Tanera Mor: Evaluation of Standing Buildings
Catherine Dagg, BA, ACIfA
For
Summer Isles Enterprises Ltd.
Achiltibuie
Wester Ross
IV26 2YN.
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Tanera Mor: Evaluation of Standing Buildings
1.0 Background to Evaluation
With new ownership and extensive plans for development on Tanera Mor, in September 2017 it was agreed that an audit of cultural heritage resources on the island, particularly standing buildings with potential for refurbishment, was advisable. The aims of the evaluation were to give an approximate date of construction, alterations and abandonment for each building, to link them with any known historical facts and allow an informed decision on any proposals for development.
The evaluation attempts to cover all dwelling houses, barns and byres, on the assumption that the latter may well stand on the footings of earlier buildings, and all examples of these types, whether roofed and in use, reduced to footings or lost from the archaeological record.
This evaluation does not cover the herring station complex, which is covered by a separate investigation. Other archaeological features, including structures, dykes and areas of cultivation are covered by an archaeological report.
2.0 Historical Background
Tanera Mor was a part of the Coigach estates of the Earl of Cromartie. A detailed map of the island was drawn for the estate in 1784, the date of transfer of ownership of part of the island to Morison and Mackenzie to establish a herring station. This map clearly shows that there were no dwellings or other buildings on the island at this date apart from in the immediate vicinity of the proposed herring station. Areas of cultivation were shown in detail, as were two shieling sites. It is documented that there were tenants resident on the island before this date, so it is assumed that all early settlement was within the Quay area.
2.1 Crofts
After the sale of the Quay area, tenants of the Cromartie estate would have been forced to create new townships on the lands still belonging to the estate, and two townships developed: Ardnagoine to the north and Garadheancal, or Acarsaidh to the south. The island was lotted in 1845. This may not have affected the pattern of settlement, but evidence from the census returns of 1841 and 1851 suggest a degree of movement of families onto their new lots.
The families, many of which intermarried, stayed stable through the 19th century, with two families leaving to emigrate to Australia on the Sir Alan Macnab in 1853 and two new families arriving in the 1850s from Reiff and Isle Ristol. The number of households peaked in the 1860s then declined slowly until the beginning of the 20th century, after which depopulation happened rapidly. Through the 1920s there are three croft tenants, these have all left by 1931.
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Around 1860 the area around Lochanach, already valuable arable ground, was settled by two families who moved from elsewhere on the island. One family stayed there until around 1920 when a drowning accident took two able-bodied men from the island.
Between Quay and Acarsaidh one house appears to have served as an inn, presumably for fishermen and other sailors. This house, referred to as Brae in census returns but marked as an inn on Admiralty charts, was owned by one family, MacLean, from at least 1841 through to the start of the 20th century. However, the original inn house was replaced by a new building, constructed some time after 1875
There appears to have been a major phase of house improvement and new building between 1875 and 1902, probably towards the beginning of that period as the 1st edition Ordnance Survey map of that date appears to show some buildings under construction. This work was probably heavily supported financially by the Countess-Duchess of Cromartie-Sutherland. Between 1876 and 1884 the Cromartie estate spent more on improvements around Coigach than in any other part of the estate, while a sale of battens of timber on Tanera, advertised in December 1894, may indicate a phase of house improvement. The most common improvement was the insertion of flues and fi replaces in the gable ends of each dwelling, replacing the old system of the peat fire on the floor, and replacement of the old cruck frames supporting a turf or thatch roof with A-frames of imported timber lengths with Ballachulish slates as the roofing material.
Depopulation did not begin in earnest until the 20th century, with 19 households in 1891 reducing to 15 in 1901. The majority of families left in the 1920s.
In the mid 1930s, James Macleod returned from ranching in Manitoba and bought the island from the Cromartie estate, using the land himself but also letting land and houses to various tenants.
2.2 Quay
The Quay area, with ten acres of land as well as the herring station buildings, passed, after the failure of the herring curing industry, into the ownership of Meyrick Bankes (1865), and subsequently the Dundonnell estate (1893). It was tenanted as a croft by the Maclean family from around 1870 until the 1920s. In 1937 it was sold to Frank Fraser Darling, who lived there until 1944, in the process demolishing much of the remaining 1784 herring curing buildings. In 1948 the owner of the Quay area is Rev. Douglas Fleming Baxter, who also bought Old Dornie.
In 1963 the whole island came into the possession of KP Frampton, who restored six of the old croft houses and the schoolhouse, opened the island Post Office in 1970 and established the first salmon farm. Two new houses were built north of Tigh an Quay, in the 1980s, for salmon farm workers.
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Number and Location of households indicated by census returns:
1841 1851 1861 1871 1881 1891 1901
Ardnagoine 6 3 7 11 9 8 6
Quay 3 2 1 2 2 2 2
Brae (Inn) 1 1 3 1 1 1 1
Acarsaidh 7 7 6 6 7 6 5
Lochanach 2 2 2 2 2
3.0 Gazetteer of Standing Buildings.
This gazetteer runs from north to south and is based on site visits carried out on 6.9.17, 18.9.17 and 21.10.17. Each building identified on the ground or from early mapping has been given an unique number and its description is accompanied by a recent satellite image and detail from the second Edition Ordnance Survey map showing the location of building.
3.1 Ardnagione
This group includes all buildings north of the schoolhouse. The majority of buildings are ranged along the western edge of the large area of improved ground
Below are extracts from the 1st edition Ordnance Survey map, Ross and Cromartyshire lllA, surveyed 1875, published 1881 and 2nd edition, surveyed 1902, published 1906.
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1st ed. Ordnance Survey, 1875
2nd ed Ordnance Survey,1902
Ardnagoine 1.
Historical notes: As the most northerly dwelling and therefore first in the census returns, this is most likely to be the house occupied by MacLeods, who moved from Isle Ristol to Tanera during the 1850s
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and are still resident in 1901. The building was probably occupied before the arrival of the Macleods and may pre-date the lotting of the township.
Cartographic evidence: This house appears on the 1st edition OS map. On the 2nd edition it is slightly elongated to the north. A dyke to the west forms a small enclosure and attaches this building to the west gable of building A3
Description: There is a marked difference in building style on either side of the doorway. The northern half is of rough rubble construction and a fireplace has been built onto the existing gable end. There is one obvious cruck frame groove between the door and the window to the north, but the back wall is too tumbled to find this groove’s partner or ascertain whether there was a window opening on the back wall. The south half of the building is of dressed stone, with the gable rebuilt to incorporate a fireplace and flue, no cruck frame grooves are evident and the window opening flares inwards. This difference in style would suggest that at least the entire south gable and half of the front elevation of the building were completely taken down and rebuilt. The extension attached to the south also has an east facing elevation of dressed stone and a well-constructed gable, but with no fireplace. This has a window opening to the west. The doorway is infilled with rubble. The extension to the north is small and of rough rubble, there are slight traces of the foundation course of a further addition to the north.
P.1 East-facing (front) elevation of Ardnagoine1, showing differing building styles on either side of the central doorway
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P2. Interior, north end of Ardnagione 1, showing cruck frame groove between doorway and window opening.
Ardnagoine 2.
Cartographic Evidence: This building appears not to correspond to any structures on the first or second edition Ordnance Survey maps, dating its construction to after 1901.
Description: An approximately square building, aligned E-W, of very rough rubble construction, gables indicating a very shallow roof. Single doorway on south wall. This has the appearance of a barn or byre. Clearing of vegetation in the interior revealed a rough slabbed floor utilising local stone, with a central drainage channel leading to an outflow at the base of the east gable wall, confirming the function of the building as a byre. 7
P3. Ardnagoine 2: View from west of outer face of west gable
P4. Interior of A2 showing drainage channel and slabbed floor
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Ardnagoine 3.
Historical notes: This building is correctly placed to be the home of the Maclean family, present as second in the census from 1861
Cartographic Evidence: This building appears on both the 1st and 2nd edition OS maps, its dimensions suggesting a dwelling.
Description: There is now little trace of this building. It was probably substantially demolished during the construction of building A2. However, an approximately square setting of large boulders may represent thr foundation course of the robbed stonework
P5. A3, possible boulder footings of robbed walling, view from NE
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Ardnagoine 4.
Historical Notes: This building was the newly built home of the William Mathieson family, present here from the 1891 census but before this most likely to have been in A8. This building is referred to in Alick Macleod’s account of Tanera as having cost only £14 to build, distinguished from its neighbour by not having been slated. Dugald Mathieson of this family drowned in 1920; probably the family left soon after.
Cartographic evidence: This building is not present on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey map, and appears to have a smaller footprint on the 2nd edition map than at present. This suggests it may only have bben partially built by 1902.
Description: This building appears to be of standard proportions, but built very close to the gable end of the houseto the south, A5. Only 1.5m separate the two, this gap now being infilled with a roofed shed. There is also an upper floor window in the south gable facing directly onto the wall of A5. This building is faced with dressed stone, and fireplaces and flues are built into both gable ends. Two windows in the front and one in the back elevations all splay inwards. These features all suggest a single phase of building consistent with the cartographic evidence, the only later feature being the insertion of a rubble interior partition wall north of the doorway.
P6. Ardnagoine 4, interior view of south gable with infilled fireplace and upper floor window opening 10
Ardnagoine 5. ‘Murdo’s Cottage’
Historical background; This was the home of Murdo Macleod, whose family moved to Tanera from Isle Ristol in the 1850s. Murdo left Tanera in 1931. His son, Alick Macleod wrote the article ‘Tanera Island’, which included the comment that ‘There is a slated cottage on the Ardnangoine end of Tanera, substantially built and still standing, which cost only 20 pounds to build’ This is one of the eight croft houses renovated by Frampton after 1963.
Cartographic Evidence: There is no building on this site on the 1875 Ordnance Survey map, but it is present on the 1901 2nd edition although depicted as smaller than the present building. This suggests that in 1902 it was only partially constructed. As the Macleods had been resident on the island since the 1850s they must have been living elsewhere while this was being built, probably at A6.
Description: This building is a standard, late 19th century 1½ storey crofthouse with slate roof and dressed stone chimneys. 1960s improvements include dormer windows, modern windows downstairs and porch. Interior was not examined during this evaluation. To the south is an attached byre or shed of rough rubble, much altered or rebuilt. To the east is an enclosed garden area.
P7. A5, view from SE
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Ardnagoine 6.
Historical Notes: This may have been the home of the Mackenzies, related by marriage to the Macleods in A1 and A5, originally from Reiff but resident on Tanera on the 1861 census.
Cartographic evidence: This building is depicted on both 1st and 2nd edition Ordnance Survey maps, but is not now visible. Its dimensions suggest a dwelling and the maps show it to have the same alignment, SSW-facing, as building A3. This may also have been an early building, pre-dating the establishment of crofts, which was made redundant with the building of A5. The 1st edition map also shows a small barn or byre to the south.
Description: presumed demolished, no obvious remains
Ardnagoine 7.
Cartographic Evidence: This building is depicted on both the 1st and 2nd edition Ordnance Survey maps, aligned NNW-SSR, with an attached enclosure to the west. It has the dimensions of a dwelling. It is not distinct on the satellite image and is presumed to have fallen out of use, and possibly been robbed for stone, early in the 20th century
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Description: Now almost entirely demolished by the construction of the new access track, some walling presumed to be the SW corner of the building survives behind dumped rubble west of the track (2017, now no trace, 2019)
P8: Ardnagoine 7, residual SW corner of demolished building, view from north.
Ardnagoine 8
Historical Notes: This is most likely one of the houses of the Mathesons, this family was present on Tanera since at least 1826, with Dugald Matheson originally coming from Portree on Skye. On the census returns of 1861, 1871 and 1881 the Mathesons are listed as occupying three contiguous households, but only two in 1891 and 1901. A8 probably represents two of those households, with
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the northern part becoming redundant when one family (William Matheson) moves to the newly built A4 by 1891
Cartographic Evidence: This is the largest house depicted at Ardnagoine, shown on both the 1st and 2nd edition OS maps but possibly occupying a larger area on the 2nd. It is also probably the sole building shown on the 1849 Admiralty chart.
Description: effectively two full-sized, conjoined dwellings, the southern part slightly larger. Both have fireplaces and flues built into the north gable, and freestanding stone fireplaces set against the inside face of the south gable. This arrangement suggests the partial rebuilding and improvement of pre-existing buildings, similar to A1. Here, the flue in the north gable of the southern part has collapsed. Windows flanking the central doorways of both parts splay inwards, and only the north dwelling has a small window opening in the back wall. There is a small rubble shed attached to the north end, and a large square garden enclosure to the east. Attached to the south gable are two small byres which are not depicted on the 2nd edition OS map and may be later additions
P9. North section of A8, smaller dwelling, view from east
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P10. South section of A8, larger dwelling, collapsed flue in north gable
P11. A8, two byres attached to south gable of larger dwelling, view from east
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Ardnagoine 9
Historical Notes: This is another house of the Mathesons, possibly abandoned after A12, ‘Farmhouse’ was constructed
Cartographic Evidence: Depicted on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey map as one long building, by the 2nd edition in 1902 only the east end is still roofed and may by this date have been converted to a barn or byre. In 1875 there was a small square byre or barn immediately behind this building, but by 1902 this has disappeared
Description: Although with a slight change of angle visible between east and west sections, this appears to have been originally one long building. Fireplaces and flues have been inserted into both gable ends and the stonework is neat and tight. Subsequent alterations have made the two end sections separate. The west section has one possible doorway infilled to become a window opening, the present doorway being in the east wall. A line of mortar and tar indicate a single pitched roofline set against the west gable, and there is mortar set around the doorway. The east section consists of two compartments divided by a rubble wall which is keyed into the outer wall with neat dressed quoins. There is no doorway between these two compartments. The east gable of this section has lost its skew stones.
The two fireplaces suggest that this building was improved towards the end of the 19th century. However, by 1902 it appears to have been abandoned as a dwelling in favour of the ne wly built A12 (Farmhouse)
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P12. General view of A9 from north west, showing extent of original single long building
P13, south gable of south section, inner face showing tidy stonework of fireplace and concrete line of single pitch roof 17
Ardnagoine 10
Cartographic Evidence: this building appears on both the 1st and the 2nd edition Ordnance Survey maps, attached to the end of a long dyke running NW-SE. Its location behind A9 and smaller size suggest a barn or byre.
Description: There was no evidence on the ground for this structure, or the lower section of dyke, although the dyke, a low turf bank, was a visible feature on the hillside to the NW
Ardnagoine 11
Cartographic Evidence: This structure does not appear on the 1st edition but is present on the 2nd edition Ordnance Survey map, giving a construction date of between 1875 and 1901, probably contemporary with A12. Its small size suggests a barn or byre
Description: Very overgrown and seemingly perched on a narrow terrace on a steep slope. It appears to be reasonably well constructed but of undressed stone and without triangular skew stones, again suggesting a barn or byre
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P14: A11, north gable end, view from south
Ardnagoine 12 ‘Farmhouse’
Historical Notes: occupied by Mathiesons. One of the eight houses improved by Frampton in the 1960s
Cartographic Evidence: this building is not shown on the 1st edition but is present on the 2nd edition Ordnance Survey map, giving a construction date of between 1875 and 1902
Description: At the time of survey, all modern extensions had been removed, leaving the original shell of the building but with window openings and doorway insets in both gables and the back, west wall, dating to 1960s improvements. The chimneys and roof height are original, indicating a standard 1½ storey croft house
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P 15. A12, front, east facing elevation, showing original chimneys and undisturbed stonework of upper level.
Ardnagoine 13
Historical Notes
No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
This appears as a roofed building on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey map, but unroofed on the 2nd edition. Both editions show the small rectangular enclosure to the east. The building is aligned NNE- SSW, with a small outshot to the west. The Admiralty chart of 1882 shows what is probably this building as a prominent landmark
Description
This building is located immediately west of a new access track to the shore. Some walling is visible, but this was covered in bracken at the time of survey and very difficult to interpret. It is likely that
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the walling represents the south end of a building already truncated by the track to the north. The rectangular enclosure is indistinct
P16. A13, view from north, sunken structure obscured by bracken
Ardnagoine 14
Historical Notes
Presumed to be a byre or barn associated with house A8 and an apparent croft boundary running NW-SE
Cartographic Evidence
This building is not shown on the 1st edition OS bit is on the 2nd . However, there is a marked difference in orientation between the OS map and the satellite image, the former showing the croft boundary and building aligned NW-SE while the satellite shows the same running E-W. 21
Description
Rough rubble construction, now overgrown with bracken. The east gable stands to full height and has a small window opening
P17. A14, view of east gable from north west
Ardnagoine 15
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Historical Notes
No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
A small, square structure is depicted on the 1875 1st edition but not on the 1905 2nd edition OS map. Too small to be a dwelling and also small for a byre, it is assumed to have been a small barn possibly demolished when the section of rubble walling, now visible defining the east boundary of improved ground, was built.
Description
Not located during this survey, but footings may be visible once bracken has died down
3.2 Schoolhouse
Historical Notes: Architect William Joass of Dingwall (who also designed Achduart and many other Lochbroom schools and schoolhouses. Opened on 4 February 1875 (Inverness Courier)
Alick Macleod:
‘There is a good schoolhouse on the Ardnangoine end of Tanera and not long before my own time there were 33 scholars. There is a dwelling-house (teacher's accommodation) attached to the schoolhouse...... I recall meeting an old man - Donald MacRae - many years ago, He lived at Strathpeffer and was a building contractor. It was he who had the contract of the interior carpenter work at the school. He remarked what a hard job it was carrying building material from the shore up the steep hill to the schoolhouse site. This was done in the only way it could have been done by carrying slates in creels on people's backs, while wood and pipes were carried on handbarrows.’
School closed for lack of pupils before 1914. Leased for use by pupils of Stowe School in 1930s. Occupied briefly by Frank Fraser Darling in 1939 :
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‘..an ugly, meagrely built place...the large draughty schoolroom...... we painted and papered and scrubbed, though we never managed to make the place look really nice. The woodwork was too poor for that, and there was an atmosphere about the house that we did not like much. There is no garden or fence round the place, just a very poor black moor scarred by turf cutting...The house has lain unused as a school since before the 1914 war, the registers of that period still lying in an outbuilding at the back....The story goes that the women of the island carried up the stone and lime for the job, their husbands being away at the fishing...Its shoddy doors let in the wind, the sashes rattled and the noise of wind everywhere was hell...’ (Island Farm, pp 72-73, 118)
This building is one of eight improved by Frampton in the 1960s
Cartographic Evidence
The school is not shown on the 1st edition OS map, surveyed in 1875 despite this being given as the construction date. The 2nd edition map shows the building, with a second detached building behind. The footprint of the smaller building is now occupied by a modern wooden shed.
Description
As the building was occupied at the time of survey, the interior was not investigated. The schoolroom presumably occupied the full width of the north end of the building, with the teacher’s accommodation in the south part. This is not to a standard design adopted by all the schools built by Joass in the 1870s, but the chimney stack rising from the front elevation can be seen in other examples
P18. Schoolhouse, view from north
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3.3 Quay area
This is the area bought from the Cromartie Estate in 1785, comprising ten Scots acres. It was probably the only area of the island permanently settled before this date. The two modern cottages built for salmon farm workers in the 1970s are within this area, but are not evaluated. A plan of the island, drawn up in 1785 to facilitate the sale of 10 acres to Morison and Mackenzie, portrays a group of buildings at the approximate location of the fishing station. These are annotated as ‘tenants’ houses’. Scale is given by the circular area on the upper left, taken to be the burial ground, which indicates that the square enclosure attached to these buildings is not the Irish park but a smaller enclosure, and it is unlikely that any of the buildings depicted on this plan are newly built elements of the fishing station. Quay 1
Historical Notes
No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
These two L-shaped buildings and square enclosure are depicted on the 1788 estate map of Tanera. To the north west is the circular burial ground and to the north and east a line which appears to be the same as the watercourse and dyke shown on the 1st edition OS map, marking also the break of slope and northern edge of arable ground. This places these buildings within what is now the Irish Park
Description
There is now no visible evidence for buildings at this location. The enclosed Irish Park has been intensively cultivated
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Quay 2
Historical Notes
Fraser Darling refers to the footings of buildings aligned along the foreshore below the east wall of the Irish Park:
‘the foundations of those rude and ancient dwellings at the sea’s edge, under the dyke of the Little Irish Park...’ (Island Farm p.53)
His informant, Murdo Macleod told a story of a Skyeman, MacCrimmon, who had been brought from Skye to work at the herring curing during the occupancy of Nicolson (c. 1810-1835) who lived where;
‘There were houses there once, though it’s not myself who remembers them. In the far one, under the rock, lived a MacCrimmon’
Also:
‘In another of those old black houses near MacCrimmon’s there lived a bachelor who was credited with the second sight...he..would see a cortege passing in the darkness on its way to the burial ground above the Irish Park’ (Island Farm p.55)
Cartographic Evidence
The earliest representation of a building at this location is the 1849 Admiralty chart, with an identical building shown in 1874. The 1st edition OS map shows a building in the same location but only the northern half is roofed. This building is depicted in two photographs dating to c.1921, when Tigh an Quay was still inhabited. It is a roofless ruin and clearly has a relationship to the east dykes of the Irish park, which dogleg at the building. It is, however, impossible to tell from these photographs whether the building was a barn, byre or dwelling.
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1921 photographs of Tigh an Quay and building Q2, in front of the boat pulled up onto the shore
Description
There is now no trace of any footings of earlier buildings here. The modern, 1960s, building occupies approximately the same location.
Quay 3: Tigh an Quay
The herring station buildings are treated in a separate report.
Quay 4
Historical Notes
There is plenty of documentary evidence for settlement of Tanera in the Early Modern period. The 1788 plan of the island shows no areas of settlement other than at Quay, and there must therefore have been extant buildings when this land was sold to MacKenzie and Morison in 1785. The 1784
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plan of the island indicates that these were tenants’ houses, abandoned when tenants were evicted to make way for the herring station.
Cartographic Evidence
These two buildings are depicted on the 1788 estate map, but not on any later maps. The west building appears to have a small square enclosure attached to the north.
Description
There is now no physical evidence for the eastern of the two buildings. It is probable that all stone was removed for the construction of dykes. The west building survives as overgrown rubble footing south of the drystone dyke at NB 9896 0730. It is listed in the Headland archaeological survey of 1998 as site no. 5 with the following description:
A drystone rectangular structure measuring 10m E-W by approximately 4.5m N-S. The south wall of the structure is built into the wall of the hill...... A north-south running internal division at 2.5m from the west end survives as a concentration of rubble. The remains of another possible wall are visible abutting the west end of the structure and running approximately 5.5m to the west.
In addition to the above description, a revetting wall appears to run east from the front of the building, possibly the edge of a terrace originally linking it to the eastern building.
P19. Q4, view from north west.
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3.4 Brae
This is the area of high ground between Quay to the north and Harbour to the south. It probably formed one croft, occupied by one family.
Brae 1: ‘Old Inn’
Historical Notes:
Occupied by the Maclean family, who were croft tenants of Brae from at least the 1840s. This is not the earliest building at Brae and therefore not the original inn as depicted on Admiralty charts. It is a new-build between 1875 and 1902. This is one of the eight houses refurbished by Frampton in the 1960s.
Cartographic Evidence
A building at this location is first depicted on the 2nd edition Ordnance Survey map, dating to 1902.
Description
An improved croft house, with dressed stone chimneys. 1960s improvements include the front and back dormer windows, porch, new roof tiles, window in east gable. Interior stone walling exposed by removal of lining appear to show in situ skews of a lower gable, indicating that the house was originally built as single-storey, possibly without flues. The house is unusual in its main aspect facing north for no obvious reason, other than perhaps to have a view over the quay area.
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P20. B1, view from east
P21. B1, interior face of west gable on second floor, showing skew stones of original lower gable.
This house is mentioned by Fraser Darling: ‘There was one among the trees, set with its face to the north’ and is the most likely candidate to be the one briefly tenanted by the Fraser Darlings before they moved into imported wooden cabins at Tigh an Quay:
It was our intention to rent and repair a very small cottage from our neighbour. There was the earth floor to be dug out and made ready for a wooden floor, the walls to be lined with matchboarding and the place partitioned into rooms. We did get more than half the floor out before it was time to leave..(Island Farm p 67)
..the little cottage on the hillside. The floor was in – almost – but no partitions and no lining so we had in effect one long room with an open fireplace at each end..(Island farm p.70)
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Brae 2
Historical Notes
Occupied by the Maclean family and possibly built in the 1850s, as the number of households increased in the 1861 census from one to three.
Cartographic Evidence
This building is depicted on the 1st edition OS map of 1875 as a small square roofed structure, to the south of an enclosed area of improved ground extending north to the track. The 2nd edition map however shows this as the NW compartment of what may have been a full-sized house aligned NW- SE. There is a small rectangular enclosure attached to the north, but the improved ground is no longer recorded. The modern satellite image shows one distinct square structure and an irregularly shaped enclosure to the NW.
Description
Walls of this building stand to full height at the SE gable and NE wall but are reduced at the NW end and with a major collapse on the SW wall. It is a small, approximately square structure, with the broad doorway placed at the west end of the NE-facing wall, which also has one small window opening. The gable retains concrete and tar from the roof structure, indicating usage in the latter part of the 20th century. The stone is quarried.
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P22. House B2, view from north east
Brae 3
Historical Notes
Occupied by the Maclean family from 1841 and probably earlier, through to at least 1901 and probably later. A building at this location and on this alignment is shown, marked ‘Inn’ on Admiralty charts including 1849 and 1874. There is no documentary evidence to support its function as an inn, but here are plenty of accounts of passing sailors and fishermen spending the night on the island, and an informal inn would have provided a useful service, strategically placed between the Quay and the Harbour . 32
Cartographic Evidence
This is most likely to be the ‘Inn’ on Admiralty charts of 1849 and 1875. The 1st edition OS map shows it as a small square roofed building, but by the 2nd edition map it is depicted as larger, aligned NE- SW. Footings of a building of two compartments aligned NE-SW are visible on recent satellite images.
Description
A long building, aligned NE-SW and much altered. The NE end is reduced to grassy banks while the central part has been divided by two drystone partition walls of a much higher quality than the rubble exterior walls and taken to be a late insertion reflecting 20th century use. The building would have had a narrow interior space, indicating an early date of construction.
P23. House B3, view from East showing rough rubble original walling.
3.5 Harbour/ Acarsaidh/ Garadheancal (‘Cabbage Patch’)
This group includes all buildings between Brae to the north west and Lochanach to the south east. The initial used is H for harbour to differentiate from Ardnagoine. The maximum number of households here in the 19th century was six, and four houses were still occupied in the 20th century. The four families in 1901 were Grant, Campbell, Campbell and Macleod and probably occupied H8, ‘Rosslyn’ H10, H16, ‘Fuchsia’ and H5 respectively. H13, ‘Port’ replaced H10 after 1902. The last house to be inhabited was probably H8, reoccupied by the Macleods when they returned in the 1930s.
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Harbour 1
Historical Notes
No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
This building is depicted on the 1st edition OS map as roofed, rectangular and aligned NE-SW. By the 2nd edition OS map in 1902 it is unroofed. The satellite image appears to show a rectangular structure aligned NW-SE
Description
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Not located during this survey, in thick vegetation.
Harbour 2
Historical Notes
No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
The 1st edition OS map shows one roofless building, aligned NW-SE, with a rectangular enclosure attached to the SW. This feature is not recorded on the 2nd edition map in 1902. The satellite image appears to show a section of walling in the correct location and alignment for the enclosure.
Description
Not located during this survey, in dense vegetation
Harbour 3
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Historical Notes
No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
The 1st edition OS map shows this as an L-shaped roofed building, its main alignment NNW-SSE, with a large rectangular enclosure attached to the west. The 2nd edition OS map shows this as unroofed, and only the main body of the building. This is not visible on satellite images.
Description
The building was located within dense bracken but was too overgrown for details to be observed.
P24. H3, north corner of building and part of the north west gable exterior, view from NW
Harbour 4
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Historical Notes
Presumed to be a byre for H5
Cartographic Evidence
This is not depicted on the 1st edition OS map but is present on the 2nd edition 1902, where it is shown as a roofed, square building. Satellite images show it as rectangular and two compartments
Description
Well-built drystone building of two compartments occupying a narrow terrace on a steep slope below H5. Now overgrown with rowan trees. Low, single storey gables stand to full height and there is a complete doorway. Interior features include a small storage nook in the west side of the shared gable.
P25. H4, well-built doorway in NW compartment, view from NE
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P26. H4, small storage nook in dividing gable NW face, view from NE
Harbour 5
Historical Notes
This has to be one of the four houses still occupied in the Harbour area in 1901, but this one was not improved by Frampton in the 1960s
Cartographic Evidence
This building is recorded on 1st edition OS map and 2nd edition as rectangular and roofed, aligned NW-SE. The 2nd edition map adds a well immediately to the west and a track leading to the house from Brae
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Description
Improved croft house, with some dressed stone and partly harled, two fireplaces and flues within the gables to chimneys of dressed stone. There is evidence for slight raising of wallhead and gables from single storey to storey and a half, concrete is still visible on skews. Two large window openings flanking the central door and a smaller window in the back wall opposite the door, all splayed. Attached extension byre/shed on the NW gable.
P27. H5, view from NW
P28. H5, interior face of SE gable P29. H5, interior face of NW gable
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Harbour 6
Historical Notes
No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
At this location the 1st edition OS map shows two small square roofed structures, aligned NE-SW with a small rectangular enclosure to the north, aligned NW-SE. These are not shown on the 2nd edition OS map and are presumed to have been demolished during the rebuilding of H7
Description
No trace on the ground
Harbour 7, ‘Generator Shed’
Historical Notes
No information at present. Modern use as generator shed.
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Cartographic Evidence
The 1st edition OS map shows a roofed building at this location, small and square and aligned NNE- SSW. It is attached to the north end of a section of croft boundary dyke. The 2nd edition map shows the building expanded to a rectangle, aligned NNW-SSE, as at present.
Description
Modern roofing on partially rebuilt rubble walling. The building divides into two compartments, with the generator to the east and woodstore to the west, new openings and vents have been inserted as needed. A broken quernstone was found being used in the walling during renovation work. It was removed but its present whereabouts are unknown.
P30. H7, generator shed. East gable end, view from SE
Harbour 8 ‘Rosslyn Cottage’
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Historical Notes
One of the four houses still occupied at Harbour in 1901, therefore one of the last to be abandoned by departing crofters in the 1920s. The dormer windows indicate that this was probably the most improved house at the beginning of the 20th century and may be the one re-occupied by MacLeod in the 1930s:
‘James MacLeod’s cottage had a small garden in front of it, bounded by young trees which he had planted for cover’ (Island Farm p.26)
This house is one of the eight cottages improved by Frampton in the 1960s
Cartographic Evidence
This house is shown on both the 1st and second edition OS map with a small byre extension on the west gable and a small square enclosure attached to the south. Satellite image shows garden enclosure to north
Description
Improved storey and a half croft house, white harled, with dressed stone chimneys in each gable and three pitched dormer windows probably dating to early 20th century. 1960s improvements include extension to east gable end and back , rubble porch and windows are more recent. Tidy drystone walls enclose garden areas to front and back.
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P31. H8, ‘Rosslyn’ view from NE
Harbour 9
Historical Notes
This small structure was probably a barn or byre for the croft attached to ‘Rosslyn Cottage’
Cartographic Evidence
Shown as a small rectangular roofed structure on the 1st and 2nd edition OS maps. There appears to be a similarly proportioned structure visible on satellite images bit possibly not in the correct location
Description
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Not located in dense vegetation.
Harbour 10
Historical Notes
As this house is shown as roofed on the 2nd edition OS map, and was obviously replaced by H13 later than this date, this is taken to have been one of the four houses at Harbour still occupied in the 1901 census
Cartographic Evidence
Depicted as a long roofed building, long axis oriented NNE-SSW on the 1st and 2nd edition OS maps
Description
What may be the lowest courses on the south and west walls of this building appear to have been incorporated into the drystone enclosure walls to the north of H13
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P32. H10, present enclosure walling taken to be over footings of removed house
Harbour 11
Historical Notes
The size of these buildings suggests byres or barns associated with the croft on which Port Cottage stands
Cartographic Evidence
Two small roofed buildings are shown on the 1st edition OS map. The same buildings are depicted on the 2nd edition map, but the east building is now unroofed. These are not visible on the satellite image.
Description 45
Low, overgrown rubble footings running approximately E-W are visible within the garden of Port cottage in approximately the right location for these buildings.
P33. H11, rubble footing running E-W, view from SW
Harbour 12
Historical Notes
Presumed to be a barn or byre
Cartographic Evidence
This small building is not shown on the 1st edition OS map but is on the 2nd edition, so was constructed between 1875 and 1902.
Description 46
No trace of this building was found.
Harbour 13 ‘Port Cottage’
Historical Notes
Built after 1902 and therefore replacing H10 as housing one of the last four families living at harbour
Cartographic Evidence
Not recorded on the 2nd edition OS map
Description
Croft house of one and a half storey, white harled. Aligned E-W and north-facing. Improvements in the 1960s include dormer windows, porch extension and extension on west gable, back extension, new roof slates.
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P34. H13, north-facing aspect, view from north.
Harbour 14
Historical Notes
No information at present. Dimensions of the building on old mapping do suggest a dwelling, but no longer occupied by 1901
Cartographic Evidence
This building is shown on the 1st edition OS map as a long roofed building, aligned NW-SE, large enough to be a dwelling. The same building is shown on the 2nd edition map, with the dyke defining the arable ground to the south extending NW towards the shore. The building and dyke are not parallel.
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Description
The present unroofed structure at this location is stands to full height, its only feature being a doorway centrally placed in the north wall. The stonework is of very loose construction and inconsistent with stonework of other buildings. It is too short to be the building shown on OS mapping and is interpreted as a 20th century rebuild.
P35. H14, modern building on site of old dwelling, view from north
Harbour 15
Historical Notes
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No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
Not shown on 1st or 2nd edition OS mapping, so built after 1902.
Description
Tidily built with dressed stone, pointed, with a roof of corrugated iron. One ventilation slit in the west gable. East end is open
P36. H15, view from north showing ventilation slit in NW gable
Harbour 16 ‘Fuchsia Cottage’
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Historical Notes
One of the last four cottages at Harbour to be occupied
Cartographic Evidence
There is no building at this location on the 1st edition OS map but it is shown on the 2nd edition, so was built between 1875 and 1902
Description
Typical croft house of a storey and a half, with chimneys of dressed stone, white harled frontage but bare stone gable, showing dressed stonework. Aligned NNE-SSW with main aspect facing west. Improvements in 1960s include dormer windows front and back, extensions on west, east and north sides, new slates.
P37. H16 ‘Fuchsia Cottage’, view from west Harbour 17
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Historical Notes
No information at present
Cartographic Evidence
This building is shown on the 1st edition OS map, close to the shore on the west side of an area of improved ground. By the 2nd edition it is no longer recorded.
Description
No trace of this building was found, presumed to have been completely demolished and stone re - used in building dykes of garden enclosure
3.6 Lochanach
The last area of the island to be settled, probably as a response to rising population in the 1850s. There are valuable areas of arable ground around the lochan. On the south shore are prominent mounds of rubble representing field clearance probably pre-dating the laying out of the crofts. Two areas of cultivation are shown on the 1784 estate map, but no buildings. Two families lived here from at least 1861, one family staying until the 1920s.
Lochanach area in 1784, from Cromartie estate map, showing two areas of arable ground
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Lochanach 1
Historical Notes
This is probably the house occupied by the Campbell family until the drowning of James Campbell , together with Dugald Matheson, in 1920. His mother, Barbara Campbell, is listed in the 1901 census as a hand-spinner. The house may have been only partially built in 1875
Cartographic Evidence
The 1st edition OS map shows a small, square roofed building at this location. By the 2nd edition it is rectangular, with the roofless remains of L2 attached to the east
Description
Croft house of one and a half storeys, roofless and the skew stones of the gables missing, possibly robbed. The house faces south east. It is grey harled apart from the north east gable, and the window and door openings have concrete surrounds. Some plasterwork survives on the upper level of the back, NW, wall. There are fireplaces in both gable ends. No timbers survive
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P38. L1, general view from north
P39. L1 Interior, window opening in north west wall and residual plaster above floor joist sockets Lochanach 2
Historical Notes
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This may have been the first building at Lochanach, occupied until completion of L1. The Macleods were here in 1861. Barbara Macleod married Kenneth Campbell, this branch of the family lived here until 1920.
Cartographic Evidence
The 1st edition OS map shows this as a small, square building with a large square enclosure attached to the east. By the 2nd edition map this building is roofless.
Description
Low rubble walling of a building attached to the north east gable of L1. It is narrower than L1 and not harled. The walls do not stand high enough to see any arrangement of window openings.
P40. L2, low rubble footings to left of main building, view from NW Lochanach 3
Historical Notes
No information at present. Part of the Campbell croft buildings
Cartographic Evidence
The 1st edition OS map shows a small, square roofless structure at this approximate location. It is not shown on the 2nd edition map, but is on modern mapping and can be discerned on satellite images.
Description
Low rubble walling of a square structure south west of the croft house
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P41. L3, small square structure in foreground
Lochanach 4
Historical Notes
No information at present, part of the Campbell croft buildings
Cartographic Evidence
A small square roofed building is depicted on the 1st edition OS map but not on the 2nd or on modern mapping.
Description
Not located in thick bracken
Lochanach 5
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Historical Notes
Occupied by the Macleod family from at least 1861 and still occupied in 1901. This was possibly constructed in its present form around 1875
Cartographic Evidence
The 1st edition OS map shows a small, square roofed building at this location, adjacent to what may be a second roofless structure or a small enclosure. By the 2nd edition OS map this is more rectangular, aligned NW-SE. Modern mapping shows a roofless structure divided into two compartments
Description
Low rubble walling of a single-storey building. The SE gable which stands to almost full height but with skew stones removed, the NW gable end is removed or collapsed. Attached and extending NW is a second compartment, roughly built which may represent an earlier building
P42. L5, view from SE of gable missing removed skew stones, main body of building behind
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P43. L5, extension NW of possible earlier building
Lochanach 6
Historical Notes
Part of the Macleod croft buildings
Cartographic Evidence
The 1st edition OS map shows one small square roofed building at this location. On the 2nd edition a rectangular building, aligned NE-SW is in the same approximate location.
Description
Low rubble footings of a small sub-square enclosure south of the main building and on higher ground. Extending south west from this is an attached rectangular structure, its dimensions correct for a pre-crofting dwelling. It is best-preserved at the SW end, with visible stonework but much of the walling survives only as low heather covered banks.
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P44. L6, low heather-covered banks crossing centre of image, with L5 behind
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4.0 Summary
4.1 Buildings History
Table 1. Summary of known dating of buildings
Present in 1785 Q1, Q3, Q4
Present on Admiralty Chart 1848 A8, Q2, Q3, B3, H10, H17, L5, L6
Abandoned before 1875 Q1, Q4, H2, L3
Occupied/roofed in 1875 A1, A3, A6, A7, A8, A9, A10, A13, B2, H5, H6, H9, H11, H14, L1, L2, L5, L6
Abandoned 1875-1902 A13, A15, H1, H3, H6, H16, L2, L4
Modified/improved 1875-1902 A1, A8, H7, L1, L5
New build 1875-1902 A4, A5, A11, A12, A14, Schoolhouse, B1, H4, H12, H16
Built after 1902 A2, H13, H15
Improved after 1960 A5, A12, Schoolhouse, B1, H7, H8, H13, H16
4.2 Buildings Type
Table 2. Summary of known building type
Pre-improvement, ie cruck frame, single storey, A1, A3, A6, A7, B2, B3, H2, H3, H10, H17, L2, L6 thatch roof
Improved, mostly standard one and a half A4, A5, A8, A9, A12, B1, H5, H8, H13, H16, L1, L5 storey, fireplace and chimney, slate roof and rooflights
Barn or byre A2, A10, A11, A14, H4, H9, H11, H12, H15, L3
Other Schoolhouse, Herring Station
Unknown, not enough physical evidence A13, A15, Q1, Q2, Q4, H1, H6, H7, H14, L4
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5.0 Conclusions and Recommendations
The Tanera Mor Restoration Project 2017 proposes the renovation of all the houses previously upgraded by Frampton in the 1960s: A5 ‘Murdo’s’, A12 ‘Farmhouse’, Schoolhouse, B1 ‘Old Inn’, H8 ‘Rosslyn Cottage’, H13 ‘Port Cottage, H16 ‘Fuchsia Cottage. These houses are now known to have been either new built or extensively rebuilt around 1875 or later. No recommendations are made for further preservation or investigation of these buildings.
It is also proposed to rebuild the ruined croft houses A1, A4, A8, A9, H4 (byre), H5, L1 and L2. This has implications for the archaeological and historical record of the island not only in the rebuilding of the ruins but also in the creation of infrastructure and access to service these buildings.
It is recommended that the building A1 be removed from plans to renovate. It is the only standing ruin to contain early features such as the cruck frame grooves, and shows the contrast in building styles between early and 1870s construction. These would be lost in even the most sensitive rebuild.
The character of the standing ruins abandoned in the 19th century in favour of improved housing would also be completely lost in any rebuild to fit modern building standards and living requirements. At present they stand as attractive memorials to the lives of the crofters. This is particularly the case for houses A8 and A9. The two buildings at Achalochan, L1 and L2 also testify to the struggle to gain a livelihood in a harsh environment, and the remoteness which has prevented their restoration during previous projects would be greatly altered by their development and the addition of services and access.
It is recommended that any of the standing ruins scheduled for rebuilding be recorded by an archaeological building survey and by archaeological investigation of surviving floor deposits and features.
Catherine Dagg, BA, ACIfA 10.12.17
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