Mountaineering in the Rongdo Valley, East Karakoram⸺Past Ascents and Future Potential
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MOUNTAINEERING IN THE RONGDO VALLEY, EAST KARAKORAM⸺PAST ASCENTS AND FUTURE POTENTIAL Prepared as an online report for the American Alpine Journal July 2020 Keith Goffin Cover photograph: Unclimbed Yonchap Kangri, 6080m, Rongdo Valley [Photograph: Keith Goffin]. Report © Keith Goffin Kirchheim unter Teck, Germany July 2020, Version 2020 F1.3 [email protected] Contents INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................................................... 1 DESCRIPTION OF RONGDO VALLEY .................................................................................................. 2 HISTORY OF RONGDO MOUNTAINEERING ..................................................................................... 11 DETAILS OF PREVIOUS ASCENTS ................................................................................................... 18 1) Balden Lhamo West Summit (Rongdo III) ................................................................................ 18 2) Chamba (Rongdo II) ................................................................................................................. 19 3) Ngapo Kangri (Rongdo I) ......................................................................................................... 20 4) Gazgazri ................................................................................................................................... 21 5) Sa’i Lhamo ............................................................................................................................... 23 6) Khyung Kangri .......................................................................................................................... 24 7) Chu Skeyes Kangri ................................................................................................................... 26 8) Langpoche ................................................................................................................................ 26 9) Odgsal I .................................................................................................................................... 27 10) Odgsal II ................................................................................................................................... 27 11) Charok Kangri .......................................................................................................................... 27 12) Mariushri ................................................................................................................................... 29 13) Tara .......................................................................................................................................... 30 14) Amitabha .................................................................................................................................. 31 15) Rangston Gyathok .................................................................................................................... 32 16) Phokto Scheyok ....................................................................................................................... 34 17) Tashispa Ri .............................................................................................................................. 35 SIGNIFICANT UNCLIMBED PEAKS .................................................................................................... 38 1) Rongdo IV 6190m ..................................................................................................................... 38 2) Satti Kangri 6520m .................................................................................................................... 39 3) Unnamed Peak above Rongdo Gompa 6110m ........................................................................ 40 4) Yonchap Kangri 6080m ............................................................................................................. 41 5) Peak X2 6160m ......................................................................................................................... 43 6) Balden Lhamo (Rongdo III) 6180m ........................................................................................... 44 7) Island Peak 6245m ................................................................................................................... 45 8) Odgsal III 6020m ....................................................................................................................... 46 9) Point 6064 ................................................................................................................................. 47 10) Unnamed Peak near Amitabha 6190m ..................................................................................... 48 REFERENCES ...................................................................................................................................... 49 APPENDIX ............................................................................................................................................ 52 MOUNTAINEERING IN THE RONGDO VALLEY, EAST KARAKORAM: PAST ASCENTS AND FUTURE POTENTIAL Keith Goffin INTRODUCTION The stunning Rongdo Valley is located in an area enclosed by the ‘Great Bend’ of the Shyok River in Nubra, northwest India. Administratively, it belongs to Ladakh (recently and controversially separated from the state of Jammu & Kashmir), whereas its mountains are designated as part of the East Karakoram. It was Chewang Motup of Rimo Expeditions who first recognized the mountaineering potential of the valley and his company has provided support to all of the 11 (approved) expeditions that have visited, starting from 2005. A total of 17 peaks have now been climbed, with some second ascents having been made, but there are still numerous peaks and new routes waiting to be climbed. The Survey of India’s (SOI) 1:50,000 maps of Rongdo are reputed to be excellent but their export is banned under Indian law due to the tense geo-political situation in this part of India, which borders both Pakistan and China. Consequently, the readily- available Swiss Olizane (2013) 1:150,000 map is the standard reference for mountaineers, although climbers should be aware that the map includes several mistakes in spot heights and the naming of peaks and glaciers. Google Earth is a useful planning tool, especially as photographs of some parts of the Rongdo Valley are not yet available, but mountaineers should be aware that heights on Google are also subject to error. The challenges awaiting mountaineers in Rongdo are inspiring⸺unclimbed 6000m peaks, new snow and ice routes, and big walls of solid golden granite. However, it is a challenge to obtain official permission to climb in this area of India. The approval process is coordinated by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) in Delhi and it is mandatory to obtain explicit permission from both the Indian Army and the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA). Only after the Army’s approval has been confirmed in writing by the MHA, will the IMF send an approval letter that can be used for obtaining the coveted ‘MX’ visas (specific visas for mountaineering) from an Indian embassy. This process typically takes five-eight months and can be unpredictable even up until the last minute. This is due to the geo-political situation, with recurrent incidents occurring along the borders with China and Pakistan. It should be remembered that the upper Rongdo Valley is only about 30 km from the border with Chinese-controlled territory and the Line of Actual Control (LAC) is disputed. This latter point was demonstrated by the deadly June 2020 clashes in the Galwan Valley, which is a side valley from the upper Shyok. However, for those with the patience to deal with the paperwork and the associated uncertainty, the reward is access to a valley with a stunning landscape, almost no visitors, inspiring views, and friendly locals. Acknowledgements Many thanks to the following people (in alphabetical order) who shared their expertise, photographs and reports: Jeff Dolinsky, Ralph Eberle, Tsewang Gyalson, Lindsay Griffin, Dan Jantzen, Eberhard Jurgalski, Chewang Motup, Divyesh Muni, Masato Oki, Tobias Pfefferkorn, Ed Poulter, Graham Rowbotham, V.K. Sashindran, Joie Seagram, Andy Selters, Kristjan-Erik Suurväli, and Todd Swain. 1 Mountaineers should be aware that if they attempt unapproved (‘pirate’) expeditions to Nubra and Rongdo, they risk being banned from further climbing in the Indian Himalaya. In 2018, an officer from a nearby army camp had been briefed to check the paperwork of the expeditions entering the Rongdo valley. Such spot checks are likely to continue in the future. Furthermore, in such a sensitive border area, unapproved expeditions bring the very real threat that the whole area could be closed to mountaineers⸺which would be a huge loss. The recent border clash in the Galwan Valley will mean that there will be even greater Indian military presence in the Nubra region in the future. There has been some confusion in the past about which peaks have been climbed in Rongdo. Therefore, this summary not only gives a general description of Rongdo but also provides a detailed summary of previous attempts and ascents, complemented by the identification of interesting possibilities for the future. The summary is based on extensive research: collating the information in expedition reports and sketch maps; assessing peak coordinates and heights; and comparing photographs