SAFER Presentation based on training given by Chip Osborne of Osborne Organics

Differences between conventional and organic approach to care:

Conventional lawn care:

● Conventional approach just treats symptoms

● Conventional approach focuses on products. Which product do I use for _____?

● The conventional approach focuses on the above ground parts of plant and makes judgements based on that. EARLY DAYS OF ORGANIC LAWN MANAGEMENT used a similar approach. It attempted product for product replacement. It was not too successful.

Organic lawn care:

Takes a systems approach to lawn care. It considers the grass to be part of a living system that includes underground parts (roots) as well as the air and the with all of its inorganic and living components. (This includes soil organisms such as earthworms, bacteria, fungi, nematodes, and protozoa.) All are important in the nutrient cycling that characterizes the systems approach. Bacteria in soil can take nitrogen from air and make it available to plants. Soil organisms break down organic material in the soil, slowly releasing nutrients and making it available to the plants.

Systems approach requires

1. Basic understanding of soil biology 2. Exclusive use of natural organic products that provide sustained/long-term benefit 3. Revised cultural practices

Instead of fast acting water soluble , the systems approach utilizes soil inputs (like ) that break down over time and have a sustained beneficial effect. Ultimately, you need fewer inputs (out of a bag) because the organisms in your living soil are providing much of what the plants need.

Transition out of conventional, chemical based lawn care over 3 years: Year 1: DO NOT FOCUS ON GETTING RID OF WEEDS! Instead, you should:

“Change soil to get grass to grow” ​ “Feed soil, not plants” “Focus on soil system and nutrient cycling” “Improve soil chemistry & build biological life” (All quotes from Chip Osborne)

Sustainability occurs between years 2 and 3 when inputs can be reduced because the soil is now living and healthy and creating many of its own nutrients.

May need (products containing >2.5% nitrogen) at first. Otherwise, emphasis on ‘soil amendments’ to feed soil

Major Inputs (Soil Amendments) used in an organic care program:

1.Molasses ( feeds bacteria) 2.Humic acid (feeds fungi) 3.Compost/ Compost Tea* “Fundamental to the organic approach”* ​ 4.Kelp 5.Fish hydrolysate

Fertilizers: Look for compost or organic slow release fertilizers at your local nursery or order online. A ​ ​ few fertilizers, such as Ringer® Lawn Restore®, are certified by the Organic Materials Review Institute, www.saferbrand.com.

Other sources: North Country Organics - www.norganics.com.

Others choices include Peaceful Valley Farm Supply www.groworganic.com, Down To Earth’s Bio Turf - www.downtoearthdistributors.com, and Harmony Farm www.harmonyfarm.com

Soil Testing

In order to find out what your soil and your system needs, Chip recommends starting with a basic soil test.

This give you your pH and soil texture:

●6.5-7.0 is ideal pH for turfgrass

●Ability of plant to take up nutrients depends on pH pH lower than 6 results in decreased phosphorus uptake.

●The relative percentages of sand, silt, and clay (mineral portion of soil) are what give soil its texture. Different soil textures have different properties (drainage, water holding ability)

●A loamy texture soil has nearly equal parts of sand, silt, and clay.

●Different size particles result in different sized soil pores (spaces between soil particles).

●Pores allow for water and air movement and are used by soil microorganisms. They improve soil ​ structure to allow oxygen in soil spaces. The grass requires oxygen. Compaction reduces or eliminates ​ the soil spaces and can lead to anaerobic conditions. The lawn can even smell rotten if anaerobic bacteria have set up shop due to lack of oxygen in soil. Not a healthy condition.

Use a screwdriver to see if your soil is compacted. If you can get 4-6” in = good soil, otherwise compacted and needs aeration ​

●6% organic matter desired in soil

CSU offers basic soil tests - $35 http://www.soiltestinglab.colostate.edu/ Soil, Water, and Plant Testing Lab at CSU: 970-491-5061, [email protected] ​

You can pick up tests at local centers: 1. O’Tooles, 1404 Quail St, Lakewood 2. Youngs Market, 9400 W 44th Ave, Wheat Ridge 3. Echter’s, 5150 Garrison St, Arvada 4. Bedrock Landscaping Materials, Denver

Or

Jeffco Cooperative Extension

Elemental sulfur is used to decrease pH Gypsum helps break up clay soil & improves soil structure (without changing pH) Soil test for biological life

Chip also recommends additional soil testing for biological life. This tests for:

Fungi Bacteria Ratio of Fungi to Bacteria Protozoa Nematodes Mycorrhizal Fungi

Cost is in the $125 range, but he claims that the price is coming down…..

He uses this lab:

Soil Foodweb New York http://soilfoodwebnewyork.com 631-750-1553 [email protected]

Importance of soil organisms

●Balanced bacteria/fungi ratios favorable for grass growth ●Where numbers of protozoa decrease, so does nutrient availability ●Protozoa cannot survive in compacted soil ●Nematodes: Most are beneficial and inhibit root feeding (bad) nematodes. Nematocides non-selective ●Earthworms are very good for soil! Nitrogen fixing bacteria increase in surrounding earthworm casts and nitrogen is much more readily available to plants in castings. Herbicide use negatively affects earthworm populations

●Mycorrhizal fungi facilitate nutrient uptake in plants

Results of biological components test help you understand what inputs to use to feed soil organisms and improve nutrient cycling. Follow recommendations from lab to achieve optimal conditions for the desired plant species (grass).

● Prescription given by lab depends on specific conditions of site (which microbes are present/ratios of microbes, etc) ●Compost tea always recommended. Higher rates of application prescribed where nutrient cycling is lower. ●Molasses prescribed where bacterial activity low ●Humic acid prescribed where fungal activity low ●Sometimes fish hydrolysate also prescribed (where bacteria dominated and fungal activity low) ●MycoApply recommended for mycorrhizal inoculation where prescribed *Compost Tea is one of the foundations of a natural program*

Cultural Practices used in the organic/systems approach Changing cultural practices goes a long way toward suppressing weeds and promoting vigorous grass growth by promoting a healthy and deep root system which uses water more efficiently. Taller grass keeps weed seeds shaded and helps prevent them from germinating.

● Sharp blade on mower ● Mow tall- set to about 3” ■ Never take off more than ⅓ of the blade to avoid stressing grass. ■ Leave grass clippings (after transition and after you have developed healthy soil) ● Water less frequently but for longer periods of time--encourages deep root growth--”longer blade/deeper roots” ● Use compost tea regularly (*the foundation of the organic program*) ● In October/November, cut grass shorter (2” or shorter) ● In Fall: ○ Aerate ○ Dethatch if necessary ○ Topdress compost ⅛-¼” deep over lawn after aeration ■ Ideal compost is 35-50% organic material ○ Overseed

Adjust expectations…. Systems approach will result in fewer weeds….but there may be some. Consider being more open to dandelions and remember that kids love them, and dandelions provide food for bees in spring before they have other forage.

Clover used to be ADDED to lawns because it grows with nitrogen fixing bacteria that take nitrogen from the atmosphere and make it available to clover. Clover roots ‘leak’ nitrogen which becomes available to the grass. Having some weeds can be a good thing for pollinators and people alike!