lopez event 27 Saks Fifth Avenue doors and at about a dozen reached. and a Karan dinner (the location of this will all be fact-checked boutiques and spas nationwide. International Sources stressed that nothing has yet been for the fi nished book)....There were no accusations of plagiarism plans call for the scent to be introduced in June signed and negotiations are still in progress. In while she was at the London Times and her record of employment at 180 doors including Harvey Nichols in the October, Lauder said it had decided to sell Stila, contains no warnings that would back up your claims.” Ebury Press, U.K., Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and Paris a makeup artist brand it acquired in 1999. While the Random House unit that agreed to publish the book in the Gallery in Dubai. the company would not disclose volume fi gures, U.K., did not respond to a request for comment. Meanwhile, Sarah The Scent of Peace, which is Bond No. 9’s industry sources then estimated Stila’s sales at McGrath, an editor at Simon & Schuster’s Scribner imprint, said no 25th scent, could do up to $1 million in fi rst-year $35 million to $45 million at retail in the U.S. decision has been made on publishing the book in the U.S. sales, according to Rahme. “Stila has been part of the family for the last One person who hopes the book does not make it to press is Rahme, who keeps a running list of neighbor- seven years,” William Lauder, Lauder president Charles Scribner 3rd, a grandson of Scribner’s founder who spent 25 hoods that customers request, is not concerned and chief executive offi cer, said in October. “We years working at the company. “For very selfi sh historical reasons about running out of ideas for New York scents. feel that we’ve given it enough time to make a I would be disappointed to see my family’s name on the spine of “People [ask], ‘What about my neighborhood?’” go of it,” he said then, adding that ultimately, a book that took such liberties,” said Scribner, who has another she said. “We have a grassroots movement going Stila didn’t prove as strategically important as connection to the Davies affair: quotes he made to the New York on here. We do what the consumer asks us to do.” its fellow makeup artist brands MAC Cosmetics Times in 1998 appear in her proposal, but she credits them to She said she could do at least another 50 scents, and Bobbi Brown.

“bald” public relations man Paul Wilmot. “Why should somebody be MITRA ROBERT PEACE PHOTO BY given hundred of thousands of dollars for doing something you’d be kicked out of college for?” — Jeff Bercovici

PERSONNEL BUSINESS: It could be another year before the general public gets to see it, but Ruffo Said Closing Plant, 80 to Lose Jobs mocked-up pages for the new Condé Nast business magazine are likely now circulating By Luisa Zargani One source close to the company said Ruffo at 4 Times Square. Veteran art director Robert was hit hard by the designers’ choice to either Priest was recently brought in to work on the MILAN — Ruffo, the Italian leather goods manufac- produce in-house or outsource their leatherwear. prototype and will stay through the 2007 turer, is said to be set to shut down its production “The state-of-the-art structure of the plant had launch, a spokeswoman for the magazine plant outside Pisa and lay off its 80 employees. reached costs that were no longer sustainable, in confi rmed. Priest resigned from his post as Ruffo’s owner, Giacomo Corsi, declined to com- a market where low-cost workers from China are design director of O at Home several weeks ment Wednesday beyond saying that he is “cur- perfectly integrated,” said another source. ago and has been installed at Condé Nast Joanne rently restructuring” the fi rm and that he is in One analyst said he did not believe this was headquarters on a part-time basis ever since. Lipman talks with the unions. “an issue of bad management or of a lesser qual- (The rest of the week, he runs his own design Vincenzo Parrella, general secretary of Filtea ity” and said Corsi “may be more focused on other fi rm, Priest Media.) Cgil, the Italian association that covers workers in family and real estate businesses. Ruffo may no Reached by phone Wednesday, Priest would only say, “It’s a the textile and clothing industries, said he is inves- longer be pivotal for him.” good, serious subject. So I think it’s going to be a great magazine.” tigating the reasons behind Corsi’s decision. “We Joy Yaffe, who launched the fi rm’s experimental Asked about the look of the traditional leaders in the already well- don’t understand how such a structure that catered line Ruffo Research with Corsi and headhunted de- served category, like Fortune, Forbes and Business Week, Priest to the high end of the market, in an ever-expand- signers for it, said, “The quality of the leather was chuckled and said, “I’m not going to go there. Some of my best ing, global market, needs to be shut down,” said amazing, and Corsi is a man of integrity; the tanner- friends do those magazines.” Parrella. “We are trying to save the know-how of ies always provided him with only the best hides. Editor in chief Joanne Lipman also quietly poached two photo 80 skilled artisans who might be able to work di- “Also, I’ve never seen such a beautiful factory — editors from within the company a couple months back. Lisa Berman, rectly with fashion houses, for example. We can’t and it all worked like clockwork,” said Yaffe, who longtime deputy to Vanity Fair’s photography director Susan White, lose these manual skills.” joined the company in 1997 and left in 2003. Ruffo and Vanity Fair senior associate photo editor Sarah Czeladnicki are Parrella said Corsi blamed the closure on Research was introduced in 1998 and suspended now working in the photo department at the business magazine. That “ever-increasing competition, and to whittling or- in 2003 because of diffi cult market conditions. The makes an editorial team of seven so far, including deputy editor Jim ders by Italian designers.” collections were created by different designers Impoco, managing editor Blaise Zerega and senior writer Dan Roth. Ruffo, located in Calcinaia, outside Pisa, sup- every year. The last was Haider Ackermann, who A spokeswoman for Vanity Fair said that Berman’s duties had plies leatherwear to designers such as Prada, followed Alexander Mathieu, Sophia Kokosalaki, been divvied up among existing staff; Sasha Erwitt and Jessica Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli. Veronique Branquinho and Raf Simons. In Dimson were promoted to senior associate photo editor and assistant The Ruffo brand store in Florence is being closed, spring 2004, Corsi said he was relaunching Ruffo photo editor, respectively, and Mark Jacobson came over from following the shutting down of its Milan boutique Research with Riccardo Tisci, but the project fell Entertainment Weekly as associate photo editor. — Sara James and showroom. The next meeting between Corsi through two months into the relationship when and the unions is scheduled for next Tuesday. Corsi suspended the collection. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 5 WWD.COM Equity Firms Said in Talks With Jones Continued from page one ference call to Wall Street earlier this month, when the company announced second- Barneys New York, or to a joint bid for the $5 billion apparel firm. quarter earnings, does not consider Barneys a direct competitor. He told analysts that Observers say Jones is looking for at least $40 a share, which would value the group his company has “a very different mix of customer base than they do, especially out of at $4.56 billion, and that a deal could be concluded within six weeks. After soaring 13 town in the Neiman stores, and so does Bergdorf [Goodman]. And we’ve been operat- percent on Tuesday, shares of Jones Apparel Group closed at $34.59, down 25 cents, in ing very well in California against them in Beverly Hills. So we think we are in a very trading Wednesday. good position to face that new rollout.” Cerberus, which owns Mervyns, Rafaella Still, Barneys is considered an “attractive Sportswear and Fila, is said to be “seriously business to any of a number of prospective in pursuit” of Jones, according to fi nancial buyers,” noted Jeffrey Edelman, analyst at sources. An acquisition by TPG, which owns J. UBS. Crew as well as Neiman Marcus, might result While Jones said it was looking to sell the in the creation of a mega luxury and specialty entire company and not its parts separately, retailer, one that would redefi ne the high-end a fi nancial buyer is expected to split up the channel. footwear, apparel and Barneys operations at Executives at Jones declined comment, as some point, according to private equity sourc- did a spokeswoman for Texas Pacifi c Group. es and investment bankers. A spokesman for Cerberus did not return a Brad Stephens, analyst at Morgan Keegan, request for comment by press time. observed, “In my opinion, the sum of the parts Industry contacts and investment bankers is greater than the whole in a case like this. If said VF Corp. was one of the fi rms that turned you sell the company whole, [the likelihood down a merger proposal fl oated by Jones chief is] someone comes in and then splits up the executive offi cer Peter Boneparth. That led company. This is not an easy business to be Boneparth to seek a buyer in the private eq- in right now. You’ve got retail consolidation, uity sector. proliferation of private label product, direct Boneparth is said to have also contacted sourcing and retailers ordering less up front Bain Capital. Blackstone, which some market and doing more with niche brands to drive observers said had been interested, is now traffi c. For a company to do all three together said not to be looking at Jones. — footwear, apparel and luxury retail — is Gilbert Harrison, founder and chairman of not the best way to realize the ultimate value investment banking fi rm Financo, said, “The Barneys is considered a valuable of the company.” merger and acquisition environment is ex- piece of the Jones portfolio. While Jones could still decide against sell- tremely attractive. However, this is a transac- ing, Lizabeth Dunn, analyst at Prudential tion that will represent over $5 billion in en- Equity Group, wrote in a research note, “We terprise value....There is a likelihood that two or more private equity funds will join can’t argue that it’s a great time to be a seller. There appears to be signifi cant fi nan- together to buy the company with management in place.” cial buyer interest in the consumer sector currently.” A purchase by TPG, even in a joint bid with Cerberus, would give TPG both She noted that there is a “solid operating margin turn opportunity, and we believe Neiman Marcus, which it acquired jointly with Warburg Pincus last year, and Barneys taking the company out of the spotlight of the public markets could help manage- New York. ment expedite necessary changes to drive profi tability. Jones has strong free-cash Neiman Marcus, according to chairman and chief executive Burt Tansky in a con- fl ow, which fi nancial buyers typically look for.” Yuta Powell’s Refi ned Retail Approach Customs Seizes By Sharon Edelson Since space is at a premium, only a handful of design- Chinese Goods ers are carried, including Loulou de la Falaise, Tomasz NEW YORK — A dress form displaying a tightly fi tted red Starzewski eveningwear, Bruce Oldenfi eld knitwear and, soon, WASHINGTON — U.S. Customs & Border evening gown stands in the doorway of a Jean-Louis Scherrer. Powell said she expects to do Protection said Wednesday it has made third-fl oor suite at the Hotel Plaza Athénée $2 million in sales in the fi rst year. 26 seizures of Chinese apparel and textile marking the entrance to Yuta Powell’s gen- One reason clients keep returning is that they imports valued at $6 million that violated teel retail venture, a salon modeled after the know Powell has pieces that can be found nowhere a special import restraint agreement be- French haute couture ateliers of the Fifties else. She asks designers to create special items for tween the two nations. and Sixties. her, often describing or sketching what she wants. Janet Labuda, director of Cus toms’ Powell, who owned the Givenchy boutique She was in the habit of doing this with Givenchy Textile Enforcement & Operations divi- on Madison Avenue and 75th Street, knows and tried to continue with the designer’s succes- sion, said the seized goods were “mis- how to create a mise-en-scène. As a student sors, but she didn’t fi nd them very willing. described” to circumvent the quotas on in Paris in 1970, she worked as a salesgirl at “Alexander McQueen was very talented, but certain Chinese imports. The products the House of Givenchy. When the designer so stubborn,” she said, adding that John Galliano covered a whole range of categories, she saw her walking down the stairs one day, he didn’t take kindly to outside suggestions, either. said. plucked her from the sales fl oor and promot- Luckily, the designers she works with now “CBP is charged with enforcing trade ed her to the atelier. She spent the next few are more accommodating. A tweed de la Falaise laws and we continue to be focused on years learning everything she could about jacket with bold yellow and orange fl owers em- the circumvention of quotas,” Acting the fashion house, from how hats and gloves broidered on felt hand-sewn appliqués, which Commissioner Deborah J. Spero said in a were made to the way tiny flowers were retails for $2,600, is an example of Powell’s col- statement. ironed onto bustiers. laborative style. The Bush administration, under pres- Powell got married a few years later and “I asked Loulou to do something fun with a sure from domestic manufacturers and moved to New York with her husband, think- proper tweed jacket,” Powell Congress, signed an agreement with China ing she’d left the fashion world behind. In said. “I mentioned Frida in November that restricts 34 types of ap- 1984, Givenchy opened a boutique on Madison Yuta Powell Kahlo, and off she went. It parel and textile imports, valued at more Avenue and asked Powell to run it. Two years looks like Frida Kahlo-meets- than $6 billion annually, through 2008. later, she purchased the rights to the store. Heidi. I don’t ask for things Customs made the seizures over the Powell operated the Givenchy shop for 14 that make no sense or can’t past three weeks, bringing the value of ap- years, until the designer’s retirement in 1995, be done.” parel and textile products seized in fi scal when his business was sold to LVMH Moët At Scherrer, a small eques- year 2006 to more than $20 million. Hennessy Louis Vuitton. trian-looking collection gave Early last month, Customs announced

In 2000, Carolina Herrera bought the THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY Powell an idea for a jacket it had seized $10 million worth of cot- building and gave Powell the franchise to A dress by Loulou de with a long tail and two but- ton and man-made apparel imports from the store. “When I took on [Herrera] it was la Falaise with agate tons in the front. “I was play- China over a four-month period that were a house that needed direction and defi ni- and freshwater ing around with the design misclassifi ed as ramie products in what tion,” Powell said. “I saw it as a very special pearls, priced at team,” she said. “I had them it deemed a “scheme to circumvent the product.” $5,200. make it in leather.” China safeguards by misdescribing cotton Powell left Herrera in 2005 and began for- Powell’s clients are pro- merchandise as ramie, which has a much mulating her current business. fessional or socially active lower rate of duty.” Her suite at the Plaza Athénée is decorated with plump, women, ranging in age from As a result, Customs began reducing gold- and brown-striped sofas and cream- and gold-striped 30 to 60. “It’s someone who the amount of Chinese cotton and man- drapes. A bottle of champagne is usually chilling in a bucket has a good body,” she said. made fi ber trousers and cotton knit shirts in the main room, and arrangements of fresh fl owers can be “Someone who is confi dent allowed to enter the country because of found throughout the apartment — even in the two spacious and has her own style. I’m not inexpensive, but the quality is the fraudulent classifi cations. Those cat- bathrooms used for dressing rooms. there. There is a serious following.” egories were embargoed because they had Powell, who was born in Sweden, has always emphasized Customers appreciate the civility of the shopping experi- reached quota limits in July and August. service and quality over the size of a retail operation. “This is ence. There are never more than a few customers in the suite The U.S. then started allowing a percent- sort of a reaction to the mass ways of large retailers,” she said. at any one time, and more often than not, appointments are age of the shipments that had been in stor- “I’m sort of going for what I like best. I have the time to do it private. “We do deliveries, and I stay open late,” said Powell. age to enter on Feb. 1. on terms that are more special.” “You can shop in privacy and total comfort.” — Kristi Ellis 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006

Convoy’s embroidered bolero, Matix’s Body Glove’s cotton T-shirt and 213 Industry’s shorts, all in shirt; Generic Youth’s cotton. Split belt; Dakine backpack. cotton fl eece and wool sweatshirt, and Be Bop’s cotton cropped pants. Fox hat. R APPENRODT; STYLED BY MELISSA MAGSAYSAY STYLED BY R APPENRODT;

The AND KARIN LOPEZ; ALL SHOES BY DR. MARTENS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SONIA LEE/ARTISTS MANAGEMENT/KIEHL’S; FASHION ASSISTANT: JENNIFE ASSISTANT: FASHION MANAGEMENT/KIEHL’S; SONIA LEE/ARTISTS HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MARTENS; DR. ALL SHOES BY AND KARIN LOPEZ; PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEREMY GOLDBERG AT GRIFFITH PARK, L.A.; MODEL: LENA BEDOYAN/LA MODELS; BOY SCOUTS: JOHN PICKERING, UZIEL MERINO MODELS; BOY L.A.; MODEL: LENA BEDOYAN/LA GRIFFITH PARK, JEREMY GOLDBERG AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Fox’s acrylic jacket with sherpa collar; Unionbay’s shirt; Ezekiel’s cotton T-shirt and shorts and cotton and wool vest. Columbia hat; Convoy belt; Fox bag.

e GreatLOS ANGELES —Outdoors Go exploring in fall’s Boy Scout-inspired gear, featuring shorts of all lengths, camo prints, button-down shirts and cropped jackets adorned with patches.

Zinc’s jacket, Volcom’s shirt, Hurley’s shorts and Self Esteem’s T-shirt, all in cotton. Columbia hat; Leather Island belt.

Rip Curl’s cotton dress; Gallaz’s cotton shirt and shorts. Split belt; DC backpack; Etnies scarf. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 WWD.COM Denim Report Premium Keeping Pace in ’06 By Ross Tucker executive offi cer, said during the company’s conference call. “We have an opportunity to build an incredible premium sportswear business NEW YORK — Don’t count out the premium denim market yet, nor the on the back of our premium denim business.” jeans pyramid below it. The fi rm opened its fi rst freestanding store this year, which Lubell Paper Denim & Cloth announced plans in January to reposition said had sales of more than $500,000 in its fi rst three months. the brand at a lower price, reigniting debate over the future of Premium’s persistence appears buoyed by continued strength in the premium denim market. As the fi rst quarter of the year nears the broader denim market. Recent walk-throughs conducted by re- an end, signs of a shakeout of the crowded premium denim mar- tail analysts showed denim to be a key category at retail. Citigroup ket have yet to appear and several brands are doing more than retail analyst Kimberly Greenberger was the host of a mall walk just surviving. on March 17 at Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J. Greenberger “While we have seen a disconnect between fashion and reality in brought along merchandising expert Paula Ullmann, who identi- terms of color, we have also seen the pundits who have called for the fi ed denim as a primary spring fashion trend. death of premium denim so far proven wrong in 2006,” Eric Beder, “Denim continues to drive volume, despite a lack of new a retail analyst with Brean Murray Carret & Co., said in a research directional trend, and is performing above expectations,” report issued Monday after a mall tour. “We have seen no slowdown in Greenberger said in a report. “The popularity of the denim denim, just a shift to less aggressive washes and tearing.” short has been particularly surprising.” Doomsday predictions about the denim market reached a peak Chris Analyst Beder said in his report that growth isn’t limited to spe- during the back-to-school season. Beginning in May, retail Gilbert cialty retailers like American Eagle, Abercrombie analysts noted retailers were placing huge denim orders & Fitch and Express. He pointed to True Religion, in anticipation of the fall season. Some of those retailers, Antik and Taverniti as prime examples of premium Express in particular, had missed considerable sales by not brands that are thriving. stocking enough denim the previous year and seemed to be “For True Religion, we believe the brand moving to the other extreme. has continued to take market share at both As the months passed, the words “denim glut” appeared Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s,” Beder wrote. with increasing frequency in analysts’ research reports and “At Nordstrom, the level of women’s offerings is comparable-store sales previews. Most analysts believed the beginning to rival Seven for primacy.” fi rst signs of weakness in the denim market would naturally The biggest inroads at department stores have occur at its highest end. come from Antik and Taverniti, both manufac- However, denim proved to be a top seller for the b-t-s tured by Blue Holdings. season and the rumblings of a glut faded. Even so, denim “From virtually no offerings last year, we have industry executives acknowledged that the constant fl ow of already seen reorder for the lower-priced Antik premium players entering the market would increase pres- line at both Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s in sure on the segment and had created some confusion among the fi rst month of sales,” Beder’s report noted. At stores and consumers. Then Paper Denim’s move led some Bloomingdale’s, Beder said he found more than to believe that the fallout was beginning. 30 pairs of Taverniti jeans, “equivalent almost to “Within a year and a half, the premium denim market True Religion and larger than Diesel.” will implode,” said Chris Gilbert, president of Paper Denim, Brian Hogan, president of Modamood, New when he announced the brand’s repositioning. York, Replay’s wholesale distributor, said price Gilbert said he had seen a slowdown in the premium points have held and demand for Replay’s high- market on a national and international scale during the end line, We Are Replay, has grown. preceding six to eight months. “It’s the last part of the collection that gets The numbers have yet to back this up. Denim sales shipped, but it’s the fi rst that retails once it hits reached $15.26 billion for the 12 months through January, a stores,” Hogan said. 9.3 percent improvement over the $13.97 billion reported in He agreed that premium denim would reach the previous 12-month period and 17.7 percent better than a tipping point where newcomers are swept out the $12.97 billion in 2004, according to NPD Group, a Port of the market. Brands like Seven, True Religion, Washington, N.Y., research fi rm. and Diesel will be able to react and make it Although jeans priced between $20 and $39.99 represented through down times, he said, noting that larger the largest segment of the market, with sales of $6.37 billion, premium brands are innovating their styles. higher-priced jeans posted the largest growth. NPD said jeans Replay and Seven are moving toward cleaner, more tailored looks. “You’re going to see lateral moves from brands,” at $60 and above generated sales of $1.05 billion for the 12 Hogan said. “You’re going to see Replay, True months through January, or a 6.9 percent market share. During the same 12-month pe- Religion and Seven really clean things up and become a little more tailored.” riod a year ago, jeans priced above $60 generated sales of $761.4 million, or 5.4 percent Steve Opperman, founder of Iron Army Clothing, said the state of the premium of the denim market. market is a constant subject of conversation. Opperman views the rising competition True Religion Apparel is moving quickly to use its denim offerings as the basis as a positive, even for smaller brands such as Iron Army. for developing itself into a lifestyle brand. A focus on expanding its product array “It forces me and my partner to think,” Opperman said. “It’s making more people and developing global business has paid off. On March 15, the Los Angeles company think before they put something out. I think it makes people improve their product reported earnings of $19.5 million for 2005, a gain of 361.4 percent. Sales for the year and I’m excited about it, even if there’s a lot more brands.” ballooned 270.7 percent, to $102.5 million from $27.7 million. Opperman also values the fl exibility that being a smaller operation affords him. “This was driven by strong sales of our core denim line in men’s and women’s, and “We can be really responsive,” he added. “I’m not sitting on top of tons of inventory, an increasing component of nondenim sportswear,” Jeff Lubell, president and chief so we can turn on a dime.” Jackets Get Designer Touch at DIFFA Benefi t DALLAS — J.C. Penney isn’t known for high-ticket fashion, but it broke into the A design by Brian Bunch. upper strata Saturday when a jacket created by the chain’s design director, Geoffrey Henning, sold for $35,000 at the annual Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS auction here. The bidding for the Arizona brand denim jacket, which had been transformed into a fur- and crystal-trimmed full-length coat, was pumped up with extras, in- cluding a private party for 100 at the rooftop bar of the W Hotel opening here in June, along with a hotel stay, spa treatments, dinner and a $500 shopping spree. The entire package was donated by Victory Park, the mixed-use project where the hotel is located. The 17th annual DIFFA benefi t called on the talents of more than 100 design- ers and creative types to remake an Arizona jacket into a wearable work of art for auction. The results ranged from CeCe Cord’s demure denim and leather handbag to Brian Bunch’s Vegas-style costume festooned with a billowing bustle of purple, pink and green peacock feathers. The party, which had the theme “Live Laugh Love,” was intended to raise a record- breaking $1 million for AIDS service organizations in north Texas, though organizers said they didn’t know yet if their ambitions were realized. The soiree attracted 2,000 guests, along with hundreds of volunteers who staged a fashion show on a 450-foot runway. A highlight was a performance by Dallas na- tive Erykah Badu and her band. Emcee Rene Syler of CBS News’ “The Early Show’’ couldn’t resist stroking the crowd in a ballroom at the Wyndham Anatole Hotel. “I have been to fashion shows in New York and I’ll tell you what, nothing com- pares to this,” Syler said. Geoffery Henning’s design drew Erykah Badu $35,000 at auction. PHOTOS BY RANDY YARBROUGH RANDY PHOTOS BY — Holly Haber WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 9 WWD.COM The Beat Shecky’s Shop: A Rotating Menu of Designers By Sharon Edelson Hoffman, who hopes the lifestyle media compa- ny can leverage readers into retail customers. NEW YORK – Shecky’s Shop in SoHo is hardly “We reach hundreds of thousands of read- a typical store. ers with our guides to New York, our bar The assortment isn’t the vision of one per- guides and our Web site,” he said, noting that son, nor is it merchandised by a team. Rather, Shecky’s Media had total sales of $5 million the store at 489 Broome Street leases fl oor last year. “Events are another platform. We space and display cases to a variety of vendors. bring readers the hottest clothing, accessories Chris Hoffman, a former derivatives trader and bars. We’re a resource in New York.” who founded Shecky’s Media in 2001, invoked After seeing the success of Shecky’s Girl’s the business model of Fred Segal, the California Night Out shopping parties, launched in 2001, retail empire built on rented departments, when Hoffman thought a store might be viable. The he described the inspiration for the store. shopping events at the Puck Building here The concept of leasing space to different — similar parties are held in Boston, Chicago, resources has met with mixed success here. San Francisco and Atlanta — attract about 6,000 Emerge NYC took a similar approach when women, a raucous bunch that’s been treated to it opened in August on Bleecker Street. It has fi ve hours of free cocktails. An event this month since regrouped and is now called Edge NY at the Puck Building advertised more than 100 NoHo and offers mainly jewelry. designers at as much as 75 percent off, giveaways, Shecky’s has a do-it-yourself feel with topaz goodie bags and beauty services. Admission was Individual designers glass shelves perched on birch branches. A scrim $35 paid in advance or $45 at the door. rent space at Shecky’s. of red fabric divides the store into three sections. Chan, who also oversees the selection of The 10,000-square-foot two-level space feels designers for Girl’s Night Out, said Shecky’s sparsely populated with only about 40 designers in residence, Shop has higher standards. “Girl’s Night Out is more liberal in but it’s easy to imagine how Shecky’s could take on the atmo- Claudia Chan and accepting designers,” she explained, noting that there will be sphere of a Middle Eastern bazaar once the store gets fi lled. Chris Hoffman about 5 percent overlap between the two venues. Designers pay That would be fi ne with Claudia Chan, Shecky’s president, a fl at fee to be included in Girl’s Night Out. “They do it to get who wants consumers to experience a sense of discovery when rid of extra inventory and get their name out,” Hoffman said. they come across an unknown designer. Chan looks for “fresh “The whole point of the store is that it’s a turn-key store for faces in fashion and hard-to-fi nd designers from Los Angeles, young designers,” Hoffman said. “They walk in with merchan- London and Brazil,” she said. An example is Jody Singleton, a dise. We have salespeople and insurance.” jewelry designer. “She has a distinct, nonconventional style,” Chan, who pegs Shecky’s customers as trendsetting women Chan said of the hand-stitched leather jewelry and accessories. between 21 and 45 years old, believes they’ll respond to Before renting space, prospective vendors must be approved by E.vil T-shirts emblazoned with messages such as “Little Miss Chan, Shecky’s Shop’s style gatekeeper. Although Chan has the fi nal Golddigger” and Daveese Couture’s dresses made of linen, word, the store, by virtue of the number of designers it houses, can seem like a hodgepodge. leather and lace ($150 to $400). “There’s a whole application process,” she said. “At minimum they have to be here “Some designers we discovered on the street,” Chan said. “We look for signature for three months. If they’re successful, they can stay longer. Every month or two, we’ll accents.” rotate new designers into the store.” Hoffman isn’t too worried about the current business model not taking hold. Shecky’s is projecting about $2 million in sales for the main fl oor in the fi rst year, said “We might decide we want to operate more like a traditional retailer,” he said. Fashion Showcase Set for Brooklyn By Melanie Kletter NEW YORK — Brooklyn has become a haven for budding designers, and now the borough will have its fi rst fashion weekend, a three- day event to spotlight local talent. Planned for May 5-7 in a former ware- house in the DUMBO neighborhood, the event was conceived and organized by BK Style Foundation, a two-year-old nonprofi t created to nurture the talent of Brooklyn youths who want careers in fashion. “There is so much fashion happening now in Brooklyn, and we wanted to do something to showcase all the talent here,” said Rick Davy, co-founder of BK Style Foundation. Cybele Sandy, the other co-founder, said, “We want to give Brooklyn designers the support and opportunities that designers in Manhattan have.” About 17 designers have signed on to show their creations, including Zulema Griffi n, who was a contestant on the most re- cent edition of “Project Runway.” The group is still looking at portfolios and may add more designers to the mix, Sandy said. Zulema Griffi n of BK Style Foundation will provide models “Project Runway” and hair and makeup services, as well as all will show her production services. It has set up a Web site, wares at the BK at bkfashionwkend.com with information. fashion weekend. The invitation-only shows will be in the evening to take advantage of the scenic surroundings. The venue, Empire Fulton Park’s Tobacco Warehouse, is at New Dock and Water Streets in the area between the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. “There is so much undiscovered talent in Brooklyn, and not everything happens on the island of Manhattan,” said Griffi n, who was born in Brooklyn and now lives in Manhattan’s East Village. Griffi n said she plans to show about 18 looks on the runway, including jackets and ready-to-wear, as well as a few sportswear items such as jeans and T-shirts. “I am launching a collection and I thought would be a great way to introduce it,” she said. “I am looking for backers.” Davy said the group is seeking sponsors to defray costs. The New York Water Taxi, a sponsor, will ferry people from Manhattan to the Fulton Ferry Landing in DUMBO. Another sponsor, Two Trees Management, will hold a kickoff cocktail party for participants on May 4. In addition to the runway, there will be performances by local musicians before the shows, which are scheduled to begin at 7:30 p.m. SHECKY’S SHOP PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN ; GRIFFIN PHOTO BY JEMAL COUNTESS/WIREIMAGE ERICKSEN ; GRIFFIN PHOTO BY KYLE SHOP PHOTOS BY SHECKY’S 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 WWD.COM Active Lifestyle Style Serve for Sharapova

NEW YORK — When Maria Sharapova steps out at the Nasdaq Open tennis tournament in Miami on Maria Sharapova in Friday, she will unveil her latest fashion statement: her new Nike outfi t. a bold, black-and-white corset top and black skirt taken from Nike’s spring fi tness dance collection. “Maria asked Nike designers to adapt two key pieces from the collection for her on-court com- petitions, a fi rst for her, as she typically prefers to play in a dress,” said Mindy Grossman, Nike’s global vice president of apparel. “Fitness dance is a category that takes styling from the street and Ice-skaters model styles from the new the catwalk. Dancers then individualize and cus- Adidas by Stella McCartney collection. tomize how they want to wear the pieces.” The look also hits on a key fashion trend for spring, as black-and-white looks are just begin- ning to hit stores. Sharapova, now fourth in World Tennis Stella Hits the Slopes Association rankings, beat Elena Dementieva on Saturday to win the Pacifi c Life Open match By Sari Anne Tuschman in Indian Wells, Calif., her fi rst victory since last June, when she took the DFS Classic in ASPEN, Colo. — Stella McCartney presented her new fall line Birmingham, England. The 18-year-old fashion of Adidas by Stella McCartney here Monday, merging her signa- maven is known to fl aunt her style on court with ture feminine silhouettes and attention to detail with Adidas’ bold, colorful and often body-hugging looks. technology. Consumers who want to mimic her style can pur- Ice-skaters wearing the new looks spun and twirled around chase the outfi t at the Nasdaq retail tent, and simi- a small ice-skating rink as reporters huddled outside the Elk lar designs are available at Niketown stores and at Mountain Lodge in the remote Castle Creek Valley to view the nikewoman.com Web site, Grossman noted. McCartney’s fi rst foray into skiwear. Huskies pulled a sled with In the last few years, Nike has been working a young woman in it across the snow, skiers and snowboarders to elevate its women’s business around the world fl ew down a man-made hill and women walked and jogged in with a wider selection of products and a dedicated team of designers and merchants. As part of this effort, the snow. They all wore chic yet functional winter styles that Nike has also been opening NikeWomen shops, adding women’s-specifi c environments to its Niketown epitomize the collaboration between Adidas and McCartney. formats and adding catalogues specifi cally for women, as well as a Web site, nikewomen.com. “I’ve been desperate to get some chic-looking skiwear,” said Nike has also introduced more fashionable pieces, and this season the company introduced shrugs McCartney, who skis and snowboards. “I think it’s been missing. and layered tank tops in performance fabrics. I’ve gone to buy ski clothes, and I’ve found it really diffi cult to fi nd Grossman said Nike will unveil a new performance technology, MacroReact, in Sharapova’s looks for something I wanted to wear. Everything was always badly cut, and the U.S. Open in September, although she declined to reveal details. She also said Nike is developing the fi t was appalling. I don’t want high-tech sports bras and support products that will launch later this year. to look like a man when I’m ski- — Melanie Kletter ing. Something about it was al- ways quite wrong to me.” McCartney’s solution to that is ski pants and jackets in muted shades of rosewood, dark bone, dark chocolate and dusty rose. Key pieces from the line include a soft-shell jacket, a full-piece ski jumpsuit and a padded ski coat with a removable fl eece vest, all featuring details such as pock- ets for MP3 players, cell phones, goggles and money, as well as ski- pass and lipstick holders. McCartney also pointed to her version of the moon boot Skiwear is being as another signature item. This launched for fall. two-in-one shoe has a booty in- side the water-repellent shell that may be removed and worn by itself for après-ski footwear. The designer said she chose Aspen for the launch because it “encapsulates the whole winter sports thing. I think of it as a very chic place…a romantic place.” Skiwear has become more feminine and fashionable, and design houses such as Emilio Pucci and Paul Smith have gotten into the category. In addition to the new ski looks, the collection also features more styles for the gym, running and tennis. The prices for the fall collection range from about $55 to $800, and it carries more higher- priced items than in the past. Globally, Adidas by Stella McCartney is in about 450 doors, with an estimated 100 of those in the U.S., including Nordstrom and Adidas sport performance stores. “You see a lot of collaborations in the industry between brands and designers, but I don’t think they have the same vi- sion Stella had for what we wanted to do,” Bill Sweeney, head of Adidas global apparel, said in a fi reside chat after the pre- sentation of the line. “And certainly, I don’t think they had the same commitment in terms of a long-term partnership. This is a serious commitment that takes us right though 2010.” Sweeney was referring to the company’s contract extension with McCartney announced this week. The collection had fi rst- year sales of about $15 million, industry experts said. Sweeney said he anticipated that sales of this year’s fall line would double compared with last year. “It’s really not about hitting the numbers,” he said. “We could probably sell 50 or 60 percent more in 2006 if we really wanted to, but at this point it’s more a case of keeping it in the right place, keeping it under control and keeping it well man- aged. This was never about making as much money as we can. It was about brand image and creating something different.” The Aspen event also introduced 19-year-old Russian tennis player Maria Kirilenko as the face of the line. She was dressed in head-to-toe Stella McCartney and said she gives McCartney and the design team input on some of the styles and cuts, telling them what she feels most comfortable in when playing. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 11 WWD.COM T-shirt Report

of the Cynthia Steffe’s silk chiffon To p Class blouse. Top off your look this season. Designers are offering an array of Minx’s bold blouses and sweaters, mostly rayon, wool cropped in the sleeves and and silk top. waist, or with strong accents like pom-poms, bows and appliqués.

A. cheng’s wool and angora top.

Tamsen’s silk blouse.

Park Vogel’s cashmere sweater.

Joseph A.’s rayon and Lycra sweater.

Betsey Johnson’s silk blouse.

Charlotte Ronson’s cashmere sweater.

Wyeth by Todd Magill’s merino wool sweater.

Sarah Feinberg’s nylon and silk mesh top. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY 12 SOURCE: NAIGLOBAL’S 2006GLOBAL MARKET REPORT; FORADDITIONALSTATISTICAL DATAWWD.COM ONDOMESTICMARKETS,GOTO The 10 Shopping the Globe the Shopping quoted rentspersquarefoot. The mostexpensive downtownretailmarkets worldwide ranked byhighest WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH23,2006 8 6 9 4 7 5 3 2 1 WWD upscale shoppingstreet,whereGucci,LouisVuitton, andChanelallhavestores. Armani highonthesepedestrianstreets,mainly due totheirprimelocationintheheartof Vienna.very TheKohlmarkt isstillconsid of capitalcityVienna focusesaround three majorstreets:theKohlmarkt, Retaildem StraseandGraben (seenatleft). Karntner High-en overalleconomic struggles. According toNAIGlobal,retailsalesinAustria haveremainedstrongdespitethecountry’s Rent: VIENNA am talkingaboutShanghaiandSingapore,”shesaid. InJanuary, GapInc.announcedexpansionplansintotheregion,aswe is nowexperiencingincreaseddemand.In2005,DianevonFurstenberg talkedofpotentiallocationsforfuturestores.“Iamtal Privateretailersaresittingupandtakingnote, recently announcedplanstospend$40millionon thestreet’stransformation. Asia.” Singapore’sOrchardRoadwillsoonbecomeoneofthepremiereshopping streetsintheworld,thankstoSingaporeang WWD saidWednesday thatSingapore’s “strongeconomyandwideexposuretoWestern brandshavemadethecity-stateashoppinghub Rent: SINGAPORE the fi specialty shops,suchasVictoria store,arefound.Whenitopenedin1892,the &Albert Antiques andtheRoxGems&Jewellery with leadingbrandsexpertSimonAnholt.Oneofthemostmagnifi garded citiesintheworld,statingthatits“brand”imagewasoneofhighest,accordingtoastudyconductedbyGlobalMar Sydney isinthemidstofaretailboom,according totheAustralian Property Institute.AndinJanuary, WWDprofi Rent: SYDNEY and shoppingcentersareonlylogical. GaleriesLafayetteisthelargestdepartmentstoreinFrance andinEurope.Itsbeautifu With high-endfashionbrandssuchasLouisVuitton, YvesSaintLaurentandChanelhaving headquarters inthismarket,expensive Rent: PARIS Couture alsoisseekingasiteintheBritishcapital. always beenamagnetforretailbrands,andit’sjustoneofthecitiesthathascited as alikelytargetfornewBalenc cards afashionworkoutatnearbyCartier, HugoBoss,Tiffany&Co.andZara,”allofwhichhavestoreselsewhereinthecitya crowd.Andtheyareeagertogi womenandmenstrollingthroughthesquare are analtogetherhipperandmoreinternational “The togrowthinemployment,accordingNAIGlobal.WWDreported Tuesdayreturn thatLondon’sSloaneSquareisinthemidstofa attackslastyear,Though CentralLondonisstillrecovering from theterrorist theretailmarketisshowingapositiveoutlook Rent: LONDON 10.3 percentmoreonapparelinDecemberthantheydid the previousyear, WWDreportedinFebruary. in itsreportthatlandlordshavebeenfavoringsmallerfashionabletenants.Consumerdemand forfashionisbooming:Shoppers i in thecity, includinganewoneinTheLandmark,whichalsoincludestenantssuchasDior, Nichols,GucciandFendi. Harvey N “Hong Kong istheNewYork andchiefexecutiveofLouisVuitton, ofAsia,”YvesCarcelle,chairman toldWWDScoop.Vuitton hass Hong Kong ofhigh isundergoingyetanotherretailboom,soit’sperhaps notsurprisingthatitshouldranknumberoneinterms Highest quotedrentpersquarefoot: HONG KONG This June,Paris-based inSeoul, whilePradaworkstoopenits secondlocation MaisonHermès planstoopenaseven-story Hermès Rent: SEOUL Avenue. NAIGlobalmadenoteofsomethelargerretaildealsin2005, includingEquinox’spurchase of38,000squarefeetin near 57thStreetinMidtown.WWDreported inFebruary thatBulgariisredesigningandexpandingits 14,000-square-foot,three-s including Harlem,theLowerEastSideandMidtownnearColumbusCircle.Thehighest rentsarefoundalong Madison andFifth Ave Though alleyesremainontheredevelopmentofWorld Trade Centersite,anumberofManhattan’s districtshavewitnessedre Rent: MANHATTAN shoppingstreetandboastssomeofthemostupscalestores,such asBrownTho isconsideredtobeDublin’sprimary (seen left), Omni Park andBlanchardstownShoppingCentresareslatedtoincrease their retailspace signifi economy, ShoppingCentre, withanchorsthatincludeH&M,Tesco and2005witnessedthecompletionofDundrum andtheHouseofFr culturalvaluealoneofthedowntown regionishigh.”Therealestatemarketherehaslongbeenconsideredadrivi Global. “The “Dublin isaclassicexampleofsmall,limitedmarketwithdowntownsettingthat more of a shoppingvillage,really,” sa Rent: DUBLIN of thesestorespossibly couldcloseduring2006. dominate,withmorethan70percent oftotalmarket share. However, currently stores anddiscounthypermarkets, NAIGlobalpred inparticular,hypermarkets, 150,000persons.”Storeswithmuchlargerforma exceededthetargetlevelof one storefor[every] thatKoreain 2005).NAIGlobalreportedthat“thereis a concern mayhavemoreretailthanthepopulationcanreasonably suppo in theneighborhood,andH&M’srapidstore expansion acrossthecity. the Paris region. retailmarketfelttheeffectsoflowerlevelstourismin2005,plansareunderwaytoupgradeordevelopanumbe the city’s designer,located onBoulevardHaussmann,iscrownedbyastained-glassdome.Thestorecarries brandnameandprivatelabelme Well-known shoppingspotsnearRedSquareinclude GUM(thestatedepartmentstore)andtheOkhotnyRyad shoppingcenter(seenl the mostinterestingpeoplehere,getfeelinganduseitinLouisVuitton clothesandaccessories,” hetoldWWD.Vuitton ha goal:“togetacquaintedwiththelocalculture,history,also traveledtothecityinDecemberwithone primary religion,trad showinMoscowlatelast intoopenstoresthenation’scapital.OscardelaRenta sentrepresentativesforatrunk rushing Retail spaceisinhighdemandthesedays Moscow, according toNAIGlobal.Aswealthcontinues togrowinRussia, moreandm Rent: MOSCOW fth andthelast onetobebuiltinVictorianfth Sydney. Today itistheonlyoneremaininginitsoriginalform. $880 $310 List $313 $326 $435 $885 $289 $290 $418 $1,161 — Cecily Hall —CecilyHall excluding spaceinenclosedmalls.” retail” isdefi rising Asianmarkets,suchasHongKong andSeoul,”hesaid.“Downtown streets inEurope thatarenowbeingtranscendedbythenewer, rapidly markets intothetop10.“You’ve gottheseoldworld,beautifuldowntown Global presidentandchiefoperating offi — ranksinthetop10.What’smoreimportant,notedJeffreyFinn, NAI of commercialrealestatefi expensive retailrents.Princeton,N.J.-basedNAIGlobal,aleadingnetwork The NewWorld isencroaching ontheOldWorld intermsofthemost cent shopping destinations is the historical Strand Arcade (at left), where unique whereunique cent shopping destinationsisthehistoricalStrandArcade(atleft), ned byNAIGlobalas“anyretailspaceinthedowntownarea, rms, foundthatonlyoneU.S.area—Manhattan cantly over the next couple of years. Grafton Street Street cantly overthenextcoupleofyears.Grafton cer, isthemovementofAsian led itasoneof themostwell-re- iaga boutique, while Juicy iaga boutique,whileJuicy year, whileMarcJacobs r of shopping centers in r ofshopping centersin itional crafts, to talk to totalk itional crafts, id JeffreyFinn ofNAI andprimeretailspace s twostoresinthecity. ts, such as department ts, suchasdepartment ket Institute, together ket Institute,together SoHo foritsfi AI Global pointed out AI Globalpointedout for2006,drivenbya king about Munich, I king aboutMunich,I ng factorof theIrish l fl d retail in the center d retailinthecenter mas andJigsaw. ered to be the most ered tobethe most rt, as the number of rt, asthenumberof n HongKong spent Strand Arcade was Strand Arcadewas s well.Londonhas agship (seen left), agship (seenleft), rchandise. Though rchandise. Though tory shop on Fifth shop onFifth tory and and rents are and rentsare overnment, which which overnment, ll. tail revitalization, tail revitalization, est quoted rents. est quotedrents. (itsfi major makeover: major makeover: rents for shops rentsfor shops icted thatsome ix major stores ix majorstores nues, primarily nues, primarily ore brandsare ve theircredit in Southeast inSoutheast eft). rst went up rst wentup aser. Both rst gym WWD.COM WWD.COM

HONG KONG PHOTO BY H. SITTON/ZEFA/CORBIS; LONDON BY PAWEL LIBERA/CORBIS; PARIS BY CARL & ANN PURCELL/CORBIS; SYDNEY BY FREE AGENTS LIMITED/CORBIS; MOSCOW BY JOSE FUSTE RAGA/ ZEFA/CORBIS; SINGAPORE BY DANIEL ZHENG/CORBIS; VIENNA BY TIBOR BOGNR/CORBIS; DUBLIN BY RICHARD CUMMINS/CORBIS; NEW YORK BY DAVID ZIMMERMAN/CORBIS; SEOUL BY SETBOUN/CORBIS

14 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006

EDGE*nyNOHO SENIOR FOR EMERGING DESIGNERS A STORE LIKE NO OTHER SPORTSWEAR Have your own selling space at 65 Bleeker Street. Street Level, prime retail location. (Between Broadway & DESIGNER Lafayette). Sell your designs directly to your customer from this unique Major women’s moderate department store created for emerging updated sportswear co. is designers. We are looking for unique womenswear & menswear designers, seeking a talented designer hat designers, beauty product designers, with 5-7 yrs. exp. Candidate eyewear designers, pet products, and will be designing for a major much more. For more info please visit our website www.edgeny.com or call The highly anticipated launch of this Junior / Contemporary public updated co. Must Alex or Dede at 212-358-0255. Sportswear line requires the exceptional talents of the following: have a strong background in 10,000 sf Open Space updated wovens and knits Minutes from Lincoln/Holland Tunnels SENIOR DESIGNER for pants, skirts and jackets Jersey City Heights/Quiet bldg/Low price with a strong knowledge of Ideal for storage, shipping, office, or mfg. Candidates must be cutting edge, trend savvy, innovative and prints and fabrics. Must be Will subdivide Call: 201-222-1931 able to design/direct from initial concept through production. able to shop stores for the 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. Must have extensive knowledge of wovens, denim, knits and newest trends and have an High ceilings - Excellent Condition NJ Based Children’s Stores Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 trim. Minimum 5 years experience in the junior/contemporary understanding of development Search www.manhattanrealty.com time lines. Position based in • Premium Apparel Brands market. Highly organized and fast paced. Technical skills • Growing Private Label Boston with frequent travel For Space in Garment Center include CAD, PDM, Illustrator / Photoshop, flat sketching and Helmsley-Spear, Inc. • Profitable Concept to New York. • $2M Annual Sales presentations. Excellent Salary And Benefits 212-880-0414 E-Mail or Fax Resume Call: 917-603-1834 ASSISTANT DESIGNER [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts Email: [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS 617-332-3260 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Highly organized, self-motivated with good work ethic. Must ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 have strong sketching and specs, knowledge of garment con- struction. Team player with excellent communication skills. Photoshop / Illustrator. Web PDM a plus. Paco Jeans ADMIN/SALES TECHNICAL DESIGNER (2) ASST/FRONT DESK Wanted: Graphic Artist Accessory Co. seeks reliable, persona- DENIM BOTTOMS & WOVEN TOPS / Junior’s Jeans/Tops ble, multi-tasked individual to work in KNITS - C & S AND SWEATERS Style Cads/Artwork quick paced atmosphere. Good com- puter skills in Word, Excel and E-mail. Knowledge of pattern, measuring, construction and fit. Illus- Must Know Mac Illustrator Resp. for phones, corresp. & gen. Must show portfolio office duties. Fax resume: 212-302-2753 trator / Outlook / Excel a must. Daily communication with Please Email resumes: overseas vendors. Interaction with design, merchants and ART DIR - KIDS LIC PLAYW’R OPEN $ [email protected] Large company seeks experienced production teams. Web PDM a plus. manager for busy art department A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. Please fax resume to: (631) 514-3131 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 (Please indicate on cover letter the job you are applying for.) ARTISTS/DESIGNERS Excellent Opportunity in Central New Jersey. Art Department seeks F/T Outdoor & Humor Artist for trendy Men’s T-shirt lines. Must have 530 7th AVE SHOWROOM Photoshop/Illustrator & MAC experience. Corner showroom facing 7th Ave. full Strong typography skills & apparel exp. windows, about 3500 s/f. Contact: a plus. Great creative group environment. 917-886-7648 or 212-391-1636. New Jersey applicants ONLY! Email SHOWROOM & OFFICE AVAILABLE or fax resume with 3 samples to: Prime NYC Space. Accessory designer [email protected] has a private showroom w/ windows Fax: 732-280-6190 SALES ASSISTANT for sublet available with compatible fit. Established sportswear company seeks Contact: 212-465-9247 Sales Asst. that is friendly, organized, Assistant Buyers & motivated & a team player. Must have PRODUCTION ASSISTANT an excellent communication & follow Visual Merchandisers Hydraulic jeans seeks motivated and Long Island based jean stores seeks up skills, computer literate. Familiar detail oriented person to assist production with AIMS a plus. Friendly environment. Visual Merchandisers with a min. of 2 mgr. Duties include involvement in yrs. exp. & Assistant Buyers with a min. Competitive salary & benefits. all phases of garment production from Please fax resume to: (212) 221-3622 of 2 yrs. exp. in the Jr. contemporary mkt. initial order to final delivery and com- Well established & growing Fax resume & refs. to: (516) 742-4720, munication with factories. Strong com- attn. Jimmy or leave a message @ puter skills a must. Great Opportunity! (516) 742-2999 ext. 10 SALES ASSISTANT Bridal/Eveningwear Company Fax resume to HR @ 212-719-1521 Growing Junior/Missy Denim co seeks located in central Florida sales asst who is highly organized, ASSISTANT DESIGNER detailed oriented & computer literate. Local & International Clients Experienced in eveningwear. Production Assistant Wal-Mart exp preferred but willing to Import experience a plus. Leading Apparel Importer seeks train. Opportunity for growth. Excel- Growing 17 to 20 percent a Computer literate. Organized, self starter. experienced, detail oriented individual lent benefits. Send resume to : year see info and pics @ Please Fax resume to: (212) 302-9325 for fast paced NY office. Duties include [email protected] assisting pre-production manager, www.floridacapital.com follow-up fabric and garment purchasing, Agent, 941-924-2378 BOYS DESIGNER $75K writing PO’s, follow-up with overseas SEWERS BOYS ASST DESIGNER $40K factories, and color submissions to Woman’s couture company seeks highly Wal-Mart. Strong communication and skilled exp’d individual. Knowledge of all Sizes 8-20. Activewear/Sportswear computer skills a must. Fax resume [email protected] or 212-947-3400 types of fabrics emphasis on evening. with salary requirements to: Cutting a plus . Call 212-869-2296 Mark Rubin at (212)444-6019 Data Entry Position Apparel wholesale company is seeking SEWING someone to enter orders, process billing Production and assist in customer service. Should Designer collection seeks experienced INSTRUCTION WRITER be familiar with AS400 system & EDI. technical production person to coordinate Simplicity Patterns seeks sewing Please fax resume to: (212) 575-2214 over seas production. Must be organized, instruction writer w/ education / back- detail oriented, be able to multi task & ground in garment, craft and home dec PATTERN/SAMPLES ** DESIGNER ASSIST - L.A. ** have knowledge of garment construction. sewing. Must be able to write technical Must live in L.A. area $40-45K Please, fax resume to: 212 563 6215. step by step instructions for patterns on Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast site in our NYC office. Home Econom- work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Tween/Jr. Denim Illustrator/Photoshop Call (212) 643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127(agcy) ics Degree or comparable exp desirable. Knowledge of sewing req’d & computer PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Production Manager knowledge helpful. Excellent benefits. Designer First Patternmaker Merchandisier/Designer KNIT PRIVATE LABEL Send resume to: Simplicity Pattern Co., PRODUCTIONS Better priced womenswear manufacturer Fast paced womenswear manufacturer Seeking talented individual with 5 years 2 Park Ave, 12th Fl, NY, NY 10016, Attn: seeks first patternmaker experienced Minimum ten years experience in all All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. seeks sportswear designer with min 2 minimum experience for Jr. Knit/Woven phases of knit sportswear production. HR or email: [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. years exp. designing collections for in both sportswear and dresses. Must Importer. Must follow up on samples. be able to drape and flat pattern min 2 Work with sales team / factories from department stores. Background in CAD ability a plus. Fax: 212-302-7732 costing thru shipping. Establish labor contemporary market at big plus. Must designs a day. Experience in contemp- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, orary market a big plus. price and follow up shipping. Respon- SPECH TECH be able to run a sample room and work sible for construction & quality control. Fax resume to 212-382-0237. Major NY based better dress & suit PRODUCTIONS with patternmakers. Great opportunity Computer literate. Please fax resume manufacturer seeks exp’d technician Full service shop to the trade. for growth. Salary commensurate with Fit Model (Size 6) Prod’n Coord. / Asst. to Karen 212-947-7218. to support its pattern making & Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. experience. production teams. Responsibilities Fax resume to 212-382-0237. Professional fit model needed for new Forward sportswear co. seeks an ex- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD contemporary women’s line. Only de- tremely organized, hard working indi- include attend fittings, take accurate signer size 6, 34x26x34, h:5’7-5’8 need vidual used to working in a fast paced Production Manager fit notes, work w/ pattern makers, prepare High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- environment. Responsibilities include Men’s Apparel Importer seeks exp’d, construction details specs & communicate sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 DESIGNER apply. Flexible schedule a must. Fax info to: 212-564-6651 tracking work in progress, scheduling detail oriented person to manage pro- w/ overseas factories on various technical Est’d. Special Occasion Dress Co. seeks production, keeping accurate records, duction for several large accounts. issues. Must be a team player, computer innovative and creative Designer with & communicating w/ overseas factories. Past JCP experience is a plus. Involve- literate on e-mail & excel, and ability knowledge of current trends, colors, GARMENT CENTRAL Attention to detail is a must. 3-5 years ment in all phases of garment produc- to work in a fast paced environment. and fabrics. Must have background in - IMMEDIATE OPENINGS - exp. Position is located in North Bergen, tion from initial order to final delivery. Dress exp a plus. Excellent opportunity. Missy or Jr. Special Occasion. Please 1. SENIOR DESIGNER NJ. Excellent growth potential, bene- Fax Resume to Gina: 212-268-0884 Benefits/401K. Fax in confidence with E-mail resumes in confidence to: 2. SALES EXECUTIVES fits, salary commensurate with exp. salary requirements to HR: (201)964 5892 [email protected] Jr. & Plus mfr. of sportswear & Please email resume to: dresses. Excellent opportunity to [email protected] join successful growing company. Receptionist/Gal/Guy Friday Designer - Merchandising [email protected] Manufacturer of Women’s Sportswear Sweater Tech Designer Jr/Contemporary Sweater /Outerwear or Fax: (212) 869-1525 seeks energetic self motivated person Branded womenswear manufacturer Co seeks exp’d designer for imports. who wants to learn the business from seeks sweater tech designer with min Must be team player w/ fresh ideas for Production Assistant the inside. Person should possess good 2 yrs import exp. Must be able to flat the Jr. market. Knowledge of sweat- Import Coord to $60K. Current exp in Entry-level position available for interpersonal skills, be organized and sketch, have technical knowledge of ers, flat sketching & proto specs req’d. compliance with U.S. customs regs. ladies apparel tops production. dependable. Besides answering phones sweater yarns, stitches, and graphing. Good benefits. Excellent work envi- Classify garments under HTSUS. Computer literate a must; including and greeting people, person will help Background in contemporary market a ronment. Email resume attn: Dora Harmonize tariff scheds of U.S. Excel. Fax/Email resume: 212-768-7856 with sales and design dept’s as well. big plus. [email protected] / fax 212-398-2087 customs regs. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY [email protected] Please fax Resume to 212-239-7332 Fax resume to 212-382-0237. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 15 WWD.COM Dates in Flux at Milan Trade Fair Musani By Stephanie Epiro ents with its mix of styles that included oversized wool cardigans in cream trimmed with fox collars, embroidered and ribbon-decorated MILAN — An earlier date did not boost visitor numbers at folk-inspired long skirts and red fox-trimmed bolero jackets to go MilanoVendeModa as its organizers had hoped, though most over silk dresses. Flavio Nava, Tricot Chic’s general manager, said executives exhibiting reported increased sales. though the stand received many Italian visitors and lots of orders, he The event at the Milan fairgrounds, which ran Feb. 10-13 wasn’t completely satisfi ed with the quality of the shops the visitors — two weeks earlier than usually scheduled so it would be at represented. the start of the European trade fair season — attracted 252 “It’s a shame, but we do get a lot more international visitors of exhibitors, down slightly from last edi- higher quality in other European fairs, like tion’s 274. Visitor numbers also fell to Jackpot Bread and Butter in Barcelona. It could be re- 8,000, down from 9,149 at the February ally interesting for Milan to combine all of the 2005 edition. rtw fairs, just as the Italian textile fairs have Despite the drop in buyer numbers, been combined,” said Nava. most vendors were enthusiastic about A newcomers to MVM, Danish rtw brand orders garnered at the fair. Jackpot decided to come to the fair for the “I was skeptical about the new dates fi rst time to continue building in the Western and had little faith that we’d get buyers European market. A division of Copenhagen- coming, but I have to say we haven’t en- based IC Companys, the 32-year-old brand has joyed a fair as good as this in 10 years,” already established its presence in 23 coun- said Riccardo Collina, marketing di- tries, amassing sales of 70 million euros, or $84 rector of Italian ready-to-wear pro- million at current exchange, last year. Export ducer Ensemble by Camalgori, set up manager Heidi Svarre said after Jackpot en- in the so-called Light section of the fair. tered the Canadian market last year, it was Collina said more Japanese and Korean contemplating opening doors in the U.S. buyers visited his stand during MVM, Svarre said the brand had attracted many many armed with increased budgets to buyers at MVM because of its bright mix of buy fall-winter 2007 collections. garments — including a mustard crocheted an- Tricot Chic Emanuela Forlin, manager of MVM gora shawl, striped pom-pom trimmed scarves for organizer ExpoCTS, said the earlier and violet fl uted corduroy skirts. “People are dates would be reexamined for the next stopping because the trends here are predomi- edition. nately black and white,” said Svarre. “We will see if this anticipation Over in the Luxury section, Puglia, Italy- works well for our clients, but so far based ICA showed a line of ultrasophisticated we’ve had positive reactions,” Forlin outerwear from silver fox-collared cashmere said. She added there was also a pos- coats to bright yellow woolen jackets with sibility MVM would join with other matching yellow-dyed raccoon scarves. Sales Milanese rtw fairs White and Neozone. director Santino Nucci said the company had “Together, it could be a strong, comple- welcomed more Russian buyers at MVM. mentary fair and a good thing for the Also in Luxury, Musani presented a line of market, but nothing is confi rmed.” eveningwear utilizing printed silk chiffons and Sabrina Nespoli, European sales embroidery. Director Jack Musani said fash- manager for French brand Irene Van ion’s new obsession with sophistication had Ryb, said she hoped MVM would join helped sales for the brand. He cited an ivory with White as MVM sales had been dress with a full skirt trimmed with black lace slow for her company in the past few and ribbons as a bestseller. seasons. She said Van Ryb had started One retailer, Caterina Nordstrum, an owner to explore other, newer European fairs of QC, a luxury boutique located in Sweden, in an effort to acquire new clients. Van said, “We’ve been going to MilanoVendeModa Ryb’s collection features natural yarns and fabrics — includ- for the past couple of years to fi nd niche, interesting brands that ing printed graphic silk blouses, a wool and metal mix check aren’t sold already in Sweden. We sourced some great fur and leath- jacket and angora in petrol and mustard for knitwear. er coats there as well as eveningwear — which is becoming an im- In the Trend section, Tricot Chic wooed many Italian cli- portant division of our boutique.” PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTOS BY 16 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2006 WWD.COM Birds of a Feather Almost

“Do you like the bread? I baked it myself,” joked Cate Blanchett at a dinner Gucci hosted in her honor Monday at Country restaurant in New York. Famous The Australian actress, who’s coming to the end of her run in the title role of “Hedda Gabler” at the LOS ANGELES — Oh, the struggles of a Brooklyn Academy of Music, nearly lost her way starlet. “It’s challenging to fi nd the right among the maze of tables of googly eyed BAM fans and almost thing,” says Nora Zehetner, 25. “I hear a lot of headed into Country’s open kitchen. “I’m just going to check on ‘Oh, sorry, Scarlett is doing that’ or ‘Natalie the desserts,” she quipped. Portman got that part.’ It’s not usually up to Blanchett was toasted by husband Andrew Upton, who me.” That doesn’t mean she isn’t working adapted the play for his wife, and was joined by the likes of hard. Fans who are used to watching the Amanda and Chris Brooks and Kim Heirston. Next up for the busy doe-eyed waif play the good girl on The WB star is a return to London, although she’s been enjoying her New drama “Everwood” will fi nally get to see York life. “We’ve been living in Park Slope,” she said. “I love it. It’s her bad-girl side as she takes on the role New York as it used to be, with all the artists and writers around.” of Laura, the femme fatale, in the thriller Blanchett and the other members of the Sydney Theatre “Brick,” out Friday and also starring Joseph Company were making full use of their one night offstage — after Gordon-Levitt and Emilie de Ravin. Zehetner the four-course dinner, they all headed downtown to watch fellow recently dished to WWD on the perils and the cast member Justine Clark sing at the Living Room. perks of being on the verge. The following night in L.A., American-in-Paris designer Erin Fetherston’s fall 2006 show in Chateau Marmont’s sixth-fl oor penthouse WWD: Where are you from? got so crowded that chairs had to be set up in the hallway. The San Nora Zehetner: Dallas. I don’t have an accent Francisco-born, doll-like designer was reprising her Paris presentation anymore. of 22 Little Red Riding Hood-inspired dresses plus “Wendybird,” the Ellen von Unwerth-directed short starring her friend Kirsten Dunst. Although WWD: What’s up next? Dunst got stuck on the set of “Spiderman 3” and couldn’t be there to play N.Z.: I play the young Helena Bonham Carter hostess, Fetherston pressed on with help from pals China Chow, Winona Cate [character] in “Conversations With Other Ryder, Ariana Lambert Smeraldo, Amanda Goldberg and curious fashion- Blanchett Women.” It’s about a couple, played by she phile Kate Bosworth, who came with her stylist, Jessica Paster. in custom- and Aaron Eckhart, who remeet at a wedding. “Since we made the fi lm here, I thought it was only appropriate to made Gucci. You end up learning their history in the show it here, too,” said Fetherston. Despite a technical glitch that had course of one night. After that, I’m in the MTV the crowd sitting silently in the dark for a minute, the show was a hit. “I Films horror movie “Beneath.” China Chow may not be a 6-foot blonde Amazon like Erin, but I am in love with the in Erin clothes,” said Chow, who wore one of Fetherston’s samples with aplomb, WWD: Film or TV? Fetherston. noting, “It hits my knee, where it hits her mid-thigh!” N.Z.: Television can be amazing, but I love to Erin create new characters and Fetherston shed that skin and move in her own on to something else. design. WWD: How did you break into Hollywood? N.Z.: I had planned on going to college here, but the plan was to see if I could try the acting thing fi rst. After one month in Los Angeles, I did a commercial for AT&T, then got cast in my fi rst fi lm, “Tart.”

WWD: So you’ve had it easy? N.Z.: You think that everything is going to be easy and then you don’t work Amanda for six months. Brooks in a Gucci WWD: What do you dress do between jobs? Models dance, in their own clothes and and Tuleh N.Z.: Right now I’m taking Erin Fetherston hats, after the show. jacket. an art history class at Otis and a French class at the Beverly Hills Lingual Institute. I’m trying to be Spring break! We’re in Aspen — land of somewhat productive with nonstop skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing my time. OLORA and that other Olympic sport, shopping. Where C D , O else are the trapper hats white mink (J.Mendel) and N WWD: Do you have E Nora Zehetner the snow boots sable (Dennis Basso)? P anyone to keep you Friends are plentiful as pine trees: Day one on S company? Ajax, Tim cruised in knee-deep powder right into uber-art A N.Z.: I have a Chihuahua named Sophie and 6 director Doug Lloyd and photographer Kelly Klein; William 200 a 55-pound mutt named Duke. They are kind Lauder waving howdy overhead from the Silver Queen gondola; of an odd pair. Valesca Guerrand-Hermès après-ski outdoors at The Little Nell — course. Her instructor throws “pooper trooper” parachute dolls our home base. Yup, whole clans from New York are here — de from the lift and they ski-race down to fi nd them. Capture someone WWD: What about fashion? Guardiolas, Gwathmeys, Hovnanians — and this group recognizes else’s trooper? Bite off an arm or leg, then leave it in the snow. N.Z.: I really love everything, but I’m each other even disguised in Bolle goggles and Cloudveil parkas. Today a temple of dark wood and river rocks beckons — the bordering on classic and not things you are Eating is also a test of endurance. Toasted our wedding Remède Spa at the St. Regis. Post-massage, I’ll curl up fi reside going to look back at and go, “Oh that is soooo anniversary “on top of the world” with a cozy lunch at the Aspen on a leather chaise lounge and peacefully inhale a 30-minute 2006!” If I buy something expensive, it has to Mountain Club hosted by Dana Hammond, who’s building a oxygen treatment. And if that doesn’t prepare me for L.A., our be so timeless that I know I can get a lot of home nearby. The club’s buffet staggers — delicious king crab next stop, then nothing will! use out of it. legs, bison, an insane cheese plate and home-baked cookies and xo, pies. This led us right into dinner at a little blue farmhouse, i.e. WWD: What would you buy if you had Reese the local Matsuhisa. Last night we began at the Hotel Jerome’s Witherspoon’s salary? funky, Victorian J-Bar with burgers and pitchers of Fat Tire beer N.Z.: I loved the spring collection that and continued en masse to a club called Belly Up for Grateful Francisco Costa did for Calvin Klein — all Dead tunes via the Dark Star Orchestra. those pretty, fl irty dresses that were just Mornings are bright and early. Storey, 10, already a wicked classic and young and fun. And I’d buy Phoebe skier, won a bronze and a silver medal on the kids’ NASTAR slalom Philo and a little Burberry swing coat. — Marcy Medina

Editor’s Note: New York society fi xture Helen Schifter is traveling with her family out West — fi rst Aspen, then L.A. STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE ZEHETNER BY STEVE EICHNER; TYLER BOYE; L.A.SCHIFTER BY PHOTOS BY AND NEW YORK