THE PUBLICATION OF THE NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 34, No. Vol

03

9 770003 532006 Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 Issue 237 Contents www.antarctic.org.nz

is published quarterly by the New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc. ISSN 0003-5327 30 The New Zealand Antarctic Society is a Registered Charity CC27118

EDITOR: Lester Chaplow ASSISTANT EDITOR: Janet Bray New Zealand Antarctic Society PO Box 404, Christchurch 8140, New Zealand Email: [email protected]

INDEXER: Mike Wing The deadlines for submissions to future issues are 1 November, 1 February, 1 May and 1 August. News 25 Shackleton’s Bad Lads 26 PATRON OF THE NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY: From Gateway City to Volunteer Duty at Scott Base 30 Professor Peter Barrett, 2008 NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY How You Can Help Us Save Sir Ed’s Antarctic Legacy 33 LIFE MEMBERS The Society recognises with life membership, First at Arrival Heights 34 those people who excel in furthering the aims and objectives of the Society or who have given outstanding service in Antarctica. They are Conservation Trophy 2016 36 elected by vote at the Annual General Meeting. The number of life members can be no more Auckland Branch Midwinter Celebration 37 than 15 at any one time. Current Life Members by the year elected: Wellington Branch – 2016 Midwinter Event 37 1. Jim Lowery (Wellington), 1982 2. Robin Ormerod (Wellington), 1996 3. Baden Norris (Canterbury), 2003 Travelling with the Huskies Through 4. Bill Cranfield (Canterbury), 2003 the Transantarctic Mountains 38 5. Randal Heke (Wellington), 2003 6. Bill Hopper (Wellington), 2004 Hillary’s TAE/IGY Hut: Calling all stories 40 7. Arnold Heine (Wellington), 2006 8. Margaret Bradshaw (Canterbury), 2006 Polar Mariner: Beyond the Limits in Antarctica 41 9. Ray Dibble (Wellington), 2008 10. Norman Hardie (Canterbury), 2008 11. Colin Monteath (Canterbury), 2014 Malcolm John Macfarlane 42 12. John Parsloe (Canterbury), 2014 13. Graeme Claridge (Wellington), 2015 Worsley Enchanted 44 ELECTED OFFICERS OF THE SOCIETY: New Zealand Antarctic Society Membership 45 National President: Mariska Wouters South Island Vice-President: Margaret Bradshaw North Island Vice-President: Linda Kestle In Memoriam: The Heroes of the Antarctic 46 National Secretary: Myra Walton National Treasurer: Lester Chaplow Immediate Past-President: Jud Fretter

BRANCH CHAIRS: DO WE HAVE YOUR CORRECT CONTACT DETAILS? Auckland: Linda Kestle Are your membership and contact details up to date? You will have recently received your Canterbury: Ursula Rack membership renewal invoice. Please check the details and contact our Membership Officer – Wellington: Robin Falconer [email protected] – if anything needs to be corrected. In particular, with the sharp rise in postage costs we would appreciate having your email address.

Cover photo: Huskies at Scott Base. Photo by Dick McBride. © Antarctica New Zealand Pictorial Collection, 1971. Photo above: Setting up camp for overnight field training. Photo: Grant Hunter. Back cover: The cairn over Scott's final resting place. Issue 237 NEWS

From the Editor From the President

Welcome to an enlarged edition of Antarctic, As this issue goes to print we received funded with assistance from a bequest of Mr Francois confirmation from Antarctica New Zealand that our E. A. Lagace. Mr Lagace died in 2001, and left a members will again be able to apply for volunteer portion of his estate to the Society. work at Scott Base. This season the successful In this issue, an article on Shackleton’s Bad Lads applicants will help with work on Hillary's considers the reasons behind why he treated some TAE/IGY Hut alongside the Antarctic Heritage of his men in such a shabby way, in particular by Trust team. Hillary's TAE/IGY Hut was the Mess denying four of them a Polar Medal. The second Hut for the original Scott Base. All members have of our 2015–16 volunteers writes of going From been sent the application information. Gateway City to Volunteer Duty at Scott Base. Our national AGM will be hosted by the If you’ve been watching news reports in New Auckland Branch on 29 October. Jacqui Foley, Zealand this month, you will have heard of, and who is this year’s National Speaker, will talk possibly seen, the Expedition South journey of about the Society’s oral history programme. two tractors from Piha Beach to Queenstown. More information will be available soon. We look This was a trip to raise funds for the Antarctic forward to seeing you there. Heritage Trust (AHT) to help preserve Sir Ed’s Antarctic Legacy. Further donations can be made to Mariska Wouters www.expeditionsouth.nz. In First at Arrival Heights, Don Webster recalls the erection of the auroral radar station at the heights in the summer of 1959–60. June was the month Life Membership for Midwinter Dinners, and our Auckland and At the 2015 AGM of the Society, Life Wellington branches recount their events. Canterbury Membership was awarded to Dr Graeme Claridge branch also used the occasion of their Midwinter in recognition of his pioneering research on Dinner to present the Society’s Conservation Trophy Antarctic soils spanning over 50 years, and for to Lizzie Meek. his service as National Treasurer and long-serving A previous issue made mention of Peter Otway’s member of the Wellington Branch committee book It’s a Dog’s Life in Antarctica, and we include a (also as Treasurer). Graeme has represented the short excerpt from his book entitled Travelling with Society at several important Antarctic NGO the Huskies through the Transantarctic Mountains. meetings in Wellington. AHT are also appealing for any objects, photographs or stories relating to Hillary’s TAE/IGY Hut. A review of the book Polar Mariner: Beyond the Worsley Enchanted: Limits in Antarctica follows. Finalist in Best Awards Finally, we conclude with an obituary for a former Best Design Awards President of the NZAS, and the Society’s Webmaster, Worsley Enchanted (see page Finalist 2016 Malcolm John Macfarlane, who died earlier this year. 44) has been confirmed as a Our back cover poem is from a small folio album finalist in the Best Awards – of letterpress ephemera and clippings pertaining to New Zealand’s Best Graphic Wor sle y the Scott tragedy in the Antarctic. The compiler Design, Editorial and Books. Enchanted was one J. W. Stones Esq. Clearly, he had followed Our congratulations, and DOUGLAS STEWART Scott’s career, and clipped all manner of newspaper thanks, to Gusto Design for their creative design, clippings and magazine articles and pictures, running and to Myra Walton for her illustrations. This is a to a collection of over 70 pages. He penned two huge honour as not only are the Best Awards the poems about the Antarctic. The first was about the top design awards in New Zealand, but we were Discovery expedition, and the second, In Memoriam. up against agencies and entries from Australia The Heroes of the Antarctic, is reprinted here. as well. The winners will be announced on 14 October, but this finalist nomination alone is a Lester Chaplow great achievement.

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 25 HISTORY

Shackleton’s Bad Lads

By Andrew Leachman

yacht Endurance in July 1914. An entry in the diary of Thomas Orde-Lees dated 12 October 1915 states, “Holness is the youngest,2 a Yorkshire lad. He is perhaps the most loyal to the expedition” (an opinion not obviously shared by Shackleton). Whilst stranded on Elephant Island in June 1916, it was Ernie Holness who managed to catch the first fish. Earlier in the voyage, it was Holness who had discovered the stowaway Blackborow hiding in n their return from Sir the Antarctic Challenge, Kim Heacox a gear locker. Between these events, Ernest Shackleton’s quotes Alexander Macklin (surgeon as revealed in South, Shackleton’s O abortive attempt on Endurance) in 1919: account of the ITAE, Holness fell into to cross the Antarctic continent, the ocean through a crack that had the Imperial Trans-Antarctic I was disheartened to learn appeared beneath his tent. Holness Expedition (ITAE) 1914–1916, that McNish, Vincent, Holness was somewhat incapacitated, being all but four of the 28 members of and Stephenson had been denied inside a reindeer sleeping bag. the expedition, were awarded the the Polar Medal. . . . Of all the Shackleton pulled him back aboard Polar Medal, despite never having men in the party, no-one more the ice floe on which they were set foot on the continent. Shackleton deserved recognition than the camping, and very soon afterwards achieved this by enlisting the old carpenter. . . . I think too, the crack closed up. Shackleton did support of fellow masons within that with-holding the medal not receive profuse thanks for saving the Admiralty and through royal from the three trawlermen was the young man’s life: all he recalled influence.1 It is noted in Admiralty a bit hard. They were perhaps was hearing Holness complain that minutes that the king had not been not very endearing characters, he had lost his tin of bacci (tobacco). prepared to sanction the award but they never let the expedition On his return to England of the Polar Medal to Bruce and down (p.202). Holness married and set up members of the Scottish National home at 14 Flinton Street, Hull. Antarctic Expedition 1902–1904, The general view of most He had two daughters and a son. even though, unlike the ITAE, commentators is that Shackleton He resumed working in the fishing the Scottish expedition produced regarded the Polar Medal as an trade for Pickering and Haldine’s considerable scientific results. award for exceptional service; the Steam Trawling Co. Ltd. He was The motivation that has driven the four “Bad Lads” did not come up a member of the crew of their research on which this article is based to his standards. I question this view. newly acquired trawler Lord is a desire to understand Shackleton’s So, who were these “Bad Lads”? Lonsdale, launched in July 1923 at actions in not recommending four of Cochran and Sons of Selby, and on his party for the medal. What crimes Albert Ernest Holness 20 September 1924 at the age of 31 did those four men commit during Born in Hull, Yorkshire on he was lost overboard in a storm the course of the ITAE to be treated 7 December 1892, Holness when the Lord Lonsdale was off the in what appears to be a shabby and was just 21 years old when he signed Faroe Islands, 25 years after a similar mean-spirited way? In Shackleton: on as fireman of the ITAE’s steam fate had befallen his grandfather.

1 See ADM 1/8495/178. 2 The stowaway Perce Blackborow was 16 months younger than Holness. Advertisment above: Men Wanted. Drawing by Myra Walton.

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William Henry The master of the Orwell was became a virtual invalid during Stephenson thought to have been Captain those 16 days, having started as Born 19 April 1889 in Ingvar Thom, who had skippered one of the strongest members of Sculcoates, Hull, Stephenson was an the Southern Seas on Shackleton’s the expedition. Vincent’s health at ex-Royal Marine from the Chatham first unsuccessful attempt to rescue the start of the James Caird voyage division, and an officer’s servant for the 22 men on Elephant Island. is noted in the 1948 publication a time. His role on Endurance was John William “Jack” Vincent Shackleton’s Argonauts by Frank that of fireman. He was 25 when in was born at Marlcliff, Birmingham Hurley, in the following diary entry July 1914 he signed the Articles of in 1879. He ran away to sea at the for 24 April 1916: Agreement in London’s West India age of 14. He made several voyages Dock. Stephenson had been recruited in square riggers. The 1901 Census Our leader had departed from within the ranks of the North of England shows that on Sunday taking with him the pick of the Sea fishermen, and had been 31 March 1901 Jack was aged 22 seamen [Vincent, McNish and working out of the ports of Grimsby, and stationed at HMS Cambridge, McCarthy]. Of our party, one is Hull and Bridlington. It is recorded a Royal Marine training establishment a helpless cripple, a dozen were in the Harry McNish journal that at Devonport. Jack was serving as a more or less disabled with frost Stephenson was badly bitten by a private in the Royal Marines. At the bite, and some for the moment, penguin on 21 July 1915. Stephenson age of 35 Vincent joined the crew of crazed by their privations was one of the men who slept on the SY Endurance as boatswain, having (p.115). thwarts of the upturned Stancomb been recruited from the North Sea Wills and Dudley Docker whilst on fishing fleet working out of Hull Vincent returned to England Elephant Island. The hair from his and Grimsby. Vincent fell out of aboard the Norwegian whale oil moulting reindeer sleeping bag was favour with Shackleton following an transport ship Orwell. During the of constant annoyance to Thomas acrimonious altercation with former First World War Vincent’s ship was Orde-Lees, who snored on the floor Royal Marine Officer Thomas Orde- torpedoed in the Mediterranean, immediately below him. Following Lees (probably the most unpopular whilst he was on active duty for the the rescue by the Chilean tug Yelcho, member of the ITAE.) British Foreign Office. During 1919 Stephenson went to Buenos Aires, There was mention of alleged Vincent was living in Cleethorpes and he shipped out of that port as bullying by Vincent of his fellow (the town of this writer’s birth) a DBS (Distressed British Seaman) fo’castle hands in South, but that and working as second hand/chief on the vessel Highland Laddie, accusation does not appear in other mate of a shore establishment that which sailed on 10 October 1916. accounts. It is believed that Vincent trained fishermen to crew armed His being declared a DBS relieved tore off part of his top lip when it trawlers. After the war he returned Shackleton of having to pay his fare became frozen to a tin drinking to the fishing trade, working out back to England. After a long wait, mug, shortly after the James Caird of Grimsby, Fleetwood and Hull. Stephenson eventually received part left Elephant Island. Being unable to He worked for a while as pilot and of the wages he had earned during eat and experiencing great difficulty fishing instructor for the Finnish his time on Endurance. Stephenson in partaking of hot soups and cocoa, Government. Married and settled died from cancer in a hospital in which sustained the other member in Grimsby, he had nine children: Hull in 1953 at the age of 64. of the James Caird crew, Vincent’s five sons and four daughters strength faded away. It appeared no (he certainly deserved a medal for John William Vincent one recorded or noticed the injury. that!). He was the subject of a Board Vincent lost his top lip and Worsley does record that Vincent of Trade enquiry over the loss of a his health, but he did not had trouble with his legs and feet, Grimsby Trawler MacLeay in the receive a Polar Medal. During his and that Shackleton administered Icelandic fjords in 1935, and his repatriation from South Georgia witch-hazel. Both Vincent and Skipper’s Ticket No. 13338 was Jack Vincent’s shipmates aboard McNish fell into the surf during suspended for two years. During the the Orwell were Harry McNish the launch of the un-ballasted James Second World War he served with and Tim McCarthy, ex-crew of Caird prior to their 16-day epic the Royal Naval Reserve as captain Endurance and James Caird. journey to South Georgia. Vincent of HM Alfredian. Built in 1913 by

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 27 HISTORY

Cochrane and Sons of Selby and the border of the photograph there time of economic and political originally named Waldorf, she was are the signatures of each person, unrest in Scotland. At the age of 51 requisitioned for war service in 1939 and the name is clearly visible as McNish packed his sea chest and and converted to an armed patrol “H. Macnish”. Discussions with his shipped out on the New Zealand vessel. She undertook several Arctic relatives have led me to believe that Shipping Company vessel Ruapehu, convoy runs. Harry adopted that particular way a steamer of 7,705 tons. He worked Vincent died at the Grimsby of spelling his name because it was his passage one way to Wellington, Hospital on 19 January 1941. James more easily understood by English having been promised employment Dale, a Grimsby historian described folk. His Scotland-based family on the waterfront in that city. “Sailor Jack” as a big burly man, remain “McNish” and his England- In 1928, according to the physically hard and strong, with domiciled relations have adopted electoral roll (Wellington), Harry enormous hands. The name of “Macnish”. The spelling on the May McNish lived at 42 Owens Street. Vincent lives on in Grimsby. His 1959 New Zealand Antarctic Society At some stage during that or the next son Sid operated a successful ships’ headstone in the Karori cemetery year McNish suffered an accident chandlers business on the North remains “McNeish”. and became destitute. Fellow Wall of the Grimsby fish docks.3 For his full 22 months as the waterside workers in Wellington, Jack Vincent was not awarded a ITAE chippy, McNish did all that many of whom were aware of his Polar Medal, but, in 1958, long after was asked of him. He made a major past; found him shelter at the Ohiro his death, a small island within King contribution to the expedition. Retirement Hostel. Harry McNish Haakon Sound, South Georgia, was Shackleton was able to boast died in Wellington Hospital on named Vincent Island in his honour. that he never lost a man, but I 24 September 1930. He was just believe that without his carpenter’s 56 years old. Henry McNish determination, skill and dedication, The death certificate records: Born at Port Glasgow on 11 Shackleton himself might not have “Henry McNeish, Carpenter September 1874, McNish survived to make that boast. (returned soldier)? Sex: male. Cause died in Wellington, New Zealand Harry McNish was a time- of death: Chronic Myocarditis. on 24 September 1930, aged 56. served shipwright. He worked in Bedsores.” McNish was given a His father was a boot-maker in the shipyards of the Clyde and on ceremonial funeral complete with Glasgow. A photograph of the square-rigged sailing ships prior to gun carriage and naval escort. shop in Lyons Lane, Glasgow, the Endurance expedition, and on During 1958, an island within King has the legend “John McNish steam ships during and after the Haakon Sound, South Georgia, Boot Maker” displayed above the First World War. He was married was named McNish Island in window. “Harry” McNish was the three times; two of his wives honour of this master craftsman ship’s carpenter aboard Endurance. died and his third divorced him. and fine seaman. On 27 June 2004 He was a master craftsman, but he He had one son and one daughter. a bronze sculpture of the ship’s cat, was also sufficiently experienced In his journal, held at the Alexander “Mrs. Chippy”, was unveiled on the and confident to express opinions Turnbull Library (Wellington), grave of Harry McNish at Karori that were not always well received.4 McNish refers to his “big love”, cemetery by Baden Norris, emeritus McNish was, in a word, “difficult”. Agnes Martindale, and his “little curator of Antarctic History at the Even McNish’s name caused love”, Agnes’s four-year-old Canterbury Museum (a project of problems. For some unknown daughter Nancy, who appears in the New Zealand Antarctic Society). reason, the spelling “McNeish” the journal as “Tips”. After leaving is used throughout South. Other Buenos Aires en route to Antarctica Ernest Henry Shackleton writers have followed suit. in 1914, McNish christened the Shackleton was born on 15 The November 1998 edition of the pram dingy Nancy Endurance, February 1874 in Kildare, magazine National Geographic in honour of his partner’s daughter. Ireland, and died on board Quest (Vol. 194, No. 5) contains a group Between 1923 and 1925 McNish whilst at anchor off Grytviken, photograph of the participants of lived with his son Henry and his South Georgia, on 5 January the Endurance expedition. Around family in Glasgow. 1925 was a 1922. Anglo-Irish, resolute, strong- 3 As a young lad I collected my first “donkey’s breakfast” (straw-filled bunk mattress) from Sid Vincent’s store prior to shipping out to northern waters on the Ross Jackal (circa 1959). Whilst researching this article I was astonished to discover that one of my relatives is living in the house that Jack Vincent occupied in 1919. 4 See “Harry McNish: An Insight into Shackleton’s Carpenter”, Antarctic Vol. 21, Nos 3 & 4 (pp.60–62).

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jawed, barrel-chested and fired agreements, not only during, Shackleton suffered when with by patriotic fervour, he embodied and immediately after, the ITAE Scott in 1902. the Indian summer of empire. but also earlier, following the Scott seemed to think that He was a wonderful leader; however, Nimrod expedition of 1907–1909. Shackleton had let down the he was also an ambitious showman Later, when Shackleton’s son was Discovery expedition by his and glory-seeker, brilliant at self- attending Harrow and his daughter illness. One would have thought promotion and a tireless worker was attending Roedean, Shackleton’s that Shackleton, having himself for his own causes, which he often esteemed photographer Frank been treated in that shabby way, pursued under the guise of serving Hurley was still chasing Shackleton would have felt some degree of king and country. Furthermore, around the drinking clubs of compassion for his ex-boatswain despite his deserved heroic image, London, attempting to secure and his collapse during the James he was a dreadful businessman and monies owed. Caird voyage. Vincent’s comments an allegedly unfaithful husband, Probably the most despicable to the press when he stepped ashore and he demonstrated a myopic financial action of Shackleton from the Orwell in Liverpool on view on loyalty. Shackleton was was made on 31 May 1916 when 2 August 1916 might have irritated unforgiving if people managed Shackleton stopped payment of Shackleton. When asked about to get on the wrong side of him. all crew wages as of 17 October his leader, Vincent was quoted on To question his decisions resulted 1915. This latter date was in fact 4 August 1916 in The Daily in his view that the questioner ten days before Endurance had Dispatch newspaper saying, was being disloyal. He demanded been abandoned. Pay instructions “He was a Toff deserving of all the loyalty and optimism. His money were sent two months before the credit he gets.” management skills (or lack thereof) fate of the castaways on Elephant Had Shackleton treated his verged on the criminal. He almost Island was known. One feels a “Bad Lads” in an even-handed and always lived beyond his means sense of compassion for Shackleton: magnanimous way, history would and there are several instances of his ship had been crushed and had have been kinder to him. Sadly, we “questionable” financial dealings sunk and he was well aware that are left with this rather “bully boy” with expedition monies being the expedition funds were slipping image of Shackleton, famous polar siphoned off for purposes not away. Even while on the ice with explorer with friends in high places, connected to the expedition, from the sinking Endurance, he was faced including the king. He could treat all of which Shackleton escaped with blunt discussions about pay lesser mortals just as he saw fit and, untouched, but tainted. and conditions from a dour Scottish in this instance, he chose a vindictive Unsophisticated seafarers carpenter (McNish) and three North and mean-spirited way of expressing “signed on” to serve on the Country trawlermen who were his feelings for what he perceived as expedition steam yacht Endurance. probably accustomed to being lied to their lack of loyalty. This “signing on” was just the same and cheated by unscrupulous trawler My sincere thanks to John F. Mann as a modern employment contract. owners. History does not record how for support and research advice. The sailor agrees to obey the lawful the families of all Shackleton’s sailors command of the master, and the felt when, in the middle of a world master agrees to pay a fixed monthly war, their “allotments” ceased. salary (usually with an “allotment”, Shackleton had been suffering being an amount sent to the wife or from a bout of lumbago and he mother of the sailor) plus whatever had a cold (most unusual in the bonus payments are agreed on. deep south) at the time of the Shackleton’s sailors expected to McNish insubordination incident receive a bonus payment of ten 26 December 1915. Was this the shillings for each month spent south cause of the diary entry, “I shall of 60 degrees south. never forget him in this time of strain Sadly, Shackleton was unable and stress”? One suspects that there The Polar Medal with "Antarctic 1914–16" bar. to fulfil many of his contractual was a return of the heart problems Awarded in silver or bronze.

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 29 VOLUNTEERS

From Gateway City to Volunteer Duty at Scott Base

By Grant Hunter

Antarctica New Zealand and the New Zealand Antarctic Society supported volunteers Grant Hunter and Don Taylor while they assisted staff at Scott Base in December and January 2015–2016. Grant offers his impressions of life at the base.

We also needed to earn this badge of proficiency before we could enjoy ourselves, recreationally, beyond the confines of Base. Like all good campers we picked a safe and comfy spot with the best outlook on the lot, unwrapped the tent, then laid out the canvas and hardware. We helped each other erect individual polar tents – actually each was big enough to accommodate two, but practice is always good – holding our peaked houses down with a ring of giant pegs, buried dead-men (snow-filled his was not glamping, Don and I were sharing the nylon sacs), and snow shovelled nor did the site meet privilege of a month at Scott Base on the tent apron. After licking a Tfamily-friendly camping as volunteer workers through a finger to test for wind direction, criteria in the usual sense. Yet it collaboration between Antarctica we excavated a sheltered kitchen pit was not really in the lightweight New Zealand and the New Zealand and dining room, then stacked up tramping mould either. Field trainer/ Antarctic Society. For December– most of the blocks of snow we had guide Richie Hunter and I agreed January we would be handy-people, sawn out to form a sheltering wall, a suitable marker was “industrial doing the sorts of tasks around the and finally fashioned the remainder camping”. Earlier in the day we base that staff lacked the time to do. into a workbench and seats. had drawn our gear – of the most We would become integrated into the The second dimension of our robust quality – from the enterprise’s small but diverse and self-sufficient field training was drumming into us well-stocked racks, and the whole business and social community. the ethic of causing no environmental deal was permeated by a “health This community supports an harm. This led to minimalistic and safety in employment” ethic – internationally sourced suite of catering conventions that did remind or, rather, it was driven by it. research projects investigating me of that tramping trip – firing Wellington architect Don Taylor natural features and processes in up the liquid fuel stove, pouring and I were on an overnight Antarctica and how the polar region boiling water into the dehy meal induction in field safety on contributes to the functioning of sachet, rehydrating for ten minutes, the Ross Ice Shelf, Antarctica. Planet Earth. and eating. We’d minimise utensils, The 30 minute Hägglund drive But first we had to learn to and lick and wipe any residue, beyond and out of sight of Scott Base look after ourselves in the event as dirty washing water must be was just far enough to instil a sense that some adverse incident played accounted for back at Base. Hardest of aloneness. out in this extreme environment. of all was remembering not to flick

Photo above: Volunteers Don Taylor (L) and Grant Hunter (R) inside Captain Scott’s hut at Cape Evans. Photo: Richie Hunter.

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the final dregs from a coffee mug, stored food for use-by date, loading searches were undertaken. Apart or the tea bag, onto the snow. old stock for disposal to New from emergency services based at We had to pee only into a plastic Zealand, and rearranging remaining McMurdo station nearby, there bottle of course. stocks to make way for the annual is no outside help to be called on, Ironically, it doesn’t snow very restocking when the supply ship and everyone has a role. often in this polar desert, where arrived later in the month. Our first Sunday outing (Base the annual rainfall equivalent is Of course the main function staff work a six-day week), in the under half that of Cheviot, North of Scott Base is to support science. company of Scott Base storekeeper Canterbury in a fierce drought year. We struck a quiet time in the summer, Chelsea Lodge, chef Keith Garrett Mostly the “new snow” is existing with early-season, mainly sea-ice and guide Richie, was a 30 kilometre wind-blown stuff redistributing itself based projects having returned Hägglund journey across the sea ice around the landscape. If you’re tall home. The later-season projects to Captain Scott’s Terra Nova Hut you can be in the blue, head-above were starting to fire up in early at Cape Evans. Lucky last: coring a ground-level snow storm. And so January as we readied to depart. the thickness of ice at the tide after a clear but windy night our Arriving teams spent their first days crack showed we were still good to first job was clearing drifted snow on refresher field training and in the jump ashore, but ours was the very from the cooker and digging out our Hillary Field Centre labs assembling last “terrestrial” vehicle to reach kitchen pit. We appreciated how the and going over field gear and science Cape Evans that summer season, bone-dry snow behaved itself well on equipment. We left them awaiting as cracks were opening up and pools the shovel. weather clearances so they might be of water forming in the warming ice. Back at Base we were now fit for ferried into field camps in places such Much has been written about this work. In recent years the volunteers as the Dry Valleys. heritage site – let me just add how like us had been deployed preparing Several routines through the overwhelming it was for me to and repainting exterior joinery and month underlined how safety must walk through this hut, no less so for window frames, but that job is always be at the surface down south. being guided by a great-grandson completed for now and looking Infallibly, the 8am daily work-group of one of Scott’s Terra Nova seamen good. Our main task was sorting meeting kicked off with a round of of 1910–13. and rearranging storage areas in “safety shares”. These often sharp- The strong outdoor ethic the “old hangar” and a suite of witted exchanges – the Scott Base permeating Scott Base extends into containers. With restocking and workplace is not short of wags – recreation. Not only do most staff waste removal confined to a single keep safety awareness simmering avail themselves of the opportunities, annual ship visit to McMurdo, it is while flushing out any specific or they are actively encouraged to do a challenging task to keep Scott Base immediate risks. so. It’s a way to take time out from adequately supplied with materials Another was fire/emergency drill. a close, 24/7 community, as well as a yet not overrun with discarded items. This was no simple city-style routine means to keep fit. The system is Part of this is judging the extent to of file-out on hearing the siren, await enabling, as Richie explained: “We’ll which unused or old items should be emergency services arrival, and then give you the tools and training to stored for future contingencies versus file back when the floor-warden enjoy the area safely, and you’ll take shipping them back home as “retro”. says “All clear.” In our accident responsibility for your own safety.” Similar principles apply to food, scenario, volunteer stretcher bearers Flags mark several safe routes and our final task was working with were enlisted and mobilised, as was for walking, mountain-biking and Base chef Keith Garrett, vetting all the duty fire crew, and casualty cross-country skiing. The necessary

Base manager Mac McColl points out features at Wooden sledges racked above the sea ice at the Scott Base’s Secret Santa works with flair, Hut Point to Don Taylor. Photo: Grant Hunter. Base are both heritage items and functional ones. skill and love. Photo: Grant Hunter. Photo: Grant Hunter. Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 31 VOLUNTEERS

hardware such as bikes and skis can chill temperature about -14oC, but and my chocolates and socks fell be borrowed. Some people bring the good news for runners there is short of the standard. Thoughtful south with them more-specialist toys, that they may shift between the half, creativity abounded around the such as ski kites. Pint-sized Scott full and ultra distances mid-race, dining room. I saw a mini Hägglund Base Ski Club, recently subtitled depending on the conditions and machined from solid steel, satchels “Castle Rock Snow Park,” has how they are coping with them. and shoulder bags fashioned from scarcely missed a summer’s beat since The numbers switching, scaling discarded tent canvas and packing opening in the 1960s. distance both up and down, strops, original art work, decorated Over the Christmas break we sharpened our attention on keeping route flags, clocks and frames made scrambled up a fixed rope to the track of everyone. from found wood offcuts, and summit of Castle Rock, a skyline From Scott Base one can become knitted hats with Antarctic themes. outcrop occupying a similar overlook steeped in the polar history around Skirt Night caught me out position to that of Castle Rock on – or, by arrangement, within – the too. Assuming it was about Christchurch’s Port Hills. As with its heritage huts and memorials from improvisation, I fashioned a dress city namesake, you access the rock the Heroic Era. One need not travel from a length of sacking purged from using “local transport” – on foot, far, and several evenings I curled up the hangar, an unstylish “Hangin’ bike, ski or Hägglund. in the window bay of the reading in the hangar” creation. Not so, Most evenings, individuals and room gazing across the intervening this dress-up session: building on small groups were communing with 50 metres to the unimposing but tradition set during the Heroic Era Weddell seals along flagged routes immensely historical hut of the it has developed to a fine art. Even through the ice pressure ridges out Trans-Antarctic Expedition (TAE), though the basics of most outfits beyond the land transition. I have a the first building at Scott Base. I felt were drawn from a dress-up box great many images of yawning seals. a craggy Sir Ed might have burst on base, some contenders for “Miss Boundaries for recreation are through the door at any moment. Ross Island” had mastered the total set by first completing the overnight Base manager Mac McColl was presentation, with amazing fit-outs field training plus any inductions generous to Don and me with his matched by moves along the catwalk. associated with gear, such as bikes time in opening up the TAE Hut Ladies on base retorted with a very and vehicles, and demonstrating and Captain Scott’s Discovery fine “Scott Babes” Calendar 2016. the know-how to match clothing Hut (1902) at Hut Point just beyond And here’s a spiritual thing . . . and other kit to the conditions McMurdo Station, and in sharing Don and I joined a small group of (being issued with, for example, his knowledge of these gems. like-mindeds in McMurdo Station’s six different sorts of gloves means But the fleet of hickory Nansen “Lady of the Snows Chapel”, the latter is not so trivial.) You must sledges, racked up overlooking the led by a team of volunteer American log every excursion in the comms. drop-off where land meets the sea yoga tutors in practising 108 sun room, and book out a radio. ice, stole the show for me because salutations. Our setting of summer Though rugby is now off the list – they are still used. Standing behind solstice at a southern-most habitation too many downsides to getting hurt them, looking out onto the ice shelf, on the globe would be hard to better. – the Americans at McMurdo organise brought an emotional tear to my The flight home from Antarctica a range of events. The punishingly eye (or was it the wind?). Still the by Hercules is renowned as eight steep annual Observation Hill1 sled of choice for towing behind hours of deafening tedium. Not quite run-up attracted 31 runners this year. motorised skidoos, these are some so for me. Just off Oamaru the load Eight Kiwis covered first, second and of few surviving functional bridges master invited two Kiwis on board third. I was 25th – first and last in my back to the pioneering traditions for up to a front window, as our flight age category! More meritoriously, Kiwis in Antarctica. path to Harewood tracked dead I time-kept for the marathon, one of But it’s not all outdoorsy stuff at centre up Akaroa Harbour, elevation few all-ice runs in the world. All-up Scott Base, and, after all, we were 4,000 feet, over the northern bays and we had 30 participants across the on station to celebrate Christmas. Sumner to land. An exquisite sense full- and half-marathon, no-one Secret Santa’s gifts reached way of Gateway on their part, I’d say. this year availing themselves of the beyond chain store offerings – except I gratefully thank Antarctica New also-offered ultra-marathon. It was for mine. Even being forewarned, Zealand and New Zealand Antarctic an average-weather day, with wind I failed to ask the deeper questions Society for this opportunity.

1 The 230 metre-high Observation Hill is a volcanic eminence overlooking the Ross Ice Shelf and McMurdo Sound. It was from here Captain Scott’s party kept a lookout for his return from the South Pole in 1912.

32 Issue 237 HERITAGE How You Can Help Us Save Sir Ed’s Antarctic Legacy "The more we walked around Pram Point the more my interest and enthusiasm grew. It was a very pleasant spot and the views were magnificent . . . Bob Miller, too, was impressed with its potentialities, so without more ado I decided that this was the site for Scott Base – making only one reservation, that first of all we would have to prove the route from the ship to the site with a Ferguson tractor."

In March last year at Parliament, conserve and maintain Sir Ed’s the New Zealand Prime Minister Antarctic legacy. The target is $1 launched the Trust’s comprehensive million and we are well along conservation plan to safeguard the way. the building and its artefact In honour of the plucky Fergie collection. This was a unique tractor, the Trust’s Expedition opportunity for those closely South sees two vintage Ferguson connected to the Commonwealth TE20s and a modern “Antarctica2” Trans-Antarctic Expedition (TAE) Massey Ferguson tractor travel and the International Geophysical through New Zealand in August and ith these words, Year (IGY) of 1957–1958 to come September 2016 visiting schools Sir Ed recalled his together and reminisce. and communities, on a journey W decision in January The Trust is now seeking raising funds to help save Hillary's 1957 on the location for New funding support to implement the TAE/IGY Hut and raising awareness Zealand’s Scott Base. To consider conservation plan. There is much to of New Zealand’s Antarctic history. that the location rested on a plucky be done. The intentions of a major You can find out how to see the little Fergie tractor making it safely work programme for this summer tractors in your town, learn more from the Endeavour to Pram Point are to remove the asbestos building about the legacy, and donate to the gives pause for thought. lining, to consolidate and overpaint cause at www.expeditionsouth.nz. This summer will mark the 60th the lead paint, to weatherproof the What could be more fitting anniversary of the establishment building, including the leaky roof, than donating a fiver (or two)? of Scott Base and, with it, of New to repair the Marcus King paintings The banknote has Sir Ed’s iconic Zealand’s continuous presence at damaged by water leaks, and to image on it and, at least on Pram Point in Antarctica: a just document and conserve the collection the older fivers, tucked away in the cause for celebration. of 350 artefacts. All this is planned corner discreetly is the image The first building constructed to be completed in time for the of the tracked Fergie tractor by the team in 1957 was “A Hut”, 60th anniversary on 20 January 2017. that found its way to the South comprising the mess, kitchen, Just like Sir Ed and his team Pole after safely establishing radio room, Hillary’s office, all those years ago, the Trust is the viability of New Zealand’s and bunkroom. It still stands. asking the New Zealand public Scott Base. New Zealand’s very first building in to get behind an Antarctic cause. Please consider supporting the Antarctica is now under the care of Now, we are asking for help with cause and give a fiver to the driver. Antarctic Heritage Trust. funding the ongoing efforts to

Photo above: Sir Ed on Ferguson tractor, Antarctica 1958. © Antarctica New Zealand. Background photo: TAE/IGY A Hut 2014. © Antarctic Heritage Trust.

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 33 HISTORY

days later, on 8 January 1960, the Endeavour berthed in the sea-ice channel that the USS Glacier was steadily cutting towards the McMurdo base. Unlike the base today, McMurdo then had no port, and cargo handling was basic. The Endeavour, moored to the sea-ice, used cargo nets, slings, and the ship’s derricks to unload its cargo. The ship’s crew loaded the nets by hand and Scott Base staff First at Arrival Heights emptied and stacked the cargo onto the waiting sledges. The loaded By Don Webster sledges were then pulled by tractors across 13 kilometres of sea-ice to lthough the Antarctic five kilometres north of Scott Scott Base. Except for the tractors, Specially Protected Area Base, fitted these requirements. nothing in this process had changed A (ASPA) 122 at Arrival Who selected the site I am since Scott’s time. Heights near New Zealand’s Scott unsure, but Bob Unwin, in New That summer, Scott Base had a Base came into existence in 1975, Zealand, was the motivation Snowcat, a Land Rover, one Weasel, the site had been first used for for the radar and Brian Sanford four Ferguson tractors, some year-round research some 15 years was the man on the ground in sledges, and a wheeled trailer – but earlier. In the summer of 1959–60 the Antarctic. no bulldozer or lifting machinery. the Department of Scientific and This first research station We found that two people could Industrial Research (DSIR) built consisted of two north-facing lift the prefabricated panels for the an auroral radar station on the aerials, each with a set of four radar hut, the aerial sections, and Heights, and I was part of that 16 x 1.2m mesh reflectors supported the hardwood posts. A little thought construction team. on large hardwood posts, and a 5 x and a few more hands usually Stanford University supplied the 2.5m radar hut. Testing the aerials solved any problems with the larger radar, Dominion Physical Laboratory took place on the grass behind DPL’s cargo items. However, we gladly (DPL) designed the aerials, while laboratories at Gracefield. Four posts accepted help from the Americans DSIR installed and ran the station. were dug into the soft earth, and a at McMurdo to move three power The station was designed to record reflector was assembled on the level transformers and the drums of high- the “radio aurora” at ranges out ground and lifted into place by voltage cable. to 1,200 kilometres north of Ross twelve staff. Three folded dipoles Before we arrived, Brian Island, and to be complementary were added, and an aerial was tested. Sandford had surveyed Arrival to the south-facing radar on Bluff Meanwhile, building of the Frank Heights, marking the locations for Hill, Southland. Both installations Ponder-designed hut was underway the aerials and hut, and he had were part of a 5,200-kilometre chain in a carpentry shop at Petone. selected the route to the station of magnetic, optical, and upper After the testing, the taking-apart and had the last short rocky section atmosphere observatories: a chain started, and, finally, everything was graded – a feature still visible on traversing the Southern Auroral packaged into manageable-sized lots Google Earth 55 years later. After Zone, from the South Pole to Ross for shipment to McMurdo Sound. we arrived at Scott Base, Brian Island, Cape Hallett, Campbell On 27 December 1959, a small briefed us on the site and the Island, Invercargill, Christchurch, wooden ship with sails, the HMNZS access, and he introduced us to the and Wellington. Endeavour, left Wellington, taking Americans who would be supplying The radar needed to face the 1960 Scott Base wintering- the electricity to the radar. Then north with a view across the water over scientific party and a 15-ton we went up to Arrival Heights by (or sea ice). Arrival Heights, just “flat-pack” auroral radar. Twelve Weasel, a vehicle we would use

Photo above: The completed hut. The hut complete with tie-downs, vents, aerial feeder lines at the right end, and high-voltage power cable fixed along the foundation timber. Note the small windows (standard Scott Base-issue) and the colour (no RBT green here). Photo: Don Webster.

34 Issue 237 HISTORYTRIBUTE

for our winter transport. Later we assembly and tuning the aerials. in just three days. The aerials took learnt about the Ferguson tractor, Although there had been mention much longer, with the final 300-ohm the Scott Base workhorse, and the of wearing gloves, there had been feeder lines connected back to the summer transport. However, he left no discussions about permafrost hut in late February. Although the to last the pneumatic drill and the or pneumatic drills. Erecting the summer construction party left oil-vane compressor – an attachment aerials down south was nothing for New Zealand on 6 February, to the Ferguson’s three-point-linkage like the trial on the back lawn in Spr. N. E. Bristow, Sgt. P. Crowther, and driven from the power take-off. New Zealand. Instead of soft soil, and Felix Todd stayed on to complete We had seen pneumatic drills at we had permafrost; instead of shovels the laying of the power cable from roadworks and building sites, but we used saws; the level lawn was a McMurdo. Felix managed to put as science technicians we had never sloping, undulating rocky surface, back into service one of the two used them. However, we became while the workforce of 12 became abandoned Bren gun carriers and quick learners, and after drilling 70 just two: Jack Taylor and I. used it in the cable laying. Finally, holes in the permafrost we would All 15 tons of equipment was by the end of February, the power think of ourselves as “experts”. transported the five kilometres from was on, and early March saw the This drill became a large part of Scott Base to Arrival Heights over radar fired up and testing under way. our lives until, in the following several days by Ferguson tractor In 1963, I again wintered-over March while drilling the last and sledge. I took the last trailer- and I renewed my association with hole the compressor finally died, load of hut panels and arrived as the radar and Arrival Heights. Later, haemorrhaging oil. Randal Heke and two of the Scott after the radar closure, the hut was Before we left New Zealand, Base’s summer construction staff taken apart and put in storage there had been little discussion were having lunch on the newly at Scott Base. Finally, in 1969, about how to erect the aerials in the laid foundation grid. With the the hut became part of the new Antarctic. Most of the work carried help of two Scott Base science base at Lake Vanda. out at DPL involved checking the technicians, the hut was complete

Photos above, clockwise from top left: Fine-weather drilling. Don Webster drilling a hut tie-down anchor during one of the many fine days; Completed hut and aerials. Looking across the completed radar hut and aerials to the cloud-covered Royal Society Range; Drilling in bad weather. Some days the weather was bad. Here the driller is using the Weasel as windbreak while the other two are ready with the hut tie-down cable; Smoko on the foundations. The first day. The hut’s foundation grid is in place, and it is lunchtime, with a view across McMurdo Sound to the Royal Society Range on mainland Antarctica. All photos: Don Webster.

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 35 BRANCH NEWS

Adélie penguins spend their breeding season. The conservators and their support team have had to find ways to both meet the regulations to protect and not disturb the wildlife and to complete their tasks of conservation, and the penguins have caused some delays to the work to be done at the hut and the surroundings. Interesting footage, taken by a Norwegian film crew, was shown during the midwinter Conservation dinner and illustrated the difficulties the conservation team had to face Trophy 2016 in their last season, and gave an Wellington insight into the significance of that By Ursula Rack particular project. Branch – 2016 Lizzie is one of the contributors izzie Meek from the to conserving the first physical Midwinter Antarctic Heritage Trust signs of human presence in the L is this year’s recipient Antarctic. The early huts and sites Event of the Society’s Conservation are an important part of the history Trophy. It is an award to “any of exploration and science on this By Jane Chewings person or organisation contributing continent, and at the same time significantly to any aspect of raise awareness of Antarctica’s he Wellington Branch’s Antarctic or Sub-Antarctic vulnerability in the global earth annual midwinter event conservation”. This contribution and climate system, and also of the T was held on the evening can be to the conservation of flora vulnerability of human life at this of Thursday 23 June at the Royal or fauna, or to the preservation particular place. Lizzie emphasised Society of New Zealand’s rooms in of buildings, sites, or artefacts of in her acceptance speech that she Wellington. The event was warmly historical significance. is doing her bit as part of a large received by those in attendance. The Conservation Trophy was team, and she accepted the award Several dignitaries were able to attend, presented to Lizzie at the midwinter on behalf of her fellow conservators including the Chilean and Argentine dinner of the Canterbury Branch. and supporters. ambassadors, and representatives from Lizzie is a conservator of the The trophy itself is a miniature the embassies/consulates of Brazil, Cuba, historic huts in the Ross Sea Region, emperor penguin in African walnut. Denmark, Finland, France, Greece, with the Antarctic Heritage Trust It was carved by Patrick Malcahy, Russia, Switzerland, and the USA. (AHT). Her professionalism, and presented to the Society in 1971 The traditional call through to Scott dedication, and commitment to the by Peter Voyce. Mr Voyce’s concern Base was followed by the toasts, this conservation work under extreme for the future of Antarctica and year offered by Mariska Wouters, NZAS conditions are outstanding, and so it the importance of this place was the President (Loyal Toast to the Queen); was an easy decision to award Lizzie motivation to give this trophy to HE Isauro Torres, Chilean Ambassador the Conservation Trophy. the Society to award to individuals to New Zealand (Current Antarctic The AHT’s latest project is the and/or organisations for their effort Treaty Nations); Fred Davey, NZAS conservation of Borchgrevink’s Hut in conserving it. member (Present Parties); and Andy at Cape Adare, the first building in Waters, 2016 Scott Base Winter Leader Antarctica – constructed in 1899. (Past Parties). The conservation of this hut is Ambassador Torres mentioned that extremely difficult from a logistical the outcomes of the 2016 Antarctic point of view and because of Treaty Consultative Meeting, held the weather conditions. Another in Santiago, Chile, had proven the challenge is the environmental Photo above: Lizzie Meek, holding the Conservation Photo above: Tamsin Falconer and Graeme requirements, as this is a place where Trophy, with Ursula Rack. Photo: Wolfgang Rack. Claridge. Photo courtesy of Jud Fretter.

36 Issue 237 BRANCH NEWS

international will to continue to keep Peter Mulgrew, who 60 years Antarctica as a region preserved for ago was a vital member of the the peaceful pursuit of knowledge Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic and free of military or economic Expedition. She brought along his interests, as well as the desire to British Empire Medal for his naval increase international collaboration. service and Antarctic exploration He also acknowledged the role and also his Polar Medal. The Polar of the team at Scott Base in Medal had been very precious to upholding the tenets of the Treaty. him as a naval officer, as he had felt Andy Waters updated all present the connection with Captain Scott. about life on base this winter, at He had been awarded the medal by just 11 staff the smallest team for a the Admiral of the Navy on board number of years, but including four Nelson’s flagship HMSVictory . who have wintered-over multiple Thanks to the help of Simon times. The temperatures hadn’t been Trotter and other staff at Antarctica too bitter and work was progressing New Zealand, we were able to well. They had celebrated midwinter establish a video link with the a couple of nights prior on the winter-over team at Scott Base. solstice and had thoroughly enjoyed Auckland Seven members of the team sat in the gift of Finlandia vodka from on a question-and-answer session, the Honorary Consul-General of Branch with dinner guests coming forward Finland, Michael Scannell, who had to talk to the crew. Committee shipped it to them in advance. Midwinter Member Nichollette Brown was able Andy also discussed with Fred to re-acquaint herself with friends the successful pilot midwinter flight Celebration she had made while working at Scott by the US programme to McMurdo Base over the last summer. Station, the intention being to run By Roger McGarry Auckland committee member monthly flights in winter 2017. Cmdr Brett Fotheringham made an He commented that the proposed ith 2016 being such excellent job of the toasts, including regular flights would dramatically a notable year for the “Loyal Toast”, “Past Parties” change the winter-over experience W important Antarctic and “Treaty Nations”. In response, for both the United States and anniversaries, the Auckland Branch Scott Base Team Leader Andy New Zealand programmes, though Committee was extremely pleased Waters gave an excellent toast for the fresh vegetables were very with a turnout of nearly forty to “Current Parties”. With the 100-year welcome. Anthony Powell, also their midwinter Christmas dinner anniversary of the end of Imperial wintering-over, briefly spoke of at the Royal New Zealand Yacht Trans-Antarctic Expedition, 60 years his filmAntarctica: A Year on Ice Squadron, Westhaven Marina. since the start of the Commonwealth (www.frozensouth.com) and We were fortunate to have two Trans-Antarctic Expedition, other film work that he was excellent speakers on the evening, and the live link to the winter-over currently working on, including Ian Johnson and Robyn Mulgrew. team at Scott Base, the toasts were documenting winter life on base. Ian and his wife Yvonne made a very poignant. The event concluded with convivial special trip up from Tokoroa, and he A great night was had by all, conversation and consumption of spoke of the recent 50-year reunion with an excellent venue and great refreshments. of his winter-over team (1965–66) food. Several of those who attended and presented the committee with had spent time at Scott Base through a book of poems sent to them by summer and winter in the 1960s, students from a school in Kawerau so they enjoyed the opportunity to in 1965. catch up. We all look forward Robyn gave a moving talk to next year’s event when we hope to on the life of her father, the late once again have a mid-winter chat with Scott Base. Photo above: Robyn Mulgrew with her father’s British Empire Medal and Polar Medal. Photo courtesy of Roger McGarry.

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 37 BOOK EXCERPT

Travelling with the Huskies Through the Transantarctic Mountains

By Peter Otway

Dog sledging during the days of reconnaissance mapping in the late 1950s and early 1960s had its rewards. Although frustrating at times, the dogs were also extremely entertaining, as illustrated in this extract from It’s a Dog’s Life in Antarctica by Peter Otway published last year. (For more information about the book, please contact Peter at [email protected].)

Wednesday 18 January 1961 – At Station B, parade-ground-like orders and barks to everyone. 20 miles (32 kilometres) south of the mouth Poor old Fido, little does he know this is his last season of the Byrd Glacier; altitude 2,920ft (890m): as the Big Boss! nce again the bad weather has found us. Brae, to put it mildly, is pugnacious and clueless Don and I awoke to the sound of snow but fortunately has his redeeming features. His head, Opattering on the side of the tent, this time I am quite convinced, is a cross between that of a fox mingled with the sound of the southerly that was terrier and a sheep, and so is his mentality. If there’s back with us again. The temperature, which yesterday any chance of a fight, Brae will be into the middle of it. portended the departure of summer by sliding down He is so completely without fear or brain, when he gets -13oC, has now risen again to -9oC. For some time a beating from one of us he immediately blames the dog now I’ve been meaning to give a brief description of next to him at the time and flies at him. He apparently each member of our team – dogs, that is. Contrary to has no idea why he’s being punished. He spends much what may be popular opinion, they each have their of his time in “the cells” under our surveillance [tied up own character and could almost be likened to human behind the team, just in front of the bumper bar of the personalities. First, this is the layout of the team but the sledge]. Despite this he can pull exceptionally well and orderliness of the traces is rather hypothetical – normally often starts an excited yapping and straining ahead as they become plaited together. Fido, the lead dog, is out though he sees a vision beckoning him on. in front; Brae and Glenn, paired together, are next; then Glenn, a good trier but seems to get rather short of Peabrain and Lindsay; Rocket and Tepi; finally Blue breath. When Glenn decides it is time for a rest he turns and Bottle. right around and looks most pathetically at us. One after another, each head turns around until it seems the whole The dog characters: team is begging for mercy. And so a sit-down strike is Fido, our lead dog, can be likened to a Colonel who underway. He spends much of his time in the cells for should have been pensioned off years ago. The thought these acts of mutiny and forgets to look around at all – has never entered his head that he is another mere dog so do the others forget. I think he means well, though. – he imagines he’s one of us. He knows his commands Peabrain – fairly aptly named, although the name but cannot be hurried by anyone. He maintains great would suit Brae even better. His chief trouble is that he dignity as he ambles along out in front. If Fido is content suffers from hallucinations. The team, the whole world to stroll at about 1mph down a steep slope, the whole in fact, is against him. Often while sleeping on the span, team and sledge travel at 1mph. If Fido wishes to stop he will raise his head, eyes still closed, and issue a for any reason at all, the whole team grinds to a halt. warning growl to the invisible enemy. Presumably the If he imagines Brae is about to overtake him at such “enemy” must be either a bit deaf or thick-headed for times he asserts his worn-out authority, often with it ignores the warning and is savagely beaten up and, disastrous results for himself. In a desperate effort to I suspect, eaten. After this one-sided battle Peabrain save face and muster his remaining dignity he issues again settles down licking his chops hungrily and waiting

38 Issue 237 BOOK EXCERPT

for the next careless victim. On his trace, he has been Blue, despite his name has a fairly colourless known to work well but normally devotes his energy character and never has much to say except in an to appearing as though he’s working, though, in fact, occasional argument with his companion, Bottle. his trace is quite slack. For this he spends more He was bitten in the backside about a year ago by the time in the cells than all the other dogs put together. latter and, although the wound has never properly His attentions are devoted to Lindsay who, I regret to healed, I don’t think he bears Bottle the slightest malice. say, is somewhat unfaithful. He is probably the best worker of the whole team. Lindsay can be likened to a scatty teenage girl. She is Despite his quiet manner, however, he is difficult to catch quite a flirt with the boys, having upset most of them at once he gets off. Not until he has had what he considers some stage or another but has no permanent favourites. his hard-earned stroll around for several hours will he Overflowing with enthusiasm and energy, she works think of handing himself over. very well although regards everything as a big game, Bottle is one of the biggest and most powerful dogs not surprising considering her tender age of one year, and is also quite a character. While in the trace beside and is always overjoyed if any one of us should visit her. Blue he is very quiet and hard-working but, once on She is definitely one of the favourites in the team. the span at camp, he assumes a different nature. He has Rocket is like an overgrown rabbit. He has a no enemies but hunger and will do anything to defeat rabbit-like expression and bounces about in great it. Down slippers, cardboard boxes, cocoa in tins and leaps whenever we go to shift him from the span to the milk powder, even my Christmas cake still in its tin, trace, or vice versa. He, too, suffers from hallucinations are no trouble at all to this walking, yapping garbage although not to the extent of Peabrain. His main fault disposal unit. On one occasion, as the sledge was taking is that he can never bear the suspense while we load the off in the morning, Bottle started off with such a bound sledge in the morning. If he had his way he would live that he broke his trace. Discovering to his amazement up to his name and streak away leaving the others far and great delight that he was free, he turned back behind. During such times of uninhibited excitement and on his tracks to make a clean sweep of the campsite. impatience, the sight of either Don or me appearing with The golden opportunity to satisfy his insatiable hunger the rope brake to try a little persuasion in getting him to had arrived. Thinking he would soon follow, we carried lie down is enough to set him squealing in anticipated on for half a mile. Bottle was still busy. We called and sat pain. As a rule, the rope doesn’t even touch him and even down and waited. Still, he was systematically combing when it does I’m sure it doesn’t make much impression every square inch of ground like a big vacuum cleaner. on his thick hide. For all of this, he is a good worker Finally, in desperation, I ran back and collected him. and a very likeable character. The rubbish hole was barren – and Bottle was bulging Tepi is an extremely quiet chap and, I’m afraid, and looking very happy. His bliss was not to last for a little bit scruffy and non-photogenic in appearance. long. The sudden exertion on such a full stomach had He makes up for this by being very good natured with the most unhappy results. As we brought the team to a everyone and very obedient. Although apt to conserve halt for the first rest an hour later, Bottle dramatically strength when the going is easy, when there’s any real brought up everything he had so diligently scooped up work to be done he’ll put all he’s got into it. He is a solid – bacon rind, porridge, soup packets, plastic bags and worker and makes no fuss at all. all sorts of things completely unrecognisable and equally

Photo above: Don Goldschmidt in command and Fido leading. Photo courtesy of Peter Otway. Continued on next page »

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 39 HERITAGE

« Travelling with the Huskies Through the Transantarctic Mountains continued from previous page indigestible. Poor Bottle, he’s ended up hungrier than ever. some rather belligerent growls from one or two others, One might think he had learned his lesson but I have having been woken so rudely from a deep sleep – no doubt that he would repeat the performance given but at least it was a start. After again prompting them half a chance. with his half-bark, half-howl, rather like an old car Well, that’s the nine of them – all affectionate, having difficulty in starting, good old Rocket and Bottle faithful friends without whom our field trip would have rather sleepily took up the strain. One by one they all been an impossibility; without whom, also, we would joined in, propping themselves up into sitting positions, have less to talk about and amuse us. They are now all muzzles held high in the air letting out a series of tuning up for their evening howlo session, so I’ll just sit extremely tuneful “Ow-oooo”s. The overall effect is very back and enjoy the harmony! Although I’ve heard this musical and makes me regret the lack of a tape recorder. at least once every evening since I’ve been in the field, it There is never a single shirker; Bottle has a good tenor never ceases to amuse me. Tonight Fido took the lead – voice but Peabrain appears a little tone-deaf and Tepi after all, the lead dog has to maintain his authority even often plays his part lying down with eyes closed. After when there is no work to do. A few half-hearted howls about a minute of music the howlo suddenly ceases and, brought absolutely no response from his tribe and so, their duty done for the evening, the choir members settle feeling a little put out at this lack of support from his themselves comfortably back in the snow for the long younger officers, he picked up the span wire in his teeth sleep ahead. and shook it vigorously up and down. This resulted in

Hillary’s TAE/IGY Hut: Calling all stories

By Lizzie Meek

he Scott Base of today has been in continuous the hut will be a perfect backdrop for Antarctic artefacts use since 1957, and, as many will know, and the stories of New Zealanders on ice. The Antarctic T everything down there is either in use or has Heritage Trust has taken over long-term management kept a place on the shelf because it just might come in of conservation of the building and the collection, handy one day. Over the years, older items have tended in partnership with Antarctica New Zealand. to either wear out or be retro’d. Up until the point in If you have anything you think you might like to 1989 when Garth Varcoe organised the relocation of donate to Hillary’s TAE/IGY Hut, or would like more the TAE/IGY Hut “A” (now Hillary’s TAE/IGY Hut), information, please contact Lizzie Meek, Antarctic and it was re-purposed as a heritage space, the hut Heritage Trust’s Programme Manager – Artefacts: was in active use as a bunkroom, and there was only a [email protected] or +64 3 358 0212. small handful of TAE-era artefacts left. Over the years a number of other artefacts from the early days of the New Zealand Antarctic Programme have found their way back to the hut, and it is all those items, collectively, that give the building a sense of atmosphere and provide an understanding of early Kiwi Antarctic operations. We’re hoping that folks out there in the Antarctic community might have additional objects, photographs, or stories relating to the TAE era, or to the early years of the Antarctic programme (1956 through the 1980s), which they would be willing to donate to a permanent home in Hillary’s TAE/IGY Hut. Once conserved, Some of the artefacts in Hillary's TAE/IGY Hut. Photo courtesy of Antarctic Heritage Trust. 40 Issue 237 BOOK REVIEW

no reason why some ice maestro stations, support science and survey should be brought in from outside – in totally uncharted ice-filled waters the reasoning went that his expertise amidst often ferocious weather. was in the Antarctic, not the Arctic! Dramatic stories are featured, such So Captain Woodfield arrived as the near loss of a ship in pack on board our vessel in Spitsbergen ice, and the stranding of another as unwelcome as the weather in hurricane force winds and outside. He accepted the flak that the collapse of an ice-cliff onto came his way and openly discussed the vessel. the situation before we set sail. The pioneers of Antarctic However, the sea temperature exploration, the area’s history, dropped five degrees in 24 hours and the hardships and incredible and the wind moved around to the achievements of those original south, causing the pack ice to seafarers are described. Yet polar tighten up dangerously around navigation during the author’s years our small ice-strengthened vessel. was not without peril and the near We reluctantly had to abandon this loss in ice of his first ship, the RRS Polar Mariner: second attempt as well and return Shackleton, the demise of her Master, to port. But in the process Captain and his ill-judged replacement and Beyond the Woodfield, unknowingly, had taught consequent dramas are fully told. me techniques of manoeuvring a After a voyage of enormous Limits in vessel safely and successfully in responsibility aged just 25, extreme ice conditions that no he transferred to the RRS John Antarctica, textbook can provide. This proved Biscoe as Chief Officer under a fine of huge value to me years later when seaman but a difficult disciplinarian. by Captain Tom ice piloting on various vessels in The first ventures of theJohn Biscoe Woodfield the Antarctic. into the Weddell Sea are recounted, Back to his book, Polar Mariner: with information on the nature and Book reviewed by John Parsloe, Beyond the Limits in Antarctica. movement of ice, its interrelationship retired polar mariner I was not disappointed. This very with weather, and the methods of readable book is a reminiscence navigation in ice before the age hat a delight to be of voyaging for 20 years to the of satellites. asked to review this Falkland Islands, South Georgia, The author recounts the W book! Unknown and the Antarctic. extraordinary maiden voyage of the to the editor of Antarctic, I had Tom Woodfield joined the RRS Bransfield, which he had been sailed with the author, Captain Falkland Islands Dependencies appointed to command, during Tom Woodfield. Would his slim Survey in 1955 as a young junior which it was feared she would split volume of 202 pages come up to deck officer, when the expedition in two. The battle with a horrendous my expectations? mentality still prevailed, along storm at the end of his last voyage is In July 1982 I was serving as with making the best of the tools fully described, together with his final a deck officer on the small polar they had available. During his time sentimental return to the Falklands. expedition vessel Benjamin Bowring this organisation grew to become I leave the final word to HRH in the Arctic. Captain Woodfield had the British Antarctic Survey. The Princess Royal. In her foreword joined our vessel in Spitsbergen as ice He played a paramount role in the to the book Princess Anne writes: pilot for the second attempt to reach gradual change from underpowered “This is an account of polar Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Charles and poorly equipped ships to exploration, seamanship and human Burton on their ice floe in the pack the professionally managed endeavour that is rarely found in this ice of the Arctic Ocean. The crossing and sophisticated vessels of his modern age and I am sure you will of the frozen Arctic Ocean was last command. enjoy reading it.” the final stage of their Transglobe Exploration and survival during Published by Whittles Publishing Expedition (1979–1982). his early years in this unforgiving Ltd., Dunbeath, Caithness, We had already tried and failed continent are described. Attempts Scotland, U.K. RRP (UK) £18.99. to reach Ran and Charlie and saw were made to establish research ISBN 978-184995-166-1.

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 41 TRIBUTE

Malcolm John Macfarlane By David Lucas

Officer at Scott Base, and in the and never overbearing. These 1988 winter he became the base’s qualities, linked with his vast Winter-Over Manager of 13 staff. experience, made Malcolm a He then became the New Zealand comfortably able exemplar, and a Antarctic Programme’s Operations non-judgemental senior manager. Manager and, over five summers, It amazed me that even after our New Zealand’s Senior Representative traditional Scott Base formal dinners, (SENZREP) at Scott Base. In the entertaining the most esteemed years between 1983 and 1995 he company, he would later go to the had made 55 trips to the Ice and workshop to fix a broken radio spent just over four years in total on or rebuild a scientific instrument, the continent. for such was this man’s hard work Malcolm and I first met in ethic and energy. Early-season July 1993 when he was on his start-ups can be very fatiguing. penultimate tour of duty as He’d happily fall into bed at around alcolm passed away Operations Manager for the New 2 o’clock in the morning having just unexpectedly at Zealand Antarctic Programme. completed yet another eighteen- M home as a result of As the incoming Engineering hour working day. He would be a massive heart attack on Monday Manager I spent many days with eloquent at after-dinner speeches 11 April 2016, aged 60 years. him in Christchurch planning the as SENZREP, and then deeply He was the eldest son of the late electrical systems turnaround at practical with a strong commitment Jim and Alba MacFarlane and the Scott Base to Programmable Logic to keeping Scott Base running. beloved and treasured husband of Control, whilst preparing for the Malcolm possessed an uncanny eye Rosey Mabin. August 1993 Winfly flights to for detail. Thus was the man. Malcolm was educated at Antarctica. I was on one of these During our mutual time at Scott Wanganui Collegiate, and in flights, and I returned to New Base, during the spring of 1993, and 1980 gained a master’s degree in Zealand after ten days’ engineering around 4 o’clock every morning Agricultural Science at Lincoln appraisal work. Six weeks later engineering alarms would sound University. He went to work with in October we both flew down to in our shared room and wake us. the Ministry of Agriculture and Antarctica and became “roomies”. This was my time to get up and Fisheries, and after three years Malcolm left towards the end of the unblock the seawater filters he was seconded to the Antarctic year when his term as SENZREP “blinded” by krill. Malcolm never Division of the Department of expired. I had the honour of sharing became annoyed, although the Scientific and Industrial Research to nearly six months in his close alarms sounded each morning be summer leader at New Zealand’s company as a professional colleague for weeks, and this showed the Vanda Station in Wright Valley. and found him to be a mindful, measure of his tolerance and his The station’s staff of four hosted highly inquisitive, and extremely commitment to having Scott Base visitors, supported scientific research, adaptable man. He became a operate smoothly. At 8 o’clock in ran a meteorological programme, special friend. the morning for six days a week and sampled and recorded the flow Malcolm was a perfect he ran the Manager’s Morning of the Onyx River. mentor and I admired him greatly. Meeting, with plenty of black coffee In the 1987–88 summer He was understanding and on offer. Malcolm was appointed Operations insightful, welcoming and humorous, Malcolm took five of these Manager and Senior Scientific knowledgeable and professional, seasons as SENZREP in his stride,

Photo above: Malcolm Macfarlane, President NZAS, 1993.

42 Issue 237 TRIBUTE

Malcolm embraced the isolation and challenges of being self-reliant, while quietly becoming increasingly resilient, which enabled him to resist the fatigue brought about by consistently demanding days and nights on the Ice. Malcolm in 2015 with highland cow Heaven on his Inglewood property. Sue Dowd/Fairfax NZ.

so creating an action-filled culture Leaving the Antarctic Programme and grew and now attracts $6,000,000 where empowering team dynamics in 1995 Malcolm worked on tourist in funding. What a success! He was naturally developed. His position of ships as a guide and lecturer, visiting also helping establish an agribusiness Winter-Over Manager at Scott Base in the Ross Sea and sub-Antarctic islands. service hub in Saudi Arabia to showcase 1988 would have been the “S.A.S.” of Later, whilst in Wellington for twelve New Zealand technical services, management training, and stood him years, he had a 9-to-5 job for the first farming systems, animal health, well for his 55 visits to the continent. time ever in his life, installing the on-farm equipment, genetics, and farm During that time he held a myriad digitised 111 service for the national expertise. list of positions of high responsibility. police and fire services. His operational Malcolm was President of the New If it was difficult or near impossible skills complemented his expertise in Zealand Antarctic Society from 1993 Malcolm would take it on. digital data and technology, which were to 1995. His main role was to set up Malcolm embraced the isolation often used at the highest level (by the a website for the Society to enhance and challenges of being self-reliant, prime minister). communication among members while quietly becoming increasingly Later, his involvement in disaster and the public. He was in fact in resilient, which enabled him to management was pivotal in the conversation with Society leaders on resist the fatigue brought about aftermath of the 9/11 attacks and the upgrading the website at the time of his by consistently demanding days Christchurch earthquake recovery. untimely death. and nights on the Ice. Leadership Malcolm was also highly involved in Words that come from the heart positions can be lonely, and the data collection for the prevention enter the heart. Malcolm played this role well, of the spread of swine flu, and, on Rosey, his wife, has offered this assuming responsibility where it a lighter note, for the 2011 Rugby reflection. Thank you, Rosey. was needed with good humour, World Cup. always helping others. His summers were spent in My wise, strong, logical, The New Zealand Geographic the Falklands or South Georgia gentle, thoughtful, lovely man, Names Board has acknowledged establishing a wildlife foundation rock solid, and nothing fazed his worth and has named a locality that is now a reality. him. My total softie under his after him, MacFarlane Bluff: a bluff Malcolm was more recently bearded reserve. I honour him. reaching to over 1,800 metres (6,000 involved in a small project to improve feet) in the All-Blacks Nunataks, grass seed for drought-ridden coastal And so do we, Rosey. west of the Churchill Mountains country and sheep farms. The outcomes of Antarctica. were so dramatic that the project grew

Vol 34, No. 3, 2016 43 Worsley Enchanted

n 1914, as Britain declared war on The three New Germany, Shackleton and his crew Zealand branches I departed for the Weddell Sea in the ship of the Society, in Endurance. Their goal was to complete the first Auckland, Wellington Best Design Awards Finalist 2016 crossing of Antarctica. and Canterbury, will be Shackleton and a small team would land holding launch events on Antarctica, and head, via the South Pole, for Worsley Enchanted in to the other side of the continent, emerging the coming months. at Ross Island in the Ross Sea to be met by a Copies are also support party. available from the Society Shackleton’s Ross Sea support party were at worsleyenchanted@ to lay re-supply depots for Shackleton to collect antarctic.org.nz. The and use once he had passed the South Pole. price is NZ$15.00 + Wor sle y This support party were taken south on the postage (NZ$5 within Enchanted Aurora, and then effectively marooned when New Zealand, and DOUGLAS STEWART their ship was swept out to sea in a storm NZ$7 for overseas). and unable to return. Despite this, and with a severe shortage of rations and clothing both for themselves and for Shackleton, they completed Name: their mission and returned to their base Address: (Scott's 1910–14 Terra Nova hut) to await rescue. Sadly, three from this party died. Meanwhile, Shackleton’s ship Endurance was Email: locked in a battle with sea ice, which eventually crushed and sank it. While the ship was sinking, Phone: Shackleton’s men removed stores and lifeboats, initially setting up a camp on the ice, and then Please send me copies of Worsley Enchanted man-hauling the three lifeboats across the ice @ $NZ15.00 each...... $NZ to the open sea, from where they sailed to Plus Postage Elephant Island. (NZ$5, Overseas: NZ$7)...... $NZ From Elephant Island, Shackleton and five men sailed to South Georgia where they gave the Payment by: Cheque (payable to NZ Antarctic Society) alarm, and eventually they were able to rescue all Mastercard/Visa/AMEX of the remaining men from Elephant Island. Once all the men were saved, Shackleton then made Direct deposit to NZAS account another voyage, this time to the Ross Sea, to rescue the surviving men from his support party. Card no: The small boat voyage in the James Caird, Expiry date: Card security code: from Elephant Island to South Georgia , is a (The last three numbers on the back of Visa/Mastercard classic epic of man vs. ocean. The boat was Signature: or four numbers from the front of the Amex card) navigated by New Zealander Frank Worsley, and the story, told from his perspective, was penned as a poem, Worsley Enchanted, by Douglas Stewart, and first published in serial form in The Bulletin, in 1948. It has subsequently been included in NZ Antarctic Society Please send to: three anthologies. account details are: New Zealand Antarctic Society 02-0800-0685108-02 PO Box 404 The New Zealand Antarctic Society is pleased New Zealand Antarctic Christchurch 8140 to announce the release of a stand-alone edition Society Inc. New Zealand or of Worsley Enchanted in the centennial year of the BNZ, Christchurch Branch [email protected] voyage of the James Caird.

44 Issue 237 You are invited to join; please complete the membership application form:

Name:

Address: www.antarctic.org.nz Email: New Zealand Phone: Students (with ID)...... NZ$40 International members Antarctic Society Unwaged...... NZ$40 add NZ$15 to the relevant NZ (Individual)...... NZ$70 New Zealand membership Membership NZ (Family)...... NZ$80 category NZ (Institutions)...... NZ$180

The New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc Payment by: Cheque (payable to NZ Antarctic Society) was formed in 1933. It comprises New Zealanders and overseas friends, Mastercard/Visa/AMEX many of whom have been to the Antarctic Direct deposit to NZAS account and all of whom are interested in some aspect of Antarctic exploration, history, Card no: science, wildlife or adventure. A membership to the New Zealand Expiry date: Card security code: Antarctic Society entitles members to: (The last three numbers on the back of Visa/Mastercard Signature: or four numbers from the front of the Amex card) • Antarctic, the quarterly publication of the Society. Antarctic is unique in Antarctic literature as it is the only periodical which provides regular and up to date news of the activities NZ Antarctic Society account Please send your membership of all nations at work in the Antarctic, details are: application form to: Southern Ocean and Subantarctic 02-0800-0685108-02 New Zealand Antarctic Society Islands. It has worldwide circulation. New Zealand Antarctic PO Box 404 • Attend meetings, and educational Society Inc. Christchurch 8140 and fun events that are held by the BNZ, Christchurch Branch New Zealand Auckland, Wellington and Canterbury branches of the Society. Overseas branch enquiries should be Claims for missing issues should directed to [email protected], be sent to [email protected]. or to: Such claims can be considered only if The National Secretary made immediately after the subscriber New Zealand Antarctic Society has received the subsequent issue. PO Box 404 Christchurch 8140 The Editor of Antarctic welcomes articles from any New Zealand DESIGN: Gusto Design person on any subject related to the Antarctic, the Southern Ocean or Subantarctic regions. Antarctic magazine correspondence, PO Box 11994 In particular, articles recounting personal experiences advertising enquiries, and article Manners Street of your time in the Antarctic are welcomed. submissions should be sent to Wellington Articles may be submitted at any time to the Editor [email protected], or to: Tel (04) 499 9150 at [email protected]. The Editor reserves the The Editor Fax (04) 499 9140 right to decline to publish an article for any reason New Zealand Antarctic Society Email: [email protected] whatsoever. Note that all articles will be subject to PO Box 404 PRINTED BY: Format Print, Wellington editorial review before publishing. Please see our Christchurch 8140 This publication is printed using advice to contributors and guidelines for authors at New Zealand vegetable-based inks onto Sumo Matt, www.antarctic.org.nz/pages/journal.html, or contact Enquiries regarding back issues which is a stock sourced from sustainable the Editor. of Antarctic should be sent to forests with FSC (Forest Stewardship Advertising, including inserts, is also welcome. [email protected], or to the Council) and ISO accreditations. Please contact the Editor for rates and bookings. National Treasurer at the above address. Antarctic is distributed in flow biowrap. In Memoriam: The Heroes of the Antarctic

Far, far from home, amid th’ eternal snows, And brooding silence of that bleak, lone land, They lie at rest, their life’s brave journey o’er; Their grave—the scene of their heroic strife; Their winding-sheet—the snow; their requiem— The fierce Antarctic storm … Not theirs to hear From King and countrymen, ’mid cheering crowds, The proud, glad welcome home; but from that scene Of death so nobly met, they went up higher; To meet a mightier King, and hear from Him The glad “Well done!” Death has no sting. And Grave no victory, for such as these; Who being dead, yet speak, with deathless words, Of noble courage and self-sacrifice; Of hardships bravely borne, and life itself Giv’n up for comrades’ sake. Yes, brave, true souls, For honour of your country have you died; But in her people’s hearts your memory lives, While England lasts!

By J. W. Stones