Mountaineering in the Rongdo Valley, East Karakoram⸺Past Ascents and Future Potential

MOUNTAINEERING IN THE RONGDO VALLEY, EAST KARAKORAM⸺PAST ASCENTS AND FUTURE POTENTIAL

Prepared as an online report for the American Alpine Journal

July 2020

Keith Goffin

Cover photograph: Unclimbed Yonchap Kangri, 6080m, Rongdo Valley [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

Report © Keith Goffin Kirchheim unter Teck, Germany July 2020, Version 2020 F1.3 [email protected]

Contents INTRODUCTION ...... 1 DESCRIPTION OF RONGDO VALLEY ...... 2 HISTORY OF RONGDO MOUNTAINEERING ...... 11 DETAILS OF PREVIOUS ASCENTS ...... 18 1) Balden Lhamo West Summit (Rongdo III) ...... 18 2) Chamba (Rongdo II) ...... 19 3) Ngapo Kangri (Rongdo I) ...... 20 4) Gazgazri ...... 21 5) Sa’i Lhamo ...... 23 6) Khyung Kangri ...... 24 7) Chu Skeyes Kangri ...... 26 8) Langpoche ...... 26 9) Odgsal I ...... 27 10) Odgsal II ...... 27 11) Charok Kangri ...... 27 12) Mariushri ...... 29 13) Tara ...... 30 14) Amitabha ...... 31 15) Rangston Gyathok ...... 32 16) Phokto Scheyok ...... 34 17) Tashispa Ri ...... 35 SIGNIFICANT UNCLIMBED PEAKS ...... 38 1) Rongdo IV 6190m ...... 38 2) Satti Kangri 6520m ...... 39 3) Unnamed Peak above Rongdo Gompa 6110m ...... 40 4) Yonchap Kangri 6080m ...... 41 5) Peak X2 6160m ...... 43 6) Balden Lhamo (Rongdo III) 6180m ...... 44 7) Island Peak 6245m ...... 45 8) Odgsal III 6020m ...... 46 9) Point 6064 ...... 47 10) Unnamed Peak near Amitabha 6190m ...... 48 REFERENCES ...... 49 APPENDIX ...... 52

MOUNTAINEERING IN THE RONGDO VALLEY, EAST KARAKORAM: PAST ASCENTS AND FUTURE POTENTIAL

Keith Goffin

INTRODUCTION The stunning Rongdo Valley is located in an area enclosed by the ‘Great Bend’ of the Shyok River in Nubra, northwest India. Administratively, it belongs to Ladakh (recently and controversially separated from the state of Jammu & Kashmir), whereas its mountains are designated as part of the East Karakoram. It was Chewang Motup of Rimo Expeditions who first recognized the mountaineering potential of the valley and his company has provided support to all of the 11 (approved) expeditions that have visited, starting from 2005. A total of 17 peaks have now been climbed, with some second ascents having been made, but there are still numerous peaks and new routes waiting to be climbed. The Survey of India’s (SOI) 1:50,000 maps of Rongdo are reputed to be excellent but their export is banned under Indian law due to the tense geo-political situation in this part of India, which borders both Pakistan and China. Consequently, the readily- available Swiss Olizane (2013) 1:150,000 map is the standard reference for mountaineers, although climbers should be aware that the map includes several mistakes in spot heights and the naming of peaks and glaciers. Google Earth is a useful planning tool, especially as photographs of some parts of the Rongdo Valley are not yet available, but mountaineers should be aware that heights on Google are also subject to error. The challenges awaiting mountaineers in Rongdo are inspiring⸺unclimbed 6000m peaks, new snow and ice routes, and big walls of solid golden granite. However, it is a challenge to obtain official permission to climb in this area of India. The approval process is coordinated by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) in Delhi and it is mandatory to obtain explicit permission from both the Indian Army and the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA). Only after the Army’s approval has been confirmed in writing by the MHA, will the IMF send an approval letter that can be used for obtaining the coveted ‘MX’ visas (specific visas for mountaineering) from an Indian embassy. This process typically takes five-eight months and can be unpredictable even up until the last minute. This is due to the geo-political situation, with recurrent incidents occurring along the borders with China and Pakistan. It should be remembered that the upper Rongdo Valley is only about 30 km from the border with Chinese-controlled territory and the Line of Actual Control (LAC) is disputed. This latter point was demonstrated by the deadly June 2020 clashes in the Galwan Valley, which is a side valley from the upper Shyok. However, for those with the patience to deal with the paperwork and the associated uncertainty, the reward is access to a valley with a stunning landscape, almost no visitors, inspiring views, and friendly locals.

Acknowledgements Many thanks to the following people (in alphabetical order) who shared their expertise, photographs and reports: Jeff Dolinsky, Ralph Eberle, Tsewang Gyalson, Lindsay Griffin, Dan Jantzen, Eberhard Jurgalski, Chewang Motup, Divyesh Muni, Masato Oki, Tobias Pfefferkorn, Ed Poulter, Graham Rowbotham, V.K. Sashindran, Joie Seagram, Andy Selters, Kristjan-Erik Suurväli, and Todd Swain.

Mountaineers should be aware that if they attempt unapproved (‘pirate’) expeditions to Nubra and Rongdo, they risk being banned from further climbing in the Indian Himalaya. In 2018, an officer from a nearby army camp had been briefed to check the paperwork of the expeditions entering the Rongdo valley. Such spot checks are likely to continue in the future. Furthermore, in such a sensitive border area, unapproved expeditions bring the very real threat that the whole area could be closed to mountaineers⸺which would be a huge loss. The recent border clash in the Galwan Valley will mean that there will be even greater Indian military presence in the Nubra region in the future. There has been some confusion in the past about which peaks have been climbed in Rongdo. Therefore, this summary not only gives a general description of Rongdo but also provides a detailed summary of previous attempts and ascents, complemented by the identification of interesting possibilities for the future. The summary is based on extensive research: collating the information in expedition reports and sketch maps; assessing peak coordinates and heights; and comparing photographs and Google Earth images. Members of previous expeditions were also consulted and their support in preparing this report is much appreciated. The rest of this report is structured in four main sections (plus an appendix): ▪ A general description of the valley. ▪ The history of mountaineering in Rongdo. ▪ Details of previous ascents. ▪ Significant unclimbed peaks.

DESCRIPTION OF RONGDO VALLEY Map 1 shows the Rongdo Valley annotated with all of the peaks that have been climbed. It is based on the Olizane map because, due to the tense geo-political situation, it is unlikely that the 1:50,000 SOI maps will be released for many years to come. To ensure accuracy, the position of each peak was checked using ascensionists’ coordinates (where available), sketch maps and photographs provided in most of the expedition reports, collated against Google earth images, and correspondence with expedition leaders. It should be noted that Map 1 includes various corrections to the Olizane map. For example, the spelling and position of the Koyak Glacier has been corrected. Names are an issue as translations from the Ladakhi language into English often vary. This means that, for example, mountain features and even individual people’s names are often spelt in more than one way. A kmz file annotated with the peaks on Google earth is available on request from [email protected] and an excerpt is given in the Appendix. Rongdo Village is located at 3400m near to the Shyok River, which is an ancient trading route (Devers, 2018). Dramatically, Shyok translates to ‘River of Death’, as it has very strong currents and many travellers have drowned trying to cross it. Although the upper Shyok can be forded at several points, these are notoriously dangerous. Nowadays, visitors arrive from the capital of Ladakh, Leh, via the Khardung La and cross a major bridge downstream of Rongdo before following the track on the north bank of the Shyok to Rongdo. A new bridge in construction upstream of Rongdo will offer better access in the next year, or so. The current route to the village from the north follows a road that was severely damaged by the torrential rains of 2010, where over 250 people died in Leh. The current track follows an ill-marked road through sand dunes and a SUV driver from Leh was reluctant to drive along it in 2018.

Map 1: The Rongdo Valley with Previous Ascents and Significant Unclimbed Peaks (as of June 2020) [Map drawn by Tobias Pfefferkorn].

The village of Rongdo is small, with a school but no shops. So, expeditions need to bring all their provisions with them. About 20 families live in Rongdo, several of which have family members in their nineties⸺the local people are known for their longevity. Some donkeys are available for hire in Rongdo but larger expeditions will need to organize horses from Leh to supplement these. It should be noted that the women of the Nubra Valley have successfully lobbied their local administration to have the sale of tobacco and cigarettes banned in the whole area, to reduce the prevalence of lung cancer. For one mountaineer on a 2018 expedition this came as a shock, when he could not obtain any cigarettes to replace the many that a persuasive horseman from Leh had scrounged from him during his time in Rongdo! Trekking up the Rongdo Valley starts with a short section of about 1-2km along the north (true-right) side of the Rongo Togpo (river). This section passes extensive debris from the 2010 torrential rains and runs next to cultivated fields. There is then a steep ascent of about 300m, above the river gorge. The path is generally good but it crosses loose, exposed rocky slopes and can be difficult after heavy rain. From the path, the course of the river can be seen in the gorge below (see Photograph 1). The river is Grade VI white-water, with few eddies and it is not believed that kayakers have ever attempted the lower section of the Rongdo river. Further up the valley, a massive waterfall can be seen, where the whole river flows from the flatter, wider upper valley into the gorge (see Photograph 2).

Photograph 1: View from a point about 2 hours’ walk above Rongdo Village, where the path climbs steeply from the trees [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

Above the waterfall, the track regains the river at Stagsma, which means ‘place of willows’ (also referred to as Changma in some reports [e.g. Sashindran, 2013]). This is a flat area with grass, trees and a stream, right next to loud, impressive rapids of the

4 main river. It is either used as a first campsite (for teams wanting to climb slowly for acclimatization purposes), or as a lunch spot by groups moving faster up the valley (see Photograph 3). From this point on, the scenery becomes even more impressive, with steep rock walls seen above extensive rocky slopes on the north side of the river.

Photograph 2: Looking down the northern, loose, rocky slopes of the path above Rongdo, towards the gorge and the massive waterfall of the Rongo Togpo [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

A couple of kilometers above Stagsma, the valley widens and there are prominent golden granite walls of 5-600m on both sides of the river (see Photograph 4). The track largely follows the river up to Tipthi, where there is hermitage, Rongdo Gompa, which is visited by a Buddhist monk on a monthly basis. The Gompa is normally locked and so permission to visit must be arranged in advance. Directly above the Gompa are interesting rock formations and walls.

Photograph 3: Trees at the Stagsma resting place with prayer flags. Above, the first significant granite walls (position R7 on Map 2 [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

Photograph 4: Campsite next to the shepherds’ huts at Doksa at 4040m, with significant granite walls on the true left-hand-side of the valley. From left to right are the rock walls L2, L3 & L4, shown on Map 2 [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

Most expeditions continue from Tipthi for a couple of hours and then spend the night next to the shepherds’ huts at Doksa (Photograph 4) (note that in some reports the spelling Daksa has been used). During the summer, up to half a dozen locals from Rongdo will have brought their animals to graze here and further up the valley. The animals include herds of goats that are taken to high altitude to ensure the quality of their pashmina wool. Doksa itself is situated within well-irrigated grazing and wheat fields with spectacular views of the granite walls on both sides of the Valley. Map 2 shows the position of the main rock walls in Rongdo and it can be seen that they stretch from Doksa until the hot springs of Chhurn Nangma. On the 2018 approach to Phokto Sheyok base camp, a photographic record was made of all of the rock walls, numbered according to their position on either the true left or true right of the valley. The true right-hand-side is documented in Photographs 5-12. Noteworthy on the right are steep walls (Photographs 5, 8 & 9); the attractive ‘Rock Tower’ near Rongdo Gompa (Photograph 7); and the waterfall area (Photograph 11). The first two rock climbs in Rongdo were completed near the waterfall in 2019 (Swain, 2019). Photographs 13-20 document the true left-hand-side. Here, noteworthy are Yonchap Kangri (Photograph 15); distinctive slabs (Photograph 16); and a large area of grey rock similar to Bregalia in Switzerland (Photographs 18, 19 & 20). This contains interesting unclimbed peaks such as Photograph 18.

Map 2: Significant Rock Walls in the Upper Rongdo Valley.

Above Doksa there is a good bridge and, from then on, the main path continues up the true-left river bank, The path climbs steadily to the hot sulphur springs at 4612m. The multiple crossings of side streams can be challenging, depending on the amount of snow melt (e.g. fast-moving, deep water is ‘bridged’ by three round, slippery wooden poles near the hot springs). The hot springs (Chutsan in Ladakhi) are located at the entrance to the side valley that leads to interesting peaks such as Charok Kangri, Amitabha, and Odgsal I-III and it is an ideal camping ground (Photograph 21).

Photographs [Keith Goffin]: Rock walls on true right side of the Rongdo Valley.

Photograph 5: Steep walls at R6. Photograph 9: Location R3.

Photograph 6: From left: R6, R5, R4 & R3. Photograph 10: Location R2.

Photograph 7: ‘Rock Tower’ (R5). Photograph 11: Location R2.

Photograph 12: From right: Phokto Scheyok, Sa’i Lhamo, R1 &R2. Photograph 8: From left: R4, R3.

Photographs [Keith Goffin]: Rock walls on true left side of the Rongdo Valley.

Photograph 13: From right: L5 & L4. Photograph 17: Locations L2.

Photograph 14: From left: R4, R3, L1-L5. Photograph 18: 5980m peak near L2.

Photograph 15: L4 & L5 and Yonchap Kangri. Photograph 19: Grey rock at Location L1.

Photograph 16: Slabs at L3. Photograph 20: Location L1 from high up.

Photograph 21: View from an intermediate camp at the hot springs and looking southeast along the stream Chhurn Nangma. Note the characteristic ‘Rock Wedge’ peak, which is unclimbed and also can be clearly seen in Photograph 35 [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

It is a short day’s walk from the hot springs, either to the basecamp at the bottom of the valley explored by the Canadians in 2012, or to a convenient basecamp at the bottom of the South East Shukpa Kunchang Glacier. This latter basecamp was used by the British-German 2018 expedition as it offered fast access to Phokto Sheyok (Black Pyramid Peak). It is a beautiful location (see Photograph 22), with plenty of flat ground, good running water, numerous types of wild flowers, and stunning views (coordinates 34°30'57.59"N; 77°59'12.07"E). Previous expeditions have taken between three and six days to reach their basecamps, which are typically between 4800 and 5400m. Note that this is an altitude gain of up to 2000m from Rongdo Village and so good acclimatization is required for this approach. Several expeditions have reported that team members experienced significant altitude sickness (e.g. Seagram, 2013b; Poulter, 2016b). Locals can complete the journey to basecamp with horses easily within two days and so expeditions will need to consider if they want to take longer for acclimatization than the time that horsemen will typically plan for the journey. In 2018, the Phokto Scheyok expedition walked up the valley in three days and back down in two. With hindsight, it would have been better to have spent more time at Doksa on the descent, as the scenery is stunning and the side valleys offer interesting trekking, with views of unclimbed peaks. Expeditions considering this should note that they will need to plan for it in advance (including extra costs for hiring the horses for longer), as otherwise the horsemen will plan the shortest time possible.

Photograph 22: Basecamp 5375m at the bottom of the Southeast Shukpa Kunchang Glacier. Used for the ascent of Phokto Scheyok (seen left of center), with the west, talus ridge of Ngapo Kangri (Rongdo I) in front [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

HISTORY OF RONGDO MOUNTAINEERING The Nubra Valley has been an important caravan route for many centuries, especially for the trade in wool (Agrawal, 2012). The Nubra arm leads north to the famous Karakoram Pass and, onwards, to Kashgar. The upper Shyok River leads to Tibet and this was also an important trade route, until boundary disputes cut-off historic trading (Bray, 2005). Many early Western visitors passed through Nubra. The explorer William Moorcroft, who worked for the East India company, travelled extensively in Ladakh with his cartographer, George Trebeck, in the 1820s (Mason, 1956). G.T. Vigne travelled in Ladakh in 1835-38 (Phillimore, 1959-60) and produced an early map, showing the Rongdo area as blank with the annotation: “Lofty Snowy Mountains”. The famous American mountaineering couple Fanny Bullock Workman and William Hunter Workman visited in 1898 (Bullock Workman and Hunter Workman, 1900). The Swedish explorer Sven Hedin passed through en-route to Tibet in 1906 (Hedin, 1909). However, all of these early explorers passed through Nubra without visiting the side- valley of Rongdo. Almost certainly the first western visitors to the Rongdo Valley were surveyors from the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India (GTS), who were mapping the whole of Kashmir (Mason, 1956). Most of the demanding fieldwork in Kashmir was conducted by the team led by William Johnson. An 1875 GTS map, based on their work, shows that the team set-up an observation station north-east of Rongdo in the area called Fatha (see Map 1), at an impressive height of 19,177 feet (5845m). Johnson was known as “a bold mountain surveyor” (Phillimore, 1959-60, p96) who is reported to have climbed during his Kashmir survey work as high as 20,600 feet (6278m) (Walker,

1863), or even 20,866 feet (6359m) (Godwin-Austen, 1883). Exactly which peaks Johnson climbed is currently unclear but “in simple mountaineering terms his were arguably the most notable achievements [of his time]” (Isserman and Weaver, (2008, p21). His ascents remained height records for many years but his contribution to Himalayan climbing has largely been overlooked (Issermann and Weaver, 2008). So, it is appropriate that the achievement of Johnson and his team, in carrying a theodolite up to 5845m near Fatha be acknowledged. They made an impressive start to mountaineering in the Rongdo Valley. A relatively early visit to the Rongdo Valley was made in 1947 by a British army officer, Reginald Schomberg, and described in the Himalayan Journal (Schomberg, 1949). He reported staying at Thripti (spelt Thipti in other reports and on most maps) and, then, “we started up the valley… Constant, stone-filled gullies had to be crossed and one stream in particular flowing from Peak 22660 was full of rock and rubble and proved very troublesome” (p100). Schomberg was presumably using an early map as the peak he quotes as being 22,660 feet (6906m) is actually much lower (the peak is now named Amitabha and is shown to be 6360m on the Olizane map). Interestingly, the US Army Map Service (AMS) U502 Series of 1:250,000 maps dating from the 1960s replicated the error with a spot height of 22,660 feet (Army Map Service, 1962). The history of conflict in Kashmir has had a direct and continuing impact on the availability of maps of Ladakh. Even today, detailed maps are restricted due to security concerns. This was said to be “incongruous in the age of stereo mapping and satellite photography” (Dravers, 1980, p133) and, of course, that was written long before Google Earth. The practice of restricting the availability of maps started “at least as early as 1810” (Waller, 1990, p299) and, ever since, “the greatest importance was attached to the security of maps. There was a strict rule that surveyors should treat their work as secret and not pass on copies… without proper authority” (Chadha, 1991, p5). Over 200 years later, maps of the Indian Himalaya are still restricted. After the war with China in 1962, the Indian Government decreed that the Himalaya should be re-surveyed for strategic reasons. Following independence, the GTS had been replaced by the Survey of India (SOI), for whom the task of mapping the Himalaya with a scale of 1:50,000 “was immense, the terrain formidable and intricate… Every detachment was an expedition and many lives were lost” (Chadha, 1991, p4). Certainly, SOI cartographers would have travelled in the Rongdo Valley in the 1960s but, until now, access to the records of this survey work has not been granted. Therefore, where their observation stations were sited and at what heights, and whether first ascents were made in the 1960s remains unknown. The answers probably lie in classified material in the archives of the SOI. Unfortunately, several requests for information from the archives were ignored by the SOI in 2019. In 2005, the first group of contemporary mountaineers to visit Rongdo entered from the north via the Koyak Glacier (Muni, 2006). The crossing of the col leading to the Koyak Glacier was relatively straightforward but the descent “involved some careful climbing down loose rocks, slabs and broken glacier” (Muni, 2006). The Indo- American team descended to Rongdo village without climbing but recognized that the valley had huge climbing potential. The first climbing in Rongdo was in 2012, when a Canadian-American team of four climbers led by Joie Seagram made ascents of four peaks over 6000m (Seagram, 2013a/b). They located their basecamp at the bottom of a wide glaciated valley (approximately 34°30'2.89"N; 77°57'18.00"E) at a reported height of 4802m. From here they see they could see various peaks that they initially designated Rongdo I to IV (from left to right, looking up the side valley) but later gave more appropriate local

12 names to the peaks they climbed. The head of this side valley, which faces to the east, was informally named the ‘Canadian Cirque’. In addition to describing their ascents, the Canadian-American report notes their astonishment at the seeing “gigantic (literally hundreds of metres high) solid-looking walls jutting up both sides of the valley⸺a rock climber’s paradise” (Seagram, 2013b). In 2013, a large Indian Air Force (IAF) expedition of 12 climbers spent six weeks in the Rongdo Valley and neighbouring side valleys, making seven first ascents, six of which were over 6000m (Sashindran, 2014a/b/c). The IAF team attempted one additional peak, which they thought was unclimbed. However, bad weather stopped their ascent at an altitude of 5990m and later they realised that they had attempted Gazgazri (6150m), which had already been climbed in 2012. This was the first example of confusion about which peaks had been climbed in Rongdo. Joie Seagram visited Rongdo again in 2014, this time accompanied by only one other climber. The pair were careful not to climb in the areas where the IAF had been active, as at that time they were not sure which peaks the IAF had ascended. Seagram and her climbing partner made three new 6000m ascents. This included climbing Tara (6248m) and an impressive solo ascent of 6335m Amitabha by Graham Rowbotham (Seagram, 2015a/b). During the expedition, the two Canadians considered trekking 15km up the South East Shukpa Kunchang and further glaciers to an unclimbed 6720m peak but gave up due to waist-deep wet snow (this peak was climbed in 2018 and named Rangston Gyalthok). In 2015, three expeditions were active in Rongdo. A British team’s expedition report states that they were very careful to check the previous three expeditions’ reports, in selecting two unclimbed mountains as their objectives. The team attempted the pyramid-shaped mountain at the head of the Rongdo Valley but turned back due to difficult conditions and deteriorating weather (Poulter, 2016a/b/c). As the weather remained poor with some new snow (despite it being July), the British team were neither able to make a second attempt, nor to try their second objective, designated ‘X2’. However, the team produced a comprehensive and very useful report of their expedition plus an interesting video. This includes many interesting views of the Rongdo Valley and illustrates the challenges of river crossings in the upper valley (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PQQUU4fS5M).. The other two expeditions in 2015 were Indian. A civilian team visited the Ryong Kharu Valley (Muni, 2016a/b/c) and then crossed into Rongdo, via the straightforward Sagtogpa Col (5915m). Before crossing this col, they made what they thought was a first ascent, naming it ‘Sagtogpa Kangri’. However, this turned out to be the second ascent of Tara (6248m), albeit by an interesting new route. The third expedition was again from the IAF. It visited the neighbouring valley of Kunzang (Sahindran, 2016a/b), where they made three interesting first ascents over 6000m. They then trekked into Rongdo via the Shalungpa Glacier, descending but not climbing in the Rongdo Valley itself. In 2016 a French group made a second ascent of the peak Sa’i Lhamo. This peak is at the head of the Rongdo Valley and is between 5960m (spot height on the Olizane map) and 6030m high (as reported by the first IAF ascensionists). According to the IMF, the French expedition had no official approval and the climbers themselves described it as a “discrete” trip (Lafforgue, 2020). In 2017, an Indian team made an impressive traverse of the East Karakoram mountains, crossing several glaciers for the first time (Muni, 2018). On this long journey they made what they thought was a first ascent in Rongdo, naming it ‘Nga Kangri’. This has now been confirmed to be the second ascent of Mariushri (6120m),

13 climbed by Rowbotham in 2014. Again, confusion over which Rongdo peaks had been climbed led to a team thinking they were on new ground, when they were not. Here, the cause of the confusion was an expedition making an ascent before the previous year’s expedition had published its report. (Here, the IMF could help by advising expeditions of activity in recent years.) Two expeditions visited in 2018. An Estonian team obtained permission to climb Rangston Gyathok 6801m (Suurväli, 2019) and hoped to access it from the upper Shyok Valley. They were refused permission for this access route, as it passes about 5km from the Chinese border. The team was then faced with a 15km trek over various glaciers and a pass⸺the first part of which had been attempted by Seagram in 2014. Despite the challenging approach, the Estonian team of seven mountaineers plus their liaison officer and sirdar all summited. In the same year, a small British-German team climbed Phokto Scheyok 6235m⸺Black Pyramid Peak (Goffin, 2019)⸺the same peak that was attempted by the 2016 British expedition. For their ascent, they located their basecamp at the bottom of the South East Shukpa Kunchang at about 5375m. This was much higher than the basecamp used on the 2016 British attempt and made it quicker and easier to find a suitable ABC on the side arm of the South East Shukpa Kunchang Glacier, below the south face of Phokto Scheyok. The Canadian-American expedition of 2012 recognized the potential for rock- climbing (Seagram, 2013a). Several other expeditions have also pondered the potential but in 2019, the well-known US climber Todd Swain and his wife were the first to put up the rock routes. They climbed two approximately 200m routes on the granite, a bit further up the valley than Doksa (Swain, 2019), probably in the waterfall area (Photograph 11). Further details were published in the American Alpine Journal (Swain, 2020). Other climbers planning to create rock routes should be aware that certain faces are considered sacred by Buddhists and should be avoided. Generally, there are multiple cairns on the paths below the sacred faces. In August 2019, an Indian expedition led by Divyesh Muni visited the Tsati Valley (sometimes spelt Tsatti), which runs north of and parallel to Rongdo (see Map 1). They faced extremely loose and dangerous slopes on the walk-in and a treacherous river crossing. Although they did not actually enter the Rongdo Valley, this team climbed a peak on the watershed, which is 6104m and named Tashispa Ri (Muni, 2020). Further details and photographs of interested, unclimbed peaks are expected to be published soon. It should be noted that all of the previous expeditions to Rongdo Valley have chosen the months from July to September. In mid-July, snow-melt can still make river crossings difficult in the afternoons but the main glaciers are likely to be dry. The summer weather in Ladakh appears to be increasingly unpredictable, with monsoon torrential rains (often referred to as cloudbursts in India) sometimes even reaching Ladakh. In July 2018, typical days included fog, sleet, and alternating moderate rain, light snow, and strong sunshine. As long as the monsoon rains do not manage to breach the Greater Himalayan Range, July and August appear the best time to visit. In mid-September there is definitely a risk of heavier snowfall and even in August there can be very heavy snowfall (e.g. as reported in Muni, 2020). Winter mountaineering in Ladakh is in its infancy with some ice-climbing reported in Zanskar and one winter ascent in the Pangong Range (Griffin, 2016). No mountaineers are known to have visited Rongdo in the winter months, or even considered which faces and gullies would become attractive at low temperatures. The potential is there and so all it needs is ambitious climbers.

Table 1: Previous Ascents in the Rongdo Valley, East Karakoram 2006-2018 (based on information available as of June 2020).

# Peak name1 / Height4 (Olizane / SOI Coordinates5 Date of first ascent / Route and grading (if References ‘Translation’ or / 1st ascensionists’ known) / First ascensionists / Other attempts explanation2 / GPS / Jurgalski) and repeat ascents Alternative names3 1 Balden Lhamo West -- / 6090m / 6000m / 34°28'56.59"N First ascent on 18th August 2012 / via southwest Seagram (2013a/b). Summit / named after a 6090m 78° 2'12.65"E ridge / Andy Selters, Jeff Dolinsky, Joan Dolinsky, goddess / Rongdo III6 Kunzang Sherpa, Danuru Sherpa, Nangang Bhote, Arvind Raman and Mu Gombu Rai / no other attempts. 2 Chamba / ‘The future 6160m / 6292m / 34°30'23.51"N First ascent on 22nd August 2012 / via southeast Seagram (2013a/b). Buddha’ / Rongdo II5 6170m / 6225m 78° 1'16.89"E glacier / Jeff Dolinsky, Joan Dolinsky, Kunzang Sherpa, Danuru Sherpa, Nangang Bhote and Arvind Raman / no other attempts. 3 Ngapo Kangri / ‘Blue 6310m / 6337m / 34°30'56.65"N First ascent on 23rd August 2012 / via southerly Seagram (2013a/b); sheep’ / Rongdo I6 6350m / 6350m 78° 0'37.27"E slopes and southeast aspect / Andy Selters and Dolinsky (2020). Arvind Raman / one unsuccessful attempt on the west ridge on the 23rd August but this route was completed on 25th August 2012 by Jeff Dolinsky, Joan Dolinsky and Danuru Sherpa, with a solid granite section soloed at 5.4. 4 Gazgazri / ‘Lammergeyer 6150m / 6235 / 6160m 34°32'58.89"N First ascent on 29th August 2012 / southwest Seagram (2013a/b); vulture’ / Lungkhor Kangri7 / 6235m 77°57'34.54"E ridge and south face [70º ice] / Andy Selters and Sashindran (2014a/b/c). Nangang Bhote / one unsuccessful attempt in 2013. 5 Sa’i Lhamo / ‘Earth 5960m / 5983m / 34°31'34.20"N First ascent on 18th May 2013 / via southwest Sashindran (2014a/b/c); Goddess’ / -- 6030m / 6015m 77°58'3.70"E ridge / V.K. Sashindran, S. Dubey, G.S. Lafforgue, L. (2020). Pokhariya, J.P.S. Raina, S. Bohra, J.R. Poonia, Skalzang Ridzin, Tshering Bhutia, Karma Sherpa and Tashi Zangla. / one unofficial repeat ascent in 2016 by the northwest ridge. 6 Khyung Kangri / ‘Garuda’ 6090m / 6170m / 34°32'48.21"N First ascent on 25th May 2013 / via south spur, Sashindran (2014a/b/c). / -- 6183m / 6190m 77°59'15.30"E north face and southeast summit ridge / V.K. Sash- indran, S. Dubey, J.P.S. Raina, S. Bohra, J.R. Poonia, S. Ridzin, K. Thinles, Tashi Gyalson, S. Desal and Tsewang Gyalson / no other attempts.

7 Chu Skeyes Kangri / -- / 5972m / 6053m / 34°33'2.18"N First ascent on 26th May 2013 / via gully on south Sashindran (2014a/b/c). ‘Lotus’ / -- 6035m 77°58'31.60"E face / Avinash Prasad, K.S. Sanghera, C.Y. Basavaraj, D.K. Vyas, D. Chhetry, I.A. Dar, T. Zangia, T. Ridzin, K. Sherpa, D. Norbu, C. Bhutia and D. Gualpo / no other attempts. 8 Langpoche / ‘Elephant -- / 5920m / 5968m / 34°32'10.34"N First ascent on 26th May 2013 / via elongated east Sashindran (2014a/b/c). Head’ / -- 5950m 77°58'18.46"E spur / Avinash Prasad, K.S. Sanghera, C.Y. Basavaraj, D.K. Vyas, D. Chhetry, I.A. Dar, T. Zangla, T. Rigzin, K. Sherpa, D. Norbu, C. Bhutia and D. Gyalpo / no repeat attempts. 9 Odgsal I / ‘Clear light I’ / -- 6140m / 6210m / 34°27'29.89"N First ascent on 5th June 2013 / via southwest face Sashindran (2014a/b/c). 6234m / 6210m 78° 2'29.76"E with 60º slopes/ V.K. Sashindran, G.S. Pokhariya, J.P.S. Raina, R.R. Poonia, K. Thinles, D. Norbu, D. Gyalpo and Tashi Phunchok / no other attempts. 10 Odgsal II / ‘Clear light II’ / -- / 5985m / 6028m / 34°27'23.12"N First ascent on 6th June 2013 / via east face / S. Sashindran (2014a/b/c). -- 5985m 78° 1'55.51"E Dubey, K.S. Sanghera, C.Y. Basavaraj, S. Bohra, S. Ridzin, K. Thinles, D. Gyalpo and S. Desal / no other attempts. 11 Charok Kangri / ‘Vulture’ / -- / 6172m / 6122m / 34°29'18.89"N First ascent on 7th June 2013 / via east-west ridge Sashindran (2014a/b/c). -- 6145m 77°59'47.80"E [sections of 70º] / A. Prasad, D.K. Vyas, D. Chhetry, I.A. Dar., S. Ridzin, K. Thinles, S. Desal and T. Bhutia / no other attempts. 12 Mariushri / ‘Male 6120m / 6165m / 34°33'24.27"N First ascent on 14th August 2014 / via south face Seagram (2015a/b; Bodhisattva of wisdom’ / 6167m / 6165m 78° 1'35.59"E and southwest ridge [PD] / Graham Rowbotham 2018); Muni (2017; Nga Kangri (solo) / Repeat ascent in 2017, where an Indian 2018a/b). team thought they were making a first ascent (of ‘Nga Kangri’). 13 Tara / ‘Female -- / 6305m / 6248m / 34°32'12.66"N First ascent on 15th August 2014 / via north ridge Seagram (2015a/b; Bodhisattva of 6305m 78° 1'44.46"E [45º ice, AD] / Joie Seagram and Graham 2018); Muni (2015); compassion’ / Sagtogpa Rowbotham / second ascent via new route in Muni (2016a/b/c). Kangri 2015 (west ridge, and south-east ridge [50º]), where an Indian team thought they were making a first ascent (of ‘Sagtogpa Peak’). 14 Amitabha / ‘Buddha of 6360m / 6415m / 34°26'51.52"N First ascent on 20th August 2014 / via northwest Seagram (2015a/b; infinite light’ / -- 6335m / 6415m 77°58'19.82"E face and northwest ridge [AD+] / Graham 2018). Rowbotham (solo) / no other attempts.

15 Rangston Gyathok / 6720m / 6751m / 34° 37'6.32"N First ascent on 22nd July 2018 / via the southwest Suurväli (2019). ‘Hundred Year 6801m / 6770m 78° 4'38.71"E ridge and west face [WI3] / Lauri Ehrenpreis, Priit Anniversary’ / Phurdukpo Joosu, Meelis Luukas, Sven Oja, Lauri Stern, Priit Kangri I and Kunchang Simson, Kristjan-Erik Suurväli, Stanzing Norbu Kangri (Google) and Passang Temba Butia / no other attempts. 16 Phokto Scheyok / ‘Black 6240m / 6215m / 34°31'50.56"N First ascent on 22nd July 2018 / via central gully, Sashindran (2014b/c); Pyramid’ / X3 6235m / 6230m 78° 0'28.54"E south face [50º] / Tsewang Gyalson, Ralph Poulter (2016a/b); Eberle and Keith Goffin / previous attempts in Goffin (2019). 2014 and 2015. 17 Tashispa Ri / Good -- / -- / 6104m / -- 34°30'5.65"N First ascent on 12th August 2019 / via glacier and Muni (2020). Fortune Mountain / -- 77°53'15.42"E northern ridge / Rajesh Gadgil, Atin Sathe, Divyesh Muni, Pemba Norbu, Pasang, Bhote, Sangbu Sherpa, Phuphu Dorje and Pasang Sherpa. / No previous attempts. 1Peaks which have been climbed and named are shown bold. The names from maps or preliminary names given to unclimbed peaks are shown non-bold. 2Approximate translations of the Tibetan and Ladakhi names are given, where known. 3Some peaks have different names depending on the map used. The names given by the first ascensionists and registered at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) should be used and are shown bold. Other names are in non-bold text. 4Spot heights on maps and peak heights as reported by first ascensionists using GPS can vary significantly (e.g. 100m for Khyung Kangri). Therefore, four heights are given here: a) The spot height from the Olizane Map, if given (this map is widely-available but the peak heights are known to be unreliable); b) The Survey of India [SOI] spot heights; c) The GPS readings reported by the first ascensionists (although these can also have errors) and: d) A peak’s height as calculated by Eberhard Jurgalski, using various satellite data (he makes careful comparisons of various values⸺see http://www.8000ers.com/cms/). Jurgalski’s estimates are the likely to be the most accurate. 5Coordinates were taken from Google Earth and are in WGS84 format. There can be slight differences to the coordinates given in expedition reports. All peaks have been entered into a Google Earth KMZ file, available from [email protected]. 6The Canadian-American (2012) expedition gave these peaks the preliminary names Rongdo I-IV. Appropriately, they chose Tibetan-Ladakhi names for the peaks where they made first ascents. 7The first ascent of this peak was by the 2012 Canadian-American expedition, which gave it the name Gazgazri. An Indian Air Force expedition made an unsuccessful attempt and, thinking that it was unclimbed, proposed the name Lungkhor Kangri but Gazgazri is registered and should be used.

DETAILS OF PREVIOUS ASCENTS Until the end of 2019, 12 expeditions had either passed through or climbed in Rongdo. One additional expedition had climbed a peak overlooking Rongdo but accessed it from the Tsati Valley. Table 1 lists the 17 peaks that have been climbed. To avoid any confusion about previous ascents, this comprehensive table gives peak names (with alternatives that have been used); different estimates of each peak’s height; verified coordinates; details of ascents; and relevant references. From the 17 peaks, 13 are clearly over 6000m, whereas four are borderline (Odgsal II, Sa’I Lhamo, Chu Skeynes Kangri and Langpoche). It is important for mountaineers that want to climb a 6000m peak to note that measurements of peak heights can vary by up to 100m. For example, Odgsal II, which was climbed in 2013, has a SOI spot height of 5985m, the IAF first ascensionists’ GPS indicated 6028m but the height calculated using modern satellite data is 5985m. As Table 1 gives up to four different estimates of peak heights, the typical range of error can be estimated.

1) Balden Lhamo West Summit (Rongdo III) This peak is at the end of a glacier valley at what has been called the ‘Canadian Cirque’ (see Photograph 23). Having reached the col between Rongdo III and IV, a party of nine from the 2012 Canadian-American expedition made the first ascent via the southwest ridge (reporting a height of 6000m). A few days later, another group from the same expedition attempted the true summit, having placed an ABC at 5690m. At around 6060m, the party found steep 70º ice and decided to retreat because of the difficulty and deteriorating weather. So, the true summit of Balden Lharmo and interesting routes on its southeast and north faces remain untouched. Calculations using data from multiple satellites confirm that the summit is 6090m.

Photograph 23: Looking up the glacier to the Canadian Cirque. Balden Lhamo (Rongdo III) is left of center and the north face of unclimbed Rongdo IV is right of center [Photograph: Graham Rowbotham].

2) Chamba (Rongdo II) The 2012 Canadian-American expedition made the first ascent via the southeast glacier (see Photograph 24). The summit is between 6170m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6225m (based on satellite data). No other attempts have been made and the unclimbed north face is shown in Photograph 25.

Photograph 24: The south faces of Ngapo Kangri (Rongdo I) on the left and Chamba (Rongdo II), seen from the summit of Balden Lhamo West. The west ridge of Ngapo Kangri stretches to the left in the photograph [Photograph: Joie Seagram].

Photograph 25: Right of center is the unclimbed north face of Chamba (Rongdo II) photographed during the descent from Phokto Scheyok. In the foreground is the Sagtogpa Glacier and col [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

3) Ngapo Kangri (Rongdo I) Two climbers from the 2012 Canadian-American expedition made the first ascent via the southerly slopes, climbing talus and rock, and then the southeast aspect. They reported that the southeast aspect is avalanche prone. This was a 14-hour round trip. Another pair from the same expedition tried climbing the west (rock) ridge but abandoned their attempt 60m below the corniced summit. Two days later, the first ascent of the west ridge and the second ascent of Ngapo Kangri was made by other members of the expedition. Their route, on the west ridge, started on loose talus (see Photographs 22 and 50) but much higher up offered interesting rock-climbing on solid granite. The height of the mountain is 6350m (the same value was reported by the first ascensionists as was calculated using satellite data). The north face of Ngapo Kangri is unclimbed. It offers steep snow and ice routes between the steep rock buttresses that straddle the summit ridge. The face should be treated with caution, however, as 2016 and 2018 expeditions to Phokto Scheyok both commented that the north face of Ngapo Kangri is prone to slab avalanches (see Photograph 26).

Photograph 26: The unclimbed north face of Ngapo Kangri (Rongdo I) seen from the ABC used for the ascent of Phokto Scheyok (approximate coordinates of ABC: 34°31'30.31"N; 78° 0'25.31"E). Note the avalanche debris in the center [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

4) Gazgazri Two climbers from the 2012 Canadian-American expedition made the first ascent via the southwest ridge and icy south face (Photograph 27). They reported that the climb and descent took a total of 14 hours and involved a section of 70º hard ice. In 2013, an IAF expedition made an attempt via the 45º northwest ridge but turned back at 5990m in bad weather. At the time of their attempt and when they wrote their report, the IAF thought that they were on an unclimbed mountain and even proposed the name ‘Lungkhor Kangri’ (Sashindran, 2014b), later realising that it was a second attempt (Sashindran, 2014a). The height of Gazgazri is between 6160m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6235m (calculated using satellite data).

Photograph 27: Gazgazri: the first ascensionists climbed the southwest ridge facing the camera, before traversing onto the icy south face [Photograph: Andy Selters].

Photograph 28: Telephoto shot of the south-east face of Gazgazri seen behind the characteristic long ridge of Langpoche [Photograph:Tsewang Gyalson].

5) Sa’i Lhamo The 2013 IAF expedition made the first ascent of this peak via the southwest ridge, with 13 mountaineers reaching the summit (Photograph 29). The IAF team found difficult snow and ice conditions and dangerous cornices near the summit. The height of the mountain is between 6030m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6015m (calculated using satellite data). A French group made the second ascent in 2016 via the easy northwest ridge (Lafforgue, 2020), a 19-hour trip from their advance basecamp at 5250m. The French recorded a height of 6033m.

Photograph 29: View from the summit of Phokto Scheyok looking west to the glacier flowing from Sa’i Lhamo’s summit (left of center). The mountain in the foreground on the far right is Langpoche [Photograph: Tsewang Gyalson].

Photograph 30: View of Sa’i Lhamo (center) taken from the west, talus ridge of Ngapo Kangri (Rongdo I). The elongated dark ridge on the right leads to the summit of Langpoche [Photograph: Tsewang Gyalson].

6) Khyung Kangri A large group from the 2013 IAF expedition made the first ascent of this peak via a south spur and then the north-facing slope (Photograph 31). The height of the mountain is between 6183m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6190m (calculated using satellite data). No known other attempts have been made on this peak and, for instance, the steep north face is untouched. In the right conditions, which would probably mean winter, the north face gullies could offer interesting ice-climbing.

Photograph 31: On the right is the south-west face of Khyung Kangri with Chu Skeyes Kangri on the horizon and Langpoche to the left [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

Photograph 32: The upper south face of Khyung Kangri with the tongue of the South East Shukpa Kunchang Glacier in the foreground [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

7) Chu Skeyes Kangri This mountain has a relatively long approach from the top of the Rongdo Valley. As the first ascensionists are not believed to have taken photographs, only distant views are currently available (e.g. Photograph 31). Chu Skeyes was climbed by a large group from the IAF in 2013 via the long easterly spur with a rock section and a 60º slope near the summit, where a rope was fixed. The height of the mountain is between 6053m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6035m (calculated using satellite data). No other attempts have been made on this mountain, the name of which means lotus.

8) Langpoche Named ‘elephant head’ because of its characteristic, trunk-like ridge clearly seen in Photograph 33, this peak is probably just under 6000m (the first ascensionists measured 5968m and a calculation with satellite data put it at 5950m). The peak was climbed by the IAF in 2013, via the east spur, in a very fast time of about two hours. No other attempts have been made.

Photograph 33: In the center is the long dark ridge leading to the summit of Langpoche. Directly behind and slightly left of center is the white triangle of Gazgazri. On the horizon, right of centre is the peak Chu Skeyes Kangri. On the right is the summit of Khyung Kangri [Photograph: Tsewang Gyalson].

9) Odgsal I The peaks of the Odgsal massive (Photograph 34) can be approached from the Chhurn Nangma valley, passing the hot springs. The 2013 IAF team established their ABC near the massive (see Map 1) and from there climbed Odgsal I, reporting slopes up to 60º. The height of the mountain is between 6234m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6210m (calculated using satellite data).

Photograph 34: Two of the three peaks of the Odgsal massive [Photograph: IAF Marking India Expedition 2013].

10) Odgsal II This was climbed via the east face by the 2013 IAF expedition. This team had six weeks in the Rongdo Valley and were able to relocate their camps on multiple occasions, in order to explore and make many first ascents. As a military expedition, they had access to the detailed 1:50,000 SOI maps and they included a hand-drawn excerpt in one of their reports (Sashindran, 2016b), which gives some of the local names for streams and glaciers. The height of Odgsal II is between 6028m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 5985m (calculated using satellite data). No further attempts have been made on this peak.

11) Charok Kangri The location of this peak was initially unclear but on Map 1 it is correctly shown as being to the west of Rongdo IV. The confusion resulted from a photograph published in the American Alpine Journal (Photograph 35), labelled wrongly as Charok Kangri. The photograph shows the characteristically-shaped ‘Rock Wedge’, which can be seen from the hot springs, south of the Chhurn Nangma stream (see Photograph 21). Charok Kangri was climbed in 2013 via steep slopes up to 70º, with a rope fixed for the last 25m. The height of the mountain is between 6122m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6145m (calculated using satellite data). The north face looks challenging (Photograph 37) but no further attempts have been made on this peak.

Photograph 35: An image published in Sashindran (2014a) but wrongly labelled as ‘Charok Kangri’. Actually, it shows the ‘Rock Wedge’ peak to the south east of the hot springs (see Photograph 21). The peak labelled ‘Charok Kangri’ is an unclimbed point on a ridge that connects to Amitabha [Photograph: IAF Marking India Expedition 2013].

Photograph 36: IAF summiteers approaching the summit of Charok Kangri. [Photograph: IAF Marking India Expedition 2013].

Photograph 37: The peak on the left is Charok Kangri with its unclimbed north face [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

12) Mariushri This peak is reached at the head of the main Rongdo Valley, beyond Sa’i Lhamo, Phokto Scheyok and Khyung Kangri (see Map 1). It was climbed solo 2014 via the south face and southwest ridge. The height is between 6167m (first ascensionist’s GPS value) and 6165m (calculated using satellite data). No further attempts have been made on this peak.

Figure 38: Panorama photograph looking north from the summit of Phokto Scheyok. The large mountain slightly left of centre is Khyung Kangri, with the long ridge of Langpoche to the left. On the extreme right is the rocky pinnacle capping the snowy south face of Tara. Marisushri and unclimbed X2 are to the left of Tara [Photograph: Tsewang Gyalson].

13) Tara This peak is approached from the SE Shukpa Kunchang Glacier, at the head of the Rongdo Valley. It has been ascended twice. The Canadian 2014 expedition placed their ABC below the northwest face (Photograph 39) and then climbed the rocky north ridge. In 2015 an Indian civilian expedition made what they thought was the first ascent of ‘Nga Kangri’ (Muni, 2018a) but was a second ascent of Tara. The height of the mountain is between 6248m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6305m (calculated using satellite data).

Photograph 39: The Canadians’ ABC below the northwest face of Tara [Photograph: Graham Rowbotham].

Photograph 40: Tara, looking north from the summit of Phokto Scheyok, showing the snowy south face topped by a rock pyramid [Photograph: Keith Goffin]

14) Amitabha This peak is best approached from the hot springs, following the Chhurn Namgma stream. It was climbed solo⸺an impressive ascent⸺by Graham Rowbotham from the 2014 Canadian expedition. The route followed the northwest face and northwest ridge (Photographs 41 and 42). The unclimbed north face has interesting ice lines (Seagram, 2015b) (see Photograph 42). The first ascensionist’s GPS gave a height of 6335m but a calculation with various satellite data indicates the peak might be 6415m high. It is interesting to note that the SOI, presumably around 1854, wrongly measured the height of Amitabha as 22,660 feet (6906m) and this mistake was duplicated on the American AMS maps. The latest SOI maps apparently show a spot height of 6415m, which matches the value calculated using various satellite data.

Photograph 41: The start of the route on Amitabha [Photograph: Graham Rowbotham].

Photograph 42: Amitabha’s northwest ridge leads up from the right. The impressive north face is unclimbed [Photograph: Graham Rowbotham].

15) Rangston Gyathok The upper Shyok river would give easy access but the military road is restricted, as it passes within 5km of the border to Chinese-controlled territory. This forced an Estonian expedition to make a long glacier approach from the upper Rongdo Valley. The large Estonian team made the first ascent via the southwest ridge and south face (Suurväli, 2019). The height of the peak is between 6801m (first ascensionists’ GPS

32 value) and 6770m (calculated using satellite data). No other attempts have been made and so the interesting south face is untouched (Photograph 44).

Photograph 43: Approaching the impressive Rangston Gyathok 6801m from the south via several glaciers [Photograph: Kristjan-Erik Suurväli]

Photograph 44: The unclimbed south east face of Rangston Gyathok [Photograph: Kristjan-Erik Suurväli].

16) Phokto Scheyok This peak is at the head of the main Rongdo Valley and can be approached from Rongdo Village in three days, by parties that are well-acclimatized. The best location for a basecamp is at the tongue of the South East Shukpa Kunchang Glacier (see Photograph 22). It was climbed in 2018 via the south west face, by two members of a small British-German expedition with a Ladakhi friend. It had been previously attempted in 2014 and 2015. The name Phokto Scheyok means Black Pyramid in Ladakhi and the elderly father of the Rongdo horseman on the expedition confirmed that this local (and apt) name has been used for generations. The height of Phokto Scheyok between 6235m (first ascensionists’ GPS value) and 6230m (calculated using satellite data).

Photograph 45: Phokto Scheyok⸺Black Pyramid Peak⸺dominates the view in the upper Rongdo Valley [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

17) Tashispa Ri This peak is on the watershed between Tsati and Rongdo and can be accessed from either valley. A 2019 Indian expedition (Muni, 2020) made their approach from Tsatti but reported that climbing up the true-right side of the Spangchenmo river was slow and dangerous. A base camp was established on the Lung Tang Glacier. The ascent of Tashispa (‘Good Furtune Mountain’) was via the northern ridge. Only a preliminary expedition report is available but this details a number of interesting peaks, which the 2019 expedition had planned to climb. Heavy August snow made this impossible. The height of Tashispa Ri is about 6104m (first ascensionists’ GPS value). No further attempts have been made on this peak but the area of the Lung Tang Glacier offers a lot of potential, with several peaks overlooking the Rongdo Valley.

Photograph 46: Tashispa Ri (6104 m), which was climbed from the left skyline (northern) ridge. [Photograph: Divyesh Muni].

Table 2: Significant Unclimbed Mountains in the Rongdo Valley (as of June 2020). # Peak name1 / Height4 (Olizane / SOI Coordinates5 Previous attempts / details of route(s) if References ‘Translation’ or / Jurgalski) known explanation2 / Alternative names3 1 Rongdo IV4 / -- / -- 6190m / 6185m / 34°28'59.96"N Unclimbed, no known attempts / Steep and Seagram (2013a/b). 6240m 78° 0'37.18"E challenging ice on unclimbed north face. 2 Satti Kangri / -- / -- 6520m / 6639m / 34°31'12.01"N Unclimbed, no known attempts / Impressive peak Muni (2006); 6655m 77°52'28.68"E with steep faces on three sides. Can be Anonymous (2015, p46). approached from Satti Valley or the southeast face is possible from Rongdo via the Koyak Glacier (warning: Olizane shows the Koyak Glacier in the wrong position). 3 Unnamed peak above 6110m / 6155m / 34°28'45.53"N Unclimbed, no known attempts (wrongly labelled Anonymous (2015, p46); Rongdo Gompa 6195m 77°50'57.11"E as ‘Fatha 6110’ on Olizane map / Approach from Goffin (2019). (hermitage) / -- / Fatha the Gompa might be difficult and north face (Olizane) appears steep. 4 Yonchap Kangri / seven 6080m / 6115m / 34°24'3.59"N Unclimbed, no known attempts / Beautiful peak Anonymous (2015, p46). bowl water offering to gods 6110m 77°52'47.98"E that can be clearly seen from the upper sections / -- of the Rongdo Valley. Challenging but direct approach from shepherds’ huts at Doksa. North face is steep ice with hanging glaciers. 5 Peak X2 / -- / -- 6160m / 6203m / 34°34'35.90"N Unclimbed, no known attempts / Attractive peak Poulter (2016a/b/c). 6203m 77°59'13.62"E with interesting routes such as the east face or the southeast ridge. Steep north face. 6 Balden Lhamo / named -- / 6180m / 6165m 34°29'2.56"N Unclimbed, one attempt on August 27th 2012 / via Seagram (2013a/b). after a goddess / Rongdo 78° 3'1.08"E the col between Balden Lharmo and Peak III4 6160m. 7 Island Peak / -- / -- -- / 6245m / 6225m 34°28'29.95"N Unclimbed, no known attempts / Northwest and Sashindran (2016b). 78° 3'47.50"E southwest faces appear possible. 8 Odgsal III / ‘Clear light III’ / -- / 6020m / 6080m 34°26'48.92"N Unclimbed, no known attempts / South face Sashindran (2014a/b/c). -- 78° 2'33.09"E appears to be the obvious route. 9 Point 6064 / -- / -- 6064m / 6135m / 34°29'22.40"N7 Unclimbed, no known attempts / Steep and Goffin (2019). 6130m 7°59'6.55"E technical rock, with regular rockfall observed in summer 2018. An alternative route in suitable conditions would be steep snow and ice slopes and skirting the hanging glacier.

10 Unnamed Peak near 6190m / 6130m / -- 34°26'36.97"N7 North and south summits considered by the IAF Sashindran (2014c) Amitabha 7°57'15.67"E but no known attempts / Attractive peak to the south of Amitabha with challenging northeast face. 1The names of mountains from maps or preliminary names given in expedition reports are shown non-bold. 2Approximate translations of the Tibetan and Ladakhi names are given, where known. 3Most unclimbed peaks are unnamed but have sometimes been given preliminary names in expedition reports. . 4Spot heights on maps can be inaccurate. Therefore, three heights are given here: a) The spot height from the Olizane Map, if given; b) The Survey of India [SOI] spot heights, if known; and c) If available, a peak’s height as calculated by Eberhard Jurgalski, using various satellite data (he makes careful comparisons of various values⸺see http://www.8000ers.com/cms/). Jurgalski’s estimates are the likely to be the most accurate. 5Coordinates were taken from Google Earth and are in WGS84 format. All peaks have been entered into a Google Earth KMZ file, available from [email protected].

SIGNIFICANT UNCLIMBED PEAKS The East Karakoram has much untapped potential, including a complete mountain range with 20 unclimbed, unnamed 6000m peaks. These mountains have probably never ever been visited, except possibly by previous generations of goatherds from a long since deserted village. The opportunities for exploratory mountaineering do not get much better than this! In somewhat of a contrast, the Rongdo Valley is now relatively well-known and nearly every year an expedition makes a visit. Although the initial exploration has been conducted, there are still extensive climbing opportunities. Table 2 lists 10 interesting peaks, which are identified as unclimbed based on information available as of June 2020. It is a selection and is by no means a comprehensive list. Enterprising climbers who are willing to conduct research and explore will find other possibilities.

1) Rongdo IV 6190m This unclimbed peak has what appears to be a reasonably easy southwest face (see Photograph 47), which can be reached via the Dabin Glacier. For attempts of the southwest face, a basecamp, on the Chhurn Nangma above the hot springs would be convenient. The IAF reported that the first section of the Dabin Glacier is steep, before the bowl shown in Photograph 47 is reached, which offers direct access to the southwest face. The north face of Rongdo IV is far more challenging and complex, with steep snow, ice and rock bands (see Photograph 48).

Photograph 47: On the left, the peak of unclimbed Rongdo IV, with its southwest face, seen from the summit of Charok Kangri. In the foreground is the upper, flat bowl of the Dabin Glacier [Photograph: IAF Marking India Expedition 2013].

Photograph 48: The complex, unclimbed north face of Rongdo IV seen from near the Canadian Cirque [Photograph: Jeff Dolinsky].

2) Satti Kangri 6520m This peak can be approached from the Tsati Valley or from Rongdo. It is a challenging peak with long, steep faces on all sides. The southeast ridge, which can be accessed from Rongdo, is probably the easiest route. Two routes are closest to the Tsati Valley: the long northwest ridge and the south face, which is steep rock of unknown quality. Note that the preliminary report of a 2019 expedition to Tashispa Ri described considerable difficulties in moving along the Tsati Valley, due to a very poor path across loose slopes and a challenging crossing of the Spangchenmo river near Yarlas (Muni, 2020). This probably means that the safer but longer access route for Satti Kangri is from Rongdo, following the Koyak Togpo to the Koyak Glacier area. This area appears to be a good location for a base camp, as there are several moderate nearby unclimbed peaks in addition to the challenging Satti Kangri. The 2019 Indian expedition led by Divyesh Muni that climbed nearby Tashispa Ri took interesting photographs of several unclimbed peaks, which will be included in their upcoming report.

Photograph 49: Beautiful Satti Kangri [Photograph: Divyesh Muni].

3) Unnamed Peak above Rongdo Gompa 6110m What is wrongly named as ‘Fatha’ peak on the Olizane map is a peak of about 6110m (Olizane spot height). The name Fatha apparently applies to the area and not the peak itself. For mountaineers wanting to climb the 6110m peak itself, access might be difficult, as the side valley behind Rongdo Gompa is steep and narrow. The Gompa is actually a hermitage visited by a lama every month and it is here that water offerings are made that give Yonchap Kangri its name. Interestingly, the GTS surveyor William Johnson placed one of his observation stations in the Fatha area in 1854, at an impressive height of 19,177 feet (5845m). It would be a challenging but interesting task for a future mountaineering expedition to investigate whether the place where the theodolite was mounted could still be identified. Typically, the survey teams required two days at a station and so they may have left artefacts, or even a formal ‘trig point’.

Photograph 50: View from the upper Rongdo Valley of Satti Kangri (summit hid by cloud) and the Fatha area. The cairn is one of several on the west ridge of Ngapo Kangri, indicating that shepherds have climbed high on this ridge for years [Photograph: Tsewang Gyalson].

4) Yonchap Kangri 6080m This peak dominates the view at Doksa but to approach it would require a steep climb from the main Rongdo Valley and potentially rock climbing on slabs to reach the impressive snow and ice face. The mountain’s north face has granite slabs and then a large snow and ice face. The name, which translates roughly to ‘seven bowl water offering to the gods’ is connected with the water offerings made at the Rongdo Gompa. Probably, the local name refers to the peak shown in Photograph 50, whereas the main summit cannot be seen from Doksa.

Figure 51: Unclimbed Yonchap Kangri (34°24'3.59"N; 77°52'47.98"E) seen from 2000m below at the shepherds’ huts at Doksa. The main summit is hidden and around 6080m. This is an enlargement of Photograph 15 [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

Photograph 52: Yonchap Kangri seen from high up the valley, following a storm. The main summit is in cloud to the left [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

5) Peak X2 6160m This peak has a relatively long approach, passing to between Phokto Scheyok (to the south) and Khyung Kangri (to the north), then turning west. The preliminary name X2 was assigned by the 2015 British expedition, which was supported financially by the Mount Everest Foundation. This was their second objective. Due to poor weather, they run out of time and, so, did not time to either approach or attempt X2 (Poulter, 2016b). The routes on the east face or the southeast ridge both look promising.

Photograph 53: View looking north-east from the summit of Mariushri. X2 is the peak in the middle ground on the right, with a glacier bowl and rock-ice headwall. The large attractive peak right of center on the horizon is Arganglas Kangri [Photograph: Graham Rowbotham].

6) Balden Lhamo (Rongdo III) 6180m The approach to this peak is straightforward, following the relatively flat glacier seen in Photograph 23, which leads to the ‘Canadian Cirque’. In 2012, a Canadian- American expedition made an attempt. They “headed up the main glacier [and]… placed a high camp at 5690m … [and] got to a col at 6,060m above the icy headwall but retreated in the face of poor weather and more technical ice that we were prepared to climb” (Seagram, 2013a). Photograph 54 shows a view of Balden Lhamo from the summit of Chamba (Rongdo II), with the most suitable route climbing to the col between Peak 6160 and Balden Lhamo and then up the north ridge.

Photograph 54: View from the slopes of Chamba looking southeast. In the middle ground is an unnamed, unclimbed 6160m peak, behind which and slightly to the right is the north face of Balden Lhamo, with a hanging glacier on the face below the ridge. Directly behind is the snow dome of Island Peak. Balden Lhamo West is in the middle ground on the extreme right [Photograph: Jeff Dolinsky].

Photograph 55: View from the summit of Chamba looking south. The complex, north face of Rongdo IV is on the extreme right. Balden Lhamo West is in the middle ground to the left. In the centre behind Balden Lhamo is the Odgsal massive [Photograph: Jeff Dolinsky].

7) Island Peak 6245m The best approach to this peak is along the side valley of the Chhurn Nangma, above the hot springs and passing the characteristic ‘Rock Wedge’ peak (see Photograph 21). Island Peak is to the southeast of and connected by a ridge to the main summit of Balden Lhamo. It was given its preliminary name on a hand-drawn map included in an IAF expedition report, although no attempt was made on the mountain (Sashindran, 2016b). A photograph taken from the slopes of Chamba (Photograph 54) gives a distant but currently the best available view of Island Peak.

8) Odgsal III 6020m The Odgsal massive is also best approached walking east along the Chhurn Nangma, above the hot springs, passing the characteristic ‘Rock Wedge’ peak (see Photograph 5), and then turning south. A base camp can be located near the glacier lake below the massive. The IAF planned to attempt Odgsal III on their 35-day 2013 expedition but decided against it, due to unstable snow on the western face of the peak. As shown in Photograph 56, the west face (facing the camera) is the obvious route for Odgsal III. The peak that is connected by a ridge from Odgsal III is unclimbed and has a height of about 6038m (Google Earth reading).

Photograph 56: IAF photograph taken from near the summit of Odgsal I looking along the ridge to unclimbed Odgsal III (left). The peaks in the center middle ground and background are also unclimbed [Photograph: IAF Marking India Expedition 2013].

9) Point 6064 This peak dominates the view southwest from the 5375m basecamp used for Phokto Scheyok. It is easily approached from the glacier that leads to the Canadian Cirque. The north face has a hanging glacier between impressive rock buttresses. In 2018, possible routes were observed to be prone to regular, heavy rock- and ice-fall. Therefore, no attempt was made on this peak although permission had been granted to a small British-German expedition by the IMF. The north face might be a better prospect in winter. The south face, directly above the hot springs would be much easier, following steep talus slopes.

Photograph 57: Phokto Scheyok basecamp at 5375m with view of Point 6064m (slightly left of center: 34°29'22.74"N; 77°59'6.70"E). The other peaks are (from the left) Rongdo IV and Charok Kangri. Note the early morning fresh snow in July [Photograph: Keith Goffin].

10) Unnamed Peak near Amitabha 6190m South of Amitabha is an attractive peak (Photograph 58). The main (south) summit is about 6190m high (Olizane spot height) connected by a ridge to slightly lower, snow pyramid (about 6086m on Google Earth). Both summits can be accessed from the Tara Togpo. The IAF explored this valley in 2013, reporting that the snout of the Tara Kangri Glacier is 30m high and difficult to pass (Sashindran (2014c). The IAF considered both the main and south summits but concluded “the sheer rock faces made the ascent from the Rongdu side impossible” (Sashindran, 2014c).

Photograph 58: View from near Sa’i Lhamo looking south across two valleys. Amitabha is the peak to the left above the hot springs valley (Chhurn Nangma). The attractive, unnamed peak on the right has a main (north) summit connected by a narrow ridge to its south summit (shown on the extreme right). Both summits can be reached from the valley leading to the Tara Kangri Glacier [Photograph: Jeff Dolinsky].

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APPENDIX The picture below shows a section of the annotations added to the Google Earth satellite images of the Rongdo Valley. Peaks which have been climbed are marked as red triangles, unclimbed are marked green and other symbols are used for base camps (BC), etc. The full kmz file of annotations is available on request from [email protected].