Where Snow Is a Landmark: Route Direction Elements in Alpine Contexts
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Intermediate-Climbs-Guide-1.Pdf
Table of Conte TABLE OF CONTENTS Preface.......................................................................1 Triumph NE Ridge.....................................47 Privately Organized Intermediate Climbs ...................2 Vayu NW Ridge.........................................48 Intermediate Climbs List.............................................3 Vesper N Face..............................................49 Rock Climbs ..........................................................3 Wedge Mtn NW Rib ...................................50 Ice Climbs..............................................................4 Whitechuck SW Face.................................51 Mountaineering Climbs..........................................5 Intermediate Mountaineering Climbs........................52 Water Ice Climbs...................................................6 Brothers Brothers Traverse........................53 Intermediate Climbs Selected Season Windows........6 Dome Peak Dome Traverse.......................54 Guidelines for Low Impact Climbing...........................8 Glacier Peak Scimitar Gl..............................55 Intermediate Rock Climbs ..........................................9 Goode SW Couloir.......................................56 Argonaut NW Arete.....................................10 Kaleetan N Ridge .......................................57 Athelstan Moonraker Arete................11 Rainier Fuhrer Finger....................................58 Blackcomb Pk DOA Buttress.....................11 Rainier Gibralter Ledge.................................59 -
Alpine Courses Instruction Booklet
Alpine Courses Instruction Booklet by Sarah Hodgson & Kingsley Jones Photo: climbing Cascade Lillaz, Val de Cogne Booklet copyright 2014, www.icicle.co.uk 2: Basic Alpine Ropework – Knots This section covers the key knots that you will require in the Alps. You only need to know the knots pictured below, and there is an explanation of the situations in which you would use each one. In all the diagrams the rope is either a half or full rope (8-11mm), and the thinner ropes (bottom three diagrams) are prussic cord which is 7mm in diameter. Figure of 8 Doubled Figure 8 Bowline This diagram is just so that you This is the preferred way to tie on, A quick method of tying on, but it can ensure that you can make the as it is essentially two opposing is not as easy to check as a initial figure of 8 to start tying on, figure of 8 knots tightening Double Figure of 8. It must be before retracing the shape with against each other. A stopper used with a stopper knot, and it is the loose end of rope. knot on the end is optional. easy to undo after a fall. Stopper Knot Clove Hitch Italian / Munter This knot is to be used if you have For locking off a rope at a belay This hitch is clipped onto a tied on with a bowline, or two can stance, this knot is the best karabiner, and is used to either be used against each other to method. It is very adjustable, so lower off or belay. -
Accidents in North American Climbing 2018 Accidents in North American Climbing
ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBING 2018 ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBING KNOW THE ROPES: SAFER 4TH CLASS ACCIDENTS In North American Climbing 2018 Volume 11 | Number 3 | Issue 71 AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GOLDEN, COLORADO ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA CANMORE, ALBERTA CONTENTS 6 Preface FEATURE ARTICLES 8 Know the Ropes: Safer 4th Class 16 Danger Zones: Mt. Hood ACCIDENTS & ANALYSIS 22 United States 110 Canada ESSENTIALS 33 Lower Leg Injuries 83 Evacuate an Injured Patient 113 Avalanche Response TABLES 120 Annual Data Summary Front Cover: Ridge climbing in the High Sierra. Photo by Ken Etzel | kenetzelphoto.com. Back Cover: zColorado Flight for Life in action. © 2018 The American Alpine Club All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any infor- mation and retrieval systems, without permission from the publisher. ISBN: 978-0-9998556-1-4; (e-book) 978-0-9998556-3-8. Manufactured in the United States. Published by the American Alpine Club, 710 Tenth Street, Suite 100, Golden, CO, 80401, www. americanalpineclub.org. WARNING! The activities described within Accidents in North American Climbing (ANAC)—including but not limited to: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, backcountry skiing, or any other outdoor activity—carry a significant risk of personal injury or death. The owners, staff, contributors, and volunteers that create this publication recommend that you DO NOT participate in these activities unless you are an expert, have sought or obtained qualified professional instruction or guidance, are knowledgeable about the risks involved, and are willing to assume personal responsibility for all the risks associated with these activities.