M argaret argaret M . Phelan

T HIS little street of 24 houses right in the middle of the city of Kilkenny was known as Bolton's Lane up to 200 years or so ago but the residences on the left hand side at least going up from High Street must be much older. These are mediaeval houses with basements, georgianised in later times. It is not clear why it was called William Street or when the name began, some consider it was named after Williams' Hotel at the south corner of the street that may have preceded Maher's Hotel there. A William Williams, High Constable of the city lived here (Pigott's Directory) in 1824. P erhaps his nam e w as given to the street. There are two other streets in Kilkenny which follow the William Street plan i.e. they lead to the west out of main street of Kilkenny—the High Street, Walkin Street and St. James' Street. Both these are through thorough­ fares, William Street is a cul-de-sac, almost—a little lane called Garden Row does lead out of it to Walkin Street but it is not for modern traffic. I have failed to place m their proper houses many of the inhabitants of 150 years ago as mentioned in the directories so thought it best just to list these as follows : PIGOTT'S DIRECTORY OF 1824 Abraham Ball Esq. Edward Brennan Mrs. E nery Rev. George Hansbrow John McCreery Capt. Mathew Ponsonby George Rothe Esq. John Tresham These are listed as nobility and gentry. As well in 1824 there lived in William Street : Catherine Corbett, Milliner & dressmaker Richard Ryan, Surgeon Patrick Gwynne, Tailor William Williams, High Constable of the City WILLIAM STREET 25

Advertisements in the Kilkenny Journal1835 for give the following information : No. 1. Morrison's Vegetable medicines Kilkenny Branch of the British College of H ealth No. 6. Mr. Patrick Costello. Solicitor No. 10. Mr. Lalor, Surgeon Dentist to the Marchioness of Ormonde. These numbers would not be today's numbers. The 19th century numbers start at right hand side of street looking up—today's at left hand side. In 1839 Sherman's Directory gives no list of nobility and gentry. Each citizen is listed under his occupation as follows : Benjamin Barton, Attorney George McCartney, Attorney John Prim, Attorney and Fire Insurance Agent William Robertson, Office of Architect William Robinson, Timber Merchant, Builders and A rchitect Mary Dunphy, Milliner and Dressmaker Patrick Gwynne, Tailor and habitmaker, same as lived here in 1824 Robert Cane, MRCS, Physician and Surgeon Judith Dawson, Tailor and habit maker Westman Griffith, Tailor and habit maker George Hastings Jephson, Professor music James Geary, Agent for Morrison's pills Savings Bank, Mr. John Fitzsimons actuary, John Robertson Esq., Treasurer In these two lists Patrick Gwynne is the only common resident. In the 15 years separating these two lists the occupants have entirely changed. In 1850 Griffiths Valuation. This list does not give occupation of dweller but does give immediate lessor and description of the holding and its net annual value. It is to be noted that almost every house has offices attached or within the premises and that only 3 buildings have the sam e occupants as in 1839, 11 years earlier. These are : George McCartney, Attorney; Patrick Gwynne, Tailor; and Robert Cane, doctor. The Savings Bank is mentioned in both lists, in Griffith's simply as "trustees.'' Griffith's List of 1850. It is to be noted that immediate ^ssors (or owners of the street) were 4 only — Lady Elizabeth Harty, William Robertson, Cornelius Maxwell and Richard Sullivan. Lady Elizabeth had the greatest number of N> WILLIAM STREET FROM GRIFFITH'S VALUATION OF 1850 Ov

1. N icholas N ow lan ...... Richard Sullivan, Esq. House, office, and yard ...... 14 0 0 14 0 0 2. Patrick M aher ...... Lady Elizabeth Harty House, office and yard ...... 8 5 0 8 5 0 3. James Neary ...... Mrs. Eliz. Hartford House, office, and yard ...... 9 0 0 9 0 0 4. Anastasia Shea ...... Mrs. Eliz. Hartford House, office, and yard ...... S 10 0 8 10 0 5. Patrick G w ynne...... Lady Elizabeth Harty House, office, and yard ...... 8 10 0 8 10 0 6. V acant ...... Lady Elizabeth Harty House, office, and yard ...... 8 10 0 8 10 0 7. Citizens’ Club ......

* Interred in St. Mary’s. WILLIAM STREET 27 houses, the biggest property. Her son, Sir Lionel Harty, was landlord in early 20th century and his relations still are today (1978). Sir Lionel used to come on Gale day to Club House Hotel and personally collect the rents. Later agents of the property were Mr. Wray, Maudlin Street, Sergeant Taylor, Banim Terrace, and Nicholas Maher.

BASSETS DIRECTORY OF 1884 Louis Prim, District Registrar of Marriages; John Power, Librarian C.Y.M.S.; Rev. Dean Hare is cited President of Y.M.C.A. (in No. 4); Rev. Robert Kennedy, Rev. Peter Henry, Rev. John Birch; Clergymen of Methodist Church; John D. Egan (Mayor's Secretary); P. Doyle; H. Gaskin, Bank employee; Geo. E. Horneck, dentist; Edmond Hughes, plumber; Mrs. Margaret Potter; Rev. John Park. It is not proposed to deal with the shops at the corner of the street, north or south for they have been described in Old Kilkenny Review for 1953 and succeeding numbers — M/s. Mahony's, Chemists, swing around the corner on the S. side and the Monster House has a similar position on the North. M/s. Mahony's was the home and business premises of P. M. Egan, Mayor of Kilkenny (1887-1889). The numbering does not start till we are past these premises. No. 1. In the late years of the last century and until 1960 this house was home and business premises of James Lawless, Merchant tailor. We are lucky enough to have a photograph of the staff in 1906. (See overleaf). James and Mrs. Lawless (nee Julia Millea of the Still, Warrington) had two sons, Edward and John, who carried on the business after their father and two daughters, Margaret and Mella, who are happily still with us. Margaret was deeply involved with the Gaelic League and is remembered in a pageant, representing the Maid of Erin, her long golden hair flowing to her waist. James Lawless worked in High Street (where Burtons now is) and in John Street (Post Office) before opening in William Street. He was a cutter to the Monster House and went as far afield as the Curragh, measuring jockeys and trainers for their clothes. 28 OLD KILKENNY REVIEW The Lawless family were preceded in No. 1 by Maher's Hotel and succeeded by Edward McWilliams, bookmaker in 1960, the present occupant. No. 1 seems to have been vacant in Griffith's list of 1850. No. 2. John Delaney also cutter is the earliest name I have here. His family have been in occupation since 1904 and are now the oldest residents in the street. Miss Kathleen Delaney has been very helpful in compiling these notes. Mr. Delaney received his early training in England and brought his bride home across the sea. Eleven children were born of this marriage, seven are still living. The eldest son, Rev. Monsignor James Delaney, is attached to the diocese of Sydney, Australia. Miss Delaney says her home (No. 2) still retains hotel furnishings and with the Lawless house must have been part both of Maher's Hotel and William's Hotel. No. 3. The names here are Taylor and Byrne — a Miss Byrne was a vocational school teacher, her sister a nurse. No. 4. The Diocesan Hall, a place of Church of Ireland activities, built by William Robertson in early years of 19th century, may have been (probably was) the place of meeting of the Kilkenny Archaeological Society for some years after 1858. This fine and distinguished building was sold to Monster House about 1,960 and sold by that firm to Colm Cochlan, Architect, about 1970. Present occupant : Royal Liver Insurance Co. A caretaker here, Mr. Tom Boyd, is remembered. In 1859 this building was Royal E ngineer's office. No. 5. The Neville family lived here around 1916. Two children, Dorothy and Claude, are remembered by the old inhabitants. Mr. Neville worked in Ulster Bank. Peter D. McCreery, Dentist, lived here after the Nevilles till his death. The distinguished trainer at the Curragh, also a Peter McCreery, was only son of the house. Mr. and Mrs. Con Sherin lived here when first married. Butler is another name here. It is now in flats, owner Oliver Kelly (the Corner House). No. 6. Dr. Charles Lyster and family lived here in early years of century with son, another Charles and two daughters. Other names here are Dorans, O'Sheas and Meades. Mr. Meade was a butler in Kilkenny Castle. Rev. Mr. Bermingham lived here in the 1920's had a very pretty daughter, Sheila, much admired. Present occupier Mrs. Mai Lalor, part set in fiats. Her late husband, Tony Lalor, patriot, builder and golfer, died 4 years ago. No. 7. In the early years of the century George Left to right : John Costello, Tom Sutcliffe, John Ryan, John Beckett, Arthur Donnelly, Maurice Moore, Loughlin Keeffe, Maurice Dowling, Miss Bessie Murray, James Lawless, proprietor. 30 OLD KILKENNY REVIEW

Clayton had a dental surgery and besides used to train a boys' brigade on Sundays. In uniform the boys marched to St. Canice's Cathedral. In John and Michael Banim's time there was a Daddy Clayton who was responsible for chairing winning members of parliament after elections. Another Clayton was Tom Clayton of the “ Hole in the Wall.” Could they and the dentist may have been of the same family? (See notes to the “ Denounced” by Michael Banim). Later names here are : Creed, Crotty and Walsh. No. 8. The earliest definite occupant I can find for this house is Dr. Robert Cane and in the event, he is to prove the most distinguished. Shearman's directory places him here in 1839, he is here when he was elected Mayor of the Reformed Corporation in 1845, here too in 1849 when elected first Hon. Treas. of the Kilkenny Archaeo­ logical Society and again Mayor in that year. In 1849 he had as his house guest Thomas Carlyle. Carlyle describes the house in “ Irish Journey of 1849 ” — “ queer old house,” he says, “ his room with 2 windows to the street and one to the back looking out on the roof tops of the old grey delapidated town.” From the street opposite he gazed into the citizens club from where, a year before, in 1848, and had addressed the poor, hungry revolution­ aries. Robert Cane was imprisoned after the 1848 rising, though he did all in his power to prevent it. He was thought to have assisted to escape and to have tended his wounds. Always a patriot and full of compassion for the people, his early death in 1858 was a tremendous blow to the town he loved — 15 years later, at the instigation of William Kenealy, Mayor, a fine Celtic Cross was raised to his honour in old St. John's Cemetery. A friend of John and Michael Banim, Cane deserves a paper to himself. He was a literary man of no mean ability; he established The Celtic Union, a weekly penny paper with archaeological and nationalist leanings. Some numbers were collected later and published in one volume “ The Celt.” Cane also wrote the story of the Jacobite Wars of 1689-'91. With great generosity Dr. Cane presented the chandeliers to the assembly room in the Tholsel in 1845 and in 1849 the castellated lodge to the Canal Walk. A fter the death of R obert Cane in 1858 his fam ily may have lived on in the house till the Potters moved in. The latter seem to have been in No. 8 for all the end years of 19th century and two Jesuit priests were born here in those years. WILLIAM STREET 31

Richard Duggan of the nearby Monster House bought the interest of No. 8 in 1902, his family occupied it till 1973 when Peter Duggan, his eldest son, died. Mark Fiennes and his wife, Jinney, are the next names here. They were both photographers of rare distinction and their work is well known by all lovers of Irish antiquities, and indeed of the Irish scene. Printing the address No. 8 William Street on their cards gives this house an added distinction. The next owner and present occupier, Mr. Kelly, Solicitor, of the firm Fitzgerald and Kelly, turned the top floors into flats and retained ground and first floor for his own office uses. Lady Elizabeth Harty was the landowner in 1,9th century and Sir Lionel Harty in this. No. 9. The McCarthy family were occupants here in early years of the century. Their niece, Mrs. Hennessy, took over about 10 years ago. Her sons, Joe and Liam, are hurlers of great distinction and rare expertise and hopefullv will carry the black and amber colours to victory for many years to come. No. 10. Names here are Brennan, Holohan and today W alshes (of Ballinaline). The Manse, a distinguished Georgian house in the little close at the top of the Street has ceased to serve its original purpose, was recently laid out in flats and is now a home for mentally retarded girls. The Orr family occuoied the Manse in the first quarter of this century, Lilian, Gerty and Harry. Lilian became a great singer and a well known teacher of singing, even after marriage to a Mr. Robertson. Mr. Bob England practised dentistry here in the 1920's. This Methdoist Church is the third to be built in K ilkenny, th e first in 1771. th e second in 1802 and this nresent one towards end of 19th century. During the First World War there was a fine Sunday parade of soldiers to noon dav service. The church has an energetic congre­ gation and services are still held at noon on Sundays. Present Minister — Mr. Roy Cooper. No. 11. Clerv's had a coachbuilding factory and forge where Regent Cinema now stands. Later Charlie Smith, a famous step dancer, as was his son. ran a boarding house here. The Smiths were retainers of the Poes of Patrick Street and Archer's Grove. An ex-service man's club situated here had Frank Devereux as caretaker. The Clery's had daughters only and perhaps the business was too difficult for them. They seem to have emigrated. P. M. Egan s printing works was around the left hand 32 OLD KILKENNY REVIEW corner into Garden Row and was later used as a Penny Dinner Kitchen. Clery s premises may have been those of Wright and O'Toole as listed in Griffith's valuation of 1850. The Regent Cinema was built in the mid 1940's. Stephen Lalor, brother of Tony of No. 6 was its first manager. Besides Clery's coach works it took over and was built on Slater's yard behind. No. 12. This fine house, now occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Des Hehir and family was probably the home of the architect, William Robertson, in late 18th and early 19th century. Its style bears the stamp of his genius, for he loved to trim his houses with fine Kilkenny limestone, as here and in Rose Hill Hotel which in 1831 was his home. Mr. Robertson was also architect of Court House and Vocational School. Later names here (all 20th century) are Mrs. Walsh, owner of the -Cloth Hall, Mrs. Brennan whose daughter married Professor Sandvoss, Mr. Neilon. D.I., and. Superintendent Lynch. It was used as Ministry of Pensions office during First World War. Tommy Murphy of Club House Hotel was in charge. Dr. Healy had rooms here on coming in from Tullaroan. Joe Hehir took over here in 1926. In notes on High Street in Old Kilkenny Review for 1953, this author places Dr. Robert Cane in No. 12. Later research has proved this incorrect and fixed Dr. Cane certainlv in No. 8. Standish O'Grady had apartments in this house when he came to Kilkenny to edit the Kilkenny Moderator at the turn of the century. In the early morning he would appear framed in the distinguished doorway, in his dressing sown and breathe deeply the mild Kilkenny air. Patriot, historian, literateur. Standish O'Grady was one of the most colourful people who ever came to live in Kilkenny and to love it deeply. In 1922 a gun was mounted on the steps of No. 12 in the Battle of Kilkenny. The gun was aimed at the Tholsel but was never fired. Thankfully No. 12 William Street and the Tholsel survive still today. NO. 13. This last house on R. side of street is associated with the Cassin family, the Grants, the Dores, the Misses Doyle, all who lived here. Present occupant — Miss Mary Corr. Fr. James Cassin. P.P.. was the first to start to write notes on William Street. NO. 14. The names here are Mr. Hennessy, Chris, Jim and Jane Brophy. Mrs. Costello, dressmaker, Simon and John Costello, and today Mrs. Judy Murphy. No. 15. Mr. and Mrs. David Deloughry came to live here July 1922, just two months after the Littles came to WILLIAM STREET 33 the street. David, interested as all the Deloughrys were and are in Ireland and in theatricals played prominent roles in Kilkenny plays. Robert Emmet and Napoleon are two well remembered. A founder and most enthusiastic member of Ossory players. David was also Hon. Sec. of Kilkenny Golf Club. The Misses Quin lived here prior to the Deloughrys. Now set in flats by the owner Dáthi de Loughrey. David de Loughrey was Income Tax Inspector as is his son, Dáthi. His three children, Dáthi, John and Brid are all interested in the theatre and John produces plays in Nenagh very successfully. No. 18= Miss Monica McDonald, dressmaker, her nieces Miss Cordell and Miss Gilligan and her very famous boarder Eileen Ni Cronin are the names here. Eileen Cronin (1879-1964) is known to every lover of the Irish tongue in Kilkenny. In 1901, the Gaelic League decided to bring a language teacher to Kilkenny, Captain Cuffe in the Chair at that meeting. When Eileen, from Ballingeary arrived in Kilkenny. 21 years of age; she was met by Mrs. Lennon (nee McCarhy) of No. 9 William St. at the station and went to stay in No. 16 and sayed there all her long years in Kilkenny (sixty at least). Something of her loyalty and rocklike stability emerges from this fact of reidence, never changing. To Eileen is due much of the success of the Gaelic League in Kilkenny and the warm love of the people for the native language. She followed Thomas McDonagh, the 1916 leader, as secretary of the Gaelic League. Miss Gilligan is present occupant. No. 17. Savings B ank in 1848: property of C ornelius Maxwell (owner of newspaper “Kilkenny Journal”). Now the antique warehouse of Joe Cahill and part of the C.Y.M.S. Paddy Doran and his wife, nee Coyle, lived here in the first quarter of this century. No. 18. Citizens Club in 1848 from whose w indow s Thomas Francis Meagher and John Blake Dillon spoke to the revolutionaries. Leaderless after the death of O'Connell (nobody had yet come forward to bind them together) and crazy with hunger they craved for guidance and did not submit to putting off advice and did not take it either. Carlyle looked straight into the windows here when he was staying opposite as guest of Dr. Robert Cane. One wonders if he noticed the fine ceiling with patriotic emblems (harps, shamrocks) that still adorns the reading room and is one of the treasures of Kilkenny. 34 OLD KILKENNY REVIEW

Here in 1835, , novelist and dramatist, was received warmly back from his travels and presented with valuable gifts. The kindly welcome must have consoled his sad heart. No. 18 is now C.Y.M.S. since 1856 and its fine rooms, billiard tables and library have proved a splendid amenity to the youth of Kilkenny for many years. The C.Y.M.S. property here in No. 17 and No. 18 was refronted in the 1930's by Michael Curran, architect, and brought into one uniform whole. A large function room at the rear was built later. Today many organisations have rooms here, the Legion of Mary and Fianna Fail to mention but two. No. 19. Major P. O'Leary was in No. 19 in 1884 when Bassett's Directory was published and is listed there as Capt. P. O'Leary of the Commissareat Dept. He was a friend of Charles Stewart Parnell. The Chief consulted him. Tie innvisible strings on his knocker, pretend they the Hackett tomb and directly behind the high altar of the church is marked bv a small but beautifully executed Celtic Cross made by Gargan Bros. He died in 1904 and is buried with his wife, Mary (1906), and daughter, Mary, 1919. The Potter boys opposite in No. 8 loved to tease him. The invisible strings on his knocker, pretend they were ghosts, etc. Next names here are Teehans (now of James' Green) Nurse Parr and the Little family since 1st May, 1922. a memorable date for there was war in Kilkenny on that day. Free State Troops were in St. Canice's Cathedral and the Irregulars in the Castle and were firing at each other across the town, but the Littles got safely in and are here now more than 50 years, the second oldest family in the street. Mr. P. J. Little, a native of Carlow, came to Kilkenny to take up a position in the People Office which he held till his retirement a few years ago. His son, Ben, is carrying on the family printing tradition to-day. No. 20. The names here are Gaskin, Slater, Manning and O'Shea. The Gaskins were insurance agents, Slaters fowl exporters, Mannings in Travel Agent business and O'Sheas in Dent, of Post and Telegraphs. No. 21. A family of Brennans from Hacketstown lived here followed by the Dukes of the R.I.C. Miss Duke was a fine musician and taught in the model school under Mr. Troughton. She married Peter Millar an expert fisherman. No's 22 and 23 were taken over by the Monster House more than 40 years ago. Names of former occupants WILLIAM STREET 35 include Troys, Tyrells and Ned O'Neill. A famous Swan Inn was situated in William Street. May Sparks thought in it and occupied the space of these two houses. The most dramatic and frightening event that occurred in William Street in recent memory was the fire in the Monster House in March 1906. It broke out in the hat dept, (men't hats) and the alarm was given by Mrs. Lawless from across the street. The Fire Brigade must have been quickly on the scene and very expert at their job for, by the grace of God, no lives were lost. Many had difficult escapes jumping into sheets from the second story. Martin Ring of 'Comer, Willie Kelly a very young apprentice, and Mr. Nolan, book-keeper, were among those who had this terrifying experience. The narrowness of the street put all the houses on the opposite side in great danger and they had to be hosed for hours. Almost all the goods were damaged and a salvage sale was held in Lawless's and in another shop in High Street. Miss Lawless remembers a beautiful cream serge that was sold at 8d a yard. The premises were quickly rebuilt plus the clock tower on the corner a landmark for 70 years. It became dangerous and had to be removed. An account of the Monster House itself was printed in Old Kilkenny Review for 1968. Many thanks is rendered by the author of these notes to the following kind informants and old residents of William Street, without whose help these notes would have been scant indeed, the Misses Lawless, Miss Kathleen Delaney, Mr. Daithi Deloughry and Mr. P. J. Little. Many others were very helpful too, esnecially Mrs. Mary Kenealy, President Kilkenny Archaeological Society. The note on the Methodist Church is taken from “ Kilkenny its History and Architecture ” by Katharine Lanigan and Gerald Tyler, published 1977.

J.R.S.A.I. To complete our collection of Journals of the Royal Soc. of Antiquaries, we need : No. 7 (1869). New Series; No. 2, Vols. 1—5 (1890); 1923, P a rt II; 1925. II; 1926 both parts: 1927 both Darts; 1945 both parts. The Hon. Librarian would be very happy to hear from anyone who could supply missing numbers. Please contact : VERY REV. JOHN'BRENNAN. Conahy, Jenkinstown.