WESTERN far better offforit. the area never developed themass tourist industryofTaormina andSyracuse,butit’sbeen macabre – itsreputation asahotspotofseismicinstabilityandMafiaactivity. Consequently, land, withlittletorecommend itsave acoupleofGreek ruinsand–for those fascinated bythe in TrapaniandMazaradelVallo. the fishermenare almostindistinguishablefromtheTunisian immigrantswhofilltheports sprinkledwithgorgeouscharming, withlabyrinthineoldquarters palazziandchurches. hold some15,000yearsofhistorybetweenthem.,MarsalaandMazaradelVallo are beaches washedbytheclearest ofwaters, whileoffshore andtheEgadi Islands Naturale delloZingaro,Sicily’sfirstnature reserve, isdistinguishedby covesRiserva androcky Sicily –thebeautifulcoastlineisabsolutely mesmerising,asare theregion’s towns. The lot oftimeinlocalwinebars. and, withendlessfieldsofMarsalagrapescovering thelandscape,oenophileswillspenda itcouldbesaidwithoutmuchexaggerationthatthisisSicily’sprimegourmetareaIn fact, experiencewithgoodhotelsan off-the-beaten-track andfantasticfood,headstraighthere. history andculture. ofthe region It’soneoftheleasttouristyparts andifyou’re wanting Western Sicilyisancientandrugged,tranquilsunny,afascinatinginsightintotheisland’s Western Sicily 102 © LonelyPlanetPublications For decades,western Sicilywaswritten offasaremote anduninteresting corneroftheis- thearea’sHistorically, Africa: rootsare thefeatures firmlyinNorth andphysiognomyof Though theyare irresistible, gastronomicpleasures are nottheonlyhighlightofwestern

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS Swim, snorkel andisland-hop throughthe Swim,snorkel Taste thefamedsweetMarsalawinein Bemesmerised bythemedievalstreets of Wanderthroughthenarrowstreets of Feast onfishcouscousortuckintosome ( p105) ( p120) Egadi Islands one ofthe sweet ricotta) fabulous in La Casbah delicious ( p110 ) whileyoufatten uponsome cannoli pasta allaTrapanese enoteche Mazara delVallo (p113) (pastryshellsstuffed with (winebars)in in (p124) Trapani

Islands Egadi Marsala Trapani Mazara delVallo Erice CASTELLAMMARE Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels €52-82, d€80-124; ( families. Twoof thebestare the with large hotels catering mainlytoItalian Castellammare delGolfoisaresort town Sleeping &Eating the lovely best of which isthewidestretch of at sand beaches,tle andsurroundedbysandy the looked bytheremains of a17th-century cas- have harbourthatisover-It does apleasant the gulf,thisplaceactsasatransporthub. it’stheleastattractiveAlthough townalong fishing village of Castellammare delGolfo. ful inallof Sicily,andatitsheartliesthe (659m) hastobeperhaps themostbeauti- Castellammare delGolfoandMonte Cofano The stunningpromontorybetween pop 14,600 CASTELLAMMARE DELGOLFO GLO DI GOLFO % WESTERN SICILY Marettimo 0924 3 35 33; www.almadarig.com; Piazza0924 33533;www.almadarig.com; Petrolo; s M EDITRAN Marettimo Pantelleria Pantelleria Pantelleria Marina Alcamo Marina S EA Grotta delGenovese Mt Grande Islands a Egadi (836m) To Pantelleria(80km;SeeInset); , ontheharbourfront, and ) Scauri ὈὈ Same Scaleas Main Map Tunisia (150km) Favignana Gadir . Riserva Naturale di Stagnone Grosso To Capo Levanzo (140km) GOLFODI CASTELLAMMARE ••Castellammare delGolfo Capo Boeo Marsala Pantaleo San T YRHENIA Stagone Islands SS187 Al Madarig Trapani Ὀ S EA Nubia Mazara delVallo SS115 SS115 Mòzia Vincenzo FlorioAirport Mt Cofano(659m)

Erice SS188 To Pantelleria(80km) San VitoloCapo of course, and, ricotta) withsweet (pastry shellsstuffed acold,creamy ‘semifrozen’; dessert), Nausicaa a regular service to Trapani (€3.10, eight daily to Trapani(€3.10,eight a regular service town. AziendaSiciliana Trasporti(AST) runs Via dellaRepubblica, intheupperpartof In Castellammare departfrom delGolfobuses Getting There& Away from €2-5) down to You canhave your in coldermonths, deliciousbeansandlentils. fresh and, the excellentfish and seafood, pasta Try great dishesinanelegantsetting. seasonal Movement recommendation, andyoucanget 153; meals€35-40; . is wellsignposted onroadsapproaching .it; LocalitàForgia;perperson€6-9,campsite€12-20) €78-112; www.puntanordest.com; ViaLeonardo daVinci67;s€50-78,d the big,modern SS113 The You’ll findgoodcampingfacilitiesat Naples (260km;ViaÙstica) Cave diCusa Lago della To Ustica(40km); Trinita Ristorante delGolfo Ristorante pa forsomecreamy SS187

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WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY Maria’s roomsare with airyandcomfortable, onthevillage right square,ful oldhouse Piazzamaria.com; Nettuno3;d€45; all have gorgeous settings. Scopello’s eatingoptionsare pretty good,and .scopellonline.com. Alwaysbookinadvance. commodation options,check outwww number of roomsinScopello;formore ac- Considering itssize,there isasurprising Sleeping &Eating diSiciliawithanATMBanco at the becomes seriously busy. stop. bus that headsthere at9amfromthevillage walk fromScopello,oryoucantake thebus NaturaledelloZingaro;it’sa2km Riserva a 20-minute (1.5km)walkfrom the village. tected byrocktowers juttingoutof It’s thesea. waters of anincredible blue. Thecove ispro- platform, filledwithsunseekers, islappedby rows of rustinganchors, stone andtheraised operation sincethe1200s)issurroundedby operationsinthe1980s,having in been ceased the bum:abandoned place isgorgeous, somewhathardon though one of themostidylliccoves ontheisland.The nothing todoexceptswimbythe like theybelongina1950s movie.Italian andsmooth-stonestreetsits white houses feel (tuna-processing plant)onthebeach below, charming ifittried.Builtarounda a-square village thatcouldn’tbeanymore The gorgeous Scopelloisatwo-streets-and- SCOPELLO minutes, five daily). 1½ hours, 13daily)andTrapani(€3.45,50 There are frequent trainsfromPalermo (€4.25, shuttle bus(€1.40)takes passengers intotown. inconvenient 3kmoutof a town,although 7.10am, 9am,1.30pm and 4.15pm. toScopello(€1.80,30minutes) at as services Monday toSaturday,three Sunday),aswell Piazza Marina inPalermo (€4.70,nine daily 3 1364;www.russoautoservizi.it) fromJunetoSeptember.service Monday toSaturday);there’s alsoaSunday 104 (manor house) thatoverlooks(manor house) the This ispure holidaymaterial, sothere’s inCastellammareThe trainstation isan Maria abank,there’sIf youneed asmallbranch of Try toavoid thevillage inAugust,whenit If youprefer aquieter beach, headtothe OF I CSELMAE • cplo GOLFO DI CASTELLAMMARE ••Scopello

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is the star attractionon is thestar the gulf. adult/child €3/2; .it) There are Getting There&Away chilled white wine. grilled with clams),andsinkyourteeth intoafreshly starter, move onto fora spicytomatosauce inaslightly mussels andfriendly.Trytheexcellent efficient service mous cove. Therestaurant iselegant,andthe soaring viewsdownthe106mridge tothefa- Polo 5;meals€25-35) indoors oronthelittleterrace. goodfishandseafood €25 to€30),serving the village’s more popularrestaurants (meals Tavernettacomfy beds.La alsohasoneof ochre-coloured roomswithbalconiesand haslovelyThis traditionalScopellohouse tavernetta.it; ViaArmandoDiaz3;rperperson€48-80; wine listwithofferings from local vineyards. viewsandanexcellentwonderful food,sea able, andarestaurant (meals€25to€35) renovated roomsthatare elegantandcomfort- s €60-110,d€70-150; 11 28;www.hoteltorrebennistra.com; ViaNatalediRoma19; there’s commonarea a pleasant with a TV. traditional décor. thekitchen, and Youcanuse excellent swimmingspots. hidden coves, such as Marinella Bay, provide yelloweuphorbia,and wild carobandbright Mediterranean floraduststhehillsideswith rieties, someunique tothisstretch of coast. with 40otherbirdspeciesand700 plantva- is ahaven fortherare Bonellieagle , along people andecologists.Nowitswild coastline Zingaro wascreated withthesupportof local Zingaro local protests, thetranquil Saved from development androadprojects by RISERVA NATURALEDELLOZINGARO at 7.40am,9.30am, 2pm and4.45pm. inScopello minutes) departfromthefountain minutes) before it reaches Scopello. NaturaledelloZingaro(€1.30,20 to Riserva 1.30pm and4.15pm;the9ambustakes you Scopello (€1.80,30minutes) at7.10am,9am, buses fromCastellammare buses delGolfoto Sicily’s, and ’s, firstSicily’s, andItaly’s, nature reserve, toCastellammareBuses delGolfo(€1.80,30 La Tavernetta Bennistra Torre Hotel-Ristorante Ristorante LaTerrazzaRistorante

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.chiedi-la-luna.it; Via Santuario 37b;s€45-70,d€60-110;.chiedi-la-luna.it; ViaSantuario rosticcerie fun, check out other prepared food). Ifyoufancysome sions) and impressive churches, and the elegant baroque palazzi (palacesorman- own pace. Trapani’sstreets are ladenwith explore itsbeautifulold quarter atyour tourist invasion, which meansyoucan of intheheights quiet even Sicily’sAugust ofThe capital theeponymousprovince is pop 68,400 TRAPANI TRAPANI &AROUND parallel to Via Savoia. Via PMatarella, justnearthe beach and arrivefour Sunday)fromTrapani.Buses at 1½ hours, dailyMondaytoSaturday, eight (€3.25, SanVitoloCapo AST serve Buses Getting There&Away kids! their summer months bring –somepeopleeven Piano diSopra5) couscous beneath tented canopies. rant dishes upitsfamousfish andchicken Wed Nov) in Italian;ViaDucadegliAbruzzi34;meals€35-40; out. splashing ness centre, soit’sa perfect locationfor hotel comescomplete withitsownwell- with anunderstated Moorish theme. The has itsownprivate beach, andclassyrooms .it; s€117-180,d€130-200; season. lower valueinthecome withaterrace. Better 11 roomsthatare two cleanandbright; perfect forthebeach, thisno-frills placehas Nov, Jan&Feb; delcorso.it; ViaSavoia25;s€55-65,d€75-160; English. speaks communalarea,a pleasant andtheowner and large in windows.Breakfast isserved furniture andsixroomswithbigcomfybeds phere, terracotta-coloured walls,darkwooden littleB&Bhasacosyatmos- Vito, thisbright h Via Savoia isfullof pizzerieandcheap Thàam SanVito Capo delCorso Albergo o closed Nov-Mar; closed Nov-Mar; ThisNorthAfrican–themedrestau-

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WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY into 1950s Italy. Breakfastinto 1950s Italy. isanextra€4 per bathrooms; it’svery centralandareal insight Trapani’s cheapest optionallshare sleeping room €35-40) Emanuele 71;swithshared bathroom€20,dwithshared bath- head pasthere for Erice. it’s pretty good.There are dailythat sixbuses the nearest campinggroundtothetownand 7km northof Trapanionashale beach, thisis per person/campsite€5/10; ViadelDentice15,LocalitàTonnaradiBonagia; valderice.com; pensioni Trapani hasagoodchoice of smallhotels and information. more Thursday andGoodFriday.See above for reaches Holy between itsclimaxonthenight It beginsontheTuesdaybefore and Easter celebration,the Easter forits Italy Trapani isfamousthroughout Festivals &Events the con Stigmata arethe town.Highlights Titian’s the topof thetowerthere are great viewsover recovered fromshipwrecks offthecoast.From of prehistoric objects artefacts andmedieval fortress Torre acollection diLigny.Ithouses at thetipof thepromontoryinSpanish 108 in thehistoric town centre. Sleeping Pensione Messina Lido Valderice a peak of delirious fervour thatismatchedonlybywhichaccompaniestheEastera peakofdeliriousfervour the followingmorning. The massive crowdsthatgathertowitnesstheslowmarchoften reach begin the1km-longprocessionuptoVia GBFardella; theprocessionthenreturns tothechurch the ChiesadelPurgatorio anddescendthesteps ofthechurch,carryingeachstatues,to to theslow,steady beatofadrum. lowing themen(whocarrystatuesontheirshoulders)andalocalband,whichplaysdirges Lucatelli, where theiconsare stored overnight. Eachprocessionisaccompaniedbywomenfol- toaspeciallyerected andport chapelinPiazza theirwaythroughtheoldquarter statues) make threecourse ofthenext days,nightly processionsoftheremaining life-sizedwith thefirstprocessionofaremarkable, woodenstatueoftheVirgin Mary.Overthe guilds –begin thecelebrationofPassion ofChristontheTuesday before Easter Sunday Since the17thcentury,citizens ofTrapani–represented by20traditional Sicily’s mostvenerated Easter processionisafour-day festival religious ofextraordinary fervour. I MISTERI on handtoexplaintheorigins ofeachone. Chiesa delPurgatorio ( p106 ), where theyare stored throughouttheyear. Aguardianisusually celebration inSeville,Spain.Ifyou’re notaroundforEaster, youcanalwaysseethefigures in Pietà RPN RUD • rpn TRAPANI &AROUND••Trapani The highpointofthecelebrationisonFridayafternoon, whenthe20guildsemerge from (guesthouses) byRoberto di Oderiso. Thebasic,grandma-style roomsat (St Francis with Stigmata) and (StFranciswithStigmata)

( %

( 0923 573086;www.campinglido % h , Procession oftheMisteri 0923 2 11 98; Corso Vittorio 0923 21198;CorsoVittorio withthebestoptions 1 Jun-30Sep) San FrancescoSan Located

. 23; ViaTintori 4;s€40-45,d€70-85; antiques inthelobbyandaclassic1950svibe, with Paul Gauguin prints. neat sunflower-coloured roomsdecorated 65; 4;s€30-35,d€55- [email protected]; ViadegliArgentieri of the smaller options. sleeping lackthecharacterbut thehotel does of some andmodern,withbigbathrooms, comfortable hotel inthehistoriccentre. Alltheroomsare oftotal 65rooms,Hotel Vittoriaisthebiggest 4;s/d€60/95; trapani.it; ViaFrancescoCrispi speaks impeccable English. Francesca pansive breakfast buffet isserved. Ai Lumi( opposite ), nextdoor,where theex- guests receive a15%discountatthe Tavernetta nished andspacious.There’s wi-fi access, and beds, andthesmallapartmentsare wellfur- stylishly decorated roomshave four-poster by swirlingbaroquearchitecture. Some of the this lovely 18th-centurypalazzoissurrounded €130-150; Emanuele71;s€50-70,d€80-100,4-personapt .it; CorsoVittorio placearetaking warmly welcomed. nificantly, andtheslowrenovations thatare dation optioninTrapani,ithasdecayedsig- charming owner. Oncethebest accommo- Nuovo Albergo hasaneccentricairanda Ai Lumi B&B. person. The Hotel Vittoria Vittoria Hotel o o Nuovo Albergo Russo Albergo Nuovo a ) TheMaccotta isexcellentvalue,with a Albergo Maccotta Maccotta Albergo Ai LumiB&B ) Situated right on the main drag, Situated onthemaindrag, right pensione ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % Misteri 0923 873044;www.hotelvittoria

(

( % % shares acourtyardwith (life-sized wooden 0923 872418;www.ailumi 0923 22166;fax66

( % a maestranze, 0923 28418;albergo ) Withgilded a Witha pasos ) or

meals €20-25; something of aspeciality,particularly when couscous (or route toTunisiahasmade position onthesea Sicily’s Arab heritage andTrapani’sunique RESTAURANTS Eating lonelyplanet.com is perfectly followed byatuna steak covered ricci tothedelicious and proceed with thefish the freshest picksof themorning catch. Start here, withanemphasis on fish andseafood Slow FoodMovement badge. It’sallabout wearer of the trattoria isanotherdeserved Tucked attheendof ViaOrlandini,thistiny Orlandini 30a;meals€30-35; runs thesuperb cat, thepassitodiPantelleria. Therestaurant mostfamousmus- orItaly’s ricotta) sweet a warm Trapanese starters, aplate of mind-blowing inbreadcrumbsjust taste thesardine for Slow FoodMovement badge of approval – whole of Sicily.It’snowonderitsportsthe covering oneof thefinestplacestoeatin butyou’llbedis- from collapsinginonitself, where preventsghetto, scaffolding thealley You’ll have itoutintheoldJewish toseek formal restaurant) isagastronomicparadise. Giudecca 52;meals€25-35) is fullof unpretentious country fare. the diningroomgreat character, andthemenu core. brickworkandhuge arches lend Exposed azzo, thistraditionaltavern isrustictothe blockoffrom thestable an18th-centurypal- Emanuele 15;meals€25-35; specialities fromMay to early July. andfreshTrythetuna steaming pasta seafood. places. most to bookinadvanceonweekend in evenings menu of restaurant every intown.You’llneed you trybothdishes–you’llfindthemonthe that ishand-twirledinTrapani.Make sure almonds), eaten with made fromfresh basil,garlicand tomatoes, irresistible is staple garlicandparsley. Another includes tomatoes, withafish sauce served nx door. next o o Tavernetta AiLumi daPeppe Ristorante (spaghetti with sea urchin meat),which withsea (spaghetti cassatella Cantina Siciliana Cantina Al SolitoPosto andthefishplatter, followedby h closed Mon) carpaccio cuscus, TRAPANI &AROUND••Trapani enoteca (cream with hornstuffed

pesto allaTrapanese ( % Thislittletrattoria(in- ( % astheyspellithere) h h Lotsof glass, stained busiate, 0923 87 24 18; Corso Vittorio 0923 872418;CorsoVittorio (cuscus conpesce) (thinlyslicedfish)

0923 28246;ViaSpalti50; (winebarorshop) closed Sun)

( closed Sun&15-31Aug) % ( % 0923 24545;Via 0923 28673;Via spaghetti coni a small pasta asmallpasta Converted pasta alla (pesto that

serves excellent serves €3.50-7; filled with sweetened ricotta, dicedchocolatefilled withsweetened ricotta, northern waterfront. Even ifyou’re not buying di Pesce; There’s agreat open-air SELF-CATERING walk downtowardsthe Erice funicular. other deliciouscakes since1939.It’sabitof a providinghas been tasty Trapani’s €2.50-3.50) ice creams &cakes snack before headingoff to the islands. drofoil dock,itisagreat placetopickupa savoury meals.Locatedlight opposite thehy- €2.50-3.50) Staiti 87;cakes only eaten fromJuly to September. delicacies, such as (lemon), butyoushould alsotrytheseasonal such as vours are available, includingoldfavourites ice) here isthebestinTrapani.Many fla- granitas €1.55) o CAFÉS is smartly. relatively oflevels Trapanisociety,soyoushould dress tilingual. Theclientele stems fromthehigher isfriendly andmul- of andtheservice salads, plentiful, thefishfresh, there’s agoodchoice atmosphere Thecouscousis bytheseafront. upgoodfoodinabuzzing Paradiso serves 24;meals€35-40; Dante Alighieri Movement loves the place. and candiedfruit).NowondertheSlowFood ish withicecream ora onto grilledfish squid,andfin- orstuffed withprawnsandpistachio sauce. Movepasta) excellent localspeciality.Another spicy anddelightful cinnamonandnutmeg),a saffron, tomatoes, with fish is agreat placetotrycouscous,prepared here Fardella 23;meals€30-40; creamy trythealmondparfaitora fit inadessert, onions.Ifyoucan caramelised with sweet Pizzeria Calvino Pizzeria Ignazio Benivegna Angelino Pasticcere Taverna Paradiso o The town’sfavourite pizzaplace takeaway h h Colicchia mandorla cannoli 7pm-midnight Wed-Mon) primo piattoprimo alla Trapanese pasticcerie La Bettolaccia morning-early afternoon Mon-Sat) afternoon morning-early The

. (cnr Via delle Belle Arti &ViaCarosio; (cnr ViadelleBelleArti

cannoli ( % granita (almond),coffee and

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gelsi ( % ( h Thisheavenly littlecafé % 0923 21464;ViaNNasi77;pizzas % (pastryshops),thisplace 0923 5554; isthe

closed Satlunch&Sun) 0923 873751;Lungomare An old-timeramong 0923 28064;ViaAmmiraglio andagoodarrayof ( cassata cassata (mulberry), which is (flavoured crushed fish market % (withgarlic,chilli, h cannoli, 0923 21695;ViaGB closed Jan) . trenette (sponge cake

(Piazza Mercato Via Manzoni 99; Via Manzoni

cassate Taverna Taverna on the (short This

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109 and SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY posite PiazzaGaribaldi.Insideyouwillfind utes bought from kiosksin bought the station. and Pantelleria; see p300 for details. Dublin,,Tunis at Birgi. serve Flights hours, daily). eight connecting Trapani withPalermo (€8, two main busstation arriveAll intercity buses anddepartfrom the BUS terminal. ferry tickets ( atSalvoViaggi p106 ) orfromthe €38/52, 11½hours, Purchase oneweekly). onSardinia(seat/bed toCagliari ferry service terminal. hydrofoil ( p106 ticketsand Fridaymornings.Get atEgatours ), oryoucanbuydirectly atthe to €144,ninehours) onMonday,Wednesday Ustica Linesalsorunsferries toTunisia(€72 and Pantelleria (€34,2½hours, onedaily). Naples(€83,fiveweekly), hours, fourweekly) toUsticaonly service (€19, 2½hours, four similar pricestoSiremar, aswellasummer- foils toFavignana, andMarettimo Levanzo for in Italian;ViaAmmiraglioStaiti23) year. the therestit runsSundaytoFridaythrough of five hours) JunetoSeptember; atmidnight also runsadailyferry toPantelleria (€30, (€5.30, 20minutes), Levanzo Ammiraglio Staiti61) in the season. high hour andahalffrom7amuntilaround8pm HydrofoilsVia AmmiraglioStaiti. runevery facilities. phone ticket offices, acafé,cleantoiletsand a moneyexchange, Tirrenia andSiremar Trapani’s BOAT from the airport. airport Trapani’s smallnationalairport, AIR Getting There&Away smells take inthesights, and sounds. it’sagreatseafood, placetostrollaroundand 110 Segesta Siremar See right forinformationongetting to/ Ustica Lines Tirrenia For hydrofoils toheaddown youwillneed ) andMarettimo (€11.80,onehour).It RPN RUD • rc TRAPANI &AROUND••Erice

( %

( ( % ( ferry terminal ferry terminal 0923 842502) % %

0923 5455;www.siremar.it inItalian;Via 0923 521896;www.tirrenia.it) 0923 21754) (

% (Piazza Montalto) runs hydrofoils toFavignana 0923 22200;www.usticalines.it AST ,

is 15kmsouthof town (

( % % runs regular hydro- runs express buses 0923 5411) 0923 23222) . Tickets can be (€ 5.30, 35min- Vincenzo Florio Florio Vincenzo serves isop- runs a station on Piazza Montalto tocoincidewith onPiazzaMontalto station Vincenzo Florioairportfromthemainbus AST (€3.50,20minutes) buses leave forthe Getting Around minutes, 20 daily). utes, 20daily) andMazara delVallo (€4,50 10 minutes, 20daily),Marsala (€3,30min- 10 to12daily),Castelvetrano (€4.50,onehour Trapani islinked toPalermo (€7,2½hours, TRAIN office. tourist oryoucangetthe busstation, copiesatthe to May). Timetables are alwaysposted at (October public holidaysandinthelowseason tickets. the outside Egatours ( p106 ), where youpurchase hours, buses twodaily).Youcanpickupthese Saturday, oneSunday)andSciacca(€7.50,two (€10, fourhours, three dailyMondayto minutes, five dailyJune to September). Tarantola (€3,25 toSegesta runsaservice (€4.40, 1½hours, three daily).Autoservizi Monday toFriday)andMazara delVallo Friday), Marsala daily (€3,30minutes, eight (€3.50, 1½hours, dailyMondayto eight to Saturday,fourSunday),SanVitoloCapo Erice (€1.80,45minutes, 10dailyMonday the legendary of mountain ,situated Erice watches over theportof Trapanifrom pop 28,900/elev751m ERICE and attheferry terminal Vincenzo Florio airport. with competitive rates. at Italsohasan office wide range of scooters andacar-rental service motorcycle €25/40,perweekFiat Punto car€330) Torre 21/23;per day50ccscooter/500cc Italian; ViaMarino leg. return onthe tion andstoppingatthetrainstation Nazionale Pepoli, leaving fromthe bussta- Trapani fromthetowncentre totheMuseo Maccotta ( p108 ) for€5 per day. Saturday). to one hourand10minutes, twodailyMonday Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino airport(€5.50, flights. There are ranksonPiazzaUmberto taxi Rent Mavi afree circulartripthrough Bus 11does You canhire bicyclesfromAlbergo decrease dramaticallyonSundays, Services Lumia

Segesta ( %

0923 21754) ( %

( 0923 28655;www.mavirent.com in % 0923 21754) has services toAgrigento has services . lonelyplanet.com has buses to hasbuses hasa lonelyplanet.com mained inviolate – no why! guesses countless invasionsthesacred site longre- accommodated Despite inthetemple itself. of sacred prostitution,withtheprostitutes the peculiarritualple acolytes practised mark inthe asaholyland- who mentionsthesanctuary from ’ famousTrojan son,, The mysterious Elymiansclaimeddescent andAphroditePhoenicians totheGreeks). centre forthecultof Venus ( tothe the surroundings, though. enormous communicationtowers spoiling a real mini-adventure. Shame aboutthe from Trapani,andavisittoEricebecomes wonderful journeyuponthefunicular andcaketaurants shops.Add tothatthe andoffersthe sea, somepretty goodres- ing viewsof thevalley beneathitand Thetownhassweep- evening. to afoggy that cantake youfroma sunnyafternoon is enhancedbytheunpredictable weather forts andchurches, charm and itsmountain townwithstern- merising medieval looking a giddy750mabove It’sames- level. sea 1 3 2 ERICE The townhasanotorioushistory asa

Via Pineta Comunale Viale dei Cappuccini dei Viale SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Chiesa Madre...... Castello diVenere...... Tourist Office...... Post Office...... Police...... ue iioAtnoCrii... B1 Museo CivicoAntonioCordici...... AC Grammatico Piazza 1 TRAPANI &AROUND••Erice To BaglioSanta 16 Croce (9km) . Insidetheholytem- 17 Tràpani Porta 5 Corso Vittorio

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12 Guarrasi the old town.

wall-hugging alleys, votivewall-hugging niches andsecret and souvenir Still, Ericeisallabout stalls. and convents have given wayto carpetshops Erice remains today–temples asanctuary altitude andspiritual pre-eminence. Notthat oncecompared EryxtoMt Athosforits Sights Grammatico; h centre of town,asis the Tommaso Guarrasi1; The friendly tually bringsyououtat the castle. Salerno.Emanuele, isViaGenerale Thiseven- other mainroad,which branches Vittorio off Piazza UmbertoI,thecentralpiazza. The the town’smainroad,which headsupto This putsyouonCorso VittorioEmanuele, Trapani. you enter thePorta thetownthrough cles arrive inPiazzaGrammatico,fromwhere The townisshapedlike atriangleandallvehi- Orientation

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Piazza San tourist office tourist TRANSPORT SHOPPING Funicular Entrance...... Amico Pietro...... Osteria diVenere...... Monte SanGiuliano...... u tp...... A2 Bus Stop...... Roma Giovanni h are atthemainentranceto 8am-2pm Mon-Sat) 0 0 Balio Villa The post office

( police % 0923 869388;Via 4 D (questura; Piazza (Via Guarnotti; (Via

17 16 15 14 13 isinthe 0.1 miles A2 C2 C2 B2 200 m 111

WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY 91 72; Piazza Umberto I;admissionfree; 91 72;Piazza Umberto h the town.Notmuch more thanaruintoday, was destroyedbyRoger Iwhenhecaptured ries over anancienttemple of Venus, which budget optionwithlarge rooms,spacious @libero.it; Cortile Vincenzo5;s/d€61/82) @libero.it; Cortile that feature rugsandmismatched bright who speaksimpeccable English and rooms This isacosysmall hotel with afriendlyowner Emanuele63;s€75-95,d€100-130; .it; CorsoVittorio great addition in summer. olive-wood antiques.Theswimming poolisa stone walls,originalterracotta-tiled floors and hotel isfullof withexposed authenticdetails, amidcitrusgrovesSet andlush gardens,the baglio d €108-130; daSantaCroce,Valderice; s€54-65, croce.it; ContradaRagosia below. plain beds andsmallwindowsthatlookontothe attraction in itself. isan stronghold inthismedieval night Erice hassomeexcellenthotels, andaquiet Sleeping elegant Venus. isan Theotherpieceworthseeing necropolis, includinga4th-centuryheadof findsfromthetown’s houses The museum Tue, 8.30am-1.30pm&2.30-5pmMonThu) Wed &Fri, find the the heartof thecity,andplace where you’ll century sidechapels were conserved. in theneo-Gothicstyle1865,but15th- which hasalovely vaulted ceiling,remodelled Built in1314,thechurch haditsinterior, (bell tower;admission€1) the mostinteresting byvirtueof its 3-5.15pm) Madre ments inthissmall,quiettown,the Cofano (659m),andsouthwest to Trapani. andMontenortheast toSanVitoloCapo the castleisupstaged bythepanoramicvistas diVenere Castello trippers are not around. andearlymornings,whentheday- evenings courtyards, which are bestappreciated inthe 112 Hotel Moderno Hotel Baglio SantaCroce Edelweiss Albergo At thetopof Corso VittorioEmanueleis churchesOf theseveral andothermonu- At thetopof theNorman thehillstands 8am-7pm) RPN RUD • rc TRAPANI &AROUND••Erice

islocated 9kmeastof EriceinValderice. (Via Vito Carvini; admissionfree; VitoCarvini; (Via , just inside Porta Trapani,isprobably , justinsidePorta Annunciation Museo CivicoAntonioCordici Museo ps , builtinthe12thand13thcentu- )

( Thisconverted 17th-century %

(Castle ofVenus; donationsexpected; (

withmullionedwindows. %

0923 869300;www.pippocatalano ( % by Antonello Gagini. 0923 891111;www.bagliosanta 0923 869420;a.edelweiss h h 8.30am-1.30pm 9.30am-1pm & Agood

( % campanile 0923 86 Chiesa a .

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way toErice’sbest-positionedhotel –allof inside aformer16th-centurymonastery. It Tue) lapentolaccia.it; ViaGuarnotti17;meals€30-35; surroundings. the are asdelicious fishandseafood the pasta, The terrace has acanopyof green vines,and cool patiogracedwithdroopinghydrangeas. acrumblingarchthrough thatleadsontoa Vittorio Emanuele,thiseatery isentered meals €25-35; SanGiuliano Monte RESTAURANTS Eating pansive, beds. comfortable with smooth,cream-coloured wallsandex- Theroomsareonto thesea. neatandlight, and terracotta-tiled terrace issunnyandlooks and marblefireplaces, whiletheplant-filled and fullof shady alcoves, beamedceilings below. Thecommunalroomsare intimate plainandshimmering sea windswept coastal the roomsenjoyenchanting viewsof the pi Emanuele75;s€80-110,d€130-150; .com; CorsoVittorio prepares someof thebestfood in town. hotel hasagood siderable skillsfromthenuns of Erice. Try hood, which waswhenshelearnt hercon- of recipes andrecollections fromher child- Taylor Simeti’sbook pastry chef. She thesubject of waseven Mary by Maria Grammatico, Sicily’smostfamous Emanuele14;cannoli€2.50) Vittorio count as a sin. really this isonetimewhengluttonydoesn’t pasticceria meanit’shardto gopastthislittlesweets Guarnotti 1;sweets€1.50-3) delConvento Antica Pasticceria CAFÉS the checked-tablecloth variety. Via Roma6;meals€20-25) main street, is on the menu. andotherfavouriteswith sardines) featuring food isgood,with can get swampedbytourgroupsbutthe pieces thatsomehowworktogether. The o Also recommended, awayfromthebusy La Pentolaccia Elimo Hotel Thisisasmart,atmosphericrestaurant ) Astylishlycluttered reception gives Grammatico Maria Grammatico Maria . Andsinceit’sinanoldconvent, h

closed Mon) ( % Osteria diVenere Osteria

Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( (

% % enoteca, 0923 869377;www.charmerelax pasta conlesarde , atraditionaltavern of 0923 869099;www.ristorante 0923 869595;ViccoloSanRocco7; Heavenly pastriesand Bitter Almonds, Tucked behindCorso and therestaurant

( Thiscaféisrun ( %

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0923 869390;Via 0923 869005;Via 0923 869362; h a series aseries (pasta (pasta closed to thecentre of Trapani. butittakesstation, around30minutes from/ Erice begins.Youcanwalktothefunicular which isthepointwhere Trapaniendsand down totheendof Manzoni, ViaAlessandro Trapani, catch bus23fromViaGBFardella (bright rugsmadefromcolourfulcotton(bright Erice isjustifiably famousforits Shopping den –theyare someof thebestyou’lltaste. the exquisite lonelyplanet.com commanding viewsoutto Castellammare the theatre with up onthemountain, high Greeks. with over 10,000Elymiansandrepopulated thecity later theGreek tyrantAgathocles slaughtered and more consequences, fatal than 100years Trojans. Such mutualantipathywastohave were descendedfrom the indeed mination –perhaps understandably, ifthe Elymians pursued withbloodthirsty deter- the destruction(in409BC) whose Selinunte, producing mysterious notes. 36 giantcolumnsare toactlike said anorgan, most magicalancientsites. Onwindydaysits temple isoneof5th-century-BC theworld’s midst of thishuge wild,desolate mountains, on theedge of canyoninthe tion. Set adeep aesthetes if theirchoice of sites isanyindica- The ancientElymiansmusthave great been elev 304m SEGESTA Conte Pepoli (€1 per hour). and departfrom Trapani. Porta arriveto Saturday,fourSunday).Allbuses Trapani (€1.80,45minutes, 10dailyMonday halfJul) Sun Sep-1st 9.45am-midnightSat& Jul &Aug,7.30am-8.30pmMon-Fri, I;oneway/return €2/3.75; Umberto ( The bestwaytoget toEriceisonthe Getting There&Away presepi quality ceramics,somelovely laceworkand ( tique shops, oneof thebestbeing Erice alsohasanumberof fairlygoodan- rags), which are soldallalongthemainstreet. % % There is a regular AST bus service to/from There isaregular AST busservice The city was in constant conflictwithGreekThe citywasinconstant Metered parkingisavailable alongViale There are two outstanding surviving sites: There are surviving twooutstanding 0923 56 93 06, 0923 86 97 20; www.funiviaerice.it; Piazza0923 569306,869720;www.funiviaerice.it; 0923 869244;ViaGuarnotti54/58) (Nativity figurines). cannoli . Toget tothefunicularfrom OFFSHOREISLANDS••TheEgadiIslands intheleafybackgar- h 8am-1am 2ndhalf , which sells Amico Pietro frazzate funicular

Piazza Saturno; nificent forswimming, diving,eatingand fished, and thetunafishery (once theonly around theislands have terribly over- been general relaxing. Unfortunately, the waters 1937. in Islands onlybecamepartof state theItalian tycoon IgnazioFlorioin1874.The Egadi who theninturnsoldthemtothe business the islandswere soldtoGenovese bankers, the islandsheavily. Inthe17th century conquerors subsequent tofortifycaused invasions, andthelucrative tunaindustry Egadi) asastepping stoneenroute totheir amount of Carthaginian blood spilt. (Red Cove), which earneditsnamefromthe Rossa atCala Wars in241BC wasfought one of themostcriticalbattles of thePunic islands were akey stronghold, Carthaginian illustrate. whenthe Later, ings onLevanzo astheprehistoricfrom thesea, cave paint- For centuriesthe Egadi Islanders have lived pop 4280 THE EGADIISLANDS OFFSHORE ISLANDS spectacular. are got theenergy, walkupinstead –theviews tre andcosts anadditional€1.20.Ifyou’ve from theentrance1.5kmuphilltothea- you. direct a 20-minute walkaway.There are signsto Tempio;three daily)toSegesta thesite is Palermo (€5.50,onehour40minutes, Trapani (€3,25minutes, 10daily)or you cancatch aninfrequent trainfrom OctobertoMay). Otherwise, duced service (€3, 25minutes, five dailyinsummer,re- inTrapanibus fromthemainstation Trapani. in office theatre. the Forinformation,contact formances of Greek playsare staged inthe preserved. well andisremarkablydates from around430BC h temple del Golfo,andthenever-completed Nowadays, theEgadi Islandsare mag- theEgadiThe Arabsused Islands(Isole A shuttle 30minutes busrunsevery isaccessibleby Segesta per-From mid-Junetomid-September, 9am-4pm Nov-Mar, 9am-7pmApr-Aug) 9am-4pm Nov-Mar,

(

% ( % 0923 29000;www.apt.trapani.itinItalian; 0924 952356;adult/concession€6/3; h 8am-8pm Mon-Sat,9am-noonSun) AST

( % . Thelatter 0924 31020) tourist tourist Doric 113

WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY Internet Elyos Internet Banco delPopolo INFORMATION around out of waters, thecrystal-clear mostnotably flat. Aroundthecoasttufaquarriesare carved eastern halfof theislandisalmostcompletely You caneasilyexplore itonabicycle,asthe (287m)tothewest.Monte Caterina Santa shaped Favignana, which isdominated by The largest of theislandsisbutterfly- (€6.90, 30 minutes). (€2.50,10minutes) andMarettimoto Levanzo quick. FromFavignana youcanconnecteasily fromMarsala; Levanzo see p124 for details. toFavignanathere and isalsoadailyservice islands fromTrapani;see p110 . Insummer, Siremar and Ustica Linesrunhydrofoils tothe THERE&AWAYGETTING ory, causingadentinthe local economy. mem- cannery inEurope)isnowadistant 114 several several computers. and per hr€6)Agoodplace withanADSLconnection Favignana Services between theislandsare between cheap and Services most famousaccountsofthisancienttradition. are imprisoned,thefishermencloseinand has seenRossellini’sclassicfilm or more fishermenatatimewillsinkhugehooksintotunaanddragitaboard.Anyonewho of enclosures, whichculminate inthe organise theirboatsandnetsinacomplexformationdesignedtochannelthetunaintoseries inmindthatnetshavebut keep beenknowntocomeupemptyinthelastfew years. a fee youcanjointhefishermenintheirboatsandwatchthemcatchingtuna atclosehand, livelihoods, sosomehave reinvented LaMattanzaasatouristattraction. fishing are causing‘irreversible’ Fishermen damagetobluefintunastock. have largely losttheir that passedbywascaught,andthustheoceans’fishresources were depleted. exploited usinglong-linefishingandindiscriminate meanssuchasdriftandgill nets. Anything increase incommercialfishingthe1960s:tunawascaughtyear-round, anddeepwaters were istestamentplace foraround900yearswithoutoverfishing tothis. Problemsarosewiththe caught bythismethodwasrelatively thatthe smallandsustainable–thefact the annualcatchisincreasingly oftuna. smallerduetotheworldwidecommercialoverfishing catch giant breeding and300kg. tunaofbetween200kg Fish thatsize are rare thesedaysand Locals canrecall thegoldendaysofisland’sfishingindustry,whenitwasnotuncommonto decreasing numberoftunaswimmingintothelocalwaters eachyear. An ancienttradition,theEgadi Islands’ LA MATTANZA FSOEILNS • h gd sad OFFSHORE ISLANDS••TheEgadiIslands According tosomescientists,additionalproblemssuchashighlegalfishingquotasandillegal Traditionally, tunatrapswere setaroundthecoastofSicilyonceayear. The numberoftuna For centuriesschoolsoftunahave usedthewaters aroundwestern Sicilyasamatingground. If youdodecidetogo,remember thatthisisnoordinaryfishingexpedition.The fishermen From around20Mayto10June,touristsflocktheEgadi Islandstowitnesstheevent. For Cala Rossa Cala ( % (Piazza Europa)Hasan ATM. 0923 92 25 87; Piazza Madrice 37; 0923 922587;Piazza Madrice and Cavallo . Stromboli camera dellamorte mattanza willnodoubtrecall the mattanza (ritual tuna slaughter) survives despite (ritualtunaslaughter) theever- survives ful officein Favignana town. Help- & 4.30-7pmMon-Sat,9.30am-12.30pmSunJun-Sep) 8; .it/proloco inItalian;Piazza Madrice Post office Police pr day. per Marina) try nextdoorat chaeological and dives.night-time Forboats international divingcourses, aswellar- 44 92;www.progettoatlantide.com;Piazza Marina) divers, and watersthe crystal-clear are afavourite with some divingandboating.Unsurprisingly, forlack nently stalled of funding. cultural centre, to be perma- theplansseem thereand, although are planstorestore itasa general crisisinthelocaltuna-fishing industry tonnara boat istheabandoned asyoustep the off The first thingyou’llsee SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES office Tourist 8am-noon Sat) Florios, justupfrom Florios, the dock. Around theharbouryoucansign upfor begins. Itisabloodyaffair–uptoeight (questura;Palazzo Intheoldhomeof Florio) (chamberofdeath).Onceenoughtuna ,

. Itwasshutdownin1977duetothe where costs €80/110 adinghy/boat (Via Marconi; Marconi; (Via ( Atlantide % 0923 921647;www.egadiweb mattanza Catalano h

( % 8am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, scene,oneofthe

( % 0923 922181,347050 Stabilimento Florio mattanza 339 6916618;Piazza lonelyplanet.com h 9am-12.30pm took runs

€30) low €37-62) .it; LocalitàCosticella; for athree- day jollyaround the islands. office about office the islandat Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels courts and professional divingcourses. The excellent, andinclude ahuge pool, tennis own private beach. Thefacilitieshere are aroundthehotel’swashed bungalows set island, thisplace offers of aseries white- full board; .aurumhotels.it; CalaGrande;s€85-210,d€170-348, allincl summer. in bookings fortherestaurant are essential different specialityeach Advance night. a menu(€50perhead)thatserves tasting February), inafive-course which specialises land’s bestrestaurant Wednesdayand (closed and welcoming.Thehotel alsohastheis- sisters whorunthissmallhotel are friendly pinks.Inaddition,thetric bluesandsalmon have massive terraces andare painted inelec- French countrysidestyle,theupstairs rooms furniture andgushing showers. Decorated in Albergo Egadi, withitslush beds,antique s €50-100,d€100-200) .albergoegadi.it inItalian;ViaColombo17,Favignana town; in an outdoor courtyard. of Favignana. There isalsoagoodrestaurant able, well-furnished inthecentre roomsright An attractive converted palazzowithcomfort- 11,Favignana.it; ViaGaribaldi town;s€45-90,d€70-150; makes itexcellent for families. large playgroundandproximity tothebeach well-equipped bungalowsandtent area. Its low isnotavailable in August. the centre of theisland.Thetwo-bed bunga- well-equipped campinggroundissituated in 2-bed bungalow€34-80,4-bed€64-130) /egad inItalian;LocalitàArena; campsiteperperson€5-7, rent out rooms. if youdon’tbookinadvance. Many locals in Augustyou’llhave troublefindingabed on Favignana, Mattanza and butduringLa There are plentyof accommodationoptions SLEEPING The bestbeaches are onthe southernsideof If fishing isyourthing, askatthetourist L’Approdo diUlisseClub o Egad Camping Albergo Aegusa Aegusa Albergo Miramare , where localfishermencantake agroup as Thisfour-star campinggroundhas Albergo Egadi Egadi Albergo

( % pescaturismo Miramare ) Onthewestern sideof the

0923 921310;www.villaggiomiramare

per personcampsite€9-16.50,bunga- ( ( % % It’sareal treat at staying 0923 921555;www.egadi.com 0923 922430;www.aegusahotel and

( % (

(per personperdayaround % /fax 0923921232;www Lido Burrone 0923 925000;www OFFSHOREISLANDS••TheEgadiIslands . This a

) meals €20-25) (€1, eight daily)from PiazzaMarina(€1, eight in cytlcer waters. crystal-clear its pebblybeachestime swimmingoff inthe delGenovese,the Grotta andtospend some to examinetheprehistoric cave paintingsat There are twomainreasons tovisitLevanzo: Levanzo near the main port. an inlandroute, bothof which leave from Favignana town.There route isacoastal and cycles/scooters is€5/25 per day. Piazza Europa). ( fering bikes forhire, including the island.There are plentyof placesof- to allthelittlecoves and beaches dotting to get aroundFavignana, givingyouaccess A bicycleorascooter isavery goodway AROUND GETTING (roe) and sardines. of otherfishy delicaciessuch as ahost and cannedbluefintuna,italsosells not onlyfilledtotherafters withsmoked delTonno Casa great littledeliyoushould make astopatis up onyourwayhomefromFavignana. One tuna-related productsifyouwanttostock There are plentyof in shopsthatspecialise SHOPPING garden andenjoythe live music. grabback evening, achair inthecandlelit ricci all withafish theme. Trythe ite thatrustles upgreat dishes,nearly pasta meals €25-30; pasta. fresh are thespecialitieshere,seafood aswell race onthebuzzingmainsquare. Fishand good. also Egadi ( left ), butthefollowingplacesare ways. Thebestrestaurant isatAlbergo inamultitudeofon theislands,served Not surprisingly,tunaisthethingtoeat EATING &DRINKING activities. sporting price includesroom,meals,drinksand % Tarantola aroundtheisland runbuses Zazzamita El Pescador La Tavernetta 0923 92 54 09; Piazza Matrice 29) 0923 925409;Piazza Matrice . Apopularrestaurant withater- The standard hire Thestandard charge forbi- h

(Zona Cavallo;

( ( closed Wed&Feb) % %

( % 0923 921035;Piazza Europa38; 0923 922227;12ViaRoma) 0923 92 16 39; Piazza Madrice 54; 0923 921639;Piazza Madrice h 7pm-late) Alocalfavour- and spaghetti con Foralaid- Il Noleggione Da bottarga

Rita ; it’s 115

(11

WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY to stay, withaprettyto stay, geranium-clad terrace s €35-50,d€70-90; pa 11;s€60-70, d€120-140,allinclhalfboard;Calvario Va Lungomare. Via also asmall you canget coffee, snacksand gelato. There’s terrace. the feel, butthereSpartan are great viewsfrom with acavernous dininghall. Roomshave a Fenici, amassive concrete blockof ahotel Rooms are simply furnished. where youcaneatwell(meals€30to€35). There are twohotels inLevanzo. SLEEPING &EATING you canswiminpeace and tranquillity. water where, outside themonthof August, Minnola andkeep goinguntilyouget to the sea bend; take therockypathdowntowards dirt road.Theroadforks300mpastthefirst outoftake aright townandwalkalongthe where there Alternatively, isalsoalighthouse. Grosso Capo a littlequieter, keep goinguntilyouget to a few metres offshore. Ifyoufancy something acoupleof rocksstickingoutofsee thewater walk about 1kmwest alongtheroaduntilyou Faraglione all ahealthywalkfromthetown.Toget to around the island. canalsobehired taxis fortrips most. Thesea two bars: itshouldcostyou€15perperson at thatadvertise inthetown’s taxis sea several route byhiringoneofyou cantake thesea the street directly behind theport.Alternatively, find himinhissouvenir shopontheelevated who isavailable forguidedtours. Youwill 741 8800;[email protected];tour€6-15; dian, on yourown.Youcancheck withthe custo- going the island,butbewarnedthatitisrough get there, youcantrytofollowthepathacross the later onesalsoincludemenandtuna. To years old,theimages mostlyfeature animals; 6000and10,000 by accidentin1949.Between Genovese drawingsatthe Neolithic incised The UpperPalaeolithic wallpaintingsand SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES 116 There are three great spotstogoswimming, There are acoupleof smallcaféswhere Pensione deiFenici Albergo Paradiso Albergo FSOEILNS • h gd sad OFFSHORE ISLANDS••TheEgadiIslands Signor NataleCastiglione ) Right behindtheParadiso Right isthe , a small landing bay with crystal-clear , asmalllandingbaywithcrystal-clear (Genovese Cave) were discovered , take a left through thetownand , take aleftthrough , onthenorthernsideof theisland, alimentari a

) ( Themostattractive place %

( 0923 924080;ViaLungomare; % (grocerystore) on /fax 0923924083;Via h ( %

10am-1pm &3-6pm) 0923 924032,0339 Grotta del Cala , 32 90;www.isoleegadi.it/S.Giuseppe) the mainmodeof transportis electric carts. road ontheislandandnotthatmanycars – walking inunspoiltnature; there’s onlyone posed of privateposed apartments,though rooms Marettimo’s accommodationismainlycom- SLEEPING association, thelocalfishermen’s For fishingtrips,contact Sarda Cala and swimming–there are goodbeaches at Marettimo isaperfect placeforrelaxation ACTIVITIES in thewinter months. up inthelast few years. more accommodation optionshave cropped is pretty much wildernesspersonified –but of theyear–oncontrary,thistinyisland mean thatyou’llfinditpacked atanytime economic potential intourism.Thisdoesn’t incomes, thevillagers the are tosee starting the overfishing of fishermen’s tunaaffecting ofleast developed with theislands.However, men’s boats.Marettimo isalsothewildestand a littleharbourpacked withbobbingfisher- peaks andwhite-washed dippinginto houses Marettimo isacollectionof green mountain The mostwestwardof theEgadi Islands, Marettimo and six people. four between to familyapartments thatsleep terraces. Optionsrange from small studios with well-equipped kitchens; some have small block overlooking theporthasapartments h .org inItalian;2-personapt€80-100,4-person €100-120; year-round. open willdoyourlaundrytoo. thestaff a week, It’s cue area, and,ifyou’re forlonger staying than There’s asmallswimmingpoolandbarbe- coffee, water andjuiceallday. also serves there’s abreakfast bar(€6perperson) that with afullkitchen andasmallporch, and apartmentcomesmostly tofamilies.Each shaded bybougainvilleaandpalmtrees caters 150; .marettimoresidence.it; ViaTelegrafo 3;s€52-124,d€64- summer months, especially August. are inMarettimo town.Bookinadvancethe are anoption.Alltheoptionslisted following Le Conchiglie Residence Marettimo Do note thattheislandvirtuallyshutsdown closed Nov-Apr; as , ) Cala Nera Cala Thissmallapartmentcomplex San GiuseppeAssociation

( % a Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 333 3213663;www.leconchiglie ) andstunning Thisnewlybuiltsmall

( % . Youcanalsogo 0923 923202;www Cala Bianco Cala (

% 0923 92

. te season. the ble inprivate accommodation,dependingon €55and€65foradou- topaybetween Expect arrange private roomsortours of theisland. 49; www.isoladimarettimo.it inItalian) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels bougainvillea, all framed by the deepest blue bougainvillea, allframedby thedeepest green vineyardsandpsychedelic splashes of oftaposition blacklava stoneagainstvelvet on asunnydayand thestunningvisualjux- land isbreathtakingly beautiful?Drive around Mediterranean’? Orthesimplefactthatis- an islandknownasthe‘BlackPearl of the Is ittheremote location?Theexoticismof What, youmaywonder,istheattraction? as A-list fashionistas. celebritiesand Italian dwarf vinesandsteaming fumaroles–aswell jagged lava stone,low-slungcaper bushes, by theArabs,Pantelleria ischaracterised by (Daughter of theWinds) Bintel-Rhir Called pop 7300 PANTELLERIA onfreshalso focuses fishand dishes. seafood ( fish and seafood. and almonds.Themainsare allaboutfresh urchin of meat),orwithasauce sea swordfish Try itin the fresh isIlTimone’s pasta prideandjoy. soup–and –trytheclam-and-mussel seafood The antipastiare delicious,mostlyfocusingon working hardtoprepare food. fabulouslytasty trattoria hastheparents, all sonanddaughter Food Movement champion, thisfamily-run 18; meals€35-40; bit every deserves of it. Slow FoodMovement badge withprideand ice cream asyourfinale. IlVeliero sportsits grilled squidforamain,andhave fruitor with onto fishcouscousoraniceplate of spaghetti ormarinatedmoveoctopus salad sardines, Thanks tohislabours, youget withan tostart market daily,pickingoutthefreshest catches. thechef tothe it, onlybetter, because goes makes foodlike (youwish) yourmothermade meals €30-35) quality. Marettimo’s restaurants are few butof ahigh EATING % You can contact You cancontact Another recommended restaurant is o o 0923 923027;ViaScaloVecchio; meals€25-30) frutti dimare busiate coniricci Il Veliero Il Timone A cosy,intimate restaurant that h closed Nov-Apr)

( ( (seafood), tuckintosome (seafood), % % Rosa deiVenti 0923 92 32 74; Via Umberto 22; 0923 923274;ViaUmberto 0923 92 31 42; Via Garibaldi 0923 923142;ViaGaribaldi (short pasta with (shortpasta OFFSHOREISLANDS••Pantelleria AnotherSlow if youwish to

( % 0923 9232 , which Il Pirata

in Pantelleria town–itwas flattened during end of theharbour, there islittleof interest and internet access. 1.30pm &5-8.45pm)Youthcentre withgamingmachines Tirrenia orforaccommodation tickets, in .com; ViaBorgoItalia12)Comehere forSiremar and flights offtheislandand Italian; ViaBorgoItalia19)Travelagencydealingwithall airport. hensive mapofthe island (€7). Alsosellsthemostcompre- intheback. town plantucked L’ABC Barabacane rience. Aside fromthe16th-century Pantelleria thantoexpe- islessa placetosee Sights &Activities Valenza Libreria office Tourist Police La Cossira Point Internet First Aid Ambulance Rizzo Agenzia Pantelleria town. canbefoundalongViaBorgo in Banks Italia Information coasts. northeastern of interest are alongthesouthwestern and southeast of town.Mostof theisland’splaces pies thenorthwestern tip;theairportis6km get around.Thetownof Pantelleria occu- somekindof transportto to use motorised islands surroundingSicily,soyou’llneed Apart fromMalta, thisisthelargest of the Orientation remaining in the Med. is theonlytrulyagriculturalcommunity habits remain, withtheresult thatPantelleria scato dipassitoPantelleria. Many of their intheproductionofused thelocalwinemo- un-Islamic cultivationof thezibibbogrape, ings madeof thickvolcanicrock)totherather their odd,domed leaving anindeliblemarkontheislandwith to leave, either. willprobably explainit–youwon’twant sea, good rangeof hall. Goodinformationontheisland,andwebsitehasa 6.30pm Mon-Sat,9-11amSun)Inacornerofthemunicipal in Italian;Piazza Cavour; The Arabs settled hereThe Arabssettled inthe8thcentury, (€7.80), which outlines walking itineraries andhasa itineraries (€7.80), whichoutlineswalking (questura; ( % ( % (

(admission free; dammusi % 0923 699284; ( ( (Via Dante7;per30min€6; (Via % 0923 911078;www.lacossira.it in % % 0923 911110) (Via Borgo Italia 69) Sells thebook BorgoItalia69)Sells (Via 0923 91 18 38; www.pantelleria.it 0923 911838;www.pantelleria.it 0923 911104;www.agenziarizzo 0923 911109) to rent. dammusi h dammuso 9.30am-12.30pm &5.30- h h lettings. 6-8pm Jun-Sep) flight times)Atthe (low-level dwell- (low-level dammusi h . , atthe 9.30am- Castello Castello

117 WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY 91 8209;www.greendivers.it inItalian; Mursia) should get intouch with aroundtheisland.Diverscessible grottoes perfect waytovisitsomeof the more inac- person €20) Adriano excursions, offered such asthose by popular of theislandprovides thebestspots,witha snorkelling anddiving.Thenortheastern end coves which are grottoes, perfect andsea for ing theinsidenice and cool. volcanic-rock wallsandshallow cupolaskeep- modelled onthe modern intheconstructionoftled andthestonesused mounds butover theyears mostwere disman- coast. Theislandwasoncedotted withthese south of onthenorthwestern theCuddieRosse them isthe leading tothecentre. Themostimpressive of sive Neolithicfuneralcairnswithlowpassages hiking or riding. in September. Thisistheperfect placefor Both are carpeted byvinesthatare harvested Valle diGhirlanda Monastero plunge intothecoolgreen of the mud baths andbakingvolcanicmountains, races are held around the lake. ancient village of Bugeber. InAugusthorse di Venere), which canbeviewedfromthe more accessible,isthe lakes,milky turquoise much bigger insizeand extremely hot,sobeware. Anotherof these diArturocangetmud; theStufadelBagno Madonna) cometowallowinthevolcanic bodies beautiful(mostfamouslyapregnant Specchio diVenere steaming andthemilkywhite naturalsauna, the summitis which dominates thecentre of theisland.At the mainvolcano,Monte Grande(836m), craters of red volcanicrock)surrounding nomena, includingthe24 during a day’s drive. port).Youcantake inallthevillagessecond south of theisland)andScauri (theisland’s prettiest of thetowns),Rekale(inremote Theothermaintownsarehouses. Gadir(the WWII andrebuilt withmodern,cube-shaped 118 If youcan’tfacesteaming caves, boiling The island is equally famous for its secluded The islandisequallyfamousforitssecluded Also worthchecking outare the More curiousare theisland’snaturalphe- FSOEILNS • atlei OFFSHORE ISLANDS••Pantelleria

( % , are available atthedock andare the acquacalda dammusi , southof Monte Grande,orthe 0923 91 15 02; Via Borgo Italia 5; day trips per 0923 911502;ViaBorgoItalia5;daytrips Sese delRe Sese , southeastof Monte Gibele. (Mirrorof Venus), where the sesi, . These dwellings have . These been (hotspring)atGadir. Boat Stufa del Bagno di Arturo Stufa delBagnodiArturo withthick,whitewashed , about 15minutes’ walk Bagno dell’Aqua Green Divers Green cuddie (ancient sesi, , which (

Valle di % Minardi Minardi (Lago (Lago mas- 0923 , a the island,thislovely little s €36-50,d€72-100) a waterfront locationandalltheexpected Pantelleria’s onlylarge modernhotel has pais ContradaZubebi;2–4-personapt€800-1600; .zubebi.it; complex madeupof traditional fers cheaper rooms;italsohasapool,park- andof- backfromtheseafront which isset (singles €35to€80,doubles€70€160), vate beach. ItalsorunstheHotel Cossyra nis court,adivingcentre anditsownpri- facilities includingtwomassive pools,ten- s€50-105,d€100-210; .it; LocalitàMursia; upMamma’s €30) serves own cooking. ter, andthehotel’s restaurant (meals€25to filled garden.It’srunbyamotheranddaugh- a typical 70, d€84/140; 48,LocalitáTracino;s€42- .it inItalian;CorsodaSopraPortella including capers, oil and wine. alotofgood, anditsells the island’sproduce, location.Therestaurantsive clifftop town, thissmall,intimate hotel hasanimpres- month in advance. Summer bookingsshouldbemadeatleasta HOTELS Sleeping dips. night-time can arrange excitingarchaeological dives and four-bedroom apartment costs €800/1600. vated Via BorgoItalia12,Pantelleria town) Rizzo Agenzia forfourpeopleinAugust. to €1500perweek advertising rentals. topayabout €800 Expect kitchenette on its terrace. ers. Each inside anoldArab gardenandon-site scoot- cal) crescent-shaped pool,amassage parlour impracti- also anuberstylish slightly (though Indianfurnishings. Therewalls andtactile is austerely minimalist,withsmoothconcrete overlooking theharbour. Inside,thedécoris ing a If you’re inagroupyoushould considerrent- RENTAL ACCOMMODATION ing and air-con. Most bars andrestaurants have notices o Mursia Hotel Albergo Papuscia Albergo Bue Marino dammuso. dammusi dammuso Zubeb Resort Zubeb dammuso a (

% ) ( Thisisabeautifullystyled %

) Situated ontheeastern sideof ( Roughly a1kmwalkoutof Roughly % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels allover theisland;atwo-/ 0923 911104;www.agenziarizzo.com; 0923 91 10 54; Contrada Bue Marino; 0923 911054;ContradaBueMarino; ( % issurroundedbyaflower- 0923 911217;www.mursiahotel hasitsowncubbyhole 0923 915463;www.papuscia

( % albergo 0923 913653;www organises reno- pas (hotel) in dammusi

is also )

Pantelleria town;meals€25-30; this converted €14; Habibi Club Eating lonelyplanet.com airport local busconnects Pantelleria townwiththe flyfromRome(from€172).The and Alitalia minutes, onedaily); fromPalermo (€28.50,onehour 20 Pantelleria is30minutes byplanewith Air Getting There&Away craving. every ( excellent of picklesandpreserves, 91 1921;ViaCatania3) They are available from mineral-rich mudof dell’Aqua. theBagno diVenere,Cosmetica Lago madefromthe land’s ownrange of cosmetic products,Linea victims. Whatyou shops fashion tocatersandals forallthose Pantelleria hasahealthysupplyof slipsand Shopping pizzeria. popular atmospherean eerie Italsorunsa atnight. ing isbuiltfromblacklava, which gives it full tothegunwalesinsummer. Thebuild- h Oxidiana Entertainment stuffed with ricotta. of composed crispylayersa dessert of pastry The mostfamousdish onthemenuis this isoneof Pantelleria’s best restaurants. 35; and and basilsauce), roast hare. tesco local fare including Favarotta hasanexcellentreputation fortasty, Favarotta; meals€25-30; Saturday. for Bookingsrecommended cheese). and ricotta ravioli conmenta ericotta andfishdishes. Trythelocalspeciality, pasta Wonderfully unpretentious, withexcellent and it’sallfreshly prepared for you. thefamedfish couscous Hotel. Itonly serves % For all that sweet, sweet wineandjars sweet full For allthatsweet, I Mulini FavarottaTrattoria Il Cappero h 4pm-4am Jun-Sep) h 0923 91 29 68; Via Messina 22) 0923 912968;ViaMessina (spaghetti withatomato,garlic,pepper (spaghetti closed Jan&Feb)

evening Jul&Aug) evening ( %

(

( % %

0923 84 12 22) ( %

0923 912319;ContradaKuddieRosse; 0923 915398;ContradaTracino;meals€30- ( 333 739 90 63; Località Mursia; couscous 333 7399063;LocalitàMursia; % dammuso SALINEDITRAPANI ••Sights&Activities , justoff Via Borgo Italia. Located inaconverted mill, Pantelleria’s onlydiscois 0923 912601;ViaRoma31, h should Bookingsare at essential

spaghetti conpesto pan- ( closed Wed&winter) % . Air One Il Mirto elaRosa Il Mirto 0923 914347;Contrada nexttotheMursia h stockuponistheis- (ravioli withmint can cater toyour closed MonOct-Apr)

( % 848 848880) Trattoria La Nicchia ( %

0923 baci,

town. Ustica Lines hashydrofoils departing Messina 35;perdayscooters€10-25,FiatMessina Panda cars€15- Autonoleggio Policardo Autonoleggio below the water. San Pantaleo by wasbought atadepthofroad, which 1m canbeseen connected tothemainland by aPhoenician the tinyislandof SanPantaleo. Theisland is Mozia the shallowwaters of the lagoon. the longarmof IsolaLunga,which protects and Islands(Isoledelle Stagnone) Stagnone Stagnone modern construction,isthe where glitter undisturbedby thesaltpans The mostattractive spotalongthecoast, SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES moreItaly’s discerning dinner tables. a cottage industryremains, providing for massivelyproduction hasfallenoff andonly salt since the12thcentury;now,however, bigbusiness andhasbeen the bestinItaly marshes isconsidered fromthese The salt mills), which were togrindthesalt. used are saltpans the coastal small Flat andfeatureless, theonlyinterruption on pools) andsoftly shimmering heapsof salt. in ableached landscapeof Trapani andMarsala youwillfindyourself Driving alongtheSS115coastroadbetween SALINE DITRAPANI Hotel asyouapproach from the harbour. 40) on the island. allthetowns andservice at regular intervals inPantelleriapart fromPiazzaCavour town (€0.85,MondaytoSaturday)de- Local buses Getting Around p117. see the weather conditions. October toMay, buttheyare dependenton September. There from are reduced services (€34, 2½hours, Juneand onedaily)between daily) andafastboatfromMazara delVallo a ferry fromTrapani(€30,five hours, one from JunetoSeptember. Siremar alsoruns from Trapani(€34,2½hours, onedaily) , justdownthealleytoleftof thePort You canrent scooters andcars from All boatsarrive attheportinPantelleria In theforeground floatsthesite of ancient planeandferryFor agents selling tickets, ( also knownasMotyaorMothia),on , a noted wetlandsarea inthe taking ( % 0923 912844;Vicolo saline Riserva Naturale di Riserva mulini (shallow (wind-

119 WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY by the Museo SalineEttoreby theMuseo eInferza, this Monday to Saturday). del Popolo (€4.25,25minutes, one daily from Marsala, take localbus4fromPiazza morning. Toget totheembarkationpoint 6pm; inwinter, itonly operates inthe (€ San Pantaleo isaccessiblebyaprivate boat GETTING THERE&AWAY pink. rosy drinkasthesunturnssaltpans evening and thelagoon.Itisalovely placeforan overlookingwith outdoortables SanPantaleo furnishings. blue-and-yellow decked outwithterracotta floors andneat mills andSanPantaleo. The rooms are nicely café, overlooking theirwind- thesaltpans, spot hasthree lovely roomslocated above a 42; ContradaEttore Infersa 55;s/d€100/130; La Finestra sulSale SLEEPING &EATING saltpans. the that youcanweave yourwayinandoutof tion about renting canoes to Saturday.Insummer,askattherecep- its windmillfrom4pmto6pmWednesday of runs process;iteven thewholesalt-making inanoldwindmillthatshowsavideo housed sion €3; eInferza SalineEttore Museo ure is Oct-Feb, 9am-1pm&3-6.30pmMar-Sep) Museum submerged road.Afterwards, visitthe port anddrydock,wherethe youcansee to variousexcavations, includingtheancient stroll aroundtheisland,followingpath thing should remain. Youcantake apleasant sothatnoliving sowing thegroundwithsalt as theRomansutterly destroyedCarthage, site Phoenician intheworld best-preserved coveted foritsstrategic position.Itisalsothe intheMediterranean, settlements Phoenician ogy revealed wasoneof themostimportant Whathisweekend archaeol-the museum. of artefacts Phoenician thatnowappearin theuniquecollection island andassembling a villahere, andspentdecadesexcavating the of pottery unearthed. He thathadbeen built who wasintriguedbytheunusualfragments the amateur archaeologist Whitaker, Joseph 120 3 return On themainlandnearpierissmall There isalsoabusycaféopposite thepier, H OTWS • Mraa THE SOUTHWEST••Marsala Il Giovanetto di Mozia h

( % 9.30am-1.30pm &3-7pm) ) , which operates 9amtoaround 0923 712598;admission€6; ( % 0923 733003;fax31 ( % (€ , . 0923 966936;admis-

. Itsmaintreas- 5 perhour)so a salt museum museum a salt h a 9am-1pm Whitaker Whitaker ) Run internet access. per hr€6; Francesco; Viale VittorioVeneto, which runssoutheast Nuovathe Porta (NewGate) atoneendof The mainentrancetotheoldcityisthrough byViaLungomarerated fromthesea Boeo. The oldcityisclustered aroundthetip,sepa- looking outontothevastMediterranean Sea. The cityof Marsala hugsasmallpromontory Orientation touristbrochureinto every in the city. strong army,aclaimtofamethatfindsitsway in hisrickety oldboatswithhisfamous1000- Allah (Port of God). Arabs, whogave ititscurrent nameMarsa Romans. InAD830itwasconquered bythe tofallthe it wasthelastPunicsettlement fortifying itwith7m-thickwallsthatensured Lilibeo,callingtheircityLilybaeonand Capo who escapedfromMozia. here Theysettled on of family fun. and, judgingbythecrowdsinsquare, lots is allabout thesimplepleasures –food,wine by animposingcathedral,tranquilMarsala buildings, withabusymainsquare guarded Marsala is.Elegantandfullof baroque stately few peoplerealise whatacharmer thetownof Many wines,but dessert knowabout itssweet pop 78,000 MARSALA THE SOUTHWEST Police Ospedale SanBagio Regionale Baglio Anselmi. Archeologico totheMuseo 2pm &4-8pmTue-Sun) Next Information booth Comunale Biblioteca Ambulance of Marsala. You’ll findbankswithATMs allover thetown of the old city. situatedYou’ll findthetrainstation southeast della RepubblicaishalfwayupViaGaribaldi. Garibaldi.Piazza theolderPorta city through north alongVialedeiMilleandenter theold from PiazzaPiemonte eLombardowalk from ViaLungomare Boeo. Alternatively, Gramsci; Information It washere in1860thatGaribaldilanded Marsala wasfoundedbythePhoenicians (questura; h h h 24hr) ( 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)Has 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, % 24hr) % 0923 951410) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (Via Lungomare Boeo; (Via 0923 9243 71; CorsoAntonio ( (Town Library; 100 Via XI Maggio; Library;100ViaXIMaggio; (Town % 0923 716031;Piazza San h 9am- ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ 25 35;ViaLungomare Boeo;admission€3; friendly tourist officewithagoodmap tourist friendly and brochures. h lonelyplanet.com been part of the Carthaginian fleet attacked by partof fleet been theCarthaginian men, the35m-long warship tohave isthought would have looked like. Manned by 68oars- reconstructed togive animpression of whatit only asmallpartof theoriginalship,carefully lagoon; it’sactually in 1971theStagnone genius. Thewreckseafaring wasdiscovered remaining of physicalevidence Phoenician delicate remnantsago, andthese are theonly during theFirst PunicWarnearly 3000years The warship theEgadi wassunkoff Islands Mon, Tue &Thu,9am-1.30pm4-6.30pmWedFri-Sun) BaglioAnselmi Regionale Archeologico warshipstructed inits Carthaginian worth thetripalone,ispartiallyrecon- Marsala’s finesttreasure, anddefinitely BAGLIO ANSELMI MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO REGIONALE Sights office Tourist Just southeastofPiazza della Repubblica. Post office MEDITERRANEAN

1 3 2 MARSALA Via Lungomare Via 8am-2pm &3-8pmMon-Sat,9am-noonSun)A SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Hotel Centrale...... Villa Cavallotti...... Porta Nuova...... Palazzo Comunale...... Fiammingi...... BaglioAnselmi...... Insula Romana...... Convento delCarmine..... Pietro...... Cine Impero...... Cathedral...... Tourist Office...... Post Office...... Police...... Ospedale SanBagio...... Information Booth...... Biblioteca Comunale...... Museo degliArazzi Museo ArcheologicoRegionale Complesso MonumentaleSan oe adn...... D2 Hotel Garden...... SEA

(Via Garibaldi; Garibaldi; (Via Boeo 12 AC ( Archeologico % 2 Parco THESOUTHWEST••Marsala 0923 71 40 97; Via XI Maggio 100; 0923 714097;ViaXIMaggio

Viale N Sauro Viale Vittorio Veneto Vittorio Viale 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 h 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B1 B1 B1 C2 B2 A1 B1 B2 C1 B1 B2 C2 C2 D1 C1 A1 C2

8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) Viale Isonzo Via Delle Sirene Delle Via 8 EATING ioa...... C2 Vivona...... Pasticceria diGianfranco Market...... La SirenaUbriaca...... Il GalloeL'Innamorata.... Garibaldi...... Divino...Rosso...... Caffeteria GrandItalia..... Via Amando Diaz

11 Via Sibilla Via

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24 Via Frissella Via B2 B2 C2 B2 B1 C2 Via Garibaldi7 Piazza del 26 1 Popolo Piazza San Francesco 9 5 interior, dividedinto three aisleshighlighted tion byareturning emigrant). Thecavernous pleted until1956(courtesy of acashdona- in 1628,thechurch’s façadewasn’tcom- by theimposing elegant PiazzadellaRepubblica,dominated tone of thetown.Attown’sheartis Nuova will enter thehistoriccentre through Lilibeo,you Walking ordrivingfromCapo PIAZZA DELLAREPUBBLICA villa. Roman Romana recovered fromthenearbydigof the centuries AD,aswellotherbitsandbobs fromthe3rdand5th two beautifulmosaics or’s woodenbutton.Inanadjacentroomare corks fromamphorae,abrush andasail- found onboard:ropes,ceramicfragments, extinguished by the Romans. thatwas intoacivilisation viding aglimpse on Mozia theshipresonates withhistory,pro- If youvisithere after viewingtheexcavations of attheBattle Egadi. the Romansin241BC 19 3 14 TRANSPORT SHOPPING aoi...... C2 Sapori...... Enoteca Miriadedi Local Buses...... (see28) Buses toPalermo...... Bus Station...... The exhibitionalsoincludesobjects Piazza della

6 Repubblica

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Insula 18 Porta Porta 121 WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY dren, enjoythe theymight rlxn walk. relaxing has aplayground andacres of spacefora a large Nuova parkjustoutsidePorta that popular duringthe Fascist era. lous exampleof futuristarchitecture Italian is the On thewestern edge of PiazzadellaVittoria OTHER SIGHTS and acentre for civil weddings. to itsformerglory,andisnowanartgallery police barracks,theconvent returned hasbeen Adelaide. After years of neglectandaspellas first cametoMarsala withRoger I’swidow building date from1155,whentheCarmelites admission free; delCarmine Convento area isdedicated to folk traditions. and items fromLilibaeo’snecropolis.Another of Eroscatching arideonthebackof aduck, with aninteresting fragment of asculpture tions onGaribaldi,anarchaeological section the 16thcentury),ithaspermanentexhibi- monastery (datingfrom former Benedictine & 4-8pm) Via Ludovico AnselmiCorreale; admissionfree; Complesso MonumentaleSanPietro inabeautifulrestoredHoused building,the & CONVENTODEL CARMINE COMPLESSO MONUMENTALE SANPIETRO across three dimly lit floors. carefully restored andare nowondisplay havefrom theSaracens,tapestries been Representing theRomancapture of Jerusalem presented themtothecathedralin1589. (1523–95), byFelipe II.Lombardointurn archbishop of Messina, AntonioLombardo 1550, andwere gifted totheMarsala-born were 1530and between madeinBrussels They magnificentFlemishtapestries. its eight 57; admission€2.50; Arazzi Fiammingi Just behindthecathedralis MUSEO DEGLIARAZZIFIAMMINGI Palace). (Senatorial merly knownasthePalazzo Senatorio arcaded tures bytheGaginibrothers but little else. anumberof columns,contains sculp- by tall 122 On theeastern sideof thesquare isthe If you’re travelling withsmallchil- Another attractive galleryistherestored H OTWS • Mraa THE SOUTHWEST••Marsala Cine Impero attractslocalsandvisitors alike. A Palazzo Comunale h (

10am-1pm &5-7pm) h % (Empire Cinema),amarvel- 9am-1pm &4-6pmTue-Sun) 0923 71 29 03; Via Guiseppe Garraffa 0923 712903;ViaGuiseppeGarraffa (

% 0923 711631;Piazza Carmine; (TownHall), for- Villa Cavallotti Villa ( . Parts of the %

Museo degli Museo 0923 718741; h 9am-1pm , with , air-con €55; bathroom& s/d withshared bathroom€35/45,dwithprivate have asafe andfridge, are centred onan ager andtheunexcitingrooms,which all Nuova.Porta It’srunbyafriendlyman- simple hotel inanexcellentlocationnear .delfinobeach.com; ViaLungomare 672;s Mediterraneo the Vajarassa wineryisagreat choice. It’s costumes and manychildren dress incolourful as saints. crucifixion, leadinguptoChrist’s theevents depict Actors tradition. andacenturies-old annualevent most important sion) HeldontheThursdaybefore Easter,thisisMarsala’s €45-75, d€65-130; courtyard. internal marsala.it; ViaSalinisti19; rperperson€35; cheap. and with mismatched furnishing. Friendly,quiet oldcouple.sweet Ithasneat,cleanrooms this goodold-fashioned city. the centre; mosttend tobeontheroadsexiting Marsala hasfew hotels situated withinthecity Sleeping increasingly attracts major artists. this festival winecompaniesand issponsored byMarsala JazzFestival Marsala Santo ProcessionedelGiovedì Festivals &Events you enter Marsala from Trapani. ( opposite ). Youwillfinditonthe SS115as pool; thehotel alsohasa good restaurant scaped gardens, and there isagood-sized is insmallbungalows amidthehuge land- popular withfamilies.Theaccommodation faded19th-century villaisveryThis slightly .com; ViaFavorita 27;s€65-85,d€95-120; ing in advance isa good idea. are onlyfourroomsinthemanor,sobook- food, wineandtraditionalfurnishings. There Marsala, nearMozia,andhaslotsof good 6kmnorthofin atraditionalmanorhouse incl halfboard€60) .bagliovajarassa.com; ContradaSpagnola176;rperperson amenities. modern in blueandyellowequippedwithall gardens, theroomsare cheerfully decorated beach.wonderful sandy Dotted aroundthe is thesumptuousDelfino,situated ona , amere 3kmsouthof Marsala, Villa Favorita Villa Baglio Vajarassa Delfino BeachHotel Centrale Hotel Hotel Garden Hotel p ) Agrey blockof flatsdisguises

( pas ( Ifyouhave yourowncar, %

( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels %

/fax 0923 98 23 20; Via Gambini 36; /fax 0923982320;ViaGambini 0923 989100;www.villafavorita Held in the historic centre inJuly, Held inthehistoric ( 0923 951777;www.hotelcentrale % ( /fax 0923968628;www % ) At the turn-off to Attheturn-off pensione, (HolyThursdayProces- 0923 751076;www pas pa runbya ) A )

lonelyplanet.com bar serving superbpizza. Trythe bar serving €6.50-10; Divino…Rosso range of dishesdrenched in Marsala wine. a canopyof tree awhole branches andsample terrace of beneath thisLiberty-stylevilla. Eat in Marsala istherestaurant onthebeautiful €35-40; it–glassa –youguessed of Marsala. gofor in themiddle)or,ifthat’stoosweet, pastry (Turk’s head;blancmange withpuff trythe crumbs). Fordessert, spada dominate themains;try ricci made ravioli starters such as Slow FoodMovement upfun badge) serves fun littlerestaurant (anotherbearer of the dishes, this simple butfabulouslydelectable Bilardello 18;meals€35-40; end. the fish. Don’tmiss aglass of Marsala sweet for food, whilethemainsare mainlyabout grilled from fishcouscoustofresh withsea- pasta anchovies). The nation of aubergines, olives tomatoes, and orthedelicious matoes trythesun-driedto- a wideantipastibuffet; Garibaldi isatraditionaltrattoriathatserves Marsala’s SlowFoodMovement electees, the meals €20-30; Garibaldi RESTAURANTS Eating rice balls) stuffed with meatorfish,rice balls)stuffed home- Villa Favorita Villa eL’Innamorata Il Gallo An excellentoption inthehistoriccentre, eventually boughtbyCinzanoin1920,whichmerged themundertheFloriolabel. who already ownedtheEgadi Islandsandtheirlucrative tunaplants. Allofthewinerieswere totheUSAandAustralia in1806.Theexporting thirdbigproducerwascannyVincenzo Florio, setupthefirst rivalwinery, BenjaminInghamandhisnephew,JosephWhitaker, on theaction. after theBattleofNile(1798),andby19thcenturyotherentrepreneurs wanted togetin in ordertosupplythesailors’rationofoneglasswineperday.Nelsonplacedahuge and, was howtogetthewineEnglandwithoutitgoingbad?Headdedadashofpure alcohol wines totheseeminglyinsatiablesweetpalate of18th-centuryEngland,buttheonlyproblem whenhesmeltit.The thelocal soapmerchantsetupshopinMarsalatomarket opportunity Fresh outofsherrycountryinsouthernSpain,JohnWoodhouse’s‘sweetnose’knewabusiness WINEWINE, SWEET (sea urchin meat).Tunaandswordfish (sea The real successofthewinescamewhenBritishNavyuseditasanalternative toport (swordfish roulade stuffed withbread- (swordfishrouladestuffed h voila, h

( 8-11pm) % h 7-11pm) Marsala’s fortified wineswere born. Marsala’sfortified , 0923 953006;Piazza dell’Addolorata35; and fresh pasta with sardines or andfresh withsardines pasta ( %

closed Satlunch&Sunevening) ( % Themostclassyeatingoption THESOUTHWEST••Marsala arancinette 0923 71 17 70; Via XI Maggio; pizzas 0923 711770;ViaXIMaggio; primi is arestaurant-cum-wine 0923 989100;ViaFavorita 27;meals

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% (first courses) closed Jul-Sep) caponata 329 2918503;ViaStefano (smalldeep-fried involtini depesce testa diTurco Perfect for (acombi- prosciutto Oneof

range is oneof themostpopularcafés inMarsala, 21; sweetsfrom€1.50) place to buy thecream of Marsala’s wines. On theroadtoMazara delVallo, thisisthe 80; Lungomare Florio; be particularlyhelpful in this regard. winesfromtheregion.purchase and sort), andit’sthebestplacetosample Marsala likes thenon-Marsala itswine(even pal offices. situateddell’Addolorata, nexttothe munici- ( Marsala’s open-airfresh produce SELF-CATERING andsomemean (hot table) ice creams. age bracket. Ithasagood-value itscustomersthough are mainlyinthe80-plus 3;sandwiches€3.50; della Repubblica cuits are perfect for home.taking andtraditionalcakes.sweets Thealmondbis- diGianfrancoVivona Pasticceria CAFÉS pesto, which youcan later purchase. andtasteat theoutsidetables, thewine/oil/ other localdelicacies.Youcansitatthebaror of selection wine,olivea fantastic oil,dipsand place forpredinner aperitiviandsnacks,with €8)is 39;aperitivi .sicilywine.com; ViaGaribaldi Fici. Palazzo on thepavement, overlooked bytheimposing or somethingwithfresh Dineout tomatoes. crudo conrucola Shopping h Cantine Florio Florio Cantine GrandItalia Caffeteria o morning) La Sirena Ubriaca La Sirena is heldonasquare Piazza off

( Oneof thebetter placesfor % h (Parma hamwithrocket) 0923 781111;fax 9823 3-5pm Mon-Thu, 10am-noonFri)

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h 328 1053522;www closed Sun) Enoteche tavola calda a great market This 123 can

WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY convivial surrounds. little mliutrl feel. multicultural old townstreets, givingthetownareally immigrants live withinthelabyrinthof the work onMazara’s Mostof fishing fleet. the and Maghreb arrivingannually, mainlyto withhundredsItaly, of peoplefromTunisia of percentages of thehighest immigrantsin strongly felt here tohave –thetownissaid one Sicily andtheNorthAfricaninfluence isstill completely. almost face, andtoget awayfromthetourist trail Sicily’sNorthAfrican spottosee fantastic would bewelcomed).Thislittletownisa it arugged charm some renovations (though lost, andthedilapidated oldbuildingsgive really thatyouwon’tever small enough get baroque andNorman-periodbuildings.It’s each other, andsprinkledwithmagnificent full of narrowlittlestreets thatgoaround Casbah), kasbah (infact,it’sknownasLa Mazara’s oldquarter islike aNorthAfrican pop 50,700 MAZARA DELVALLO to Marettimo €11.80). to theislands(Favignana €5.30, andLevanzo €5.30). Ustica Linesalsorunsdailyhydrofoils Molo DoganatotheEgadi Islands(Favignana ( three hours, six daily). (€2.30, 20minutes, 10daily)andPalermo (€8, (€3, 30minutes, 20daily),Mazara delVallo the train station. inPiazzaEPizzo,frontofthe busstation in thecentre of stopat town.Allotherbuses arrive atPiazzadelPopolo,off ViaMazzini, part of thecoastisbytrain.Palermo buses hours), butthebestwaytotravel alongthis Saturday, oneSunday)andPalermo (€8,2½ (€10, fourhours, three dailyMondayto dailyMondaytoFriday),Agrigentoeight There are fromTrapani(€3,30minutes, buses Getting There&Away Piazza del Popolo. tion foroneof thetours. Take bus16from a taste of theproducts;faxtomake a reserva- the process of makingMarsala, givingthem Florio opensitsdoors tovisitors toexplain 124 % Between June and September JuneandSeptember Between , Marsala fromTrapani Regular trainsserve Mazara wasone of thekey citiesof Saracen Enoteca Miriade diSapori Miriade Enoteca 0923 712060,953434) enoteca H OTWS • Mzr e al delValloTHE SOUTHWEST••Mazara offers in goodwinesfortasting runs a service from runs aservice

(Via Garibaldi 30) Garibaldi (Via Sandokan This ὈὈ ὈὈ centre. h .mazara-del-vallo.tp.it inItalian;Piazza SantaVeneranda; Tourist office Tourist BeliceNet Mokarta. andATMsBanks canbefoundonPiazza iseastofThe trainstation Corso Umberto I. is intheoldcity,northwestof PiazzaMokarta. Casbah onthewaterfront.Piazza Mokarta La north–south fromPiazzaMatteotti downto Mazara’s mainstreet, Corso UmbertoI,runs Orientation good numberof fast computers. vetrano 4; Information Pantelleria To 4 1 3 2 MAZARA DELVALLO 8am-2pm Mon-Sat, &3-6pmWed) Inthe historic 17 TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION S u tp...... B3 AST BusStop...... Molo Mazaro Siremar...... Lumia BusStop...... Ferry Terminal...... Agenzia Punica...... Lo Scoiattolo...... Il Gambero...... Baby Luna...... Alla Kasbah...... Hopps Hotel...... Foresteria MonasticaSanMicheleArcangelo...... Museo Diocesano...... Museo delSatiro...... Museo Civico...... Chiesa diSant'Ignazio...... Chiesa diSanNicolòRegale...... Cattedrale delSanSalvatore...... Castle...... Tourist Office...... Regina Caito Piazza Plebiscito 4 19 h Piazza ( Casbah % 12 La 7 A M EDITRAN 9.30am-1pm &4.30-9pmMon-Sat)Hasa Via Bagno (

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( % Museo Civico Museo Cattedrale del San Salvatore delSanSalvatore Cattedrale 0923 933917;Piazza Plebiscito;admission€6; Il Satiro Danzante Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio , held in the deconsecrated , heldinthedeconsecrated

(Civic Museum; (Civic Museum; , which wascompletely is on the same piazza, isonthesame h THE SOUTHWEST •• Mazara delVallo THESOUTHWEST••Mazara 9am-1pm daily&3-6pm % (theDancing 0923 941777;

(Piazza della Museo del Museo . 31; Viadell’Orologio;admissionfree; Museo Diocesano Museo theChierici (datingfrom1710);ithouses deithe elegant,two-storey Seminario very friendly and efficient. is spreads andapricotwalls, andtheservice tion. Roomsare witholive comfortable, bed- loca- modern hotel withagood seafront around anicepool, thisisabig,white, .it; ViaGHopps29;s€52-68,d€75-95; kindly atmosphere. Enter at the side. exterior. Itsroomsare simple,buthave a inaconvertedis set monastery withalovely ayouthhostel, thiscentralplace Essentially Arcangelo6;dm€15-30,d€30-50) Italian; Piazza SanMichele ( Mazara isabusiness townwithfew hotels. Sleeping the Tunisianswhonow live here. retains astrongArab connectionthrough run-down butinteresting, it ifonlybecause hammam city’s mainthoroughfare, which stillhasits streetmost important was once theheartof theSaracencity.The maze of tinystreets andalleywaysthatwas struction in 1124. remained virtuallyunchanged sinceitscon- bustling fishmarket. Aperfect cube,ithas Palermo; admissionfree) little the twee for (when theyare goes floodlit).Thesame ination iswonderfullyatmosphericatnight better theirforlornru- days,although seen Count Roger’s Norman theragged remainsOn PiazzaMokarta, of NORMAN MONUMENTS &LACASBAH texts. 18th-century Mon-Sat) 13th-century painted cross. In thechapel of isarare totheright thealtar Gagini, andstuccoworkbyAntonioFerraro. of byDomenicoandAntonello a bevy statues featuring theTransfiguration,surroundedby Inside, there isaheavily ornamented altar century of CountRoger tramplingaSaracen. isarelief theportal style. fromthe16th Over rebuilt inthe17thcenturybaroque % Hopps Hotel Arcangelo Monastica SanMichele Foresteria Northwest of thechurch is Other buildingsonthesquare include /fax 0923 90 65 65; www.foresteriasanmichele.com in /fax 0923906565;www.foresteriasanmichele.com , whose library contains anumberof librarycontains , whose (publicbaths). Today,thearea is

( Chiesa diSanNicolòRegale %

(Diocesan Museum; (Diocesan Museum; 0923 946133;www.hoppshotel , which overlooks the castle Via Bagno Via have definitely pas h La %

9am-1.30pm Casbah 0923 9094 , theold

(Porta (Porta ) Set 125 , a

WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY Veneto) able pricesandpretty goodfood.Theanti- meals €25-30; hour, 10 daily). change atAlcamoDiramazione (€3.85,one 20 minutes). ComingfromPalermo, youmust (€2.30, 20minutes) andCastelvetrano (€2.15, so withTrapani (€4, 50minutes), Marsala buy yourtickets at Castelvetrano, leaving fromPiazza Matteotti; Marsala, Trapani and serving also hasbuses youcanbuyaticketstation; onthebus.Lumia two daily).TheAST busstopisbesidethetrain daily) andCastelvetrano (€1.65,20minutes, three daily),Marsala (€2.15,25minutes, two AST toTrapani(€4.40,1½hours, hasbuses Getting There&Away pizzas €6; and 86 22;ViaLungomare meals€20-25; Mazzini; dishes. vegetarian cous here isespeciallygoodhere, asare the head tothehistoriccentre. Thefishcous- €25-30; andtheservice affair is impeccable. fish.Therestaurantthe delectable isanelegant Pescatore, Mazara’s bestrestaurant, tosample in the evenings. andfish arepasta good, too. Pizzaisserved isavegetarianpasto buffet dream, andthe meals with terraces overlooking the water: Mazzini forahostof restaurants andbars, all Head tothepublicgardensonViaLungomare wellinMazaraEating isn’tmuch of aproblem. Eating 126 There are houror trainconnectionsevery Lo Scoiattolo Also recommended are Alla Kasbah Il Pescatore perfect forapicnic.perfect toSelinuntetransported acrosswoodenlogsbyoxen orslaves. Archaeologyaside,thesite is to allowthestonemasonaccesscolumn.Whenremoved, thecolumnswouldhave been in fromthegate are columnsready Aroundeachisagapof50cm twocarved forextraction. overgrown andwild,it’sthedomainofforaging goatsnibblingthewildflowers. Rocche diCusa ), where mostofSelinunte’s buttery yellowstonewashewn.The site ischarming– Turn offatPrincipe-Torre Cusa toheadfortheGreek quarries,knownastheCave diCusa (or countrytoCampobello diMazara.From Castelvetrano theSS115souththroughwine-making take CAVEDETOUR: DICUSA

Il Gambero €20-25; H OTWS • Csevtao THE SOUTHWEST••Castelvetrano Round aboutare hugecolumndrumsforever toSelinunte. awaitingtransport About400m around the corner. h h closed Mon) h closed Thu) h

( ( ( closed Mon)

%

( % % closed Thu) % 0923 947580;ViaCastelvetrano191; 0923 946313;ViaLungomare Mazzini; 0923 932932;ViaLungomare Mazzini; 0923 90 61 26; Via Itria 10;meals 0923 906126;ViaItria Forsomethingdifferent, , bothon the seafront. Agenzia Punica Agenzia GourmetsgatheratIl This spothasreason- Baby Luna h

(Corso Vittorio (Corso Vittorio ( %

closed Mon) 0923 94

from the 5th century BC. Upthestreet, on from the5thcenturyBC. di Selinunte, €3; Castelvetrano fromvariousplacesinthe (€34, 2½hours, June onedaily)between dit Salvatore wanttocheck Giulianomight a hotel where stayed Goethe in 1787. Palermo masterpiece. Itisbuiltonthesite of scale modelof theTeatro Massimo ( p88 ), his asasmaller-built byGiovanni Basile Battista Selinus Piazza Garibaldi,isthe19th-century Civico of limited interest save forthesmall Castelvetrano isOn theroadtoSelinunte, pop 30,500/elev187m CASTELVETRANO September. and of therichest andmost powerfulcities inthe andfortwocenturiesitwasone inhabitants, site isoneof themost captivating in Sicily. impressive of theancientGreek world,andthe The ruinsof are Selinunte some of themost (€2.40, onehour, three daily). five dailyMondaytoSaturday) andMarsala (€0.77,20minutes, to Saturday),Selinunte (€4.40, twoto2½hours, three daily Monday region andaroundit,includingAgrigento in hisbook lick herson’sbloodfromthepaving stones– Giuliano’s motherkneltonthegroundto account of themacabre incident–when gives afascinating in 1950.NormanLewis 94-100) Mannone (Via out thecompletely unremarkable SELINUNTE In itsheyday,thehuge cityhadover 100,000 There to are regular busservices Siremar runsafastboattoPantelleria Those familiarwiththestoryofThose theban- h

( 9am-1pm &3.30-7.30pm) %

(admission free; 0924 90 49 32; Via Giuseppe Garibaldi; admission 0924 904932;ViaGiuseppeGaribaldi; In Sicily a bronze statue of abronzestatue ayoungman where hisbodywasfound . h 9am-1pm &3.30-7.30pm) , homeof the lonelyplanet.com courtyard Museo Efebo Efebo Teatro ,

ὄὄὄ of the clifftop temples.of Thepathdownistothe theclifftop below, fromwhere there views are marvellous a walkalongthestunningstretch of beach temples are proof of its influence. remainsworld. Thespectacular of itsmany lonelyplanet.com neighbour, Segesta, which endedabruptlyin neighbour, Segesta, oflitany territorial disputes withitsnorthern and prestige. Thecity’sgrowthresulted ina protectionUnder Syracusan itgrew inpower of atHimerain480BC. Gelon Syracuse defeat byallegiance after theCarthaginian Selinunte. colony in Greek), sotheGreeks namedtheirnew around were overgrown withcelery( ing asecure naturalharbour. Theplains the ModioneandCottone,latter form- twomajorbetween rivers (nowsilted up), had awonderfullocationatoppromontory from nearbyMegara It Hyblaeain628BC. byagroupofcolonies, established settlers wasthemostwesterly ofSelinunte theGreek History left of theAcropolis parking area. 1 3 2 SELINUNTE Originally allied with Carthage, itswitchedOriginally alliedwithCarthage, No visit to Selinunte iscomplete without No visittoSelinunte Sanctuary of Malophoros 2 AC

THESOUTHWEST••Selinunte Modione ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Acropolis (Unexcavated) Ancient City Site of B ὄὄ ὄὄ M EDITRAN 6 selinon 5 9 3 4 2nd Entrance To Castelvetrano(20km) SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Temple D...... ...... Temple A...... Sanctuary ofMalophoros...... Ticket Office...... Electric Carts...... (see1) epeB...... B3 Temple B...... North Gate S EA identified itslocation.Excavations began the 16thcentury,whenaDominicanmonk Ages. Middle byanearthquakeples, wasfinishedoff inthe mainlytem-could. Whattheyleftstanding, but notbefore theydestroyedasmuch asthey (Marsala), inSicily, capital theCarthaginian city, itscitizenswere relocated toLilybaeum withtheRomansabouttoconquer BC, over thecityandinitiated itsrecovery. In250 One yearlater, Hermocrates of took Syracuse tobeslaves.fend theirfreedom, theydeserved replied abletode- thatas they hadn’tbeen lives, Hannibalto negotiate forthesurvivors’ to theAgrigentan ambassadors whosought and prevent theirlooting.Inafamousretort fire set fear tothetemples thattheymight ofout of of humanitybutbecause asense the were these sparedtemples not assurvivors; whohadtaken sheltering onlythose inthe destroyed thecityafter anine-daysiege, leav- and arrived to take revenge. formerallyhappilyobligedhelp. Selinunte’s whenthelatter calledforCarthaginian 409 BC Troops commandedbyHannibal utterly The citywasforgotten untilthemiddleof

ὄὄ Strada dei Strada

Cottone

Gorgo di

Cottone Templi Temples Eastern 1 6 5 4 3 2 B3 B3 B3 A2 D2 11 EATING SLEEPING epeO...... B3 Temple O...... Lido Azzurro...... Al RistorantePierrot...... Hotel Garzia...... Hotel Alceste...... Temple G...... ...... 0 0 ὄὄ ὄὄ 7

Via Marco Polo Entrance toSite SS115 8 12 13 1 D di Selinunte(1km)

SS115

Via G Via 300 m Cabo to To Mazaradel Vallo (20km); To Marinella 0.2 miles

Agrigento Via Stazione Via Via (107km) 11 10 13 12

9 8 7 Alceste 127 D3 D3 C3 D3 D2 D2

10 WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN WESTERN SICILY €5) tions and diedsoonafter). Thetwo other during theinitialexcava- tracted thedisease (a bitter ironyforWilliam Harris, whocon- saved thecityfromscourge of malaria water-drainageEmpedocles, whose scheme the Agrigentan physiologistandphilosopher period andcouldhave dedicated to been Temple B dedicated toApollo. Adjacentisthesmaller ( p85 thatthetemple believe was). Experts Archeologico RegionaleinPalermoMuseo pediment; bothof canbeviewedinthe these mous Gorgon’s maskthatonceadornedthe this formidable structure, as wastheenor- by Harris andAngell were onceapartof Thestunningmetopesfound century BC. on thesite, builtinthemiddleof the6th of Selinunte, Neptune orVenus. Virtuallythesymbol anddedicated toeither the 6thcenturyBC most is temples (A,B, C,DandO).Thenorthern- sections. separate east–west, dividingtheacropolisintofour fares –onerunningnorth–south,theother bytwothorough- di Cottone. Itiscrossed plateau overlooking thenow-silted-up Gorgo litical andsociallife, occupiesaslanted The acropolis,theheartof po- Selinunte’s THE ACROPOLIS Sights a pick-uptimetosuit each person. dropping youoff ateach pointandarranging office youcanpickupan near theeastern temples. Justbehindtheticket h the sion knownastheGorgo di Cottone. requires a15-minute hike acrossthedepres- leads totheeastern temples, whiletheother You canaccessthesite viatwoentrances:one Manuzza, thesite of theancientcityproper. out over avastarea dominated bythehillof and theSanctuaryof Malophoros. Itisspread acropolis, theancientcity,eastern temples The archaeological site isdividedintothe uncovered the first metopes. gists, WilliamHarris andSamuelAngell, who in 1823,courtesy of twoEnglish archaeolo- 128 Orientation &Information . Thecartstake youaroundthewholesite, Huddled inthesoutheastern partare five You canget informationabout thesite at 9am-1hr before sunsetMon-Sat,9am-noon&3-6pmSun) ticket office ticket H OTWS • Slnne THE SOUTHWEST••Selinunte , which dates fromtheHellenistic Temple D

Temple C ( % , builttowardstheendof 0924 46251;adult/concession€6/3; istheoldesttemple electric cart electric (per person

, Via Alceste21; s€45-60,d€70-90; crowned withreal human heads. in thearea (nearly12,000),includingstelae votive offerings toDemeter have found been the socialhistoryof of Thousands Selinunte. finds of thesite astheyprovide into aninsight arelook at,these someof themostimportant they’re Although for sacrifices. notmuch to can bemadeout;thelarger of thetwowasused goddess of fertility. Amid thedebris,twoaltars ruins of thetemple dedicated toDemeter, the and upadirtpath,you’llreach theravaged now-dry river Modione(formerlytheSelinon) If youwalkwestfromtheacropolisacross THE SANCTUARY OFMALOPHOROS as a necropolis. mayhave thecity struction of used 409BC of thede- suggests thatsurvivors evidence area has onlybeguninrecent years, and excavated of of allthesites. Exploration the lived,of inhabitants istheleast Selinunte’s of theacropolis,ancientcity,where most Occupying thehillof Manuzza, tothenorth THE ANCIENTCITY twins Castor and Pollux. havethat theymight dedicated tothe been suggestedboth styleandsize,it’sbeen Theyare virtuallyidenticalinand 480BC. aresea, themostrecent, 490 builtbetween temples, te beachfront. the there are alsoplentyof restaurants along anextensive menu; well regarded andserves rants. Therestaurant attheHotel Alceste is tion andacoupleof reasonably pricedrestau- whereSelinunte, youcanfindaccommoda- The nearest towntotheruinsisMarinella di Sleeping &Eating rubble. impressive the Greek world.Todayitisamassive pileof completed, wasoneof thelargest temples in never and,although in the6thcenturyBC Temple G the three totheticket temples close office. out duetoitscompleteness. Itisthefirst of andreconstructed in1958,itstandstury BC the majestic ning of ruins,crownedby allSelinunte’s North of thesite entranceisthemost stun- THE EASTERNTEMPLES Hotel Alceste Hotel , the northernmost temple, wasbuilt Temple A Temple E

( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels and 0924 46184;www.hotelalceste.it; . Builtinthe5thcen- Temple O pa , closest tothe, closest ) Thissmall upper floors have views. sea archaeological park,andtheroomson ofnishings. Itiswithinwalkingdistance the and tidyroomsdecked outwithpinefur- family-run hotel hasanexcellentrestaurant Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake hear thecontented hubbubdown the road. and goodfish, andit’ssopopularthatyoucan 108; meals€25-30) reach of therestaurants. value.Excellent withineasy is situated ontheseafront right modern hotel isvery totheruinsand close Via AntonioPigafetta 6;s€50-100,d€90-120; Al Ristorante Pierrot Al Ristorante Garzia Hotel This place does a fantastic buffet buffet afantastic Thisplacedoes

( % 0924 4 60 24; www.hotelgarzia.com; 0924 46024;www.hotelgarzia.com;

( % 09244 62 05; Via Marco Polo 09244 6205;ViaMarco THESOUTHWEST••Selinunte a This ) water, Lido Azzurroisalsorecommended. follow the signposts. driving fromAgrigento, take theSS115and the brownsignpostsforabout 6km.Ifyou’re the Castelvetrano theA29andfollow exitoff Vallo andTrapani.Iftravelling bycar,take fromAgrigento,Lumia buses Mazara del utes, five daily),which canbereached by toCastelvetrano ( Selinunte AST linkMarinella andSalemibuses di Getting There&Away €30-35; Lido Azzurro h closed Mon)

( % 0924 4 62 11; Via Marco Polo51;meals 0924 46211;ViaMarco Teetering above right the € 0.77, 20min-

129 WESTERN SICILY SICILY WESTERN