Issue 58 - Summer 2017

THE WAINWRIGHT SOCIETY MAGAZINE

A new exhibition at Keswick Museum The Wainwrights in Colour – Journey’s End The 14th Annual General Meeting of The Wainwright Society Encounters with Wainwright – Robert ‘Bob’ Walker Peanuts and Pennies – Part 2 Walking the 214 – by bus pass and much much more ...

THE SOCIETY FOR LOVERS OF THE

LAKE DISTRICT AND FELLWALKING www.wainwright.org.uk Wainwright Society members get Note from the Editorial Team 25% off titles at Frances Lincoln! As usual, this Summer issue includes a wide range of articles and features. Inevitably, © Terry Abraham many are retrospective – reporting on WAINWRIGHT’S WALKING GUIDE TO WAINWRIGHT’S GUIDE TO THE LAKE recent events such as the Society walk to THE BOOK 4: DISTRICT : and the AGM later that day, THE THE while others nostalgically recall memories from long ago. Revised by Clive Hutchby Revised by Clive Hutchby Among the latter are Jack Woods’ recollections of his first visit to the Lake District, as a schoolboy in 1955, and Ossie Hopkins’ and Malcolm Pinder’s account of completing their 214 over seven decades – a venture that started in that same year (I do so like coincidences!). of Clive Hutchby’s revision of The Southern Fells Another excellent story is by Mike Birney, who and of a Lake District quiz book produced by a has completed five rounds of the 214, including Society member. A longer-term opportunity to one in true Wainwright style – travelling only by win prizes is given in the article on page 9 about bus (and shanks’ pony, of course). the 2017 Photographic Competition. This issue is not, however, without news of a prize winner, Alan Thomas has written another well- Val Wilkinson, who took part in the Peanuts and £12.99 isbn 9781781011911 £13.99 isbn 9780711236578 researched article in the Book Dedications Pennies challenge set in the Winter 2016/7 issue. series, this one on Harry Griffin – a friend of WAINWRIGHT’S GUIDE TO THE AW’s and a significant figure in mountaineering, In all, another full issue which we hope you will LAKE DISTRICT FELLS: A WALKER’S NOTEBOOK walking and journalism circles. Bob Walker is enjoy. Have a good summer! By not such a household name, but was a much THE David Johnson – Editor closer friend of AW’s and helped him with his Andrew Stainthorpe – Graphic Designer Revised by Clive Hutchby researches for the Pictorial Guides. An extract from this story, told in full in Encounters with Wainwright, is on pages 12-13. SOCIETY CONTACTS Also included are articles about Andy Beck’s recently published Wainwrights in Colour, a • SOCIETY SECRETARY new exhibition at Keswick Museum – Life of Derek Cockell, The New House, a Mountain , and a related article Station Road, Bishops Lydeard, on AW’s appreciation of that . Taunton, Somerset TA4 3BU Tel: 01823 431698 The Spring issue of Footsteps was unusual in that it Email: [email protected] contained no quiz or competition, but the Summer issue is back to normal with chances to win copies • MEMBERSHIP SECRETARY Richard Daly, The Wainwright Society, £12.99 isbn 9780711236554 £7.99 isbn 9780711235458 PO Box 35, Milnthorpe, LA7 7WJ Issue 58 - Summer 2017 Email: [email protected] To take advantage of your discount, please visit our website www.QuartoKnows.com THE WAINWRIGHT SOCIETY MAGAZINE • WALKS ORGANISER and, where prompted, enter the promotional code WAINSOC (case sensitive) Front cover photograph: Caroline Nichol – Tel: 01253 738721 Summer mists from Email: [email protected] Blease Fell to A new exhibition at Keswick Museum The Wainwrights in Colour – Journey’s End • FOOTSTEPS EDITORIAL TEAM ©Terry Abraham The 14th Annual General Meeting of The Wainwright Society Encounters with Wainwright – Robert ‘Bob’ Walker Email: [email protected] Peanuts and Pennies – Part 2 Walking the 214 – by bus pass and much much more ...

THE SOCIETY FOR LOVERS OF THE LAKE DISTRICT AND FELLWALKING

www.wainwright.org.uk

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Chairman’s Notes

Well, the books have started to arrive had the sense to back off. Her response was an in preparation for judging the 2017 abject apology. Wainwright Prize, celebrating the best CONISTON TORVER SAWREY LANGDALE writing on the outdoors, nature and UK ‘Please go ahead as you are and we will re-think travel. But, while the heaps of hopefuls get our design accordingly.’ bigger and my postman gets a hernia, I’m reminded of a spat between AW and his I wonder if the authors gathering on my desk editor at Michael Joseph, Jenny Dereham, with their eye on the Wainwright Prize have who had written to outline her production their publishers wrapped quite so tightly round plans for the first of a series of glossy books their little finger! illustrated with photographs by Derry Editor’s note: It should be noted that AW’s long letter, Brabbs. Wainwright’s reply was blistering. partly quoted above, ended with ‘Despite all this ‘I am horrified at the emphasis being given to the acrimonious argument, please be assured that you cost of publication by the counting of pennies. still have my very best wishes.’ Jenny Dereham is a Your intention should be a perfect book, full member of the Footsteps team and has commented stop, not a book as perfect as finances permit that ‘she responds to this public humiliation by saying ... You have knocked the stuffing out of me. she was only passing on instructions from the Design Wedding I like to feel free to do as I think best, not to department, and that we hadn’t then had the joy of work in harness imposed by designers who seeing AW’s typescript which was typed so every word Venue may never have been out on hills and have no would fit onto the page round the space left for the feeling for them … I have no interest in doing specific view he wanted Derry to photograph.’ a book I cannot feel proud of. If you persist in taking advice from your staff and not from me, I am afraid I must consider pulling out of our With magnificent views, our unique venue at The Coppermines Mountain Cottages arrangement, much though I need the money make a truly memorable location for any special occasion for a good cause.’

WELC Ouch! Fortunately for Animal Rescue Cumbria, TS OM Eric Robson PE E We support which was the good cause in question, and for Chairman The Lake District Cottages us, Wainwright’s growing legion of fans, Jenny Cottages sleep from 2-35 people Hot Tubs Village, Country & Mountain Cottages Wi-Fi Couples, Families, Groups & Weddings Log Fires A new exhibition at Keswick Museum

Presented jointly by Society honorary Entry to the exhibition member Terry Abraham and Keswick is included in the The Coppermines & Lakes Cottages Museum, Life of a Mountain BLENCATHRA is museum’s admission /TheCopperminesLakesCottages an exhibition now on until 4 January 2018. charge (which provides The Estate Office, The Bridge free entry visits for a Coniston LA21 8HJ @Coppermines Topics covered include history, farming, mining, 12-month period). fell hounds, mountain rescue, as well as walking T. 015394 41765 @Coniston_Coppermines and climbing. Featured will be the eponymous film by Terry Abraham. The Society has assisted the museum with information about AW’s strong www.coppermines.co.uk association with Blencathra – see page 10.

5 The 14th Annual General Meeting of The Wainwright Society

Fifty-six members attended the fourteenth The AGM commenced at 3 pm with Eric Robson Annual General Meeting of The Wainwright in the Chair welcoming members to the meeting. Society held at the Village Hall, Staveley, In his report, he highlighted the notable events of on Saturday 25 March 2017. 2016 including the Wainwright Prize where the Society took part in the judging process for the Prior to the AGM, John Bewick introduced Sean award for outdoor, nature or UK travel writing. Day, Director of the Lake District Calvert Trust, The winner in 2016 was Amy Liptrot with The the Society’s main beneficiary for 2016. Sean Outrun. The Challenge raised £1,500 showed members a short DVD about the work for the Calvert Trust, which was presented to of the Trust and then went on to give details of the Trust at the Bowderstone Bothy in May. the renovation of the Bowderstone Bothy (see the The Wainwright Exhibition, held for a second Spring 2016 issue of Footsteps). This project has year at Keswick Museum, was supported by the been made possible by donations including £10,500 Society. The Wainwright Memorial Lecture in raised by the Society during its Challenge event and October, with guest speaker Richard Else, was a from sales of the Society’s calendar in 2016. great success with Richard telling a near sell-out Sean explained that the bothy, formerly leased audience at Rheged about his long association to a mountaineering club, will be adapted to with Wainwright during the 1980s when he was meet the needs of the Trust’s disabled visitors. the director of the films made for the BBC. In September, the Society purchased six items at Eric also presented David Harrison with a The work is expected to be completed by framed photograph of his winning entry in the volunteers during 2017 and, when finished, will the auction of Wainwright artefacts being sold by . These unique items Society’s Themed Class (Limestone Country) of mean that up to twelve people at a time will be the competition able to experience a night ‘in the wild’, with the will be deposited on loan with the Wainwright bothy being used as a base for various activities, Archive at . David also won Best in Show and received a including abseiling in Bowderstone quarry. framed landscape photograph taken by the judge, Derry Brabbs. Sean concluded his presentation by thanking members of the Society for their valuable Eric concluded by thanking Derry Brabbs, the support during the past year. judge of the competition for the past fourteen The Secretary also reported back to members years, who is retiring this year (see page 9). about the Coast to Coast National Trail campaign, John Bewick thanked Sean for his interesting which is supported by the Society; the opening talk and this was followed by the presentation Following the Chairman’s report, there was the of Wainwright Way in Blackburn attended by the of a cheque for £10,500 by Eric Robson, Nick annual election of Officers of the Society. Eric Secretary and members of the Wainwright family; Holmes and Caroline Nichol. Robson was re-elected Chairman of the Society, the siting of two Wainwright installations on the Derek Cockell was confirmed as Secretary and Way, with support and advice by the Ian Newton as Treasurer. Other members of Society and, finally, an update on the Society’s the Committee were re-elected in their various response to National Grid’s proposal to site capacities. pylons to the south of the Lake District National Park and around the head of the Duddon estuary, There were reports about Society Membership which the Society vehemently opposes. (by Peter Linney on behalf of Richard Daly), Eric Robson presents Terry Abraham with his prize Society Development (John Bewick), Encounters At the conclusion of the meeting, the Chairman with Wainwright (David Johnson), Finance (Ian thanked members for attending. Newton) and Society Walks (Caroline Nichol). During his report, the Chairman presented Derek Cockell Terry Abraham with a framed photograph of his The meeting ended with the Secretary’s report, Secretary winning entry in the Society’s Themed Class of which included a publicity update and details of Caroline, Eric, Sean Day and Nick the Photographic Competition. the 2017 Memorial Lecture with Clive Hutchby. Photographs by Andrew Stainthorpe

6 7 The Lake District Quiz Book The 2017 Photographic Competition

If you enjoy a good quiz and pride yourself 4. Which tarn was put on sale by the National Following the retirement of Derry Brabbs on your knowledge of the Lake District, Park Authority with a guide price of £20,000– as judge of the Photographic Competition, here’s a book for you. Society member £30,000 in February 2015? the Committee has reviewed the format of David Felton has produced The Lake the competition and has decided that there 5. On which fell District Quiz Book (£6.99), which is readily will be one class. will you find a available and contains 635 ‘fiendish’ Buttress, Slab questions, six of which are shown below. We are very pleased to announce that Honorary and waterspout? Member, Terry Abraham, has agreed to judge Two copies of the book, kindly donated by David 6. In March 1989 the 2017 Photographic Competition, the rules Felton, are offered as prizes for the first two correct Alfred Wainwright for which are as follows: entries drawn from the hat. Send your answers, reluctantly • The location of photographs should be by 15 July, to [email protected] or by appeared on in areas that Wainwright is associated with mail to David Johnson at 18 Pease Way, Histon, BBC Radio 4’s e.g. Lake District, Yorkshire Dales, Howgills, Cambridge, CB24 9YZ. Desert Island Pennines, Scotland (Highlands & Islands) etc. Discs. What 1. Which fell has a western flank named • Photographs should be submitted in digital Willie Wife Moor? did he choose as his luxury format only Derry Brabbs receiving the plaque from Peter Linney 2. What lake name is derived from the Norse item? • Members may submit up to three meaning ‘Lake frequented by swans’? photographs, with their name, membership with the following quotation by Alfred Wainwright 3. What is the main ingredient in a Cumberland number and the title of photographs included from his introduction to Wainwright’s Favourite Tattie Pie? • Entries to be submitted by Sunday 14 Lakeland Mountains: ‘I have been persuaded to January 2018 put pen to paper once more because of the excellent services of my young collaborator, • Photographs should be emailed to Derry Brabbs, whose pictures are more evocative [email protected] Since 1957 generations of than my written words.’ one store families have been coming to A confirmation of receipt will be emailed, and George Fisher, located in the As can be seen from the photograph, Derry was members should follow up if this is not received delighted to receive the gift and wrote this note heart of Keswick, to prepare within a week. ABRAHAM’S CAFÉ so much themselves for outdoor to all Society members: adventure. PRIZES TO BE AWARDED AS FOLLOWS: Dear members, JUNIOR boot exchange to explore Five floors showcase the very best outdoor gear and Winner: The winner’s own photograph will I was intensely moved by the amazing gift I received the boot room equipment needed to face the be framed, and a certificate awarded. A signed, from Peter on behalf of The Wainwright Society this Lake District’s often inclement framed landscape print by Terry Abraham, will morning. It instantly brought back so many memories in=store boot of my time with AW and I just cannot begin to tell podiatry fitting weather! also be awarded to the winner. guide books you how much this means to me. It has instantly And whatever Mother Nature Runner-up: The runner-up’s own photograph leapfrogged my Canon camera to be awarded ‘most & maps Rucksacks is up to, our enthusiastic staff will be framed, and a certificate awarded. treasured possession’ status and I thank you all from are on hand with a welcoming & Travel Highly commended: (if any) Certificate the bottom of my heart for the generous thought and I waterproofs smile and expert advice. am so sorry not to have been at the AGM to receive it Shopping done, head to in person but I was struggling with some foul weather insulation, running & baselayers DERRY BRABBS GPS & Navigation centre Abraham’s Café on the top in Italy that weekend. Thank you again. Derry floor for a refreshing beverage At the AGM in March, Eric Robson paid tribute and a tasty treat, while you to Derry’s many years of unstinting service to the Derek Cockell – Secretary climbing equipment plan your next adventure. Society during which he judged over one thousand tents & sleeping bags entries to the competition. Derry was unable to attend the AGM, but later Peter Linney www.georgefisher.co.uk | 2 Road, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5DA | 017687 72178 presented him with a slate plaque, inscribed

9

The Wainwrights in Colour – Journey’s End

It may have become a cliché but, for Society member Andy Beck, it was valid to describe The Wainwrights in Colour project as a journey, and a long one at that. After all, it took ten years and 1,750 miles of fellwalking, entailing 580,000 feet of ascent, to complete it.

Over the weekend of 5−7 May at Castle Green Hotel in Kendal, Andy launched The Wainwrights in Colour, a weighty tome of 360 pages, which includes a DVD depicting the background story of the project. The book represents the culmination of Andy’s hugely ambitious project to produce watercolour paintings of AW’s 1509 sketches in the Pictorial Guides. Andy at the book launch

Using the Pictorial Guides, Andy located the Andy with Esther and Bailey, celebrating on precise places where AW took a black-and-white photograph which later he followed when he drew his sketches. Andy took colour photographs A very special day was 10 September 2014. This from the same spot, using these back home as was when Andy, accompanied by Esther, Bailey he produced the paintings. Many of the locations (a setter/visla cross), Alan Fentiman (there to film were not easy to find or reach, requiring extensive the occasion) and a small group of invited friends searching and repeated visits. In addition, as AW (myself included) climbed Outerside. In doing so, experienced, progress was often frustrated by Andy completed his second round of the 214 and adverse weather or poor visibility. Bailey completed his 214. Also that day, as shown in my photograph here, Andy obtained his last Andy on Outerside, photographing the last reference Andy Beck went to extraordinary lengths to ensure reference photograph, of from Outerside. the quality of his work. One example is when To cap it, this day was exactly forty-nine years since At the well-attended Friday evening session that I once visited him and he showed me a small AW completed his fieldwork, on Starling , The fells are set out in the order they appear I went to, Andy Beck spoke with passion and painting which was version seven. He had binned for the Pictorial Guides. As Andy has written in his in the Pictorial Guides (from to understandable emotion about the project. He was the six previous paintings because he wasn’t 100% book, an understatement if ever there were one: ), with short descriptive and explanatory gracious in his thanks for the help and support he had happy with them (and this at a time when he ‘It was an emotional day.’ notes on each. In addition, there are some forty received from many people during what had been a was under enormous pressure to complete the articles on diverse subjects such as trees, AW’s roller-coaster ride, with joys and setbacks along the project). Anyone else would have been happy with Over the last ten years, Andy has painstakingly developing style as the Pictorial Guides progressed, way. In particular, he paid tribute to his wife, Esther. the binned ones, but not Andy. produced these 1509 paintings which have been bridges, nights spent on the fells, AW’s self- Andy commented that AW’s first wife had walked used to form framed collages – one for each of portraits, sheep, the Wainwright Society, dry stone out on him, taking their dog, after thirty-five years The object of the project was to show the scenes the 214 Wainwrights. The Wainwrights in Colour walls, mountain rescue, Animal Rescue Cumbria … of marriage, and that he and Esther had celebrated as they are today, not to mirror AW’s sketches. So, contains reproductions of all of these paintings, but their thirty-fifth anniversary the previous week. Andy there are changes (which add to interest), such as much more besides. There are chapters about AW, The book is prefaced by portraits of Zoe (a told the audience, tongue-in-cheek: ‘There are two sky details and ‘missing’ background fells included. the Pictorial Guides, the Beck project – its genesis pointer/springer cross), Zeta (Zoe’s daughter) and reasons she hasn’t walked out on me: she’s not Every painting in the book has a short commentary and how Andy executed his plan and overcame Bailey (mentioned above) and is dedicated to these getting the cat or the dog, and I’ve promised her a and, where there are differences, these are difficulties along the way, and Artist’s Notes which ‘faithful companions who accompanied me in turn sewing machine – that’s if I sell enough books!’ mentioned. describe Andy’s approach as a painter to the project. throughout the whole journey’.

10 11 In the Acknowledgements, Andy includes thanks If my project … helps in some way to keep the As a young man, Bob Walker developed a passion to the late Betty Wainwright and her daughters, works of Alfred Wainwright in the public domain for walking the fells and for moss-collecting – an Jane King and Annie Sellar, for their ‘approval and then I don’t see that as being a bad thing. Do you?’ unusual combination perhaps. He joined the support in this venture’. The book concludes (a police force in , made good progress comprehensive index apart) with Andy’s Personal Before I end this article, I must declare an interest, in his career and in 1954 was put in charge of notes in conclusion. In this, he pays fulsome tribute which is that I have followed this project since its Westmorland CID, based in Kendal. He would to AW and writes: ‘This whole project has been inception and regard Andy Beck as a friend. It is, often have to attend court there and be present at a personal challenge and homage to AW and his however, my opinion that The Wainwrights in Colour official functions in the town and it is likely that this is unsurpassed work in producing the guidebooks … is a beautifully presented and magnificent book, how he first bumped into AW. In any case, by 1956 matching the project which it records. They are they had started going out to the fells together. the result of dedication, determination, skill and passion for the subject that AW himself showed in There were, Robert explained, three reasons Bob with AW, Stac Pollaidh in the background producing the Pictorial Guides. which combined to make AW enjoy going out with his dad. First, Bob would often disappear up some Robert told me that his dad regarded AW as a David Johnson ghyll looking for mosses, while AW was free to do what he was there for – perhaps take photographs very good friend. Rather surprisingly, around 1956 or make notes and sketches – they both liked or 57, apparently AW wasn’t sure whether to More information, including how to obtain solitude. They would meet up later in the day continue his Pictorial Guide project, and Bob had a copy of The Wainwrights in Colour, and on when they were ready to go home to Kendal. encouraged him, saying the hand-written pages and Andy Beck’s other work and projects, can be beautiful sketches were wonderful. found on www.andybeckimages.co.uk The second reason was that Bob had a car and AW’s only alternative for reaching the fells was to Robert said, ‘AW was a gentle, quiet, reserved and (photographs by David Johnson) go by bus. Getting over to the was not gentlemanly person, who didn’t speak a lot. He was straightforward and Bob, having a car, was an ideal softly spoken. I never heard him expressing strong solution. It suited Bob to go there because there opinions or being raucous. He liked his own company. was more rain in the west and therefore more I remember once when my dad and I were walking mossy ghylls to explore. Bob, never happier than at the top of Haweswater and AW was sitting there in when hunting for mosses, became an acknowledged the car park. My dad chatted with him, but AW spoke Encounters with Wainwright bryologist − the term for an expert on mosses. quietly and tried to meld into the background. My dad He was the subject of a Guardian article by Harry was well known in Kendal and would often stop to chat – Robert ‘Bob’ Walker Griffin in March 1958, entitledInspector Moss (this is to people, but when he met Wainwright in the street, it reproduced in his book, A Lifetime of Mountains). was a quick hello and no conversation, but they’d have a good chat back at home.’ The following is an abridged version of the story in Encounters with Wainwright of a The third reason, which Robert considered David Johnson perhaps the most important, was that after they remarkable friendship between AW and Robert Photographs courtesy of Robert Walker Walker, a local police inspector. AW dedicated had been on the fells together, AW would regularly Scottish Mountain Drawings: Volume Three: go back to Bob’s house, where his wife would often have a hotpot ready. AW was The Western Highlands to him and there is very fond of this arrangement, reckoning that she The full account of Bob Walker’s a passing mention of him in Hunter Davies’ cooked the best hotpot in Westmorland. Robert friendship with AW is one of 120 stories Wainwright – The Biography. Walker, who was aged about eight when AW first that comprise Encounters with Wainwright. Copies can be obtained via the Whilst gathering material for Encounters with visited their house, remembers AW being very friendly, often chatting to him about school. Society’s website or by simply sending Wainwright, I made contact with a Robert Walker, a cheque with your name and address who told me that his father, Bob Walker, and AW The Walker family often went to the north-west of to David Johnson, at 18 Pease Way, were good friends. He said that they often went Scotland. Bob extolled the virtues of the Scottish Histon, Cambridge, CB24 9YZ. on holiday together and AW was a frequent visitor highlands to AW and the two of them had a week’s Any enquiries can be directed by to his home in Kendal. I met Robert and heard an holiday there in 1960 or 1961 – their first of three email to [email protected]. entertaining and enlightening account of the two holidays together in Scotland. They went out each uk or by phone at 07881 894519. men which included new information on how day by car, Bob photographing birds (another passion All sale proceeds after costs of sometimes AW conducted research for the of his) and AW usually sketching. Bob’s photograph of postage are being donated to Animal Pictorial Guides in remoter areas in the west of AW (taken around 1962) is particularly interesting and Rescue Cumbria. AW with Bob Walker, at the Lake District. unusual as it shows a relaxed AW in his mid-fifties.

12 13 Editor’s note: the following article has been written for the Life of a Mountain: Blencathra Exhibition, being held book as ‘an aloof but benevolent giant’, hillsides, the clearing of swamps and cultivation at Keswick Museum (see page 5). It is included in a leaflet provided by the Society for visitors to the exhibition. Wainwright tells how the alternative name, of land for pasture, the advent of mining, the Saddleback, gained ascendancy following its construction of a railway and, a century later, its popularity in Victorian times. He was clearly removal and the building of the A66. ‘All these opposed to this trend: ‘Let us hope that one changes Blencathra has witnessed with a superior Wainwright on Blencathra day soon, we shall see only the name Blencathra nonchalance. Things men do don’t last. Blencathra on the maps … Blencathra is a beautiful and is permanent, for ever.’ – simply the best? inspiring name. Suburban householders all over the country have named their homes Blencathra. As he did in The , Wainwright Nobody ever called his house Saddleback … went on in the 1991 publication to describe the Whilst being reluctant to say what the Blencathra has become a firm favourite among various physical features of the mountain, the ‘best’ fells were, in ‘Some Personal Notes in the increasing army of fellwalkers and welcomes subsidiary fells and gills on its southern aspect, conclusion’ in the last of his Pictorial Guides, all who address him by his rightful name.’ the northern and eastern aspects, the saddle, Wainwright gave his opinion of ‘the finest Sharp Edge (‘for the fellwalker it is supreme’), half-dozen’ fells (the criteria being that they The adulation continued: ‘Blencathra is a grand Scales Tarn, the nearby River Glenderamackin, ‘must have the attributes of mountains, i.e. mountain standing aloof, independent, masculine, and the summit. Concerning the height, a commanding appearance, a good owing allegiance to no other, aware of its strategic northern aspect, Wainwright wrote: ‘Blencathra view, steepness and ruggedness)’. importance as the cornerstone of Lakeland in the is a Jekyll and Hyde mountain. Hyde is the savage north-east, a sentinel charged with the duty of southern front, a threatening monster difficult to watching all who travel on the popular approach placate and not inviting human companionship, from Penrith.’ Wainwright then paints a picture of a fearsome and repelling object without Sharp Edge, Blencathra ( the mountain as an eternal being, looking down compassion for intruders. In complete contrast, Lakeland Mountain Drawings, Vol. 1, No. 60) © The Wainwright Estate on many changes – men constructing a stone Jekyll is the northern slope, of placid and urbane circle two miles away and worshipping there, the appearance, bland and expressionless, a friendly erection of stone huts and walls on nearby place but lacking in interest and excitement.’ than for any of the 213 other fells covered in the Pictorial Guides. Every aspect of the mountain is recorded in detail, including twelve routes of ascent.

One classic route is via Sharp Edge, described as follows: ‘Sharp Edge … the highlight of this walk … is a rising crest of naked rock, of sensational and spectacular appearance, a breaking wave The Eastern Blencathra from ( carved in stone. The sight of it at close quarters © The Wainwright Estate Fells, Clough Head 7) is sufficient to make a beholder about to tackle it forget all other worries, even a raging Among these six fells was Blencathra, which he toothache. The crest itself is sharp enough for described in A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells, shaving (the former name was Razor Edge) The Northern Fells as ‘… one of the grandest objects and can be transversed only à cheval at some in Lakeland. And one of the best known.’ risk of damage to tender parts … There is one He went on to write there that ‘This is a awkward place, calling for a shuffle off a sloping mountain that compels attention … To artists and slab on a knife-edge: countless posteriors have photographers it is an obvious subject for their craft; imparted a high polish to this spot.’ to sightseers passing along the road … between Keswick and Penrith, its influence is magnetic; to the Wainwright also wrote extensively about dalesfolk it is the eternal background to their lives, Blencathra in Wainwright’s Favourite Lakeland there at birth, there at death. But most of all it is a Mountains, published by Michael Joseph in 1991, mountaineer’s mountain.’ shortly after Wainwright’s death. His opening words are: ‘Blencathra is a proud name for a That Blencathra was special to Wainwright is proud mountain and it is terrible to think that, apparent not just from what he wrote about it, but some years ago, it seemed in danger of losing by the volume of words he penned. Thirty-six pages the lovely name that had been given to it by Blencathra, from Guardhouse (Lakeland Mountain Drawings, Vol. 2, No. 154) © The Wainwright Estate are devoted to it in The Northern Fells, far more the early settlers.’ Describing Blencathra in that

14 15

In describing the walk up the northern slope, he welcome my weekly visits. We forged a bond of wrote: ‘But the route is vindicated when the last friendship that has remained strong ever since.’ A New Record? few steps to the summit ridge suddenly, and with startling effect, bring into sight a breathtaking In Fellwalking with Wainwright (published by prospect of distant fells crowding around Michael Joseph in 1984), Wainwright elaborated It was summer of 1955: Malc and I were services meant it was hard enough to see our Borrowdale and : it is a vista of pure on this meticulous field-work: ‘I climbed all the seven and eight respectively. The peak was respective families, let alone slope off to the fells! loveliness that comes as a blinding revelation after five ridges and struggled up before scree-filled , via Mill Gill and Stickle One of us was preoccupied with the City (it was the watercourses that so deeply divide them. the tedious observance of underfoot greenery Tarn. The entry in Book Three records: month of the Big Bang), the other with helping run I became familiar with every detail of the during the past hour. This is a wonderful moment, ‘With Mum, Dad & Malc – in wellies!’ the Second City’s education service. The weather topography, scrambling over ground where a fellwalking highlight.’ Of the summit, Wainwright What, all of us? Or just Malc? No idea: lost was rough that month and the far eastern fells still surely no man had trod before, and was wrote that it was marked by ‘An untidy pile of in the mists of time. That’s what comes of relatively unfrequented. But for once we struck lucky completely fascinated by its many ramifications. stones … surrounded by a greensward that not writing up your Wainwrights straight and, having parked at Haweswater head, sauntered … This was a no-man’s-land in very truth, a invites rest and a contemplation of the magnificent away – although to be fair, that would’ve back to Swindale in patchy sunshine. The old corpse steep and inhospitable wilderness. I developed panorama revealed on all sides.’ been tricky with The Central Fells as yet road to Mardale led via the north-east ridge to a great liking for Blencathra. Familiarity did not unpublished! Selside Pike; AW’s reassurance that the easy walk to Wainwright concluded his chapter on Blencathra in bring contempt, only admiration and affection.’ was safe in mist proved superfluous. The July 1965 and, as the Beatles and the Stones vied grassy two-mile stretch to was a stroll, style, and removing any (unlikely) doubt about his Wainwright stopped short of singling out for supremacy, several under-age pints in various until we encountered another party on Gatesgarth affection for the mountain, as follows: ‘I climbed Blencathra as the ‘best’ mountain of the 214, but Keswick hostelries inspired the suggestion of a night Pass. In our adolescent thirties, company was still an Blencathra every Sunday in the winter of 1960/1 given the time he devoted to exploring it and the and never once saw another human being. I had ascent. Away at closing time, the summit should be unlooked-for challenge to be razzed off! The route affection with which he described its attributes, reached around dawn. There was no moon and the mountain to myself, and discovering its secrets would it be unreasonable to suppose that, for down to that most delightful of passes – Nan Bield with the path not previously known, intermittent and hidden resources, and on the summit was king him, it was ‘simply the best’? – and on past Small Water was an exhilarating romp on his throne. Treated with respect, Blencathra torchlight on pages 11-12 facilitated the before the ‘shades of the prison house’ beckoned was a rough but genial giant who seemed to David Johnson climb. The view would be stunning as the sun rose (Wordsworth’s Ode: Intimations of Immortality). somewhere over the Pennines. Unfortunately, the weather was unkind and our celebration was muted September 1993. Whilst one was relieved at the by steady drizzle. The descent through the still PM’s outmanoeuvring the b……ds, the other murky streets was interrupted by the constabulary, rejoiced in the founding of UKIP. Mountains are far enquiring where we had come from at that time of more rewarding – and less potentially divisive – The Wainwright Society Calendar the morning; the response of ‘the top of Skiddaw’ than politics, however, and the Good Companion was received with dismissive incredulity. tent pitched at the foot of Goat’s Water allowed Sales of the 2017 calendar raised £8,428 well underway and us free range of the Coniston Fells. Conditions for our 2016 beneficiary, the Lake District it should be available Queen were the champions in October 1977; were perfect, both for the summits and the rock. Calvert Trust. Total funds raised are going for sale in July, via the whilst, closer to home, careers and fatherhood A clutch of ’s easier routes fell, although towards their project to refurbish the website. For members diminished opportunities but not aspirations. It a lack of gear frequently entailed 120ft run-outs Bowderstone Bothy in Borrowdale (see the not on line, there became a case of agreeing a weekend, months with no protection. Additionally, every peak Spring 2016 issue of Footsteps). will be a flyer in the ahead, and making arrangements accordingly. was trodden during one cloudless day; the only Autumn issue of The weather conditions were irrelevant. High downside – some b…..d (of whichever tendency) The main beneficiary for 2017 is Fix the Fells, Footsteps which may Crag was shrouded in cloud from 1,000 feet and had stolen our milk. Fortunately, our tea-less thirst which undertakes the repair of eroded and be used to order by the gale-force wind, occasionally gusting to Force survived intact, to be slaked by a suitable intake of damaged upland paths in the Lake District. post. Calendars will 10, afforded an exciting climb. AW’s suggestion Jennings’ bitter later. Details of their work and information on a also be on sale at of Sheepbone Rake provided a safe route to the project to repair the path on Long Stile leading Rheged prior to the summit; whilst the mile to High Street was as By 2008, the Society was well versed in fundraising. up to High Street was described in John Memorial Lecture on easily negotiated as his ridge route promised. The Soccer aficionados revelled in the first all-English Bewick’s article in the Spring 2017 issue of 7 October. The price elements never abated; they afforded rather a European Cup Final, hosted by Moscow’s Luzhniki Footsteps. The money raised by the Society for of the calendar has been held to £10 for UK, EU welcome antidote to the quotidian routine of the Stadium, but our challenge that May was to help Fix the Fells will be directed to that project. and US orders. bank and the classroom. fund Cockermouth’s superb mountain rescue team. Precursor to the North-West Challenge The Society’s calendar is the main contributor Enquiries concerning the calendar may be made Whilst the PM opened the M25, October 1986 was a detour to Spout Force where, once again to our fundraising. Photographs for the 2018 to me at [email protected] saw ‘The Selside Snatch’, as I call it. We shouldn’t AW’s directive had been heeded and a picturesque calendar have been selected – a difficult task given even have been there! Converging (hardly!) from path led to a fine viewing platform from which to the number of high-quality images submitted Nick Holmes Birmingham and Exeter was a sufficient challenge. appreciate the force. Alluring, blue-misty sunshine by members. Detailed design of the calendar is Membership No. 1957 Demanding positions in financial and education alleviated the slog from Scawgill Bridge up the side

16 17 A Quiz – The Southern Fells

There is one question or clue for each of the thirty fells in The Southern Fells, so it 14 Which fell is one of the ‘magnificent’ places will become easier as each fell is identified. that keep the ‘fellwalker … in long winter You will need to use AW’s original version exile … restless in his bed’? to find the answers. 15 Which fell is ‘not only good to look at, but Three signed copies of Clive Hutchby’s revision of good to climb’? AW’s fourth Pictorial Guide, kindly provided by the 16 The summit cairn on which fell looks ‘as publishers Frances Lincoln, are offered as prizes for though it has stood there since the beginning correctly identifying the fells in the following questions. of time’? In the likely event of more than three correct set of answers being received, the prizes will go to the first 17 Which fell has a ‘neat peak’? three members whose names are drawn from the 18 On which fell is ‘the highest point … a platform hat. Send your answers, by 15 July, to footsteps@ of naked rock’? wainwright.org.uk or by mail to David Johnson at 18 Pease Way, Histon, Cambridge, CB24 9YZ. 19 Which fell has a summit where ‘All is grass – dry, springy turf that, on a hot day, cries aloud 1 Where is the cairn mentioned in the following: for a siesta’? ‘If there is a strong wind, listen to the music of the stones of this big cairn’? 20 On which fell is there an ascent that ‘may quickly lead to desperate manoeuvres in thick 2 Which fell ‘is not especially remarkable, and is plantations’? best described as a wedge of high ground’? 21 Which fell is ‘so named because of the 3 From the summit of which fell is there ‘A quite Malc and Ossie on extensive zone of heather clothing the unexpected glimpse of ’? northern flanks below the summit’? 4 Which fell is ‘… a in miniature’? 22 There is ‘no room for a cairn’ on the summit of of Darling How Plantation, and Graystone’s grassy you’ve already completed, you know how we felt; 5 Which fell has a ‘splendid strategical position’? which fell? summit was soon underfoot. The ridge route to if you haven’t, savour the prospect of exhilaration, was delightful, as was its continuance satisfaction and a deep sense of gratitude. So that was 6 Where is found ‘the most difficult obstacle met on 23 Which fell is ‘ … well worth climbing from any to Lord’s Seat. The rough ground from there it – seven decades to cover seven guides. any of the regular walker’s paths in Lakeland’? direction’? to may be tricky in mist, but in warm May 7 Of which fell did AW write: ‘it is fitting that it [the 24 The view from the summit of which fell sunshine it was inspiriting. And Barf’s always easier We were too young to enjoy the Britannia’s top] should be sturdy and rugged and strong’? ‘southwards is enough to transfix the visitor’s to descend… hospitality back in the aforesaid ’50s, but we made up for it this time! The Coniston Bluebird 8 Which fell is referred to here: ‘Did it but stand attention for some minutes’? And so to No 214 – just last December. AW and Britannia Gold was tasting better by the glass alone … [it] would rank highly among the 25 Which is ‘a fine mountain of considerable bulk’? wrote: ‘Of the lesser heights of Lakeland, Loughrigg when, magically, on our table opposite the roaring really worth-while mountain climbs’? 26 ‘A feud rages … between cairn-builders and Fell is pre-eminent.’ But that wasn’t why we’d left log-fire, appeared two moonpig.com cards with 9 Which is the fell where there are ‘glorious cairn-destroyers’ on which fell? it until last. This, with intentional circularity, was the Loughrigg trig point pictured on the front and views, that to the north being of unsurpassed where it all started (in 1955) – stopping on the an appropriate message inscribed inside, by our beauty’? 27 Of which fell did AW write: ‘No mountain in then Estate, in . A sole caravan son/godson who’d completed on Haystacks a year Lakeland … can show a grander front’? (Malc’s dad’s) occupied the site by Hobson’s Tarn. previously. Cheers, Chris! 10 Which fell has a ‘Hundred Holes’? Now it’s a tastefully executed multi-million-pound 11 Which fell’s ‘pathless and undulating top is 28 On which fell is there a summit cairn described as complex that can house upwards of 200. And just as a postscript, we’re minded to offer a rarely visited’? ‘one of singular elegance, a graceful ten-foot spire’? challenge. Footsteps has noted many fine records of 12 Where will you find a ‘waterspout gushing 29 Which fell, had it ‘asserted itself a little more and Midday sunshine bathed both the car, strategically ascending the 214 in the shortest possible time; but from the base of the cliff – and nothing better overtopped its satellites by a few hundred feet it parked outside the Britannia, and us as we contoured has anyone else taken sixty years? would rank with the noblest fells in Lakeland’? round Red Bank to reach the Terrace. The direct ever came out of a barrel or a bottle’? route past cairn accessed the summit and Malcolm Pinder – Gloucestershire, Membership No. 91 13 Which fell is the objective of only ‘an odd 30 Which fell is ‘rarely visited – except, of course, a kindly fellow-climber provided the evidence! If Ossie Hopkins – Lancashire, Membership No. 76 guide-book writer or other eccentric’? by the custodian of the infamous rain-gauges’?

18 19 EVENT Wainwright’s Book Dedications REPORT – A. Harry Griffin - Lakeland Writer

Harry Griffin will be known to many Society A fortuitous meeting with George Basterfield gave Society Walk: Reston Scar members as the author of numerous him the start he needed. Basterfield, who was evocative books and newspaper articles Mayor of Barrow and, by a stroke of amazingly good – Saturday 25 March 2017 devoted to the celebration of the Lakeland fortune, then President of the Fell and Rock Climbing fells. He claimed, probably accurately, Club, invited Harry on a climb. So, aged eighteen, that during his lengthy career as a writer he began his life-long involvement with rock In The Outlying Fells of Lakeland, AW wrote: and journalist he had written more about climbing, mountaineering and outdoor adventure. ‘There must be many readers who, like the the Lake District than even his friend, Alf author, have been passing Reston Scar en Wainwright, whom he knew for forty-five He began his career in journalism as a cub reporter route for the Lakes with no more than a years. Awarded the MBE in recognition of his on the local paper in Barrow and progressed from glance up at it ... This is a fine place for a literary achievements, he was one of the few there to the Lancashire Evening Post in Preston and siesta on a sunny day (with a tarn to paddle people who both walked with AW and also then the Daily Mail in Manchester. While working in).’ published their impressions of seeing him in for the Mail, he became its Northern Music Critic: he had learned to play the piano as a boy. With Eighteen members and four dogs set off in gloriously action (see Encounters with Wainwright). characteristic chutzpah, he once wrote a critical warm sunshine from outside Staveley village hall, In 1978, when AW produced Volume Five of his review of a performance in which the composer, heading up School Lane and a public footpath aptly Photograph by Caroline Nichol Scottish Mountain Drawings, he dedicated it to Rachmaninov, had played his own compositions. signed ‘Sunny Bank’. The ascent from here to the Harry in recognition, no doubt, of their friendship summit of Reston Scar is quite steep, but this is At the outbreak of war, Harry volunteered for the and of Harry’s love of Scotland compensated by excellent views north-eastwards for our walk following recent prolonged heavy army and served in intelligence in India and Burma. rain. We took care negotiating this section and over to Brunt Knott and . We took our The son of a house painter, Arthur Harry Griffin was Returning to in 1946 with the rank of before long we reached grassy open country, time as we zigzagged up the fellside, accompanied born in Liverpool in 1911 but the family moved to lieutenant-colonel, he decided to settle in Kendal and over which we followed a track, still rather wet, by the bleating of lambs in the fields below – a sure Barrow-in- when he was still a child. While rejoined the Lancashire Evening Post, later becoming leading to the 834ft summit of Reston Scar. sign that spring had arrived. a pupil at the local grammar school, he was taken its Northern Editor. He also began his long-running Country Diary for the Guardian. As a local journalist, Although of modest height, Reston Scar is an on a school trip up nearby and soon On reaching a very tall deer-gate, we paused to he would soon have got to know of AW’s existence, excellent 360-degree viewpoint. We lingered after was given a bicycle which enabled him to admire the view of Staveley nestled in the valley but how they became friends is unclear. Although to enjoy the beautiful sight of the snow-capped explore further afield. In the company of his brother, below and across to Lily Fell, another low top they were neighbours for a few years and not Lakeland fells and to pose for the group Leslie, he soon came to know the fells well. Then, affording excellent views which had been visited dissimilar in age, background and education, their photograph. We had intended to return to during convalescence after a minor accident, Harry on a previous Society walk. Past this gate, the interests and personalities differed significantly, Staveley via Black Crag, just a third of a mile away, suddenly became ‘quite besotted’ with rock-climbing ground is often very boggy and so it was making them somewhat improbable friends. but the terrain was extremely boggy. Instead, and resolved to become a climber. therefore, we retraced our steps from the Griffin saw himself as a ‘cragsman’. He relished summit towards Sunny Bank and took a narrow climbing in challenging conditions and made many enclosed lane to reach the Road. difficult ascents with several well-known names in British rock climbing. He was also an accomplished We crossed the River Kent over Barley Bridge mountaineer, who climbed in Scotland, the Alps, and enjoyed a leisurely ten-minute riverside North America and the Himalayas (where, in a stroll to Millennium Bridge and the end of our hair-raising incident, he nearly lost his life) as well walk at Mill Yard in the heart of Staveley. as a proficient skier, skater, and occasional potholer. He enjoyed running on the fells, swimming It had been a beautiful walk, in unseasonal naked in the mountain tarns, and being out in the ‘T-shirt’ weather and with fantastic views air stripped to the waist, activities which would – a great start to the 2017 Society walks doubtless have been anathema to AW. He also programme. liked male company, a few pints at the end of a day Caroline Nichol on the rock, and a good argument. In 1931, with P h o t o g r a p h b y D a v di J o h n s o n Walks Organiser half a dozen friends, he had founded a climbing

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group, the Coniston Tigers, and maintained contact Harry and AW were clearly never going to Harry Griffin gave up climbing aged seventy-eight with its members throughout his life. In his last spend much time together on the fells, but what and skiing at eighty, but continued writing and book, he fondly recalled the many companions he they did share was a deep love for them and driving his car. At the time of his death, in 2004 had known during his long climbing career. knowledge of them and the ability to translate aged ninety-three, he had begun to grapple with this love into the written word. In that sense, the mysteries of laptop computers and word- AW was not a cragsman but a ‘fellwanderer’. By they were worshippers at the same shrine, processing. His obituary in The Guardian was choice a rather solitary figure, his mind was ‘full lovers of the same goddess, exponents of published alongside his final column. of dreams and imaginings and romance’. The fells the same art. It was this, their mutual love of were to be traversed at a leisurely pace rather the hills and respect for each other’s work as Alan Thomas − Warrington than at speed, ideally when alone and certainly authors rather than any joint expeditions in the Membership No. 2518 while fully clothed. His preferred ending to a day’s mountains, that formed the bedrock for their exploration was a fish supper in a favourite café continuing relationship. MAIN SOURCES rather than carousing in a pub. As for the crags, he liked looking at them, photographing them and When Volume One of the Pictorial Guides • Davies, Hunter. (1995) Wainwright: the drawing them, but the thought of climbing them, appeared in 1955, Harry reviewed it for the Biography (Michael Joseph). he said, turned his legs to jelly. Lancashire Evening Post as he did for each of the subsequent volumes. He was deeply impressed by • Griffin, A. H. (1999) The Coniston Tigers it, calling it ‘the most remarkable book of its kind (Sigma Leisure). about the Lake District ever printed’. However, he added that AW’s work was so comprehensive • Hardy, P. (2008) Introduction to A. H. Griffin, and detailed that it might rob the mountains of The High Places, London: Frances Lincoln. their aura of adventure and discovery. Later, • Hodgkinson, J. (2004) A. Harry Griffin: he came to blame AW for opening up the fells, A Lifetime of Mountains - a Eulogy. http:// thereby hastening the erosion of the paths and footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/a-harry- the despoilment of the district, although his own griffin-lifetime-of-mountainsa.html publications could not be entirely exempted from the same charge. Their friendship persisted • Wells, C. (2004) ‘Harry Griffin: Evocative nonetheless. Lakeland writer and pioneering climber’.

As Harry came to prepare his first book Supported by his third wife, Josie, he kept working • http://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/ for publication, AW offered to finance it. despite these heavy blows. His last book, The harry-griffin-39039.html Acknowledging his generosity, Harry refused, Coniston Tigers, appeared when he was eighty-eight feeling that he would rather wait for a publisher years old. Once again it contained the same map • The photographs are reproduced by kind than accept ‘charity’. Even so, when Inside the and illustrations provided by AW years before. permission of Harry Griffin’s daughter, Sandra Real Lakeland eventually appeared, it included a Although it gave few details of his journalistic career, Griffin Parr map of the district drawn especially by AW and it was virtually an autobiography and won the For a few years Griffin and AW were near a number of his line drawings. Harry’s second Lakeland Book of the Year award. neighbours in Kendal. Harry would often see AW book, In Mountain Lakeland, also illustrated by waiting for the bus but, despite repeated offers of AW, included a section on Wainwright. Dubbing In this book, Griffin summed up his thoughts about a lift in his car, AW would never accept; I imagine him ‘The Lone Walker’, he profiled the man and AW, writing that he was courageous, friendly, he hated the thought of having to talk. Somehow his Pictorial Guides project which, at that time, generous, a gifted cartographer and artist, a they did manage to share two or three walks was still in progress. sensitive and witty writer, exceptionally single- together although these outings do not seem to minded and industrious, and ‘a sound mountain have been particularly successful. Griffin, despite In the last years of his life, Harry endured a series man with a splendid sense of direction and a real all his sociability, had a short fuse, and found AW’s of personal losses. Three years after the death love of the hills’. ‘I’m very honoured to have refusal to climb walls and unwillingness to rope of his first wife, Mollie, whom he had married in known him fairly well,’ he wrote. ‘Perhaps he For all the latest Society up for some scrambling rather frustrating. He also 1937 and who had borne him a son and daughter, was some sort of genius. Who knows?’ If this final news, please visit us online at reported that AW was lacking in agility, had large he remarried. But within five months, his second judgement was tentative, it may be because he www.wainwright.org.uk wife, Violet, also died. Perhaps most devastating of found, as others have, that he could never get the feet, walked clumsily, and had no idea how to use a or follow us on Facebook compass. AW in turn complained that Griffin ‘talked all was the sudden death at the age of fifty-eight of full measure of the man; AW remained somehow too much’. Needless to say, he never joined Harry his son, Robin, with whom he had shared many elusive – familiar and close-by, yet always just out or Twitter on any of his climbs. of his mountain adventures. of reach.

22 23 Well done and thank you, from Alan and me, to Peanuts and Pennies – Part 2 those who took part. The challenge is now closed, but the trove is still there and, if and when I’m next that way, I’ll add copies of these Footsteps articles. The Winter 2016/17 issue of Footsteps winds coming down the valley. A friend Lisa with I promised a small prize to one of the participants included an article sub-titled ‘How to find 2s dog Jasper helped search. We could not see – the name taken from the hat was Val Wilkinson, 4d on Catbells’. This recounted a challenge Newlands Church or Low High Snab in the gloom, who has received a copy of Scratch & Co. set fifty years ago by AW to his friend, Molly so we looked near every gap in the wall until we Lefebure, to find a hidden treasure in a found it. A mouse had nibbled the plastic to get cavity in a wall near a path below Catbells, at the nuts, so they had gone; the pennies and a Charlotte Mathieson not far from her house, Low High Snab. pound coin were there with the password ‘Scratch & Co’. Fortunately, I had another plastic bag with The article included a note written by AW and me and, with a badge added, put it back – possibly discovered by Alan Thomas while researching for a bit further in as the wind had almost taken it right his article on Molly, also included in that issue. The out of the wall when we first saw it. We then had Stephen Ellaby note gave information on how to find a florin, four a walk up the other way to Castlenook mines. pennies and some peanuts that AW had secreted Thanks for the fun.’ and included photographs to provide further help.

Alan and I, appreciating AW’s sense of humour in The next to contact me was Stephen Ellaby, the note, thought it would be a great fun to find who found the hiding place on Friday 6 January. the site and deposit a treasure of our own there for Later that month, Chris Mathieson emailed: ‘Last Footsteps readers to find. So, last October, armed Saturday, my wife Laura and I, and little Charlotte, Janet Johnson with map, binoculars and a copy of AW’s note, we set out on our adventure to find the spot where set off from Little Town. Using the information in peanuts and pennies where hidden. We were AW’s note, we found the cavity in the wall, which pleased to find your bag … Unfortunately, the was in a remote place well off the path. weather had got to your note quite badly and AW’s photograph in his note I suspect it won’t be long before it becomes Christine Hurford with Jasper Our fantasy had been that Molly had never been unreadable. It needs a little TLC, I’m afraid. We to find the treasure and that it would still be there. regularly have ventures like this out on the fells Whether or not she did go there, the fact is that the as we are big fans of geocaching, which is very hole was empty. We left some nuts, pennies and a similar to this treasure hunt. You could argue that note with a password which was ‘Scratch & Co.’ – a Wainwright was a very early geocacher.’ book written by Molly and illustrated by AW. On the morning of 26 January, I accompanied The subsequent article that appeared in the Winter my wife Janet as she took on the challenge. As Peter Jenner issue of Footsteps challenged readers to find this the photograph indicates, it was a sunny but cold location by following AW’s instructions and, if day. In view of the report of damage to my note, succeeding, to contact me with the password as I took the opportunity to replace it and substitute evidence that the cache had been found. On offer John Holloway and Val Wilkinson the plastic bag with a sealable box, which I hoped was the ‘chance of a (small) prize, the certainty would keep the elements and any passing mouse of much glory in the form of being mentioned in or squirrel at bay. the Summer issue of Footsteps’ and the prospect of enjoying a most beautiful low-level walk with Further reports of successful missions were magnificent views of the . Alan Thomas at the scene in October 2016 received from Mike Barrett, Val Wilkinson and – photograph by David Johnson Several members took on the challenge: John Holloway, Penny and Anthony Woodyer (‘We’ve just returned from a delightful walk from Penny Woodyer Much has changed in the Lake District over the Christine Hurford was the first to respond, having searching for your plastic bag. Thank past fifty years but, as the photographs above show undertaken the search only a day or so after you for giving the idea of walking along this lovely (AW’s in his note and mine taken last October), receiving her copy of Footsteps. She emailed: ‘I path on a fabulous day whilst the whole world some things are timeless. could not resist the challenge! … Yesterday, 7 was trekking over Catbells!’), and from Peter and December, was misty with a drizzle and strong Vicki Jenner. David Johnson Mike Barrett

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My Introduction to the Lake District What a difference the weather makes!

It was 1955, and a trio of friends at Kirkham Once there, the next stage was by Ribble bus to Grammar School suggested I should go with . I remember being surprised by the them during the summer holiday on a trip views of a big stretch of water which I was told organised by one of the masters, Mr Lee. I was called Lake and was ten miles was a rather shy unadventurous type, and long! Just round the corner from the bus station a trip away from home to a place I didn’t in Ambleside was the Youth Hostel, looking like know seemed somewhat daunting. But Eric, a small hotel. I don’t remember much about the who’d been the previous year, said it would inside except that we slept on bunk beds and there be really great. was a race to get the top level.

I can’t recall how much it cost my parents, who In the afternoon, Eric, John and George (‘Bulldog’) couldn’t manage much in the way of extras on top and I went down to the lake. It cost half a crown of the school uniform, but I was allowed to go. And to hire a rowing boat for an hour and we got one so, one Monday morning, I and my three friends, with four oars. The sun was either in our eyes with others making up about a dozen, boarded the or on our back, according to when we changed Jack, John and Bulldog train in Preston, to steam off to Windermere. position to take turns rowing. We made it across to the opposite shore, steering the prow of our boat the sun. Looking back at the photos we have of this On our last day, we walked to the ferry at Sawrey into the small rocky inlets and jumping out onto time, we didn’t have any special outdoor clothes; and, once across the lake, we all met together with the sun-dappled bank under the trees to explore. we wore our school trousers and white shirts. We Sir and his wife and son at the station in Windermere. It was magic! Time seemed to be suspended; we had no boots, just shoes, and ‘pumps’ for inside the The trip had been wonderful, and every day of it weren’t aware of it at all. Although we returned hostels. Good job it didn’t rain! had been under a bright sun in a blue sky, warm and the boat in time, we had had no sense of hurry. colourful. I have often thought since, what would have Nowadays, an hour just rushes by! In Grasmere village we sat licking ice-creams in a happened if those days with Eric, John, Bulldog, and café by a river where we watched trout in the crystal Mr Lee, had been under glowering skies in the rain. In the beautiful calm evening we went down to the clear water. Most youth hostels in the area were far Would I have been put off for ever? park near the river to smoke our illicit cigarettes. from a bus route and we had no school minibus. It I had a packet of twenty Players Weights. The was a long pull up the road to High Close. It isn’t surprising that, only a year later, I visited the following day we all took the bus to Keswick, and Lakes with other friends, to recapture that magic, had a round trip on Derwentwater in a motor The next day, Sir gave us a new itinerary and, again the influence of natural objects that Wordsworth boat. It was while leaning over the side to trail in glorious sunshine, our little group set off down to wrote about. It was that initial visit of just five my hand in the water racing by that I saw my Langdale and beyond until we reached Tarn Hows. glorious days that gave me the yearning to go again expensive fags drop from my shirt pocket, to be What a beautiful place! It was quite a shock to and again, later with the amazing guide books by a whisked away in the wash! learn years later that it had been man-made. One man called A. Wainwright. of us still had some cigarettes, and we lit up while The next day, Mr Lee gave us a postcard with sitting on the bank. I have a grainy old photograph I wish I could thank Eric for that week but he is no instructions on how to reach our next hostel, High of us there, my hand behind my back to hide the longer with us. And maybe I would never have seen Close. My friends all knew the way: over Rydal obnoxious weed. the Lake District at all if Mr C. K. Lee had not had the footbridge, past a small lake and up to a path from kindness to arrange a holiday for us. So it’s him that I where high rugged mountains could be seen across We were only fifteen, unused to contemplating thank most of all, and I wish I had done so personally yet another lake, Grasmere. The weather was hot, rural beauty, but it was difficult to drag ourselves much earlier, but I haven’t been able to trace him, and we were soon sweating. As we sat eating our away from the idyllic scene. It was quite a long and don’t even know if he is still alive. Maybe he, or sandwiches, I gazed at the scenery. What a place! way down to , so when we arrived his son, or other old boys know and, if they read this Looking back today, I find it strange that I didn’t have we stopped to rest and talk to some girl guides story, can help me at last to pay my debt of gratitude. any desire to climb the mountains. It was so fantastic on the swings. Later, tired and hungry, our shirts just to be among them, to see the blue of the sky damp with sweat, it was great to reach the hostel Jack Woods – Preston Jack in August 2016 reflected in the water, and to feel the warmth of overlooking . Membership No. 736

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• Catching four separate buses to reach Langdale, Seatoller (three bus journeys from home), I Walking the 214 – by bus pass pitching my tent and setting off early the was blessed with driving rain. I walked over Sty following morning, walking via Blea Tarn and Head, dropping into and detouring for over and to the top of Hard a scramble up Yewbarrow before continuing I started my first round of the 214 Knott Pass, then completing , Harter down the valley to the hostel. The following Wainwrights in 2007, finishing it in 2009 Fell and . During the walk I met morning, it was back along the valley and onto and going on to complete my fifth in 2016. two ladies and, having said I was a member of and, after checking map and compass In true Wainwright style, I travelled by bus the Society, one of them asked: ‘Do you know (reassuring in the misty conditions), it was as much as possible to access the fells and my husband, Eric Robson?’ It was a very hot down to . I then made my way down completed one of these rounds using no day and, as I headed back to Langdale, I recall across the fellside and ended the day’s walk other form of transport. Cockley Beck’s water tasting superb. by completing and from For the other four rounds, I used my bus pass for where I dropped down to Woodhow, just a every walk, although for twenty or so of these I • Undertaking my longest walk, from Cleator short walk from the hostel. I completed my last also used my car where the fells are not readily Moor in the west of Cumbria to Keswick (thirty three, , and on served by bus (places like Wasdale, Eskdale, miles). My route took me through a very wet and windy day. After a night’s rest, Ennerdale and Swindale). Achieving these less Moss and up to Fell, , , I walked back out over in yet more accessible fell walks on my bus-only round required , , across Wind Gap to Pillar rain, but I didn’t mind – I had achieved what I more detailed planning, overnight stops in a tent or and down to Black Pass. I then walked had set out to do. hostel, and walking faster or further. around the flanks of to Beck Head and down Aaron Slack headed to Styhead Tarn, It helped, of course, that I live near the fells, but the from where it was all downhill to Seatoller via bus-only round still took me four years to complete Stockley Bridge and then on to Rosthwaite, and countless bus journeys. At this point, I would where I enjoyed refreshments before wild- like to thank all the bus drivers for transporting me camping to rest for a few hours at the end of safely. As you can imagine, things did not always what had been a long day. At first light, I walked go to plan, as indicated in some of the following into Keswick, pausing for a bite to eat on the recollections of events during my travels. bench at Calf Close Bay on the shores of Derwent Water. The early morning views were • Getting off the bus at Mungrisdale road end truly wonderful. on the A66, walking to via Carrock Barry and Sue on Troutbeck Tongue, September 2016 Fell, before retracing my steps for the bus back • Doing two long walks over consecutive to Keswick – a walk of some sixteen miles in • Arriving at after a day’s walking, having Saturdays to complete the fells in AW’s Far total. I then discovered that there’s a bus on a forgotten that it was a bank holiday and finding Eastern guide. Three buses were needed to Saturday morning that will drop you off at the that the last bus to Windermere was long get to Hartsop, from where I set off for Harter path and pick you up in the late gone. There was nothing for it but to walk up Fell via Hayes Water, , High Street, afternoon at Hesket Newmarket, requiring a and, in order to catch the last bus Mardale and Nan Bield Pass. On the linear walk of only six miles and giving ample back to Keswick, jog (gently) down The Struggle first Saturday, I went down to Gatescarth Pass time for refreshment in the local pub before to Ambleside – I made it just in time. and completed Branstree and Selside Pike. A enjoying the scenic route back to Keswick via week later, I followed the same route as far as the Back of Skiddaw and Bassenthwaite. • Undertaking a very long day, including seven Gatescarth Pass, but this time I dropped down By the time you receive this issue of Footsteps I will hours on buses, walking the Conistons. I to Brownhowe Bottom and completed Tarn have turned seventy. I have now begun walking decided after completing Coniston Old Man, Crag and . On both occasions, I the fells described by AW in The Outlying Fells of Dow Crag, , , returned by the same route as far as The Knott, Lakeland, written with old-timers in mind. Can they and , that I had enough time from where I headed towards Angle Tarn and be done by bus pass only? Watch this space! to drop down Prison Band and go on to Boredale Hause, then down to to . Once again, this resulted in the catch my buses home. Mike Birney – Salterbeck, Workington need for a jog to catch the last bus. I recall the Membership No.1435 smiles of sympathy for the obviously exhausted • Tackling the last eight fells, which were all in little old man scrambling onto the bus as it was Wasdale where I had booked into the youth about to depart. The ‘just got time for one hostel for three nights, having waited for a more fell’ syndrome is something many of us forecast of favourable weather. But you’ve

Cartoon by Roderick Hamm walkers suffer from. guessed it, as I set off from my starting point,

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Society News

2017 MEMORIAL LECTURE. Clive FIND YOUR MOUNTAIN Hutchby will be our speaker for the lecture at Rheged, to be held on Saturday October 7 at 6pm. Clive is undertaking Clive Hutchby on Catstycam the mammoth task of revising AW’s © Clive Hutchby Pictorial Guides and has, so far, completed Books 1, 2, 3 and 4. He is currently researching The Northern Fells. Tickets are available from Rheged PRESENTATION TO FIX THE FELLS. A at £8.00 each for members (£12 non-members). cheque for £1,500, representing donations from The restaurant will be open before and after members as part of the 2017 Challenge, was made the lecture (but meals afterwards must be to Fix the Fells during our Challenge Walk on pre-booked). on Saturday 27 May. Details of this walk will be reported in the Autumn issue of Footsteps. LIFE OF A MOUNTAIN: BLENCATHRA is ENCOUNTERS WITH WAINWRIGHT. the main 2017 exhibition at Keswick Museum. We are delighted to report that profit so far In addition to the leaflet on Blencathra see( page from sales of our book has reached £5,000. 14) produced by the Society for visitors to the David Johnson, the book’s Editor, presented exhibition to take away, three postcards with a cheque to Amanda Nicholson, Manager of cartoons by Society member Roderick Hamm Kapellan, the Animal Rescue Cumbria’s shelter will be on sale. Proceeds will be shared between at Grayrigg, Cumbria. The widely-acclaimed the Museum and the Society (our share will be Whatever book, a must-read for all Wainwright devotees, donated to Fix the Fells). personal is available from the Society’s website and at various outlets. Any queries can be directed to mountain [email protected] CHANGE OF WEBSITE PASSWORD INSERT. This issue of Footsteps includes an you’re facing, insert which shows the new username and hurl yourself password you will need to access the Members’ Area of our website. Please keep this for future at it in true reference – this will help to reduce the number Wainwright of queries we receive throughout the year. style BINDER FOR FOOTSTEPS. We have just received our third batch of specially-made binders which will help to keep your Footsteps SEARCH ‘WAINWRIGHTGOLDENBEER’ copies in pristine condition. Each binder will www.wainwrightgoldenBEER.co.uk take thirteen issues. Priced at £7.50, including postage and packing, these can be ordered from our website in the Merchandise section.

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Dates for your Diary

WAINWRIGHT SOCIETY WALKS 2017 Members are invited to join the following • Saturday 7 October – ANGLETARN walks, which will be led by Caroline Nichol. PIKES, from Patterdale Packed lunches should be taken. (prior to the Memorial Lecture – see below) • Saturday 29 July – , 5 miles, 1,500ft of ascent. Time: 3½–4½ from Kents Bank hours. Difficulty: moderate. 4 miles, 200ft of ascent. Time: 3 hours. In The Far Eastern Fells, Wainwright wrote: Difficulty: easy/moderate. ‘The distinctive double summit of Angletarn Pikes is a familiar feature high above the In The Outlying Fells of Lakeland, Wainwright Patterdale valley: the two sharp peaks wrote: ‘Not by any exercise of the arrest attention from a distance and are no imagination can Humphrey Head be classed less imposing on close acquaintance, being as an outlying fell of Lakeland. Outlying it attainable only by rock-scrambling, easy or certainly is: a limestone promontory thrusting difficult according to choice of route. … from the Kent Estuary coast and almost The crowning glory of the Pikes, however, surrounded by mudflats at low tide but is the tarn from which they are named, awash at high … Yet its isolation, far-ranging cradled in a hollow just below the summit. views and seascapes, bird life … rocky reefs Its indented shore and islets are features and interesting approach combine to make unusual in mountain tarns, and it has for long, the place unique in the district, giving better and deservedly, been a special attraction for reason for its inclusion in this book than its visitors to Patterdale. The charms of Angle omission. Fellwalkers need an occasional Tarn, at all seasons of the year, are manifold: change of scene. Here is one, on Humphrey in scenic values it ranks amongst the best Head.’ of Lakeland tarns.’ Meet at the car park in The walk will start from Kents Bank railway Patterdale at 10am. After the walk, there station, at 10am. will be plenty of time to enjoy refreshments in Patterdale before the Memorial Lecture • Saturday 23 September – FLINTER GILL at Rheged. ALONG THE DALES WAY, from 6 miles, 920ft of ascent. Time: 4–4½ hours. 2017 MEMORIAL LECTURE – Difficulty: moderate. Rheged, Saturday 7 October Dentdale is sometimes called ‘the hidden valley’. Unlike most of the Yorkshire Dales, Our speaker will be Clive Hutchby. Tickets it looks westwards towards the Lake are available from the Rheged Centre (Tel: District and at its western end the limestone 01768 868000). Price: £8 for members landscape gives way suddenly to the rounded (non-members £12). Howgill Fells. Meet at the car park in Dent at 10am. This circular walk, with its wealth of interest and delights, returns along a section of the Dales Way. There will be an opportunity at the end of the walk to have refreshments in one of the village’s pubs or tea rooms.

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