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“Dominique Ansel “Dominique Ansel— “A culinary van Gogh.” is a wonderland.” the Leonardo da Vinci of —ALEX HALBERSTADT, —PETE WELLS, modern confection.” FOOD & WINE THE NEW YORK TIMES —JOSH DUBOFF, VANITY FAIR

DOMINIQUE ANSEL IS THE CREATOR OF THE ™, the - hybrid that has taken the world by storm. But he’s no one-hit wonder. Classically trained in , leader of a three-star Michelin kitchen in New York, and now the proprietor of New York’s highest rated bakery, Ansel has become a modern-day Willy Wonka: the creator of wildly innovative, extraordinarily delicious, and unbelievably popular desserts. Now, in his hotly anticipated debut cookbook, Ansel shares the secret to transforming the most humble ingredients into the most astonishing . Dominique Ansel: The Secret Recipes reveals the stories and recipes behind his most sought-after creations. Ansel hopes to teach dessert lovers how to cast a spell DOMINIQUE in their own kitchens and inspire innovators from every field to add a little magic to their work. ANSEL DOMINIQUE ANSEL is the chef and owner of Dominique Ansel Bakery in New York City. In 2013, Ansel was named one of Business Insider’s “Most Innovative People THE SECRET RECIPES Under 40.” That same year, the Daily Mail UK called him the “most feted chef in the world.” Most recently, he became one of Crain’s “40 Under 40.” His bakery has gone on to win every single coveted award, including Time Out New York’s “Best New Bakery” and holds Zagat’s highest ranking in the category. In 2013 and 2014, Ansel was nominated as a finalist for the “Outstanding ” award by the James Beard Foundation. Prior to starting his own business, Ansel spent six years in New York as the executive pastry chef at Daniel, Daniel Boulud’s flagship French restaurant in New York, and seven years at the venerable French bakery Fauchon.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.DOMINIQUEANSELBOOK.COM.

FOLLOW DOMINIQUE ANSEL ON TWITTER AND INSTAGRAM: @DOMINIQUEANSEL.

LIKE “DOMINIQUE ANSEL BAKERY” ON FACEBOOK. Unforgettable Desserts from the World’s Most Celebrated Bakery COMING IN OCTOBER 2014 FROM SIMON & SCHUSTER PUBLICITY CONTACT: MEG CASSIDY • 212-698-4655 • [email protected] BOOKSELLER CONTACT: ANDREA DEWERD • 212-698-7399 • [email protected] PHOTOGRAPHS BY THOMAS SCHAUER ISBN 978-1-4767-6419-1 • 8 3/8'' X 10 7/8'' • 208 PAGES • $35.00 U.S./$42.00 CAN. • • NONMERCH 9781476790206 UNCORRECTED PROOF—NOT FOR SALE. DO NOT QUOTE FOR PUBLICATION WITHOUT CHECKING WITH THE FINISHED BOOK.

Finish: Matte Poly Effects: none PDF file name: secret_recipe_blad.pdf Printer: RR Donnely # of colors: CMYK THE DAY BEFORE . . .

1. Melt the first batch of chocolate chips by setting up a double boiler: fill a pot with about 2 inches of water and let it come to a simmer, then place the stainless bowl containing the chocolate chips on top. Stir slowly with a spatula to ensure chocolate chips are completely melted and smooth before CONTENTS turning off the fire.* * If even a drop of water gets into the chocolate, it seizes and 2. In a separate microwave-proof bowl, melt the butter in the microwave turns grainy. Double check that (about 30 seconds on high). Mix it into the melted chocolate. Keep the all equipment is dry, and the mixture warm over the double boiler with the heat turned off. bowl sits well above the rim of the pot to avoid the steam. INTRODUCTION 3. In a mixing bowl, combine all the dry ingredients (granulated , corn starch, powder, and kosher salt). 1 TIME IS AN INGREDIENT 4. Add all the eggs to the dry ingredients. Whisk until fully incorporated and THE CANNELÉ TEST the batter resembles that of batter. Make sure you incorporate any THE BRIEF LIFE OF THE dry ingredients that have settled on the bottom or side of the bowl. Use a LONG LIVE THE spatula or bowl if necessary. MEMORIES WITHIN A 5. Slowly whisk in the melted chocolate and butter mixture. (If the chocolate and butter mixture cools and begins to solidify, gently reheat it over the 2 OUTSIDE THE COMFORT ZONE double boiler before incorporating.) THE WEAK SPOT 6. Add in the second batch of chocolate chips, chopped pecan pieces, and † INSPIRED BY A PEEP gently fold in with the spatula. † It’s great to make sure your ingredients are mixed well, but SMASHING THE ANGRY EGG 7. Transfer the cookie dough to a shallow baking tray or large stainless steel too much mixing overworks the SAVING CEREAL FOR CHRISTMAS bowl. Cover it tightly with plastic wrap that touches the surface of the dough and causes it to become dough. Set in a refrigerator overnight. tough. That’s why many great recipes call for a period for the dough to rest. 3 DON’T LISTEN THE DAY OF . . . TRUST THE DKA 1. Preheat to 350°F (175°C). BREAKING THE SOUFFLÉ LAWS THE REAL CRONUT™ LESSON 2. Line a baking sheet with wax or parchment paper. ETERNALLY VANILLA 3. Using your hands, break the dough into pieces the size of your palm (3½ tablespoons). Roll the dough into balls. Place the balls on the baking sheet at least 2 inches apart from each other. Press gently on the top of 4 WHAT’S IN A NAME? each ball with the palm of your hand to make a thick disk. This batter THE PERFECT LITTLE EGG doesn’t spread too much, so it should be relatively close to the size of the DRESS UP WITH THE A NEW YORK PASTRY cookie you’d like. ME, MINI ME, AND 4. Bake for about 8 minutes on the middle rack of the oven, rotating the tray 180 degrees halfway through. When the are just beginning to crack on top but the dough is set on the edge and has a soft spot in the 5 CREATE AND RE-CREATE center (about the size of a quarter), remove from the oven. THE ’S FORGOTTEN HERITAGE 5. Let cool for about 5–7 minutes as the cookies further set. SWITCHING OUT HAM FOR JAMÓN 6. Continue with remaining dough as desired. THE APPLE OF MY EYE ONE BITE OF CHOUQUETTE SERVING INSTRUCTIONS All cookies are best eaten while warm. A glass of milk helps.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Kept out at room temperature; cookies are good for up to 2 days. The dough can be wrapped in plastic wrap and kept in the refrigerator for 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week (please defrost in the refrigerator for a few hours before baking). 6 EVERYTHING ELSE BUT THE FLAVOR THE SUNFLOWER TART ILLUSION A S’MORE FOR ALL SEASONS A SWEET POTATO SUBSTITUTE BAKING PIE IN ALASKA WHAT PURPLE TASTES LIKE THE BREAKABLE ARLETTE

7 NEVER RUN OUT OF IDEAS NEED NOT BE HOUSES A TART FROM A DREAM THE MARSHMALLOW’S DISGUISE A BESPOKE LIME TART

FINAL WORDS

RECIPES

BEGINNER MINI MADELEINES APPLE TART TATIN COOKIES POPCORN CHOUQUETTE MARSHMALLOW CHICKS PURPLE TART VANILLA ICE CREAM HOT CHOCOLATE MINI ME’S

INTERMEDIATE CANNELÉ DE BORDEAUX SUNFLOWER TART FROZEN S’MORE BLACK & BLUE PAVLOVA SWEET POTATO MONT BLANC CHRISTMAS MORNING CEREAL ARLETTE PERFECT LITTLE EGG SANDWICH GINGERBREAD PINECONE RELIGIEUSE CHOCOLATE CAVIAR TART PARIS NY APPLE MARSHMALLOW COTTON SOFT CHEESECAKE BESPOKE LIME TART

ADVANCED ANGRY EGG IBÉRICO AND MAHON CHEESE DKA CROISSANT MAGIC SOUFFLÉ BAKED “APPLE PIE” ALASKA CRONUT™

ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES AND INGREDIENTS TEMPERING CHOCOLATE YEAST AND FERMENTATION LAMINATING DOUGH MERINGUES PIPING

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 1 4/16/14 11:45 AM DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 2 4/16/14 11:45 AM TIME IS AN INGREDIENT

We eat thousands of meals in our lifetime, but just a fraction of them are impactful enough to endure in our memory. And sometimes eating, much like breathing, becomes nothing more than a secondary action. Repetition of any action dulls the senses over time, but imagine if you could hit reset and treat each moment as the first. Even the

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 3 4/16/14 11:46 AM most ordinary things can unlock the most pro- immaculate, it can nourish not only the senses, found inspirations. but the soul. For me, my first real memory of food was Preparing a great pastry is always a rush or a simple one: The warmth of the in a wait for that perfect moment. between my legs as my dad drove home from Every crusty, chewy, sweet cannelé resists the neighborhood bakery; the smell of the yeast the shortcuts cooks try to use in making them. filling the car; the crinkle of the wax paper There is no cheating when it comes to a can- bag; and that crunch of the as I wrestled nelé, and in these pages you’ll learn why. I’ll piece by piece off, starting from the heel, and talk about madeleines and how they’re similar devoured it with delight. That baguette did not to “cherry blossoms” in the beauty yet extreme survive to make it to the family dining table. brevity of their shelf life. Just five minutes out This memory lingers in my mind like a scene of the oven, and they are a completely different from a dream. product. The opposite holds true for the mac- Just what about this baguette—from a aron, and I explain why it’s one of the items no-name bakery, made by the hands of an not meant to be eaten fresh. Finally, I share my unknown —made it stand out from all story of why I’ve never had a decent chocolate the other more extravagant meals I’ve had? I chip cookie in , and why I think time has struggled to find the answer for years, and then everything to do with that fact. realized it was all about timing. So much of food We live in a world where every creation and good cooking is just that—paying attention strives to be both instantaneous and eternal. To to the invisible yet indispensable ingredient of respect time as the supreme ingredient is a bat- time. Just as every flower blooms until its peak tle of breaking habits and changing perceptions. right before the blossom wilts, all foods—in Nobody likes to wait; nobody likes to rush. But fact, all creations—have that perfect moment when you treat time as an ingredient, it changes as well. And when the timing is right, a sim- everything. ple thing can become transformative. Pure and

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 4 4/16/14 11:46 AM DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 5 4/16/14 11:51 AM THE BRIEF LIFE OF THE MADELEINE

top thinking of a dessert as just an object, Just one experience of the short and precious and start seeing it as a living thing. And life of the madeleine should teach you that it’s not Sthen, try to really believe it. only about the cooking, but also about the eating. The way I see it, the first time ingredients touch When you make something to be enjoyed, the cre- my hands, the life of the dish I’m working on begins. If ation is just as much about the person on the receiv- the Sistine Chapel were reinterpreted from the mind ing end as the one who produced it. The madeleine of a cook, God would be wearing a toque and his fin- demands that both chef and taster stop their plans, ger would be reaching out for a kitchen tool. We’ve stand at the oven, and wait. It reminds me of a time all felt it—there’s an inherent energy of life behind I woke up to see the sunrise. Stumbling around in every dish. Leftover casseroles deepen in character. the darkness and staring at the violet blue twilight Herbs wilt and blossom when hitting the hot surface for long, sleepy moments until those gratifying few of meat, unlocking their inner fragrance. A carton of minutes when the sun peeked out from the hori- ice cream sitting in room temperature starts to soften zon. It’s one of nature’s best artworks, and cannot and temper as if awakening from hibernation. Food be captured by any museum. The only option is changes and grows; it lives and then it also dies. And to wait. for the fleeting and forever young madeleine, death This is easier said than done. Everyone under- comes all too soon. stands the general logic of a “life span” for food, but Fresh out of the oven, these small, scallop-­ when you ask them to really believe, to respect it, shaped shine in a momentary glory. A slightly and to wait, it becomes a different story. We all have crispy edge gives way to a golden, ethereal center plans; we all need to be somewhere. And sometimes that releases just a tiny puff of steam in your mouth, it seems easy to buy a prepackaged madeleine rich as if exhaling its last breath. with greasy butter that helps keep it alive for longer But just five minutes after your introduction, and all but wipes out its true nature. everything starts to change. The once pillowy bites I make my madeleines to order. I don’t pipe become dense as pebbles. The crispy edges turn sticky them or bake them until someone is standing there and stale. And the light dusting of powdered sugar waiting for them. And as they stand there, rushed fades into a grayish hue as it soaks into the crumb. and frustrated at having to compromise their life Dull and lackluster, it sits in front of you, hardened, and their schedule for a pastry, they often ask me and dried-up—the very embodiment of what a pas- why they should bother waiting. try corpse would look like. Blink and you’ll miss it “Quite simply,” I answer. “It is a matter of life at its best. and death.”

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 6 4/16/14 11:51 AM DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 7 4/16/14 11:51 AM DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 8 4/16/14 11:52 AM Food changes and grows; it lives and then it also dies. And for the fleeting and forever young madeleine, death comes all too soon.

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 9 4/16/14 11:52 AM DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 10 4/16/14 11:52 AM MEMORIES WITHIN A COOKIE

he newspaper headline caught my eye: made themselves. For many of these people, cook- “America’s favorite dessert is the cookie.” ies were the very first things they baked as children. TBelow, a paragraph reported that 7 out of They remembered emptying the chocolate chips into 10 Americans chose the cookie as their favorite baked the bowl, rolling small balls of dough, and watching good, with 10 percent claiming they ate a cookie them spread and bake in the oven. It was an after- every single day. Sitting there in my tiny apartment school pastime or a weekend activity. It was for a in France at the age of twenty-five, I was baffled by loved one as a gift or a tradition during the holidays. these statistics. I had never been to America, and I And everyone pinpointed as the greatest satisfaction had yet to taste a cookie I actually liked. that final reveal from the oven, when they could bite Growing up, cookies were one of the least into a warm, just-baked cookie. These people were popular items in my neighborhood bakery. Children no longer merely tasting the flavors; they were tasting would much prefer a croissant or an over any a moment in time. cookie, which sat in the back shelves and dried out Time is not simply a measurement of minutes as the day passed. Yet somehow an ocean away, there and hours, but also a keeper of experiences. Even was an entire nation that shared a genuine and unani- people who have very different tastes feel united by mous love for this one triumphant product. No single the roles that food plays in their lives. And truly great pastry in France unites the people in the same way. creations transport us to another time by making a The first time I ever visited the United States, connection that transcends the present. The cookie I tried every cookie I could find in the stores. They is the ultimate time traveler. didn’t taste that different from the ones in France, I The first time I actually enjoyed a cookie was thought. Nothing exotic or out of the ordinary. But I when I made it myself from scratch with my sous chef watched the eyes of locals light up with passion when Anna in the kitchens of the New York restaurant Dan- asked the simple question: What’s your favorite cookie? iel during my first few years there. She, of course, had Their answers were always different. Thick made it many times growing up in the United States. or thin, crispy or chewy, with or without nuts—­ It was late at night and we just finished an especially everyone defended their choices vehemently. Some tough day. We poured chocolate chips into a bowl, we liked chocolate chips, some preferred oatmeal raisin. rolled the dough into round balls and flattened them I learned what a snickerdoodle was. Everyone agreed slightly, and then we waited by the oven for them to they loved cookies, but disagreed on what made a bake. The ones Anna taught me were chocolatey, good cookie. “I make my cookies with milk and dark flourless, slightly crispy on the edges like the corner chocolate chips,” one person told me. “Use brown piece of a brownie and extra moist, almost cakelike, in sugar,” came another tip. “I like to use molasses for the center. It was the first cookie that was mine. mine,” someone added. Today, that’s the type of cookie I make. It’s a And then—a breakthrough. I realized every- recipe that you might want to alter and adapt to your one was speaking to me from the perspective of a own tastes. But it’s what I consider to be the best cook, not a customer. The cookies in their minds cookie for the same reasons why everyone else has weren’t the ones they purchased, but the ones they their own favorites. And we’re all absolutely right.

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 11 4/16/14 11:52 AM Truly great creations transport us to another time by making a connection that transcends the present. The cookie is the ultimate time traveler.

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 12 4/16/14 11:52 AM DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 13 4/16/14 11:52 AM MINI MADELEINES

I love making this recipe . . . because it only takes 5 minutes to bake.

SKILL LEVEL Beginner

TIME 15 minutes one day before, rest overnight, 15 minutes the day of

SERVING SIZE 100 mini madeleines

INGREDIENTS TOOLS unsalted butter (preferably 84% butterfat) 115 grams ½ cup 1 medium-sized pot dark brown sugar 15 grams 1 tablespoon 1 large-sized mixing bowl 1 whisk honey 15 grams 2 teaspoons 1 microplane granulated sugar 100 grams ½ cup 1 nonstick mini madeleine pan kosher salt 1 gram a pinch 1 piping bag all-purpose (sifted) 120 grams 1 cup scissors baking powder 4 grams a pinch 1 cutting board eggs 140 grams 3 eggs small sieve lemon zest 1 gram lemon half, zested orange zest 1 gram orange half, zested nonstick spray powdered sugar (for serving)

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 14 4/16/14 11:52 AM THE DAY BEFORE . . . * Using different types of honey * 1. In a medium-sized pot, melt the butter, brown sugar, and honey is a great way to naturally flavor over a low flame and gently stir with the spatula to ensure nothing your madeleines. I love acacia burns. Keep the mixture warm over a very low flame or reheat if and wildflower honey. necessary. 2. Combine all the remaining dry ingredients (granulated sugar, salt, flour, and baking powder) in a large bowl and mix well with the whisk to break up clumps. 3. Form a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add in the eggs one † Use room temperature eggs. by one, whisking in between each addition.† That way, you will avoid cooling down the batter. If the batter 4. Once all the eggs are fully incorporated and the batter is smooth, slowly is cold, it may cause the butter drizzle in the melted butter, sugar, and honey mixture, mixing with the to seize when you add in the melted butter, brown sugar, and whisk. The final batter will still be runny and similar in consistency to honey mixture. batter. 5. Whisk in the lemon and orange zest. 6. Place plastic wrap over the bowl with the plastic touching the surface of ‡ Many recipes containing the batter and let it rest in the refrigerator overnight.‡ baking powder do well to rest overnight. This helps with the raising process, which is THE DAY OF . . . especially important for the madeleine—a pastry that puffs 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).§ up in the center when it bakes. 2. Using a spatula, add two large scoops of madeleine batter to the piping bag, so that it is a third of the way full. Make sure to push the batter § Set your oven to convection if the option is available. This toward the tip of the piping bag. allows the heat to flow more evenly, and since madeleines 3. Using a pair of scissors, make a horizontal cut toward the tip of the have a short cooking time, piping bag, so that you create approximately a ½-inch hole. this will help their “dome-like” 4. Hold the nonstick oil spray about 10 inches away from the madeleine mold center to rise. If you don’t have a convection oven, simply know and spray evenly on each shell. you may get less of a “dome.” 5. Pipe the madeleine batter into the shells so that it fills each about ¾ of the way to the top. 6. Place the madeleines in the oven and bake for about 2 to 2½ minutes. When you see the madeleine batter puff up in the center, rotate the tray ¥ If you find the madeleines 180 degrees and bake for another 2 to 2½ minutes until the edge of the sticking to the mold, in your next batch try adding a bit more madeleine is golden and the center has set. nonstick spray. Also, keeping 7. To unmold, bang the corner or sides of the pan against a cutting board so the mold clean and washing it thoroughly with a soft (not that the fresh madeleines drop onto the board. scratch) sponge will prevent the 8. Continue with the remaining batter as desired.¥ madeleines from sticking.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Using a small sieve, sprinkle powdered sugar evenly over the fresh-baked madeleines. Eat immediately (do not wait even a few minutes!).

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Madeleines are only good when fresh-baked. Do not attempt to store them. However, you can keep the batter in a plastic container (with a sheet of plastic wrap pressed to the surface) refrigerated for up to 3 days.

DominiqueAnsel_blad_.indd 15 4/16/14 11:52 AM FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE PECAN COOKIE

I love making this recipe . . . because of its forgiving nature and utterly addictive results.

SKILL LEVEL Beginner

TIME 15 minutes one day before, rest overnight, 20 minutes the day of

SERVING SIZE 20 cookies (roughly 50 grams each)

INGREDIENTS TOOLS dark chocolate chips 325 grams, to be melted 1½ cups, to be melted 1 medium-sized pot (over 60% cocoa content) 130 grams, not melted ½ cup, not melted 1 medium- or large-sized unsalted butter 45 grams 3 tablespoons stainless steel bowl (preferably 84% butterfat) 1 spatula 1 microwave-safe bowl granulated sugar 240 grams 1 cup (preferably glass) corn starch 42 grams 3 tablespoons 1 large mixing bowl baking powder 3.75 grams ¾ teaspoon 1 whisk 1 shallow baking tray kosher salt 1 gram ¼ teaspoon (or large stainless steel bowl) eggs 150 grams 3 large eggs 1 baking sheet pan pecans, roughly chopped 55 grams 4 tablespoons Wax or parchment paper

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