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“S.W.A.G. = Style with a Goal”: Exploring Fashion/Style As a Critical Literacy of Black Youth in Urban Schools

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“S.W.A.G. = Style with a Goal”: Exploring Fashion/Style As a Critical Literacy of Black Youth in Urban Schools “S.W.A.G. = STYLE WITH A GOAL”: EXPLORING FASHION/STYLE AS A CRITICAL LITERACY OF BLACK YOUTH IN URBAN SCHOOLS By Sherrae M. Hayes A DISSERTATION Submitted to Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements of the degree of African American and African Studies – Doctor of Philosophy 2015 0 ABSTRACT “S.W.A.G. = STYLE WITH A GOAL”: EXPLORING FASHION/STYLE AS A CRITICAL LITERACY OF BLACK YOUTH IN URBAN SCHOOLS By Sherrae M. Hayes This study is a multi-method, qualitative project using Youth Participatory Action Research through ethnographic design to examine the uses of fashion/style by Black youth as a form of critical literacy. Taking place in the setting of an urban, public, Midwestern middle school, the work outlines the ways these students communicated through their fashion sense and thus made sense of their identities and the identities of others as messages critically coded and decoded daily. This work examines current texts/theories surrounding characteristics of uniform policy, critical literacy, and identity development through fashion/style. Ultimately, through this study’s action-orientation, this work highlights how students participated in student-led development of a uniform/dress code policy that incorporated their own critical fashion literacies. Critical Fashion Literacy , a particular form of critical literacy this work seeks to contribute to literacy studies at large, is centered upon the notion of how we each possibly read and write messages and meanings through fashion/style daily. Essentially, this study works to center youth voices with a potential impact on possibilities for their future as change agents in education in their own right – moving beyond fashion statements to the statements they are making through fashion. 1 Dedicated to the SWAG School Design Team – a team of five brilliant and committed young ladies who made U.S. history in more ways than one; may your innovations shift education into a new day. Stay Fly. iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS If there is no struggle, there is no progress. – Frederick Douglass God: Of course, G-O-D pulled me through a very difficult, but rewarding journey. I now know what it really means to have the peace that passes all understanding. My Family: Eternal thanks to my mom, Marsha M. Thornton, for always, always, always having my back, keeping me on track with bible verses, songs, food, prayer, and so much more at the very moments I needed it. Nothing but love for my dad, Sherwin Hayes, whose talent for building structures from the ground up helped me to understand that this goal could be accomplished from blueprint to ribbon cutting. Much appreciation to my stepdad, Ronnie Thornton, for giving me the nickname “Sistah Soul” long ago because this was indeed work from the soul. Hugs to a host of family members who have kept me lifted in prayer and positive energy. Lastly, to my sister and my best friend forever, Courtney L. Green, thanks for being the definition of a true sister – unwavering in your support each and every day. My “Framily”: It is difficult for me to call these folks just friends because in many ways they are my family too. Special thanks to my “Breezies”, my lifelong sistah-friends from Cleveland who know me better than I know myself. Many thanks to my line sisters, First Co11ection, who are surely women committed to sisterhood, scholarship and service through our beloved organization, Delta Sigma Theta Sorority, Inc. To my best friend crew from Tennessee State, thanks for keeping it all the way real with me from the dorm room to now. I never would have made it without my two sistah scholas who started this exact journey at the same moment that I did and have had my back all iv the way through – Ashley and Cona. I must also give one million thanks to my other sistah-scholas who also know the struggle: Carleen, April, Raven, Letitia, and Laura. I would like to give a special shout-out to my cohort as well, specifically Kalonji and Ken who will always be my academic brothers. Much love to Dr. Sandra Holt and Dr. William Latham who were my very first inspiration for pursuing a doctoral degree. Attending an HBCU certainly helped me understand that I too could be the Black Ph.D. standing in front of the class. Lastly, I would like to thank a very special someone who, without fanfare, reentered my life at the right time – cooked many meals, was a shoulder to lean on, and kept a big smile on my face through it all. C.E.M., thanks for being my partner in crime, just like we were back in the hallways of Glenville High School over a decade ago. My Committee: My classic line in each email over the past few years has been “I cannot thank you enough.” There really are no words, but thank you: Dr. David Kirkland (Best Chair Ever), Dr. Django Paris, Dr. Dorinda Carter Andrews, Dr. Chris Dunbar, and Dr. Diana N’Diaye. I would also like to thank Dr. Rita Kiki Edozie for her leadership as Chair of African American and African Studies. Finally, I would like to acknowledge those precious loved ones who transitioned into their next phase of being during my dissertation writing process, Booker T. White and Nneka Fritz. Their shift into ancestorhood this year has given me so much power because I know they have my back and are in a place where love and support comes down from them to us here on earth in the most unique and peace-filled ways. I would also like to acknowledge my best friend, Forrest K. Evans, who transitioned as I was finishing my master’s degree and beginning the early stages of what would soon lead to v the research this study uncovers. Forrest went too soon in natural time, but in supernatural time his impact on my life still continues. I know he is smiling down and has already been calling me “Dr. Hayes” since this journey began. In the end, this PhD is not for me. I always say, my hood is for my hood, and this little Eastside of Cleveland girl is going to make it happen for the people who made this happen for me. It’s just that simple. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES…………………………………………………………………….. x LIST OF FIGURES…………………………………………………………………… xi INTRODUCTION “BLACK LIVES MATTER”………………………………….…… 1 Statement of Problem……………………………………………………….… 2 Miseducation………………………………………………….............. 2 School-to-Prison Pipeline…………………………………………….. 3 Opposition Towards Black Bodies……………….……..….............. 5 Statement of Purpose…………………………………………………………. 6 Organization of Dissertation…………………………………………………. 10 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………... 12 CHAPTER 1……………………………………………………………………………… 13 “FROM MOTHALAND SWAG TO THE SCHOOL BAG”: Review of Literature…. 13 The Politics of the Black Body: Gaze Theory Meets Critical Black Thought………………………………………………………...... 14 The Politics of Adornment: The Black Fashion/Style Aesthetic Timeline.. 20 The Politics of Choice: Critical Literacy and Uniform/Dress Code Research……………………………..………………………………………….. 26 Literacy…………….…………………………………………………...... 26 Critical Literacy…………….……………………………………………. 31 Influential Theories Supporting Critical Literacy……………. 32 Current Critical Literacy Concepts……………….…………… 35 Uniform/Dress Code Policy Research……………………………..... 40 Economies of Adornment – A Review of Uniforms in Urban Schools………………………………………………. 40 Urban Uniform Policy Research……………………………... 43 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………… 51 Conceptual Framework……………………………………………...... 51 CHAPTER 2……………………………………………………………………………… 53 “WELCOME TO THE NEW SCHOOL”: Methodology and Methods…………….. 53 Critical Ethnography……………………………………………………………. 53 Youth Participatory Action Research…………………………………………. 54 Key Terms……………………………………….……………………………….. 56 Research Design……………………………………….……………………….. 57 Research Questions………………………….……………………........ 58 Site Description………………………………….…………………........ 58 Participant Selection………………………………………………........ 59 Participant Profiles……………………………………………………… 61 Curriculum Design………………………….…………………………… 63 Curriculum Components………………………………………. 65 vii Researcher’s Role and Positionality…………………………………. 65 Data Collection…………………………………………………………………. 68 Data Analysis…………………………………………………………………… 73 Data Analysis Procedures…………………………………………….. 74 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………........ 79 CHAPTER 3……………………………………………………………………………… 81 “YOU CAN BUY SCHOOL, BUT YOU CAN’T BUY CLASS”: The Politics of the Black Body…………………………………..…………………………………..…….... 81 The Black Body – Under the Threads……………………………………….. 82 On the Daily – The Untucked Shirt Issue.…………………………… 82 The Hooded Black Body…………………………………………......... 86 Politics of The (Gendered) Black Body………………………………………. 90 Picture Day and Performance of Gender...…………….................... 90 What Black Girls Rock – Skirts and Shorts Issue…………………… 93 Order and Control………………………………………………………………. 95 Free Dress Meets Recess………………….………………………….. 95 Conclusion………………………………………………………………………. 96 CHAPTER 4……………………………………………………………………………… 97 “GOTTA STAY FLY”: The Politics of Adornment……………………………………. 97 Levels to This: Free Dress vs. The Freedom to Dress……….................... 98 School Dances………………………………………………………….. 99 “Fee Dress Not Free Dress – Student Critiques of Free Dress........ 101 SWAG School…………………………………………………………………… 103 Beginning Sessions…………………………………………………….. 105 Black English and Black Style…………………………………………. 107 Key Concepts – Fashion/Style as Text………………….................... 107 What I See and What They See – i-collage Activity..…................... 109 Uniform Policy Analysis – Existing Policy……………….................. 114 Conclusion………………………………………………………………………. 121 CHAPTER 5……………………………………………………………………………… 123 “MY SCHOOL
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