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West & the Isles of Scilly

Includes  Why Go? West Cornwall...... 210 While most visitors head for the tourist honey pots of the St Ives ...... 210 north coast, the wild west of Cornwall receives fewer visitors Peninsula. . . . 214 outside the major draws of St Ives and Land’s End. But the real beauty of this corner lies off the beaten track: it’s a land ...... 218 where stone monuments rise up from the hilltops, ancient Mousehole...... 222 moorland butts up against gorse-topped cliffs, and forgotten Lizard Point...... 228 mine stacks stand out in relief against the skyline. The Helford...... 229 With its sparkling seaside setting and artistic connec- Isles of Scilly. . . . . 230 tions, the attractions of St Ives are very well known, and the town can feel uncomfortably crowded between July and St Mary’s...... 231 September; visit in early spring or autumn and you’ll find things quieter. Similarly, the main beaches around Gwithi- an, Sennen and the Lizard can be very busy, but many more Best Places to Eat remote coves can be reached via the coast path. And for a real escape, the lesser-visited islands of Scilly feel like a ¨¨Shore (p219) whole different world. ¨¨Tolcarne Inn (p222) ¨¨Gurnard’s Head (p218) ¨¨Ben’s Cornish Kitchen When to Go (p223) ¨¨Apr celebrates Cornwall’s food culture with a big festival, when top chefs and suppliers set up stalls by the ¨¨Kota (p227) harbour. ¨¨Porthminster Beach Café ¨¨ St Mary’s on the Isles of Scilly hosts the World (p212) May Pilot Gig Championships over a weekend in early May. Accommodation is almost impossible to find, so you’ll need to book at least six months ahead Best Views ¨¨Jun Penzance stages its big summer street celebration ¨¨Gwithian and Godrevy during the in : try to visit on Mazey Day (p213) if you can, when the whole town turns out to party. ¨¨Porthcurno (p216) ¨¨Dec lights cover the harbour around Mousehole, ¨¨Lizard Point (p229) and Penzance’s pagan provides a slightly more alternative view of the festive season. ¨¨Hell’s Mouth (p213) ¨¨Kynance Cove (p228) ¨¨Land’s End (p215)

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