Scout's Honor
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Most ExpensiveThe RetailInside: Areas Pg. 12 DIDDY’S CLOSURE/3 PREMIUM DENIM ROLLS ON/8 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 23, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Scout’s Honor LOS ANGELES — Go take a hike. For fall, junior designers are saluting Boy Scouts founder Robert Baden-Powell, working military details into shorts, jackets and tops in appropriately drab earth tones. Here, Roxy’s sweatshirt and bolero, Ogle’s T-shirt, and Element’s pants, all in cotton. Columbia hat and Holster belt. For more, see pages 6 and 7. The Selling of Jones: TPG, Cerberus Said Y MELISSA MAGSAYSAY Jockeying for Position By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — There’s a fresh “for sale” AGEMENT/KIEHL’S; STYLED B AGEMENT/KIEHL’S; sign hanging on Jones Apparel Group’s door, and two aggressive private equity firms seem to be the ones knocking the loudest. Although no bidding has occurred, Texas Pacific Group and Cerberus KEUP BY SONIA LEE/ARTISTS MAN SONIA LEE/ARTISTS KEUP BY Capital Management — which own, respectively, Neiman Marcus Group and Mervyns — already are said to be in discussions with Jones, according YAN/LA MODELS; HAIR AND MA YAN/LA to several investment bankers and some private equity contacts. Those talks could lead to either firm making a separate offer for Jones, owner of See Equity, Page 5 T GRIFFITH PARK, L.A.; MODEL: LENA BEDO T GRIFFITH PARK, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEREMY GOLDBERG A BY PHOTOGRAPHED WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Go exploring in fall’s Boy Scout-inspired gear, featuring shorts of all 6 lengths, camo prints, button-down shirts and cropped jackets. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Private equity fi rms Texas Pacifi c Group and Cerberus Capital 1 Management are said to be in sale discussions with Jones Apparel Group. SIZE MATTERS Gap Inc. said it plans to open 10 Forth & Towne stores in fi ve new areas: Plus Size Women are Finding More and More Options 3 Atlanta, Houston, Los Angeles, San Francisco/San Jose and Seattle. “You don’t have to be a size two to be a perfect U.S. Customs said it made 26 seizures of Chinese apparel and textile than was being offered at a less luxury-centered imports valued at $6 million that violated an agreement with China. ten” was the tagline for Curves, a 2002 documentary store,” says Chris Phillips, Vice President, 4 about the world of plus size modeling. The film put Divisional Merchandise for classic sportswear at DENIM: The expected downturn in the premium denim market hasn’t the spotlight on big beauty, the kind that so Saks Fifth Avenue’s Salon Z, which presents the 8 occurred and the jeans pyramid below it has maintained its strength. captivated Reubens and that is also capturing the department store’s plus-size brands. Currently, BEAT: Shecky’s Shop on Broome Street in SoHo isn’t a typical store attention of popular designers and Saks has about 50 stores and 9 — it leases fl oor space and display cases to a variety of vendors. brands. Indeed, over the past Salon Z is in 26 of them.” ACTIVE: Stella McCartney presented her new fall line of Adidas by Stella decade, the options for women Phillips elaborates on the 10 McCartney on Monday, using scenic Aspen as a backdrop. size 15 and greater has expanded; range of Salon Z, “We offer with recent entries focusing on primarily bridge selections from EYE contemporary designs. Ellen Tracy, Dana Buchman and Cate Blanchett was toasted by husband Andrew Upton and friends at a This has not always been the Layfayette148. We also have a 16 dinner in her honor at the Country restaurant hosted by Gucci. case. Years ago, Oscar de la Renta gold range, which is our entry was asked why he did not design point into designer collections Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................14-15 for larger women. He replied: “I’m with names like Rinaldo by To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. a designer; I don’t upholster sofas.” MaxMara and Steve Fabricant.” [email protected], using the individual’s name. He has since apologized for the Phillips admits, however, that he WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- remark, and 15 years ago launched would like to do more. “We’re still RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 62. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- his Oscar line for plus sizes. seeing a void of designer products ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- Such a turn-around in designer for plus-size women, but we are ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, thinking is more than a matter “I want the hip stuff. I don’t want working with our key partners in Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers you to sell me something just Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and of politeness or pity, it is a matter the market to offer more of a C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; of good business. According to because it’s made in a plus size.” designer mix.” David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle — Michelle Martinez, With such high-end entrants as Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Dulce Showroom Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Monitor™, 20% of the U.S. female Liz Claiborne Woman, Sak’s Salon Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. population is a size 15 or greater. More telling is the Z and Bloomingdale’s Shop for Women, has the 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS fact that this figure has remained relatively steady over mix and availability for plus-size fashions really CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, the past seven years. advanced over the past decade? Elisabeth’s Barry ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four A host of curvaceous celebrities have done their Zelman says yes. “The selection and availability is weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. part to make the ample woman sexy again. Think of light years from what it once was. Department stores Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other Queen Latifah at the Oscar’s in that fabulous Carmen have really done a great job and the entire fashion U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Marc Valvo gown; or Kirstie Allie coming out of her industry is taking this customer a lot more seriously.” and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions “Veronica’s Closet” in the hit “What’s important in and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To series “Fat Actress.” Jennifer Stability of Sizes 15+ regards to the growth of this subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Lopez is not a plus size, but Share Over Past Eight Years market is the shift towards interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise her much-ballyhooed booty has Avg. 22.66% more contemporary clothes us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- also contributed to a collective in the mix,” says Weston. SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- mindset that full-figured is preferable to empty. “While it’s very important to address the Baby ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, These days, plus-size women are finding more and Boomers, you also have to address the younger OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED more options. Though specialty stores such as Lane consumer.” This is sage advice considering that the Bryant and Avenue continue to supply their fashion highest growth in plus-size sportswear was from needs, today’s plus-size consumer can also choose women aged 20-24.