Our blind panels tasted 113 new-release Focus and dolcetto from for this issue. Stephanie Johnson, our critic for the wines of , Piedmont Barbera rated 25 as exceptional (90+) and 12 as Best Buys. find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at & Dolcetto wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

BARBERA 92 I Vietti $47 young barbera. Suave tannins wrap around 2017Barberad'AstiLaCrena This barbera juicy black and red berry tones infusedwith 93 I Vietti $47 offers flavors of warmed raspberry and notes of dark chocolate and subtle spice. 2017 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Scarrone blackberry layered with notes of anise and Dynamic acidity propels the flavors,drawing Selecting fruit from the Scarrone molten chocolate. Those decadent flavors them into a long, balanced and vibrant finish. in Castiglione Falletto, Luca Currado meet La Crena's velvety tannins and dovetail Vias Imports, NY ages this in a mix of large casks, with bright acidity to keep the wine vibrant barriques and stainless-steel tanks. It's bold and balanced on the long, smooth and fully 91 I Massolino s21 and concentrated in the warm 2017 , dry finish.Dalla Terra, Napa, CA 2019 Barbera d'Alba Franco Massolino violet-scented and brimming with flavorsof vinifies this wine in stainless steel, giving juicy raspberry and blackberry-deep, dense full expression to the juicy raspberry and and vibrantly alive. For a wine that seems to black-cherry flavors brightened by notes push the limits on alcohol, acidity and fruit of orange zest. This barbera weighs in at a concentration, it's impressively balanced and relatively lithe 14 percent, earning it a place elegant. Dalla Terra, Napa, CA at the dinner table beside plum-glazed roast p r I O r e pork. Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL 92 I Ca'Viola S45 barbera,...._ d'alba ____•vpertore 2016 Barbera d'Alba Bric du Luv 90 I Fratelli Alessandria s24 Vines planted in 1950 yielded a densely _.,,11,, ...... _ - 2019 Barberad'Alba This wine comes from ...... 1 �� .. lll\111 concentrated, vibrant wine in the moderate Melf"(l)C,1:14, 8!�!� l>XMl!.�Q two estate plots in Verduno, and it expresses 2016 growing season. This barbera's flavors the high-toned characteristics typical of of ripe raspberry and blackberry are 91 I Fratelli Alessandria $35 this village in its flavors of juicy red plum, layered with notes of licorice, bittersweet 2017 Barbera d'Alba Priora Vittore raspberry and orange peel. Its supple tannins chocolate and warm spices. The wine aged Alessandria selects fruitfor this barbera from and mouthwatering acidity make this a for 18 months, mostly in large oak casks, estate in Verduno and Monforte crushable wine, with or without food.North developing supple tannins and hints of d'Alba. The vines, averaging 35 years of Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA tobacco and underbrush that balance the age, gave a concentrated wine in the warm rich fruit tones. Banville Wine Merchants, NY 2017 vintage, packed with flavors of black 90 I Diego Conterno s25 cherry and blackberry, licorice and white 2019 Barbera d'Alba Ferrione Diego and pepper. He ages the wine in a mix of French Stefano Conterno make this barbera with tonneaux and large Slavonian casks, but the fruit from a single, high-elevation plot of JJ,,tf-.,,, penetrating fruit tones show no obvious signs vines, some a half-century old. They age ✓-✓-lllr, of wood, only hints of tobacco and smoke the wine in large oak casks and cement �·,,,, that linger on the finish. North Berkeley tanks, emphasizing the vivid raspberry Imports, Berkeley, CA and blackberry flavors. Brisk acidity surges �t through the fruit tones, trailing light spice 91 I Cascina Ebreo $56 notes as the wine moves toward a fresh, e\..iwli..r:u.. 2015 Vino Rosso Segreto Gianluca herb-inflectedfinish. North Berkeley Imports, MASSOLINO Colombo makes this barbera from an acre of Berkeley, CA organically farmed vines in Novello's Ravera 92 I Massolino S5s cru. He ferments it spontaneously, then ages 90 I Conterno Fantino $43 2017 Barbera d'Alba Gisep This powerful the wine fortwo years in large Austrian oak 2018 Barberad'Alba Vignota This rich and barbera comes fromMassolino's 40-year-old casks. It shows some initial funkyaromas and layered barbera is a blend of from five vines in Serralunga d'Alba. Its concentrated will benefit fromdecanting, but its exuberant vineyard sites in Monforte d'Alba. It aged in flavors of blackberry and raspberry show a wild-berry flavorslaced with notes of orange second-passage French oak barriques for nice crisp edge for this warm vintage, those peel and peppery spice are worth the wait. about ten months, gaining rich spice notes fruit tones layered with notes of licorice, Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, VT that enliven the mixed berry fruit tones. dark chocolate and warm spice. The wine Empson USA, NY aged in barriques for 18 months, building 91 I Giovanni Rosso s20 firm,ferrous tannins that will benefitfrom a 2016 Barbera d'Alba Donna Margherita 90 I Giuseppe Cortese s25 couple of years in the cellar. Vineyard Brands, (Best Buy) This wine offers exceptional 2016 Barbera d'Alba Morassina Made from Birmingham, AL value, hitting all the notes you'd want in a the concentrated fruit of 45-year-old vines,

68 WINE & SPIRITS FEBRUARY 2021