GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ AUVERGNE AUVERGNEAUVERGNE ❘ ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS Montpeyroux, whose name comes from ‘mont pierreux’, meaning ‘rocky hill’, is one of France’s best loved Plus Beaux Villages IMAGE © ALAMY The villages of AUVERGNE Wind your way south through the Auvergne where picturesque communities cluster conveniently close to the main road. Gillian Thornton took time out to explore ❯❯ 32 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Oct/Nov 2020 Oct/Nov 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 33 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ AUVERGNE AUVERGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS “PERCHED ON A HIGH LAVA FLOW ABOVE THE GORGES OF THE RIVER MONNE, THE VILLAGE IS DOMINATED BY A WHITE SANDSTONE BASILICA” season. Not so Charroux. Temptation abounds from artisan sweets and chocolates, to antiques, saffron, and interior design items. Stop off at Les Bougies de Charroux, a half-timbered shop selling handmade fragranced candles, for a real scent of the Auvergne. Fired up by the charm of Charroux, I study the map of my planned meander southwards and discover there are several more enchanting villages along my route, as well as two delightful small towns, both listed amongst Michelin’s 100 Plus Beaux Détours de France. So with time on my side, I decide to take some time out and investigate what they have to offer. South of Charroux, the A71 takes a straight course to Clermont-Ferrand, regional capital of the Auvergne, which is well-worth a stopover if time permits. South of Clermont, the A71 morphs into the A75 and a short detour west brings me to Saint-Saturnin in Puy-de-Dôme, home to one of eight outstanding churches on Auvergne’s Romanesque Route. Perched on a high lava flow above the gorges of the river Monne, the village is dominated by the octagonal tower of a white sandstone basilica dedicated to the first Bishop of Toulouse, martyred in the third century AD. Once my eyes become accustomed to the dim light, I notice shades of red, grey and cream in ❯❯ Clockwise from above ith its dramatic volcanic left: There’s lots to do in a process for the faint-hearted, with only around one in scenery, vast skies, and beautiful Charroux; inset, five applicants making the grade. tumbling rivers, the Auvergne the Romanesque Cloister at In Charroux – the only Plus Beau Village to be found Lavaudieu; the pretty stone attracts walkers, kayakers and cottages of Charroux; Cour in the Allier département – I park beside stone lovers of adrenaline sports from des Dames; basalt columns cottages covered in climbing roses before refuelling all over Europe. But there’s at Usson; the Saint-Julien with coffee and pâtisserie at a tiny tearoom on one of Basilica at Brioude; Saint- Wanother side to this rural and undulating region: small Julien’s stunningly ornate the picturesque lanes. Located at the crossroads of towns and enchanting villages nestle in hidden valleys cobbled pavement; the Roman roads and fortified under the Bourbon dukes, and on verdant slopes, sometimes out of sight, but basilica’s magnificent interior Charroux flourished in the Renaissance thanks to an often within easy reach of the main throughways. advantageous trading charter, its vibrant tannery Heading south-east from the western Channel ports industry and an abundance of vineyards. to the Rhône Valley on a summer’s day, my Auvergne adventure is prompted by a familiar sign that always SMALL BUT PERFECT tempts me to make a detour: just off the A71 north of Despite a fire during the Wars of Religion, many fine Gannat, I spot the logo for Plus Beaux Villages de buildings remain today, including the 12th-century France alongside a signpost to Charroux. church of St John the Baptist. I pick up a free leaflet Plus Beaux Villages all differ in character and showing the points of interest, amongst them a facilities, but can always be relied upon to deliver an medieval city gate, a 17th-century bell tower and authentic capsule of local life, history and architecture. 19th-century covered market. Most interesting of all is Membership of this elite band isn’t for life – members the Cour des Dames, a circular meeting place in the are re-evaluated roughly every six years – but there are heart of the village where women would gather to chat currently 158 accredited communities across France. and men would gather to chat them up! To stand any chance of selection, a village must have I am also struck by the wealth of craft workshops a population of less than 2,000; at least two protected and specialist boutiques, because if I could level any sites or monuments; and support for the application criticism at the excellent Plus Beaux Villages concept, through a vote by the Municipal Council. A detailed it is only that some villages – especially in rural areas IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON, AUVERGNE-RHÔNE-ALPES TOURISME, ARNAUD FRICH ARNAUD TOURISME, AUVERGNE-RHÔNE-ALPES THORNTON, © GILLIAN IMAGES application is then assessed against 27 criteria. It’s not – have few amenities to offer to visitors outside peak 34 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Oct/Nov 2020 Oct/Nov 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 35 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ AUVERGNE AUVERGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS Marguerite de Valois liked Usson so much “HERE AT USSON, ‘LA REINE MARGOT’ she stayed, even after her imprisonment ESTABLISHED HER OWN COURT, INVITING at the hands of her ARTISTS, WRITERS AND MUSICIANS, AND NO brother had ended IMAGE © ALAMY SHORTAGE OF ELIGIBLE LOVERS” 36 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Oct/Nov 2020 Oct/Nov 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 37 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ AUVERGNE AUVERGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS OUT AND ABOUT IN CLERMONT-FERRAND Gateway to the Massif Central and Wander amongst elegant mansions from the strategically situated in the centre of France, Renaissance and the Age of Enlightenment; visit the historic capital of Auvergne makes a good the UNESCO-listed Romanesque basilica; and base for exploring the villages. admire no fewer than 50 fountains. Originally it was two separate towns. On And no visit to Clermont-Ferrand would be the top of the hill, Clermont grew up around complete without a visit to L’Aventure Michelin, the Gothic cathedral of volcanic lava, whilst on the flagship attraction for the city’s most the Limagne plain below, the medieval town famous commercial enterprise. of Montferrand was founded by the Counts of At 1,465 metres tall, Puy-de-Dôme is an Auvergne. www.clermont-fd.com impressive backdrop to the city; hike it, bike it, The building material may be sombre but or jump off it in a tandem paraglide experience. Clermont-Ferrand today is dotted with green www.puydedome.com. parks and bisected by the Allier. Relax in the And to find out more about the volcanic shade beneath the trees of the Jardin Lecoq landscape of Auvergne, enjoy a full-on botanical park; take in the city views from Parc immersive experience for all the family at Bargoin; and browse the boutiques in car-free Vulcania, the European Park of Volcanism on Place de Jaude. the outskirts of the city. Above: Stop off in Saint-Saturnin in Puy-de-Dôme, which is home to one of eight outstanding churches on Auvergne’s Romanesque Route the huge building blocks that make up the pillars, as AD PAGE well as 15th-century wall paintings. Just across a small square behind iron gates, a long drive leads to an imposing castle, founded in the 13th century and embellished during the Renaissance. Queen Catherine de’ Medici stayed here in 1566 to be followed 20 years later by her daughter, Marguerite de Valois, of whom more later. You can take a tour of the interior during the summer months or even book to stay in one of the guest rooms. RICH IN HISTORY Saint-Saturnin is a delightful place for a stroll. Just follow the brown information panels for a 30-minute walking tour, which winds through narrow alleys and small squares, past terraces, fountains and wash houses. Yellow, red and blue logos indicate whether the panels represent heritage sites, religion or water, and street names reveal the trades that once went on here, including butchery and a farrier. Just 19km from Saint-Saturnin, I turn off the A75 to the east to visit the Plus Beau Village of Montpeyroux. I’d happily buy a property here just for the view across the valley to the volcanic peaks. On a clear June morning, the Puy de Sancy, the highest peak in the Massif Central, is clearly visible, still streaked with snow. And I can spy the Puy-de-Dôme too, at the heart of the Chaîne des Puys, which is classified amongst the select band of Grands Sites de France. Montpeyroux – from ‘mont pierreux’ or ‘rocky hill’ – is clearly one of the most popular of Plus Beaux Villages, visitors being required to leave vehicles at a Clockwise from top: Clermont-Ferrand was originally two separate towns; the impressive Place de Jaude car park beside a children’s farm and play area outside is worth exploring; the cathedral overlooking the tree-lined Place de la Victoire; soothe your soul and your IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON, HEMIS, LUC OLIVIER, CAT LUC OLIVIER, HEMIS, THORNTON, © GILLIAN IMAGES the village. Pass through the Tourist Office to ❯❯ senses with a trip to Thermes de Royat spa 38 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Oct/Nov 2020 Oct/Nov 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 39 GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ AUVERGNE AUVERGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS “SAINT-AUSTREMOINE IS A REAL EYE-OPENER, WITH ITS LAVISHLY DECORATED EXTERIOR… BUT WAIT TILL YOU GET INSIDE” AD PAGE pick up the free booklet detailing the history and decorated exterior, inlaid with stones and adorned with highlights, as well as the resident artisans, many of interlaced designs. But wait till you get inside. whom open to visitors throughout the year.