the experts' magazine No. 33 | may 2020

On the very long path towards real page 8

Bio is not necessarily bio page 12 // editorial

Dear Customers, dear Readers, Coronavirus is not the emphasis of this edition of & Filaments, despite it remaining the primary focus of our lives and business activities. Here, I would therefore like to express just how dear to our hearts our close collaboration is – despite this now being in a somewhat modified form. To this end, digital services and networked maintenance and production are quite literally proving to be blessings. Let us remain in communication with each other by every available means and jointly develop solutions.

In such times, we unfortunately tend to forget the topic of climate change is now associated with lots of hype – with a huge number of emotional and non-objective discussions such as: Who’s to blame – man or nature? Who’s right and who’s wrong? For this, our arsenal of science- and interests-controlled weapons is restocked on a daily basis. However, the rising clouds of powder smoke are obscuring any clear vision and are favoring populist and unrealistic agendas. What is being lost here is the fact that we need greater objectivity in order to come up with a halfway uniform picture of something as multifaceted as the future of the environment. For this reason, my standpoint is that we should focus more on acquiring clarity and on acting whenever and wherever we are convinced that we can make prudent progress.

Here, the is being particularly challenged, as both the manufacture and the disposal of ever-more apparel made from are also requiring more resources and are ad- ditionally burdening the environment. Millions of tons of plastic and microplastics in our oceans are demanding solu- tions that also include a real circular economy and textile recycling. It is for these reasons that we are dedicating our current edition to these urgent issues.

As a leading manmade manufacturing system technology provider, we also feel responsible and are therefore supplying solutions for a sustainable textile and plastic industry. Recycled fibers are a growth market, with environmentally-friendly products in demand – but not at the cost of quality. There- fore, we are – with our machines designed for sustainable processes, superb fiber quality and reduced production waste – a coveted partner for solutions aimed at processing recycled fib- ers and biopolymers. With our technology for transforming bottle flakes into , we are also supporting the reutilization of plastic waste, something on which an increasing number of textile players are focusing.

Let us all continue to work together here!

With best regards,

Georg Stausberg CEO Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment

2 no. 33 | may 2020 table of contents //

in focus On the very long path towards real textile recycling 8 Closed-loop systems require big changes Bio is not necessarily bio 12 Bio-based, biodegradable and sometimes fossil: biopolymers are a family

Islands destroying paradise 16 Plastic waste is endangering the seas Recycling: engine for success 18 Ever more companies are manufacturing from single-use products Teaming up to make all fashion good 20 Global coalition for more sustainability in the textile business

on the markets Gama Recycle goes even greener with Oerlikon Neumag 24 Staple fiber plant helps a sustainable leader take global recycling to the next level 26 Carpet yarn solutions from 0.5 to 30 dpf Domotex 2020 Automated wiping reduces yarn breaks 27 First wiping robot successfully commissioned in India

From concept to reality Industry 4.0 28 Technology transfer that is creating waves Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment sets a trend with three Customer Days in India 30 innovation and technology Recycling solutions for all processes 32 Engineering and systems for recycled polyester (rPET)

solution and services Customers benefit from high availability 34 Digitalization in inventory management for spare parts

in brief 4 imprint 7

no. 33 | may 2020 3 // in brief

‘Making it Egy & Tex 2020 Oerlikon Manmade Fibers makes its mark personal’ on the African market

Dear Customers, The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment presented itself at this year’s From now on, Oerlikon Egy Stitch & Tex – held in Cairo between March 5 and 8, 2020 – with a Manmade Fibers will be clear focus on the needs of the African market. The Oerlikon Barmag and working with a new global Oerlikon Neumag experts showcased the comprehensive product and CRM (Customer Relationship service portfolio of the world market leader for manmade fiber systems at Management) system. The the stand of Oerlikon’s representative ATAG Export & Import. data protection of our custom- ers is particularly important to The spotlight of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment’s trade fair atten­ us! In the very near future, you dance was on two core technologies: the new generation of Oerlikon will be receiving two Oerlikon Barmag eAFK Evo texturing machines was unveiled within the African GDPR (General Data Protection market for the very first time. It promises higher speeds and productivity Regulation) e-mails. One e-mail with consistently high product quality, along with lower energy consumption includes a registration link, while and simpler operation vis-à-vis comparable market solutions. In particular, the other provides a temporary the numerous value-added features include two that convince with cutting- password for our Communica- edge technology: the optimized, innovative EvoHeater and the EvoCooler, tion Preference Center. a completely newly-developed active cooling unit.

Many customers have already The second technology focus offers new opportunities for the Egyptian successfully registered. To market and the Middle Eastern markets in particular: with Oerlikon register, all you need to do is Neumag’s BCF S8 monocolor and supplement the following details, tricolor system, the segment has which will take no longer than unveiled its new carpet yarn produc- 1 to 2 minutes. Please note that tion flagship. Superlative we require your consent if you speeds, up to 700 individual fila- wish to continue receiving invita- ments, finer titers of up to 2.5 dpf tions to trade fairs, seasonal the performance data and techno- greetings and our Fibers & logical finesse of the new system Filaments publication. have already made a huge impres- sion at numerous trade fairs and You can amend your personal roadshows over the past year. » (aw) information – or revoke your consent for it to be used and The two core tech- processed – at any time. nologies for the Should you have any queries, Egytian market: the BCF S8 (bottom) please do not hesitate to get and the eAFK Evo in touch with your Oerlikon texturing machine. Manmade Fibers contact partner or send an e-mail to: [email protected]

4 no. 33 | may 2020 in brief //

New thrust pad contacting device for the Baltic crimper Less wear and superior fiber quality

Technological changes to Oerlikon Neumag’s Baltic crimper thrust pad contacting device have resulted in considerably reduced friction in the crimper rolls and hence less wear and fewer metal particles contaminat- ing the crimped staple fibers.

Thrust pads close the gap between the crimper rolls on either side. Normally, these thrust pads are continually pressed – under high pressure – against the sides of Signs of wear to the thrust pad Considerably reduced wear to the crimper rolls. Wear and metal debris is the result of after 24 hours of operation using the thrust pad after 24 hours of this constant contact. The metal debris can contaminate the old contacting device with operation using the new con- deactivated thrust pad rotation tacting device with deactivated the fibers, something that is particularly undesirable in thrust pad rotation hygiene applications.

New thrust pad contacting device for reduced metal debris and greater durability With the new system, the thrust pads are pressed have demonstrated that metal debris from the pressure against the rolls with less pressure and then fixed into disks thrust pads is dramatically reduced, making them place. This prevents fibers from being caught and the between three and seven times more durable. The new frictional force between the pressure disk thrust pad thrust pad contacting device is now available. » (che) and the crimper roll is minimized. Pilot applications

FiltXPO 2020 Convincing meltblown and spunbond technology made by Oerlikon Nonwoven

In February, Oerlikon Nonwoven mance. Oerlikon Nonwoven Sales experts presented efficient solutions Director Ed McNally was satisfied and comprehensive technology with his visit to the fair: “We were know-how for challenging filtra- able to hold very qualified and con- tion tasks to an international trade crete discussions with numerous audience at the FiltXPO 2020 in trade visitors.” Chicago, USA. Main topics were meltblown and spunbond technol- Approx. 10% of the technical non- ogy for filtration ap- wovens produced worldwide are plications, as well used in filtration. For 2020, the total as electro- amount of all nonwovens produced charging for for filter applications is expected and training sessions, FiltXPO is on superior filter to be over 610,000 tons. With 200 a growth path and thus reflects the separation exhibitors and over 2,000 trade market environment. » (che) perfor- visitors as well as various lectures

no. 33 | may 2020 5 // in brief Oerlikon Manmade Fibers investing in the future With two major projects to expand the infrastructure at the German sites in Remscheid and Neumünster, the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group is setting clear signals for the future. "We have always based our global market leadership in mechanical and plant engineering on our innovative strength. It is therefore only logical to keep investing in our development, assembly and production locations," says Segment-CEO Georg Stausberg.

Groundbreaking at the nents within the spinning process. Remscheid’s Mayor Burkhard Remscheid site But our pumps are also deployed in Mast-Weisz was present at the The groundbreaking for the exten- many other industrial applications, groundbreaking ceremony, as were sion of Oerlikon Barmag’s Pump such as the car painting industry, numerous representatives of the Division took place on February the chemicals industry and other city, of the construction company 25. With an investment in the high industries. Expanding our produc- and the architect. Mast-Weisz single-digit million-euro range, the tion capacities was the prerequi- underlined the significance of the new-build site represents a clear site for optimizing our processes building project for the city. “Creat- commitment of the Manmade and fulfilling increasing customer ing new jobs on the back of this Fibers segment of the Oerlikon demand. Our clients throughout investment is hugely important Group to ensuring its business the world truly value our pumps, for Remscheid”, commented the segment continue to be future- particularly against the backdrop Mayor. oriented. of the ‘Made in Germany’ brand”, explained Klaus Lorenz, Head of “Our innovative strength has Pump Division at the groundbreak- always been the reason for ing ceremony. our globally leading market position in the manmade fiber Georg Stausberg, CEO of the systems construction sector.” Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment, Georg Stausberg, CEO of the added: “Our innovative strength Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment has always been the reason for our globally leading market position in Here, Oerlikon Barmag will be the manmade fiber systems con- manufacturing and testing hi-tech struction sector. For this reason, it is spinning, feeding and metering only consistent that we would invest pumps in the around 4,000 m² no in our development sites in Following tradition, Klaus Lorenz, Georg Stausberg and the Mayor of Remscheid, later than December 2020. The Remscheid and Neumünster.” Burkhard Mast-Weisz (from left to right), sink the attractive new-build will also house time capsule. offices and communal areas totaling approx. 500 m². With this invest- ment, Oerlikon Barmag is creating new benchmarks in terms of Pump Division's profitability, process sta- bility and logistics. Around 80 mem- bers of staff from incoming goods, logistics and pre-production with 40 production machines will be moving into the new-build, where they will also be benefiting from a new warehouse and logistics concept.

“There continues to be a high de- mand for our pumps. They are one This is what the new building of the Remscheid Pump Division (above) and the new R&D Center in of the most important core compo- Neumünster (right) will look like in the future.

6 no. 33 | may 2020 imprint // Oerlikon Manmade Fibers investing in the future

imprint

‘fibers and filaments’ is the exclusive Oerlikon Manmade Fibers customer magazine. It is published two times per year in English, Chinese and Turkish by

Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG Leverkuser Straße 65, 42897 Remscheid, Germany Oerlikon Neumag remains “The extension helps us [email protected] on course for innovation to further optimise our www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers Construction work on the exten- processes and to focus sion at the machine and plant even more strongly on our Total circulation manufacturer Oerlikon Neumag customers” 5,000 copies is currently making good pro- Matthias Pilz, Oerlikon Neumag site manager

gress and should be completed Editorial staff by early 2021 at the latest. With aw André Wissenberg an investment volume in a low Manmade Fibers segment to its bey Susanne Beyer (responsible) double-digit million range, the two product lines BCF carpet che Claudia Henkel new building also documents the yarn and staple fiber. tho Thilo Horvatitsch clear commitment of the wa Ute Watermann In Oerlikon Neumag's more than wca Will Cade 70-year corporate history, numer- ous successful product develop- Concept and layout ments stand for the innovative Make and Do, Hella Hölzer spirit of the textile machinery www.make-and-do.de manufacturer. Today, more than 500 employees work at the Print Neumünster site, around 60 of Köllen Druck + Verlag, Bonn them in research and develop- www.koellen.de ment. "The signs are pointing to growth: The extension helps us Photography to further optimise our processes Ralf Buchholz, European Bioplastics, DuPont, and to focus even more strongly Fashion for Good, Rickey Steele, private, archive, Joining forces at the groundbreaking on our customers", says Oerlikon ceremony: Matthias Pilz, Neumünster Head of iStock.com/smartboy10, iStock.com/Photoboyko, Neumag site manager Matthias the Town Council Anna-Katharina Schättiger iStock.com/RecycleMan, iStock.com/Ales_Utovko, and Mayor Olaf Tauras (from left to right). Pilz. » (wa) iStock.com/azmaners, iStock.com/albertobrian, iStock.com/DimaSobko, iStock.com/Fascinadora majcot(Shutterstock.com

Disclaimer All indicated values and descriptions in this document are for indicative purposes only and not to be understood as a guarantee. Please note that actual values may differ from any data published in this document.

Electronic Version (PDF)

no. 33 | may 2020 7 // in focus

Closed-loop systems require big changes On the very long path towards real textile recycling Ever-more fashion retailers are establishing take-back systems – but the world is still a very long way away from having a closed-loop system for textile recycling. Collecting and sorting clothing, separating materials, recycling – virtually each of these steps demands quantum leaps both in terms of concepts and technology. Meanwhile, the mountains of used textiles are growing ever taller because clothing has become a throwaway product. It is particularly for this reason that we must praise the many individual recycling activities that are showcasing the trend towards greater environmental awareness. A stock-take.

his figure provides food trend does indicate that the overall of water; and incinerating ever-more

for thought: when talk- situation is escalating. According textiles also generates more CO2 ing about closed loop to said study, the global consump- emissions. Add to this the fact that T recycling, just one percent tion of textiles is expected to rise to there will likely be fewer takers for of clothing manufactured in 2015 130 Mta by 2025 – faster that the the growing volumes of collected was recycled into new fibers for the world’s population in terms of per- used textiles. Avid collectors such apparel industry. This is one of the centages. A significant reason for as the US, Germany and the United findings of the British Ellen MacAr- this is the fact that the consumption Kingdom have to date been export- thur Foundation, whose focus is to of clothing has risen, particularly in ing a significant proportion of used create an advanced closed-loop the last decade, driven by fast- clothing to secondhand markets. recycling system for the future. Its paced fashion and cheap products However, their target regions – study estimates global fiber produc- of poor quality. At the same time, such as East Africa and India – are tion for clothing alone over the ex- the frequency of use for clothing meanwhile starting to fight back, amined period to be 53 million tons has fallen rapidly: in the USA – a as their own textile manufacturers a year (Mta), of which 73 percent fast-fashion paradise – for example, are suffering due to the existence of end up in landfill or are incinerated. an item of clothing is now worn on both these secondhand products Around 13 percent are recycled, average just 40 times, while this and cheap new products from Asia. usually turned into cleaning cloths figure has fallen from 200 to 62 Textile collectors are themselves or insulation materials, while a times in China over the past 15 also struggling with the latter, as further 12 percent are cut-offs from years. Clothing has become a the poor quality in part does not production and excess stocks that disposable product. even suffice for these textiles to be are disposed of. One percent is mi- turned into cleaning rags. Ergo: croplastics, tiny plastic particles less And that has far-reaching conse- used textiles warehouses are over- than five millimeters in diameter that quences. Rising consumption of flowing, prices are falling and sorting are released from synthetic textiles textiles goes hand-in-hand with an these textiles is becoming more when washed and end up in our increase in the use of resources and complicated and expensive. And, in ground water. a rise in the impact on the environ- the European Union, new closed- ment. Because the lion’s share of loop system and waste framework It goes without saying that the study clothing manufacturing requires guidelines are generating even is in part based on estimates, as it polyester and therefore crude oil, greater pressure. To this end, the is – even today – difficult to acquire while cultivating uses pesti- so-called Green Deal – within the reliable figures. However, the current cides, fertilizers and a huge amount context of the closed-loop economy

8 no. 33 | may 2020 in focus // On the very long path towards real textile recycling

action plan – demands that all EU low the mountain of landfill waste to industry doing today when it comes countries adhere to prescribed be further decreased, reduce fiber to recycling? What do the current recycling quotas and collect textiles production, lower energy and water technical solutions look like? separately to lower the volumes consumption and environmental of household waste ending up in pollution. However, this refers less Re-manufacturing and landfill. Whether this should come to so-called open-loop recycling – take-back systems into force from 2025 or earlier has in other words, the shredding and Major fashion companies have yet to be decided. But where will processing of textiles into lower- been taking back used clothing and even more of these collected goods quality products () for shoes for some time now, exchang- be taken to? And can money still be other industries – but specifically to ing these for shopping vouchers. made with them? closed-loop recycling, i.e. returning Here, service providers such as the recycled materials from cloth- Germany-based I:Collect operate Urgently required: ing to the manufacture of clothing worldwide take-back systems with closed-loop textile recycling or quality textile products (upcy- collecting, sorting and recycling This large-scale picture clearly dem- cling). However, this ideal situation solutions that sector giants such as onstrates that textile recycling is still requires technological further Adidas, Levi’s, H&M and C&A are desperately required. This would al- development. So, what is the textile already utilizing. In the best-case

no. 33 | may 2020 9 // Rubrikin focus

scenario, the used textiles be- found in the world’s oceans – to be come secondhand goods, but also used as a resource and not just for cleaning cloths and filling materials. the textile sector, but above all for In part, secondary raw materials – the plastics industry. such as fiber blends, rubber and leather – are extracted. The trend of transforming old PET bottles and textile waste made This solution is considered an ex- from polyester into new fibers and cellent example of progressive me- textiles has already been long chanical recycling, but also reveals underway. Many companies are its limitations. The sticking point lies already producing bottle flakes and in separating the materials. Clothing recycled fibers for textile process- is usually made using mixed fabrics ing. 100-percent recycled products and is also often dyed or otherwise encompass the most diverse items, (chemically) finished. Breaking including jackets, sneakers, down the woven fibers sports bras, luxury into their specific bags and also ge- components ogrids used for has not reinforcement only been in road technically construc- complex, tion. And time- many con- major suming, apparel energy- compa- intensive nies are and focus- expen- ing on sive (if it recycling, works at all) sustainability to date, the and environ- results have also mental awareness been poorer in terms as a way of augment- of quality than the original ing their brands. In 2018, product. Hence, real fiber-to-fiber Adidas announced that it will be recycling is neither possible, nor using exclusively recycled polyes- economical. ter for all its shoes and apparel by 2024. Machine manufacturers are From chemical recycling to also servicing this trend: to this end, fibers made from PET bottles Oerlikon Manmade Fibers offers Chemical recycling promises to be sophisticated engineering solutions a future solution, particularly with for mechanical recycling. regards to polyester waste. Here, even contaminated or mixed plas- Numerous fiber types, tics are thermochemically treated numerous recycling models and converted back into raw Mohawk, a leading recycler within materials such as oil and gas. With the carpet industry, also uses this, polycondensation processes Oerlikon Manmade Fibers systems. can be used to make polyester The US company processes PET for textile fibers. This would allow bottles into new carpets and recy- plastic waste – such as the plastic cles old carpets to create and

10 no. 33 | may 2020 in focus //

PP pellets for the automobile and recycling. The cotton was converted furniture industries. Dutch company into high-end viscose filaments, while DSM Niaga even promises that the polyester was transformed into it is able to repeatedly recycle its pure, new monomers. carpet products made from mono- materials and duo-materials – all in Until 2022, the German ‘DiTex’ an economical manner. And US car- support project will be using digital pet maker Interface boasts that its technologies to place a spotlight

products are completely CO2-neu- on the complete cycle in a model tral – from their manufacture all the for fiber-to-fiber recycling of oc- way through to the end of their life – cupational clothing and bed . and uses recycled PVB compound Here, the aim is not only to produce material made from old windscreens new, high-quality materials from to produce environmentally-friendly the textile fibers, analyses of the carpet tiles. entire lifecycle of the textile products should also ascertain what benefits Recycling apparel with a high ratio recycling offers over comparable of cellulose, i.e. cotton and viscose, products made from new fibers. has also been shown to be suc- The ultimate objective is to market cessful. To this end, the Swedish commercial recycled textiles. company RE:newcell manufactures biodegradable cellulose for cloth- The latter project places the focus ing in this way. Here, used clothing on one thing above all: establishing is shredded, buttons and similar functioning closed-loop systems re- things are removed, the items are quires the collaboration of all players decolorized and finally chemically across the entire value chain. Here, pulped. The process generates cost the question arises: is it possible benefits vis-à-vis producing wood to convince a billion-dollar industry pulp, but has disadvantages with such as the textile sector to make regards to economies of scale com- far-reaching changes to its process- pared to large-format systems. es and its way of thinking? Because it is precisely this that is required Focus on closed-loop recycling to achieve a closed-looped textile As you can see, there are several recycling system. This colossal mis- concepts for the successful recycling sion has already started: recycling of mono-materials, also with regards initiatives in some countries demand to fiber-to-fiber recycling. Although that the fashion sector considers there are very few technologies later recycling as early as the design aimed at recycling blended fabrics, phase. Politicians and pressure there are however research develop- groups create and promote legal ments. In 2017, the H&M Foundation rules and regulations on expanded announced that it had – in collabora- manufacturer responsibility for tion with the Hong Kong Research textiles, also with regard to closer Institute of Textiles and Apparel cooperation between producers (HKRITA) – developed a hydrother- and disposers. But it is the con- mal (chemical) fiber-to-fiber recycling sumer that has the most effective process that separates cotton and lever here – although they would polyester fibers. The same year, Mis- have to decide not to purchase the tra Future Fashion, a multidisciplinary cheap T-shirt, but opt for the more Swedish research project, succeed- environmentally-friendly alternative. ed in completely re-utilizing poly- » (tho) cotton blends by means of chemical no. 33 | may 2020 11 // in focus

Bio-based, biodegradable and sometimes fossil: biopolymers are a patchwork family Bio is not necessarily bio Bioplastics are on the rise: they also offer the textile Institute for Bioplastics and Bio- market ever-more alternatives to manmade fibers composites (IfBB) at the Hanover University of Applied Sciences and produced from fossil raw materials – with forecasts Arts is to be believed. The research- predicting double-digit growth. But there are also ers predict a global rise in the pro- sobering headwinds: their ecological qualities are duction of bioplastics from 2.61 to currently not sufficient to get a handle on the global 4.35 million tons between 2018 and problem of rising plastic waste both on land and at 2023 – an increase of more than 10 percent per annum. This sounds sea. Here, a differentiated look at the science is well like very little in view of the 359 worthwhile. million tons of conventional plastics (source: Statista) plus 66.6 million ven the name of the fam- polymers are produced. They, for tons of synthetic fibers (source: The ily of bioplastics requires example, break down into various Fiber Year 2019) manufactured in some explaining: here, metabolic products using microor- 2018. To date, the currently low oil E bio is not necessarily bio. ganisms. Bio-based plastics can prices, reluctant political support, To this end, we have – on the one be, but do not necessarily have limited market access and expen- hand – bio-based plastics; they to be, biodegradable. Conversely, sive manufacturing processes are are partially, or completely, manu- there are also polymers made from hampering the success of bioplas- factured from plant biomass such fossil raw materials that are bio- tics. According to the study, the as maize, sugarcane or cellulose. degradable. So, bioplastics are a market is expected to develop and On the other hand, biodegradable veritable patchwork family. rising environmental awareness among consumers and brands is A family with excellent future anticipated to increase demand. prospects, if a current This trend is also supported by market survey con- innovative materials for bioplastics ducted by the with improved properties and new functionalities and by the develop- ment of ever-new alternative plastic products and applications.

And biopolymers are a future market for the textile industry as well. According to the IfBB, 252,000 tons were used in textile applications in 2018,

Salomon uses DSM’s EcoPaXX fibers made from bio-based polyamide for its mounteneering shoe chassis.

12 no. 33 | may 2020 in focus //

Bio-based, biodegradable and sometimes fossil: biopolymers are a patchwork family Bio is not necessarily bio ranking second behind the dominant packaging applications (together making up just under 1.86 million tons). In turn, this figure seems tiny compared to the already-mentioned 66.6 million tons of synthetic fibers produced in the same year. However, the following applies both to the textile market and all other areas of use: bio- based biopolymers in particular do not require fossil resources such as crude oil, whose processing causes environmental disadvantages and which is becoming ever-scarcer and will therefore become ever-more expensive in the future. For this reason, the textile industry is also increasingly looking at using such alternatives.

The biopolymer polylactide (PLA), for instance, has been manufactured on an industrial scale for quite some time now. PLA is manufactured by means of polymerization of lactic acid, which is derived from maize or tapioca starch and is therefore completely bio-based and simultane- ously biodegradable. In addition to packaging, the material is also used as spunbond rolled goods as well as in filling fibers or in apparel worn directly on the skin. PLA ensures su- perior moisture balance, as it is able to relinquish and release more water than PET. It is also attributed antimi- crobial qualities. Leading PLA manu- facturers produce in the US (Nature- Works), the Netherlands, Germany and China, for example. Experts predict that demand for biopolymers will increase, as they can also tap into areas of use beyond that of conventional plastics. It is anticipated that PLA production capacities will double by 2023, while the manufac- ture of bio-based, non-biodegradable polytrimethylene terephtalate (PTT)

no. 33 | may 2020 13 // in focus

– used in the production of fibers for carpets for example, are good for to biodegradable polymers. The carpets and other textiles – is also spinning, have good mechanical University of Plymouth in the United expected to rise. properties as well as a high de- Kingdom discovered that these do gree of textile wear comfort and not break down in the environment One successful PTT product is even exceed the classics in terms very much faster than conven- Sorona® by DuPont, for example. of their heat resistance and mois- tional plastics. Its study compared This bio-based polymer fiber has ture absorbency. TERRYL® has shopping bags made from various a weight ratio of 37 percent of an- also established itself in the high- plastic materials: conventional ones nually renewable plant-based raw performance industrial yarn market, manufactured from polyethylene, materials. It has the properties of which requires high melting tem- biodegradable, compostable and polyester (PET) and nylon, is very peratures and high modulus. “We so-called oxo-degradable ones, soft and is extremely durable and are collaborating intensively with which (incompletely) degrade in the stain-resistant. Sorona® is deployed Oerlikon Barmag in order to gener- absence of UV light, heat or oxy- gen. After three years under stable Experts predict that demand for biopolymers will laboratory conditions, in the open increase, as they can also tap into areas of use air, in the ground or in beyond that of conventional plastics. the sea, the results were very sobering: in carpets, apparel and automo- ate optimum system processes for only the composta- tive textiles, for example. DuPont manufacturing fibers using bi- ble bag had lost advertises performance first and opolymers”, comments Alex Kedo, some firmness in foremost with the added benefit of Vice President of Cathay Industrial the ground and enhanced sustainability: their manu- Biotech in Shanghai, China. Markus had completely facture requires 30 percent less Reichwein, Head of Product Man- decomposed energy and emits 63 percent fewer agement at Oerlikon Barmag, talks in the sea after greenhouses gases than in the case about several clients who have three months. of the production of polyamide 6. already acquired extensive experi- However, it re- Compared to polyamide 6.6, the ence with bioplastics using Oerlikon mained unclear manufacture requires 40 percent Barmag systems: “Biopolymers here whether less energy and emits 56 percent such as PA 5.6 and PLA are high microplastic fewer greenhouses gases. “Sorona® on the agenda, particularly in China residue was is being used, more and more, and Asia, where global bioplastics released into as a stretch fiber replacement for production is concentrated. Here, the water. due to its inherent superior we are registering growing custom- performance and sustainability ben- er interest in such . In other Another argu- efits. Sorona® polymer fabrics can words: consumers are increasingly ment currently be sorted into today’s 100 percent demanding sustainable clothing.” casts doubt on the polyester fabric recycling streams ecological benefits without compatibility issues”, says Incidentally, bio-based materials are of biodegradable K. Ranjan Samant, Technical Fellow – contrary to what some say – not plastics. DuPont Biomaterials. really manufactured at the expense of the food sector. According to PA 5.6 also seems to harbor lots figures provided by the European of future potential. The bio-based Bioplastics association, 94 per- nylon material is generated from cent of all globally-available arable starch and does not need to shy land are currently used for grazing, away from comparison with PA fodder and food production, with 6.6 or PA 6. On the contrary: PA just 0.02 percent used for growing 5.6 fibers such as TERRYL® from biomass for producing bioplas- Cathay Biotech, which can be used tics in 2018. However, there for sports apparel, underwear and is a surprising downside

14 no. 33 | may 2020 in focus //

These are very difficult, or even Renewable impossible, to recycle and – due to raw materials their low tear-resistance – are not suitable as packaging for very long. And, as waste, they also increase the time and effort required for sorting. Their disposal therefore still I) Bio-based II) Bio-based, polymers biodegradable poses several questions regard- polymers ing integration into a meaningful 'Drop-in' polymers closed-loop recycling system. However, progress is ongoing and bioplastics – whether bio-based Non- Biode­ or biodegradable – offer sufficient biode­ gradable gradable potential to also be a successful alternative to conventional plastics

in the future. » (tho) Conventional III) Fossil-based, polymers biodegradable polymers

The bio-based polymer fiber Sorona® by DuPont is deployed, among other things, in apparel Fossil raw textiles. materials

Bioplastics: three material types

Bioplastics can be split into three subgroups according to European Bioplastics: ƒ Bio-based, non-biodegradable plastics such as bio-based PE, PP and PET (‘drop-ins’) and industrial polymers such as PTT and TPC-ET; ƒ Plastics that are bio-based and biode­ gradable such as PLA, PHA and PBS; ƒ Plastics that are fossil-based and bio­ degradable such as PBAT.

no. 33 | may 2020 15 // in focus Plastic waste is endangering the seas Islands destroying paradise

ive huge waste vortexes percent of plastic waste flow into the have formed in the world’s sea via rivers, with ten rivers consid- oceans, the largest of ered the primary sources of these F which is located in the discharges, mainly in Asian coun- North Pacific between California tries. Another cause is also the (ille- and Hawaii and, according to gal) disposal of waste from ships out estimates, could meanwhile be the at sea. According to a study by the size of Europe. What is visible on British Eunomia Research & Consult- the surface of the sea is merely the ing consultancy, drink bottles and tip of the iceberg. More than 70 packaging make up the lion’s share percent of the waste sinks to the of this waste, followed by fishing ocean floor, with a further 15 per- nets and microplastic particles. The cent reaching the coast, according latter make up a 7.7-percent share to a United Nations Environmental of this waste, coming – for exam- Program (UNEP) ple – from binding What study. More than 70 and filling agents solutions The consequences used in the cosmet- relate to of this environmen- percent of the ics and personal the textile tal pollution are waste sinks to care products, tire sector? quite staggering. abrasion, industrial Since the 1980s, Plastic can survive the ocean floor, pellets and wash- political solutions for centuries in with a further 15 ing residues from for the problem the ocean. During percent reaching clothing, which as a whole have this time, it slowly predominantly focused predomi- breaks down and the coast. end up in the sea nantly on regulating can release toxic via waste water. the future discharge of additives into the environment. Because even well-equipped waste plastics into the oceans. Ultimately, people are also impacted water treatment plants in industrial- Since the public has been by these when – at the end of the ized countries are not yet able to aware of the topic, ever-more food chain – they consume seafood filter out these particles, which are initiatives, organizations and contaminated with residues or tox- less than five millimeters in diameter. businesses are searching for ways ins released by plastic products. Conversely, textiles make up 20 to avoid waste, to remove it from our percent of microplastics, although waters or to recycle it. Here, there Where does this plastic in the they are only responsible for 1.5 are a rising number of projects of oceans come from? percent of the plastic waste in our the most diverse kind and scale that According to studies, around 80 oceans. focus on textile topics:

16 no. 33 | may 2020 in focus // Plastic waste is endangering the seas We are forever reading about the 150 million tons of waste that are currently polluting our oceans. It is anticipated that between eight and twelve million tons will join these annually by 2050, at which time there would be more waste in the oceans than fish. Although synthetic textiles only make a small contribution towards this environmental pollution, Islands destroying the textile industry can however help create solutions for tackling the waste issue, as evidenced paradise by ever-more projects.

ƒ Adidas is co-founder and part- forged global contacts in order to ner of ‘Parley for the Oceans’, a promote its local solution. global cooperation network that aims to raise awareness for the ƒ Ecoalf has launched its ‘ protection and conservation of the the Oceans’ (UTO) campaign, oceans. Among other things, the aimed at cleaning up our oceans. sports goods manufacturer has set To this end, the Spanish fashion itself the objective of no longer us- company is cooperating with ing plastic bags or plastic particles fishermen and divers in Spain and in personal care products, prevent- Thailand, removing usable PET ing the discharge of plastic into material from the waste that has the oceans, reusing plastic waste been caught in the trawl nets, found on beaches and coasts which it then recycled into clothing. and to reutilize recycled plastics to ƒ An alliance produce sports ƒ In view of the of important apparel and Ever-more gigantic islands of European indus- shoes. waste, such pro- try associations, initiatives, jects are undoubt- including the Euro- ƒ Back in 2014, organizations edly just a ‘drop in pean Apparel and Textile the Dutch fashion the ocean’ of the Confederation (EURATEX) brand G-Star and businesses overall problem. and representatives of the launched a are searching for However, they can sports goods industry, such jeans collection ways to avoid possibly create a as the European Outdoor Group in collabora- greater sense of (EOG) and the Federation of the tion with Bionic waste, to remove responsibility and European Sporting Goods Industry Yarn, which were it from our waters help prevent a for- (FESI), is looking for valid meas- partly made from mer paradise suf- urement methods for detecting recycled plastic or to recycle it. focating in plastic microplastics in water and for waste from the waste: our oceans. solutions to prevent the release of sea. » (tho) such particles when washing syn- thetic textiles. Against this back- ƒ Bureo transforms old fishing nets ground, German alliance project into new products such as skate- ‘Textile Mission’ places a particular boards. Here, the US company is spotlight on the situation in waste collaborating directly with fisheries water treatment plants. in South America, but has also

no. 33 | may 2020 17 // in focus

Ever more companies are manufacturing textiles from single-use products Recycling: engine for

success Since 1993, leading recycling pioneer Patagonia has been producing apparel from PET bottles, waste and old clothes.

The German Huesker Group has introduced the world’s first geogrids made from 100% recycled PET bottles for deployment in road building. Each kilogram of recycled yarn cuts 4.3 kg of CO2 emissions, which corresponds to a 33-km car journey.

By , of used textiles can be 2024 recycled. Globally, only Adidas is 20% of clothing waste planning to exclusively is collected for or use recycled polyester recycling, leaving 80% for for all its shoes and landfill or incineration. apparel. The Estonian start- Danish fashion company Know­ up Gelatex ledgeCotton Apparel plans to pro- Technologies cess 5.5 million recycled creates an alternative for PET bottles by 2025, creating leather from gelatin one jacket out of 25 PET bottles. and received the Green Alley Award in 2019.

18 no. 33 | may 2020 in focus //

Ever more companies are manufacturing textiles from single-use products

Fashion label Sundried, owned by triath- lete Daniel Puddick, makes sports bras using 100% recycled materials, processing used cof- fee filters and PET bottles to do so.

The Swedish manufacturer Fjällräven recycles plastic bottles to make backpacks, saving water, energy and chemicals by deploying an ecological technology during . 52,000 pairs of shoes end up in the world’s first industrial recycling system every day. Soex Recycling Germany processes these into around two tons of recycled material daily, which in turn can be used to produce shoe (inner) soles, flooring, floor and judo mats.

no. 33 | may 2020 19 // in focus

Global coalition for more sustainability in the textile business Teaming up to make all fashion good

‘Fashion for Good’ was established at the beginning of 2017 with an initial grant of the Laudes Foundation (formerly C&A foundation) with the aim to scale sustainable innovations in the fashion industry. Its Innovation Platform brings together start ups and brands in an industry-wide collaboration. ‘Fibers & Filaments’ talked to Dr Ashley Holding at ‘Fashion for Good’ about trends and challenges in the field of textile recycling and circular economy.

An Ellen Mc Arthur Founda- fibers to create high quality gar- tion study on textile recycling, ments. This is only done on a very which is predominantly based small scale. There is also the option on 2015 figures, states that to use waste cotton as a feedstock just one percent of apparel for fiber (Viscose or Lyocell) manufactured worldwide was production, however, this also in- recycled into new fibers des- cludes only a small amount of waste tined for the . cotton feedstock. We still have a Have you noticed any signifi- long way to go before we shift the cant increase during the past needle on the recycling of post- few years? consumer garments into new One thing that is quite difficult to do garments again. is track the exact end of use path- way for all garments in the supply How would you describe the chain, so accurate data in general is ideal closed-loop recycling quite difficult to come by. This is an system for textiles? How does issue for the whole industry. your C2C (cradle-to-cradle) guide come into play? There are no current technologies In the ideal system, garments would which operate at scale for the be designed from the outset for re- recycling of polyester (PET) fibers cycling. Mono-materials – garments to fibers. Most recycled polyester made entirely out of one material – (rPET) fibers are made from PET should be preferred. This ties into bottle waste, and the waste stream the C2C guidelines around designing often has to be fairly clean and products with their whole lifecycle contaminant-free in order for this. in mind for inclusion in technical or biological cycles. In most cases, Cotton can be recycled mechanically for current materials we should into new yarns, but this results in a focus on the former – capturing the shorter fiber length and much lower most value out of the materials we quality yarn, which often has to be produce by recycling them into new mixed with virgin cotton or other products again.

20 no. 33 | may 2020 in focus //

The other missing link here is the recycling technologies themselves – in reality, only chemical recycling methods have the ability to close the loop on textiles, most of which are not yet operating at large-scale capacity, as some are just moving out of the lab. Finally, the collec- tion and sorting infrastructure is just not in place like it is for packaging waste. Once recycling technologies are scaled in order to take these materials, the business case for waste collectors will be better.

What would the textile indus- try have to change to bring about significant improve- ments to textile recycling? Brand off-take agreements with innovators are important for helping innovations in recycling to scale – it signals to investors that there is a demand for the product and de- creases the risk factor of collaborat- ing on nascent technologies.

Brands should be specifically tar- geting their public commitments at recycled polyester specifically from post-consumer garment waste, otherwise they will continue to no. 33 | may 2020 21 // in focus

source rPET fibers from bottles, “I can perhaps see which doesn’t support the wider market for rPET from textiles. Ad- a role of techno­ logy­­ ditionally, support of innovative re- providers making cycling companies through financ- ing, co-development projects and testing and piloting involvement in multi-stakeholder facilities for their consortiums is a great approach. machinery more The latter is something that Fashion for Good is hoping to play a role in accessible to early bringing our brand partners around stage companies the table to align and synergize our efforts to identify and scale the best looking to scale up innovations with all the relevant their processes.” value chain stakeholders on board. Dr. Ashley Holding, Innovation Manager at Do certain things need to Fashion for Good also change at the begin- ning of the value chain when manufacturing the fibers? What could the manufactur- ers of machines for producing manmade fibers do to support textile recycling? I don’t believe much needs to financing for building demonstration change at the beginning of the systems and trying to secure agree- value chain in terms of technology. ments with brands for off-take of I can perhaps see a role of technol- their materials in the future. ogy providers making testing and piloting facilities for their machinery We have supported companies more accessible to early-stage such as Ambercycle, Worn Again, companies looking to scale up their Tyton Biosciences and Infinited processes – some might not have Fibre Company in our Scaling Pro- the expertise in filament or pellet gramme at Fashion for Good and extrusion if their focus in the past will be shortly launching a working has been on the development of group with our brand partners to a chemical process for outputting further accelerate the adoption of commodity, TPA (terephthalic acid), technologies in this space. » (bey) for example.

Do pioneering technologies for closed-loop recycling of clothing made from blended fabrics that could also be implemented on a large scale already exist? Most innovations that target blended textiles are still at a pilot stage – they have smaller-scale pilot reactors and are optimizing their processes on a large scale for the first time. Many may be seeking

22 no. 33 | may 2020 in focus //

Dr. Ashley Holding is Innovation Manager at Fashion for Good, the global platform for collaborative innovation in the fashion industry. Ashley brings his technical ex- pertise to focus on plastics and chemical recycling. Ashley joined Fashion for Good from Worn Again Technologies, a Fashion for Good innovator, developing an innovative new technology for recycling used textiles. Prior to this, he pursued his PhD in Organic Chemistry from the Uni­versity of Helsinki, where he researched new methods of making cellulose materials.

Fashion for Good is the global initiative that is here to make all fashion good. It’s a global plat- form for innovation, made possible through collaboration and commu- nity. With an open invitation to the entire apparel industry, it convenes brands, producers, retailers, suppli- ers, non-profit organizations, innova- tors and funders united in their shared ambition.

Based in the organisation's head- quarters in Amsterdam, the global Fashion for Good Accelerator and Scaling Programmes gives promis- ing start-up innovators the expertise and access to mentoring and fund- ing they need in order to grow. www.fashionforgood.com no. 33 | may 2020 23 // on the markets

Staple fiber plant is set to help a sustainable leader take global recycling to the next level Gama Recycle goes even greener with Oerlikon Neumag

Business growth and environmentalism rarely go hand in hand. For some, the two ideas are diametrically opposed, forcing companies to take an either- or approach. One of the global recycling pioneers Gama Recycle, however, has spent the last two decades spinning other people’s waste material into a new kind of gold – regenerated yarns and fibers. Fibers & Filaments had the opportunity to discuss with Zafer Kaplan, founder of Gama Recycle, the current state-of-the-art in recycling and catch a glimpse of how the company is planning to ramp up production with an upcoming stable fiber plant from Oerlikon Neumag.

s one of the largest tal issues. A lot of the cutting waste producers of regener- from the garment or textile industry ated yarn and fibers, you was simply thrown away as trash A both recycle textiles and or sent to be incinerated. It was not use R-PET bottle flakes in produc- valuable for them to actually take tion. How did this develop, and care of these leftover materials. why did you commit yourself to recycling? As a result, we developed some ideas to turn these ‘unusable’ We have been in business since materials into regenerated fiber and 1997. From the very beginning, yarn for several industrial use cases. we produced recycled items. We We already have 18 patents for gained a reputation for recycling recycled products, machines, and textiles, as well as some plas- equipment, with 10 more currently tics, so five years ago we even under review. Today, most garment changed our name to Gama manufacturers have started to sort Recycle. To be honest, it was and sell their leftover cutting materi- both environmentally and finan- als, instead of simply throwing them cially relevant at the time. There into the garbage. was a huge amount of plastic and textiles waiting to be reused. This is a huge improvement, because One of the most complicated there were also only a few machine aspects, though, was actually manufacturers on the market when collecting all the materials. we started recycling textiles, and most of the time we had to convert What special considerations or modify our machines to make it are required to produce re- suitable for recycling processes. generated yarns and fibers? Today, a lot of companies are focus- In the beginning, producing regen- ing on recycling machines, and this erated fibers and yarns was not a has helped encourage a lot of growth high priority for most people. Most in the whole industry as well. countries and companies were not particularly sensitive to environmen- What do you recycle, and which polymers are these materials made of? Zafer Kaplan, founder of Gama Recycle, has been establishing sustainable processes for We recycle pre-consumer cutting or more than twenty years. industrial waste as well as post-

24 no. 33 | may 2020 on the markets //

Staple fiber plant is set to help a sustainable leader take global recycling to the next level Gama Recycle goes even greener with Oerlikon Neumag

With a staple fiber plant from Oerlikon Neumag, Gama is able to control the whole production process in a very efficient way.

consumer garments, PET bottles, PET trays, and other PET-based packaging materials or consumer products. We also have several pat- ents for recycling previously used garments into recycled cotton and polyester fibers.

In what condition do you pur- chase your raw materials, and which steps of the process do The preparation of recycling or lyocell. We sell it as a fabric you handle internally? materials is a bit more com- which is created with recycling pro- Sourcing is the most crucial and plex. It seems that producing cesses. We even offer to buy cut- complicated part of our work. We yarn and fiber from recycled ting waste from our customers, as purchase waste (our raw materials) materials is really profitable well as post-consumer garments. from all over the world. We have compared to virgin material. That is how we take sustainability several standards for raw materials, Or was your decision motivat- into consideration. We believe this but unfortunately sometimes this ed more by idealism? will help other people to follow suit. does not match up with the specifi- Yes, it is more profitable in most of cation of what you actually buy. cases – but also riskier and more What are your goals for the complicated as well. You need a next three to five years? And You will also use a staple fiber lot of know-how and experience, what role does the Oerlikon plant from Oerlikon Neumag in good machinery and equipment; Neumag plant play in your your production. What makes otherwise, it will be a huge loss. overall approach? this plant technology so inter- While we do run a business, we are We will work up to a total of 300 esting for your process? of course proud to do our part for tons of PET flake capacity per day, Recycled fibers have huge market sustainability and the environment which will allow us, on a daily basis, potential. End-users are looking for by extending natural resources for to make 200 tons of recycled poly- environmentally friendly products, future generations. ester fibers and 100 tons of PET but they won’t compromise on the chips for filament yarn and bottle- quality of the products they buy. For example, we have developed to-bottle (food-grade) applications. This is why we prefer to use the a new patented fiber called This is a great opportunity to have Neumag fiber line. We are able to CUPROCEL that is made of rPET the Neumag line. With its impressive control the whole process in a very polymer. Its touch, drape, stretch, technology and capability, we will efficient way, with a consistently recovery, etc., is not comparable to be able to achieve our goals more high quality of fiber as well as less any other synthetic fiber. It is almost easily. » (wca) production waste. like cellulosic fibers such as modal

no. 33 | may 2020 25 // on the markets

Domotex 2020 Carpet yarn solutions from 0.5 to 30 dpf

Market leader Oerlikon ollowing the trend for multicolored carpets, BCF Neumag has its finger S8 sets new standards firmly on the pulse F in regards to color sepa- of their customers ration. The plant, launched as a with the new Color tricolor solution at last year’s ITMA Pop Compacting unit in Barcelona, makes anything pos- sible – from mélange to strongly (CPC-T) for the BCF S8 separated. It promises carpet yarn carpet yarn plant, which producers even more flexible color is now available for the mixing variants for product differen- Polyamide 6 process. tiation. The core component in this The new solution, which process, the Color Pop Compact- titers from 0.5 dpf and high filament ing unit (CPC-T), offers more than counts: puffy, soft polyester filament was on show between 200,000 different color shades from yarns with BCF-similiar properties January 10 and three colors. The innovation, which are produced on the basis of a 13, 2020 at the has been filed for patent, is avail- POY and texturing process. Core Domotex 2020 in able for polypropylene and polyester components of the processes are Hanover, attracted great polymers as well as for the polyam- the POY take-up unit WINGS HD as ide 6 process. well as the new texturing machine interest from many trade eAFK Big-V. visitors. Polyester, recycling polyester and fine titers are on trend Retrofitting business and During numerous conversations original parts in strong demand with customers, Martin Rademacher, The orders completed in the Head of Sales Oerlikon Neumag, customer service area during the observed a noticeable trend for Domotex show the importance of polyester in the carpet industry core and micro components for a even outside the USA. Sustain- stable spinning process. “All in all, able solutions are equally sought we have been able to secure origi- after: “Our customers increasingly nal parts, service and modernisation demand plants that can process orders in the six-digit euro range,” recycled polyester,” explains Martin says Niels Herrmann, Director for Rademacher. Service Sales at Oerlikon Neumag, with pleasure. “Our customers are The Manmade Fibers segment very quality conscious. They know presented an additional solution by that high-quality yarn and efficient

The BCF S8 sets new Oerlikon Barmag for polyester appli- production depend on the opti- standards in regards cations that need fine single filament mum condition of the system. Our to color separation. services and training offerings, as well as custom-fit original parts and individual upgrades, help to achieve optimum production conditions.” Sales successes could also be celebrated in the plant business: the market leader in the area of carpet yarn and filament plants secured five orders for BCF and DTY plants. » (bey)

26 no. 33 | may 2020 on the markets //

First wiping robot successfully commissioned in India Automated wiping reduces yarn breaks

Following its installation at several major yarn manufacturers in China, the first wiping robot has now been operating in India since the end of 2019. As already the case with our Chinese clients, the performance of the Oerlikon Barmag solution there demonstrates the same properties: an even, high- quality wiping process providing considerably reduced yarn break rates and higher full package rates. Regular wiping (cleaning) of the spin packs is important for process stability and yarn quality.

he performance data at the Indian yarn manufacturer was collated and evalu- T ated over a period of three months. The results revealed that the yarn break rate has – regardless of the product – fallen by almost 30%. The early run time breaks have decreased by 10% and string-up breaks by 40%. Consequently, full package rates have risen by 3%, while waste rates have fallen by 0.2%. “Yarn breaks are always an issue; they have a direct impact on the production figures. This is where the wiping robot reveals its added value”, comments Stephan Faulstich, Technology Manager POY. The system automatically and autono- All wiping positions, mously controls the individual positions in accordance with the scheduled cycles and times can wiping cycles. In addition to the scheduled wiping processes, there are also be saved in the wiping robot’s management events that cannot be planned or that are not immediately visible. Here, system. The robot the wiping robot – as a result of its management functionalities – is able accesses the saved to identify issues such as yarn breaks or parallel wiping processes and to wiping intervals in independently offer solutions. The same also applies to manual requests: if an automated and safety-relevant another action is simultaneously required here, the system identifies this and manner. offers solutions.

The wiping robot operates in a cross-line manner. In contrast to manual wiping, the cleaning quality remains constant around the clock, consider- ably reducing the impact of the wiping on both the spinning plant process stability and on the yarn data of the spun yarn. And production times can be increased between two cleaning cycles as well: whereas repeated wiping is required after 48 hours in the case of manual wiping, utilizing the robot extends the interval between two wiping processes to up to 60 hours. The considerable increase in the spinning process efficiency achieved by the wiping robot also has a positive impact on margins. To this end, one customer deploying the wiping robot was able to reduce its production costs for the same yarn by more than 3%. » (bey) no. 33 | may 2020 27 // on the markets

Industry 4.0 From concept to reality Industry 4.0 – a buzzword that has been accompanying us for several years now. We asked our readers: What does industry 4.0 mean to you? In what way has digitalization already influenced your business environment? What digitalization solutions do you expect from machine builders like Oerlikon Manmade Fibers?

For us, Industry 4.0 means we are able to further Industry 4.0 is the age of sys- optimize and dynamically monitor our produc- tems automation and intelligent tion sequences and processes both in our POY information systems. Intelligent “ production facilities and our DTY processing “ machines are replacing physi- systems – across the entire value chain, from the raw cal work. The factory operates auto- material through to the packaged, finished end product, matically; this increases manufacturing practically by means of digital value-added. It is particu- efficiency, minimizes error rates and larly important to us that we can better fulfill the require- relieves the burden on our employees. ments of our customers by means of order manage- Fundamentally, we have achieved the ment data analysis and digitalization. Here, we not only degree of automation necessary for our require our processes to be digitalized, we above all production. However, it should in future also need to process the considerable volume of data in be possible to automate and monitor an intelligent manner. Furthermore, we expect that the every single step within the production digital factory will dynamically monitor – and hence con- process and to analyze the respective siderably reduce – production, HR and energy costs.” process data. The efficiency and data accuracy that come with Industry 4.0 solutions have a positive impact on product quality. To become even better here, we need data transparency for the entire value chain – from the melt all the way through to the packaged yarn. We have been able to adapt and optimize the processes in accordance with each respective market situation, hence increasing satisfaction among our clientèle.”

Chen Fei, Vice President, Fujian Jinjiang, China

Lv Bin, CIO, Zhejiang Hengyi, China

28 no. 33 | may 2020 on the markets //

Industry 4.0 From concept to reality

The future of the textile industry is being increas- We believe Industry 4.0 is about ingly determined by Industry 4.0. The intercon- the evolution from focusing nection of information technology and manufac- solely on tangible products to “ turing processes is on track. Industry 4.0 has “ now placing greater value on many dimensions and possible fields of application. In the intangibles surrounding the product three of them (smart services, operations and factory), or provided by the product. Products key solutions are provided by the machinery industry. are now being tasked with solving an The other ones – from smart textile products, marketing array of complex problems or mak- and sales, employees through to strategy and organiza- ing life easier/better, etc. An important tion – are specific know-how issues for the textile mills. factor driving this evolution is the new With regard to business models for the textile industry, consumer – who now has more time the speed factory project of a well-known manufacturer to experience the products, research of sports articles is particularly challenging. It shows the various product options more us where the path is leading: fast + flexible produc- easily and explore the diversification tion up to batch sizes of 1. Industry 4.0 is paving the of products. Any entity that requires way towards individualized mass production. However, intensive labor is going to be disrupted every sector and every company must develop its own by digital and automation solutions. strategy. How do you introduce Industry 4.0 within a Digital solutions can handle intricate company? To start with, Industry 4.0 can be internal or product portfolios, sophisticated logis- external in its orientation – and will be both in the long tics and complex supply chains, while term. Internal orientation focuses on the company’s simultaneously keeping inventories low own production process (including suppliers) and and manufacturing efficiencies high. external orientation encompasses Automation can reliably improve repeti- predominantly the relationships with tive activities and/or dangerous tasks. customers.” We expect machine builders to provide systems and equipment in which digi- talization solutions are fundamentally Thomas Waldmann, Managing Director, part of the underlying infrastructure VDMA Textile Machinery, Germany of the ecosystem rather than optional add-ons.”

Edmir Silva, Ph.D., Director, Global Innovation Unifi Manufacturing, Inc., USA

no. 33 | may 2020 29 // on the markets

Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment sets a trend with three Customer Days in India Technology transfer that is creating waves

The Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment has been informing its Indian customers within the context of a technology symposium held in Daman/ Silvassa for more than ten years now. Numerous Indian manmade fiber producers have settled in this region to the north of Mumbai.

nce again, 450 man- The Manmade Fibers segment With the topic of made fiber industry is able to offer the entire process ‘recycling’, Jochen experts accepted the chain – from the melt to the fin- Adler looked to the invitation to attend ished, textured yarn or the fib- future of potential O new materials for the and inform themselves of the lat- ers and including the necessary textile industry. est product and services portfolio semi- and fully-automated logistics developments this year. For the third processes – from a single source. time in succession, Oerlikon also This is of interest above all for po- entered into dialog with the next tential new customers and investors generation of managers at major in West Bengal and neighboring Indian polyester and nylon manufac- Bangladesh, as some do not yet turers in a separate event hosted in have decades of expertise in manu- Mumbai beforehand. facturing manmade fibers.

The technology symposium was Clean Technology. again held – for the very first time – Smart Factory. just a few days later and in a slightly The focus was on the latest product the new 24-end winding concept modified form in Kolkata in West and service developments from the makes the efficient production of Bengal. This is a potential second Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag FDY PA6 yarns a reality. Extending future key location for manufactur- and Oerlikon Nonwoven brands. the polyamide yarn production to ing manmade fibers in India accord- With their ‘Clean Technology. Smart 24 ends with DIO and WINGS FDY ing to plans revealed by the Indian Factory.’ motto, the engineers pays yarn producers dividends, government. In a target group- from Germany presented selected particularly in terms of investment appropriate manner, the discussions machines and systems specifically expenditure (CAPEX) and operat- focused above all on the transfer of designed for the Indian market, ing expenditure (OPEX): significant technologies for manufacturing along with the associated services. savings with regards to energy, foot- various polymer products. print and – due to the more ergo- Technological highlights for nomic design – string-up time are efficient production among the concept’s most convinc- Oerlikon Barmag’s eAFK Evo, ing arguments. introduced at ITMA 2019, promises superior speeds, greater productiv- The new BCF S8 production plat- ity and consistently high product form promises manufacturers of quality, along with lower energy carpet yarns greater performance consumption and simpler opera- within this fiercely-competitive mar- tion vis-à-vis comparable market ket: spinning speeds of up to 700 solutions. In particular, it is two of filaments and fine titers of up to 2.5 the machine concept’s features that dpf are standard. And the system excel with fantastic technology: the promises carpet yarn producers optimized, innovative EvoHeater even more flexible tricolor mixing and the EvoCooler, a completely variants for product differentia- newly-developed active cooling unit. tion. The core component in this Another focus was on WINGS FDY, process, the Color Pop Compact- Jürgen Vogel and Debabrata Ghosh opened the technology symposium in Daman, attended by that is now also available for the ing unit (CPC-T), offers more than around 450 people. polyamide 6 process. To this end, 200,000 different color shades from

30 no. 33 | may 2020 on the markets //

Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment sets a trend with three Customer Days in India Technology transfer that is creating waves

us to build bridges between data and material flows and between the virtual and real worlds.”

Complex large-scale systems from a single source A further information focus during the symposium was on the execu- Michael Roellke, tion of complex large-scale systems Volker Schmid, Jochen including supporting the financing of Adler and André Wis- senberg (from left to projects. The benefits of executing right) at the podium a factory project with Oerlikon are discussion together with obvious: Customers have a single Sudipto Mandal from contract partner who assumes the Indian subsidiary. the overall responsibility. A project manager acts as the primary con- three colors. The innovation, which questions concerning the future and tact partner. All core components has been filed for patent, is avail- relating to the topics of digitaliza- come from Oerlikon’s in-house able for polypropylene and polyester tion, automation and the closed- manufacturing facilities. Planning polymers as well as for the polyam- loop economy for the textile value reliability, high efficiency as a result ide 6 process. chain. of continual process optimization, an optimized CAPEX/OPEX ratio as Zero-waste philosophy Here, Jochen Adler stated: “We well as comprehensive handling of successfully implemented want to further optimize the ef- quality data – from the raw material With the new VacuFil® recycling ficiency of our systems and the all the way through to the individual range, Oerlikon Barmag is now quality of the end products with our package round off the scope of the offering – in cooperation with its digital solutions. True to our e-save turnkey project. » (aw) own subsidiary, BBEngineering – a philosophy, our mission is to protect zero-waste solution. Decades of the environment and to promote the experience in the areas of extru- sustainability of our solutions – in sion, filtration and spinning systems future undoubtedly also with a focus have been bundled into a novel on recycling. For this, we are de- core component – the vacuum filter. ploying the know-how of our large- It unites gentle large-scale filtration scale systems engineering team, and controlled intrinsic-viscosity including full-automation, transport, build-up for consistently outstand- packaging and warehouse logis- ing melt quality. tics and end-product automated quality control. We combine these Exciting podium discussion on with our process competencies and digitalization, automation and digital data handling using our Plant recycling Operation Center (POC) and our Within the context of a podium artificial intelligence-based software discussion, Jochen Adler, Chief solutions – known as ‘AIM’, our The ‘Sukalyann d’entourage’ dance troupe Technology Officer of the Manmade abbreviation for ‘Artificial Intelligence thrilled the audience with its ‘Amar Sonar Bangla’ Fibers segment, responded to Manufacturing’. In turn, this allows program.

no. 33 | may 2020 31 // innovation & technology

Engineering and systems for recycled polyester (rPET) Recycling solutions for all processes Whether for apparel, carpets or industrial textiles – yarn producers have not just recently started looking for manufacturing processes with which they can spin recycled bottles, textiles or other waste into new fibers and yarns.

he diversity of the systems Flake to yarn: and processes available tried-and-tested technology on the market makes it For its spinning and nonwoven T difficult to find the right processes, Oerlikon Manmade concepts and – more importantly – Fibers has an all-in-one solution concepts that work. Fundamentally, that transforms rPET bottle flakes we distinguish – when it comes to directly into yarn, fibers and non- mechanical recycling solutions – be- wovens. Depending on the quality tween flake to yarn, fibers and non- of the bottle flakes, the process has wovens and between flake to chips an upstream preparation unit that to yarn, fibers and nonwovens. is designed to harmonize fluctua- Furthermore, solutions for post-pro- tions in the raw material quality and duction and post-consumer waste to make the polymer usable for recycling are currently being devel- the spinning process. Contami- oped – very much in line with zero-waste VarioFil R+, intro­ concepts. duced in 2014, Product and engi- is successfully neering solutions for operating at the mechanical recycling sites of various from Oerlikon Man- Asian customers, made Fibers have been available for manufacturing many years now. To high-quality rPET this end, more than yarns. 500 tons of BCF yarns can be manufactured from rPET per day, for example. The first Oerlikon Neumag staple fiber system that is also able to process rPET was com- missioned as far back as 1994. The US filament yarn manufacturer Unifi has been producing its recycled yarn Repreve, which is in demand across the globe, on Oerlikon Barmag spinning and texturing systems since 2007. These are just a few examples of the diverse applications for recycling solutions available from the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

32 no. 33 | may 2020 innovation & technology //

Engineering and systems for recycled polyester (rPET) Recycling solutions for all processes

nants that cannot been separated VarioFil R+: compact system in the downstream process – such for flake to POY production as PVC, polyolefins, undesirable As the world’s very first POY , metals and other foreign bod- spinning system, the VarioFil R+ ies – are extensively removed, with compact spinning system utilizes minimal loss of material. recycled bottle flakes as the starting material for textile filament yarn. The The subsequent inline process system offers various technological dispenses with re-granulation and features such as a special extrusion hence renders interim storage in system for bottle flake materials, silos or big bags superfluous. Com- the very latest metering and mixing pared to offline solutions with re- technology for spin-dying and granulation, this has the advantage expanded 2-stage melt filtration. of considerable energy savings of This turnkey spinning system com- 0.4 kWh/kg. At an average price of prises between 4 and 16 spinning US$ 0.1 per kWh, this results in op- positions, each equipped with an erator savings of US$ 40 per ton of Oerlikon Barmag 10-end WINGS material. However, the requirements POY winder. And the system, for the raw material in the case of introduced in 2014, is successfully this process – especially in terms of operating at the sites of various evenness and material supply – are Asian customers, manufacturing even greater than for the offline solu- high-quality rPET yarns. tion. Predrying, decontamination and extrusion take place in a combina- The challenge of chemical tion comprising vacuum system and recycling single-screw extruder. It is not least in view of the omni- present climate debate that recy- Following extrusion, the melt is cling textiles and processing recy- carefully filtered before being spun. cled materials is increasingly moving The overall design has been devel- into the center of public interest. oped specifically for constant melt To this end, the topic is progres- pressure upstream to the spinning sively becoming an important issue pumps. The fine filtering guarantees for yarn producers as well. The that the spin packs are highly dura- Manmade Fibers segment has tak- ble and ensures constant, efficient en on this challenge and is already production. developing solutions that over- come the limitations of mechanical To maintain maximum flexibility for recycling to date and that can also the system, both rPET flakes and process contaminated raw materials granulates of various polymers and mixed textiles. » (bey, che) (PET, PP, PA) can be processed – independent of the process.

no. 33 | may 2020 33 // services & solutions

Digitalization in inventory management for spare parts Customers benefit from high availability The production facilities are the capital behind our customers’ success, now and in the future. Maintaining and improving the future-readiness of the plants and machines is the focus of Oerlikon Manmade Fibers’ Customer Service. Manuel Haid, Head of Global Service Fulfillment, explains how customers benefit from digitalization in Customer Services.

Mr. Haid, you are responsible for material we are providing an availability from stock of about planning, purchasing and logistics in Customer 75%. This means that, of all parts ordered by custom- Services. What are your key challenges? ers, we have about 75% of all order lines available in full The service business has some very unique challenges at our warehouse. For frequently-demanded parts, we – demand is very erratic and, as a result, very difficult are even achieving service levels in excess of 90%! On to predict. For example, if you are looking at the de- the other hand, we are now managing our purchasing mand for spare parts, you can never anticipate when a operations and inventories much more effectively. As machine at the customer site will break down or when a result, we have reduced costs, which helps us offset customers plan their machine maintenance. However, price increases for older parts. our goal is to provide the very highest service levels to customers and therefore stock spare parts that are This actually sounds like you have been available whenever customer demand arises. able to improve service for customers. This is absolutely right and was one of our Furthermore, we need to look at our company’s ef- primary objectives. We want our customers ficiency and the effective use of our to perceive us as the assets and resources. This means “We need to balance service supplier of choice – with we need to balance high service high service levels with high availability and short lead levels with the costs of inventory and times. This will then also provide the expense and effort of managing the costs of inventory our customers with some tangible operations. Finally, many custom- and the expense and benefits. If customers are ers are operating extremely old aware of which parts machines. The supply of these old effort of managing are stocked with high components is not only difficult, but operations.” service levels prices are also constantly rising due Manuel Haid, Head of Global Service Fulfillment by Oerlikon’s to the decreasing volumes. Manmade Fibers segment, customers can ei- That does indeed sound like a difficult task. ther reduce their own safety stock How are you approaching this challenge? or even eliminate their inventories We introduced software that supports us in this regard. entirely, as delivery times from We are using advanced forecasting algorithms to pre- our warehouses in Germany, dict future demand. These may include trends and pat- the US, China and India are terns, but also sales forecasts and the development of short. As a result, they can our installed base in certain regions. The forecasts then reduce their own working form the basis for our stocking and supply strategies. In capital impact. addition to this, the software helps us fulfil the demand in the most effective way. It proposes safety stock Net working capital is a hot topic for levels, ordering times and quantities. This balances the our customers. What do our customers need to costs of supplying parts and inventory costs. do to make the most out of the improvements made and reduce their net working capital? How do customers benefit from these efforts? Communication between our Service Sales and cus- On one hand, we have substantially increased service tomers is very important. There has to be transparency levels with regards to the availability of parts. To date, about what Oerlikon Manmade Fibers is stocking for

34 no. 33 | may 2020 services & solutions //

Digitalization in inventory management for spare parts Customers benefit from high availability

the customers and what not. For those parts on stock customers can adjust the replenishment lead times to only the delivery time from our warehouse to the plant in their ERP system. This will automatically reduce the safety stock proposed by their ERP system.

Customers also need to know about those parts that we do not stock due to their infrequent demand and for which longer lead times are unavoidable. However, when openly dis- cussing these, their lead times, criticality and stock-out costs, we can jointly develop solutions aimed at deciding whether and where to stock parts to ensure smooth operations.

These changes are probably not moving into nearly unchartered waters with regards to the only ones you have made. What supply chain and inventory optimization. We are cur- are the next steps? rently working with our software supplier on integrating The introduction of the software at all Customer multi-echelon inventory optimization (MEIO) concepts Services sites, in Germany, the US, China to further increase availability and inventory distribution. and India was only the first step on our journey towards Finally, we are analyzing how to utilize digitalization and achieving our vision of ‘acting as a high-performance data analytics advancements, such as artificial intel- network for superior customer service’. ligence (AI), to refine our demand forecasts.

The next step is to let our customer services network Apparently, there is much more to come in the ‘communicate’. More precisely, we are exchanging future. Mr. Haid, a final statement before we information about forecasts and possible network thank you for the interview? demand between our regional warehouses and the I guess it becomes obvious that ‘service fulfillment’ is central warehouses. This may result in the production of much more than just fulfilling orders. Service fulfillment components even before regional warehouses and its supply chain functions are real value-added order the components for restocking generators for customers. I am confident that our cus- purposes. Furthermore, we will exchange tomers know that only considering the price in purchas- information relating to lead time adjust- ing decisions is short-term thinking. When considering ments and stocking / not-stocking situa- the total cost of ownership – influenced by short lead tions in real time between the central and times, the availability of parts, supply risk, inventory regional warehouses. holding costs, etc. – the benefits of the value-added the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Customer Services network The final step is about letting the network ‘col- provides exceed those of low prices alone many times laborate and act as one’. This is where we are really over. » (wa)

no. 33 | may 2020 35 ID-No. 2090771