A Diving Adventure Magazine

Featuring Turks & Caicos Aggressor II Florida’s Castor Wreck TDI’s Wreck Tech Training This publication is Inon 45-Degree Veiw Finder underwritten in part by: Manta Rays of Manihi Grand Cayman’s Dive Tek & Cobalt UNEXSO’s Dolphin Dive Issue 13 - 2009

Pg 1 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 CONTENTS Explore, Discover, Challnge Pg 4 Dive on the M/V Castor Pg 44 Dive Tek & Cobalt Coast Sometimes a great wreck dive Doug Ebersole gets in a little Editor - Walt Stearns with interseting marine life is no family time on Grand Cayman at email: [email protected] further than your own backyard: a rec to tech dive retreat. provided you live in South Florida. Associate Editor - Steve Lewis Assistant Editor - Karen Stearns Pg 49 Dive Log: UNEXSO’S Copy Editor - Brian Bienkowski Pg 11 Beyond the Basics: Dolphin Dive Experience Art Director - Cheri Craft Going Wreck Tech What’s it like to dive with a Webmasters - Margaret Chatham A TDI Advanced Wreck Diver dolphin almost all to yourself? Program prepares divers to better We show and tell all. Tony Isse handle the variables and reap the rewards of wreck exploration. Advertising - Ralph Viscusi Pg 53 Parting Shot: email: [email protected] What one photographer found Pg 18 Turks & Caicos Aggrressor II while night diving far offshore in Contributors Enjoying the good life on the Gulf Stream. Doug Ebersole board the Turks & Caicos Islands Phil Rudin premiere live-aboard. Lazaro Ruda Michael Salvarezza Pg 34 Inon 45-Degree Finder Christopher P. Weaver Hands on review of Inon’s 45-degree view finder, and what it could do to improve your Editorial Disclaimer: underwater housed system. The articles, positions and statements contained in this publication are not necessarily those of SDI™, TDI™ or ERDI™ its BOD, officers or employees. Opinions, Pg 39 Mantas of Manihi conclusions, and other information in this A look at a tiny corner of French publication are solely those of the Editor / ’s Tuamotu Archipelago, Writer and are neither given nor endorsed and the opportunities it provides by the agencies mentioned. Total editorial Aquafield Communications, LLC. for a fully natural dive experience. freedom and expression is solely retained and the responsibility of the Editors / Writers. The Underwater Journal is published by Aquafield Communications, LLC. All content in this publication is protected, copyright Cover - Karen Stearns enjoys a close encounter with a large reef shark in the © 2009. No use may be made of material waters off West Caicos, in the Turks & Caicos Islands. contained herein without written consent Image: Copyright © Walt Stearns 2009. Camera system - Nikon D300, Tokina from Aquafield Communications, LLC. 10-17mm lens in a Subal housing, Sea & Sea YS-250 strobes. Inquiries: [email protected]

Pg 2 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Travel/Adventure

any visitors to the islands of Tahiti and MFrench Polynesia are drawn to the indescribable beauty of Bora Bora’s fantastic lagoon, or to the more under-stated but equally stunning scenery of Manihi Tahiti’s neighboring island of Moorea. More adventurous explor- ers often find themselves on the funky island of Rangi- roa, where an expansive 25-kilometer-wide lagoon provides opportunities for amazing natural experienc- es. However, since consists of so many “Patience is the word of the islands and atolls, the most day here at The Circus.” interesting opportunities for exploration and adventures are often found in the most out of the way places. Manihi is just such a place.

story & photography by Michael Salvarezza & Christopher P. Weaver

Pg 39 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 UJ AquaCat Ad 0109 1/15/09 10:48 AM Page 1

A birds-eye view of Manihi Atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago

Tucked away nearly 480 kilome- ing ocean. The only village here is ters northeast of the main island Turipaoa, which is located on the of Tahiti, Manihi is part of the Tairapa Pass. You will not find any Play... Tuamotu Archipelago, a collec- banks on the island nor restrooms $ per Explore... tion of 69 atolls and islands sprin- at the airport. Manihi is truly an Learn... kled across an 1100-kilometer out-of-the-way place. 2295 week wide swath of the South Pacific Known primarily for its thriving Ocean. Although Manihi is serviced black-pearl farm business, Manihi 102 Feet of liveaboard luxury... leaving weekly from Nassau regularly with flights from Tahiti is home to some world-class to the unspoiled reefs and islands of the Exumas. and other islands, visitors arriving diving opportunities. Our diving here immediately notice the rustic on Manihi initially consisted of Diving, snorkeling, sea-kayaking, fishing, beach combing... nature of the island: a tiny, open air intriguing dives along the sloping Live THE dream! shack serves as the airport termi- reef outside the lagoon. Here, the nal and is only manned at certain hard coral reefs boast rainbows times of the day when an inbound of pastel colors brightly decorat- or outbound flight is expected. ing a wall that tumbles gently into Manihi is a large elongated coral the deep. Along this reef, divers atoll, consisting of a narrow strip of can find schools of snapper and 1-800-327-9600 land circling a wide lagoon with two grunt, along with emperor snapper www.aquacatcruises.com • [email protected] cuts or “passes” into the surround- and dozens of raccoon butterfly Pg 40 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 fish. Looking closely into the reef crevices, divers can often find lionfish hiding alongside squir- relfish and soldierfish. Green sea turtles are often seen cruising along the reefs, as are a variety of sharks: Manihi is home to both grey and blacktip reef sharks. Divers can general- ly count on these creatures to be patrolling the mixing grounds of the pass where the waters from the lagoon and sea converge. Here, where the visibility decreas- es dramatically as the murkier lagoon waters escape to the ocean, schools of jack and barra- among a random tumble of large cuda can often be found waiting boulders and rocks. The colorful for a quick meal. corals from the reefs outside the The reefs of Manihi are blessed lagoon were noticeably absent. with crystalline waters from the First impressions: not good! But surrounding Pacific and diving patience is the word of the day outside the lagoon is certainly a here at The Circus and the dive fabulous experience for any diver. guides had prepared us accord- But Manihi held one other ingly. So, we settled in among surprise for us…a magical dive the rocks and waited. site called The Circus. After only 5 minutes, they Leaving the dock as we did appeared from out of the gloom. every morning, we once again First, a fleeting shadow could be motored across the lagoon. But seen moving cautiously among instead of pushing forward into the murk. Then another shadowy the open ocean, our boat tender glimpse, and finally there it was… cut the engine and stopped short the delta wing of a large manta ray of the pass. Looking around all we sweeping past us like a jetfight- could see is puzzled faces and low er. Amazed, we stared with open murmurs from confused divers. eyes, while sucking down a few Without question, we heaved over extra pounds of air in excitement. Life of the reef in Manihi range from raccoon butterfly fish the side and descended nearly Soon we were surrounded! Manta (upper left), which often travel in schools to larger denizens like 18 meters into the hazy lagoon Rays were everywhere, circling, grey reef sharks (top) and blacktip reef sharks (bottom). water. Soon, we found ourselves dancing, sweeping, and flying all Pg 41 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 around us. Incredibly, they hardly took notice of the noisy bubble- blowing divers sprawled across the dive site. I guess you can say the mantas were busy with their own agenda. You see, The Circus is a manta cleaning station, and each morning, a dozen or more of these gentle giants converge at this rock-strewn location seeking relief from irritating parasites and dead itchy skin with the help of resident butterfly fish and cleaner wrasse. Manta Rays by nature are watch- ful and wary creatures. If divers make an effort to minimize their movements and refrain from Manta Rays by nature are harassing them with luck may get watchful and wary creatures. a rare and wonderful opportunity to interact with these magnificent animals up close and personal. to perform a slow backward-rolling enced by those willing to appreciate This dive site also features black- summersault, exposing its brilliant its natural beauty and appeal. Linger tip reef sharks in abundance, as white underbelly before disappear- here and you will forget there is a well as several resident moray eels. ing into the brume of the lagoon frantic, bustling world “out there.” If In today’s era of short attention waters. While we try not to attribute you come, make sure you get to The spans, divers who tire of mantas human behaviors to wild animals, it Circus…the mantas will be waiting. cavorting only a few feet from their was hard not to envision that this - MS & CP masks can turn their attention to ray, which had been playing in these these other inhabitants living in this waters for the better part of an hour, unique location. was not trying to find a way to say Our dive at The Circus conclud- “good bye” to its newfound friends. ed with an amazing encoun- As it disappeared, we simply waved ter. A sizeable ray, perhaps with a farewell and began our slow ascent wingspan exceeding 3.5 meters, to the surface. approached guardedly from a small Manihi is a treasure in the vast gully in the rocky substrate. With a open waters of the South Pacific. small remora in tow, the ray glided Much like the prized black pearls slowly towards us and at the very last that are cultivated in these waters, moment gracefully lifted its wings Manihi is to be savored and experi- Pg 42 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009 Getting There: The only international airport Weather: Manihi and the rest of the islands is located on the main island of Tahiti. It is in the Tuamotu Archipelago enjoy two distinct serviced with direct flights from Los Angeles, seasons: a Dry Season and a Humid Season. Hawaii, Paris, Auckland, Sydney, Tokyo, Osaka The Dry season runs from April through and Easter Island (Chile). Nui, Quantas, October, with July and August being the Air , Hawaiian AirLines, Lan Chile and Air coolest. This is the Austral winter and tempera- New Zealand all service French Polynesia. tures range from 24-28 degrees Celsius. In the For flights to Manihi, connect with Air Tahiti, Humid Season, between November and March, the domestic carrier within French Polynesia, more rain can be expected, along with higher which offers frequent service to all of the islands humidity. Temperatures can range from 26-28 of French Polynesia. degrees Celsius. French Polynesia’s climate is defined as marine tropical (hot temperatures Baggage: Baggage allowances vary for each tempered by the ocean). international carrier so check before you leave. For the domestic flights to Manihi, Air Tahiti Where to Stay imposes strict limitations on baggage: carry-on baggage may not exceed 3kg and standard class passengers are permitted 3 checked items not to Michael Salvarezza and Christopher P. exceed 10kg/. For passengers booked in the “Y” Weaver head Eco-PhotoExplorers.com boarding class, 20kg is permitted and passen- (EPE), a New York based organization gers in the “Z” boarding class can check 50kg. promoting interest in protecting our ocean Divers are permitted an extra 5kg by showing environment by creating awareness through their c-card at the time of check-in. the use of underwater photography. Travel Documents: A valid passport is required for entry. For visitors from Australia, no Visa is required for stays up to three months. Visitors from the USA and New Zealand require a Visa for stays over one month in duration. Manihi Pearl Beach Resort Currency: The currency used throughout Web: http://www.pearlresorts.com/ French Polynesia is the Franc of the “Compagnie manihipearlbeachresort/main.php Francaise du Pacifique” usually called the French Dive Operation Pacific Franc. It is abbreviated as XPF or CFP. Its Blue Nui Dive Center is located on the exchange rate with the Euro is fixed at 119.33 grounds of the Manihi Pearl Beach resort. Pacific Francs per 1 Euro. Tel: (689) 96.42.17, Cell 79.22.72 Electricity: Power voltage used in French Polyne- Web: http://bluenui.com/Ang/manihi_ang.htm sia is 220 Volts (60 Hz). Be sure to double-check your appliance’s compatibility before plugging them in. Converters / adaptors are usually avail- able upon request at your hotel front desk. www.NationalGeographicSnorkeler.com Pg 43 www.UnderwaterJournal.com Issue 13 - 2009