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Montpeyroux, whose name comes from ‘mont pierreux’, meaning ‘rocky hill’, is one of ’s best loved

Plus Villages IMAGE © ALAMY

The villages of AUVERGNE Wind your way south through the Auvergne where picturesque communities cluster conveniently close to the main road. Gillian Thornton took time out to explore ❯❯

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“PERCHED ON A HIGH LAVA FLOW ABOVE THE GORGES OF THE RIVER MONNE, THE VILLAGE IS DOMINATED BY A WHITE SANDSTONE BASILICA”

season. Not so Charroux. Temptation abounds from artisan sweets and chocolates, to antiques, saffron, and interior design items. Stop off at Les Bougies de Charroux, a half-timbered shop selling handmade fragranced candles, for a real scent of the Auvergne. Fired up by the charm of Charroux, I study the map of my planned meander southwards and discover there are several more enchanting villages along my route, as well as two delightful small towns, both listed amongst Michelin’s 100 Plus Beaux Détours de France. So with time on my side, I decide to take some time out and investigate what they have to offer. South of Charroux, the A71 takes a straight course to Clermont-Ferrand, regional capital of the Auvergne, which is well-worth a stopover if time permits. South of Clermont, the A71 morphs into the A75 and a short detour west brings me to Saint-Saturnin in Puy-de-Dôme, home to one of eight outstanding churches on Auvergne’s Romanesque Route. Perched on a high lava flow above the gorges of the river Monne, the village is dominated by the octagonal tower of a white sandstone basilica dedicated to the first Bishop of , martyred in the third century AD. Once my eyes become accustomed to the dim light, I notice shades of red, grey and cream in ❯❯

Clockwise from above ith its dramatic volcanic left: There’s lots to do in a process for the faint-hearted, with only around one in scenery, vast skies, and beautiful Charroux; inset, five applicants making the grade. tumbling rivers, the Auvergne the Romanesque Cloister at In Charroux – the only Plus Beau Village to be found ; the pretty stone attracts walkers, kayakers and cottages of Charroux; Cour in the département – I park beside stone lovers of adrenaline sports from des Dames; basalt columns cottages covered in climbing roses before refuelling all over Europe. But there’s at Usson; the Saint-Julien with coffee and pâtisserie at a tiny tearoom on one of Basilica at ; Saint- Wanother side to this rural and undulating region: small Julien’s stunningly ornate the picturesque lanes. Located at the crossroads of towns and enchanting villages nestle in hidden valleys cobbled pavement; the Roman roads and fortified under the Bourbon dukes, and on verdant slopes, sometimes out of sight, but basilica’s magnificent interior Charroux flourished in the Renaissance thanks to an often within easy reach of the main throughways. advantageous trading charter, its vibrant tannery Heading south-east from the western Channel ports industry and an abundance of vineyards. to the Rhône Valley on a summer’s day, my Auvergne adventure is prompted by a familiar sign that always SMALL BUT PERFECT tempts me to make a detour: just off the A71 north of Despite a fire during the Wars of Religion, many fine Gannat, I spot the logo for Plus Beaux Villages de buildings remain today, including the 12th-century France alongside a signpost to Charroux. church of St John the Baptist. I pick up a free leaflet Plus Beaux Villages all differ in character and showing the points of interest, amongst them a facilities, but can always be relied upon to deliver an medieval city gate, a 17th-century bell tower and authentic capsule of local life, history and architecture. 19th-century covered market. Most interesting of all is Membership of this elite band isn’t for life – members the Cour des Dames, a circular meeting place in the are re-evaluated roughly every six years – but there are heart of the village where women would gather to chat currently 158 accredited communities across France. and men would gather to chat them up! To stand any chance of selection, a village must have I am also struck by the wealth of craft workshops a population of less than 2,000; at least two protected and specialist boutiques, because if I could level any sites or monuments; and support for the application criticism at the excellent Plus Beaux Villages concept, through a vote by the Municipal Council. A detailed it is only that some villages – especially in rural areas

IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON, AUVERGNE-RHÔNE-ALPES TOURISME, ARNAUD FRICH ARNAUD TOURISME, AUVERGNE-RHÔNE-ALPES THORNTON, © GILLIAN IMAGES application is then assessed against 27 criteria. It’s not – have few amenities to offer to visitors outside peak

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Marguerite de Valois liked Usson so much “HERE AT USSON, ‘LA REINE MARGOT’ she stayed, even after her imprisonment ESTABLISHED HER OWN COURT, INVITING at the hands of her ARTISTS, WRITERS AND MUSICIANS, AND NO brother had ended IMAGE © ALAMY SHORTAGE OF ELIGIBLE LOVERS”

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OUT AND ABOUT IN CLERMONT-FERRAND Gateway to the Massif Central and Wander amongst elegant mansions from the strategically situated in the centre of France, Renaissance and the Age of Enlightenment; visit the historic capital of Auvergne makes a good the UNESCO-listed Romanesque basilica; and base for exploring the villages. admire no fewer than 50 fountains. Originally it was two separate towns. On And no visit to Clermont-Ferrand would be the top of the hill, Clermont grew up around complete without a visit to L’Aventure Michelin, the Gothic cathedral of volcanic lava, whilst on the flagship attraction for the city’s most the Limagne plain below, the medieval town famous commercial enterprise. of Montferrand was founded by the Counts of At 1,465 metres tall, Puy-de-Dôme is an Auvergne. www.clermont-fd.com impressive backdrop to the city; hike it, bike it, The building material may be sombre but or jump off it in a tandem paraglide experience. Clermont-Ferrand today is dotted with green www.puydedome.com. parks and bisected by the Allier. Relax in the And to find out more about the volcanic shade beneath the trees of the Jardin Lecoq landscape of Auvergne, enjoy a full-on botanical park; take in the city views from Parc immersive experience for all the family at Bargoin; and browse the boutiques in car-free Vulcania, the European Park of Volcanism on Place de Jaude. the outskirts of the city.

Above: Stop off in Saint-Saturnin in Puy-de-Dôme, which is home to one of eight outstanding churches on Auvergne’s Romanesque Route

the huge building blocks that make up the pillars, as AD PAGE well as 15th-century wall paintings. Just across a small square behind iron gates, a long drive leads to an imposing castle, founded in the 13th century and embellished during the Renaissance. Queen Catherine de’ Medici stayed here in 1566 to be followed 20 years later by her daughter, Marguerite de Valois, of whom more later. You can take a tour of the interior during the summer months or even book to stay in one of the guest rooms.

RICH IN HISTORY Saint-Saturnin is a delightful place for a stroll. Just follow the brown information panels for a 30-minute walking tour, which winds through narrow alleys and small squares, past terraces, fountains and wash houses. Yellow, red and blue logos indicate whether the panels represent heritage sites, religion or water, and street names reveal the trades that once went on here, including butchery and a farrier. Just 19km from Saint-Saturnin, I turn off the A75 to the east to visit the Plus Beau Village of Montpeyroux. I’d happily buy a property here just for the view across the valley to the volcanic peaks. On a clear June morning, the Puy de Sancy, the highest peak in the Massif Central, is clearly visible, still streaked with snow. And I can spy the Puy-de-Dôme too, at the heart of the Chaîne des Puys, which is classified amongst the select band of Grands Sites de France. Montpeyroux – from ‘mont pierreux’ or ‘rocky hill’ – is clearly one of the most popular of Plus Beaux Villages, visitors being required to leave vehicles at a Clockwise from top: Clermont-Ferrand was originally two separate towns; the impressive Place de Jaude car park beside a children’s farm and play area outside is worth exploring; the cathedral overlooking the tree-lined Place de la Victoire; soothe your soul and your

IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON, HEMIS, LUC OLIVIER, CAT LUC OLIVIER, HEMIS, THORNTON, © GILLIAN IMAGES the village. Pass through the Tourist Office to ❯❯ senses with a trip to Thermes de spa

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“SAINT-AUSTREMOINE IS A REAL EYE-OPENER, WITH ITS LAVISHLY DECORATED EXTERIOR… BUT WAIT TILL YOU GET INSIDE”

AD PAGE pick up the free booklet detailing the history and decorated exterior, inlaid with stones and adorned with highlights, as well as the resident artisans, many of interlaced designs. But wait till you get inside. whom open to visitors throughout the year. With the exception of the crypt, the interior walls There was a priory here as far back as 1095, followed and pillars received a neo-medieval makeover in the by a château in the 13th century, of which only the 19th century, when they were painted in bright colours tower remains. But the village that grew up around the and bold patterns. And whilst liberties were almost castle is a delight with its golden stone houses, fortified certainly taken with the designs and shades, they do medieval gateway and quiet courtyards, plus, of course, conjure up the atmosphere and colour of medieval those fabulous views. There’s a wedding going on as I churches to great effect. pass the Church of Notre-Dame and it’s hard to imagine a prettier place to take your vows. ROYAL ROOTS Clockwise from top: The Another 15km on and my route takes me through Ten kilometres east of Issoire, I stop to explore Usson, Abbatiale Saint-Austremoine at Issoire, too big to be a Plus Beau Village but selected another Plus Beau Village, which boasts the remains of Issoire dates back to the 11th century; wedding guests mingle by Michelin as one of its 100 Plus Beaux Détours in triple fortifications, substantial winemakers’ houses, in Montpeyroux; it’s easy to see France. The former Benedictine abbey church of and a once-important castle, destroyed by royal why Montpeyroux is one of Saint-Austremoine is a real eye-opener, with its lavishly command in the 17th century. Between 1586 and 1605, France’s Plus Beaux Villages the village was the enforced home of Marguerite de Valois, daughter of Catherine de’ Medici and feisty young wife of Henri III of who was crowned Henri IV of France in 1589. Marguerite was Roman Catholic while Henri was Protestant, but far from drawing the two religions together, their marriage in 1572 saw the newly-weds quickly embroiled in the French Wars of Religion. The couple separated four years later. Then in 1586, plots and counter-plots resulted in Marguerite’s brother, Henri III of France, imprisoning her in the castle at Usson, where she stayed for 18 years. Here ‘La Reine Margot’ established her own court, inviting artists, writers and musicians, and – according to popular belief – no shortage of eligible lovers, as

well as carrying out many charitable works. Make ❯❯ IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON TOURISME, AUVERGNE-RHÔNE-ALPES

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For more 12 MUST-SEE TOWNS AND VILLAGES beautiful villages Our choice of must-see villages and towns in Auvergne in Auvergne go to www.lesplusbeaux villagesdefrance. org

CHARROUX SAINT-SATURNIN MONTPEYROUX The only Plus Beau Village in Allier, One of four Plus Beaux Villages in A maze of winding streets with a This Plus Beau Village in Puy-de- it is famous for its mustard, which is Haute-, it grew up around a hilltop church, its substantial château Dôme was built from the local used by many top chefs and exported 9th century Benedictine abbey. The was once visited by Renaissance arkose sandstone in shades of ochre abroad. It also boasts a museum of keep, towers and ramparts remain royalty and is now a guesthouse. and blond and its many fine houses local history, festivals throughout the from the medieval castle, as well as Nearby Chadrat is a former wine- belonged to wealthy winemakers. year, a bustling Christmas market and half-timbered houses and sculpted growing hamlet with ochre stone There’s a panoramic view from the many interesting shops. doorways. houses, red roofs and fountains. platform on top of the keep. www.valdesioule.com www.tourismeblesle.fr www.saint-saturnin63.fr www.issoire-tourisme.com

up your own mind by following the information panels “WANDER THE HISTORIC on the Salamander Trail (1.5km), a symbol adopted by her grandfather François I, first of the Valois dynasty. STREETS AND DROP IN AT The Circuit des Remparts (2.4km) skirts the hill above THE LACE WORKSHOPS AND the village and passes an impressive set of typical Auvergnat ‘organ’ columns formed by solidified basalt. BOUTIQUE OF THE HÔTEL DE South of Usson, I leave the A75 to veer east towards LA DENTELLE” Le Puy-en-Velay, starting point for one of the four main ISSOIRE USSON BRIOUDE LAVAUDIEU French routes to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Situated at the confluence of the The second of Puy-de-Dôme’s two The highlight of this small town of The foundation of a Benedictine abbey But first, Brioude – another of Michelin’s 100 Plus patterns of the floor, created from pebbles smoothed Allier and the Couze Pavin rivers, 25 Plus Beaux Villages, Usson is situated 7,000 inhabitants in the Allier valleyis in the Middle Ages turned the valley of Beaux Détours, on the banks of the Allier. Here you by the waters of the Allier. The basilica also boasts 37 minutes south of Clermont-Ferrand on a volcanic summit in the Livradois- Basilica Saint-Julien with its multi- the into ‘La Vallée de Dieu’, can visit the family-friendly Maison du Saumon et de la contemporary stained-glass windows designed by and with 15,000 inhabitants, check Forez Regional Nature Park. La Reine coloured stones and wall paintings, from which the village takes its name. Rivière to meet 40 species of fish, wander the historic Korean monk and artist Kim En Joong and produced out Saint-Austremoine Romanesque Margot was exiled for 19 years to but also be sure to explore the It’s the best known of the quartet of From top: Lavaudieu is one church the Saturday morning market the château, which was subsequently surrounding streets fringed with fine Plus Beaux Villages in Haute-Loire and of France’s most popular Plus streets, and drop in at the lace workshops and by the Atelier Loire in Chartres. and Hauterive Castle. destroyed by Richelieu. houses of different periods. well worth a visit. Beaux Villages; Usson is brimming boutique of the Hôtel de la Dentelle. www.issoire-tourisme.com www.issoire-tourisme.com www.ot-brioude.fr www.abbayedelavaudieu.fr with history; the splendid view But above all, don’t miss the Basilica of Saint-Julien, RURAL IDYLL over picturesque Usson dedicated to a Roman soldier martyred for converting Last stop on my amble through Auvergne is a welcome to Christianity. The largest Romanesque church in the return to Lavaudieu, another of the most popular Plus Auvergne, it’s extraordinary – not just for the Biblical Beaux Villages, this time with a convenient car park frescoes in vibrant colours, but also for the russet and beside the Senouire river. Stone cottages with bijou ochre shades of its stone pillars and the geometric kitchen gardens cling to the terraces below the 11th-century hilltop abbey, founded here in this tranquil valley to offer a suitably genteel existence to a community of Benedictine nuns. A cobbled lane winds up to a broad main street, the bijou church of Saint-André with yet more wall paintings, plus the Auvergne’s only Romanesque , HAUTE-LOIRE PRADELLES, HAUTE-LOIRE SALERS, CANTAL TOURNEMIRE, CANTAL cloister. All of them are well worth a look. Prepare to be dazzled by your A Plus Beau Village in the breath- At an altitude of 950m in the Volcans Typical Cantal architecture abounds Also, be sure to drop down to the river bank for a dramatic first view of this Plus Beau taking Allier gorges, Pradelles is on d’Auvergne Regional Nature Park, this in the 14th- and 15th-century houses different perspective on those tumbling terraces. But Village from a bend in the road. The the ancient trade route to Languedoc 16th-century Plus Beau Village is all of this Plus Beau Village, which grew before you do, make time simply to drink up the ruined castle on a volcanic outcrop as well as the pilgrims’ route from Le turreted houses and grand mansions up beside the magnificent Château atmosphere over a glass of something cold at a café stands tucked in a bend of the Loire Puy-en-Velay. Close to the border with built from volcanic rock. Five 17th- d’Anjony, which, with its handsome table... and pause to reflect that the thing all of and is the closest castle to the source Ardèche, it also marks the start of the century Aubusson tapestries can be square courtyard and four towers, is a Auvergne’s many man-made gems have in common on Mont Gerbier du Jonc. 15km vélo-rail route. found in the church of Saint-Mathieu. classified monument historique.

FT PÈRE IGOR JULIOFSANGUINO, THORNTON, GILLIAN © SHUTTERSTOCK, IMAGES is that each and every one is unique. IMAGES © TOURISME AUVERGNE-RHÔNE-ALPES www.gorges-allier.com www.gorges-allier.com www.salers-tourisme.fr www.salers-tourisme.fr ❯❯

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WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN AUVERGNE As well as its beautiful villages and historic towns, there’s an abundance of nature and family fun to tempt you For more things to do in Auvergne go to www. auvergnerhonealpes- tourisme.com

AD PAGE Saint-Ours-les-Roches in the heart of the Chaîne des Puys is a wonderful place to explore on foot, and don’t forget to visit the Vulcania theme park nearby

GREAT OUTDOORS Association’s handbook, Les Plus For volcanic scenery, bijou communities Beaux Villages de France, published by and a wealth of outdoor activities Flammarion, £16.95. head to the Allier Gorges south of Brioude – and Lavoûte-, LOCAL LIFE , Prades and Monistrol. Get up close and personal with Tourist offices can advise on companies young salmon at the Conservatoire offering climbing and canoeing, fishing, National du Saumon Sauvage pony trekking and guided walks. at Chanteuges in the Allier. Atlantic www.gorges-allier.com salmon which are born here, 1000km In the Senouire Valley, east of from the ocean, swim 5,000km to Brioude and Lauvaudieu, the château Greenland where they mature before Ferme de la Moulerette offers a chance to of Chavaniac-Lafayette near returning to their birthplace to breed. get up close and personal with the animals , is the birthplace of military www.cnss.fr hero the Marquis de La Fayette. Visit Discover the legend of a giant wolf FAMILY FRIENDLY In Clermont-Ferrand, L’Aventure on Wednesday afternoons in July and Grab your guide book and set off on a which terrorised the area between August for a 90-minute guided tour by tour of the area’s Plus Beaux Villages 1764 and 1767, killing more than 100 Michelin has something for all ages professional costumed actors, booking people. The story is played out at the from historic cars to interactive games. essential. www.chateau-lafayette.com To really make the most of the Puy- Musée Fantastique de la Bête du And of course lots of tyres! laventure. For open-air activities and more in the de-Dôme and its magnificent volcanic Gévaudan in Sauges near Monistrol michelin.com. Haute Loire département, visit landscape, snap up a three-day Terra d’Allier, open June to September. Close by at Saint-Ours-les-Roches, www.auvergnevacances.com. Volcana pass, which covers 14 www.musee-bete-gevaudan.com Vulcania is an immersive theme must-see sites and activities, as well as park at the heart of the Chaîne des a host of discounts at restaurants and Puys volcanoes, showcasing not just amusements. It costs €26 from the local geology but volcanoes across Tourist Offices of Châtel-Guyon, Riom the world. Expect 5-D and giant and Volvic. For more info and other screen films, special effects, scientific travel tips, visit www.terravolcana.com. workshops and a wide variety of explosive experiences. Open March 25 VILLAGE EXPLORATION to November 1. www.vulcania.com Plot your route from one beautiful Ferme de la Moulerette village to another with the help of children’s farm at Montpeyroux Michelin’s map to Les Plus Beaux has farm animals a picnic area and

Tired of walking? Why not take in the Villages de France (€6.95) and Immerse yourself in exhibitions and games. www.ferme-pedagogique-

dramatic scenery by canoe instead? with the 2020 English edition of the recontructions at L’Aventure Michelin lamoulerette.fr ❯❯ FERME DE LA MOULERETTE MICHELIN, L’AVENTURE FROBERT, DAVID TERRA-VOLCANA, TOURISME OFFICE © SHUTTERSTOCK, IMAGES

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WHERE TO STAY AND EAT IN AUVERGNE For more hotels and restaurants, visit Our choice of hotels and restaurants to enjoy during your trip in this beautiful département www.francetoday. com/food-and- drink-france HOTELS L’Ermitage Saint- 4* Hôtel Littéraire Alexandre Vincent, Vielle-Brioude Vialatte, Clermont-Ferrand Five spacious rooms in restored 11th- Best Western Plus hotel with 62 century monastery. Vineyard garden, rooms in a shady square which was courtyard, and paths beside the Allier. adored by local author Vialatte, after Table d’hôte dinner by reservation. whom it is named. Volcano views www.ermitage-saintvincent.fr from sixth floor terrace; lounge bar; underground parking. RESTAURANTS www.hotelvialatte.com Pavillon Lamartine, Clermont-Ferrand 3* Royal Hotel Saint Mart, Hidden courtyard of a 19th-century Royat-Chamalières building in the town centre, with Elegant hotel with 54 bedrooms and terrace tables, a 1950s bar and large gardens, 10 minutes from centre understated interior dining room. of Clermont-Ferrand. Seasonal menus prepared by chef Le Clos des Campanules in Brioude is both charming and has an English-speaking owner www.hotel-auvergne.com Adrien Martin. www.pavillonlamartine.com Domaine St Roch, Le Clos des Campanules, L’Auberge de Margot, Usson Hilltop hotel with outdoor pool and Brioude Four-bedroom hotel with outdoor L’En-But, Clermont-Ferrand wellness spa 15km from Brioude. Three bright modern rooms with terrace beneath the ruined castle with Gastronomic restaurant within the Restaurant with panoramic views. possibility of suites for families or restaurant awarded two cooking pots Stade Marcel-Michelin with rugby www.hotel-auvergne-saintroch.com friends. Owner Michèle speaks fluent by Logis for authentic regional cuisine. pitch views from the tables and English. Drying room for hiking or www.auberge-margot.com Chaîne des Puys from the terrace. CHAMBRES D’HÔTES biking gear. Picnic lunches to order. www.lenbut.com La Tour Grégoire, www.closdescampanules.com Clermont-Ferrand Le Bistrot d’Ici, Saint-Saturnin Four large rooms, each on a separate La Maison des Archers, Bar, restaurant and tearoom on square floor of a tall property located on Saint-Saturnin beneath historic village. Guide Routard a quiet street in the historic centre, Three bedrooms behind a 15th- 2019 and Guide Vert Michelin. It offers just 200 metres from the Cathedral. century façade where Queen Margot’s a plat du jour and fixed menus on Restored in 2017. squire is reputed to have stayed. Spiral weekdays and weekends. www.latourdegregoire.com stone staircase. Wide roof terrace with https://lebistrotdici.fr/#top views of town and distant mountains. L’Auberge de Margot serves up authentic and award-winning regional cuisine www.lamaisondesarchers.com

3* L’Hôtel de la Poste, Brioude Château de Saint-Saturnin, Entirely renovated in 2016, it has 16 Saint-Saturnin modern bedrooms and a popular Historic monument with five luxury restaurant in an adjacent street serving guest rooms named after historic traditional Auvergnat cuisine. figures associated with the property, www.hotel-de-la-poste-brioude.com overlooking main courtyard, extensive La Maison du Prince de Condé has a royal grounds, or village. past and offers table d’hôte L’En But in Clermont-Ferrand has views Hôtel-Restaurant Le Haut-Allier, www.chateaudesaintsaturnin.com over the volcanoes and the rugby pitch La Maison du Prince de Condé, Close to Le-Puy-en-Velay, 12 simple, Charroux contemporary bedrooms plus House dating from 13th to 18th AUVERGNE ESSENTIALS restaurant with one Michelin star and centuries with enclosed garden within GETTING THERE 3 Gault Millau chef’s hats for Maître former moat. Named after Louis BY PLANE Restaurateur Philippe Brun. 1 of Bourbon, uncle of future king Fly to www.clermont-aeroport.com/ www.hotel-lehautallier.com Henri IV, who stayed here in 1568. en or to Lyon, two hours by road Five bedrooms; table d’hôte dinner from Clermont-Ferrand. available by reservation. www.maison-conde.com BY TRAIN Three hours to Clermont- Auvergne Le Relais de l’Orient, Charroux Ferrand direct. 18th-century property with pigeon house, interior courtyard, large TOURIST INFORMATION swimming pool and garden, plus www.auvergnerhonealpes-tourisme. panoramic terrace. Close to the village com centre. Seasonal table d’hote dinners www.lesplusbeauxvillagesdefrance.org Le Haut-Allier in Alleyras boasts Michelin- available by reservation.

star dining relais-orient.charroux.com BUT L’EN LA MAISON DU PRINCE DE CONDÉ, DE MARGOT, L’AUBERGE © LE CLOS DES CAMPANULES, IMAGES

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