AROUND 107 Central Coast Park Kangaroo Valley Ku-ring-gai Chase National National Park Southern Highlands River Parramatta Hawkesbury Blue ( p136 ) Mountains Central Coast Central ( p131 ) Royal Royal ( p112 ) and ( p136 ) ( p111 ) ( p119 ) pub or Parramatta ( p114 ) on a houseboat p114 ( ( p135 ) Southern Highlands ( p109 ) Ku-ring-gai Chase Ku-ring-gai Blue Mountains and cake in the Harbour to historic Australian into the quintessentially Kangaroo Valley Brisbane Water National Parks Water Brisbane Art mists descend Deco café as ethereal bush in beaches and thick native National Park engravings in Hole up in a empty coves, Stumble across isolated of the the rippling reaches Traverse rock and Aboriginal Look for lyrebirds Soak up the colonial history with some tea along the length of Sydney Ride a RiverCat off the edge of Southern Highlands Fall Carve up the surf at the beaches along

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

The proximity of these delights to Sydney means that public transport a viable proximity is often The Occupying a hefty chunk of Sydney’s north, dense bush- Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park’s Around Sydney Around Sydney a broad coastal plain like spilt honey, hemmed in by rugged over Sydney’s suburbs spread larg- sustains ’s area The Ocean on the other. sides and the Pacific country on three inland. est concentration of people, the urban melange thinning as kilometres stretch Beyond the city, bushwalking and roads connect a tracks, cycling paths, scenic train routes uncrowded beaches and waterways, with gorgeous interspersed small-town smorgasbord, national parks. magical To a lot of ground on day trips, with or without your own wheels. option – you can cover Dividing Range rise to the lofty Blue Mountains, the west, wooded foothills of Great harbours To the south, Royal National Park scenery and quirky villages. with their heaven-sent Inland, fertile soils cliff-scapes. lost-to-the-world pockets and precipitous beaches, rainforest support the rural settlements of Macarthur Country and historic Macquarie towns, extending south to the dignified Southern Highlands. north, the landscape is Further cut by shimmering inlets. land and sandstone outcrops are crossings, defined by the meandering brown snake with its ferry of the Hawkesbury River, the inland lakes and surf-centric are Beyond here communi- farms and sleepy towns. oyster Coast. ties of the Central www.lonelyplanet.com

© Lonely Planet Publications 106 AROUND SYDNEY 108 0 20 km AROUND SYDNEY 0 12 miles RUDSDE AROUND SYDNEY Spencer 1 Brisbane Water To Singleton Lower Woy (143km); The Portland To Singleton (152km) National ὈὈὈὈὈὈRiver ὈPark WoyὈ Hunter Valley Wollemi To Bouddi National (5km); National Park (12km); St Albans (30km) Fwy Park Sackville Tizzana Marramarra National

To Bathurst Winery Ck Patonga (58km) Park Brooklyn Barrenjoey Ebenezer 1 Newcastle West Head Head Clarence – 40 PALM BEACH Mt Wilson Road Bilpin Berowra Hwy of Wilberforce Whale Beach Zig Zag Hawkesbury Berowra Waters Lithgow Bell Panorama SydneyKu-ring-gai AVALON Railway Line Hawkesbury Chase ὈὈὈὈPoint Lookout ὈὈὈὈPacificὈὈBILGOLA Great Kurrajong Visitors Pitt Town Bells Mt Tomah National Botanic Centre Park Western Gardens Vale Lookout River Richmond Windsor Waratah Park Hartley Earth WARRIEWOOD Hwy 2 1 Anvil ean 10 Galston Sanctuary NARRABEEN Rock W Sydney Lakeside Holiday Park Mt Victoria Perry's Lookdown Blue Mountains Nep Windsor indsor Gorge National Park COLLAROY Collaroy Beach Pulpit Rock Downs 3 Park Collaroy Beachhouse YHA Govett's Leap Rd Blackheath Sanctuary DEE WHY Mt Blackheath Evan's Lookout Castlereagh 7 CURL CURL Curl Curl Beach ὈὈὈὈBlue Mountains RIVERSTONE ὈὈ2 To Jenolan Lookout Springwood Riverview See Greater Sydney Map (pp76–7) Freshwater Caves (20km) Lookout 32 Faulconbridge MANLY Hargreaves 2 Wentworth Marge's 10 Lookout Leura Lawson 1 Falls Lookout PENRITH ST 6 3 Medlow Bath 7 MARY'S Featherdale Katoomba Blaxland NORTH 10 MOSMAN Megalong Wildlife Park PARRAMATTA Telstra RYDE Wentworth Woodford Stadium S O U T H Valley Echo Point Glenbrook Falls 4 tern 4 Wes W Sydney International The Three Elizabeth's Mwy Great 2 P A C I F I C Sublime estlink Tennis Centre Sisters Lookout Western SYDNEY Point Hwy O C E A N Jamison Prospect Sydney 4 5 BONDI ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ Children's Valley Reservoir 7 (under Museum 6 See Blue Mountains Map (p120) 3 5 1 COOGEE Coxs Hwy Hume Sydney International Northern Rd co Maroubra Blue Mountains n 5 Airport s LIVERPOOL River National Park tr u Wicked Campers ction) 1 Botany 3 Bay 7 LA PEROUSE Bare Island 6 Grand Pines KURNELL Tourist Park LEPPINGTON ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈHwy National Park

Mwy lonelyplanet.com

Kanangra-Boyd Hwy) rn LOFTUS Princes Cronulla National Park Lake te Burragorang 6 Port Hacking Wes (Hume Heathcote 1 Audley Bundeena Narellan National South5 Park HEATHCOTE Kanangra Walls Camden Campbelltown Royal The To Southern To Melbourne National Oaks Wattamolla To Picton (15km); Highlands (36km); 31 via coast Park ὈὈὈὈὈ Canberra (214km) (1038km)ὈὈὈ to 5pm). way adult/child $4/2, 20minutes, hourly 8am 10km away(one- from Cronulla trainstation it Botany Bay after speci- themanybotanical Bay it Botany named was here Banks (hisnaturalistJoseph Jamesthat Captain Cook’s Australianlandfall that thecityisbuilton It’strue Bay. Botany misconception amongSydneyfirst-timers Perpetuated shanties,it’sacommon bysea BOTANY BAY rich inhistory. Hwy southare of devoid frenetic activitybut and wide-openspacesfollowingtheHume along thecoast.Thescattering of smalltowns National Parks stem suburbanproliferation the expansive andRoyal Ku-ring-gai Chase leaves atrailof initswake, development but Heading west,theGreat Western Hwy(M4) is tempered bynaturalbeautyonitsfringes. metropolisof smoggy The teeming, Sydney lonelyplanet.com Buslink the train toCronulla( p111 ) then outside. Toget here viapublictransport, catch aswellpark to theparkentrance, soyoumight is free. Most of thewalkingtracks beginclose on thesouthernheadland –pedestrianaccess expeditions. Theentry fee forcars appliesonly There’s alsomaterial exploring Cook’slife and has informationon thesurroundingwetlands. Sun) admission free; 9111; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; CapeSolander Dr, Kurnell; trashy Kurnell.The is onthesouthernsideof theparkintrailer- track. Cook’smonument-marked landingplace walking tracks,picnicareas andan8kmcycle bay –458hectares of bushland andcoastal Park sions andbusinessparks, endearing placeinAustralianhistory. hasscenicstretchesBay andholdsaspecial, trial heartland.Despite therefineries, Botany southSydney’ssmoke-stackedposes indus- verges, coastal ex- Bay’s deeper butdigging when hestepped ashore stilldominate Botany scape andnative bush thatconfronted Cook the north.Thewhite land- beaches, craggy Jackson’s more reliable water source15kmto mens hefound),butSydneygrew around Port 5.30pm Jun-Aug) GETR SYDNEY GREATER Beyond theoiltankers, industrialsubdivi- Beyond conveys theimpactof Europeanarrivaland (cars $7, pedestrians &cyclistsfree; (cars $7,pedestrians ( % 02-9523 4047; www.buslink.net.au) h occupiesbothheadlandsof the 11am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat & 10am-4.30pmSat& 11am-3pm Mon-Fri, GREATER SYDNEY••BotanyBay Discovery Centre Discovery Botany Bay National Botany BayNational h 7am-7.30pm, to 7am-7.30pm, to

( % Crowthers Crowthers bus 987 bus987 02-9668 02-9668 in 1885todiscourage afeared Russian inva- decaying, grass-tussocked concrete fortbuilt pedestrians &cyclists free; pedestrians further south.The park’smainroaddetours 30km southof Sydney,andstretches 20km black yellow-tailed cockatoos. side communities andraucousflocksof huge scrub, lush rainforest,coastal isolated sea- features beaches, secluded vertiginous cliffs, the oldestnationalparkinworld. Thepark sunrise-8.30pm) the 16,500-hectare The traditionallandof theDharawalpeople, ROYAL NATIONALPARK minutes, 20minutes). every Perouseto La (one-wayadult/child $5/3,45 394andL94run fromCircularQuay Buses Getting There&Away to accesstheisland. sion. A45-minute guidedtouristheonly way h parks.nsw.gov.au; toursadult/concession/family$8/6/22; strange hibitions onlocalhistoryandenvironment. Perouse’s manyexpeditions,pluschanging ex- (1882).Thecentre station hasrelics fromLa h Cable Station,AnzacPde,LaPerouse; adult/child/family$6/3/13; Centre visit thefabulous to commemorate theexplorer. Youcanalso Perouse,at La builtin1828byFrench sailors, in theSolomonIslands.There’s amonument ships were discovered onareef nearVanikoro It wasn’tuntil1826thatthewrecks of their intothePacific,off again. tobeseen never forafew before Bay weeks at Botany sailing Perouseusual disdain,La andhismencamping tions were apparently conducted withoutthe England adecentscare. rela- Anglo–Franco (much soonerthanexpected) andgave Mother just sixdaysafter Cook’sFirst arrived Fleet namearrivedthe same in1788.He turnedup land, atthespotwhere theFrench explorer of and Aboriginal sites). Walk Heritage Bundeena-Maianbar andwalking the ming at Horderns Beach There’s notalot todohere beyondswim- world away fromSydney’s clashandthrob. to Bundeena La Perouse La The nationalpark beginsatPortHacking, About Perouse 50moffshore atLa isthe 10am-4pm Wed-Sun) 1.30 &2.30pmSatSunOct-Feb, SunonlyMar-Sep)

( % Bare Island Bare 02-9311 3379;www.environment.nsw.gov.au; , asmalltownon Port Hacking –a is on Botany Bay’s northern head- Bay’s isonBotany was established in1879,makingit was established La Perouse Museum & Visitors &Visitors LaPerouse Museum

housed inside the old cable insidetheoldcable housed ( Royal NationalPark % h 02-9247 5033;www.national main roads24hr,beach (coastal views (coastal

(cars $11,

109

, a AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ

AROUND SYDNEY of thepark;more diligent prevention meas- one (1994)destroyed95% The mostserious for three voraciousbushfires inrecent years. of theparkisanoceanof lowscrub,thefuel 110 is safer). Youcan alsoswim inthe upper but Burning Palms wild flowers. and earlyspring theparkiscarpeted with of the IllawarraEscarpment.Inlate winter the park’ssouthern boundaryontheedge forestfind taller trees inriver valleys andat ures have implemented since. been You’ll Garie Beach Garie and lagoon, which is great for aswim,and (25km) Liverpool To 60

Princes Hwy Waterfall Southern Fwy ROYAL NATIONALPARK

The sandstone plateau atthenorthernend The sandstone Further intothe park is

To Wollongong Heathcote Rd Heathcote 60 Marley Beach Marley 1 RAE YNY • oa ainlPr GREATER SYDNEY••RoyalNationalPark 1 (35km) 6

Helensburgh Princes Hwy Helensburgh Engadine Station Waterfall Station National

, great forasurf. McKell Royal Park Lilyvale Station Station Heathcote Station Otford

Beaches alsohave goodsurf, Beaches Kangaroo Creek Ave Station Engadine can berisky (LittleMarley Uloola Track 68 Sutherland

Loftus Station

Wakehurst Dve

Lookout

Otford Red Cedar Lady Boat Shed Creek Kangaroo Visitors Centre Flat

Audley

Lady Carrington Jungle Ave Uloola

Camp Palm Site Farnell Era Wattamolla Beach

Game Lookout Hacking River Dve Governor , Park (disused) Royal National SouthEra ToSydney(25km) Burning Audley Beach Palms Bungoona Sir Bertram Lookout

Stevens Dve 68 68 Crystal Era Beach South Era Pools Era Beach Sir Curra Moors Bertram Flat Rock Creek Garie and Stevens Warumbul Rd Beach Garie Garie BeachYHA Winifred 68 Falls

Dve Gundamaian

TASMAN Coastal Wattamolla SEA Warumbul rowboats, canoes and kayaks ($16/30 per rowboats, canoes accoutrements at the Youcan hirebushwalking details. exercise assist with campingpermits, mapsand parks.nsw.gov.au; Farnell Rd,Audley; recommended.highly trail two-day,28km spectacular ter swimming holes.Ifyouhave time,the from Audley;others passtranquil, freshwa- cycling trackfollowstheHacking River south and cyclingtracksinthepark.Awalking and ing River. reaches of Kangaroo Creek butnottheHack- 528 9867; Farnell Rd,Audley; Walking The There are somesuper picnicsites, walks Heritage Walk skirtsthepark’seastern boundary andis National Rd Wattamolla Trail Royal Park Caringbah Bundeena- Port Hacking Maianbar Curracurrong visitors centre Maianbar Eagle Rock Little Marley Wattamolla Beach Cronulla Bundeena Route Deer Ferry Pool Providential

Rd 4km 2miles 0 0 Head

( % Bed &Breakfast P ACIF Bundeena Beachhaven O CEAN Marley Beach S OUTH Audley BoatShed Audley Beach Little Marley h Wharf Cronulla Cronulla BeachYHA 02-9542 0648;www.national Bonnie Vale Passionfruit Café&Manna 9am-5pm) h lonelyplanet.com coastal walking coastal walking Jibbon Point 9am-4pm) , including

( % can 02- Bundeena. or6½hoursfrom Otfordtrainstation, from carpark, 3½hours walk fromGarieBeach both of which have thekey. It’sa15-minute deck, just begging for time-wastage.deck, justbegging to lollaroundonandabeautifulbeach-view There’s abarbecue,lawns Horderns Beach. but hastwolavish onheavenly suites right inafaux-Tudorkindof way, looks abitnaff up withfellow trailwalkers. coastal Ensuite a topspottohoneyoursurfingskillsorhook Their cheerful viberubsoff onguestsandit’s this comfyhostel knowCronullaintimately. i Cronulla;dm/d/f$28/75/95; beachyha.com; L1,40Kingsway, 10am-2pmSat) Fri, St,Sydney; www.yha.com.au; 422Kent Centre ship &Travel Bookviathe is utterly secluded. to oneof thebestsurfbeaches inNSWand you have toluginallyourfood,butit’s close tricity atthismega-basic, 12-bunk hostel and BeachYHA Garie Sleeping &Eating and bicycles($14/30perhour/day). hour/day), aquabikes ($12per30minutes) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com walking track, mannafrom heaven indeed. coffee dirty days onthecoastal –after several kebabs and pies, toasted anddecent sandwiches gourmet fabuloussalads, classy Manna serves deena; mains $10-15; your dayonasteady course.set winners; Brekky theBigBundeena ($10)will cakesThe homemadelasagne, andpizzasare thecrustiestofing tofooleven local yokels. their top-qualitycooking asfast-food, manag- visitors centre. a permit($3perperson from the pernight) Uloola onthewestern sideof thepark;grab trailandat you cancampalongthecoastal Bonnie Vale nearBundeena. Ifyou’re walking, d inclbreakfast $250-275; www.beachhavenbnb.com.au; 13BundeenaDr, Bundeena; boards andlinenare free. videos,body access;thepooltable, wheelchair doubles approach motel quality;there’s good National Park; dm$14) Fri-Tue) Bundeena; mains$5-20; Cronulla BeachYHA Beachhaven Bed&Breakfast Beachhaven There’s adrive-in Café Manna Café Passionfruit Café ) Thetwogregarious brothers whorun Passionfruit’s owners expertlydisguise

( %

or the Cronulla Beach YHA,or theCronullaBeach h ( % 02-9523 9555; 4/22 Brighton St,Bun- 02-9523 9555;4/22Brighton

There’s nophoneorelec- breakfast &lunch) ( h (Map (Map pp78-9 ; %

02-9261 1111; Garie Beach,Royal 02-9261 1111;Garie ai ( % camp site breakfast &lunchdaily,dinner 02-9527 6555; 48 Brighton St, 02-9527 6555;48Brighton 02-9527 7772;www.cronulla ) Beachhaven B&B Beachhaven

(adult/child $8/4) h ( % % Unexpectedly Unexpectedly YHA Member- 9am-5pm Mon- GREATER SYDNEY••Parramatta 02-9261 1111; 02-9544 1333; at wards thecity’s attractions. cent styleof itsown. ofinjecting ahealthy dose culture andanas- CBD, asSydney’ssecond itself establishing ied, Parramatta of hasgotonwiththetask perception, butwith the’80sdeadandbur- helpedaddtothis architectural disservices full of neanderthals.Arashof horrendous more thanalowbrowshopping-mall ’burb ing Sydneysiders’ viewof Parramatta aslittle acid-wash-clad, mullet-proudfans perpetuat- team, the rivermatta’s plainswere instead. chosen soils were lousyforgrowingcarrots–Parra- Sydney’ssandy Europeansettlement. second place where liedown’,wasAustralia’s eels aDarugAboriginalmatta, namemeaning‘the Twenty-four kilometres westof Sydney, Parra- % PARRAMATTA day) withreduced winter services. Monday toSaturday,10.30amand2pmSun- family $18/13/50,three-hour 10.30am cruise, Scenic Cruises Thisoutfitalsoruns train station. Cronulla Wharfisoff TonkinStjustbelowthe adult/concession $5/3,30minutes, hourly). com.au; CronullaWharf) tional Park Ferries’ take thetraintoCronullathen Loftus tothevisitors centre isclosest (6km). park boundary,withtrailsleadingintothepark. Waterfall are andOtfordtrainstations onthe Alternatively, Loftus, Engadine,Heathcote, next). thenferry across(see hour, half-hourly), (one-wayadult/concession$5/3,one Station www.131500.com.au) over ( thecliffs p323 ). dangling out CliftonandCoalcliff, between ofsea-bridge section Hargrave Lawrence Dr Wollongong, don’tmissthefamous665m from thecity.Ifyou’re drivingnorthfrom northern end–it’sabout a45-minute drive and turnoff southof Loftus tothepark’s From Sydney,take thePrincesHwysouth Getting There&Away Heritage Centre Heritage lonial buildings. Theutterly helpful small-town vibeandaclutch of precious co- .au; 346A ChurchSt; Modernity aside, Parramatta retains a During the1980s,localrugby league The mostscenicroute intotheparkisto If you’re cycling,catch a 02 /pop152,600 Parramatta Eels through thesummer(adult/child/ through

( % h

train to Cronulla from Central train toCronullafromCentral ( % boat to Bundeena (one-way boattoBundeena 8839 3311; www.parracity.nsw.gov 9am-5pm) 02-9523 2990;www.cronullaferries. , was unbeatable, its , wasunbeatable, can steer you to- CityRail Port Hacking Hacking Port

Cronulla Na- ( Parramatta % 13 15 00; 13 1500;

111 AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY now a hands-on museum –reclinenow ahands-onmuseum onthe pastoralist/rum traderJohn Macarthur. It’s European home(1793),builtby renegade partofcontains Australia’soldestsurviving early settler. cemetery (1870),theresting placeof manyan 6861; paper-dry lawns of St,theopen, Argylebetween StandCampbell NearbyonO’ConnellSt, museum. tained until the1850s.It’snowapreciously main- successivefarm andhoused NSW governors Sun) h trust.org.au; Parramatta Park; adult/concession/family$8/5/18; House Old Government Sights 112 3.30pm Sat&Sun) sion/family $6/4/14; Farm Cottage a carparkinthe1980s. as weekend lodgingsandalmost became used Macarthurs’ governess, daughter’s waslater 4pm Wed,Thu,Sat& Sun) 6924; cnrHassallSt&Gregory Pl;adult/child$4/3; Elizabeth Macarthur’s letters. furniture andthumbvoyeuristicallythrough in 1791 foremancipist farmer James as Ruse 70 AliceSt;adult/concession/family$8/4/17; An 1880s colonialbungalow, Not faraway, Duffys Forest; adult/child$17/11; adult/child $19/9; Hills; Several wildlife parksonSydney’sfringesletyou getclosetoAustralia’s iconicwildlife. WILDLIFE PARKS then catch Hills bus631,632or633(adult/child$3/2,10minutes).then catchHills birds watchnonplussedfromthesidelines. thetraintoPennant take Via publictransport, Hills the cute critters wombats,echidnas,dingoesandnative atkoalapresentations whilekangaroos, hectare forest for visitors asitisforthelittle –asmuchasanctuary grey tourist-magnets. Cuddle the iconic ‘60s Australian TV show the iconic‘60sAustralian TV thetraintoBlacktownthenBuswaysbus725(adult/child$2/1,10minutes).the city,ortake tornados).Excellentwheelchairaccess.(no, theydon’tspinaroundlike It’sa40-minute drive from sometimewithaTasmanianand emus,slitherwithreptiles, soporifickoalasorkill stroke devil eating, sleeping,shagging, defecating andgenerallybeingbeastly.Hand-feed wallabies kangaroos, wildlife is nocturnal). Entry via bookings only.It’sa30-minutewildlife drive Entryviabookings isnocturnal). fromthecity. bandicoots, potoroosandwallabiescomeouttoplayonevening spotlighttours(80%of Australia’s old cagesandconstructed wildlife thisramblingfree-range Mammalssuchaskangaroos, park. adult/child/family $19/10/55; 1hr tours 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4.30pmSat& 1hr tours10am-4.30pmMon-Fri, , established in1799,wasParramatta’s, established first h RAE YNY • urn-a hs ainlPr GREATER ChaseNationalPark SYDNEY••Ku-ring-gai Kaa ak Sanctuary Park Koala Featherdale Wildlife Park ParkWaratah Sanctuary Earth sunrise-sunset)

( % was built by Governor Phillip

h ( % 9635 5655; 9 RuseSt;adult/conces- comprise Australia’s oldest comprise Hambledon Cottage

10.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am- 10.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, ( St John’sCemetery 9635 9488;www.hht.nsw.gov.au; % , builtin1824for the h 9635 8149;www.nsw.national 9am-5pm, koalapresentations 10.20am,11.45am,2pm&3pm)

h Mp p108; (Map h

9am-5pm) (Map p108; (Map 10am-9pm, reduced winterhrs) h Skippy theBushKangaroo Experiment Experiment

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h Featherdale’s bushy parkhouses2000native Australians, ( % % % 02-9484 3141; www.koalapark.com; 84 Castle Hill Rd,WestPennant 84CastleHill 02-9484 3141;www.koalapark.com; 11am- 9635 9686 02-9622 1644; www.featherdale.com.au; 217 Kildare Rd,Doonside; 02-9622 1644;www.featherdale.com.au; 217Kildare % 02-9986 1788; www.waratahpark.com.au; 13NambaRd, 02-9986 1788;www.waratahpark.com.au; Circular Quay(one-wayadult/child $8/4,50 unteers, the Aboriginal rock engravings. trails, picnicareastracks, horse-riding and pluswalking stone outcrops andwater vistas, ofthat classicSydney cocktail bushland, sand- the western shore of Pittwater. Ondisplayis borders the southern edge of Broken and Bay h This 15,000-hectare KU-RING-GAI CHASE NATIONALPARK which measures just25macross. the lazy,waterlily-laden , minutes, hourly)–SydneyHarbour thinsinto the Youcanalsoget here on utes, half-hourly). (one-wayadult/childramatta $4/2, 30min- toPar- Station run fromSydney’sCentral drive. (M4; $2)atStrathfield.It’sa45-minute city andontothetolledWestern Motorway By car,followParramatta Rdwestfromthe Getting There&Away musty cellarmuseum. first private farmer;hislife isdepicted inthe becameAustralia’s subsequently plies. Ruse fromgovernmenthim toweanhimself sup- howlongitwouldtake an experimenttosee Staffed byfriendly (if alittledoddery) vol- Staffed CityRail sunrise-sunset) RiverCat This placewasoncethebackdropfor . The newownersdemolishedthe grim

( %

( % Kalkari visitors centre Kalkari 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) , 24kmnorthof thecitycentre, 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) national park Koala Park isa4.5- lonelyplanet.com (

(per car$11; % trains 02-9472 from at WestHead duringtheirMay-to-July mating is alsoawinner. renjoey Head (anannexe of thenationalpark) onBar-Pittwater Lighthouse toBarrenjoey Pittwater. TheviewfromWestHead across views ramurra entrance. Inn onCowanCreek, thenclimbstotheTur- Head Rd; ( picnic area road descendsfromKalkari tothe into theparkfromMtColahentrance. The h ChaseRd; 9300; www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Ku-ring-gai lonelyplanet.com via PacificHwy To Hornsby(3km) % Station Mt Colah 83 Station Mt Ku-ring-gai KU-RING-GAI CHASENATIONALPARK ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Normally elusive offer parksections Elevated Berowra WatersRd 9am-5pm) 02-9472 8949;www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Bobbin 1 To Turramurra (5km);

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Bobbin lyrebirds Sphinx Waratah Warrimoo Head Rd War

Cowan Ck Bay Cowan Ave Halvorsen Centre Information Bobbin Head Picnic Area Bobbin Head 83 1 are conspicuous Jerusalem Earth Sanctuary Waratah Park Bay

glorious water water glorious Forest Duffys Creek Smith 3 To StIves (1km)

Cowan Bobbin Head Cottage Point Island Long ὈὈ ὈὈ Creek Beach Fishermans

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Vale The Resolute

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Basin Elvina Bay Elvina 3 Parkway Church Bay 4km 2miles 0 0 Towlers Point Red HandsCave Red Bay Halvorsen Scotland Mona Vale Island

The Basin West Head Narrabeen Hands Cave Great Red Mackerel Beach Lakes West Head Portuguese Pittwater Beach Lookout

Pittwater ( 10 Barrenjoey Bilgola % Rd Barrenjoey Palm BeachWharf Narrabeen Newport Head Avalon 10 Beach Palm 14 . Fromthe 02-9457 9011; Lighthouse Barrenjoey (nottobe P ACIF O CEAN S OUTH Rd Whale Beach

113 AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY Head andHalvorsen Information Centre from WestHead Rdoraferry orwater-taxi L88 from Wynyard Park inthe citytoWar- Ku-ring-gai Chase isabouta45-minuteKu-ring-gai drive Chase Getting There&Away Marina. (mains $5-15; ings essential. your ownfoodandcookingequipment. Book- twater. There are basic amenities,butbring spitjutting into Pit- improbably scenicsandy ride fromPalm Thesite sitsonan Beach. tional Park; pernightadult/child$10/5) ChaseNa- 1011; www.basincampground.com.au;Ku-ring-gai isthe gai Chase stomp 10minutes upthehill. ferry fromChurch PointtoHalls Wharf,then Toget here,food. Bookingsessential. take the in atwo-person kayak(perhour$15);BYO (the kitchen isagood’un).Splasharound won’t mindthebasicbutcomfyfacilities isamustforwildernessfans,whosetting as friendlythewildlife. Theisolated bush here areand idylliclocation,thestaff almost Proud of Pittwater views theiroutstanding ChaseNationalPark; dm$28,d&tw$66) .au; Ku-ring-gai YHAHostel Pittwater Sleeping &Eating Sun) .nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; adult/child$3/2; of NationalPark.Chase Take a 30-minute tour of Palm isalsopartof Ku-ring-gai Beach, www.halvorsenmarina.com.au; 114 ringah Mall, Why orMona Vale Dee thenbus ( here it’sabout3km toBobbin Head. adult/child $4/2,20minutes, hourly).From park entranceon Bobbin Head Rd (one-way Buses and Church Pointinthesoutheast. ramurra inthesouthwest; andTerrey Hills the park:MtColah onthePacific Hwy;Tur- from thecity,withfourroadentrances to 577 runs from Turramurra Station to the577 runsfromTurramurra Station Basin ifyousimply Basin risky swim,butthere’s anetted area atThe hire aboat.Sharks inBroken make Bay fora Head forinformationonwhere tocharter or % Inside theparkthere are takeaway The onlyplaceyoucancampinKu-ring- Another bus optionistotake Barrenjoey Head Barrenjoey Barrenjoey Lighthouse Barrenjoey for sensational viewsof thearea. forsensational 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) RAE YNY • aksuyRvr GREATER River SYDNEY•• Hawkesbury

( % 02-9457 8888;www.shorelink.com.au) h breakfast &lunch) Basin Camping Ground BasinCamping , theknobbly

( % must 02-9999 5748;www.yha.com h

cooloff. ( % 8am-5pm) bus190, L90or 02-9472 9300;www attheBobbin , a2.8kmwalk

northern end Sydney Buses h atBobbin

( % Shorelink Shorelink 11am-3pm 02-9974 bus cafés

up on summer weekends. boats, fishing andfishing boats.Things liven intoameasuredsettled pacerevolving around around in gumbootsand beanies, theirlives space of theestuary.Tattooed locals stomp thickly woodedbanks andswellsintotheopen squats ontheHawkesbury where itdepartsits The smalloyster-farming townof Brooklyn &Berowra Waters opportunities. work on wineandfarm trailsandseasonal 477; www.hawkesburyharvest.com.au) tact farms, floweracreages andalpacastuds.Con- Hawkesbury vineyards, vegetable sustains and BouddiNationalParks tothenorth. Parks inthesouthand Dharug,BrisbaneWater Marramarra National andKu-ring-gai Chase The Hawkesbury alsolinksthe shorelines of to thesouth,andBrisbaneWater tothenorth. Creek, CowanWater andPittwater Berowra picnic spots,theriver spreading intoinletsat 20km stretch isdotted withcoves, beaches and ful bulkdominates thelandscape. The final north of SydneyatBroken itsbeauti- Bay, ontories. Bythetimeitreaches 30km thesea, ofseries rainyriver townsandbushy prom- where itribbonsandmoilsitswayarounda begins asawetsliver nearRichmond, from The slow-roaming,smoky Hawkesbury River HAWKESBURY RIVER $6/3, onehour30minutes, half-hourly). from WynyardPark (one-wayadult/child up tosixpeople,20minutes). Point Ferry WharfandPalm ($55for Beach Church ondemandbetween operates services bookings. for and 3.45pmSaturdaySunday).Call utes, 11amMondaytoFriday,9am, (return adult/child $35/20,fourhours 30min- from Palm toBobbin Head, Beach viaPatonga sceniccruises.com) Cruises utes, hourly). (one-way adult/concession$12/6,15min- WharfinPittwater andTheBasin Beach hour 30minutes, hourly). entire journey(one-wayadult/child $6/3,one 156 toChurch Point.Ask foraticket forthe www.palmbeachferry.com.au) The fertile farmingcountry aroundthe To get toPalm take bus190orL90 Beach, The Hawkesbury Harvest Hawkesbury ( Palm Beach Ferry Service Palm BeachFerry Service % Church Point Water TaxisChurch PointWater 02-9974 2159,0414466635;www.sydney Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com operates athere-and-back ferry Palm Beach & Hawkesbury River River Palm Beach&Hawkesbury shunts between Palm shuntsbetween

( % 02-4570 1250,0415244 for information (

% ( % 02-9974 2411; 0428 238190) Brooklyn

Fish Café old-school waytoget afeel fortheriver. It lia’s lastoperatingmailboatandadecidedly runs 1½-hourmorningandafternoon tea cook andeatthefruitsof yourlabour. Italso shuck someoysters, haulincrab trapsthen Brooklyn; perperson$84; 9237; www.crab-n-oystercruises.com.au; BrooklynWharf, cupation, take a may have tochange atHornsby. themorningboat.You intimetomeet Station gets youtoBrooklyn’sHawkesbury River Station 8.16am trainfromSydney’sCentral $60/40/150); callfortimesandbookings.The (adult/child/family ences onanall-daycruise in summer.cruises’ Combinethetwoexperi- Marlow, nearSpencer,withadditional‘coffee chugs 40kmuptheHawkesbury asfar ily $45/25/115; Brooklyn;adult/child/fam- 02-9985 7658;BrooklynWharf, lonelyplanet.com off. The road hairpins downto thetownshipoff. turn- ney–Newcastle Fwy– take theBerowra boxed text p116 ). see modation options(excluding houseboats; 10am-3pm Sun) St,Brooklyn; 2/5 Bridge ( Service Accommodation Booking River Hawkesbury and burgers withaserene river outlook. steaks plussalads, variousfishy delights serves Marina from the an outboarddinghy If youfeel like exploring,rev the river in Creek.free, 24-hour ferry acrossBerowra boatsheds andresidences cluster aroundthe Berowra Waters peters downtothechilled-out river town terway diverts fromtheHawkesbury and kiosk onthewharf. lunch Thu-Sun,dinnerWed-Sun) oysters at snottylocal slither downsomesensationally ing required. 3.30pm respectively. Twodaysadvancebook- ($66perperson)cruises departing9amand Berowra Waters;half-day$70; 7877; 5 Bridge St,Brooklyn;12oysters$8-15; 7877; 5Bridge mains $10-17; from 7.30amSat&Sun) % The If you want to stay the night inthearea, thenight If youwanttostay the If youdon’thave youcan timeforacruise, For anauthentictaste of thelocalpreoc- Berowra Waters is5kmwest ofBerowra the Syd- Further upstream, anarrowforested wa- 02-9987 7090; www.hawkesburyriverrealestate.com.au; 02-9987 7090;www.hawkesburyriverrealestate.com.au;

Riverboat Postman Riverboat ( %

( % Joshua’s Seafood Bar Café Joshua’s Seafood 02-9456 3200;fax4244;199BayRd, h hasthelowdown onlocalaccom- h 02-9456 4665;199BayRd,BerowraWaters; where ahandfulof businesses, breakfast &lunchdaily,dinnerWed-Sun) 9.30am-1.15pm Mon-Fri) GREATER River SYDNEY••Hawkesbury Crab ‘N’ Oyster Cruise Crab ‘N’Oyster . In the same complex, the . Inthesame h h 11.30am-2pm) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to4pmSat, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, h . It also has a takeaway . Italsohasatakeaway

8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, ( % 02-9985 7566;fax Berowra Waters Berowra Waters uptheriver – h isAustra-

( ( % % breakfast & 02-9985 02-9985

along theriver. sandstone sandstone (EPA; the algae. Call due toblue-greenis sometimesill-advised FerryWisemans andWindsorduringsummer that swimmingintheHawkesbury between Ferryconnect theWisemans river banks.Note Park andtheriver. Twofree 24-hourferries Ferry Rd,wedged DharugNational between route isfromtheeast,viaOldWisemans Old NorthernRd.Amore camera-conducive Brooklyn. Accessfromthesouthisviadirect Hawkesbury River where itslideseasttowards Ferry riversideThe sedentary hamletof Wisemans Ferry&Around .au) Cruises Waters.trudge fromBerowra isasolid6km Station one hour).Berowra bury River (one-wayadult/child Station $7/4, hourly)andontoBrooklyn’sHawkes-roughly rowra (one-wayadult/child $6/3,45minutes, toBe- Station run fromSydney’sCentral in Sydney’snortheast. theGalstonGorge,through northof Hornsby Waters route istheroad toBerowra curvy) the Hawkesbury. Analternative (andjustas ther north,justbefore thefreeway crosses for caravans). isfur- TheBrooklynturn-off terraces jagged sandstone (lousythrough The town’ssocialhubisthehistoric CityRail skipper. night soyou don’tblindthe approaching headlights ifyou’re waitingforthe ferry at andSackville. TurnLower Portland offyour ries atBerowraWaters, WisemansFerry, with asatisfyingshudder. You’llfind fer- side, slidingintothe opposite riverbank into positionthen shunt youtotheother ferrymen,fluoro-clad wholocksafety-gates guided ontothepunts byburly,bearded, shunt vehicles acrossthewater. Yourcaris hour, winch-driven ferries hasevolved to back to1827,acuriousculture offree, 24- invariablybumpinto it. Datingtrajectories) across theplains,roads(onfarmore linear As River theHawkesbury curlsabstractly DON’T PAY THEFERRYMAN runs water taxis ondemandtoanywhere runswater taxis % (Map p137 ) spills over abowof the

( 13 1555) %

( % 02-9985 9900;www.hawkesburycruises.com Wisemans Ferry Inn 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) pollutionlineforupdates. Environment Protection Authority Environment Protection

( % Hawkesbury Hawkesbury 02-4566 4301; Wisemans trains 115

AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY on tap, a thigh-warming winter athigh-warming hearthand on tap, a bushrangers’ den,withEnglish-style ales the pub. bookanen-suite cabin behind the night, pub datingbackto1836.Ifyouwant tostay the town’sheartandsoul,anoble sandstone St,StAlbans;dfrom$130; arms.com.au; 1Wharf and soft river ripplesontheother. with rocky,wattle-dappledbush ononeside jung tribalcountry.It’saphoto-worthydrive, Ferry totiny Macdonald River runnorthfromWisemans ferry Ferry. crossing atWisemans Follow thesigns2.5kmfromWebbsCreek lunch SaturdayandSunday,dinnerdaily). home andarestaurant (mains$16-27;open ranging fromho-humtohome-away-from- screenings, bushwalks etc),roomysites, cabins nine-hole golfcourse, tennis courts,movie river, withloadsof activities(swimmingpool, bling caravan parkontheopposite sideof the per 2people$30/33;cabinsfrom$100; Rd, WebbsCreek, WisemansFerry; unpowered/powered sites sort boat, theexoticallynamed and seafood. heftycountryplates of steak, pasta ner) serves bistro (mains$12-25;openlunch anddin- singers, smokers andlingerie barmaids;the The pubdownstairs buzzeswithcountry $66, f$75), Rd,WisemansFerry; d&tw fax 02-45664780;OldNorthern 116 shared bathrooms,smudged with’70sdécor. mains $13-25; Settlers ArmsInn Settlers roadsonbothsidesofLargely unsealed the If bawdypubrevelry floatyour doesn’t The Inn’schunky old September, prices doublingduringsummer. boatforthreeguide, atwo-/four-/six-berth nightscostsfrom$600/750/1000 betweenMayand most outfitsoffer affordablelow-season,midweek andlong-term rental specials. As arough houseboat cruising. Houseboat hire rates during summerandschoolholidays,but skyrocket forarelaxedthe SUVandfleetoHawkesbury offishing, chardonnaysippingand weekend Stressed-out Sydneysiderslove inthebackof toswitchofftheirmobilephones,packthekids HAWKESBURY HOUSEBOATS

(

% RAE YNY • aksuyRvr GREATER River SYDNEY•• Hawkesbury 3008 River Rd,Wiseman’sFerry)3008 River Most companiesbase themselves atBrooklyn;here are someofthemain players: Ripples Houseboats Holidays Afloat Brooklyn Marina Able Hawkesbury River Houseboats 02-4566 4330; www.delrioresort.com.au; Chaseling 02-4566 4330;www.delrioresort.com.au; which hassixbasicpubroomswith h St Albans lunch daily,dinnerFri-Sun)

( %

(Map p137 ) inDarkin- ( ( % % 02-4568 2111;www.settlers ( % 02-9985 7722; www.brooklynmarina.com.au; 45BrooklynRd,Brooklyn) 02-9985 7722; www.brooklynmarina.com.au; bar 02-9985 7368; www.holidaysafloat.com.au; 65BrooklynRd, Brooklyn) Del Rio Riverside Re- Riverside Del Rio as 02-9985 5555; www.ripples.com.au; 87Brooklyn Rd,Brooklyn) 02-9985 5555;www.ripples.com.au;

( % 02-4568 2111; feels like ) isaram- s

( % ) is 1800 024979;www.hawkesburyhouseboats.com.au; the road,andat Haltcampsite Gentlemans There’s free bush-campingontheriver at Rd about20kmsouthof Ferry. Wisemans p137 ), withvehicle access fromOldNorthern 11,760-hectare On thesouthsideof theHawkesbury isthe fice ( p136 ). theGosfordNPWSOf- Rd. Bookthrough Ten Hollowcampsite Mile camping 12kmnorthof Ferry Wisemans at camp site park 8kmeastof Ferry Wisemans at Newcastle. There’s drive-in campinginthe park isthedilapidated years. Formingthewestern boundaryof the datingbacknearly10,000 its rockcarvings bank of theHawkesbury River, noted for a 14,000-hectare wildernessonthenorth people (alsospelledDharugorDarug).It’s Park decimated 90%of theirsociety, the1789introductionofBefore smallpox National Parks balcony after you’ve hadabrowse. a coffee andsomehomemadecake onthe painting, sculpture andindigenous art.Have quirky exhibitionsof local jewellery,glass, totem poles), outthefront. tables trippers gardenandtimber packthebeer antipastos fromthekitchen. Summerday- fabulous pies,soups,steak and sandwiches [email protected]; by convictsinthe1820stolinkSydneyand On thehillbehindpub(behind (Map p137 ) washometotheDharuk

(per nightadult/child$5/3) St AlbansGallery Marramarra NationalPark Marramarra Marramarra Creek campsite Creek Marramarra Old Great North Rd North Old Great h onOldGreat North , a10kmwalkfrom 11am-5pm Fri-Sun) 11am-5pm Fri-Sun) , andfree walk-in lonelyplanet.com

( Dharug National % 02-4568 2286; Mill Creek Creek Mill (Map , built has , a functional courthouse. nation andfeels surprisinglylively andartsy. have shrugged ruralslow-pokery off andstag- to tioned colonialbuildings.Thetownseems Town andretains acropof gracefullypropor- Hawkesbury River, wasthemainMacquarie Windsor, foundedin1810onthebanks of the % Windsor Lineof Road( ontheBells Mountains p130 ). meander, particularlyenroute totheBlue the latter three make aninteresting triangular Windsor, Richmond andWilberforce. Today ‘Macquarie Towns’–PittTown,Castlereagh, Macquarieernor Lachlan thefive established food.Itwasherefor much-needed thatGov- young colonyof NSWrich agriculturalland of offeredin thelee theBlueMountains, the The river flatsof theupperHawkesbury River, MACQUARIE TOWNS ings andinformation. NationalParkin Ku-ring-gai Chase forbook- Office the 4km walkfromtheroad.Contact lonelyplanet.com ing at the made jamor contemplate acareer in busk- Australiana cravings, pick upapotof home- Harleys parked outthefront. open lunch anddinner) rowsof shiny garden, adecentbistro(mains$13-24, beer very much a small-townpub,withsunny History hasn’tgone toitsheadandit’sstill therethough are afew ‘oldestpubs’around. theoldest pubinAustralia(1815), claims itself St; 2206; fax45773465;99 George ( special istheelegant1822 chitect . AnotherGreenway erected in1820anddesignedbyconvictar- Moses St; built wander aroundthelantern-topped, convict- tourist paraphernalia. Australian AirForce(RAAF),and plentyof There’s totheRoyal alsoaroomdevoted lifeportraying pioneering intheregion. O’Connell Inn,hasacollectionof exhibits $3/1; 2310; www.windsor-nsw.com.au;7ThompsonSq;adult/child % On Sundays youcansatiate yourcrafty The shambling If you’re architecturally inclined,have a The 02 4577 5023; fax 4587 7272; cnr Court &Pitt Sts) 4577 5023;fax45877272;cnrCourt h St Matthew’s Church St Matthew’s

( % h Hawkesbury Historical Museum Museum Historical Hawkesbury 11am-3pm Fri-Wed) 02-9472 8949;www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au) 10am-3pm, services 8am,10am&5.30pmSun) 10am-3pm, services Windsor Mall Craft Markets Craft Windsor Mall GREATER Towns SYDNEY••Macquarie Macquarie ArmsHotel Macquarie ( % , inthe1843Daniel h 4577 3193;fax Windsor Courthouse 10am-midnight)

( ( ( % % % , stilla NPWS pro- 4577 4572 4577 ,

anonymity. St;dfrom$90; .com; 54George Overlooking theriver. Overlooking St;dfrom$110; terracemotel.com; 47George Windsor (one-way adult/child $7/4,onehour ern Hwy. climbs northfromPenrith ontheGreat West- St Mall). Westof Parramatta, NorthernRd Church St(you’ll have tosidestep the Church northwestern continuationof Parramatta’s to WindsorisRd(Route 40),the Bar &Grill lunch) mains $6-14; St,WindsorMall; 1/100 George at able coffee If thepubisn’tyourstyle,youcan get areli- Windsor Terrace Motel Windsor Motel $30; perperson .paddlewheeler.com.au; Wharf; WindsorBridge look ifonlyforthesnazzyarchitecture. film screenings It’swortha andkids’events. centre, withartexhibitions,literary launches, to3pmSat&Sun) Fri, St;admissionfree;tre, 300 George ( (too spooky). supper.light no under-10s Bookingsessential; and endattheMacquarie Armsandincludea lantern-lit After themarket, pluckupthecourage fora StbtwFitzgerald Sts; George &Baker WindsorMall, 7348; www.windsormallcraftmarkets.com.au; to eat or sleep, head forWindsor.to eat orsleep, Ifyou’reotherwise. looking forsomewhere going for it,andno-one around totell you an agricultural river-flat townwithout much Wee Wilberforce, 6kmnorth of Windsor, is Wilberforce &Around to change atBlacktown. need hourly);youmight 10 minutes, roughly h per person$25; trains run from Sydney’s Central Station to Station trains runfromSydney’s Central staying thenight: staying motelsspectacular) intownifyoufeel like & Jazz cruise. the river onitsoctogenarian-friendly Lunch Hawkesbury Paddlewheeler Hawkesbury % Driving fromSydney,thedirect route If you’re inWindsoronaSunday,the The spankingnew There (ifun- are acoupleof serviceable lunch &dinner) h 4560 4441; www.hawkesbury.com.au; L1,DeerubbinCen- 4560 4441;www.hawkesbury.com.au; oracheerily meat-centric mealat 12.30-2.30pm Sun)

( CityRail % Windsor GhostTour h ( Simon’s CoffeeLounge 4577 5422;22Fitzgerald St;mains$17-25; % . 7-9.15pm) has become Windsor’s cultural has becomeWindsor’scultural

( 4577 3626;www.windsormotorinn % ( Hawkesbury Regional Gallery Regional Hawkesbury splashes upanddown % 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) that night. Tours that night. start a h 4577 5999;www.windsor ( % 10am-4pm Mon&Wed- ) Cleanandtidymotel

( h % 4575 1171;www

9am-4pm Sun) /fax 45776882; ( h % a breakfast & 4577 2208; ) Cookies Cookies 117

.

AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY tea on a grapevine-shaded terrace.tea onagrapevine-shaded Justdown Devonshire andserves local historymuseum other ‘Australia’soldest’,which hasalittle bathrooms, bigger beds).Oneof therooms (think shutters, openfires, Persian rugs,big superb five-star accommodationupstairs other localvineyards.Thencheck intothe ofsales itsownwinesandperkydropsfrom $175-220; .tizzana.com.au; 518Tizzana Rd,near Ebenezer,rinclbreakfast sandstone kookaburras. spots andguffawing river forest, openwoodlands,lookouts,picnic 1.2km (onehourreturn), remnant passingtall ing Trail the roadfromhere, the 9350; 78CoromandelRd,Ebenezer; next dooratthe cumbing togravity. Continueyourreflection with skewed graves pioneer graduallysuc- h Church adult/child $3/2;15minutes, infrequently). toWilberforce(one-wayWindsor Station www.westbus.com.au) boots andtincans. and aninteresting collationof oldbottles, glass-fronted of cases wing-pinnedbutterflies rauding water-skiers; features themuseum The river beaches onthepropertydrawma- it off intheswimmingpool(adult/child $4/3). to swingbythe 118 1878 anything else. water-tank andchainsaw vendors here than sor’s touch of class–there are more tractor, and Victorianbuildings, butitlacksWind- tial countrytown withsomefineGeorgian Founded in1810, Richmond isasubstan- % Richmond the restfor knockingoff of thered. here has itsownveranda andcourtyard, ideal becue theinnardsof yourhamperthenwork still filling.Theadjoiningcemetery islittered oldest church inAustralia,itsSundaypews (inhushed, reverentsaid whispers) tobethe off SingletonRd),is Wilberforce (turnright adult/child $6/3; Rd, Wilberforce; 446Wilberforce www.butterflyfarm.com.au; Established in1887,theTuscanesqueEstablished Picnickers want might andtaxidermists The immaculately restored 1809 Architectural relics of interest include the 10am-3.30pm, service 8.30amSun) 10am-3.30pm, service 02 RAE YNY • aatu onr GREATER Country SYDNEY••Macarthur courthouse ( followstheHawkesbury riverbank for % h 02-4579 9491;78CoromandelRd,Ebenezer; noon-6pm Sat&Sun; Tizzana Winery h and 10am-5pm) Schoolmaster’s House Schoolmaster’s Butterfly Farm Butterfly buses 668and669runfrom buses police station Westbus Shallow Rock Reach Walk- Shallow RockReach , where youcanbar-

( h % a

) 10am-3.30pm) 02-4579 1150;www

, 5kmnorthof ( has cellar- ( % %

( % 02-9890 0000; 02-4575 1955;

( % Ebenezer Ebenezer 4578 0731; 02-4579 , an- mustard-and-rust-coloured Georgian house been subsumed by Sydney’s ever-expandingbeen have Liverpoolthough and Campbelltown some ofcontaining oldest towns, thestate’s the east. This iscleared, rollingsheep country Park escarpment to tothewestand coastal National ney, withthejagged BlueMountains follows arisingcorridor southwestfromSyd- The HumeHwy(South Western Motorway) MACARTHUR COUNTRY to change atBlacktown. need hourly);youmight 20 minutes, roughly fire inwinter. andanopen with outdoorsummertables dishareand theoddseafood onthe menu, on themainstreet. Steaks, roasts,heartysoups Brasserie usual motel fare. offering aparticularlycleanversion of the St;dfrom$100; www.colonialmotel.com.au; 161March is the area’s nationalparks. providing informationandpermitsforthe heritage-listed 1817weatherboardcottage, h tionalparks.nsw.gov.au; BowmansCottage,370WindsorSt; Richmond’s also handlingaccommodationbookings. Hawkesbury region’s maininformationcentre, don; .au; BicentennialPark, HamCommon,WindsorRd,Claren- centre mond andWindsor,the Art Decocharm andscreens recent releases. St; adult/concession$10/8; ( is theappealinglypaint-peeling in thecemetery dates from1809.More recent cally impressive; tombstone theoldestpioneer 10am &7pmSun) 384WindsorSt; .richmondanglican.com.au; 9.45am &6pmSun) Church Andrew’s $14-20; larly historic mond (one-wayadult/child $7/4,onehour toRich- Station run fromSydney’sCentral end of town.Thecedarpewsinsideare stoi- the corneronMarket St,thequasi-Gothic fax 4578 0732; cnr Market &WindsorSt) fax 45780732;cnrMarket % Oddly stranded halfway between Rich-Oddly strandedhalfwaybetween CityRail If you’re hungry,duckinto Richmond’s mostreliable option sleeping 9am-12.30pm &1.30-4.30pmMon-Fri) 4578 1800; www.richmondregent.com.au; 149Windsor 4578 1800;www.richmondregent.com.au; h

h Best Western ColonialMotel Best Western 9am-5pm) ( %

( breakfast Sun,lunch&dinnerdaily)

% ( % 4578 0233;www.hawkesburytourism.com 4588 5808;cnrWindsor&Paget Sts;mains , builtin1841,isatthewestern St Peter’s Church St Peter’s NPWS Office NPWS Office 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) , datingfrom1845.Thesimi- , near the RAAF base, isthe , neartheRAAFbase,

( % h 4578 3820; 10am-11pm)

( % Hawkesbury visitors Hawkesbury

( h % 4588 5247;www.na lonelyplanet.com and,around Madisons Bar& Madisons Regent Cinema Regent

h , which oozes services 8.30am, services 4578 1205;www ( isinsidea % services 8am, services , astylish 4578 1166; trains a St ) ,

surrounding trees are poplars isdebatable. the usual cabin fodder. Whether ornot the new roofing ironare theoriginalroof shin- the 1890sasaworkman’scottage. Underthe 3km northof thetown’scentre, wasbuiltin .nsw.gov.au; CamdenValley Way,Elderslie; nings of Australia’swoolindustry. sheep-breeding experimentshere, thebegin- beth Macarthur ranvaguelyFrankensteinian block suburbia. Inthe1830s,John andEliza- off theencroaching big-house-on-a-small- gardens andhistoricalsites bravely holding of agriculturea whiff intheair,town’s likesBruce Springsteen tosingabout. There’s country townwiththekindof mainstreet is anold-fashioned, rootsy,church-going About 50kmsouthwestof Sydney, Camden % Camden (just northof Camden). PenrithNorthern Rdbetween andNarellan eyeful bydodgingthemotorwayandtaking suburban girth.Youcanstillcatch arural lonelyplanet.com wards). Call forbookingsandtimes. wards). Call airport(champagne breakfastCamden after- flights child $295/180) Rothbury;adult/ 144WineCountryDr,North .balloonaloft.com; surrounds, plausible. entirely roos andwallaroos,itsclaimseems on 1000acres strewn with400lazykanga- the southernhemisphere. With4000species dens, claimstobethelargest gardenin botanic plant branch of Gar- Sydney’sRoyalBotanic h .gov.au; MtAnnanDr,Annan;adult/child/family$4/2/9; Annan BotanicGarden growth andhistory. Camden’s ‘working countrytown’displays capturing 4pm Thu-Sun) seum town’s historicsites. Heritage Walk information. Pickupacopyof the gles, underwhich thevisitors centre haslocal lar Caravan Park lar Caravan from $80) Elderslie; unpowered &powered sitesper2people$22, cabins John OxleyCottage For abird’s-eyeinspectionof Camden’s of offNarellanEast Camden, Rd, the Newly renovated Not farfromJohn Oxley Cottage, the 10am-6pm Oct-Mar, to4pmApr-Sep) 10am-6pm Oct-Mar, 02

( % , has plenty of tent-pitching spaceand mushrooming into thedawnfrom 4655 3400;40JohnSt;admissionfree; hasopeneditsdoors toreveal BalloonAloft runshour-long hot-airballoon

( BLUE MOUNTAINS pamphlet documentingthe %

Camden Historical SocietyMu- Historical Camden /fax 4658 0485; 21 Macarthur Rd, /fax 46580485; 21Macarthur ( % ( % 4648 2477;www.rbgsyd.nsw

4658 1370;www.camden ( % 1800 028568;www h , thenative- 9.30am-4pm) Camden h Mount 11am- Pop- , motel dressed inretreat’s clothing. meal atthe half-hourly) intoCamden. half-hourly) 896 (one-wayadult/child $5/3,25minutes, $9/5, onehour30 minutes,hourly). roughly (one-way adult/child Station Sydney’s Central 15 00;www.131500.com.au) Picton alongRemembranceDr. curry andgrilledCajun barramundifillets. ingly worldlymainslike breakfasts, coffee andsurpris- city-standard $8-15; Edge Café Cutting retreat.com.au; Dr;dfrom$110; 1665 Remembrance Retreat Waratah your walk,recover inasparoomatthe toric PictonWalkingTour. Ifyou’re tired after ist brochures, theHis- includingonedetailing Sts; Argyle &Menangle tors centre buildingsonupper Trust–listed are Still standing local houses. theNational causing asubsidenceproblem ortwoforsome days, stone that’sminedunderthehillsthese is entirely detourworthy.It’scoalratherthan – andbetterless trafficked lookingthanCamden Originally calledStonequarry, Picton –smaller, % Picton ways then child $7/4,onehour,half-hourly), (one-way adult/ toCampbelltown Station signs. Alternatively, take a F5 FwysouthfromSydneyandfollowthe andharrowabovethe plough theawning). mainstreet (lookfor family pubonCamden’s mains $18-27; gorges, gumtrees and gourmet restaurants ing scenery, fabulous bushwalks and more are theinvitation ends. Sweetening astound- climate relief fireside andnaughty week- ofthe sweltering plains withpromises cool- havetains luringSydneysiders been up from For more thanacenturythe Blue Moun- BLUE MOUNTAINS www.131500.com.au) In themorning,cheerily mainstream Inside theoldpostoffice, the If you’re take the drivingtoCamden, Debate itover andacountry-pub abeer From Camden, drive about20km southto From Camden, 02

h ( % breakfast &lunchWed-Mon) 4368 2277;www.131500.com.au)

( h % Argyle Inn Argyle lunch &dinner) 4677 3962;www.stonequarry.com.au;cnr

( train from Sydney’s Central trainfromSydney’sCentral ( % h % 9am-5pm) 4677 0699; 3/135 Argyle St; mains 4677 0699;3/135ArgyleSt;mains trainsruntoPictonfrom 4677 2121;www.whitewaratah

( % , aterracotta-roofed massaman 4655 8189;75ArgyleSt; CityRail has racksof tour- serves bigcooked serves Wollondilly visi- Menangle St Menangle CityRail bus895or

( % chicken 13 1500;

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. , a 13 AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY 120 0 10 km BLUE MOUNTAINS 0 6 miles LEMUTIS BLUE MOUNTAINS To Lidsdale (11km); Clarence A Bathurst (55km); B C D E F (115km) ὈὈὈὈὈὈWollemi Zig Zag National Park Lake Railway Mt Bilpin Lyell Lithgow Mt Wilson Irvine 32 Blue Mountains 40 Bells Line of Rd National Park 1 Bell 5 ley Bells Hart Vale Hassan Walls Panorama Line of Rd Point Lookout To Bathurst Rd Kurrajong (35km) Mt Tomah via Tarana 12 Mt York Botanic (1061m)ὈὈὈὈὈὈGardens 32 To Richmond Walls (17km) Cox’s Lookout Mt Victoria Grose River Pass Grose

River Mt Victoria Va Mt Victoria 2 lle (1043m) Hat Hill y (1035m) 18 River 2 Grose Mt Piddington 3 Vale Lowther (1092m) 19 Mt Hay Lookout (944m) ὈὈὈὈὈὈCreek Hat Hill Rd 14 Blackheath 10 4 Blue Mountains 1 National Hampton 7 Park Kanimbla 26 Valley Medlow entworth Bath W Hawkesbury 17 Lookout

11 6 Faulconbridge Hawkesbury Rd 24 Springwood ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈKatoomba Wentworth 32 3 Table 16 Leura Falls Mountain 8 Warrimoo Falls Great Western (1107m) Reserve Megalong 9 Megalong Rd Lawson Hwy 23 Woodford River 21 22 15 Megalong See Katoomba Blaxland To Oberon Valley Map (p124) 29 (10km) Jenolan 27 State Forest Euroka Glenbrook Jamison Red Hands ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈCaves Rd ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Valley Cave To Sydney lonelyplanet.com Narrow Neck 25 Cox’s (66km) (1072m) Jenolan

River Trail Blue Mountains 4 20 National The Park Oaks Fire Mulgoa Rd River m Jenolan u The Northern Rd d e

28 K Kanangra Boyd Blue Mountains Mulgoa 13 National Park National Park To Camden (33km); ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ Picton (50km) lonelyplanet.com Kanangra WallsPlateau encircled bysheer limestone caverns or check out theamazing intoa bushwalk,Caves. descend into Launch National Park ing tracks. Southwestof here is amongst thegreenery bushwalk- onestablished ery atthenumerous drive-up lookouts, orget Hwy. Absorb thepark’seye-popping scen- forest north andsouthof theGreat Western tains NationalPark the mostaccessible of which isthe arts sceneandactive publife. withArt Decocafés,anedgy the Mountain’, Wentworth Falls. Katoomba is the‘Kingof the laid-back and townsof Blaxland,Lawson Western Hwyfollowstheirroute through ans totraverse Today’sGreat themountains. were the firstBlaxland andLawson Europe- over of thousands years. In1813, Wentworth, riddled withvalleyserodedinto the stone plateau sandstone ney, risingtoa1100m-high mist of oilexudedbyeucalyptustrees. theirname comesfromafine the mountains viable. Thepurple hazethatgivesthan seems Valley OfTheWaters...... Sublime Point...... Ruined CastleRockFormation...... Pulpit Rock...... Norman LindsayGallery&Museum...... Megalong AustralianHeritageCentre...... Marge's Lookout...... Junction Rock...... ...... Hartley HistoricSite...... Hargrave's Lookout...... Govett's Leap...... Gordon Falls...... Explorers' Tree...... Evans Lookout...... Elizabeth's Lookout...... (see15) Coachwood GlenNatureTrail...... Cathedral ofFerns...... Bridal VeilFalls...... Blue GumForest...... Anvil Rock...... Blue MountainsHeritageCentre...... Murphys GlenCampSite...... Jenolan CavesHouse...... Jenolan CavesCottages...... Hawkesbury HeightsYHA...... Euroka ClearingCampSite...... Werribee TrailRides...... Wentworth Falls...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ D2 Perry's Lookdown...... The foothillsbegin65kminlandfrom Syd- There are three national parksinthearea, , accessible fromOberonor Jenolan BLUE MOUNTAINS Falls ••Glenbrook toWentworth , protecting large tractsof Kanangra Boyd Boyd Kanangra Blue Moun- 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 E3 A4 A4 F2 F4 C3 D3 D3 D3 C4 D2 E3 C3 F3 D2 A4 B1 C3 C2 D3 C3 D2 C3 D1 D2 D2 D2 C2 ( p118 ). Euroka Clearing atthe Richmond road condition updates andcollectpermits for Falls Reserve over a300mdrop–check themoutfrom selves launch aplumeof frayingdroplets majestic scenery: viewstothesouthopenout acrossthe get yourfirst real taste of BlueMountains it’sasweatyhikewheels, fromSpringwood. Unless youhave essential. rooms; reservations stone-slab 12intwinordouble table. Sleeps heater, ahuge kitchen andanamazingsand- tural framing,are rooms,awood comfortable valley views.Inside,beneathtree-trunk struc- adult/child $24/12) Heights; Rd,Hawkesbury www.yha.com.au; 840Hawkesbury friendly bush 8kmnortheastof Springwood,theeco- fabulous caféonsite too. colours, drawingsandsculptures. There’s a significant collectionof hispaintings,water- Faulconbridge; adult/child$9/6; 4751 1067;www.hermes.net.au/nlg; 14NormanLindsayCres, now the his deathin1969.Hishomeandstudiois works, lived inFaulconbridge from1912until art- famedforhissaucy Norman Lindsay, of writing)onGreat Western Hwy. Glenbrook NPWScentre atthetime (closed an easy,7kmreturn walksouthwestof the shelter with handstencils onthewalls.It’s contains NationalParkMountains southof Glenbrook ofviews backtoSydney.Thesection theBlue Lookout, near Glenbrook, there are super From Marge’s LookoutandElizabeth’s GLENBROOK TOWENTWORTHFALLS Rd, Glenbrook($7percar,walkers free). NationalParkthe BlueMountains atBruce bushwalking andnative critters aplenty. ness area (nearly500,000hectares) withrugged of Road,isthestate’s largest forested wilder- cliffs. and Clearing gorges, woodlands andrainforests. the sublime a networkof walking tracks,which delve into Entry to these parksisfree unlessyouenterEntry tothese Camp sites sites Camp As youheadintoWentworthFalls, you’ll A brick-and-ironbarnsproutingfrom the artist,authorand Celebrated Murphys Glen Murphys Wollemi NationalPark

(vehicle/adult/child $7/6/3) Hawkesbury HeightsYHA Hawkesbury Norman Lindsay Gallery &Museum Norman LindsayGallery Red Hands Red Cave . Valley oftheWaters

This is also the starting pointfor This isalsothestarting are accessiblebyroadat has solar power and sensational hassolarpowerandsensational nearWoodford. Checktrack/ . Wentworth Falls Wentworth , anoldAboriginal h , north of Bells Line Line , northof Bells near Glenbrook, nearGlenbrook, 10am-4pm) , withwaterfalls,

( % bon vivant bon vivant NPWS Office 02-4754 5621; 02-4754 5621;

witha them-

( Euroka Euroka % 121 02-

AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY below. Furthernorthis shadow-dance acrossthevastblue valley south of Onsunnydaystheclouds Leura. thumbs. art galleryandtearooms –amustfor green terraced lawns,freestone walls,amuseum, waterfalls,horticultural heartland.Fountains, Ave; adult/child $6/2; ( $12/6; .toyandrailwaymuseum.com.au; 36OlympianPde;adult/child Leuralla Sights &Activities gallery nextdoor. and Jenolan Caves tours andhasalocalart modation anddoor-to-door BlueMountains thiscentre booksaccom- enthusiastic staff, 121 TheMall; Gateway Leura Visitors Information daily touristinflux. rows of countrycraftstores andcafésforthe The chitecture andthesuburbanstreets oozestyle. minglewithcontemporary ar-Deco houses Victorianverandas.dens andsweeping Art around undulatingstreets, unparalleledgar- townfashioned isagracious,affluent Leura % LEURA 122 Woodford St;dfrom $185) Woodford ofLeura Sleeping &Eating happens in thefirst of week October. Festival Finding iteasybeing green, the Festivals Katoomba’s Echo Point. to Cascades Drive 4kmwestpastLeura Cliff trek thePrince Henry Track,or take the Cliff an idyllicpicnicspot.Fromhere youcan landscaper Paul Sorensen, to BobtheBuilder). thing fromBarbie (every- the model-railwayandtoymuseum leader andthefirst UNpresident. Kidslove ‘Doc’ Evatt, Party aformerAustralianLabor isamemorialtoHV lish gardens.Thehouse amid five mistyhectares of handsomeEng- Sep) % Sbie Point Sublime Designed inthe1930sbyfamous Danish 02 /pop4000 is a National Trust property and Leura’s isaNationalTrustpropertyandLeura’s 4784 1938; www.evergladesgardens.info; 37Everglades 4784 1938;www.evergladesgardens.info; Mall LEMUTIS • er BLUE MOUNTAINS ••Leura h (

% Toy & Railway Museum Toy &Railway 10am-5pm) , thetree-lined mainstreet, offers h 4757 2539;www.leuragardensfestival.com.au) 9am-5pm) is a dramatic clifftop lookout is adramaticclifftop

h is an Art Deco mansion set isanArtDecomansionset ( %

10am-5pm Oct-Mar, to4pm Apr- 10am-5pm Oct-Mar, ( From theHobbitesque % Runbyknowledgeable, 4784 2240; www.leura.com; 48 4784 2881;www.bmgst.com; Gordon Falls Reserve Everglades Gardens Gardens Everglades

( % Leura Gardens Gardens Leura 4784 1169;www , Indulgent rooms,spaciouscommonareas andbalconies. on Leura’s highestpoint(room11hasviewstoSydney). home St;s/dfrom$129/158)AgrandVictorian 7 Britain RediCAR day toFriday,three Saturday). adult/child $8/4,45minutes, five dailyMon- (one-way where includingLeura inbetween, to MtVictoria,stoppingpretty much every- runs fromValley Heights (nearSpringwood) tains BusCo child $12/6,twohours, hourly).The (adult/ toLeura Station from Sydney’sCentral Strathfield. the tolledWestern Motorway(M4;$2)at Sydney isviaParramatta Rd,detouringonto The direct from route totheBlueMountains Getting There&Around andtheDishes Loaves Leura House andmoodymusictopitalloff. service meat andfishdishes. Shimmying, black-clad swoon over fresh andsmoked, pastas braised is positively cultivated fussypalates –even fresh caféfare; thecuisine bynight serves It’s about1kmfromthetowncentre. discountsaresuites andlong-stay available. tles aroundalogfire. rooms,stylish Standard Sorensen extravaganza), periodfurniture jos- thestunninggarden(anotherPaulBeyond bathrooms, thisstylish B&Bisgenteel all over. Gothic entrancetothefittingsinpristine deli goodies in a curvy cornerDecocafé. deli goodiesinacurvy mains $10-15; an oldpostoffice. Bydaytheambienteatery mains $28-30; CityRail You canhire acarinValley Heights from Other recommendations: Restaurant Post Office highest peaks. bliss. Winter snowssometimes dapplethe tered buzz inwarm,windless valleys, insects days can be sunny,anddown intheshel- mospheric place. Despite thechill,winter aneerilyat- Katoomba autumn fogsmake any time:summerdays are hazy perfection; moted asacool-climate butvisit attraction, shiver The inKatoomba. mountainsare pro- sail theBlueMountains –swelter inCoogee, Be prepared for aclimaticshiftasyouas- CLIMATIC CONFUSION

( %

( h ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com h ( % % 4751 8920;www.redicar.com.au; 42 Great lunch &dinner) 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) breakfast & lunch) Wholesome, hearty breakfast &lunch) Wholesome,hearty 4751 1077; www.mountainlink.com.au) 4751 1077;www.mountainlink.com.au) 4784 2035; www.leurahouse.com.au; 4784 2035;www.leurahouse.com.au; ( %

( % 4784 3600; 180a The Mall; 4784 3600;180aTheMall; You guessed it,it’s Youguessed 4784 3976; 148 The Mall; 4784 3976;148TheMall; BlueMoun- runs noon Sat) Doctors byappointment. noon Sat)Doctors 3635; 143 Katoomba St; 3635; 143Katoomba $4/7; St;per30min/1hr [email protected]; 32Katoomba first 15minutesare free ifyouorderacoffee. need orwantliessouthof –the need thehighway Western visitors Hwy.Almosteverything will Katoomba’s grid layouthurdlestheGreat Orientation cafésandcampingsupplyshops. tween ofing abeard.Avaguesniff ‘herb’waftsbe- tobesmoking,wearingabeanieorgrow- seem Locals are beautifullydissolute –lotsof people geois, embracingandmenacing,allatonce. Katoomba manages tobebohemian andbour- people, bawdypubsandclassyhotels – buskers,taurants, artists,galleries,homeless views andaquirkymiscellanyof brilliantres- with ArtDecobuildings,astonishingvalley Swirling otherworldlymists,steep streets lined % KATOOMBA Western Hwy,Valley Heights; lonelyplanet.com Echo Point visitors centre Echo Point visitorscentre service. booking Lurline St; ( Service Blue MountainsAccommodation Booking TOURIST INFORMATION ping centre, Katoomba between andPark Sts. isbehindtheshop- toomba St.Thepost office There are numerousbanksandATMs onKa- MONEY &POST Centre Medical Katoomba Hospital Blue MountainsDistrict MEDICAL SERVICES BookExchange Katoomba ACCESSINTERNET Information truncates thesoft urbansprawl. where theJamison Valley’s dramaticplunge Three Sisters are at thesouthernendof town, Echofrom thetrainstation. Pointand main dragisKatoomba St,runningsouth h fax 47846730;cnrWoodlandsRd&Great Western Hwy; h 408; www.australiabluemountains.com.au; Echo Point; Sat) % from$69perday. 02 /pop18,000 24hr emergency) 9am-5pm) Sizable centre withcan-do staff. 4782 2857;www.bluemountainsbudget.com; 157 h 10am-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-6pmSun&Mon)The h 10.30am-5.30pm) Free accommodation BLUE MOUNTAINS ••Katoomba h h 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, ( ( ( % % % 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, tonoon 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 4782 9865, 1300 653 4782 2222;fax 4782 9997;katbook ( % 4784 6500; ($169 including lunch) and two-hour horse-riding trips trips horse-riding ($169 including lunch) andtwo-hour 5pm) Half-day abseiling ($135 includinglunch), canyoning St; .explorethebluemountains.com; 1Katoomba rock climbing (from$165)adventures. 5pm) Abseiling(from$135), canyoning(from$155)and 1271; www.bmac.com.au; L1, 84aBathurstRd; Australian School ofMountaineering Australian equals more dollars. cate easyorbeginnergrades;more advanced nies offer allof theabove. Pricesbelowindi- climbing, hikingand compa- cycling; several custom-made for seems The BlueMountains ABSEILING, CANYONING&ROCKCLIMBING Activities earning itthetitle gored bytermites andfilledwithconcrete, bushfire-ravaged amputated, stumphas been Tree Explorers’ notched the worth, BlaxlandandLawson cablecar floatingoutacrossthevalley. slope. Italsohasaglass-floored p120 ), thencatch thecablecarbackup track tothe 2.5km forest boardwalkorthe12km-return degree inclinetothevalleyfloor. Wanderthe theme, ridethe1880srailwaydown52- plex vibeandblaring return; air –arrive earlybefore theydo. fartingfumesintothemountain idling buses their vast, serenity-spoiling touristgaggles, mans. Bummer…Warning:Echo Point draws died before hecouldturnthembackintohu- advances of three youngmen,but thesorcerer sorcerer toprotect themfromtheunwanted the Three Sisters were turnedtostonebya towers over that thescene. Thestorygoes The impressive squabbling belowyouintheforest canopy. the Jamison Valley, white-winged cockatoos ing platformstransportsyourgazeoutover card is Katoomba’sthe trainstation), big-ticket draw- At thesouthernendof town (about 2kmfrom Sights Explore The Blue Mountains The Explore Company Blue MountainsAdventure YHA memberdiscount. courses($325). bushsurvival climbing ($165),andtwo-day 4.30pm) Full-day abseilingorcanyoning($145), rock St; 2014; www.asmguides.com; 166Katoomba 2699; www.scenicworld.com.au;cnrCliffDr&VioletSt;$16/8 Just westof Katoomba, intrepid trioWent- To thewestof townis h Echo Point 9am-5pm). Ruined Castle

to mark their trail. This sad, to marktheirtrail.Thissad, . A series of sensational view- of. Aseries sensational Ifyoucanstomach themega- Three Sisters Three Eucalyptus Raiders of the Lost Ark rockformation(Map Scenic World ( % rockformation

4780 0000; www concretus Scenic Skyway ( ( % % h h h

4782 ( 4782 % 9am- 9am- . 9am- 123 4782

AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ

AROUND SYDNEY 124 Hartley HistoricSite(21km) To ExplorersTree(1.5km); 4 6 1 3 2 5 Frank Walford KATOOMBA 8 Mt Victoria(18km); Blackheath (11km);

Cliff Dr Peckmans Rd

Park Railway BLUE MOUNTAINS ••Katoomba Katoomba Reserve Katoomba Falls Reserve Falls Katoomba ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ 18 Falls

W AC

Blue Mountains Cable Car arriga St

National Park Gates Ave Gates

Loftus St St Pine

Katoomba Falls Rd Falls Katoomba Neale St Bathurst Rd Bathurst

17

Cliff Dr Cliff Federal Pass Track Pass Federal Cascade St Cascade St 14 Edwards St Katoomba

32 Prince Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Harvey St Parke St

23 Main Henry Henry

30 11 24

28 27 Great Warialda St

West End St St 12

4 Cliff Cliff 6 B

Church Katoomba St W 7

Goyder Ave Goyder Katoomba St Birdwood 10 Gang

La es 31 Jamison

5

25 Track 22 3

Valley Ave Lilianfels Ave Lilianfels 13 te 21 19

1 rn

Gang 9

Panorama Dr Panorama Lurline St Hwy

Echo Point Rd Point Echo Lurline St St 29 ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

Vale St Coomonderry St Coomonderry 15

Oatley Ave Clissold St Clissold

Warwick St

Leichhardt St Leichhardt Waratah St Waratah Kurrawan St Merriwa St Echo Point 2 Lookout

Darley St Mimosa La Hospital (500m);Leura(2km); 16

Raymond Rd

Ada St To BlueMountainsDistrict Wentworth Falls(7km);

Cliff Dr Forster Rd Martin St Duff St Springwood (31km) Katoomba School 20 High Stephen St Sisters Point Three Echo 0 0 The York St

Cliff Dr Hope St Stairway

Giant Prince

Henry Cliff Walk Wilson St Wilson Carrington Lady Lookout

Lookout Tallawarra Kanimbla St Kanimbla

Megalong St

Lovel St Lett St Lett Lookout Honeymoon Cumberland St 26 Lila Falls

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Dardenelles Pass Track Bridal Veil Govett St Govett lonelyplanet.com Linda Falls

Lookout Cliff Dr D Blue Mountains National Park Leura Falls Lookout Killops 0.3 miles

Access Track 500 m To Leura

Leura Falls Creek (500m) (2.5km) Leura To ride backtoCircular QuayontheParra matta finishing witha ferry sights, Blue Mountains High’n’Wild MountainAdventures High’n’Wild damper andwhipcracking). (billytea, ($85), whichincludea‘StockmanExperience’ lonelyplanet.com of guided bushwalking around the main sights. of guided bushwalking around the mainsights. day trip (perperson $79)includes three hours tours, alsodeparting Sydney.Its Eco-scenic runs backpacker-friendly BlueMountains River. .au; daytours$85) Oztrails Departing Sydney, thereader-recommended Tours $150 perday,dependingonthedifficulty. rangecompanies listed. from$45to Rates ofbe arranged several theactivity through warm clothesinallseasons. weatherchangesMountain quickly,sobring collect (manylocalwaterways are polluted). Take plentyof water orboil/treat whatyou friend andtell someone where you’re headed. get lost –get reliable information, walkwitha broken experiencedwalkers countryandeven ( p128 ) supplieslonger It’srough, walkdetails. HeritageMountains inBlackheath Centre information onshort anddaywalks;theBlue south of Glenbrookisalsoworthwhile. Katoomba andeastof Thearea Blackheath. of Katoomba, Valley, orGrose northeastof is mandatory.Head forJamison Valley, south Unless theweatherisdire, amountain bushwalk BUSHWALKING and full-daycanyoning($150).YHA memberdiscount. Half-/full-day abseiling(from$90/135),climbing($109/169) St; www.high-n-wild.com.au; 3/5Katoomba Scenic Skyway...... (see8) Adventures...... (see6) High'n'Wild Mountain Fantastic AussieTours...... Explore TheBlueMountains.....(see6) Blue MountainsExplorerBus.....(see7) Company...... Blue MountainsAdventure Mountaineering...... Australian Schoolof Katoomba MedicalCentre...... Katoomba BookExchange...... Echo PointVisitorsCentre...... BookingService...... Blue MountainsAccommodation SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Guided bushwalkingorbushcraft tours can The Echo Pointvisitors centre ( p123 ) has

HQ Tours ( % 9387 8390,0411288805; www.oztrails.com wheels small groups around the smallgroupsaroundthe wheels

( BLUE MOUNTAINS ••Katoomba % 9666 8433; www.hqtours.com.au) 7186 5 4 3 2 1 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 C6 B4 ( % Shelton-Lea...... No 14...... Katoomba MountainLodge...... Katoomba FallsCaravanPark... Flying Fox...... Echo PointMotorInn...... Clarendon Guesthouse...... Backpackers...... Central BlueMountains Cecil Guesthouse...... Carrington Hotel...... Blue MountainsYHA...... 3 SistersMotel...... 3 ExplorersMotel...... Trolley Tours...... (see7) Scenic World...... SLEEPING h 4782 6224; 4782 6224; 9am-5pm) 9am-5pm)

with localfloraandfaunainremote mountain 4WD tours with a native wildlife and Aboriginal art focus. art 4WD tourswithanative wildlife andAboriginal half-/full-day toursperperson$95/175) safaris.com.au; guides, departing Faulconbridgeguides, departing Station. tourswithAboriginal person $95)Indigenous heritage daytoursper 822; www.bluemountainswalkabout.com; trolley, with piped commentary. Youcangettrolley, withpipedcommentary. Blue MountainsWalkabout land. Tours rundailyondemand. emphasis isonecosensitive interpretation of the areas onguidedbushwalksand 4WD tours. The .com.au; 2hr/daytours$35/185) a tourtoJenolan Caves (from$48). ticketa weekly (adult/child $21/18)andgoon Sun) child $15/12; is sights in thesame taking service day. Anotherhop-onhop-off loop, stoppingat30attractions.Tickets lastall onanhourlyKatoomba/Leura hop-off service St; adult/child$32/16; Bus runs thedouble-decker operates coach tours totheJenolan Caves and $63/43; tion atKatoomba YHA. Jenolan Caves andincludedormaccommoda- tours (perperson $239)visitthe Overnight .com.au) with townscheer themselvesBlue Mountains up Every year JuneandAugust,chilly between Festivals &Events Cool Safaris 1800 801 577; www.trolleytours.com.au; 285 Main St;adult/ 1800 801577;www.trolleytours.com.au; 285Main www.fantastic-aussie-tours.com.au; 283 Main St;adult/child 283Main www.fantastic-aussie-tours.com.au; Tread Lightly Eco Tours Eco Lightly Tread Also recommended: Fantastic Tours Aussie

. It’s a bus not so cunningly disguised asa . It’sabusnotsocunninglydisguised ( Yulefest % , an out-of-kilter Christmas celebration. Christmas celebration. , anout-of-kilter h 21 20 19 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 4782 4807; www.explorerbus.com.au; 283 Main 4782 4807;www.explorerbus.com.au; 283Main 9 8 tours 11.15am-5.15pmdaily,office9am-5pm) h A4 B4 C1 B2 A1 C5 B2 B1 B2 B2 B2 B5 B5 A5 ( %

( 9.15am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.45am-3.45pmSat& 9.15am-5pm Mon-Fri, % Velo Nova...... TrisElies...... Edge Cinema...... Clarendon BandRoom...... (see15) Hotel Gearin...... Carrington Bar...... Solitary...... Savoy...... Paragon Café...... Niagara...... IsoBar Café...... ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING TRANSPORT 4735 3977,0438353162; www.cool 4782 9865, 1300653 408;www.yulefest h TrolleyTours

9.45am-5.15pm) (

% ( % gives youencounters Blue Mountains Explorer Blue MountainsExplorer

4788 1229;www.treadlightly Tours 4782 1866,1300300915; ( %

( % , ahop-on 0408 443 4782 7999, 23 29 28 27 26 25 24 22 31 30 125 B2 B1 B1 B1 B1 B1 D3 B2 B2 B2

AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY camping option. mixed from travellers, butthe only Katoomba reviews ered sitesper2people$25/32, cabinsfrom$75) Gets .bmcc.nsw.gov.au; Falls Katoomba Rd;unpowered/pow- chilled-out vibe. anda 105-year-old house,with upbeatstaff,goodsecurity people/dm/d $24/22/60; 190BathurstRd;unpowered sitesper2 flyingfox.com.au; breathing it,andpolished spaceifyouneed plenty of nooksandcranniestofindsome tel feels like acheery share-house. There are key withhippyovertones, thiscolourfulhos- chine, openfires, pool tables, agiantchess set, includeapinballma- than bums.Highlights commonareasbright; have more beanbags Dorms andfamilyroomsare spotlessly hostel beliesitscavernous, sparklinginnards. austere ArtDecoexterior of thismuch-lauded explain this. tobe anursingfact thatitused home may script inanursing homekindof way.The andcleanrooms, butfeels nonde- security has anindustrial-sizedkitchen, excellent 2005, thisgargantuan hostel nearthestation Rd; dm/s/d/ffrom$22/50/65/120; 9630, 1800287370;www.centralblue.com.au; 144Bathurst style doublesare comfyandprivate. tering carpets.Dormshave three beds;attic- floorboards make change apleasant fromfes- the topfloorrooms. of town,withastoundingviewsfrom someof ily run90-year-old inthemiddle right house for thebest-value roomsintown.It’sacheer- $18/42/58; toombamountainlodge.com.au; 31Lurline St;dm/s/dfrom MountainLodge Katoomba BUDGET Sleeping welcome thewinter solstice. parade, market andgeneral stalls frivolityto Festival Magic Winter Festivities reach apaganpeakatKatoomba’s 126 Katoomba Falls Park Caravan Katoomba Flying Fox Hard tofault. central heating,barbecuesandcurry nights. naff timberpanellingarenaff thepriceyou’llpay readers –hysterically uncoolwallpaperand Lovel St;dm$22,dwithout/withbathroom$59/66) au; 207 Katoomba St;dm/d/ffrom$24/73/116; au; 207Katoomba Central Blue Mountains Backpackers BlueMountainsBackpackers Central Blue MountainsYHA No 14 Some alternatives include: LEMUTIS • aoma BLUE MOUNTAINS ••Katoomba

i ( % ( % ) Thisplacegets agoodrapfrom 4782 7104;www.bluemts.com.au/no14; 14 4782 4226,1800624226; www.the on21June,withastreet i ( % ) Small,laid-backhostel ina 4782 1416;www.yha.com. ( % ( is % 4782 3933;www.ka 4782 1835; www ) Openedin i ( % Low- ) The 4782 $80/90/130) Affablehosts;roomswithorwithout views. www.echopointmotel.com; 18EchoPointRd;s/d/f from proliferation; NRMA, RACandAAA memberdiscounts. Lurline St;s/d/ffrom$79/90/155; Funky roomswithlessfunk. retro neonsign;serviceable St;s$65-95,d$90-120; .com.au; 348Katoomba lead-lighting bythekilo.lead-lighting Wayromantic. areas, plusclassytouches like oldradiosand Three bedroomseach have theirownsitting of ArtDecomake thisB&Bastylish choice. andmarooncoloursmustard withasplash Paragon Café Paragon Café Eating utterly opulent. indulgent; thediningroomand ballroomare character remains Therooms are intact. truly refurbished,inch hasbeen butitshistorical ing road-wearytravellers since 1880.Every accommodat- hasbeen mark, theCarrington toomba’s socialand architectural high-water St;dinclbreakfast $190-485) .au; 15-47Katoomba Hotel Carrington TOP END Motel 3 Sisters Motel 3 Explorers Echo PointMotorInn days? these to write homeabout, butwhowrites letters toEchotels Point.Theirdécorisnothing close Lurline St;rwithbathroominclbreakfast $110-170) court ifyou’re feeling Federer. breakfastdoes anddinner,there’s atennis Thediningroom you won’tbedisappointed. lounge rooms–putcharacter before ritzand floorboards, unrenovated wallsandkooky Towers hascreaky kindof way,old Cecil $75/80, d$84/106) St;swithout/withbathroom .au/cecil.html; 108Katoomba room ( opposite ). way upthestairs fromtheatmosphericband exterior suggests. Convivialvibessnake their the newermotel extension issnazzierthanits shared bathrooms)are charmingly old-school; and heavy oncharacter. Originalrooms (with rambling oldClarendon onceremony islight from $45/65,d$90/130; guesthouse.com.au; 68Lurline St;swithout/withbathroom Guesthouse Clarendon MIDRANGE 20; There are ship-shapemo- three affordable, Shelton-Lea Cecil Guesthouse Cecil h breakfast &lunch) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( %

( ( Rakishly dilapidated inaFawlty Rakishly % %

( % ( 4782 2928; 65 Katoomba St;mains $10- 4782 2928; 65Katoomba %

4782 9883;www.sheltonlea.com; 159 4782 2911;www.threesistersmotel ( % 4782 1111;www.thecarrington.com (

% 4782 1733;fax1146;197 The heritage-listed 1916 ( % 4782 1411;www.ourguest.com a 4782 2088,1800024879; 4782 1322;www.clarendon motel only; ai ) Floral print ) Floralprint is a Moss, ) Ka- ) The and fish at night. Monthlydinner-and-showand fishatnight. a twistduringtheday,scrumptioussteaks too: gourmetburgers, with andsalads pastas vegetarian-friendly diner. Thefoodisfab wooden booths embellishthisgay-/family-/ cornices, oversized tilesunderfootandlarge h Niagara smiles tofaces. roast zucchini, garlicandred winejusbring lime andchilli, andkangaroosirloinwith sive disheslike pan-seared barramundiwith lowerandthemenulifts–progres-the lights burgers,pastas, Atnight focacciasandsalads. h experience.Blue Mountains surroundsisacompulsory in thesalubrious masterpiece. Samplingcoffee andchocolates Paragon isKatoomba’s undisputed ArtDeco lonelyplanet.com a game of pool. a$5 steak for abeer, or excuse good enough hole. It’sownedbyactor Jack Thompson– a Katoomba’s bestwatering attheGearin, night Thu, to3am Sat&Sun,10am-10pm Sun) 273 Great WesternHwy;admissionfree; and-show tickets cost$30extra. Clarendon band room. Dinner- Guesthouse atthe theyusuallystruttheirstuff enough), est musiciansare intown(which isoften h BandRoom Clarendon Entertainment essential. are reservations service; Excellent sexy. right bug ravioli are inventive; are desserts down- andscallop andMoretonper sausages, Bay dining.Mainssolitary like venison andjuni- stockintrade –nottheplacefor Solitary’s sublime foodandinescapableromance are h and salads. include Turkish toasties,burgers, stir-fries ing –asfunkyKatoomba gets. Tasty staples chilled vibes,ambienttunesandmoody light- name,thiscaféhumswith hackneyed IsoBar $17-23; taculars. Cabaret ($55)are Nights sequin-soaked spec- (we love booths), andisperfect forday-time donguesthouse.com.au; 68Lurline St;admission$15-50; Savoy Hotel Solitary IsoBar Café lunch Sat&Sun,dinnerWed-Sun) breakfast, lunch&dinner) live musicThu-Sunnights) lunch &dinner) h

( ( Gearin % %

breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % 4782 3845; 26-28 Katoomba St;mains$11-19; 4782 3845;26-28Katoomba 4782 4001;92BathurstRd;mains$13-26; ( % 4782 1164;90CliffDr;mains$26-33; ( % High ceilingswithornate High BLUE MOUNTAINS &Around ••Blackheath 4782 4063; 40 Katoomba St;mains 4782 4063;40Katoomba 4782 4395; www.gearinhotel.com; 4782 4395;www.gearinhotel.com;

( WhenAustralia’s fin- % The Savoy hasbooths 4782 1322;www.claren To-die-for views, h Gear upfora Gear Despite the 7am-2am Mon- petite (MapBlackheath p120 ). Thetownstill siderably 10kmnorthof Katoomba inneat, The crowdsandcommercial frenzy fizzlecon- BLACKHEATH & AROUND Taxis notes left,call with acafécoffee. Drive, finishinggroup ridesrunalongCliff up all-terrain bikes. mountain Saturdaymorning Sat, 9.30am-4.30pmSun) St;half-/full-day$28/50; Katoomba tous routes Katoomba through andLeura. Bus day toSaturday).The dailyMon- adult/child $9/5,onehour,seven Friday) andSpringwoodtotheeast (one-way child $7/4,40minutes, fourdailyMondayto from MtVictoriatothenorth(one-wayadult/ .mountainlink.com.au) way adult/child $12/6,twohours, hourly). (one- Station toomba fromSydney’sCentral CityRail Getting There&Around Cheap-ass Tuesday)–$9formostfilms. child $15/10).Tuesdayisdiscountday(aka called tary plus a40-minutedocumen- BlueMountains The Edge screens current mainstream flicks .au; 225Great WesternHwy;adult/child$13/9; Bathurst Rd;admissionfree or$15depending; (admission $5). nights box. There’s upstairs onSaturday anightclub ricochetingand Guns‘N’Roses offthejuke- the placeforshooters, schooners, pooltables lowbrow wingof theupper-crust hotel, thisis 1.30am Mon-Thu, &Sat,to11pmSun) to4.30amFri St;admissionfree; .com.au; 10-16Katoomba Hat HillRd, are and tains) Falls Veil Bridal Valleys. andMegalong forvisitingtheGrose base andit’sanexcellent scenery stakes, though, measures upinthe accommodation,foodand red-painted bunker atthetopof thetown. Thu-Sun) If it’slate andyou’ve gotafew beer-soaked TrisElies Bar Carrington Velo Nova The East ofEast town are lookouts at Edge Cinema 15) and (p125)

( % BlueMountainsBusCo

Jazz, reggae, DJsandskainablood- ( % 4783 1311)

Evans Lookout Evans 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) The Edge (

% ( % (the highest in theBlueMoun- (thehighest

Trolley Tours Katoomba-Leura-Wentworth Falls Katoomba-Leura-Wentworth 4782 4026; www.triselies.com.au; 287 4782 4026;www.triselies.com.au; ( % 4782 2800;www.velonova.com.au; 182

. ( services Katoomba enroute services % Pulpit Rock rents outhi-tech, 24-speed, 4782 8900;www.edgecinema.com onagiantscreen (adult/ 4782 1111;www.thecarrington Blue Mountains Explorer Blue MountainsExplorer . To the northeast, via h ( p125 ) tracecircui- , ( Perry’s Lookdown 9am-5pm Mon&Wed- % 4751 1077;www Govett’s Leap Govett’s runstoKa- h h h 10am-late) 8pm-3am 9.30am- The 127

,

AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY to 8pmFridaynights. gourmet sideof 6pm thetracks.Winetastings pubnoshonthe lunch anddinner)serves Downstairs theswishybistro(mains $16-20, pub roomsupstairs harkbacktodaysof yore. thebasic hotel (1832)intheBlueMountains; thisistheoldest Station, from Blackheath 255 Great Western Hwy;s/dinclbreakfast $45/80) Inn Gardners Sleeping &Eating spectively, fromthebusstops. Evans Lookout are 6kmand4kmwalks,re- of Govett’s butPerry’s Leap, Lookdown and take youtowithin1km two Sunday).Buses 12 dailyMondaytoFriday,fourSaturday, south (one-wayadult/child $7/4,25minutes, daily MondaytoFriday)andKatoomba tothe (one-way adult/child $6/3,15minutes, four Rd enroute fromMtVictoriatothenorth Rd,EvansLeap LookoutRdandHat Hill .mountainlink.com.au) minutes, hourly). (one-way adult/child $13/7,twohours 15 Station fromSydney’sCentral to Blackheath tionalparks.nsw.gov.au; Govett’sLeap Rd; Centre Mountains Heritage and get trailconditionupdates fromthe from and Megalong Valleys, views withspectacular Forest (sixhours one-way). Junction RockcontinuingtotheBlueGum to Govett’s leap(1½hours one-way)andto Forest (five hours one-way)tothemagical ofLookdown isthestart theshortest route ValleyGrose fromGovett’s Perry’s Leap; and 128 mountains ablazewith personality:mountains decent the the simple things well without setting ple $23/28, cabinsfrom$45) EdwardSt;unpowered/poweredPrince sitesper2peo- plunge-style spas. designed; thedeluxe modelshave Japanese vertical-weatherboard cabinsare jauntily into onetofind it. One-andtwo-bedroom inthe bottlebrush you’llhavedeeply tobump ecocabins are these lodgedbush setting, so ard/deluxe cabinsfrom$150/199) 336EvansLookoutRd;stand- .jembyrinjahlodge.com.au; Blackheath Caravan Park Caravan Blackheath The CityRail To thewestandsouthwestlieKanimbla Jemby-Rinjah EcoLodge Jemby-Rinjah Anvil Rock LEMUTIS • eaogVle BLUE MOUNTAINS Valley ••Megalong . FromEvans Lookoutthere are tracks Hargrave’s Lookout Hargrave’s BlueMountainsBusCo

( %

( % . There are walksintothe steep 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) 02-4787 8347;www.gardnersinn.com; services Blackheath, Govett’s Blackheath, services This small park does This small parkdoes

. Register yourwalk (

%

( % Inasequestered ( ( % % 02-4787 8877;www.na 02-4787 7622;www 02-4751 1077;www /fax 02-4787 8101; h 9am-4.30pm) Blue Gum Across runs Blue . style. Where’s Britt Ecklandwhenyouneedher? style. Where’s Britt $80; 281Great WesternHwy;dfrom heathmotorinn.com.au; sandwiches, filos,antipastos,coffee andwindowseats. Leap Rd;mains$5-12; cottages. cottages. roomsand two self-contained guesthouse from $195) 2 people/dm $24/20,dinclbreakfast $85,4-bedcottages tivities duringschool holidays. per person $45/85),plusfarmshows andac- There’s (one/twohours guided horseriding ducks,poniesandalpacas. feed and patsheep, agri-heaven forlittletackers – visitors can child/family $8/5/20; Rd;admissionadult/ 4787 8188;www.megalong.cc; Megalong cliffs. sandstone sun-stained ping fern of ashand dells, stands mountain Trail Nature pockets of rainforest. The600m road snakes through downfromBlackheath along theridgeline. Anamazinglywell-surfaced a real departure fromthequasi-suburbsstrung Valley. Thisisstraw-coloured ruralAustralia, gorgetains fromtheinsideisin Megalong aBlueMoun- theonlywayyou’llsee Railway, Unless youwalkinortake Katoomba’s Scenic MotorInn Blackheath Altitude Delicatessen takes centre stage. Bookingsare essential. flavour inalava-coloured room.Thekitchen fooderuptingwith urbaneeaterytan, serves bestrestaurant,Mountains’ thiscosmopoli- $32; food isgreat andthere’s asunnypatio. and burgers. Politicalinclinationsaside,the organic breakfasts, wraps, soups,cakesserves Mementoa socialconscience,colourfulCafé withaworldviewand Injecting Blackheath Govett’s Leap Rd;mains$5-15; orPerry’sLeap Lookdown(packlightly). Valley.Grose It’sasteep descentfromGovett’s at AcaciaFlat, Valley, forwalksintotheGrose ient base and down, which hasacarparkandisconven- cabins. facilities,good-value camp sites, serviceable The The Other recommendations: Vulcan’s Memento Café There are free campsites atPerry’s Look- a h Megalong Australian Heritage Centre Heritage Australian Megalong ) Clean,snugmotelroomswithfunky‘60schalet lunch &dinnerFri-Sun) Farm Accommodation comprises basicdorm beds,B&B comprises

, 2kmbefore features Werribee, drip- ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

near theBlueGumForest inthe 02-4787 6899;33Govett’sLeap Rd;mains

h ( % h ( 9am-5pm) ( % 02-4787 5123; cnr Wentworth & 02-4787 5123;cnrWentworth breakfast &lunch) Zingydeli % h 02-4787 6199;20Govett’s 02-4787 8788;www.black Arguably theBlue breakfast &lunchThu-Tue) isadisplayfarm

(unpowered sitesper Coachwood Glen Coachwood Glen

( % 02-

Bar Cottage 1914 bed. Otherinteresting buildingsincludethe andNedKelly’sportraits, taxidermy sister’s vict relics, oldfarmequipment,maps,photos, chock-full of quirkyAustraliana. Gawkatcon- Station;adult/child$3/50c; Railway the toric buildingsare whatyou’re here for. crisp air,solitude,toweringfoliage andhis- – towninthemountains it’s thehighest more influentialthanKatoomba. At1043m, National Trust–classified Mt Victoriawasonce With itsremote, unadulterated village vibe, % MT VICTORIA ‘Pub Crawl’ride! toatwo-day/one-night adding yourweight thearea pioneer-styleto suiteveryone. See by $30/78; Rd;30min/2hrrides Megalong ralianbluehorserides.com.au; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com pub grub. open breakfast, lunch anddinner) cooks solid garden,and thekitchen (mains$16-24; beer has live musicandlogfires, there’s astellar upstairs they’re grand andgracious. Thebar mile. Downstairs rooms are budget andbasic; is thebestpubin thearea, byamountain from $129/139) 1 StationSt;dm$25,d without/with bathroominclbreakfast Imperial Hotel Sleeping &Eating to Friday). child $6/3,15minutes, fourdailyMonday Mt VictoriafromKatoomba (one-wayadult/ Co 30 minutes, hourly).The tion (one-wayadult/child $14/7,twohours Sta- to MtVictoriafromSydney’sCentral crossing. 1813mountain Lawson’s commemorating Wentworth,Blaxland and ering of monuments,plaquesandstructures Thursday morningtickets are $6! releases shimmer acrossthescreen;art-house piano playeranddoorprizes.Mainstream and tobe’,withushers,is cinema‘thewayitused a adult/child $9/7; ( % Nothing is far from the train station, whereNothing isfarfromthetrainstation, TrailRides Werribee CityRail at thehighway Off Inside anoldpublichall, ( 02 /pop870 % 4787 1577; www.bluemts.com.au/mountvic; Hartley Ave; Hartley 4787 1577;www.bluemts.com.au/mountvic; Mt Victoria Museum Museum Mt Victoria Victoria & Albert Guesthouse &Albert Victoria h 4751 1077; www.mountainlink.com.au) 4751 1077;www.mountainlink.com.au) 10am-5pm)

( and the1874 % This grand,castellated olddame

h ( % 13 1500;www.131500.com.au) noon-10.30pm Fri-Sun, from10amThu) noon-10.30pm Fri-Sun, 4787 1878; www.hotelimperial.com.au; 4787 1878;www.hotelimperial.com.au; offers horse-riding packages

Mt York ( % ( % St Peters 02-4787 9171;www.aust BlueMountainsBus h 4787 1210; Mt Victoria 4787 1210;MtVictoria isasurreal gath- Mount Vic Flicks MountVic 2-5pm Sat&Sun) , the1849

Church BLUE MOUNTAINS ••MtVictoria runs to . runs Toll is

from $17/12/44; .org.au; CavesRd; admissionwithtouradult/child/family Jenolan dytic of Kanangra BoydNationalPark, thetroglo- Southwest of Katoomba onthewestern fringe JENOLAN CAVES Hwy 5kmeastof Hartley. Followthesignsoff theGreatsential. Western cooking isworththedetour. es- Reservations the munificentFrench-influencedbecause 2-/3-course meal$65/75; call intotheInn’s cottage. guestrooms andaself-contained sumptuously renovated 1823innwithelegant Vale Rd;tw/dfrom$155/185,cottage$260) Hartley Courthouse or take aguidedtourof the1837 Church is intheold www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; has acuriouscropof historicbuildings. townstill ghost thistiny,sandstone deserted, itin1887.Now ing untiltherailwaybypassed northwest of MtVictoria, the village flourish- atHartley,police postwasestablished 11km became anissue. Tocounter theproblem,a with beingbailedupbybushrangers soon moral andphysicaldiscomfortsassociated the coast ahelluvalot easier. the However, Mt Victoria)madetravelling inlandfrom In the1830sVictoriaPass route (through HARTLEY HISTORICSITE and artichoke lasagne. has asmallbutinventive menu;trythepesto dinner byarrangement; bookingsessential) The restaurant (mains$24;openlunch and rian wardrobe, ArtDecofittings,oraveranda. hasadashofhouse perhapsaVicto- heritage; the 13en-suite roomsinthisvintage guest- .com.au; MontgomerySt;dinclbreakfast $155-230) and adventure ($58,1.15pm daily) tours. ($32,8pm Saturday)the 2½-hour ghost warren. More comprehensive tours include tour packages traversing asurreal 10-cave caves tookshape 400 millionyears ago. ‘Dark Places’,by the Gundungurratribe, systems intheworld.Named most extensive andcomplexlimestone cave Collits Inn Even ifyou’re notstoppingovernight House Manor The You must take a tour to see them,various You must take a tourtosee Jenolan Caves Jenolan (1848).Youcanexplore Hartley forfree NPWS InformationCentre

(tours perperson$6;

Farmer’s Inn h ( %

9.30am-5.30pm; ( 02-6355 2072;www.collitsinn.com.au; %

( % h 4787 1369;www.themanorhouse restaurant 02-6359 3911;www.jenolancaves lunch Fri-Sun, dinnerThu-Sun) lunch Fri-Sun, (1845)near h h 10am-1pm &2-4.20pm) p

hourly 10am-3pm)

( ( $5) % % Binoomea, isoneof the Greek Revival Revival Greek 02-6355 2072; 02-6355 2117; St Bernards Each of 129 isa or .

AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY ( p123 ) before youattempt anything. the Echo Pointvisitors centre inKatoomba fortwohorses topass.Consult wide enough with therailways,‘SixFoot’refers toits width– encumbered). Builtasabridletracktocompete day hike (twodays ifyou’re hyperactive orun- the Jenolan Caves isafairly challenging three- Oberon. through fromthecavesdaily, runningclockwise out one-way system 11.45amand1.15pm between Hwy. ThenarrowJenolan Caves Rdbecomesa fromSydney andKatoomba.tour details quickly.See all tours, astheysell-out p125 for caves are asonicrevelation. Bookaheadfor .com; adult/child$38/20; Classical concerts 130 Jenolan Caves House Caves Jenolan take aShining might to,thefabulously eerie $145-180) Caves Rd;cottagessleeping 6-8people$90-125,BellbirdCottage tages caves management, including all withbushy views. beautifully renovated Cottage, 1930s Bellbird cottages andthe self-contained comfortable, Looking like somethingJack Nicholson with Most localaccommodation isaffiliated The caves are 30kmfrom the Great Western The 42km gently zigzagging downtheprecipice. It’sa1½-hourreturn trainride. was designedtobringtheGreat Western tracksdownfromthemountainstoLithgow, Railway .au; BellsLineofRoad,Bilpin;adult/child/family$4/2/9; the villageis is allhedgerows,European trees andmansionswithbiggates anddriveways. About1kmfrom withitsguesthousesandcoolcafés,MtWilson Katoomba was settledbyAnglophiles,butunlike exploding fromthefoliage–analmostunbearablyserene 10-minute stroll. spectacular 90km spectacular The Great Western Hwybarrels straightthroughtheBlueMountains,butifyouhave timethe BELLSLINEOFROADDETOUR: mover circlesonthehour. including magnificentrhododendrondisplays. Manyareas are wheelchairaccessible;apeople- climate annexe ofSydney’sRoyalBotanicGardens. Native plantscuddleuptoexoticspecies Station, BellsLineofRoad;adult/child/family$20/10/50; becomes BellsLineofRoadbeyondRichmond. Bilpin, andloftysceneryallthewaytoLithgow. aroundbountiful viewsfromthemountains’eastern slopes,orchardsandroadsideapplecarts andLithgow.It’sfarquieternavigating apassbetweenRichmond thanthehighwayand offers 19-year-old whodiscovered theroute in1841, in1823,theroadwasconstructed byconvicts

LEMUTIS • iho BLUE MOUNTAINS ••Lithgow ( One forthetrainspotters, the M Wilson Mt Between BilpinandBell, Rdwest,which Richmond fromSydneyonWindsorRdthentake To gethere, headnorthwest % about8kmnorth of thecaves –four 02-6359 3911; www.jenolancaves.org.au; Jenolan 02-6359 3911;www.jenolancaves.org.au; Jenolan Six FootTrack

(www.mountwilson.info) ( % h Cathedral ofFerns

Bells LineofRoad 1300 763311;www.georgcello ( % 4pm Sattwicemonthly) 02-6359 3322;www.jeno fromKatoomba to Jenolan Caves Cot- Caves Jenolan Mt Tomah BotanicGardens Mt Tomah Zig ZagRailway is 8km north of Bells Line of Road. Like Katoomba, thistown Katoomba, ofBellsLineRoad.Like is8kmnorth , awetrainforest remnant withtree ferns andnative doves is farmore rewarding. Namedafter ArchibaldBellJnr,the in the h

h ( % .tourism.lithgow.com; cnr Cooerwull Rd & Great Western Hwy; cnrCooerwullRd&Great WesternHwy; .tourism.lithgow.com;

3km fromthe towncentre; the bedspreads leymotel.com.au; 45 Cooerwull Rd;s/dfrom $55/66) Lithgow Valley Motel Sleeping &Eating Region Fishing Guide Mountain Bike Riding inLithgow h lantern-shaped in thesurrounding hills.Themega-helpful bikingorfishing formountain a handybase (alotofemployment offices both),butmakes agrarian workingtownwithasmany pubsas at the1952Helsinki Olympics.It’sasombre, Flash’ –the100mand200mgold medallist coal andMarjorie Jackson –aka‘The Lithgow Lithgow isfamousforproducingawholelotof In thewestern foothillsof theBlueMountains, % LITHGOW opulent. The guestroomsrange fromtraditional to House Lodgetain motel doublesare modern,Caves and tastes. six,Moun- Gatehouse dormssleep $95-185, guestroomd$65-295) CavesRd;dm$25,moteld lancaves.house.com.au; Jenolan & dinner) 11am, 1pm&3pmdaily) 10am-4pm Apr-Sep, to5pmOct-Mar) 10am-4pm Apr-Sep, 02-6355 2955; www.zigzagrailway.com.au; Clarence 02-6355 2955;www.zigzagrailway.com.au; 9am-5pm) 02 /pop21,000 serves tradEnglishfare. serves

( % books accommodation and has free books accommodation andhasfree Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 02-4567 2154;www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov restaurant visitors centre visitors centre

( % pamphlets. , 10kmeastofLithgow,

(mains $25-28; 6351 2334; www.lithgowval caters toallwallets ( % isthecool- 6353 1859;www and h Lithgow Lithgow About breakfast CityRail Getting There&Away since the’70s.Onefeed willlastyouaweek. madeandAustralianshaven’tnever made inch-thick, pizzastheItalians lead-weight cut frommagazines.Itbakes thekindof two- toppedwithfloraldecoupagetimber tables humble, main-street trattoriawithhomemade $12-22; enading aroundtheadjoiningpaddocks. birdlife prom- andtheoddsheep effervescent pointshereselling are loadsof openspace, road fromtheLithgow Valley Motel, themain ered sitesper2people$16/21,cabinsfrom$50) 58CooerwullRd;unpowered/pow- gowcaravanpark.com.au; with splendour. ing great-value, clean,old-stylemotel rooms here are thebrightest thingsinLithgow, fill- lonelyplanet.com themselves on theirchattering main streets, Bothtowns pride green andlofty self-esteem. an English hamlet, with teahouses, avillage Bowral playsatbeing with rural sensibilities; other. isabroad, functionaltown Mittagong mented bytheirsteady intoonean- bleed municipalepicentre,Highlands’ ce- astatus and Mittagong % Bowral form theSouthern MITTAGONG & BOWRAL AREA shops andhistoric buildings. accented bybeautifulEnglish gardens,antique from theHumeHwyretain agentrified air, townscoilingaway door, buttheHighlands and stonearchitecture. grassy slopes,broodingpines,distinct seasons old worldmanifesting inalandscape of itself withthe than Australianfarmers, theiraffinity themselves asEnglishlandedgentry rather toregardAustralia’s historyforthesettlers villages. in Theirarrivalwasearlyenough make wayforagriculture andEnglish-style native foliage thescruffy promptly levelled to first inlandareas byEuropeans,who settled The wasoneofSouthern Highlands the SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS hourly). (one-way adult/child $18/9,three hours, Station to Lithgow fromSydney’sCentral Papadino’s Pizzeria Papadino’s Pizzeria &Van Park Lithgow Tourist Modern Australiahascrept intheback 02 /pop17,000 h

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( % 6353 1455; 65 Main St;mains 6353 1455;65Main ( % 6351 4350;www.lith Papadino’s isa Acrossthe trainsrun ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ even cricket-loatherseven admitisworthwhile. Ashes andDon-centricmemorabilia that 5pm) .au; StJudeSt,Bowral;adult/child/family$9/4/22; ofCricket Museum in Bowral.Fans payhomage atthe cracking cover drives andgraftingcenturies Sir Donald Bradman (aka‘TheDon’)started tothethresholdLegendary, of sainthood, Sights the area indetail. of the Southern Highlands ing. Pickupacopyof andfree accommodation book- staff serious Sun) St,Mittagong; Main 2888; 1300657559;www.southern-highlands.com.au; 62-70 The Information tar lookouts take thescenicroutetagong, viathe reds.autumnal russet and mature deciduoustrees thateruptinto (25km) To Goulburn Caves (42km) To Wombeyan HIGHLANDS SOUTHERN 31

Wollondilly River If you’re BowralandMit- drivingbetween isacapaciousinformationcentre with , which hasanengrossingcollectionof Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Southern Highlands visitorscentre Southern Highlands Burragorang Thirlmere Lakes National Park National Lake

Hume Hwy Nattai Park

Tallong forexcellentvalleyviews. Shoalhaven Wingello Thirlmere Bundanoon 31 Sutton Forest Exeter Mittagong h

Berrima Penrose ( Moss % Vale 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to4pmSat& 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 4862 1247;www.bradman.com Camp Site River Bargo Twin Falls; Bowral 89 Glenquarry Craigie Mt Gibraltar Visitors Centre Fitzroy Falls; Glen Glow-Worm Park Entrance Picton (7km) 48 (864m) 89 To ($8)which covers

Hume Hwy 31

Illawarra Hwy Old Hume National Morton

6miles 10km 0 0 Hwy NPWS Park Burrawang To Sydney Nepean R ’ s Visitors Map Hamden (80km) To Wollongong Robertson Kangaroo R Bridge

(40km) Entrance Park Macquarie Pass National Park To Wollongong Mt Gibral-

National Park Bradman Kangaroo h To Budderoo ( 88 79 Reservoir Valley % To Nowra

Ὀ Ὀ Avon Belmore To Berry 10am- Falls (25km) (22km) (23km) (12km)

131 4871

80 AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY Mittagong), this old boozer seems tobeina thisoldboozer seems Mittagong), andmegalithic (thebiggest thingin beery s/dfrom $40/60) Old HumeHwy,Mittagong; and playground. facilities includebarbecues,golfpracticenet ins offer theusuallinoleumbedazzlements; foliage andspotstoparkatent. Spotlesscab- Bowral, thisspaceycaravan parkhasplentyof cabins from$47/77) unpowered/powered sitesper2people$18/24,caravans/ WillowDr,MossVale; .mossvalevillagecaravanpark.com.au; Park Caravan Moss Vale Village Sleeping wine enhancethemood. activities andplentyof fineregional foodand Merrigangoff St.Jazz, folkdancing,cultural CorbettGardens, through attendees tiptoeing this floralextravaganza is alwaysasuccess, .net.au) ral Tulip Time Festival Bowral bursts intovividhuesduringthe overFor twoweeks andOctober, September Festivals Bradman Oval. ral’s mainstreet, nexttothewhite-picket ed The m isacoupleofuseum blocks eastof Bow- 132 Mittagong Hotel Mittagong is, after all,ateam game. measure ofthe man’scharacter thathe didn’tplayanother matchtoboosthis average. Cricket would have been 100-plus hadhenot beendismissed foraduck(0)inhis lastinnings. It’s a best-ever side,SirDonald retired thesameyear with aTest battingaverage average of99.94! His spirit ofanentire nationafter WWII.Captain ofthe1948 Test team, stillregarded asAustralia’s 1928 and1948.Affectionately knownas‘Our DonBradman’orsimply‘The Don’,he lifted the England wontheAshes but lostalegion offans – Bodylinewaseventually outlawed. is not.’Bradman’sbatting average fell to 56.57,amassive slide fromhisdomesticaverage of150. uttered hisfamous words,‘There are twosides outthere. theother Oneistryingtoplaycricket, the 1932–33Ashes Test series. After Australian captainBillWoodfordwasstruck onthechest,he temple, ordefend legsidefielders. withthebatandspoonacatchtovulture-like opposition. The Australians ballinthe wouldbefaced withaterrible acricket choice:collect thendeliveringaround thelegsideofwicket, fast,head-high‘bouncers’ atthehelmetless ‘Bodyline’, specificallytoplugBradman’s run-scoringvolcano. Bodylineinvolved crowdingfielders 1930 Test series. EnglishcaptainDouglasJardinedevisedacunning planknownas Shell-shocked the tank,mature Dondazzledtheworldwithhisballeticfootworkanddevilishly good eye. ball againstacorrugated metalwater stumpasabat. After tankusingacricket manyhoursby agolf coordinationbyspanking in NSW’sCentral Westin1908,young Donaldtunedhiseye-hand Sir Donald Bradman wasthegreatest hasever batsmancricket seen.BorninCootamundra( p280 ) THE DON OTENHGLNS • itgn orlAe &BowralArea SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Mittagong Bradman’s vengeance was sweet andmerciless:19Test centuriesagainstEngland between Bodyline wasviciouslyeffective, several Australian batsmenreceiving seriousinjuriesduring humblingEnglandwithhiswitheringbattingduringthe party, Bradman crashedworldcricket’s . Rich soilandacoolclimate ensure AtMossVale, 11kmsouthof

(

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( % 4868 1099;www Roomy, Bow- coloured motelwithan‘Everyoneknowsme!’manager. this?Aclean,affordable,bong-water- up anamelike Argyle St,MossVale; s/dfrom$75/95)Howcanyoupass A solid overnight option next to the Southern Highlands totheSouthernHighlands A solidovernightoptionnext r$105-185; .com.au; OldHumeHwy,Mittagong; ( GrandCountryLodgeMotel Best Western Bong Motel O.with acapital access. Gooddisabled isaqualitymOtel cool. Fear not–PortOCall tobuyin1985whentheywanted tobe used tooned withthekindof abstractartthatmums isfes- central andimmaculate, thePortOCall Bundaroo &BongSts,Bowral;r$69-115) and whodunnitweekends are aspeciality. Devonshire teas peer… facesmight unseen pines andanynumberof windowsfromwhich mournfully wanderingpeacocks,windinthe creepy anddistinguished, withlavish rooms, Robertsonmanages wee tobesimultaneously rinclbreakfast $55-150) .com.au; IllawarraHwy,Robertson; with ensuite) upstairs. NSW flagandtidy,good-value rooms(most andcountrymusicdownstairs;table fluttering constant state ofconstant renovation. Pubmeals,pool This commandingEnglish manor(1924)in % PortOCall MotorInn PortOCall House Ranelagh Other recommendations: 4871 3277,1800815923;www.highlandsnsw Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (

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road 65kmnorthwest of Thesur- Mittagong. the end of anequally convoluted mountain Getting There&Away truckers like andpassers-through you. hungryhordesofand satisfy localfarmers, andsteakthekitchen pasta flythrough bistro. Plates withchips, piledhigh schnitzels, gonofurtherthanthelocalpub in Mittagong, tagong; mains$15-25; the whiskyprawns. of tosuityourlevel customised tolerance. Try ries, stir-fries andnoodledishes, withchilli cur- simmeringsoups,tasty Ouddy serves amongst Bowral’stea-and-cake conservatism, pocket of spicySoutheastAsian adventure Bowral; mains$11-19; House Ouddy Thai Eating nice touch. visitors centre. Thevirginalwaternymphfountainisa lonelyplanet.com $16/10/39; Caves Rd;admission adult/child/family $13/8/30,withtour ( The convoluted limestone WOMBEYAN CAVES child $14/7,twohours, hourly). roughly andBowral(one-wayadult/ tion toMittagong via Bundanoon. hour 30minutes, three daily),somerunning and MossVale (one-wayadult/child $9/6,one .countrylink.info) .com.au) $40, 2½hours). .au) and (adult/child $21/17,2½hours),service 14 99;www.greyhound.com.au) operating fromSydneyare visitors centre Companies inMittagong. stopattheSouthernHighlands Hwy buses Vale Hume andRobertson. Long-distance area Moss withthecoast,runningthrough of TheIllawarraHwylinksthe Mittagong. Sydney. Bowralis10minutes’ drive south 1½hoursposits youinMittagong, from A shortdetourfromtheHumeHwyde- day andSunday). 15 minutes, frequently fourSatur- weekdays, Vale viaBowral(one-wayadult/child $4/2, .com.au) % Mittagong Hotel Mittagong Berrima Coaches Berrima with a twice-daily service (adult andchild withatwice-dailyservice 02-4843 5976; www.npws.nsw.gov.au; Wombeyan Firefly trains run from Sydney’s Central Sta- trainsrunfromSydney’s Central toMoss fromMittagong hasaservice h ( 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to4pmSat &Sun) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, % runs buses between Wollongong between runsbuses 1300 730740;www.fireflyexpress.com h SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••WombeyanCaves

CityRail

( ( ( % h % % CountryLink lunch &dinner) 4872 2255;89OldHumeHwy,Mit- 4871 3211;www.berrimabuslines lunch Mon-Sat,dinnerdaily) 4861 5554;238BongSt,

( % , withaonce-daily 13 1500;www.131500 Greyhound Greyhound Wombeyan Caves

If you’re hungry ( % 13 2232;www are at ( % 13 A

rounding bushland ispartof anationalpark tion Centre tion Centre isanexcellent courthouse Gaol. Insidethe still-functioning Berrima neoclassical ings here –make itanovernight indulgence. there are somefirst-rate foodandwineoffer- pines. Ifyou’re after more than justlunch, stores, beneathtowering noddingsalutations historicbuildings andtourist-trap between the town’splaid-cladcountrygents shuffling the town. rangers therailwaybypassed andeventually this route soonbecameinfested withbush- west of Unfortunately theBlueMountains. stopover enroute tothewide brownlands Founded in1829, blossomedasa Berrima % BERRIMA coming cars, especiallyonweekends. hours Watch fromMittagong). outforon- stretch –very scenicbut hasanarrow,precipitousMittagong 45km From Sydney,theroadwindingwestfrom volves only4kmof narrow,windingroad. Goulburn– route isquickest andin- munal kitchen. there’s alsoakioskandwell-equippedcom- powered sitesper2people$15,cabins$68-90) Reserve Wombeyan Camping stone Canyon off afterwards intheswimmingholeat stalactites ascend).Cool descend,stalagmites the cave system (pre-empting theargument: roamof pendent, youcantake aself-guided tour onweekends. Ifyou’re resolutely inde- withanextra10.30am 2.30pm onweekdays, mown lawns,poplars andpines. caves themselves are inashadyvalleywith with walkingtracksandplentyof wildlife; the the wax mannequins andsoundtrack). firstthe courthouse’s trial(complete with 30 early settlers, bushrangers, andamock-up of There’s also informationonprisonhistory, show aboutharsh early-19th-centuryjustice. h .au; cnrWilshire &ArgyleSts;adult/child/family $6/4/15; The pick of Berrima’s buildingsisthe1838 The pickof Berrima’s You canpitch yourtent nearbyatthe The Near thebanks of the Wingecarribee River, These days Berrima is heritage-classified, isheritage-classified, daysBerrima These orMelbourne,From eitherCanberra the Berrima District Museum District Berrima 10am-4pm) 02 /pop880 guided ( % . , which screens a15-minute slide Berrima Courthouse Berrima

4877 1505;www.berrimacourthouse.org tour isusuallyat1pmand

( %

( Museum &Informa- Museum % really 4877 1130; cnr Market 4877 1130; cnrMarket 02-4843 5976;un- , nexttothe slow(two , where

Lime-

133 AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY just stepped theCobb&Co. off feel likethis friendlylocal;youmight you’ve Getting There&Away Great coffee too. fine china andrestored antiquefurniture. each openfireplace, withamagnificent table, inprivate diningrooms, the cooking,served dinner). French andAsian overtones inform rant (mains$17-24;openbreakfast, lunch and kangaroo rumpisgrilledtoperfection. can justaboutdrive) onwhich yoursirloinor There’s alsoafancybarbecue(thekindyou inventive pubfare (great Thaifishcakes). is definitely 21stcentury,dishingupmodern, $60-80) OldHumeHwy;rwithoutbathroom .com.au/surveyorgeneral; Inn General Surveyor Sleeping &Eating couch-bound coffee bythewoodfire. frompugdogstopolitics)witha (everything bookworms theirfill.Absorb yourselection and antiquated tomestogive thebiggest of secondhand ney bookshops, stocksenough 5pm Sat&Sun) .com.au; OldHumeHwy; louw’s BookBarn&Café tinuously operatinghotel (aren’t theyall…). Inn General internees. Nearbythe WWI German school &publicholidays) Pl &BryanSt;adult/child$4/free; 134 puted guesthouse capital, though thetrees though now capital, puted guesthouse undis- town. Oncethe Southern Highlands’ just1kmfrom the and walking tracksstarting Park the northern escarpments of Bundanoon’s mainappealisits proximity to % BUNDANOON & AROUND four daily). rima (one-wayadult/child $8/4, 15minutes, .com.au) Coaches Berrima canoe hacked 320 canoe outbysomeof Berrima’s of whichlection, thehighlight isatree-trunk etc), butmostpeopleare here fortherestau- B&B rooms(cushions, dressers, towels fluffy pubhas fourtasteful en-suiteold sandstone .com.au; Market Pl;s$70-135,d$80-150) .com.au; Market The Inn’s White Horse Inn White Three kilometres northof Berrima, 02 /pop1965 –gorge yourself onlookouts orbicycle OTENHGLNS • udno rud SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Bundanoon&Around There’s of areal authenticityat sense buses run between Bowraland Ber- runbetween buses claimstobeAustralia’soldestcon- , abranch of thefamousSyd- bistro

( %

( h %

houses alocalhistorycol- houses (mains$16-23; ( % 4871 3211;www.berrimabuslines

9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am- 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, ( 4877 1204;www.whitehorseinn % 4877 1226;www.highlandsnsw 4877 1370;www.berkelouw h 10am-4pm Sat&Sun, h Morton National Morton This gorgeous lunch &dinner) Surveyor Surveyor Berke-

(technically your national park entry fee). trance. The carpark here costs $3per vehicle near Fitzroy Falls themselves atthe parken- parks.nsw.gov.au; Nowra Rd,Fitzroy Falls; NPWS visitors centre walkandhaveposed achat withthefriendly chaotic area – before yougo,record yourpro- pies inthevalleys below.It’sageographically of droplets dapplingdownontoforest cano- launch waterfalls over their edges, torrents hectares. Vertigo-inducing cliffs sandstone area covering intheBudawang Range, 162,386 Park National Morton NATIONAL PARKS at Macarthur. tochangeminutes, sixdaily);youmayneed (one-way adult/child $16/8,twohours 30 .au) Moss Vale. isvia hours, twicedaily);theearlierservice longong (one-wayadult/child $12/8,two twice daily).Trainsalsoarrive here from Wol- noon (one-wayadult/child $21/15, twohours, andBunda- Station link Sydney’sCentral CountryLink Getting There&Away contender. $19/30). Thebananabread isaheavyweight ply whilerenting outbicycles(half-/full-day and caféregulates sup- thetown’scaffeine St; mains$10-15; on. snooker tograzesheep isbigenough table diningroom.The sunny gamesroomandspiffy windows, four-poster beds,openfireplaces, a extravaganza, Treetops features stained-glass & dinner$150-350) outside forthekidstoget intotrouble. are family-sizedandthere’s oodlesof room and gallonsof Thefamilyrooms gingham. shady , commodiouscountrykitchen cially called‘Lynbrook’),complete withdeep, ously restored (offi- Edwardianguesthouse $28/64/96) Ave;115 Railway unpowered siteper2people$31,dm/d/f Bundanoon YHA Sleeping &Eating the region’s prettiest andmostsecluded. outnumber thebipeds,village isarguably post office, thisbikepost office, shop(sorry,shoppe) .treetopsguesthouse.com.au; 101 Railway Ave;.treetopsguesthouse.com.au; 101Railway dinclbreakfast Ye Olde BicycleShoppe Treetops CountryGuesthouse Treetops trains run from Sydney’s Central Station Station trainsrunfromSydney’sCentral Bundanoon’s YHA occupiesafastidi-

( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com % CityRail CityRail h Adinner,bedandbreakfast 13 2232;www.countrylink.info) ( % breakfast &lunch)

isavast,unrulywilderness ( ( % % 4883 6010;www.yha.com.au; 02-4887 7270; www.national 13 1500;www.131500.com

( %

( 4883 6043;9Church % h Nexttothe 4883 6372;www 9am-5.30pm) trains

p331 forwalkingdetails. is thenipple-shaped William StinBundanoon.Inthepark’ssouth walkfromtheendof after dark)isahalf-hour The are 1kmfromhere alongtheeastern track. boulders below.Thelesswell-known liberated waters smashingintoarabble of sible or Braidwood. (surrounded bythepark)frombothNowra There’s alsotheroadrunningtoSassafras Tallowa DamRdfromKangaroo Valley. at Bundanoon,FitzroyFalls andviathe dedicatedyou’ll need topographicmaps. in thepark($2to$7).Forlonger bushwalks be paidhere andthere’s alsoguidestowalking neartheBundanoonentrancecan per night) fees forthe Camping Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com pected the atmosphere. belching fromthe coastfailtoruin through 1920and 1980. Evenbetween thecoaches bakery andgeneral store, feels lostsomewhere of Kangaroo Valley with itsoldpub, itself, with itssurrounds, theslowcountrytown gums andgurgling creeks. Inperfect harmony carpeted bycow-dotted pasturelands, river rainforest-steeped thevalleyflooris cliffs, Kangaroo Valley. Pegged inbyafortress of picturesquedeposit youintheunbelievably ment, theroaddescendingalarmingly to disappears over theedge of asteep escarp- Heading southfromFitzroyFalls, theworld % KANGAROO VALLEY Friday), continuingtoNowra. child $4/2,30minutes, 9.30amMondayto Moss Vale toFitzroyFalls (one-wayadult/ 7596, 0403040029;7FlindersRd,Nowra) day toFriday). adult/child $5/3,20minutes, fourdailyMon- 813 fromMossVale toBundanoon (one-way Jamberoo nearKiama. both isfromRobertson tothenorthorfrom Centre Rainforest Minnamurra tracks. Onthewestsideof theparkis ing yetmore waterfalls, lookoutsandwalking Park isthe smaller On thenortheastedge of MortonNational Beyond spectacular, the wheelchair acces- thewheelchair spectacular, Beyond roadsthataccess theparkareThe closest The formal entry tothe valleyis theunex- To get toMortonNationalPark take bus 02 /pop350 Glow-Worm Glen Fitzroy Falls Hamden Bridge Kennedy’s BusService Kennedy’s plunge 82m,the astaggering Budderoo NationalPark (atitsmostglowing-est Pigeon HouseMountain camp site (1898), afew kilometres ( p325 ). Accessto (adult/child $5/3 runsfrom SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Kangaroo Valley SOUTHERNHIGHLANDS••Kangaroo

( % Twin Falls 02-4421 offer- ; see ; see

dearth of plasticfurniture (shame about the ing nooksare andthere’s intact anexquisite retain itslocalcharacter. Theoriginaldrink- country boozer, ever-so-subtly renovated to nocturnal life revolves aroundthisclassic get toorough. but there’s anundercover barbecueif things acampfireYou canlight here too(ararity!), ing theimpression of campingoutinthewild. for tents. Trees andducksproliferate, enhanc- andaginglino,pluslush river-flatTVs lawns Glenmack has26cabins,allwithkitchenettes, $16/20, cabinswithout/withbathroom$50/70) 215 MossVale Rd;unpowered/powered sitesper2people Glenmack Park Sleeping &Eating $75/105 perperson). campingtrips(two-/three-day tripscanoe the . Italsorunsovernight provides transportto/fromspecifiedpointson rents outone-tothree-person and canoes roovalleycanoes.com.au; 2210MossVale Rd;fullday$35-60) ($30/50). bikes $25/50)andmountain (half-/full-day rigorous activities.Italsohires outcanoes which combiningvarious youdesignyourself fers consciousguidedtours, environmentally Moss Vale Rd;tourshalf-day$30-80,overnight$65-75) ( and Kangaroo Rivers. bushwalking active with structed dairy. homestead, blacksmiths forge andrecon- tion of historicalbuildingsincludesan1860s rural life inthelate 19thcentury.Acollec- providesmuseum avisualencounter with ). Easter-Sep Fri-Mon 11am-3pm Easter, Rd; adult/child/family$4/3/10; MossVale1306; [email protected];HampdenBridge, to thebridge isthe one-way lane,17mabove theriverbed. Next stone-and-iron suspensionstructure, witha north of thetown.It’sacastellated sand- ble life asthe valleypost office, thisroadside $6; a slewof veggie, fish and chicken dishes. includes steaks of monstrous proportionsand pokies inthecorner). Styled-uppubnosh mains $15-25; % h Kangaroo Valley Safaris Kangaroo Old Store Old Store Friendly InnHotel Friendly If thesceneryisboringyoutotears, get 0404 807 991; www.kangaroovalleyescapes.com.au; 0404 807991;www.kangaroovalleyescapes.com.au; breakfast &lunch) ( h % inandaroundtheShoalhaven

canoeing ( lunch &dinner) 4465 1360;2167 MossVale Rd;piesaround % 4465 1372; www.glenmack.com.au; 4465 1372;www.glenmack.com.au; Leading aclandestine dou- Leading

Pioneer Museum Park Pioneer Museum ( % , 4465 1355;159MossVale Rd; Kangaroo Valley Escapes Kangaroo

h ( mountain biking % Kangaroo Valley’s 10am-4pm Fri-Mon Oct- 10am-4pm Fri-Mon 4465 1502;www.kanga This walkabout Sprawling

( % and 135 of- 4465

AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY trodden, redneck vibe conspires tokeep things bushcurlingoverdense thehills,butadown- place, withsuburbiakept atbaybywaves of Coast’slargestthe Central town.It’s a pretty cific Hwy, Gosford (population154,000) is ofAt thebase inclinebelowthePa- asteep GOSFORD &AROUND of foodandglidesilentlyoverhead. huge pin-eyedbirdspaddlearoundinsearch Looking about asgainlyjumbojets,these pelicans make forunpretentious company. of thecrowds,andlocal spacetoevade like Tamarama. Don’tworry–there’s plenty in their4WDsandattimesTerrigal looksmore winter. Duringsummer,city-slickers converge suburbs thatthintoskeletal populationsduring lifestyle andsurf–amidbeachy –sun,sand alongside first-rate surfbeaches. national parks,aroundsaltwater lakes and through nected byscenic roadsswerving offrom Gosford,aseries smalltownsiscon- Australia.good about coastal Heading north Ocean totheeast,isadistillationof allthat’s the Pacific HwytothewestandPacific The sun-stroked Coast,corralled by Central COAST CENTRAL ing toNowra. minutes, 9.30amMondaytoFriday)continu- garoo Valley (one-wayadult/child $6/3,45 BusService Kennedy’s Getting There&Away aworldbeater.tion isindeed flaky butter-crust, itssteak andred winecrea- withthefillingindeliciously pies’. Lavish store whatare sells allegedly the‘world’sbest 136 own company, butthey dohave overflowing to mostly enjoytheir by volunteers who seem h St; 200Mann 2353, 1300 132 975;www.cctourism.com.au; the the train station, Nextto andpolicestation. banks, hospital of the Pacific Hwy, which hosts thepostoffice, Gosford’s mainstrip isMann St,anextension Orientation &Information you’ll bebetter inTerrigal off ( p138 ). supermarkets it’sfine, butforamealorbed as unremarkable aspossible. Forbanksand Flinders Rd,Nowra) Central Coasters liveCentral thedefinitive beach 9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pm Sat) 9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, ETA OS • Gsod&Aon CENTRAL COAST ••Gosford&Around runsfromMossVale toKan-

( % visitors centre 4421 7596,0403040029;7

( % is staffed is staffed 02-4323 the Sydney–Newcastle Fwy at the Calga in- the Sydney–Newcastle Fwyat theCalga Girrakool; travel west from Gosford orexit larger thegroup,lower therate. a minimum requirement of 10 people–the $75) person $66,half-daybushwalking ( courses are provided by of the Pacific Hwy onWoyRd. Bulgandry Engraving Site Aboriginal engravings, the mostimpressive galleryof which isthe stone Guringai and wildflowers park isfamedforits explosions of spring only ashort BrisbaneWater frontage. This outcropsandforestmostly sandstone with DespiteWater itsname,theparkis itself. eastwards fromthePacific HwytoBrisbane tional Park 9km southwestof Gosford, On thenorthsideof theHawkesbury River, BRISBANE WATER NATIONAL PARK park’s eastern edge. National Trust–listed hamletonthenational road, is the steep MtEttalong the UminaandWoyhousing estates by Lookout rah there are silvery Broken viewsfrom Bay picnic andbarbecueareas. ing isn’ttoostrenuous, andthere are grassy and 100nattering birdspecies.Thebushwalk- fullofrainforest wallabies, reserve wallaroos Wed-Sun, also6-9.30pmWed-SunNov-Jan) adult/child/concession/family $12/6/10/30; Sanctuary tralian Rainforest theday. throughout andtalks sessions conduct regular feedingimpassioned staff and kangaroos.Conservation- las, platypuses all magnitude,andlesstoothybeastslike koa- inlizards,snakesspecialises andcrocodilesof $20/10/52; Pacific.reptilepark.com.au; Hwy,Somersby;adult/child/family the get acquainted withcold-blooded localsat kilometresThirteen westof Gosford,youcan Sights &Activities local nationalparks. h www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; Suite36,207AlbanyStNorth; brochure racks.The .australianrainforest.com.au; Ourimbah Creek Rd, Ourimbah; Creek Rd,Ourimbah; .australianrainforest.com.au; Ourimbah % South of BrisbaneWater NationalPark, There are more cutiesandfurriesatthe The main national park road access is at The main nationalparkroad accessisat Rock climbing,bushwalking andabseiling 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 02-4363 2028;www.bushworks.info; 2hr abseilingper Reptile Australian h

. Notfaraway,butscreened from (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au) 9am-5pm) . Abushoasis,thepark NPWS Office Office NPWS provides permitsfor Central CoastBushworks Central

( ( % % . There’s generally Brisbane Water Na- Water Brisbane 02-4340 1022;www lonelyplanet.com 02-4362 1855;www ( % Pearl Beach , 3kmsouth h , aprivate 02-4320 4200; 10am-5pm extends War- Aus- , a

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lonelyplanet.com in the park. Cruises in therear carriage. to get to travel atWondabyne andyouneed off Great NorthWalk). Tell theguard ifyouwant walkingtracks(includingpart of several the Sydney–Newcastle line,isinsidetheparknear terchange. onthe Wondabynetrainstation, McDonald R McDonald 4 1 3 2 5 CENTRAL COAST ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ National Yengo Park ( p114 ) runfromPalm to Patonga Beach Wollombi Laguna AC Wisemans Ferry Dangar IslandFerry Service Bucketty Hawkesbury River St Albans To Cessnock CENTRALCOAST ••Gosford&Around (1km) (25km); Windsor To PittTown Palm Beach & Hawkesbury River River Palm Beach& Hawkesbury (31km) SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Ten MileHollowCampSite.. Tallow BeachCampSite...... Mill CreekCampSite...... Little BeachCampSite...... Gentlemans HaltCampSite... Warrah Lookout...... Old GreatNorthRoad...... Bulgandry AboriginalSite...... Australian ReptilePark...... Sanctuary...... Maitland BayCentre...... armraCekCm ie.B5 Marramarra CreekCampSite.. Australian Rainforest

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137 AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND AROUND SYDNEY camp site camp site information andthere’s campingat gar, Milson,ScotlandandLionIslands). (Dan- andFour Islandcruises Wine-tasting AskWater cruises. about theirlessfrequent 10.40am) Woy Public Wharf child/concession $25/12/19; DaneDr;adult/ .starshipcruises.com.au; GosfordPublic Wharf, The historic Tours Bay Dr&TheScenicRd; ( has vehicular access. The which oneithersideofsections PuttyBeach, two to thevariousbeaches. Theparkcomprises is limited butthere are walkingtracksleading prohibited inmuch of thepark.Vehicle access fishing is Also includedisamarinereserve; to Box Head, Broken northernentrance. Bay’s 138 hourly). ford (adult/child $10/5, 1½hours, atleast Sun) Sts; & Melbourne Budget ney–Newcastle Fwy. Rentacarhere from Gosford iseasily accessiblefromtheSyd- Getting There& Away Mann St; Mann run from Sydney’s Central Station toGos- Station run from Sydney’sCentral from $69 perday. through the Gosford NPWS Office ( theGosfordNPWS Office through p136 ). ($5/3) and % CityRail route in‘Discovery form($12). Kit’ Lands libraries stockcopies. The and Leigh Shearer-Heriot, isoutofprint,but Walk be trampedinanyseason. adequate greenery alongthewayanditcan awildernesswalk,there’sWhile notstrictly ral bushlandtheentire waytoNewcastle. ferryand, after ride,followsnatu- ashort This 250kmtrailbegins incentralSydney Newcastle? The Walkawaits!Great North Ever fromSydneyto considered walking GREAT NORTHWALK h Rd,Sydney;.lands.nsw.gov.au; Albert 1Prince 02-4360 2833;www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au; cnrMaitland or ETA OS • Tria CENTRAL COAST ••Terrigal The besttrackreference, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

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lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright theterms andconditions onoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,or resell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake .com.au; 87TheEntranceRd;s/dinclbreakfast $50/100) motorboats (from$30perhour). ($15 perhour),rowboats($20 hour) and rents outaqua-bikes ($20per hour),canoes The EntranceRd; bridge, pelicans are the fed dailyat3.30pm.Beside beachfront nearby,the(voracious!)resident four-hour localtours ($55perperson). Onthe h hire perhalf-/full-day$15/35; bike www.bikehiretours.com.au; their disposal. buthaveconfused, awealthof informationat Pde; 4430, 1300132975;www.visitcentralcoast.com.au; Marine andthegrindingsurfbeach. Lake reallyeveryone’s here forbeautifulTuggerah of Entrance isthe‘pelicancapital Australia’,but Entrance Hotel The volunteers atthe beaches; 1hrlessoninclequipment$40) per boat$500/700) .com.au; 25 Broken BayRd,Ettalong,toursadult/childfrom$95/50) .com.au; 25Broken Lake Cruises the coast. Dive perperson$110/88) charters afternoon spotting andmorningtea, pelicanfeeding andtwilightdinnercruises. Charters ters andApril.Ask betweenOctober aboutseasonal cruises. whale-watching from $23/10/61) The Central Coast’s inland lakes and surf surplusgenerates plentyofaquaticactivity. The Central andsurf Coast’sinlandlakes WATERTAINMENT provides learn-to-dive PADI dives coursesandescorted forexperiencedsubmariners. lesson inclequipment$45) trips forall-comers. 9am-5pm) h If youwanttogetmore intimate withthewater, eta Cat Charters Coast Central 9am-5pm)

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AROUND SYDNEY SYDNEY AROUND