The Wild East -Fringes of A Photography Journey | April 20 to May 5, 2016

Since spending a month in Bhutan as a guest of the Queen a decade ago, I have traveled to many places in Africa, Asia and Latin America, and yet when people ask me the most beautiful country I've visited. I never hesitate to tell them Bhutan. A country, as you may know, created the concept of which is evident in the safeguarding of their culture and shepherding of their environment. The landscape is breathtaking, the dzongs aesthetically beautiful, and the Bhutanese culture rich and sustaining. A trip to Bhutan will be very high on your list as one of the most memorable trips of your lifetime and you will also return with images that will clearly show how you have become a better photographer.

With the advent of digital photography, everyone has become a "photographer" yet there are few who really see and create images that are compelling and dynamic. During this trip, we will work with each other to help develop his or her unique vision and will culminate in a collection of images that will be visual gifts to us all. The Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan will provide an untouched paradise of astonishing landscapes, from thick pine-forested mountains surrounding sublime valleys against the backdrop of the majestic snow-capped Himalayas.

Before departure, we will review each participants work, give feedback, and suggest each person write a short paragraph on what they like about photography, their purpose in making images, and what themes they want to express in their work. In preparation for the trip, participants will receive detailed trip notes, including suggested equipment, with practical details such as batteries, image file handling and backups, and cultural considerations when traveling in Bhutan.

The body of my work has focused on people, and though we will have every opportunity to photograph the incredible landscapes of Bhutan, we will be engaging with the people of the country frequently and as often as possible. Although, we will follow a planned itinerary, the informal environment, small size of our group, and our unrushed schedule allows for flexibility and spontaneous, authentic photographic opportunities throughout the trip. Before, during, and after our return we work as a group on post production techniques with Photoshop and Lightroom, learning and sharing how we can get the most out of our favorite images.

INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com THE WILD EAST TRIP ITINERARY the way to Saling village, pausing for photographing as we go. The area is home to a rare highland ethnic Getting There group called Dakpas, who live primarily in the twin Please contact us for international flight assistance and pre- villages of Merak and Sakteng. The 253-square-mile and post-tour hotel and other arrangements at (415) 731- Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary is near Trashigang, 4377 or [email protected]. Bangkok is our gateway actually created in part to protect the migoi or as we for the start of this trip. know it, the mythical yeti. The area is home to a variety of bird species including rufous-necked Wednesday, April 20 | North America to BANGKOK hornbill (Aceros nipalensis), Chestnut-breasted Overnight Bangkok Airport Novotel Partridge (Arborophila mandellii), and Pallas’s Fish eagle (Haliaeetus leucoruphus). En route, we will Thursday, April 21 | BANGKOK – SAMDRUP JONKHAR witness some raw silk weaving in the village of Radhi. Our first morning we fly direct from Bangkok to Guwahati, In the afternoon, drive back to Trashigang and before India. After arrival and clearing immigration (visa required), dinner explore the city market and massive Dzong meeting with our local guide and driver and after a stroll overlooking the Gamri-chuu River. around Old Guwahati, depart towards the border. En route stopping to visit to a small village, witnessing local life, including traditional silk weaving, the mainstay of the local economy. Almost every house has an adjacent shed or karkhana that houses the traditional bamboo looms, the gentle click-clacking of which can be heard along the streets. Talented weavers create intricate patterns on gold ‘muga’, a rare wild silk that presents a striking tableau for photography this first day. Afterwards, driving to the border and after immigration formalities (Bhutan visa required), arrive into the busy border town of Samdrup Jongkhar, our final destination for the day. Bangkok to Guwahati by Druk Airlines (1hr 30 minutes) Guwahati to border – by bus (about 3 hours) Overnight in local hotel

Friday, April 22 SAMDRUP JONKHAR – TRASHIGANG Today, depart early morning on an all-day overland journey to Trashigang, the largest city in Eastern Bhutan and trade center with India. Leaving the plains behind, our drive ascends over several mountain passes, through tropical April 24 | TRASHIGANG – LHUNTSE forests of teak and bamboo, terraced fields, and through Today we continue meandering through the smaller rustic villages where we will pause for photography. mountain valleys and over passes towards Mongar, Also stopping at a handloom center in Khlaing, where we will moving through the verdant forests and passing over meet with younger women who are trained in traditional the eight thousand foot Korila Pass. Along the way, backstrap weaving and natural dyeing. In the afternoon, pausing in small villages. We’ll see the rearing of lac arrive into Trashigang, our base for the next 2 nights. on trees obtained from the scarlet resinous secretion Trashigang by bus (112 miles, about six hours) of a number of species of insects, that produce Overnight in local hotel various shades of red dye widely used in Bhutanese clothing. We continue to Autsho where we will stay in April 23 | TRASHIGANG a small family run guesthouse. In the afternoon, we In the morning, driving to Rangjung for leisurely trek arrive into Lhuntse, nearly fifty miles from Mongar, through the verdant landscape and mountain vistas on one of the most isolated regions in Bhutan with

INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com spectacular landscapes featuring stark cliffs and Tuesday, April 26 | MONGAR – BUMTHANG gorges rich in dense coniferous forests. The area is Today, traveling overland to central Bhutan along one known for its weavers producing textiles that are of the most beautiful routes in the Himalayas crossing generally considered the finest in the country. the 4,000 m (12,300 foot) Thrumsingla Pass. Traveling Autsho – Phayul Guest House westwards winding into the beautiful valley of Bumthang in the heart of Central Bhutan, stopping to Monday, April 25 | LHUNTSE – MONGAR visit Ura in the Ura valley, a traditional village with a We drive about 1½ hours to Khoma a pastoral village medieval feeling. Continue to Choekhor Valley. nestling in a valley in the Himalaya with traditional Overnight in Lodge houses and cobbled stone courtyards, renowned for the artistic weaving of complex and intricate patterns Wednesday, April 27 | BUMTHANG called Kushutara and Ngoshom, among the most After breakfast, visiting the 7th-century Jambey expensive textiles in Bhutan. A wonderful opportunity Lhakang (temple), one of the oldest in Bhutan and to meet and interact with the weavers many of whom Kurje Lhakang where all the Kings of Bhutan are work outside on backstrap looms in the paddy fields. cremated. Drive across the river to Tamshing village In the afternoon, visiting with monks at the beautiful and . We visit a local house and spend time perched in the hill overlooking the in Jakar market with its eclectic mix of small open- expanses of the Lhunste valley. In the afternoon, drive fronted shops before moving on to stop by a farm to Mongar. Mongar marks the beginning of eastern sampling the local buckhwheat noodle (putta), araa- Bhutan. The second largest town in the subtropical local wine, and salted butter tea. Late in the day, we east, Mongar, like Trashigang further east, is situated will visit the and explore the Chamkar on the side of a hill in contrasts to other towns of bazaar before dinner. western Bhutan which are built on the valley floor. Overnight in Lodge.

Mongar Dzong is one of Bhutan's newest Dzongs, built Thursday, April 28 | BUMTHANG – TRONGSA only in 1930s, yet was built in the same way as ancient In the morning we drive to Trongsa, en route stopping Dzongs without any drawings and no nails have been to see the yatha weaving center at Zukney. Trongsa, used. A visit to the Dzong gives visitors an impression one of Bhutan's oldest towns (its first monastery was of how traditional Bhutanese architecture has built in 1543). continued to thrive through the centuries. Overnight in hotel A highlight of a visit here is the magnificent dzong, which will occupy our afternoon as we photograph the the structure and spend time with resident monks. Constructed in 1644, it served as the original seat of power of the of the ruling dynasty of Bhutan. All kings of Bhutan are first given the title of penlop (governor) of Trongsa, and the first and second kings ruled from the town.

The main bazaar is situated along a striking lane of white traditional houses. It is a good place to break the journey from to Jakar. In the afternoon, visit the Museum and . Overnight in hotel.

INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com Friday, April 29 | TRONGSA – and follow ancient riverside trails amid whitewashed We drive to Punakha, en route visit the Chendibji farmhouses. We continue to Punakha and in the chorten. (about 5 to 6 hrs). We will make frequent afternoon visit Bhutan's most recognized temple after stop on the way for photography in local villages the Tiger's Nest, the , arguably the witnessing daily life. most beautiful Dzong in the country. "Punthang Dechen Phodrang" (The Palace of Great Bliss) was After reaching Punakha, enjoying a short hike of about built in 1637 by the Zhabdrung as a war fortress. an hour through local farms, fields of mustard, and Today, it is the second oldest and second largest villages to the monastery, . The site dzong in Bhutan and the dzong showcases the finest was built in 1499 by the 14th Drukpa hierarch, examples of Bhutanese arts and crafts along its walls Ngawang Choegyel, after the site was blessed by the and interiors. "Divine Madman" the maverick saint Drukpa Kinley whose legacy was many legends about his unorthodox ways of teaching by singing, humor, and outrageous behavior, often bizarre, shocking, and with sexual overtones. Yet Drukpa Kuenley is one of the most revered and followed saints in Bhutan, and his symbol – the phallus – will be noticed in various forms within Bhutanese houses and restaurants. One of the odd aspects of the temples is its place as a pilgrimage site for women who come seeking blessings for children and will receive a thump on the head by the presiding Lama with a 10-inch ivory, wood, and bone phallus as well as the bow and arrow supposedly used by the Divine Madman himself. Of special interest is the Kuenrey, a temple at the far end of the Dzong with awe-inspiring giant statues of Punakha, the former capital of Bhutan until 1955, is a the Buddha, flanked by the Guru and the Zhabdrung, picturesque town surrounded with snowcapped and a ceiling of hundreds of beautifully painted Himalayan slopes known for the massive Punakha dragons adorning it. Here are also the most beautiful Dzong. Known in ancient times as the Druk Pungthang paintings of the 12 episodes of the life of the Buddha Dechhen Phrodang or “the palace of great happiness”, (Zedpa Chuni). the Punakha Dzong was the second dzong to be built in Bhutan. The fortress-monastery was built in 1637 by Bhutan’s former winter capital, built in 1637 at the Shabdung Nawang Namgyal in a commanding position confluence of the Mo Chu and Po Chu (the Mother at the confluence of the Po Chhu and Mo Chhu (Father and Father rivers). The winter capital was established and Mother rivers). It once served as the seat of the in this location in part because Punakha is a warm Kingdom's government and is now the winter home of valley with a relatively low altitude of 4,100 feet, Je Khempo, the head abbot of Bhutan, along with a allowing for the production of two rice crops each retinue of about 1,000 monks. year, along with oranges, mangos, and bananas.

Saturday, April 30 | PUNAKHA After refreshing tea at the temples teahouse, return At the village of Nezigang, we hike up through to resort for dinner and accommodation. The cultivated fields and little hamlets to visit the Punakha Dzong is an architectural wonder and seat of Khamsum Yuley Namgay Chorten, a shrine built the head abbot of Bhutan. It has survived six fires, recently by the royal family. The shrine is an elaborate two glacial lake bursts, and an earthquake. This structure with a rainbow of Guru Rimpoche images labyrinthine dzong has played a pivotal role in and superb views of the Punakha Valley. We descend Bhutan’s history and has the official name of Druk

INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com Pungthang Decchen Phodrang, which translates as animal. On the way back the bus will stop at the “the palace of great happiness.” Overnight in the hotel National Emporium. Total Hiking Time: About 3 hours Monday, May 2 | THIMPHU Today, driving a half hour north of Thimpu for a leisurely hike up to the , a retreat built in 1688 and now serves as a university allowing visitors to have an intimate look into the daily life of a student of Buddhism. The student monks are kind and will invite us in for tea and snacks. The dzong is marked by impressive examples of Bhutanese architecture, finely crafted murals of Buddhist lineage (especially notable is the one of Jetsun on the right wall to the main temple entrance) and there are sacred relics of the of Buddhism. We will visit the main temple and also linger in Tango’s inner courtyard, beautifully painted Sunday, May 1 | PUNAKHA – THIMPHU in bright colors, with lovely views stretching across In the morning, driving to Thimphu (about 3 hours) the Thimphu Valley. over the spectacular Dochula, pausing to savor the expansive tableau of high peaks. In the afternoon after After visiting the monastery, return to Thimphu for arrival, visiting the weekend market and lunch followed by afternoon, exploring highlights of photographing a traditional archery competition. the capital, including the Arts and Craft School which offers a comprehensive eight-year course in the With a population just over 50,000, Thimphu is small techniques of traditional art in religious and secular and like no other capital city; set in a unique valley, paintings, woodcarving, clay and traditional with distinctive architecture reflective of the harmony mask making. We will meet and observe students of tradition and Jakarmodernity. The capital Thimphu working through progressive levels practicing the itself sprawls up the wooded western hillside of the precise rules and traditions of . Wang Chhu and is the center of government, but also religion and commerce. A city with no traffic lights where police still direct traffic at intersections, yet it is the largest city in the country and seat of the government as well as the main hub of commerce. After hotel check-in, sightseeing in central Thimpu sights and shops by preference.

Thumphu's main cultural and historical attractions, include Institute of Traditional Medicine, School of Traditional Arts and Crafts, Folk Heritage and Textile Museums, and the Jungshina Handmade Paper Factory (Bhutan in ancient days was the biggest supplier of paper in the Himalayan region for printing religious scriptures and prayers). Next drive a short distance to the Sangaygang hill shrouded in hundreds The Folk Heritage Museum is also an interesting of colorful flags with a great view over the capital city. museum place, set in an older traditional house. The Walk a short distance from here to the National museum is a walk through the changing rural Animal Sanctuary to see the unique Takin, the national traditions, habits and crafts, compared with those of

INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com the past. back of a tigress, bringing Buddhism from .

In the evening the National Memorial Chorten is a Hiking to the monastery viewpoint takes about one pleasant setting to observe locals reciting prayers at hour and another hour to arrive at the temple itself, dusk. The was built in 1974 in memory of the with our total hiking from about 7:30 to 11:30 AM (if third king of Bhutan. time and energy level allow, we can head further up the mountain to visit other more remote temples and Tuesday, May 3 | THIMPHU – PARO ). After lunching nearby at the end of the After breakfast we will visit a local school during hike, return to the Uma for relaxing or continue on an assembly before departing to Paro. After our short optional visit Drugyel Dzong, in the northern side of drive, exploring Paro, visiting the National Museum the valley, and the 8th-century Kyichu temple located and Paro Dzong. there.

Paro is a beautiful valley encapsulating a rich local Tonight our farewell dinner and celebration in Paro, culture founded on hundreds of myths and legends, featuring a final presentation of some of our images. and bucolic landscapes. Mount Jumolhari (at over 7,300 meters) reigns in white glory at the northern end of the valley and its glacial waters plunge through deep gorges to form the Pa Chu (Paro River). It is home to many of Bhutan's oldest temples and monasteries, the country's only international airport and the National Museum.

Paro has hundreds of colorful Lhakhangs and Chortens, the most important being the famed Taktsang Monastery and . Paro is also one of the most fertile valleys in the Kingdom, producing a bulk of the famous red rice from its Thursday, May 5 | PARO to BANGKOK terraced fields besides wheat, millet, potatoes, apple After savoring a last sunrise over the valley and and seasonal vegetables. Most of the trade of Bhutan breakfast on the veranda, transfer to close by Paro in olden times was conducted through Paro by way of Airport (ten minutes) and after farewells with guide, a low pass, the Tremo La to Phari Dzong. In spring, depart for Bangkok. After arrival in Bangkok, transit thousands of families gather at Paro to celebrate the to connecting flight (no visa required). Paro Tshechu, a four day religious festival of mask dances and folk entertainment. Bangkok Arrival Procedures Upon exiting aircraft, meet escort inside terminal area Wednesday, May 4 | PARO (escort will be holding a placard with your name) who will This morning we hike up through pine forests guide you through expedited Fastrack immigration*, festooned with Spanish moss to reach to the striking baggage claim (escorted transfer may also be provided to monastic retreat “Tiger's nest monastery” — Taktsang hotel kiosk or connecting flight, by arrangement). Palphug — an image recognized around the world. Log jay gay (see you again) and thank you for traveling with us! The picturesque symbol of Bhutan is one of the most sacred monasteries in the Himalayas. Originally erected in 1692, the temple hangs on a cliff at 3,120 meters (10,200 feet), some 700 meters (2,300 feet) above the bottom of Paro valley. The name Taktsang (stag tshang) means "Tiger's lair", legend being (Guru Rinpoche) flew here on the

INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com

Trip Details MARK TUSCHMAN A freelance photographer for over 35 years, Mark Group Size has devoted much of the past decade to 12 members & 4 on-tour staff

documenting global health challenges and Trip Fees Include women’s human rights issues, in collaboration with UN agencies, socially • Bangkok to Guwahati Airlines conscious corporations, • Paro to Bangkok Airlines foundations, and NGOs. His • Required Visas work has been featured at many international events, • Airport transfers including at the Women • Accommodation based on double occupancy in hotels Deliver Conference in 2013, listed or similar and at the Carter Center’s All meals, bottled water, and tea Human Rights Defenders • Forum in 2015. The Global • Transportation by private coach throughout Health Council named Mark Photographer of the • Expert local guides for sightseeing Year in 2010, and his images won the Grand Prize in a worldwide photo competition sponsored by the • All activities and entrance fees Social Documentary Network and Management • Tour accompanied by our English speaking tour manager, Sciences for Health. specialized in photography • Gratuities for group activities, including meals, hotels, In the last two years Mark has visited rural India as guides part of a long term project to document women’s and young girls’ lack of autonomy over their own • Taxes (as indicated above) lives. An exhibition of this project, India: Child • Pre- and Post-trip travel assistance Brides, Dowry Abuse and Girls’ Education, took place at the World Affairs Council in San Francisco and was co-sponsored by Educate Girls. Please Booking view images from this project in Mark's India Web Inquiries and reservations, please call us in San Francisco at Gallery and interview on YouTube. His most recent (415) 731-4377 or send us a message at project is a book fully funded on Kickstarter: Faces [email protected]. of Courage: Intimate Portraits of Women on the Edge and is completing a book on his images of Not Included: Bhutan. Mark also loves landscape photography, • International airfare (may be arranged through us) with work featured in a Rangefinder. • Meals other than those mentioned above Mark has lead several of our past trips including • Beverages aide from tea and water Myanmar, Vietnam, and Cambodia but his experience and connections in Bhutan are the most • Excess baggage charges compelling. His blog and photos, including Bhutan • Items of a personal nature Photo Gallery from our previous trips. • Travel insurance (ask us for a quote)

Dates Payment Details: April 20 to May 5, 2016 (16 days) with travel A non-refundable deposit of US$1,00 per person is required to reserve a space on this tour. Final payment is due 60 days Tour Cost prior to departure (February 20, 2016). $7,590 (per person-double occupancy)

Single Accommodation: $1,425

INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com

What to Expect conditioned motor coach. Road conditions in this region of Bhutan are poor and we may expect slow travel with Pre-Departure Information some delays. Only brief details of our trip are noted here. A comprehensive pre-departure packet will be sent Weather to all participants which covers equipment and Bhutan’s climate is greatly determined by elevation. April is packing, reading list, health and immunizations and generally warm and sunny with flowers beginning to bloom in more. the mountains.

Level of Activity Currency A good level of fitness is important for this trip as For rupees in India and Bhutanese Ngultrum (BTN), we will we will be traveling at high altitudes over 8,000 exchange upon arrival for U.S. Dollars. feet with a generous amount of walking and light trekking. This trip is not appropriate for those with Visas heart, respiratory, circulatory disorders, or reduced Visas are required for both India and Bhutan and we will assist mobility. with obtaining both.

We will be provided exceptional access for Telecommunications photography during this trips, including typically Bhutan enjoys a robust GSM cell phone access for roaming private events and places. Every evening, we will mobile phones in almost the entire region between Paro and review the images we've that we've created with Punakha, but in Eastern Bhutan our reception for both mobile each participant offered the opportunity to pick and Internet access will be very limited. their favorite images to be discussed in a friendly critique. Post-trip Bhutan combines well with wonderful Myanmar, location of Accommodation our previous photography trip, or the magnificent temples at We are staying in clean and comfortable basic Angkor, a short hop from Bangkok. guesthouses until reaching Bumthang when we will stay at mid-range accommodations. More Information Please contact us for trip information in San Francisco at (415) Transportation 731-4377 or by email: [email protected]. You may also We will be travelling in a comfortable, spacious, air read more about this trip in our website at: www.indochinatravel.com/country/bhutan/bhutan- photography-tour.html

INDOCHINA TRAVEL | (415) 731-4377 U.S.A. | [email protected] www.indochinatravel.com