This Dessert Has a Story to Tell PAGE 7

, PLUS page 42 Talk Shop Talk Tips on great service on great Tips

page 47 , Reinvent to stay to stay Reinvent relevant MONEY & SENSE MONEY Restaurant Vets

page 38 Latinos FOOD PEOPLE FOOD It’s all about family, all about family, It’s

12 PAGE 7 Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success Business of Food—Inspiring Sharing the Love

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Varieties to bolster any menu, to Varieties

a story to tell This dessert This has LIFE OF LIFE

FOOD FANATICS LIFE OF PIE WINTER 2014 WINTER 2014

FOOD

COVER STORY As Nice As Pie 7 This classic dessert is an easy way to please guests across all segments.

Magic Mushrooms 12 Fungus—the kind customers can't get enough of—is growing on menus.

ADVERTISEMENT Have a Ball 16 Meatballs are so popular that menus dedicate a spot just to them. They can PAGE 112 even command a concept. One Nation Under Pizza 20 Pizza is loved by everyone, especially the bottom line. Find out if pizza is right for your operation.

FOOD PEOPLE The Other Comida 38 Meet the growing Latino dining demographic and find out what it's hungry for.

Talk Shop 42 Five operators weigh in on great service, the Holy Grail of hospitality. MAKE Road Trip to Baltimore 46 There's more to the Charm City than DOUGH WITH great crab cakes. PIZZA

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MONEY & SENSE 47 Restaurant Longevity Follow these steps to stay hot and popular.

From Chef to Consultant 52 There's more than one way to cook up your passion.

IN EVERY ISSUE

FOOD Trend Tracker MEATBALLS ARE ADVERTISEMENT 27 Get a jump start on food trends for the new year. ON A ROLL PAGE 16 FOOD PEOPLE PAGE 3 Feed the Staff 33 A stage nowadays means more than rubbing elbows with Michelin chefs. It’s about learning from peers and even landing a job.

MONEY & SENSE

Beyond the Plate 56 Avoid the most common design problems.

iHelp 58 Is it time to answer the call on mobile payment systems?

PR Machine 59 A former New York restaurant critic offers advice for handling a review.

Dear Food Fanatic 61 Don’t let business problems weigh you down. Get answers from the pros.

I'll Drink to That! 62 The appeal of bitter libations.

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ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 6 Eye on the Pie Watch out for this iconic dessert as it wins over a new generation of diners

The chocolate chess pie at Hoosier Mama Pie Company is also known as the brownie in a pie shell. If any one dessert embodies nostalgia, it’s pie. Burrowed into our collective consciousness, it completes the Thanksgiving meal and serves as roadside diner requisite, sitting under a glass dome on the counter as humble as can be. A new identity, though, is in the making. Pie has become the “it” dessert, joining the landscape of its trendy cupcake and doughnut cohorts. From chocolate to cherry to triple berry, these kings of crust grab diners with their fruitful seasonality, undeniable fillings and unexpected riffs from creative chefs. “Pie has been so overlooked and, in some ways, looked down upon,” says Alisa Huntsman, pastry chef at Loveless Cafe in Nashville, Tenn. “But with so many restaurants turning to artisanal and local ingredients, pie is one of the easiest ways to showcase the season. It’s one of the last old ‘new’ discoveries.”

Taking a Piece of the Pie With a mother known as the pie lady and a lifelong history of making them alongside her, it’s not surprising that the three sisters behind Washington, D.C.’s Pie Sisters would go into the dessert business. As the Georgetown neighborhood pie shop wraps its second year, the concept is outgrowing its space and can barely keep up with demand, says co-owner Erin Blakely, the middle sister. Get Hoosier Mama's recipe for passion fruit meringue pie and other exclusives at FoodFanatics.com 8 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 9 The sisters, however, had to first overcome A Regional Slice MAKING A pie’s bad rap as a “just OK” grocery store dessert. With long domestic availability and good quality from SIGNATURE SLICE Fat Elvis Pie “People didn’t appreciate the greatness of a fresh opposite hemispheres, apples make pie a year-round Over the last several years, Owner Paula Haney Scan to get the recipe Hoosier Mama Pie Company, Chicago baked pie,” Blakely says. staple. Trend-forward ingredients and seasonal pie places have been opening for salted caramel But with bold flavors, such as s’mores (layers of counterparts like pears and cranberries keep this across the country. Here are a apple pie. toasted meringue and ganache in a graham cracker classic continuously relevant. But like so many foods, few unique pies worth copying. 1 cup milk, divided use Visit us on Facebook at ½ cup heavy cream crust), their pies are enjoying upper-crust status. pie is a regional pursuit—with legions of loyalists. 1½ tablespoons cornstarch The pie sisters are planning more locations and “In the South, pie is the thing and always has facebook.com/usfoodfanatics to share your favorites. 1 large egg working on filling requests from restaurants that been,” Huntsman says. That doesn’t mean the ¼ cup sugar want to sell their pies. decidedly Southern chess pie is always made with Go over the top: Chicago’s 2½ ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped Getting love from restaurants typically the traditional combination of butter, eggs, cream Hoosier Mama Pie Company 2½ ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped comes on the heels of pie shop success. The and flour. A true Southern chess pie, she says, also serves a pie rich enough for 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, key is ensuring consistency and watching food has white cornmeal and vinegar. Her variations The King with the Fat Elvis: divided use chocolate, peanut butter and 1 teaspoon vanilla paste, divided use costs, which run 25 to 30 percent at Pie Sisters, include the addition of honey or lemon. 2 pinches kosher salt, divided use depending on the ingredients. Shaker lemon pie has its roots in Ohio, but bananas in a graham cracker- peanut-pretzel crust. ½ cup cream cheese Four & Twenty Blackbirds in Brooklyn, N.Y., Phoebe Lawless’ version at her bakery, Scratch, in 6 tablespoons smooth peanut butter has a storefront for its salty honey custard pie Durham, N.C., has plenty of fans. She macerates Pie-versify: The Pie Shop 1 egg yolk, pasteurized and chocolate derby pie with mint, bourbon and lemons with sugar, eggs and butter but also in Atlanta serves seven ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sweetened chocolate, but its pies can be found around town switches out conventional citrus for Meyer lemons categories of pie, from custard condensed milk 2 medium bananas, cut into 1-inch discs at several restaurants, including Untitled at the when they’re in season. (fresh-roasted pumpkin pie) 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon orange juice Whitney Museum of American Art. and pantry (funeral pie) to chiffon (grasshopper). 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice Frank Bonanno, who owns multiple concepts Custom Comfort 1 pie shell, recipe follows in Denver, opened Wednesday’s Pie a few years Crust, filling or topper, the opportunities to When in doubt, add booze: ½ cup banana chips ago at the entrance of his two other concepts, customize are endless. Caramel sees the most Locals know to go for any ½ cup pretzels, small knot-shaped, broken Green Russell (a “chef-driven cocktail joint”) and renditions in apple pie. And bacon, which industry boozy pie on the menu at Russell’s Smokehouse. His pies are served at both wisdom still dictates goes with everything, serves Random Order Coffeehouse Bring ¾ cup milk and cream to a boil. In a deep heatproof bowl, mix remaining milk with cornstarch as a streusel topping for apple pie at the Pie Shop & Bakery in Portland, Ore. Its restaurants, as well as at Lou’s Food Bar, another to make a slurry, then whisk in egg and sugar. Slowly Bonanno outpost. in Atlanta. New Deal Coffee Cream (locally produced coffee liqueur, whisk in hot milk, combine and cook until thickened, “Pies can definitely be profitable, like most When winter sets in and seasonal fruit takes a whipped cream and espresso about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in desserts,” he says, adding that it’s all about break, demand grows for cream and custard pies— dust) makes sense because chocolates, 2 tablespoons butter, ¼ teaspoon vanilla balancing food and labor costs. especially chocolate and caramel. Random Order a full drink menu of signature paste and a pinch of salt. Cover with plastic wrap to Coffeehouse & Bakery in Portland, Ore., combines cocktails is also available. prevent film from forming on top; chill. Good Looks Will Get You Everywhere unsweetened and two organic dark chocolates for Beat together cream cheese and remaining butter Pie Sisters, Blakely says, is using pie’s good looks to a pastry cream filling topped with whipped cream (softened) until smooth and add peanut butter, egg get ahead. “We pride ourselves on our aesthetics and and shaved dark chocolate. Simple Things in Los yolk, condensed milk and remaining vanilla paste; cutouts,” she says. “When you have a great crust and Angeles has a loyal following for its salted caramel set aside. Toss bananas with orange and lemon delicious filling, its appearance can put it over the top.” pie and banoffee pie (banana and toffee). juice and drain. Cutie Pies NYC in Brooklyn, N.Y., is also carving “One of my most popular pies has been the out a niche based on eye appeal, thanks to surface Guinness-Baileys Irish cream pie, which layers stout- To compile, spoon chocolate pastry cream into shell, effects on the top crust, such as tiled leaves or petals. infused ganache inside a chocolate cookie crust, below making a well in the center. Layer the bananas in a single layer on top. Smooth on peanut butter filling As the top crust is rolled out, a star may be cut from a layer of Baileys pastry cream and then a drizzle of Butter is essential for and sprinkle remaining salt on top. Chill 20 minutes. the center of a Cutie Pie and surrounded by smaller Jameson caramel,” Cronin says. At service, press banana and pretzel pieces on the versions of the shape. Others feature swirls cut Bakers are also boosting crust appeal. Huntsman a perfect, flaky crust. outer edge of filling. Makes 8 servings. from the crust. Edges are also a platform for design, makes her own biscotti for the crust in her custard Sometimes we’ll also use showcasing distinct, uniform fluting. and cream pies. Biscotti is ideal, she says, for further To make 1 graham cracker, peanut and pretzel “I’ve tried to steal a bit of cupcakes’ thunder by customizing crusts with nuts and spices that a combination of flour crumb shell: Combine 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons graham cracker crumbs, ¾ cup roughly ground complement the filling. presenting an array of personal three-inch pies,” and almond flour, which pretzels, ¼ cup roughly ground salted peanuts, 2 owner Alice Cronin says. “Customers really enjoy the To ensure that all customers can indulge, today’s pie adds a subtle sweetness. tablespoons dark brown sugar, 2 tablespoons flour concept of a serving that’s just for them.” makers are also catering to vegans, offering a dairy- and pinch of kosher salt. Add 9 tablespoons melted —Frank Bonanno of Pie Sisters is also rocking the wedding circuit, as free crust using gluten-free flour, coconut or almond butter and rub into crumbs until mixture holds Wednesday’s Pie couples opt for assorted mini pies over traditional milk like at Cutie Pies NYC and Simple Things. together. Press into greased 9-inch pie tin and use cake. Cupcake-sized, par-baked dough serves as the “The idea of pie is as flexible as the mind of the chef,” second tin to mold into shape, distributing contents shell for fruit, cream or custard filling, topped with Cronin says. “It can be as fancy or straightforward as evenly. Bake in preheated 350F oven for 6 minutes.

n whimsical crust cutouts. any other dish, so they fit into almost any menu.” Adapted from “The Hoosier Mama Book of Pie” by Paula Haney (Midway 2013).

10 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 11

n Today, improved cultivation methods and a growing following and a growing cultivation methods improved Today, as the old-school as standard are now Enoki and shiitakes Geoff Rhyne, says limitless possibilities,” “Mushrooms have Mushrooms pop up more often in appetizers and side dishesside and in appetizers pop up more often Mushrooms are and shiitakes, maitakes with along mushrooms, Oyster “Mushrooms can be goodif they are used for food costs Richard Chef-owners Vedge, restaurant Philadelphia vegan At mushrooms No longer or fallback meat substitutes, bit players of array complementary to a diverse “Mushrooms are very have made once rare varieties of these spore-bearing fungus fruit made once rare varieties have widely available. thumb-shaped crinkly cloud ears, Elite chanterelles, button. also finding are and the smaller black trumpets trumpets royal mushrooms Chefs are high on lobster onto menus. their way as the Japanese (also known and the meaty hen-of-the-woods mushrooms has sprouted, A full spectrum of oyster maitake). and rose pink, gray fawn in shades of pale yellow, clusters with their hornlike beautiful sonic sculptures looking like highly coveted trompettes, Add cheesy-tasting fruiting bodies. morels and dried mushrooms—Italian porcinis (cepes to the to keep enough variety the repertoire, and there’s French)—to interested. everyone S.C. The Ordinary in Charleston, Lata’s chef de cuisine at Mike in a dish or be“They can complement and accentuate the flavors the main ingredient.” Twenty years ago, the mushrooms most most mushrooms the ago, years Twenty were the same commonly found in the walk-in the ubiquitous ones sold at the supermarket: criminis and tastier darker, white buttons; helter- stacked humongous portobellos driftwood, their broad caps mainly like skelter burgers. to be grilled as vegetarian destined The Mushroom Effect usually a mushroom. Eighty- a menu, there’s Where there’s feature dishes with mushrooms, one percent of all restaurants percent of fast and 63 including 98 percent of fine dining concepts research firm Datassential. according to market casuals, mushroomsOyster to Datassential. according than entrees, 150 percent of the bunch, increasing in use by love the most receive has in New York of Perilla Harold Dieterle year. from 2006 to last and mushroom carpaccio as an appetizer featured a king oyster mushrooms in his fingerling uses blue foot and Amish cheddar with bacon, garlic scapes and sour cream. pierogi starter Rooftop and Grillmarking their territory at Stars Restaurant where the trio comprises wood- S.C., Room in Charleston, and truffle vinaigrette. with feta grilled mushroom bruschetta become a signature item. is so popular that it’s This appetizer adding that the Stars Chef Nathan Thurston, says appropriately,” an above-average provides priced at $9.25 appetizer bruschetta profit. “They can range from $4 to $50 a pound, so chefs must sure they are considering the application.” make Pleasing Vegetarians for meat, a trend that’s long been a stand-in Mushrooms have beyond the portobello burger. evolved mushrooms sear whole maitake Jacoby Landau and Kate leek and smoked fritters and present them with celery root remoulade. Mushrooms also inspired their riff on the Northern using portobello carpaccio instead tonnato, veal Italian standard and coarsely pureed garbanzo beans in place of theof sliced veal canned tuna usually found in the dish. when especially in winter, superstars, become menu have devout Even unavailable. simply or pricey are vegetables other anmushrooms dolled up in up to are warming carnivores side dish or entree. appetizer, says. or grilled “When roasted Thurston popular flavors,” many the show.” they can easily steal properly, can writer, Robert Sietsema, a longtime New York-based many city’s found the be forat often foraging mushrooms markets. farmer’s By Robert Sietsema PRIMED TO BE A SOLO ACT OR STARRING INGREDIENT, INGREDIENT, OR STARRING ACT BE A SOLO PRIMED TO MUSHROOMS ARE PLENTIFUL FOR THE PICKING Into the

12 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 13 For more on THE MUSHROOM KINGDOM mushrooms, go to FOODFANATICS.COM Which mushrooms rule? It depends on the use and whether you’re after cultivated or wild varieties. Nearly all fresh mushrooms love a saute in butter or olive oil (with or without garlic or shallots) with splash of wine, madeira or other spirit and an 1) Royal Trumpet herb (thyme is a favorite). Raw is This thick mushroom on the rise, while the soaking is almost all stem; liquid for dry varieties adds body firm with a nutty to a dish. flavor, it’s known for a long shelf life. Some of the most popular mushroom finds: Wood-Grilled 2) Chanterelle Mushroom 1 Once available only through foragers, this Bruschetta 2 3 luxury mushroom is Chef Nathan Thurston now widely cultivated. Stars Restaurant Rooftop and Grill Room A favorite in French Charleston, S.C. cooking, it works its magic in any cuisine 2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar ADVERTISEMENT with a delicate flavor 1 teaspoon shallots, minced and striated orange 1 teaspoon parsley, minced appearance. ½ teaspoon sugar Pinch sea salt, plus extra as needed PAGE 15 3) Morel 2 tablespoons black truffle oil Perhaps the most 6 ounces olive oil, divided use luxurious (and 3 cups assorted mushrooms expensive) wild (oyster, shiitake, maitake) mushroom, it has a Black pepper, freshly cracked dark, elongated cap as needed that looks perforated. 8 slices multigrain bread, sliced ¼-inch thick 3 ounces goat feta 4) Lobster 2 cups winter greens (such as Its color and seafood- mustard and kale) 4 5 like aroma easily explain why this Combine vinegar, shallots, parsley, fungus that grows on sugar and sea salt. Whisk in truffle mushrooms is named oil and 2 ounces of olive oil; set after the crustacean. aside. Slice mushrooms into 1-inch It pairs particularly thick pieces. Toss with 1 tablespoon well with seafood or vinaigrette and season with salt and meat dishes. black pepper. Rest for 20 minutes.

Grill mushrooms on both sides until Bring the growing popularity of craft beer to the table with BREW CITY® premium fries, onion rings and 5) Maitake tender. Use 3 ounces olive oil to specialty appetizers. Made with craft-brewed American pale ale, BREW CITY® is the only brand with Also known as hen- brush bread slices and sprinkle with real beer in every bite, for flavor and crunch that pair with the uniquely crafted dishes on your menu. of-the-woods, this salt; grill. Toss greens in remaining cultivated variety ounce olive oil and salt and saute Find chef-inspired menu suggestions, explore the full product line and get promotion ideas at grows in flaky gray- until lightly wilted. brewcityusa.com/craft. and-white masses that can be cooked Top each bread slice with by lightly searing; it’s mushrooms, wilted greens and also said to aid the crumbled feta. Drizzle with remaining immune system. vinaigrette. Makes 4 servings.

For these meatball recipes, go to FOODFANATICS.COM NOT YOUR GRANDMA’S AT ONE TIME, MEATBALLS WERE TO SPAGHETTI AS PEANUT BUTTER TO JELLY: A PERFECT PAIR. These EDDIE MERLOT’S days, meatballs are going solo, grabbing MEATBALLS attention as a classic Italian-American staple alongside other global power balls made with Chefs bolster goat, chicken and lamb. In fact, meatballs have become popular enough to carry a menu section menus with ballsy and even an entire concept. A bonus: If you play your cards right, they can be a low- takes on a cost winner and a signature item that will draw customers. Here are some meaty classic attention-worthy finds to inspire your meatball dish or menu:

KEFI’S MEATBALLS

By Rachel Mount Hofstetter

16 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 17 The Jet-setting Meatball ($12) with currants, pine nuts and French assign different meat costs to various dishes Nearly every culture has its own take on the THE PERFECT BLEND sheep’s milk cheese (Ossau-Iraty) instead at Storefront Company so that pricier racks meatball, providing endless opportunities to It’s Personal We treat them of the classic Parmesan. “We treat them like of meat and New York strips can sell for more, introduce it as a classic or re-imagine it through Mexican restaurants treat guacamole—it’s the while the ground meat mixture in his meatballs a chef lens. like Mexican first dish people order to share, and they eat carries a food cost of about 25 percent. Greek: Meatballs allow Chef Michael Michael Psilakis grinds Kefi’s 30 percent beef and restaurants treat them while perusing the menu,” Executive “At the end of the day, if I’m utilizing and Psilakis to balance the cuisine of his heritage 30 percent pork in-house and shapes it with an ice Chef Bryan Moscatello says. selling all parts of the lamb, I’m doing well,” with consumer-friendly dishes at Kefi in New cream scoop. “You don’t want to mix it a lot or the guacamole—it’s the first Duck: The hot item at Japanese gastropub he says. “The meatballs help us do that so York. “I couldn’t call the dish the traditional fat becomes emulsified and changes the molecular dish people order to share, Miyabi 45th in Seattle is Chef Mutsuko Soma’s they’re a win.” n name tsoutsoukakia on the menu, but structure,” he says. duck meatball appetizer ($12). Soma grinds customers immediately identify meatballs,” he and they eat them while duck breasts with the fat and skin, adding Rachel Mount Hofstetter is the author of says. “It demystifies the Greek-ness of it.” Kefi’s perusing the menu. chicken breasts to boost the protein-to-fat “Cooking Up a Business” (December 2013, meze-size order of meatballs, served with a —Bryan Moscatello of Storefront Company ratio. Eggs, panko and cornstarch keep the Penguin). Her work has appeared in O, the kalamata olive and tomato sauce ($6.95), has 70% BEEF meatballs moist, while a salt-water poach Oprah Magazine, Reader’s Digest, Fitness come close to a signature item. creates a light texture. and others. Asian: Malaysian flavors inspired Chef Gregory Gourdet to create wagyu meatballs The Classic Keeps On Rolling with garam masala and palm sugar soy PORK 30% Grandma’s classics are still kicking, proven ($12) at Departure Restaurant + Lounge in by the wave of niche restaurants from New Portland, Ore. York (The Meatball Shop) to San Diego Lebanese: The classic Lebanese preparation, (Meatball Cucina) where meatballs are the kibbe, with lamb and bulgur wheat is served stars. But “classic” doesn’t have to mean rote with hummus and cucumber salad ($14) at or traditional, as shown by the six varieties Figue Mediterranean in La Quinta, Calif. Carla Pellegrino, formerly of the Meatball Spot, mixes offered at Meatball Spot in Las Vegas. Still, Spanish: Meatballs make for a perfect tapas- meat and textures: coarsely ground beef, medium grind the restaurant estimates that the $9.99 Italian Lamb Albóndigas Chef de Cuisine Clint Wangsnes sized dish at Al Lado in Denver, where Chef de veal and finely ground pork. “The fine grind of the pork classic (blend of beef, veal and pork) makes up means it can mix into the other two meats,” she says. Al Lado, Denver Cuisine Clint Wangsnes pairs bite-sized lamb 80 percent of the orders. meatballs with a tomato-based sauce, zucchini At Pizzeria Biga in Detroit, Chef Luciano 5 pounds ground lamb Chicken meatball slider with and goat cheese ($10). VEAL Del Signore’s customers often go for a side ¾ cup garlic, minced Parmesan, thyme and sauce, $2.50 ¼ cup thyme, chopped Swedish: IKEA may have put this Swedish of meatballs ($7.50) to accompany their 24th & Meatballs, Portland, Ore. classic on the U.S. map, but New York’s Smorgas BEEF slices. He braises the meatballs made with ¼ cup parsley, chopped ¼ cup mint, chopped Chef makes a fancier version with local 25% local grass-fed beef, fresh breadcrumbs, 50% Eggplant meatballs with 3 tablespoons salt heritage pork and grass-fed beef served with egg, parsley and cheese. “At my high-end spicy marinara, $4.99 2 tablespoons smoked paprika chive mashed potatoes, pickled red cabbage, restaurant, Bacco, we do duck meatballs, Brooklyn Meatball Company, 1 tablespoon black pepper gradd (brown) sauce and lingonberries ($22). lamb meatballs, anything new,” he says. “But Houston, Texas 1 teaspoon cayenne PORK 25% Pizzeria Biga is a casual neighborhood spot, 2 cups panko Lamb köfte (Turkish meatballs) with 1½ cup heavy cream Meat Your Match and beef is exactly what people love.” onions, parsley and spices, $7.95 Chefs aren’t just playing with spice and sauce Olive oil as needed Cafe Divan, Washington, D.C. 1 quart demi glace flavors—they’re also using the trusty meatball A Solid Cost Performer 5 quarts Cordero sauce, recipe follows to introduce hesitant customers to gamier There’s just as much variety in a meatball’s Salmon meatballs with pasta Grilled zucchini, as needed proteins beyond the stalwart beef. At Storefront Company, Bryan Moscatello uses the food cost as in its range of flavor possibilities. in red pepper cream sauce Goat cheese, as needed Goat: Goat meat is the primary protein in classic 80 percent lean-20 percent fat ratio with a The “meat” in meatballs is stretched with with bacon, peppers and the meatball appetizer ($13) at Nick’s Cove in medium grind. “To achieve that with lamb, I take all of ingredients such as eggs and bread, but without provolone, $7.05 Combine lamb, garlic, herbs, salt, smoked Slotted Spoon Meatball Eatery, Marshall, Calif. Chef Austin Perkins grinds the trimmings from one lamb, plus one of the bellies, a high percentage of low-cost ingredients, the paprika, black pepper and cayenne. Mix in panko Denver and then heavy cream. Use 1-ounce scoop for goat shoulder, mixing it with about 5 percent which are very fatty,” he says. result could be a bump up in food costs. meat to shape and finish into ball with hands. salt pork fat as a binding agent, along with eggs, Del Signore’s meatball food cost is more Meatballs and tomato with Braise in demi glace in 350F oven for 45 minutes; oil, Parmesan, carrot, celery and coriander. FAT than he’d like at Pizzeria Biga (higher end basil, Parmesan, ginger, soy strain. At service, warm desired portion with “They sell much better than I thought they of 30 percent), but it’s balanced by lower- sauce and gochujang (spicy Cordero sauce and serve in small cast-iron pot would—a lot of people are wary of goat,” 20% cost menu items. At the value- and volume- Korean condiment), $10 with grilled zucchini and goat cheese. Perkins says. “But this is an accessible way driven Kefi, low price points are offset Poppy Den, Las Vegas to try something different, and people order by a high number of covers, so Psilakis is Cordero sauce: Saute 2 cups small diced Albóndigas (classic Mexican onions, ½ cup thinly shaved garlic and 1 them again and again.” comfortable with a 25 percent to 28 percent 80% LEAN soup) with lamb and pork tablespoon arbol chiles until translucent. Add 4 Lamb: Nothing goes to waste at Chicago’s food cost. meatballs, tomato saffron broth, quarts crushed Italian tomatoes, 2 cups Catalane Storefront Company, where leftover lamb Working with whole animals can offer more chickpeas and mint, $10 olive brine and 2 cups olive oil and simmer 20 trimmings become Sicilian-inspired meatballs pricing flexibility. Moscatello says he can Mateo Tapas Bar, Durham, N.C. minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

18 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 19 PIZZA

NATIONBy Kate Bernot Diners are united in their devotion, so why aren’t you TOURISTS WILL DRIVE OUT OF THEIR WAY TO FIND IT. getting a slice OENOPHILES ASK FOR IT WITH of the pie? A PRICEY BOTTLE OF CABERNET. KIDS WILL DIG INTO IT, AND THEIR GRANDPARENTS WILL STEAL BITES, TOO. If you can make a palatable gluten-free version, you’ll find a loyal audience. And it’s among the highest profit margin dishes in the business. So, why isn’t pizza on every menu?

Coal-fueled brick oven pizza at Chicago’s Coalfire includes pesto (top), a classic margherita and a build-your-own pie with prosciutto and arugula (opposite page).

20 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 21 WISE GUYS Despite a simple combination of minimally restaurant is in the middle of Texas. We have Need toppings to turn heads? Check out manipulated ingredients, pizza has become extraordinarily conservative eaters out here,” these takes from the kingpins of pizza: intimidating. America beatifies its pizza idols: Chef Mary Stanley says. Chris Bianco, Thomas McNaughton, Nancy Still, when The Turtle Restaurant San Marzano Silverton. Diners worship at the marinara- introduced pizzas five years ago, the pies tomatoes, stained altar of Roberta’s, Frank Pepe’s and helped draw a cost-conscious clientele capers, olives, garlic, pecorino, whichever of New York Patsy’s is glorified that wouldn’t have come through the doors chili, $18 among its true believers. otherwise. “When we opened, the pizzas were Devotees will also fight to the finish over the best seller,” Stanley says. “People had Thomas which style is best: deep dish, New York, been price resistant to our other food, which McNaughton’s Neapolitan, cracker crust, East Coast Greek? is more labor intensive.” Flour + Water, Squares or wedges? That is, until customers started ordering more San Francisco Still, it doesn’t take a master pizzaiolo to off the menu, regarding pizza as an appetizer. make an honest, profitable and completely satisfying pie. Be realistic. Chefs across the country are making humble Not all kitchens are created equal. Brandon pizzas shine at trattorias, wine bars and Wolff, chef at the recently opened Tre Soldi farm-to-table bistros. Beneath the layers of trattoria and pizzeria in Chicago, advises mozzarella and hype, tossing a contemporary other chefs and owners to know their style of pizza is easy under the latest pizza regime. pizza and make sure their staff can execute a Ipswich clams, garlic, consistent pie. oregano, pecorino, Listen to demand. “We tried a dough [we didn’t end up using] Annual growth of pizza sales in America Parmigiano, $17 When Andrew Wilson took over Carneros that was extremely delicate and difficult to Bistro and Wine Bar in 2011, the Sonoma, produce consistently,” Wolff says. “We wanted Nancy Silverton’s Calif., kitchen wasn’t cooking for the locals, to make sure that with delivery, the dough Pizzeria Mozza, Los Angeles even though they made up 30 to 70 percent of would hold up and still be delicious.” the resort’s business, depending on the season. Operation and staff size also factor into prep, “The former chef was not paying much as a chef or lead baker can’t be responsible attention to the wood-fired oven, which to for making every pizza. “We might have six or 39.5% me is very wine country,” Wilson says. “They seven different people depending on the day had a couple of pizzas on the menu at the of the week, so we need to make sure that we Share of pizza sales by bar, but only because they were on the room have a type of dough that we can train people independent restaurants Roasted pork belly, Wisconsin cheddar, service menu.” to handle,” he says. arugula, sliced apples, $15 and pizzerias as opposed to Chris Bianco’s Pane Bianco, Phoenix Wilson spent a few nights listening to Tre Soldi owner Jack Weiss knows that regulars at the bar and repeatedly heard the consistently good pizza is not only a crowd chain operations same request: off-menu pizzas. “We started pleaser, but a moneymaker. “Pizza is really keeping a journal of the custom pies that the important to the food cost, just as pasta is,” pizza guys were baking for them, which were Weiss says. “I’d rather sell pizza than sell steaks popular and tasted really good,” he says. or fish. I don’t think we want to sellall pizza, Relying on guest input and the creativity but we feel that it’s really a profitable item.” of his cooks, new options made their way Pizza is really onto the menu. “I made a point of letting the Make fresh ingredients profitable. 120 important to food locals know how much they had to do with Pizza is a blank canvas with endless SECONDS cost...I don’t think we it,” Wilson says. “It got me in with the locals opportunities to push certain ingredients Cut into slivers with pretty quickly, which worked out well and we that customers might not otherwise order. want to sell all pizza, scissors, Quad City- sell more pizza.” Everything from local Dungeness crab to kale The time a pie spends in the “blazing hot” style pizza at Roots bolognese is fair game—and can come with a oven at Blaze Pizzeria, a fast growing but we feel it’s really in Chicago begins Use pizza as a low-cost introduction. premium price tag. with a crust made California-based chain a profitable item. with malt and ends Despite its local and seasonal focus, The Joel Wabeke of Terra GR, a casual, farm- —Jack Weiss of Tre Soldi with cheese on top of Turtle Restaurant in Brownwood, Texas, isn’t focused restaurant in Grand Rapids, Mich., ingredients. Its taco in the proper location to introduce foreign says it’s less expensive for his team to make pizza (opposite page) features sausage and

dishes or upsell premium ingredients. “Our sausages using whole animals and vegetable MCDONALD STEVEN BY cheese but is finished with lettuce, tomato and taco chips. 22 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 23 HEN-OF- THE-WOODS DOUGH toppings from locally grown produce. It’s MUSHROOMS $.45 also a quality that his clientele values. $.94 At Carneros Bistro, Wilson has found that customers are willing to pay an extra dollar for seasonal heirloom tomatoes on a 10% PIE UNIVERSITY Gluten-free margherita pizza. If making gluten-free 19% Looking to join dough is too time Less is more. the pizza brigade consuming or poses a Despite the regular releases of over-the- or dust off a contamination risk, find HOUSEMADE top pies at national pizza chains, most decades-old pizza a local bakery to supply PEPPERONI menu? Here’s what’s independent restaurateurs exercise restraint it. Even if you sell the hot out of the oven: pie at cost, you’ve likely $1.65 with their pies. “Don’t overload it,” Wilson gained a loyal and grateful FLOUR + WATER says. “If you’re doing a combo, stick to three customer base that will SALUMI PIZZA ingredients max, so it all shines. If you use Flatbread: Pizza’s cousin, order other dishes. great stuff and tell a story about it on your TOTAL FOOD COST 33% flatbreads offer the same menu, [customers] value that.” blank canvas to show- Margherita $4.95 Smaller pies also play into current diner case ingredients. They While some pizzerias and fast-casual restaurants preferences for sharing and sampling. “If can be freer in shape and MENU PRICE battle to engineer the people want a variety, they’ll buy more,” he seem less out of place on $18 MOZZARELLA most extreme pizza says. “Why sell a large for $18 when you can a Mediterranean or rustic farm-to-table menu. toppings, many are $.75 sell three smalls for $13 each?” scaling back. A no-fuss, high-quality tomato, basil Name it right. and mozzarella pie likely 15% Most people already love pizza, so chefs are will be your top seller. wary of turning them off with complicated descriptions. Stanley knows that even when she’s using an Italian-style sausage or trying out a special sauce, it’s important to keep PARMESAN & PECORINO terminology approachable. “You can sneak ingredients in, you just have $1 to learn how to name it so it feels familiar,” Stanley says. “I never use any French words. They have to be pronounceable.” 20% That’s why regulars often refer to her Roman pizza prosciutto and rocket pie as “the salad Neapolitan was the pizza.” With no separate children’s menu, buzz pie for years, The Turtle Restaurant eases kids into the but larger restau- adult menu with simpler pies topped with rants may have OREGANO trouble delivering gorgonzola and Parmesan. a consistent pie $.04 While pizza’s cult following always has with such a wet room for new converts and even some dough. The Roman stuffed-crust-loving heretics, chefs who have pie, a thin-but-not- 1% perfected their pies share a similar mantra: cracker crust with keep the ingredients simple and fresh. a slight chew and golden edges, is more structured “There’s really no excuse to make bad and travels well. CALABRIAN pizza,” Stanley says. n CHILE

$.12 Kate Bernot, nightlife editor at RedEye Chicago, is always up for a late-night pizza. 2% PHOTO BY ERIC WOLFINGER LEFT:

24 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 25 TREND TRACKER What’s hot and what’s about to catch fire? Here’s the heat:

Enough with Dominique the weird Ansel Bakery’s animal proprietary Speaking restaurant “cronut” of slices, names. (croissant customers can’t Latin doughnut) is stop loading up American causing a wave on pie. cuisine of imitations Pastry chefs goes hyper- across the stop making regional. country. artsy desserts that look like Jackson Pollock knockoffs.

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It’s time to experiment with dark leafy greens other If you have than kale. a beverage menu, there’d Pizza is piping hot Communal better be with housemade dining finally cider on it. ingredients and ends, to Chefs are specialty ovens. the relief of making room diners and for Indian restaurateurs Bad-boy and Middle alike. Eastern chefs are spices. growing up and finding a new appreciation for classic service elements.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 27 THE MAIN INGREDIENTS TO YOUR SUCCESS ARE HERE.

Two years ago, US Foods® embarked on a journey focused on three key things. We wanted to bring the best FOOD to our customers. We wanted to have the best team of FOOD PEOPLE in the business working with our customers, and we wanted it to be EASY to work with us. The Food Fanatics program is a great example of bringing those three elements together. It’s creating a community of chefs, restaurant operators and foodservice USFADVERTISEMENT professionals who discuss trends and industry issues while sharing their experience and expertise to help everyone PAGE 29 grow—even in a challenging market. Food Fanatics is just a piece of what we can bring to help operators like you be successful every day.

John Lederer, Chief Executive Officer, US Foods

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Building the Next MVP Your next star player is just one stage away

Line cook Rebecca Arnold and Tavern Road

STEPHEN HAINES PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHEN HAINES PHOTOGRAPHY Chef-owner Louis DiBiccari. foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 33 FEED THE STAFF

STAGING—THE ACT OF WORKING FOR FREE IN RESTAURANTS IN EXCHANGE FOR LEARNING THE TRADE—HAS LONG BEEN AN INDUSTRY PRACTICE. A stint at certain Michelin-starred restaurants could earn someone bragging rights to last RESETTING a career. Yet traditional expectations behind staging are changing. More than a rite of passage, the stage is becoming a means to find new hires and provide continuing the STAGE education for staff. Here’s how chefs are getting in on the sharing and learning. By Kate Leahy Photography by Stephen Haines

Zucchini and Sage Scones

Owner Andrea Carbine A Toute Heure Cranford, N.J.

200 grams flour, plus extra for dusting 1½ teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt 60 grams butter, cubed Chefs 130 grams whole milk, plus 1 tablespoon 5 grams Parmesan, freshly grated ½ cup zucchini (unpeeled) large shred, rewrite liquid squeezed 1 teaspoon sage, chopped 1 egg yolk the rules 4 tablespoons colby or other soft cheese, grated of on- Combine flour, baking powder and salt In food processor and pulse until mixed. Add butter and pulse until it resembles gravel the-job (just combined). Add 130 grams milk slowly and only until dough just comes together. learning Add Parmesan, zucchini and sage. Turn out onto floured surface and knead just to bring dough together.

Pat into a square (about 5x5 inches) about 1-inch thick. Using a knife, cut into 8 squares of equal size and transfer onto lightly greased or parchment-lined baking tray. Whip yolk with remaining milk and brush tops of scones. Top with cheese and bake in Tavern Road’s Chef-owner Louis preheated 425F oven about 12 minutes until DiBiccari, who has worked with golden and puffed. Makes 8 scones. some of Boston’s most renowned chefs, is a big supporter of

continuing education. PHOTO BY TYLLIE BARBOSA

34 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 35 Share your best stage experience on Twitter @foodfanatics

Clockwise from top, Rebecca Arnold, who has staged at many restaurants, shares her knowledge at Tavern Toad in Boston. The experiences have helped secure a sous chef post at a recently opened restaurant.

Open Door Policies “We now get to ask the students questions, “In any industry, you have professional Between the restaurant, the takeout counter so when they come, it’s more interactive,” Chef development,” Carbine says. “I don’t see why it ADVERTISEMENT and the catering department, a culinary Robbie Washington says. should be different in the restaurant industry.” school intern has plenty of work at Insalata’s At Chef-owner Kelly Liken’s namesake in San Anselmo, Calif. But Chef-owner restaurant in Vail, Colo., the back door Pack Your Knives And Go Heidi Krahling doesn’t let anyone take an is always open for chefs looking to stage, Will Foden, executive chef of 83 1/2 in New PAGE 37 intern for granted. whether they’re in search of a job or just want York City, credits staging for exposing him “Yes, you want them to do some repetitive to roll up their sleeves and work for a day or to different culinary styles and an array of work to up their skills, but you also want to two. For Liken, someone new in the kitchen management techniques, from inventory give them time with chefs to inspire them to brings a fresh perspective and helps foster management to menu pricing. come back every day,” she says. relationships with chefs at other restaurants. “There are two reasons to stage,” Foden Krahling moves interns throughout the “In the past five or 10 years, there has been a says. “One, you’re going to learn from kitchen, assigning them to a different cook growing camaraderie and a desire to work with other people. Two, it makes you better at every few days. One day might be focused on each other rather than compete,” she says. managing people in general.” catering mise en place while another might Chef de cuisine Matt Limbaugh, a five- involve churning out batches of hummus or Working Knowledge year veteran of Restaurant Kelly Liken, slicing pita, picking mint, stemming cherry Restaurant owners can’t rely solely on staff requested time away from Vail to learn tomatoes and making vinaigrette for the promotions to retain top employees. To keep more. “I wasn’t looking for a job,” Limbaugh restaurant’s popular fattoush salad. her chefs engaged, owner Andrea Carbine of explains. “I was looking to see how other If the interns are quick learners, they A Toute Heure in Cranford, N.J., encourages people run their kitchens.” could land a full-time job. “When you can employees to stage at other operations to learn Liken made some calls, setting Limbaugh see that they’re hungry and they have talent new skills. up for stages at Blackberry Farm in Walland, and they want a job, we jump to hire them,” “We want to make sure that people have Tenn., and Sbraga in Philadelphia. Upon Krahling says. the opportunity to learn and grow with us,” returning to Kelly Liken, Limbaugh started Sometimes, the learning goes both ways. Carbine says. challenging his cooks to push themselves. At Case Western Reserve University in She helped her night sous chef, Robyn Reiss, “If you’re not getting pushed to get out of Cleveland, nutrition majors and graduate arrange a stage at Sullivan Street Bakery in your comfort zone, you’re not progressing,” students spend 15 to 20 hours in the Bon New York to hone bread baking skills. Carbine Limbaugh says. “It’s about growing.” n Appétit Management Company-run paid Reiss, a salaried employee, during her campus kitchens to learn the basics of days spent at the bakery. In turn, Reiss is now Kate Leahy is an Oakland, Calif.-based food foodservice. When Bon Appétit started fine-tuning A Toute Heure’s bread program. writer and cookbook author who will stage for rolling out an enhanced nutrition well- Inspired, other employees are drafting a a decent staff meal. being program, the professional cooks wish list of skills they’d like to perfect, such faced their own learning curve. as making charcuterie and fresh pasta.

36 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 ONE UNIVERSAL TRUTH PREVAILS ALL IN THE among Latino diners, a diverse demographic some 50 million strong with an estimated $1 trillion in spending power. Eating out will always pale in comparison to sharing a home- cooked meal at abuela’s house.

But a lesson can be learned from this fact. Based on research, the recurring thread is the intercon- nection between family and food in Latino culture— specifically the need to take time out of each day to commune with family and friends over a meal.

FAMILIARestaurants looking to court the growing Latino These core values of food and family translate into diners’ expectations of fresh ingredients, demographic are quickly learning that it’s all about family authentic recipes, value-driven pricing and

By Peter Gianopulos accommodating service. aprenden rápidamente que es una cuestión de familia de cuestión una es que rápidamente aprenden Diversity is the Spice of Life Restaurantes que esperan aprovechar el crecimiento Latino Latino crecimiento el aprovechar esperan que FAMILIA Restaurantes Trying a single formula for attracting Latino diners of all ages and nationalities is futile, says Elizabeth Johnson-Kossick, a Latin cuisine specialist at the Culinary Institute of America in San Antonio. Operators need to think of Latino Don’t do a dish that most people are familiar with like Americans less as one homogeneous population and more as pockets of unique consumers, each cochinita pibil and then not follow the original recipe or with different backgrounds and expectations. [not] use the right ingredients. That’s a real turnoff. “Nationality matters in Latino culture,” Johnson- — Oscar del Rivero of Jaguar Ceviche

Kossick says. “The importance of family ties might Spoon Bar and Latam Grill be universal, but a person’s cultural identity often

stems from where they are from. Food is simply the outward manifestation of that particular culture.” TODO QUEDA EN QUEDA TODO When the CIA in San Antonio launched its offering a modern Latin American menu. Mexican ambitious NAO restaurant in 2012, it crafted a menu and South American dishes pepper the menu, from that spanned Latin America. But offering a little bit mango salads and Brazilian churrasco on the grill to of everything failed to excite its diverse clientele. bowls of Peruvian chupe de camaron (shrimp soup) By using a rotating model that honors one served on Wednesdays. particular country or region at a time, NAO not only “Whatever you do, make sure you do it right,” Chef attracted more customers from different regions Oscar del Rivero says. “Don’t do a dish that most people but also younger, more adventurous diners. are familiar with like cochinita pibil and then not follow The Jaguar Ceviche Spoon Bar and Latam the original recipe or [not] use the right ingredients. Grill in Coconut Grove, Fla., took a similar route, That’s a real turnoff.”

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 39 LATINO DINERS To the Authentic Go the Spoils typical 30-day period, according to a 2012 study TIPS FOR ATTRACTING No matter their heritage, Latino diners by Spanish-language media provider Univi- overwhelmingly prefer authentic Latin LATINO DINERS sion. The research reiterates the importance creations to American riffs on traditional of midday meals, convenience and affordability dishes, according to Datassential, a market- FIND YOUR ACCENT but also underscores the value that Latinos research firm. Offering a bland Tex-Mex Instead of revamping your entire place on a welcoming environment and expan- menu, accent signature items with burrito versus a time-honored torta or arepa Latin flavors, such as adding chipotle sive spaces for large groups. (grilled corn flatbread filled with meat) recipe sauce to a burger, or spices, such as “Consumer research has shown that once can be the difference between a one-time adobo seasonings, to an omelet. a brand establishes a relationship with Hispanic Hispanics are more likely to visit visitor and a regular customer. consumers, they become even more loyal quick service restaurants than Victor’s Café in New York has prospered WORK ON YOUR SPANISH customers than non-Hispanics,” says Pete non-Hispanics... for more than 50 years by bridging the gap Menus in Spanish are a must for Filiaci, vice president of strategy and insights between tradition and changing tastes. “Those restaurants that serve first- and for Univision Communications Inc. to spend time with family two things—tradition and family—keep our second-generation Hispanic diners, Hispanics made about 9.6 Latino diners loyal,” owner Sonia Zaldivar says. but hiring Spanish-speaking servers Everybody Counts % % can benefit almost any restaurant Its sofrito (aromatic foundation for many targeting Latinos. For many restaurants, including the growing billion restaurant visits 44 vs. 20 dishes featuring tomatoes, garlic onions and TQLA restaurant chain in Phoenix and 2 OUT OF 5 LATINOS SAY SOME HISPANIC other ingredients) might be prepared the same Houston, Latino loyalty has been earned by in 2012, spending $63 to treat the children FLAVORS OR INGREDIENTS ARE HIGHLY way as a half-century ago, but now it’s spiced creating diverse, value-driven menus that billion. The check average IMPORTANT AT RESTAURANTS. ONE- with widespread Latin American ingredients, appeal to multigenerational families. TQLA’s % % THIRD SAY BILINGUAL OR SPANISH such as cilantro and hot peppers, to appeal to happy hour, which features unlimited chips rose 4% from 2011 to 2012. 30 vs. 16 MENUS AND A GREETING IN ENGLISH OR all Latino diners. and salsa, appeals to Latino professionals and — The NPD Group/CREST Hispanic SPANISH ARE VERY IMPORTANT. Because most Latin American countries HOLA large families. Authentic recipes for tortilla to spend time with friends — Technomic grow produce year-round, fresh ingredients soup and migas featuring scrambled eggs with are a prerequisite, Zaldivar says. But to crispy tortillas, jack cheese and jalapenos have % % accommodate more health-conscious second- START JUICING made even the most discerning home cooks and third-generation Latinos, Victor’s has Something as simple as fresh fruit smile. In addition, an “Under 550 Calorie” smoothies or aguas frescas (fruit juice 21 vs. 10 switched to olive oil and relies more on grilling, section has performed well among younger — Univision mixed with water) is an easy way to Hispanics comprise baking and braising instead of frying. gain traction with Hispanic customers. members of the family. % At La Gloria in San Antonio, Chef Because the midday meal tends to be the 17 % of the U.S. Johnny Hernandez showcases Mexican TELL A GREAT STORY largest in Latino households, lunch and brunch 34 craftsmanship to enhance the authentic vibe In Latino culture, food and storytelling menus can offer the best opportunities to reach population—the of the restaurant. From benches and wooden are inextricable. Offer a short this segment. angel statues to china and glassware, nearly background story or name the dish At 660, located at The Angler’s Boutique nation’s largest everything in the restaurant is imported from after its Resort in Miami Beach, Fla., Chef Carlos Mexico. Diner interest has led to opening a creator. This Torres mixes Colombian specials such as a minority group. can spur retail outlet inside the restaurant so guests dialogue chicken ropa vieja eggs Benedict or corncakes of U.S. Hispanic restaurant The figure is expected can purchase the same decorative items. with fresh berries, guava butter, Mexican patrons are 18 to 34. and project to reach 31% by 2060. “Providing customers with an authentic authenticity. cheese, maple syrup and condensed milk into — The NPD Group/CREST Hispanic dining experience is essential to our concept,” his brunch menu. — U.S. Census Bureau 4.9 million Hispanics trace their Hernandez says. “We want to freshly roast and “It’s all about consistency, quality and roots to Puerto Rico, making it the GET LEANER second place of origin for Latin grind everything. We want to feel authentic, In many Latin service,” Torres says. “At the end of the day, Americans. Mexico is the first. inside and out.” countries, meat is a luxury. Instead Latino diners vote with their zapatos [shoes] of packing extra ground beef or and they are quick to share a great experience — U.S. Census Bureau Objects of Value steak into a dish, focus on creating with those they truly care about.” n Latinos visit quick-service restaurants on intriguing sides, such as fried plantains or substituting quinoa and brown rice Peter Gianopulos is a Chicago-based food average more than 10 times compared to just for rice and beans. under seven times for non-Hispanics in a writer and adjunct professor of journalism at Loyola University.

40 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 41 TALK SHOP

Service OPERATORS SHARE IN THEIR OWN WORDS WHAT IT TAKES TO IMPRESS DINERS

Compiled by Carly Fisher and Laura Yee

42 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 43 Hospitality by the Book A Face Says 1,000 Words COMMENDABLE, “We rewrote our hiring process and “When I started working with French focused our GMs on better selection, cuisine, there were many [employees] CONSISTENT specifically hospitality-oriented who were very good, many who were people. We went back to a two- average. Today is no exception. There SERVICE IS THE interview process, reference checks, are so many who are incredible, and a restaurant tour and gave our some who just plain shouldn’t be in ULTIMATE GOAL FOR managers specific questions to ask the industry. the candidate. We also made a hard [Servers] are our ambassadors. If the rule: If the candidate doesn’t smile, food is great but the service is terrible, THE CONSUMMATE we don’t hire them. Our turnover a [customers] won’t come back. For year later is below 50 percent (it was example, I train my waiters to watch CHEF AND 85 percent). Less turnover and better the expression of customers when they new hires lead to consistency and put the plate in front of them. If they RESTAURATEUR. better service for the guests. don’t have an expression, then you We also developed a 12-page have to wait until they take the first EVERYONE HAS guide (developed by servers and Role Play to Get It Right bite. That first bite tells you everything Show Off Your Food managers) about hospitality. You “A great server doesn’t just understand the progression of about the customer that you need to “I say, bring back the ‘cart’ as a service THEIR PROVEN can’t really measure hospitality, but the meal, but has the desire to make someone happy. Part of know. When you take a bite, your face is element. The cart can be whatever is the guide’s main focus was to equate it is the constant messaging—these are the things that are going to say whether you like it or not. seasonal and whatever the team loves METHODS, hospitality with making guests feel at going to make your customer happy. If my waiter says to the customer, at the moment. This allows diners to home—tying together the restaurant We try to do a decent amount of role playing at pre-meal “Did you enjoy everything?” it means see what is being served, learn about experience along with how you every day to try to envision situations and different ways to they haven’t been paying attention to it and watch the action. Gary Danko MANY ROOTED prepare meals at home for family deal with them. It’s quite embarrassing in pre-meal to have the table in the first place. If they didn’t (in San Francisco) has an amazing and friends. Then we spoke to every someone “spiel the table”—when you greet the table and enjoy the meal, you better find out why. cheese cart. IN OLD-SCHOOL employee about hospitality, the guide talk about specials—if they’re awkward and there are lots of The waiters need to constantly be on I have always wanted to do a tomato and dining in the restaurant. The pauses. If you’re embarrassed in front of your co-workers, the lookout for the facial expression of cart—push the cart around and show Match Service with the Concept APPROACHES THAT results were positive: a 25-percent while it’s a bit of a harsh method, it really forces you to get the customer.” diners as you slice the heirloom and “At Niche, while not stuffy by any means, we have a more reduction in guest complaints.” it right. At the end of the day, they have to go to a table with garnish with whatever they like. We formal service. Soups are poured at the table. An item roasted WORK AS WELL confidence and the desire to please customers. And if they José Gutierrez, chef-owner don’t have a cart because space is an for two will be brought to the table, then taken back to the River Oaks, Memphis, Tenn. Bart Fricks, chief operating officer don’t do that, we all end up with egg on our faces.” issue at a neighborhood restaurant like kitchen to be carved and plated. Calhoun’s, Chesapeake’s and other Age: 55 Campo (100 seats). We do, however, TODAY AS THEY DID concepts (totaling 17 locations) Backstory: Trained with Paul Bocuse; But at our more casual restaurants, we don’t do that. Michael Leviton, chef-owner under Knoxville-based Copper worked at Restaurant de France at show the food to our guests. We sell Everything is price based, in my opinion. If you’re paying for Lumière, Area Four and soon-to-open A4 Pizza in Greater Cellar Restaurants, Knoxville, Tenn. the former Meridien Hotel in Houston; heirloom tomatoes like that on the 25 YEARS AGO. quality service, then you should definitely be getting quality Boston Age: 46 Chez Philippe at The Peabody hotel menu now (garnishes include sea salt, Age: 47 service. A lot of that adds to the mystique of a fine dining Backstory: Vice president of and Encore Restaurant and Bar in Backstory: Seven-time James Beard Award nominee; extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic and FIVE OPERATORS IN restaurant and the luxury of that experience. operations for Ruby Tuesday for 18 Memphis worked with Joyce Goldstein at Square One in San Fran- more). We sell about 250 pounds of There’s been a transition in restaurants these days to a lot years, including a period when the cisco, Daniel Boulud at Le Cirque and Eric Ripert at Le heirlooms a week (during the season). more mid-range restaurants run by great chefs and restaura- Maryville, Tenn.-based chain was THEIR OWN WORDS Bernardin in New York Our staff is trained on menu and teurs at really affordable price points. They have the quality of opening more than 100 units a year farms extensively because we want fine dining restaurants, but with a different style of service— REVEAL THAT THE them to be an extension of the kitchen. more fast-paced, casual service, which is fitting. You don’t go In the winter, we carve Bistecca out to a restaurant where you’re going to get a pizza and $12 Fiorentina or dry-aged porterhouses SIMPLEST METHODS bowl of pasta and necessarily expect them to come finish for two people. We display truffles things tableside. to shave on risotto or other special CAN BE THE MOST Nor do I think that would be cost sustainable. Having the additions to a dish.” front waiter, back waiter experience is a very expensive prop- If my waiter says to the customer, EFFECTIVE IN THE osition. We’re in a time when labor is a lot more. But in a fine ‘Did you enjoy everything?’ it means they Mark Estee, chef-owner dining restaurant where you’re charging upward of $100 per Campo in Reno, Nev. and Mammoth NEVER-ENDING person just for food, I think it’s more appropriate to have that haven’t been paying attention to the table in Lakes, Calif.; Burger Me! in Truckee, personal touch and connection with the guest.” the first place. If they didn’t enjoy the meal, Calif. and Reno, Nev. PURSUIT OF GREAT Age: 41 Gerard Craft, chef-owner you better find out why. Backstory: Campo named one of Es- Niche, Pastaria, Brasserie and Taste in St. Louis, Mo. —José Gutierrez of River Oaks quire’s Best New Restaurants of 2012; SERVICE. Age: 33 2013 James Beard Award Semifinalist; Backstory: Bistro Toujours in Park City, Utah; Chateau Best Chef: West; Hyatt Hotels Marmont in Los Angeles

44 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 45 FOOD FANATIC ROAD TRIP! Get a mouthful from our resident expert

Find the keys THE HIGHLIGHTS MONEY & SENSE to success Charleston This establishment owned by Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman is known for refined Lowcountry cooking on its ever-changing prix fixe menu.

The Food Market Go for the small plates and Chad Gauss’ take on traditional comfort food. Keep an eye out for the food truck.

R&R Taqueria Don’t judge this carryout joint by its location: the side of a Shell gas station. Chef Rodrigo Albarran, a Mexico City native, breaks down whole goats for the city’s most authentic Mexican cuisine.

Woodberry Kitchen This farm-to-table restaurant is easily the hottest ticket in town, especially after being named a James Beard semifinalist earlier this year. Baltimore EASTERN SHORE CRAB CAKE Baltimore has long been known as the blue-collar 12 saltines, finely crushed 2 eggs, beaten seaside town sandwiched between cosmopolitan 3 tablespoons mayonnaise Washington, D.C., and Philadelphia. But an ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce advent of new chefs are cooking up a fresh 1 tablespoon Old Bay Seasoning culinary identity for the Charm City. Salt and pepper to taste Relying heavily on local seafood and produce 1½ pounds jumbo lump blue crab from Maryland farms, notable chefs like Cindy ¼ cup butter, melted Old Bay remoulade, recipe follows Wolf and Chad Gauss are working with native growers, fishers and artisanal purveyors. First- Combine saltines, eggs, mayonnaise, Perry Canestraro is a Food rate food is everywhere in Baltimore—and is Worcestershire sauce, Old Bay Seasoning Fanatic chef for US Foods here to stay. and add salt and pepper to taste. Gently fold who loves local seafood and That’s because when the food is less than in crabmeat and form 6 balls. Gently press baking pies. He never turns stellar, a Baltimore native never keeps quiet. If down to form cake; chill. down a ticket to an O’s game. a restaurant knocks us off our feet, on the other At service, place crab cakes on a sheet pan, drizzle with butter and broil until golden brown, hand, we’ll be loyal until the grave. The no- Holy Grail of Hospitality about 8 to 10 minutes. Serve with Old Bay nonsense people of Baltimore know good food remoulade. Makes 6 servings. Find more better than anyone else. Come on down and see To make Old Bay remoulade, combine ¾ cup Restaurant longevity isn’t an oxymoron of Perry’s what I mean. n mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 2 Baltimore teaspoons Dijon mustard, 1½ teaspoons whole- Wildflower American picks in grain mustard, 1 teaspoon chopped green onion, Cuisine In Tucson, this video. Get more recommendations at FoodFanatics.com. ¼ teaspoon horseradish, 1 teaspoon apple cider Ariz., continues to vinegar and ½ teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning. thrive after 15 years. ILLUSTRATION BY TIM MARRS

46 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 47 Long-standing restaurants like Wildflower (opposite page) and Arnaud’s (below) follow many of the nine ways to stay relevant in the fickle restaurant business.

Restaurants of a Certain RESTAURANTS SEEM TO COME AND GO IN THE BLINK OF AN EYE. BUT EVERY SO OFTEN, A RESTAURANT DELIVERS JUST THE RIGHT MIX OF QUALITY FOOD AND COMFORTABLE AMBIANCE TO SURVIVE—EVEN THRIVE— EVERY PASSING YEAR. To keep regulars loyal and attract Nine ways to grow new diners, stalwarts know how to work it. They provide great food, old and stay hot pile on the hospitality, regularly AGE refresh menus and ensure that interior spaces stay up to date. By Monica Ginsburg But much of their success comes from embracing their roots. 48 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 9 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 49 “If you fail to keep your regular, core customers, you’ve lost that To improve the classics, Bottero takes “You can’t stay in your own bubble,” he says. voice, that advocate, who’s talking you up to five or 10 other people,” advantage of today’s varied and trendy, high- “Go to another city and eat at 10 different says Craig Huse, owner of St. Elmo Steak House, an Indianapolis Several dining options at Arnaud’s quality ingredients, using grass-fed beef, locally restaurants and come back with two new ideas. It expand its reach while guest favorites fixture since 1902. “They continually introduce the restaurant to sourced fish, new varieties of lettuces and herbs, doesn’t have to be food; it can be a light fixture, such as Strawberries Arnaud friends and business associates and keep it moving forward.” and eggs and produce delivered from a farm in uniforms, a new cocktail.” (strawberries macerated in port, red Balancing tradition with the need to remain current can be tricky. wine, spices and citrus with French upstate New York. On a recent trip to Denver, for example, Jasper Here are nine ways to keep foot traffic high and earn veteran status. vanilla cream) keep guests loyal. “I keep all the old dishes traditional, but I change liked the vintage coupe glasses at speakeasy bar 1. Refurbish, Not Remodel the seasonal ingredients to keep it fresh, clean and Williams & Graham so much that he replaced bright,” she says. Wildflower’s traditional martini glasses and “You’ve got to continuously reinvent yourself, but that idea is Champagne flutes with similar glassware. complicated for some people,” says BJ Lowenthal, chief financial 5. Remain Hands-On “You’ll make your restaurant better,” he says, officer at Johnny Harris Restaurant, which has served smoked chicken Dexter Weaver has dished up soul-food staples “and when you share something new with your and ribs in Savannah, Ga., for 89 years. for 27 years at Weaver D’s Delicious Fine Foods customers, they’ll get excited too.” His solution: evolve more than change. in Athens, Ga. In October 2012, after several lean Earlier this year, for example, he upgraded the restaurant’s wall years, Weaver announced that his restaurant would 8. Use Space Strategically coverings and floors, among other interior modifications. Lowenthal close if business didn’t pick up. With 28,000 square feet in the French Quarter of says those changes drew little notice from guests—which was He reached out to local media, many of which New Orleans, 95-year-old Arnaud’s houses several precisely the point. covered his story. A Facebook group sprang up to dining options under one roof. The namesake “We can’t let it get old and tired, but we can’t get away with encourage a mass outing there, and in the weeks Arnaud’s offers Creole fine dining while the less changing the 1930s supper club look,” he says. “When people come that followed, customers packed the dining room. formal Jazz Bistro features live music. The French in, that’s the draw.” More than a year later, the buzz has settled and 75 bar, adjacent to the main dining room, serves 2. Give a Warm Welcome Weaver D’s is still standing. classic cocktails and draws guests who aren’t eating Weaver says that most of the restaurant’s at the restaurant. Remoulade, the restaurant’s Regular patrons often enjoy being recognized and greeted by name, problems were tied to the economic downturn. But casual sibling, is accessible via a separate entrance especially by an owner or favorite server, but it’s important that he acknowledges that he could have been friendlier and features local dishes like shrimp remoulade, tourists and other first-timers feel welcome too, Lowenthal says. to his customers and that running daily deals and along with an oyster bar and café fare. The waitstaff at St. Elmo is trained to avoid lingering too long with other promotions was a mistake. “We’ve been successful by reaching out to regulars and to share the restaurant’s rich history, including a “Wall of Today, he says he’s more involved than ever in people via different outlets instead of just one Fame” of celebrity-signed menus, with out-of-towners. all aspects of the business, taking the time to greet traditional dining experience,” co-owner Katy “We have a history, stories and traditions to tell,” he says. “It guests and thank them for their support. “You have Casbarian says. “It keeps us relevant and opens up entertains many of our visitors and it’s something we have that to be hands-on,” he says. “You cannot operate it new ways for people to get their foot in the door others don’t.” from home.” for the Arnaud’s experience.” 3. Court Younger Customers 6. Be a Good Neighbor 9. Plan for Passing the Torch For years, the lunch crowd at Adelmo’s Ristorante, a quaint two-story Signature appetizers like souffle potatoes at Arnaud’s in New Many restaurant owners look for ways to build Many long-lived restaurants are family-owned Italian spot in Dallas, has been mostly men. Now, construction of a Orleans (above) and of-the-moment ingredients such as grass-fed relationships in their communities. For the and operated. Problems can arise when plans for Trader Joe’s grocery store and Lululemon Athletica shop is underway beef in classics, says Paola Bottero of her namesake restaurant in past four years, Bottero has donated group succession from one generation to the next aren’t on the same street. Adelmo Banchetti, who has owned the restaurant New York, are essential to staying current. dinners prepared in a private home to support in place or are not clearly communicated among for 24 years, says he plans to add salads and lighter pasta dishes to the fundraisers for neighborhood schools and other family members. This can be tricky, especially if menu to appeal to younger shoppers. charitable groups. owners have more than one child. Two years ago, St. Elmo built the 1933 Lounge on the floor above the “A lot of people see it and it’s made us more friends “There’s two different decisions to make: what’s restaurant, offering craft cocktails and a small plates menu to attract than ever,” she says. best for the business and what’s best for the family,” the younger after-work crowd. “We had to adapt to a clientele that Regan Jasper, a partner with Fox Restaurant Kramarczuk says. “Sometimes they don’t coincide.” didn’t want a two hour steak-and-potatoes-driven meal,” Huse says. Concepts, which owns the 15-year-old Wildflower Kramarczuk requires his four adult children In Minneapolis, 59-year-old Kramarczuk’s adapted by taking its When you share American Cuisine in Tucson, Ariz., and other to work for at least two companies outside of the food to the crowds. For the past four years, the restaurant, which is restaurants, has a long history of involving family business before coming aboard full-time. known for Eastern European fare, has been selling its iconic sausages something new with community organizations. Last year, Wildflower He’s also sought advice from business consultants, at Target Field, the home ballpark of the Minnesota Twins. In the first your customers, they’ll expanded its outreach by donating red wine to a gala accountants and attorneys to work through the year, they sold $2.3 million in sausages during baseball season. benefiting the Angel Charity for Children Inc. process. With one son working in the business, he “It’s a lot of exposure to the 20- and 30-year-old group,” owner Orest get excited, too. “They appreciated us showing up and we’ve says succession is resolved. Kramarczuk says. “They’re the survival of our business.” — Regan Jasper of Fox Restaurant Concepts attracted a new demographic that way,” he says. “It’s one of the most difficult things in a family n 4. Update Traditional Dishes business to do,” he says. 7. Check Out Other Restaurants Paola Bottero, chef-owner of Paola’s on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, Jasper encourages his team to try different Monica Ginsburg is a Chicago-based freelance owes much of the restaurant’s 30-year success to maintaining the restaurants and visit food-centric cities for writer. traditional flavors of her Roman upbringing. inspiration.

50 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 51 By David Farkas / Illustration by Andrew Bannacker READY FOR A DIFFERENT KIND OF

Three chef-turned-consultants give insight into stepping over to the other side

A TIME COMES IN ALMOST EVERY CHEF’S LIFE WHEN THOUGHTS TURN TO GETTING OUT OF THE KITCHEN. It creeps in after working yet another 16-hour shift without a day off in nearly a month. Or, after missing out on more holidays and other significant events than you care to count. If becoming a consultant sounds like a pretty sweet gig, ask yourself if you’re ready to give up a steady paycheck or inherit someone else’s headaches. Suddenly, your swollen feet don’t feel so bad. Convinced you can handle the heat of someone else’s kitchen? Three busy consulting chefs explain how they became successful and why (or why not) you should consider doing the same.

52 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 53 Sean Kahlenberg Company: Blau + Associates, Las Vegas Years consulting: Two Achievements: Executive chef at Society Café, an Esquire Bradford Thompson “Best New Restaurant” (2009) Company: Bellyfull Consulting, THE COST OF CONSULTING New York What’s the best way to become chef-consultant? Years consulting: Three Becoming a consulting chef isn’t costly— Work your way up in restaurant companies that own Achievements: Food and Wine’s but it’s also not cheap. Bradford Thompson Best New Chef (2004); James Beard restaurants and consult for other properties. We have people spent about $7,000 to launch Bellyfull “Best Chef Southwest” (2006) here now who want to become consultants, and they are Consulting. Here’s his breakdown: doing that by being managers in our restaurants. Who should become a · Forming a limited liability company How do you know when a chef is ready to be consulting chef? (LLC): $250 a consultant? Young chefs shouldn’t have any · Local advertising: $500 to $1,500 It’s the cook who is pushing himself the hardest to do more intention of doing this because I don’t think it’s something you can do and taking on the duties of the guy next to him. · Working capital for expenses: $2,500 until you have spent many years in How much does teaching play a role in this kind the industry and experienced failure · New computer/printer: $1,500 of work? on some level. That’s an enormous part of what I do. It’s a bigger part of my · Bookkeeper: $300 to $500 quarterly job than I ever thought it would be. You have to have patience Then what? QuickBooks, $25 per month and be able to coach the people around you. You can bring the chef part, but you also need a big-picture understand- · Website design/business cards: $1,500 Do you recommend going out on your own ing of guest counts, table turns, or becoming part of a consulting group, like reservations set-up and the service you did? station’s impact on the kitchen. Most Kathy Casey With a group, you have a team of people sharing ideas. importantly, you have to manage and Company: Kathy Casey Food Studios, Seattle Because you are all saying the same thing to clients, assess personalities immediately, and Years consulting: 24 then mange them through the process. Achievements: James Beard-nominated cookbook author; Food your point gets across faster. You also tend to monitor DO YOU HAVE A CULINARY Network Canada blogger; host of “Kathy Casey’s Liquid yourself a little more, thinking about what another team Kitchen” (smallscreennetwork.com) member might say. How do you see your role as a CONSULTANT’S DNA? consultant today? Here are some characteristics of a I consider myself an entrepreneur, When did you become a consulting chef? How much money can chef-consultants earn as chef consultant: I started working as a consultant at an early age, in 1989. But I had worked part of a group? a consultant, a chef—all of these in the industry already for 10 years. Anywhere from $65,000 to hundreds of thousands. things. I asked myself: How can ❯ A constant marketer I build a business and find success What motivated you to get out of the kitchen? outside of the kitchen? ❯ Detailed oriented I missed the creative part [that involved] full concept development. So I worked on food menus, drink menu, interiors, graphics and service style. What are the hot cuisines to ❯ Cost minded I didn’t start just by doing culinary. have expertise in? The most important thing is having ❯ Deadline driven Do you recommend going out on your own or becoming a strong base of classic cuisines part of a consulting group? and food safety, and building on ❯ Thick-skinned that. Some young chefs do stages at Be aware of the pros and cons. Some people go out on their own and then ❯ say, “Holy crap! I have to write proposals and chase money.” They have Young chefs shouldn’t have any cutting-edge restaurants but then Capable of anticipating needs no office support. It becomes overwhelming. There’s a lot that goes into don’t know how to properly make an ❯ getting work. intention of doing this because onion soup or cook an egg. That said, I Motivated to make someone’s I don’t think it’s something you see chefs today exploring where they job easier come from and taking their classic How did you determine how much to charge clients? ❯ Responsive to clients I would charge a daily rate and also try to get a retainer—maybe on a per can do until you have spent training and applying it to foods that month basis. I actually had a lot of people sign me up on retainer. This many years in the industry and represent their roots. ❯ Likes to mentor and teach helps spread cost out. experienced failure on some level. Which headaches come with Where is your consulting work coming from these days? - Bradford Thompson, Bellyfull Consulting being consulting chef? It’s coming from hotels, bars, quick-service restaurants, national accounts Finding new accounts and writing and regional chains like Cactus (Southwest Kitchen & Bar). They’re proposals. That’s the hardest part of opening their fifth restaurant. I work with them every few years. I just did what I do. Hiring a full-time person in David Farkas has been writing about the a frozen margarita program. They like to see what’s new and interesting. the office who could take client calls is restaurant industry for more than 20 years. the next step for me. I’m still not there. And he still loves to go out and eat.

54 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 55 BEYOND THE PLATE

and adding sound-absorbing panels to For casual concepts, Herold suggests high ceilings can be helpful, Held says. making service stations a part of the Some operators caution against panels on design instead of hiding them. “Bring ceilings because they can detract from the them to the front of the house—put grandeur of a space, so be sure to consider everything you need on a big, round what’s right for your restaurant. table to give the feel that you’re walking into someone’s dining room,” she says. 3. CONFUSING MENU DESIGN Along with creating a comfortable Menus shouldn’t try too hard, Polacek ambiance, this prime placement helps says, adding that the best ones are servers and bussers access items quickly straightforward and clean. “No one likes and expedite service. looking at a menu that’s too tricked out An example of a INEFFICIENT KITCHEN stylish service with graphics or uses a font that’s not station at the easy to read,” he says. Try to-the-point 5. LAYOUTS Good Looks Aren’t Fifth Floor in descriptions in a type that’s simple, When a restaurant kitchen doesn’t flow San Francisco. legible and large, and complements the properly, this inefficiency slows down Below, tailored decor. When diners need assistance the line and impacts every aspect of the table lighting contributes to with reading the menu because of poor dining experience. EVERYTHING the ambiance layout and design, it can affect the overall Emphasis should also be placed on at Urbana in experience, he says. creating a traffic flow pattern that’s Washington, D.C. as efficient as possible, one that keeps POORLY DESIGNED staff from having to walk or even 4. SERVICE STATIONS reach across another person’s work Generically designed stations often area. Each staff position should be 1. INSUFFICIENT LIGHTING lack storage for china, glasses considered when designing a kitchen, 5 common design problems— Ambient lighting is great, but the intended effort will and silverware, and don’t reflect a with an understanding of the exact be lost on customers if it’s too dim to read menus restaurant’s concept, Polacek says. position of every cook on the line. By Judy Sutton Taylor and they have to flag down servers for help. Yet too This can lead to slower, noisier and less “It’s all about creating an efficient path and how to fix them much lighting can make a space look unappealing. efficient front-of-house service. “There of travel,” Held says. “Things should Fluorescents and LEDs—popular for kitchen and needs to be a coordination of effort move as directly and straightforward.” n between operation and design when it WHEN IT COMES TO DESIGN, prep areas—are some of the main offenders. The solution is layered lighting, according to comes to creating service stations,” he Judy Sutton Taylor is a Chicago-based IT’S EASY TO BE SEDUCED BY notes, adding that plate sizes, station editor and writer who appreciates the utility THE COME-HITHER FLICKER Karen Herold, vice president of design and partner at Chicago-based firm 555 International. “We’ll often placement and the necessary number of and beauty of smartly designed spaces. OF SEXY LIGHTING OR THE combine different levels of light, such as spots directly stations are important considerations. ALLURING LEGS OF A CHAIR. above tables with warm, glowy lamps or a custom While modern lighting and chandelier to create a warm atmosphere,” she says. boho accent pieces can look Robert Polacek, partner and chief creative officer stunning in a studio setting, for Puccini Group, a San Francisco-based restaurant choosing the wrong design consulting and design firm, suggests task lights and element can impact the flow dimmer systems to achieve this effect. “Restaurants can manage four or five different light settings of service, or worse, dampen for different times of day and purposes from a a customer’s experience with computer,” he says. unappealing ambiance. To save you from finding out the 2. BAD ACOUSTICS hard way, hospitality designers A restaurant’s acoustics are one of the most offer solutions to some of the overlooked—and subsequently problematic—design most common problems. elements, says Josh Held, president of Josh Held Design, a hospitality design firm in New York City. “Elements like wood floors and glass cabinets look great, but they’re less absorbent and cause sound to bounce around a room,” he says. “A noisy restaurant makes it hard to communicate with servers and other diners, and detracts from customers having a pleasant experience.” Padding the undersides of tables with acoustic foam using sound-absorbing upholstery 56 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 57 iHELP Ways to stay ahead of the tech curve PR MACHINE Sharp ideas to get butts in seats An Open Letter to Every Restaurant I Railed On longer running back and ings didn’t seem to be a good forth, collecting payments and fit. “We didn’t want to finish Dear Chef, delivering receipts. the transaction at the table, add another swiping device or take Even though I spent two decades reviewing New York restaurants anonymously, It can build loyalty. Most diners’ telephones from them every so often I would get recognized. So I’m familiar with that look of terror mobile programs can track to scan their codes elsewhere,” when chefs and restaurateurs think a critic is about to pounce. After all, what visits and engage customers he says. “We also wanted some- could be worse for a new restaurant than a bad review? by offering loyalty rewards thing that could easily integrate Even generally positive reviews can be smug. Remember, reviewers—whether through their devices. TGI Fri- with our systems.” they’re from small towns or big cities—make their living by being critical, and days launched its own mobile Hanson found his solution in the public loves a slap delivered in the middle of a caress. But what can you as the payment app last year that NCR Aloha Mobile technology, the public loves a slap delivered in the middle of a caress. But what can you as the allows guests to start a tab, keep which he incorporated into his chef or owner do about a bad review? track of it and pay directly from existing POS system. “You need First, here’s what you should not do: write an angry letter to the editor, lash their phones, as well as access to be patient and make sure you out via social media or publicly ban the critic from the restaurant—all of which their loyalty rewards accounts. find the right company doing backfire by highlighting the bad review. For example, one Brooklyn, N.Y., restaurant the right thing for your guest posted a negative piece of mine in its window, obliterating the negative remarks It tracks data. A mobile pay- and your team,” he says. with a felt-tip pen. This only served to suggest the large number of things that ment program can provide must be wrong with the place. So what should you do instead? aggregated inventory data and Consider cost. Vendors typi- sales analysis to help operators cally charge a transaction fee, Take a deep breath. Then, read the review more carefully. Savor the positive. If the see customer trends and react with some adding a charge Pay by Phone reviewer says your chicken breast was mushy and flavorless, chances are he also to them. per transaction. Do the math, notes that the hanger steak was perfectly cooked and attractively plated. You can Should you answer the call on consider all the angles and It adds street cred. There’s a comparison shop—there are pull the good quotes and use them on your website. mobile payments? definite “cool factor” to offering many companies offering e-wal- Make a checklist. Create an objective analysis of the review—itemizing the let services. negative aspects—and see if there’s any truth to the complaints. Some owners BY PAULA ANDRUSS mobile payments, says Tom Hanson, chief operating officer pay consultants thousands of dollars to assess their operations. Consider the bad of Pacific Catch restaurants, Calm security concerns. review free advice from an outside expert. especially in tech-savvy areas Security is one of the biggest Love-bomb the critic. Write a polite thank you note for the review and promise to The day when cell phones start director of commerce and such as his home base of San concerns surrounding this tech- take the advice to heart. This will be totally disarming. Many restaurateurs—if replacing wallets has arrived. entrepreneurship at the NRA. Francisco. “It seems like every nology, especially when it comes they respond at all—opt for a hate note, which too often ends up getting published. But should you embrace the There is no shortage of day people get excited about to consumer confidence. But Worry more about your repeat customers. Diners dedicated to hitting all the new technology? options available to grab that doing something new on their analysts expect that familiarity places first will probably not become repeat customers. Intensify your efforts Research from the National virtual cash; it’s just a matter of mobile devices,” he says. “This is will allay such concerns, in the to recruit loyal customers. Offer complimentary items during off-peak hours, or Restaurant Association reports choosing the right one for your just one more function that will same way consumers accepted institute a loyalty program that rewards repeat customers with modest discounts, that consumers are increasingly operation. If you need some continue to get buzz and grow as ATMs and e-commerce. demanding mobile payment convincing, read on: people use it.” “A lot of questions surround special tables, freebies, secret chef’s dishes or priority reservations. support from restaurants. For the cost, security and data man- As hard as it is to accept, much can be gained from bad reviews. Use them as an example, a third of all adults and It’s fast. Payment options It has to fit your business. agement of these technologies, opportunity to analyze your strengths and weaknesses, so you can make a total nearly half of 18-to-34-year- such as TabbedOut, which E-wallet transactions such and transparency will be abso- success of your new place. Good luck! olds would use mobile or wire- allows diners to pay by tapping as Google Wallet (consumers lutely critical as restaurateurs less devices to pay their tabs at a button on their smartphone, tap their phone on a payment attempt to understand new Yours Truly, full-service restaurants if they can make transactions up to terminal to pay their bill) may functions and new players in the had the option. 53 percent faster than regular be great for counter service, system,” Garner says. n “Being in the hospitality credit card swipes, according but less appealing tableside. industry, it’s essential to focus to industry estimates. This Hanson says his full-service Cincinnati-based freelancer Paula on services that keep guests payment method also increases restaurants held off on mobile Andruss writes for Entrepreneur, coming back,” says Liz Garner, efficiency—waitstaff are no payments because early offer- USA Today and other publications. ILLUSTRATION BY JOHN HOLCROFT ILLUSTRATION Robert Sietsema was a longtime restaurant critic at the Village Voice, wrote for Gourmet, garnered two James Beard nominations and published four books about restaurant criticism. 58 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 Seasoned advice on the DEAR FOOD FANATIC front and back of the house We want to do some extra training for our employees to improve service quality and boost our sales. But it’s like pulling teeth trying to get everyone here at the same time. Need a fix! I’M A HUGE PROPONENT OF CONTINUING EDUCATION. Employees need to be motivated and that’s most often done with money. Schedule the training on payday and then pass out the checks. Think about using the training as a platform for launching an internal promotion. Ask your vendors ADVERTISEMENT to contribute prizes to support the cause. Q. Is it just me or is my product growing Q. Everything I read says customers want legs and walking out the back door? I run the healthier options for kids. But chicken fingers and sales numbers but they don’t jibe. Do you have mac and cheese still sell the best. How do we reach suggestions on how to weed out my sticky-fingered more customers? PAGE 60 employee, or should I just clean house? A. Families today are dining out more often— A. First off, don’t hack off your nose to spite sometimes as a necessity, other times as a treat, so your face. You could lose some good employees maybe that’s where the discrepancy lies. The key is despite a few bad apples. It comes down to to make it familiar, appealing to kids and grown-ups accountability, so assign one person to receive with great ingredients and clever names. How about the product and put it away. Consider not allowing putting broccoli in mac and cheese and calling it “mac employees to bring in backpacks or large purses and trees”? The blender can be a huge help: Puree and change the employee entrance away from the vegetables into a sauce used for spaghetti, and use back door. If budget allows, install cameras at all whole-grain or whole wheat pasta. Call it “power FOOD FANATIC door sites. If you make big changes, be sure to noodles” or something fun. Think of ways to “hide” share the information with staff. healthy things so that the kids don’t really notice but Rob Johnson is a Food parents love you for it (think offering zucchini bread Fanatic chef for US Foods Q. The rising costs of ingredients and current instead of fries). These happy customers will reward from Oklahoma City who’s market conditions are killing me. Got any ideas on you with repeat business. a Southwest cuisine controlling food costs without crushing quality? aficionado and a lover of A. Everyone’s in the same boat. Start by Q. We struggle with consistent plate presentation. all things bacon. reviewing prep procedures for potential waste and Is there a way to cut down on our headaches? prep time inefficiencies. Emphasize to staff the cost A. Consistency is everything, whether it’s your ramifications of waste and how much additional staff and presentation or you reminding them. Run sales are required to make it up. Follow up with a complete line check before service starts every quarterly staff incentives staff based on food cost day—not just when you get aggravated. This line control. You can also re-engineer your offerings so check should focus on the FATT method, which is ingredients have three to four uses on your menu. based on flavor, appearance, texture and temperature @chefrobjohnson Finally, review portion sizes and utilize innovative of each line item and includes dry, refrigerated and Follow the Food Fanatic on products to add value with lower cost items. frozen prepared items. Twitter for more insider tips

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foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 61 I’LL DRINK TO THAT!

Since the 1930s, the sole So Bad, It’s Good ambergris punch and a brief history U.S. brand of an extremely strong— Robby Haynes, the beverage director at Chicago’s prominent of its use in alcoholic drinks. “But many say foul—tasting Swedish cocktail lounge Violet Hour, became so intrigued with Malört it’s sweetly musky and something wormwood liquor known as that he partnered with local distiller Letherbee to create his I’d compare to white truffles in its Jeppson’s Malört could only be own in late 2012. The result, R. Franklin’s Original Recipe allure—your eyes open a little wider purchased in the Chicago area. Malört, is a 100-proof version (Jeppson’s is 70 proof) that after tasting it.” But over the last few years, borrows Haynes’ middle name and is already so popular that Says Matthias Merges, owner of Malört’s popularity has grown by it’s available in bars and stores across the Midwest. Chicago bar Billy Sunday, “I have 80 percent thanks to mixologists Popularity, however, doesn’t sell a cocktail by itself. The a lot of success making bitters throughout the city and Chicago drink still has to taste good even if the main ingredient with ambergris after adding some hipsters, who wear their affinity as a doesn’t, Haynes says. “In the way that people like to be gentiane and wormwood. Just badge of honor and use the drink to challenged by different types of art, film and music, they a spray of this from an atomizer inflict pain on out-of-towners. want to be challenged by what they eat,” he says. “It might or a few drops in cocktails such Malört’s meteoric rise has been be more demanding to start, but you learn to appreciate it. as our Blonde Negroni (gin and paralleled by an increased interest in Still, drinks with these ingredients have to taste good and dry vermouth) brings forefront other bitter cocktail ingredients, most they have to showcase what’s unique about them, or you aromatics to unsuspecting heights.” notably fernet, a type of amaro long haven’t achieved anything.” popular in Argentina, and ambergris, A Balancing Act a bile-like waste secreted by sperm Drink Your Perfume Fernet is popular as both a digestif whales usually found floating in solid Ambergris is the rarest and priciest of the bitter ingredients and with coffee and espresso form atop the sea. It’s known for its (about $20 per gram) and is more common as an additive drinks. The Italian brand Fernet- potent muskiness (no joke). in perfume (it helps scent attach to the skin) than cocktails. Branca, originally used as a stomach The popularity of the bitter drinks “It’s hideously expensive, hard to get and difficult to handle,” medicine, is the best known, and is in step with current culinary tastes, says David Wondrich, a drinks correspondent for Esquire has recently been adopted in more says Brandon Wise, president of the magazine and the author of “Punch: The Delights (and creative cocktail recipes. BITTER Oregon Bartenders Guild and head Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl,” which includes a recipe for “(Fernet-Branca’s) complex flavor of the cocktail programs at Portland profile works well for mixing in is restaurants Imperial and Penny Diner. cocktails,” Wise says. “[It’s used] “Bartenders and chefs are in classic cocktails like the Toronto accustomed to big flavors,” he and the Hanky Panky, and its says. “Our inclination is to keep In this age of experimentation by mixologists, there’s a resurgence coincides with the interest BETTER pushing, going bigger, and see how in classic cocktails. The presence of tendency to reach a little further back in the liquor cabinet we might challenge and excite our potable bitters in these drinks makes palates and our guests.” to create something unique and memorable. them alluring and off the well-worn —Brandon Wise of Imperial and Penny Diner path of sugary cocktails.” The hottest craft cocktails bite back Fernet is seen as a way to balance By Judy Sutton Taylor Ichabod Crane cocktails, as its bitterness contrasts Mixologist William Hamrick with sweet ingredients, says William Hot and Hot Fish Club, Birmingham, Ala. Hamrick, a bartender at Hot and Hot Fish Club in Birmingham, Ala. 3¾ ounces Fernet-Branca “It is something with a bit of 1½ ounces pumpkin brandy mystique, so people are usually (recipe follows) willing to try it,” he says. 2 dashes pecan bitters Orange peel Wise compares bitter spirits’ impact in cocktails to salt and Stir all the ingredients in a mixing pepper. “They can heighten or glass and chill. Strain into a chilled compress flavors, add nuance and cocktail glass or snifter. Garnish with aromatics, provide balance and an orange peel. Makes 1 drink. texture to a drink, and often are the difference between a good drink and To make pumpkin brandy: Place n 10 allspice, 3 star anise, 1 vanilla an extraordinary drink,” he says. bean (scored), 2 sticks of cinna- mon and 12 cloves in a sachet and A Chicago-based writer, Judy Sutton immerse in 1 liter of brandy and 12 Taylor wouldn’t hesitate to challenge ounces blanched pumpkin. Infuse out-of-towners with a bitter cocktail. at room temperature in a dark area for 1 week. Remove spices and let infuse additional 2 weeks. Strain.

62 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 63 BY THE NUMBERS Make the figures count Apples & Oranges 14.9% 10.4% Apples and oranges are usually seen as opposites. Truth is, they’re more alike than different.

Percent increase in sales from the previous year Percent increase in fruit sales for the first quarter of the year, largely 8% due to apples and oranges ADVERTISEMENT Percentage of dessert menus that feature apples 6% Varieties of apples grown in PAGE 113 the U.S., including more than 2,500 100 grown commercially Percentage of cocktails featuring 13% orange as a flavor

Boxes of Florida oranges estimated for the 2012-2013 growing season, down 9 percent from last season 133.4 Apple pie ranks as MILLION ST the most popular 1 apple dessert

Percent increase of orange as a flavor in alcoholic beverages over the last three years 88% Estimated world production of apples in metric tons for 2013, a 2 percent 67.5MILLION increase from the previous year

64 FOOD FANATICS | WINTER 2014 ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS DANIELS; SOURCES: FLORIDA CITRUS MANUAL; MINTEL GROUP; SOURCES: FLORIDA BY CHRIS DANIELS; ILLUSTRATION APPLE ASSOCIATION U.S. OF AGRICULTURE; DEPARTMENT INC.; UNITED STATES TECHNOMIC, ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 114