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The incline of the loom was used to produce the lease. In addition to simple linen patterns (two-harness), such a loom was capable of producing more sophisticated of the four-harness type, e.g. twills. Perhaps the earliest Danish sample of four-harness twill is the Huldremose find for which the pattern is described in this latest CUM weaving book. All designs shown in this book have been exhibited in "Charlottenborg" art gallery, Copenhagen, and at the "HGA Convergence 74" in San Francisco. Layout: Bent Thaisen Composition: Miniprint CUM was awarded 14 Gold medals Print: Bondes offset at the International Design: Ellen A ndreasen Textile Exposition in California Photos: Bent Jacobsen 1967 —1968-1969 C4VN'' CUM In our latest CUM weaving book we have chosen to display the new design of our craftsmen against the background of Lejre, a reconstructed prehistoric settlement near Roskilde. Our choice was well considered.The manufacture of textiles is after all an acient occupation — indeed some people claim that it was not until man had learned to make clothing for himself that civilisation really com- menced. Denmark is particularly fortunate in having a direct parallel between prehistoric and modern weaving because no where else in Europe have climate and soil conditions combined to preserve so many fine fabrics from man's earliest centuries. We therefore start with a brief look at the ancient history of weaving, with instruc- tions on how with modern materials we can copy some of the most beautiful and practical garments from Danish prehistory. When man began to settle, cultivate the land and keep herds of animals, weaving developed in direct relation to his sheep and flax production. Wool was carded by hand and spun into threads by means of a primitive spindle comprising a straight stick weighted at one end with something heavy such as a lump of clay or perforated stone. The scoured yarn was then used either in its natural shades or dyed with plant coloring. The National Museum in Copenhagen houses samples of skirts, embroidered blouses, capes, shawls, coats, bonnets, etc., from the Danish bronze and iron ages. These beat witness not only to changing fashions even in those days but also to increasing knowledge of different forms and techniques of weaving. huldremose chech pattern A number of women's garments have been recovered from Huldremose, a marshland archeological site in Djursland, Denmark. They include items in a form of tartan, e.g. a long Warping order: skirt and a shawl. The fabric was sffrf No. of ends Color No woven with single-spun woollen w j i~ (threads) thread. Because the material has 2 3 10 2 been underground for centuries 4 1 14 86 the colors have been reduced 2 3 to shades of light and dark 4 2 brown but there are grounds to 8 86 believe that the garments were 4 2 originally brown/yellow or 14 86 yellow/green. In order to come 6 2 as close as possible to the origi- 6 86 nal fabric in quality and 6 2 Huldremose Chech Pattern appearance we have selected 16 86 CUM 5 1/2 mm yarn for Warp: 8 2 weaving. This is a single thread CUM 1-ply wool n 8 86 yarn, and the coloring is very Weft: 8 2 similar to the plant dyes used Same as warp 16 86 in prehistoric days. Reed: 75/10 (18 dents to the inch) — Repeat group I 10 times 1 thread per heddle and 1 per 6 threads of cl. No. 2 dent Repeat group II one time Width in reed: Repeat group I 10 times Abt. 80 cm (31 a") 6 threads of cl. No. 2 Number of warp ends: 14 86 598 (inclusive of 2 selvedge 4 2 ends) 8 86 Length of warp: 4 2 3 m (abt. 3 yds.) for long skirt 14 86 Materials: 10 2 400 g (14 oz.) CUM 1-ply wool color No. 2 dark brown Weaving: oz.) 1-ply wool 500 g (18 CUM Weave filling in same order as color No. 86 yellow warping order, but leave out the Technique: edge borders of the warp (viz. Twill weave on 4-harness the utmost 52 threads). About 30 miles west of Copenhagen, in the area surrounding the village of Lejre, lies the home of the legendary Danish kings. West of this village is the world's first center for imitative experiments in archaeology and cultural anthropology — the Lejre Reseach Center. The practical testing of historic and archaeological theories about technology and house-building in the past began about 10 years ago and is met to-day with so great interest that the center every year is visited by thousands of children and adults. • rf^aw tl>J' i ,*«y<4i^: t flatwoven rugs Flatwoven rugs Width in reed: 400g(14oz.) dark 31%") yarn Warp: 80cm(abt. CUM Matt ends: oz.) medium CUM Fishnet twine 12/12 Warp 600 g (21 plus 4 selvedge ends yarn Weft: 200 CUM Matt CUM Matt yarn — double wound Materials: 400 g (14 oz.) light oz.) fishnet yarn Reed: 350 g. (12% CUM CUM Matt twine 12/12 for 2 m. Technique: 24/10 (6 dents to the inch) Plain weave (tabby) — frame loom or harness loom Measurement: llllllli Hill 80 x 130 cm (2 ft 8 inc. x 4 f 4 inc.) Allow 20 cm (7 % ") of warp for fringes. Start rug with abt. 10 picks Fishnet twine to knot fringes against. Each rug requires 3 tones of the same color and they are wound together. Quite often the medium color is wound together with the darker or lighter color as this gives a fine fmmmmm mixture. Stripe repeat 1 4 cm (l /2 ") medium double wound 8 picks medium and dark wound together 4 cm (1%") medium 6 cm (2") medium and dark repp (repp weave explained below) 8 cm (3") medium and light wound together 6 cm (2") medium and dark repp 4 cm (1 % ") 2 threads of dark wound together i™j§MPhI^^™™»™B^S1 see page 38 . «"f : f rmi in ii ? ! mrnrn afghans 7 _ 2 Heather colored Afghan Warping order: Turquoise Afghan Warp: No. of threads Color N Follow same instructions as for CUM wool 2/7 20 3070 heather colored i•ug Weft: 12 3026 Number of warp ends: Same as warp 6 3069 364 Reed: 16 725 Warping order: 45/10 (11 dents to the inch) 10 724 No. of threads Color No. For frame loom: 1 thread in 2 3042 opening and 1 in dent 2 724 60 3046 For harness loom: 1 thread in 2 3042 60 718 heddle and 1 in dent) 2 724 8 727 Width in reed: 2 3042 2 3080 Abt. 78 cm (30%") 2 724 2 727 Measurement: 8 3042 6 3080 " Abt. 75 x 150 cm (29% x 5 ft) 8 3068 1 3025 Number of warp ends: 8 3069 2 3080 360 (inclusive of 2 selvedge 2 3070 1 3025 ends) 2 3069 2 3080 12 3025 Tension of weft: 150 Center 3026 Abt.
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