CONSUMER CONFIDENCE FALLS/2 L.A. INSPIRATIONS/6-8 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDN • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper •ESDAY October 27, 2004 • $2.00 Sportswear The Trench Connection PARIS — Alber Elbaz’s beautiful spring collection for Lanvin had a very Parisian esprit, using the moody sophistication of the house’s heritage to make a winning statement of his own. He played with volume — one of the big trends of the season — in looks such as a lightweight mock parka over a full skirt and loose evening dresses with a touch of the Twenties. He also created a great version of one of the season’s most popular styles, the trenchcoat shown here. Coach Still on a Roll: As Profits Leap 60%, Big Expansion Ahead By Meredith Derby NEW YORK — Coach is painting its accessible luxury on a broader canvas. As the company reported a 60 percent leap in first-quarter earnings and a 33.2 percent rise in revenues, it said it was looking to add 100 stores over the next few years, remodel its New York flagship and introduce a higher-priced special collection for holiday retailing. Summing up how the surge in luxury spending has benefited Coach Inc., Lew Frankfort, chief executive officer of the company, said in a conference call, “During the last several years, we See Coach, Page16 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Consumer Confidence Falls GENERAL Coach’s first-quarter sales jumped 33 percent, earnings rose 60 percent, 1 its store count is set to add 100 units and it will remodel its flagship. As Job, Income Woes Loom A decline in October’s Consumer Confidence Index to 92.8 from 96.7 was 2 dragged down by a 5.9 percent drop in the Expectations Index. By Vicki M. Young wrote in a research note that “weaker assessments of the future accounted for most of the deteriora- Celanese Acetate on Tuesday said it would shutter its textile operations, NEW YORK — Consumers aren’t expecting a lot of tion” in the index, while the impact from a wave of 2 ending an 80-year run and costing 1,100 jobs. good news over the next six months. hurricanes last month understated the strength of SUZY: Dance, Dance, Dance at the American Ballet Theatre…Journeys A decline in October’s Consumer Confidence the labor market. He still expects hiring to rebound 4 with George Clooney…Rules of Engagement. Index to 92.8 from 96.7 last month was dragged to 225,000 in October from 96,000 in September. down by a 5.9 percent drop in the Expectations “High energy prices, a weaker stock market FASHION: Dolly Parton, Ginger from “Gilligan’s Island,” bohemians and beer Index, which fell to 92 from 97.7 in September. and hurricanes likely have sapped confidence in 6 are providing inspiration in spring collections for Los Angeles designers. The fall in the confidence index represents the the future,” Harris said. WEST: With the growing importance of contemporary specialty boutiques, third consecutive monthly decline, hitting its low- Economist Stephen Gallagher at SG Cowen 17 retailers and designers are confronting the issue of the exclusive. est level since March. The decline also was steep- wrote in his report that the pullback in consumer er than expected. Topping the list of concerns of confidence was a “disappointment,” but noted Classified Advertisements ...... 18-23 those polled were fewer jobs as well as a lack of that the weaker view of the future must be condi- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is improvement in their income. tioned on worries over oil prices and to a lesser [email protected], using the individual’s name. “Subdued expectations, as opposed to eroding extent the upcoming presidential election. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 present-day conditions, were the major cause be- Gallagher cautioned, however, that “how much FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. hind October’s decline in consumer confidence,” higher oil prices stem consumption and hiring plans VOLUME 188, NO. 90. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional said Lynn Franco, director of The Conference remains a critical question going forward, and the issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 Board’s Consumer Research Center, which com- responses by consumers in this survey reveal a keen West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; piles the index. awareness of the risks even as they report stable to Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Franco said while consumers’ assessment of slightly improving current employment trends.” Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- the labor market improved, the gain was not Should job growth fail to rebound and wage President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at enough to ease concerns about future job growth. growth slow, a big risk is that retail sales could additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Meanwhile, the Present Situation Index, a “dry up,” according to Bernstein Research analyst No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. component of the Consumer Confidence Index, Emme Kozloff. She added in a report that softer FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR dipped to 94.2 in October from 95.3 in September. sales “could drive downside to retail stocks on the DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is According to October’s survey, consumers were order of 10 percent to 15 percent.” required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new cautious about the future, with those anticipating For intellectual property attorney Kara Cenar, subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, conditions to worsen increasing to 10.3 percent partner at Welsh & Katz in Chicago, the slowdown please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild from 9.4 percent in the prior survey. Consumers in confidence means more work for her. “When magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully expecting business conditions to improve fell to confidence is low, consumers become more cau- screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. 20.6 percent from 21.6 percent. tious, and they start to look for ways to stretch WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED On the jobs front, those expecting fewer jobs to their dollars. Infringers knock off branded goods MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND become available jumped to 18.4 from 16.2 last to get their share of those dollars, causing brand- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED month. In addition, consumers expecting their in- ed manufacturers to spend more money fighting TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE comes to improve over the next six months dipped knockoffs and counterfeiters,” Cenar said. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. to 18.4 percent from 20 percent. She said as consumers gravitate toward the While the consensus forecasts by economists Internet in search of bargains, there’s a greater pegged the index at 94, the steeper decline didn’t need for her firm’s services to protect domain seem to be a problem for some. names and keep track of new sites to make sure In Brief Maury Harris, chief U.S. economist at UBS, they don’t sell bogus goods.

● GILAN’S NEW FLAGSHIP: Turkish fine jeweler Gilan has signed a lease for its first U.S. flagship at 743 Fifth Avenue in New York. The 1,950-square-foot boutique will be sandwiched between Louis Vuitton’s flagship at the corner of 57th Street and Celanese Set to Pull Out of Textiles Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s store. The Phillips Group, which also worked on the Vuitton flagship, will supervise construction of the space, which will be designed by architect Sinan Kafader, look and the related economic who has worked on numerous Four Seasons Hotels. Gilan is ex- By Scott Malone Keith Nagy conditions no longer allow us to pecting a spring 2005 opening. The 20-year-old brand has occu- NEW YORK — Celanese Acetate, allocate resources to this prod- pied an appointment-only salon in the Crown Building on Fifth once the world’s largest produc- uct line,” said Doug Madden, Avenue since September 2003. er of acetate fiber, said Tuesday president of Celanese Acetate that it planned to close its textile LLC, in a statement. “We will re- ● JACOB & CO. JOINS DDM: Antwerp-based diamond company operations, at a cost of about main committed to ensuring a DD Manufacturing has acquired a stake in Jacob & Co., the fine 1,100 jobs. smooth transition of supply for jewelry firm best known for catering to a celebrity and hip-hop Keith Nagy, the firm’s direc- our filament customers.” clientele, for an undisclosed sum. The deal gives DDM a direct tor of filament, said the move Celanese has been a player channel to the retail market, and the two firms plan to introduce was forced by a difficult macro- in the textile industry since the a branded diamond cut in 2005. This winter, Jacob & Co. will economic environment for fiber 1920s, and in recent years re- open a flagship boutique on New York’s 57th Street and Latin makers. mained a significant force in the singer Thalia will appear in the brand’s debut advertising cam- “It’s a continued deteriora- industry, conducting twice-year- paign, which begins running in fashion magazines in December. tion of demand and some of the ly trend forecasts and for sever- traditional markets turning over al years sponsoring figure ● LI & FUNG BUYS RALSEY: Sourcing powerhouse Li & Fung to cheaper polyester,” he said in skater Kristi Yamaguchi. Ltd. acquired private label manufacturer Ralsey Group Ltd., a phone interview. “Today’s Still, the surge of competition confirming a report in WWD on Friday that the two were in markets could not sustain the from Asian textile makers in re- talks. Ralsey will continue to operate independently with own- prices required to keep busi- cent years, which have proven ers Michael and Jamie Delaney retaining their current roles as ness running.” able to undercut the prices of chief executive officer and executive vice president of design, Filament acetate, a cellulosic their Western competitors, took a respectively. “Ralsey Group will add strength to our U.S. design fiber made from plant matter, is clear toll on Celanese’s margins. and merchandising group, which we are looking to grow signifi- primarily used for linings, though That pressure is seen intensify- cantly over the next three years,” said Tom Haugen, executive it also is used in evening dresses to the ailing U.S. textile industry, ing after the 148 nations of the director of Li & Fung, in a statement. and other high-end looks. which has faced waves of plant World Trade Organization drop The firm plans to close its fil- closings and bankruptcies over their apparel and textile quotas ● DAK’S POLY BUMP: Citing increases in cost of raw materials, ament plant in Rock Hill, S.C., the past few years. In August, on Jan. 1, an event that is expect- DAK Fibers raised the price of its polyester staple fibers by 3 early next year, and shutter its U.S. mill employment stood at ed to trigger even greater price cents a pound, beginning with Nov. 15 shipments. Base prices for Edmonton, Alberta, plant by 235,700, a 6.4 percent decline competition. such fibers range from 64 to 70 cents. “DAK Fibers understands early 2007. It will continue to from a year earlier. Over the past In recent years, Celanese’s the stress that the entire industry is facing, but it must offset sell filament acetate to existing two weeks, the fiber company ownership has changed several these ingredient increases in order to remain a quality supplier customers until about the mid- Unifi Inc. and fabric mill Delta times. in this market,” said the firm in a statement. dle of next year, Nagy said. Woodside Industries disclosed The firm was spun off to the The news marks another blow more job cuts. public by its former parent, ● SPEEDO SWIM DEAL: Speedo has extended its partnership After closing its filament tex- Germany’s Hoechst, in 1999. with USA Swimming, the national governing body for the sport, tile operation, Celanese’s focus Early this year it was acquired through 2012. Under the terms of the deal, Speedo will continue will be on producing acetate by Blackstone Capital Partners, to supply the deck uniforms for all U.S. national teams, includ- tow, the staple fiber commonly in a deal valued at $3.82 billion. ing the 2008 and 2012 Olympic teams. Swimming saw a surge in used to make cigarette filters. The overall Celanese group has popularity during the Summer Games, driven in part by new The company plans to close annual sales of $4.6 billion, a fig- swimsuit technologies, such as Speedo’s Fastkin II. As the spon- its New York marketing office ure that includes the chemical sor for the governing body, Speedo also has the exclusive retail by Dec. 31. and technical polymer business- sales rights at all USA Swimming national events. “The long-term market out- es, in addition to acetate. WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM The Anniversary Party By Marshall Heyman NEW YORK — Donna Karan celebrated the first 20 years of her business (as well as the launch of her new book “The Journey of a Woman: 20 Years of Donna Karan”) with a blowout at her Madison Avenue store Monday night that brought out celebrity friends like Sandra Bernhard, Bernadette Peters, Iman and Brooke Shields and business associates like Angela Lindvall, who stars in her ad campaign. A few guests were no more than 20 years old themselves, such as famous daughters Mickey Sumner, the offspring of Sting and Trudie Styler, and Lydia Hearst-Shaw. (Another pair of twentysomethings, Alexandra and Theodora Richards, showed up later in the evening.) “They called me up and said they wanted to dress me and I said, ‘Woo hoo!’” exclaimed Sumner, who is studying fine art at Parsons School of Design. It was a rare night out for the budding Ford model. “I’ve been doing a lot of homework. You know, paint- ing the New York skyline, sculpting my face in wax. I’ve got to go home tonight and finish that.” Patty Cohen, Karan’s all-around wing woman, said they’d in- vited residents of the adjacent apartment building to stay in a hotel for the evening: two took her up on the offer; three went Mickey Sumner Angela Lindvall out to dinner on the company, and the rest were happy simply inin DonnaDonna Karan.Karan. inin DonnaDonna Karan.Karan. to be invited. Though she was afraid her voice might go, Shields spent her evening off from performing in “Wonderful Town” — she recently took over from Tony nominee Donna Murphy — to fete the de- signer. “I call myself a renewal, not a replacement,” she admit- ted. “You’ve got to see it with me. It’s a happy show. ‘Cabaret’ was a little more depressing.” The actress added that it “was not real- ly fair” that the New York Times came to review her early, “But I was on my game.” Peters embraced Karan’s daughter, Gabby, and sat down for a quick pow-wow. “I knew Gabby when she was a little girl,” the Gabby Karan and Broadway veteran explained, and launched into her favorite Donna Karan Gianpaolo de Felice. Donna story: “When she came to my wedding, she landed in a helicopter. She came out of the plane wearing a floppy hat, san- dals and her sunglasses. I’ll always remember that.” Then she was off to congratulate Shields on the Times’ rave review. As for this evening’s moment in the spotlight, Karan grabbed a microphone in the center of the store to introduce the singer Andrea McClusky, who was recommended by pals Ingrid Sischy and Sandra Brant. “We wanted to have the hottest everything,” Karan told the crowd. She turned to McClusky and asked, “Are you Scottish? Did you come from Scotland?” (McClusky, who said she’s more of a DKNY than Donna Karan girl herself, is based in New York and Paris.) “I just came for you, darling,” McClusky responded, in a flirty, Iman throaty rasp. and When the performance was over, Karan told McClusky: Brooke “You’re so hot.” Shields, “I’m like a kid again,” Karan continued. “This marks a begin- Angela both in ning and an end. It’s the end of one of the longest years in the McCluskey Donna last 20 years. Since we started working on the book, I’ve been and her band. KaraKaran.n. pre-ing it and pre-ing it, and pre-ing it. Now, finally, it’s just it.” JOHN CALABRESE PHOTOS BY

Then came the main event. In an hour- WOMEN OF GLAMOUR: “The Daily Show” NO MOORE: Just like baseball, there’s no long chat with Time managing editor Jim host Jon Stewart, White House crying in fashion. Evidently, though, no one MEMO PAD Kelly, Clinton praised his successor’s correspondent Helen Thomas and actress passed on that gem of wisdom to some of emotional intelligence, defended his Katie Holmes will appear onstage the designers showing during fashion week pardon of fugitive financier Marc Rich and together at the American Museum of in Los Angeles. Jenni Kayne, apparently WILD ABOUT BILL: A perfect political storm said he questioned Martha Stewart’s Natural History on Nov. 8. And, no, it’s upset over the review for her sophomore converged on the American Magazine conviction. “They didn’t even charge her not for an anthropological experiment. effort in April, has banned Los Angeles Conference in Boca Raton, Fla., this week with what seemed to be the main offense It’s Glamour’s 15th annual Woman of Times fashion critic Booth Moore from her as Vice President Dick Cheney, who was — they charged her with the Year awards (like show tonight. This is a first for Moore, who campaigning in Palm Beach County, something else,” he said. WWD, Glamour is part of covers fashion weeks in New York, London, spent Monday night at the hotel where “I’m always a little queasy Advance Publications Milan and Paris for the newspaper. But that former president Bill Clinton was set to when that happens.” Inc.). ABC’s Sam wasn’t the only potential shutout delivered speak the following morning. “Does that Understandably so. Donaldson will be there to Monday. Moore also received a call from a mean the last swing voter is somewhere in The response was present the Lifetime publicist on behalf of her successful dress this county?” asked Newsweek editor predictably ecstatic. Chris Achievement award to client showing later this week. The Mark Whitaker, who interviewed CNN’s Jeff Napolitano, Playboy’s Thomas; Stewart will “request”? If Moore wasn’t planning on Greenfield and “Primary Colors” author Joe editorial director, said he honor MTV Network writing a “nice” review, could she bother Klein at Monday’s luncheon. Klein had was struck by Clinton’s lack chairman and chief not mentioning the designer at all — or some pithy advice for undecided voters: of partisan rancor. “I’m a executive officer Judy even attending? — Rose Apodaca Jones “If you’re too lazy to have thought about Democrat, but you almost McGrath, and Holmes will this thing by this point, stay home, begin to think maybe the Carolina present an award to CIAO BELLA: Harper’s Bazaar is boning up because your vote is going to be like a Carolina Republicans aren’t so bad Herrera designer Carolina Herrera. on its Italian. In addition to the contaminant.” when you see it through “In terms of people who’ve magazine’s Paris office, run by Natasha On Tuesday, Russell Simmons, clad in a Clinton’s eyes,” he said. “I’ve never seen made an impact this year, Mrs. Herrera Fraser-Cavassoni, Bazaar now has a full- “Vote or Die!” T-shirt, offered some anybody in public life with the ability to be is basically a goddess,” said Glamour’s time presence in Milan. J.J. Martin, most unvarnished insight of his own, criticizing so expository,” said Meredith publishing editor in chief Cindi Leive. “If I could recently a contributor to Fashion Week the media for categorizing people by skin group president Jack Griffin. Mary Murcko, wear her clothing every day for the rest Daily and T: The New York Times’ Style color. “You’ve got two black people on this publisher of Best Life, had a unique of my life, I’d be happy.” Enumerating Magazine, joins the publication as a stage, and I’ve never met this man before perspective: She’s one of the few Thomas’ many merits, Leive said, “She Milan-based contributing editor. today,” he said. (The other was Sports Americans who has read “My Life” from not only got a lot of scoops but According to a Hearst spokeswoman, Illustrated’s assistant managing editor Roy cover to cover. “It reminded me how smart persuaded a lot of world leaders to Martin will be “covering the Italian S. Johnson.) Asked afterward about his he was, how much he knew,” she said of boycott the male-only press clubs….A fashion scene for the magazine.” Loosely confrontational remarks, Simmons said, the talk. “He’s so engaging and inclusive, lot of women owe her a huge debt of translated, that means “shopping and “That’s what they brought me here for.” and I’ve missed that.” — Jeff Bercovici gratitude.” — Sara James schmoozing with Milanese elite.” — S.J. 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Dance, Dance, Dance ● Journeys with George ● Rules of Engagement

Kimberly Stewart, to rocker Cisco Adler, music producer Lee Lou Adler’s son. Kimberly is flashing a flashing Radziwill engagement ring and saying, “He’s my best friend, my lover, my soul mate. He really is my everything.” May the marriage last longer than that quote. ● The following is a quote from Tuesday’s New York Times: “Showing that money can still be made in the old- line industries, the turnaround specialist Wilbur L. Ross is selling a steel company that he created over the last two years in a deal that could create a profit of more than $2 billion for himself and his shareholders. “Mr. Ross entered the steel industry in 2002 when his buyout firm W. L. Ross & Company made a $325 million offer for a shuttered Cleveland steel mill. Five deals, almost $2.2 billion and less than three years later, Mr. Ross is selling the company for $4.5 billion and pocketing a personal stake in the new company worth nearly $3 million.” These have surely been banner years for Wilbur Ross. Along with all his business success, he very recently married Hilary Geary, of New York and Southampton society, and their huge wedding party at the Rainbow Room drew a crowd glittering enough for any billionaire and his bride. ● Mayor Michael Bloomberg, frightfully debonair in white tie, along with the Duchess of Marlborough in an elegant black Armani suit with a silver fox stole and an enormous crystal and diamond broach pinned to her shoulder; Princess Michael of Kent, in a white blouse and gray plaid suit; Julia Koch wrapped in a seemingly endless chain of diamonds around her throat Kimberly that dropped to her Stewart waist; Joan Rivers in a red tweed coat with a sable collar by Escada, and Deborah Norville in pale pink led the fashion parade at the Society of Memorial Sloan- Kettering Cancer Center’s 16th Anniversary Preview Party for the International Fine Art & Antique Suzy Dealers’ Show. At By Aileen Mehle least 1,200 guests swept in to be American Ballet Theatre opened its fall greeted by the season at City Center, a gala evening society’s president, marking the beginning of fabulous Coco Kopelman, in a eye® Alessandra Ferri’s 20th year with ABT and black-and-white Julie Kent’s anticipated return to the tweed jacket by company since she gave birth to her first child in April. Chanel with a Her husband is, of course, the renowned ballet master diamond star-shaped Victor Barbee. The co-chairs of the opening gathered in necklace. Nan the lobby of City Center just moments before the curtain Kempner, who never rose, including Muffie Potter Aston in a lavender Carolina misses anything if Herrera, Cynthia Lufkin in a Louis Vuitton tartan blouse she can help it, and skirt and Grace Meigher in black silk trimmed with perched on a stool in black satin. In the crowd were Blaine Trump in a Badgley a black knit top over Mischka coat, Isabella Rossellini, Lee Radziwill, Pauline a leopard printed Pitt, Anne Grauso, Anne Bass, Susan Fales-Hill, Judy and skirt. Others in the Sam Peabody and Peggy and Lew Ranieri. throng included The celebration continued at the Plaza Hotel with a Jamie Niven, Prince dinner in the Grand Ballroom. Principal dancer Maxim Dimitri of Beloserkovsky and his gorgeous wife, Irina Dvorovenko, Yugoslavia, Jamee wearing a half-million dollars worth of Graff diamonds, Gregory, Mercedes were the stars of the dinner. Half a million dollars in Bass, Cynthia diamonds being a little too hard to ignore. You will be Phipps, Joanne de thrilled to hear that the gala raised over half a million Guardiola in Yves dollars, which is also hard to ignore. Saint Laurent’s silk

● WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY wrap top with a mink George Clooney and his sweetie Lisa Snowdon, who lined collar and a lives and works in London, have decided not to let miles silver silk leopard printed skirt, Michael Vollbracht of Bill and miles between them keep them apart and are giving Blass, Muffie Potter Aston in a black Gucci silk suit (she love another chance. Lisa is making a point of flying over told her friends that her twin girls are expected in to see George for at least a few days every two weeks, but January), Susan Burke, Anne Bass, Cynthia and Dan when is he flying over to see her? Anyhow, the two of Lufkin, Karen LeFrak, Barbara de Portago, and on and on them are so happy and comfortable together that it’s into the night. Calvin Klein was there, too, saying he had starting to show on George’s waistline. Lisa says he has his eye on a $450,000 antique chest that he thought would stopped working out and has gained a few pounds, so she look good in his Southampton house. Yes, but is he sure? put him on a diet. It’s all so sweet. There was $500 million worth of the finest art and ● antiques from three continents on display and a special Rod Stewart and his ex, Alana Stewart (she was once booth marking the 50th anniversary of the National Antique Alana Hamilton when she was married to George Anne & Art Dealers Association of America. Best of all, the Hamilton) are thrilled to teeny, tiny bits to announce the Bass society raised almost a million dollars to further its good engagement of their beautiful 25-year-old daughter, works. All that and the mayor, too. “You can’t wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club.” Jack London

Wait no longer. WWDMAGIC has joined the rest of the MAGIC Marketplace at the Las Vegas Convention Center to create the most efficient buying environment possible. 3,300+ exhibitors showing 5,000 brands. All the trends. One roof. And possibly that next best thing that could put your sales over the top. It’s all here. Come get inspired.

Inspirational. February 14-17, 2005 Las Vegas Convention Center

REGISTRATION INFORMATION: 218.723.9792 EXHIBIT INFORMATION: 818.593.5000 Jack London is not associated with, and does not endorse or support, the MAGIC event. 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004

▲ “The spirit of the gypsy culture.” — Sue Wong

“Running in the grass with your shoes off and then slipping on a pair of heels,

or not, for cocktails.” — Ella Moss’ Pamella Protzel ▲

Bebo & Cigala’s album “Lagrimas Negras.” Big Ideas LOS ANGELES — Dolly Parton, “Gilligan’s” Ginger, bohemians and beer — a designer’s imagination knows no bounds. As Los Angeles Fashion Week begins, some of the city’s leading lights tell WWD

where inspiration struck for spring. ▲ “Quartz crystal.” — Rojas’ Freddie Rojas ▲“Dragons and flowers — knit layers cascade like the scales of a majestic dragon, while a hem imitates the ruffled edge of an orchid’s petal.” — Oligo Tissew

“The wardrobes in 1980’s ‘Nine to Five.’” — Grey Ant’s Grant Krajecki ▲

Lily Tomlin, Dolly Parton and Jane Fonda in “Nine to Five.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM

Amanda Barrett and Abby DeWald of More From LA The Ditty Bops. “The innocence of the Fifties; the elegance of Douglas Sirk movies; the anticipation of prom night; hot dogs sizzling on the BBQ; the cacophony of a traveling fair.” — Coco Kliks

“The partially blurred, partially focused work of Karl Blossfeldt.” — Davies’ Erica Davies

“The collection is called ‘Savage Gypsies in the Urban Lagoon.’ These girls are wild, eclectic and full of surprises.” — Heike Jarick

“A modern Gatsby reinvented with a street sensibility.” — Jenni Kayne

“Russian avant-garde filmmaker Alexander Sokurov.” — martinMARTIN’s Eric Martin and Diane Moss-Martin

“The nautical styles of the Forties.” — Louis Verdad

“The shapes and colors of wet desert rocks, birds and sunsets.” — Pegah Anvarian

“The hydrangea.” — Rami Kashou

“Audrey Hepburn.” — Shakti’s Jacquelyne Love

“A sophisticated French woman. She sits and smokes; she ▲Mixing preppy, doesn’t give a damn.” — Shawn’s Yohanna Logan aristocratic “Sixties’ icon Twiggy.” — Sheri Bodell royalty with a ▲“The retro-optimistic and ultrapositive sounds of “The beautiful photographs of African villagers in Jackie girly girl.” Nickerson’s book, ‘Farm.’” — Society for Rational Dress’ The Ditty Bops’ music.” — Petro Zillia’s Nony Tochterman — Kushcush’s Kerry Corinne Grassini Cushman Fashion Scoops Tina Louise as Ginger. MARIO’S FOCUS: Mario Testino is shooting Versace’s men’s “Ginger Grant ad campaign in London and reports are that he’ll next head to Los Angeles to shoot the women’s — with none other of ‘Gilligan’s than Madonna. The rock star-style icon-children’s book Island,’ a little writer is poised to ease into Donatella Versace’s spring looks like the candy-colored satin dresses, scarf-printed disheveled numbers and touches of metallic details. As a further sign of Versace’s changing times, Testino’s lens will replace that when washed of Steven Meisel, who has shot the house’s ad campaigns for years. While a company spokesman confirmed Testino ashore, but will shoot both the men’s and women’s ad images, he always declined to confirm the Madonna coup. VIVA LA SHIVA: L.A. fashionista Shiva Rose McDermott will glamorous.” be one of the hosts at GenArt’s fashion show Wednesday night, but the actress says she’s considering introducing — Eduardo Lucero her own line as well. “I’m so picky about my clothes that ▲ I’m afraid it will end up being very hard to produce,” she said. “And when I see Marc Jacobs’ clothes, I think twice because he already designs everything I’d like to wear.”

Ashley Paige’s mother Leah That said, she’s been making the party rounds in self-made JOHN MULLIGAN Magee, circa 1970. items such as the full skirt cut from leopard nylon she wore BY to Diane von Furstenberg’s luncheon at her home here.

▲“Southern girls circa the Seventies, MOORE, MOORE, MOORE: It would seem Mandy Moore already Alabama beaches and beer, biker-chic jewelry has her plate full as a singer and actress. Au contraire! Moore will now also star in Coach’s spring campaign in Japan, where and Dolly Parton hair, campers, country music the luxury goods company is a roaring success and holds the and lonely dirt roads!” — Ashley Paige number-two market share position. The ads will break in Japanese magazines and outdoor locations in March. Shot in New York by Steven Sebring earlier this month, they feature Moore wearing a custom-made green feather bustier, a custom-embroidered Scribble signature skirt and a matching Scribble pocket satchel from the spring collection

ARMANI EXCHANGE: La Goulue’s lunch crowd barely stirred Tuesday when a demure man in dark sunglasses whisked into the room. A closer inspection would have found Giorgio Armani enjoying a quiet lunch with a handful of friends as he prepared for his fashion show and party later that evening at Pier 94.

WINTER, SPRING, SUMMER OR FALL: Bergdorf Goodman was a store for all seasons on Friday. While Richard Lambertson and John Truex of Lambertson Truex previewed their bags for spring they were also toasting the Neue Galerie’s upcoming Winter Gala. Gala co-chairs Aerin Lauder, Lillian von Stauffenberg, Liya Kebede and Renee Rockefeller proved they can multitask as they bounced around dress code ideas one minute and complimented the new spring bags the next. Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner of Café Sabarsky and Wallsé created a few Austrian hors d’oeuvres that certainly strayed from typical party fare — liverwurst with onion confit or cooked ham with horseradish, anyone? But even ▲“An element of St. Tropez chic.” that couldn’t distract the ladies from such pieces as — Kate O’Connor Lambertson’s patchwork lizard clutch. NINE TO FIVE FROM PHOTO BY 20THCENTURY FOX/NEAL PETERS COLLECTION; GINGER BY UA/COURTESY OF NEAL PETERS COLLECTION; DITTY BOPS UA/COURTESY 20THCENTURY FOX/NEAL PETERS COLLECTION; GINGER BY NINE TO FIVE FROM PHOTO BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

Linda Start Me Up Loudermilk Los Angeles Fashion Week started on a positive note, Arthur as Arthur Mendonça went for modern-day goddess looks, Mendonça while Kevan Hall showed classic American glamour and Linda Loudermilk took flight with avian-inspired prints.

Arthur Mendonça: For his terrific spring collection, Arthur Mendonça, a 28-year-old Toronto-based designer, was inspired by the long, sunny afternoons in Greece. Certainly his group of steel and yellow slinky jersey dresses, artfully cut with twisted waist details, evoked modern goddesses, while his peasant-styled dresses, full flirty skirts and sheer sweaters were perfect for lounging at a Mediterranean cafe. The designer also rolled out plenty of strikingly smart, sexy Kevan Hall pieces for the young city woman. His jackets, for example, had structured shoulders, but the soft cotton fabric gave the effect of polished nonchalance. Mendonça’s two-year-old line currently sells at Holt Renfrew back home and at Fischer & Co. in London.

Kevan Hall: After a one-season hiatus from the runway, Kevan Hall returned with a strong spring collection. Glamour was the word here, as the designer referenced Millicent Rogers with his classic belted shirtdress complemented by Verdura jewelry. But there was also a heavy dose of Rita Hayworth in his kiwi Grecian gown and a mango-and-watermelon Empire dress. Other looks were inspired Kevan Hall by classic American sportswear, such as his gown with a cashmere top and silk skirt and his multicolored striped blouse paired with an iridescent aqua skirt. Altogether, the collection looked fresher than in previous seasons, thanks to a lighter hand in the cuts and colors. Hall has yet to become a red- carpet favorite, but stylists and their A-list clients ought to take note. Laurence Fishburne and Alfre Woodard, who were sitting in the front row, already have.

Linda Loudermilk: Linda Loudermilk has Arthur been showing her “eco luxury” collection, Mendonça made from environmentally friendly materials such as bamboo and organic los cotton, for the past two seasons. The Atlanta-born designer, who recently angeles moved to Los Angeles after four years in angeles Paris, presented her first formal American show on Sunday. For spring, Loudermilk revealed an obsession with birds, illustrated by the rainbow-hued chiffon prints and the oversized appliqués on the back of neatly tailored, shrunken jackets. But her best looks were the simplest ones — drainpipe trousers with a peacock appliqué down one leg, or a T-shirt with tulle trim and insets. Where Loudermilk ran into serious trouble, however, was when she tried too hard, as with the tie-dye tulle skirt with its complicated curvy-edged waistband. The designer plans to Linda open her first store on Melrose Place in February, complete with solar Loudermilk panels and an adobe floor.

LOS ANGELES — As it turns out, drag icon Holly Woodlawn and Gotham socialite Cornelia Guest have something in common: They both like Patrick McMullan and his lens. The duo was among an eccentric klatch of guests at the Fenix Night Lives inside Jeff Klein’s Argyle Hotel in West Hollywood to celebrate the West Coast launch of McMullan’s “InTents” tome on Monday night. In what appeared to be a flashback to Eighties New York club life, guests included Jacqui Getty and Angela Janklow, Bettina Zilkha, Denise Rich, James St. James and Kenny Scharf, as well as local Bryan Rabin at “kids” Brett Easton Ellis, Jacqui Getty, Fairuza Balk, Amanda Scheer Demme, Bryan Rabin, the Fenix. Frankie B’s Danielle Clarke and her rocker husband, Gilby Clarke. Later, at the east side Mexican restaurant Malo, Paper Magazine’s Kim Hastreiter and David Hershkovitz continued their own Left Coast book launch for “20 Years of Style: The World Penélope According to Paper.” The toasting had started the evening before at the Hollywood Cruz at nightspot Star Shoes with Pedro Almodovar and Penélope Cruz. At Malo, the Paper duo the Paper fed a nonstop feast of eggplant tacos to artists Shepard Fairey, Adam Silverman and party at Scharf, as well as to Shawn designer Yohanna Logan, stylist Miles Siggens and Thomas Star Lauderdale and China Forbes of the lounge band Pink Martini. When Forbes revealed that Shoes. she happens to be John Kerry’s cousin, there was a resounding cheer from the group. Politics and partying were also on the mind of Mischa Barton of “The O.C.” Sunday night at the Hollywood club Tokio. As it turns out, Barton isn’t a U.S. citizen. The British expat has had a green card since age five, and hasn’t thought to take the Pledge of Allegiance. That may soon change. “The gravity of this election has me inspired to finally become a naturalized “T“Thehe O.C.” girls citizen to be able to vote in the future,” she said. Barton’s fellow “The O.C.” stars, Rachel Bilson and Melinda Clarke, Mischa Barton joined her at Tokio, along with hosts Heather Graham and her director boyfriend, Chris Weitz (a partner in the club). The and Rachel Cornelia Guest and Rachel event was intended to raise funds through the bar and an auction with Elara Diamonds, and awareness for the Bilson at Tokio. and Lisa Rinna nonprofit International Foundation for Terror Act Victims. SHOW PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; PARTIES BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO BY GIANNONI; PARTIES GIOVANNI SHOW PHOTOS BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM In the MainstreamX AmericasMart Solid After the Storms By Georgia Lee ribbon belts from Molly B. While color has boosted sales in re- cent seasons, Osiason also bought neutrals, including black and ATLANTA — Southeastern buyers at AmericasMart, putting the orchid combinations by Nanette Lepore. Osiason dabbled in hurricanes of August and September behind them, shopped enthu- peasant skirts from Tibi and Cynthia Steffe. siastically for spring, inspired by color, novelty and preppy looks. Business picked up this year at Mam’selles, a Jackson, Tenn., Retailers bought into prints, patterns and embellishments they store, where owner Debbie Swacker shopped with a budget up feel will continue to resonate with consumers. Dresses, skirts and 10 percent. She bought from Elliott Lauren, Olsen, BCBG and capri pants showed action, as did jeans lines that address a range Michael Stars, and added new resources, such as BCBG girls. of ages and sizes. The craze for ponchos and wraps carried on. Ponchos, her store’s hottest item of the past six months, have ap- Attendance at the show, which ended its five-day run Oct. pealed to a variety of customers. For spring, she bought lightweight, 18, was flat compared with last year, said Lawton Hall, senior crochet ponchos and wraps from BCBG, Purp7e and Mac & Jac. vice president of AmericasMart Apparel. Exhibitors and mart Bridge sportswear for baby boomers was the target for officials speculated that some Florida retailers stayed home, Sherry Bryan, owner of R. Bryan, a boutique in Wilmington, rebuilding business after the hurricanes. N.C. Bryan bought more stretch jeans with reorder capabilities Michael Hyman, of the Michael & Paula Hyman sales firm, from Bianca, Womyn and Christopher Blue. In capris, she or- said although he saw fewer Florida stores than usual, sales in- dered novelty print styles by In the Wash and new pedal-push- creased 25 percent over last October because of bigger orders. er silhouettes from Renfrew, as well as cashmere sweaters On the runway in Atlanta, looks from Anthracite Kathie Orrico, owner of C. Orrico, with four Florida stores, in from White + Warren and T-shirts by Necessitees. and Precious Formals. Palm Beach, West Palm Beach, Del Ray and Naples, lost around a month’s worth of business from the hurricane closings. “We’re holding huge sales with bigger-than-usual reduc- tions to help generate busi- ness,” she said. Preparing for the spring sea- son, Orrico shopped with a budget even with last year for “updated classics, with a femi- nine side.” She bought knee- length flirty skirts by Cynthia Steffe and Ruth, dresses by Nell and capri pants with wider legs and new prints from Trina Turk. She also ordered fashion jeans in medium rises and a variety of washes from Citizens of Humanity and James Jeans. Preppy looks will be “bigger than ever” this spring, said Mary Osiason, owner of the Pink Palm boutique in Tampa, Fla. Osiason said business had been uneven this fall, partly attributable to the effect of the weather on Florida’s economy. She project- ed sales even with last year. She bought capris in whimsi- cal prints by C.J. Laing, colorful palazzo pants and skirts at Trina Turk, and dresses with DIVA Awards Special Occasion ATLANTA — The DIVA Awards, held Oct. 14 at the Capital City Club downtown, honored design and retail winners in nine special occasion categories. About 320 people attended the event, which for the first time fo- cused on the special occasion cat- egory, an area that AmericasMart Est. ’01 has emphasized through its “First Look” show. The winners in the Designers category were Jovani for Prom, Landa Designs for Pageant, Maggie Sottero Bridal for Bridal, Mori Lee Bridal for Bridesmaid, Montage by Mon Cheri for Mother-of-the-Bride, Malis-Henderson for Accessories (Headpieces), Touch Ups by January 9-11, 2005 Benjamin Walk for Accessories (Shoes), La Femme Fashion for Javits Center, Manhattan Special Occasion/Women and Cupid’s Collection by P.C. Mary’s Bridal for Flower Girl. In the Retailers category, win- ners were Bride Beautiful in Atlanta 700+ Lines of Immediate Spring/Summer RTW and Accessories for Retailer of the Year, Bridal; Frills Sunday-Monday 9am-5pm, Tuesday 9am-5pm ’N Fancies in Statesboro, Ga., for Retailer of the Year, Prom; Legends buyer: 800-358-7768...exhibiting: 877-907-3263...www.fameshows.com in Roswell, Ga., for Retailer of the Year, Special Occasion; Cinderella’s Closet in Lilburn, Ga., for Rising Star of the Year, and Bella Boutique in Knoxville, Tenn., and Sheppard AccessoriesTheShow, Moda Manhattan and FAME are properties of Business Journals, Inc. Unlimited in North Myrtle Beach, S.C., for Special Retail Recognition. 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Knitwear in Style

Jax’s silk, nylon and Lycra spandex cardigan.

Oscar’s acrylic shell with rosettes.

H Hilfiger’s cashmere long-sleeve top with silk sash.

Dockers’ cotton zip cardigan.

Color My World NEW YORK — Whether shown in stripes or embellished with blooms, spring’s new crop of knits has one thing in common: rainbow hues perfect for any sunny day. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: MARINA M./NEW YORK MODELS ERICKSEN; MODEL: MARINA M./NEW YORK KYLE PHOTOS BY

12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

Knitwear in Style A better- priced knit from from Laura San San Remo Chases a Young Miss America Remo. DALLAS — Laura San Remo, a bet- began offering trendier styles. For also increasing trunk show busi- the line to reach out to younger ter-priced knit sportswear label, is spring these include: wider pants, ness and this year dressed all 53 customers. “Women bring their chasing younger customers with crocheted sweaters, more fitted Miss America contestants when daughters and sometimes grand- more trends and a marketing cam- jackets and feminine trims such they toured Washington. We cus- daughters to the shows. We’re paign that has spotlighted Miss as ribbons, bows and embellish- tom-knitted red, white or blue out- now doing up to 10 trunk shows America contestants. ment. Wholesale prices range fits for each contestant.” per month,” said Metrick. The $20 million brand is pro- from $40 for a crocheted tank top Metrick said associating Laura It’s not unusual for the line to duced at the company’s knitting to $150 for a short zip-front jacket. San Remo with the Miss America sell 300 pieces per trunk show, mills in Miami Lakes, Fla., and “We’re marketing the line to pageant was part of the compa- according to Metrick, who added has more than 500 midtier appeal to women ages 18 to 70,” ny’s marketing tactic to gain that some of Laura San Remo’s department and specialty store said Harry Metrick, vice president younger customers and inspire retail accounts generate up to accounts, including Dillard’s and national sales manager, from younger women to check out the $100,000 annually in sales. and Nordstrom. Laura San the company’s showroom at line at retail. ABC last week Next year, the company hopes Remo is a division of Laura FashionCenterDallas. “The infu- dropped the Miss America pag- to expand internationally and is Knits, owned by Joseph Feurer. sion of fashion trends into the line eant, leaving it without a TV out- in talks to sell the line to retail- In a bid to attract a younger fol- is helping to push sales ahead by let for the first time in 50 years. ers in Canada and England. lowing, Laura San Remo this year 15 to 20 percent this year. We’re Trunk shows have also helped —Rusty Williamson Sam Little’s 1412 Broadway, Suite 1108, New York, N.Y. 10018 • 212-840-3838 Luxe Start NEW YORK — Bergdorf Goodman isn’t just after MICHAEL PERRY ATLANTA women with a taste for luxu- 404-681-1945 ry fashions — it also wants to BUTCH SMITH dress their kids. CAROLINAS Enter Sam Little, a chil- 910-892-6540 dren’s knit company new to SHERRY GARNER the scene this year. Sam FLORIDA 251-980-6865 Little, based here, had a trunk DOUG HILFICKER show at the store last month, CHICAGO where shoppers snatched up 847-692-4778 sweaters for the little ones up PENN ASSOCIATES to six years old that could be NEW ENGLAND UPSTATE NY customized in upward of 48 800-700-3497 color combinations. PAT NICHOLS About 38 sweaters were DALLAS 210-805-9061 sold over the two days, ac- cording to a spokeswoman JOHN FRESH MID-ATLANTIC for Best & Co., which oper- 610-696-3017 ates the children’s shop in LIZ SCARFF Bergdorf ’s. For children’s JACKSON, MS 601-957-1501 sweaters, which retail for SUE SOMMERS $168 to $248, she noted: PUERTO RICO “That’s a good reaction for 787-727-2313 the first time out.” The collection is also sold at Best & Co.’s store in Greenwich, Conn., Shoofly in New York’s TriBeCa neigh- borhood and Io E Tu on the Upper East Side. “All the sweaters are hand- knit, literally, with two nee- dles,” said founder and design- er Sandra James Constantine, who noted that some products in the market labeled as “hand-knit” are constructed using some machinery. The line includes two- pocket and doubled-breasted cardigans, a turtleneck and a hoodie, as well as accessories. “There’s nothing that is this luxurious for children, nothing that is this close to your grandma or aunt or mom knitting for you,” she said. The sweaters are crafted of English wool by home- based knitters in Scotland. Each sweater comes with a card that’s signed by the knit- ter. For the warmer months, the New York-based firm is producing a line in cotton.

The Farnsworth, a seed-stitch, double-breasted luxe cardigan from Sam Little. WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM

international education manag- er of Comfort Zone spas. “Many people today want a spa ‘experi- ence,’ but they also want to see Russian Beauty: Firms Looking to Grow results. So we need to make sure we give them treatments that PARIS — European beauty firms brands because they are consid- looking for and what pharmacists look for was discussed at length work so they will be happy with are looking east for growth. ered too “risky”: Staff would need understand they need.” in a series of standing-room only the results.” Eastern Europe — Russia, in training to become familiar with These discussions took place seminars on the global spa mar- A series of new initiatives was particular — is a burgeoning the products, which must also be at the second annual Cosmeeting ket. Three of the 10 conferences also launched at the show, such as beauty market, while French good enough to be recommended beauty trade show here, held hosted by Cosmeeting focused on the Beauty Challengers Awards, a pharmacies are presenting in- by a medical professional. Sept. 22 to 24, which attracted the spa business, their partner- competition that rewards the most creasing challenges for little- On the other hand, pharma- more than 12,500 visitors. In ad- ships with hotels, and their creative niche brands. Winners known niche brands, said speak- cies remain a potentially lucra- cross-cultural variations. were Institut Tres Bien, Viaggio, ers at a recent conference here. tive outlet for cosmetics distribu- Panels of industry profession- Fermes de Marie and Doux Me. In Russia, evidently, luxe is tion, particularly in skin care and als discussed, debated and dis- Cosmeeting 2004 also intro- more. The country, said Anna sun products. Sophie Kerob, man- BEAUTY BEAT sected every aspect of the busi- duced other projects designed to Dycheva, vice president of Expo- aging director of Direct Medica, ness — from the physical design bring those in the business closer MediaGroup Staraya Krepost, is said most French women seek ad- dition to the conferences, the of spas to whether foreign treat- together. They include the Beyond now Eastern Europe’s largest vice when making such purchas- event showcased a range of prod- ments, such as Ayurveda, can suc- Beauty Lab, a think tank of indus- market for beauty products with es and would therefore go to ucts and services supplied by 750 cessfully be imported or exported. try professionals organized to pro- $5.4 billion in sales last year, a 20 someone they trust, such as their companies worldwide, from start- “The most important thing is mote fresh strategies on product percent gain over the prior year. local pharmacist. Still, Kerob cau- ups to the long-established. to do what you do best and love development, marketing, commu- “Quality is the priority for tioned that there is still “a gap be- As well, the pervading ques- best; you must be true to your- nications and other services. Russian consumers now,” said tween what female customers are tion of what beauty consumers self,” advised Elizabeth Thomas, — Jennifer Joan Lee Dycheva. “So the trend is to- ward more expensive products. Luxury products are booming and niche products are now starting to emerge.” Although giant distributors such as Sephora have already made headway into the market — the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned chain opened its second Russian outlet in June — Dycheva said there is still potential for further growth, particularly in the areas of color cosmetics and hair care. The growing popularity of niche brands in Russia was fur- ™ ther developed by Igor Yakovlev, STYLEMAX commercial director of cosmet- ics distributor MB-Impex Group, who said the country was “on the FALL 2005 verge of a niche-brand boom.” His firm, which distributes brands MARCH 19-22, 2005 such as Thalgo, Valmont, Nuxe and Nickel, is now targeting non- traditional customers such as men, children and the retired. Another conference revealed, however, that lesser-known brands face difficulties when dis- tributed through pharmacies in France. The conference focused on the risks and difficulties of distributing beauty products in EXPERIENCE FASHION. pharmacies based on a recent market study of nearly 900 phar- OVER 4,000 OF THE NATION’S macists here, conducted by TOP LINES. THE MERCHANDISE MART CHICAGO Direct Medica. The report revealed that more than 40 percent of pharmacists EXPERIENCE CONVENIENCE. would not stock new beauty ONE EASY-TO-SHOP SHOW FLOOR, DISCOUNTED HOTEL AND TRAVEL RATES Escada Names EXPERIENCE EXCITEMENT. VP of U.S Retail ATTEND FASHION SHOWS AND ENJOY MARKET PARTIES NEW YORK — Gena Davis has been named vice president, EXPERIENCE MORE. retail operations at Escada (USA) Inc. She succeeds Paul Lechlinski, who left in June. NEW ACCESSORY AND Davis will be responsible CONTEMPORARY RESOURCES for the overall sales and opera- tions of Escada’s 17 full-price PREMIERING AT STYLEMAX boutiques and 12 outlet stores in the U.S., including manage- ALWAYS GROWING ment of in-store personnel, ALWAYS NEW store renovations and open- ALWAYS THE ULTIMATE EXPERIENCE ings. She reports to Lawrence C. DeParis, president and chief operating officer of Escada THE MERCHANDISE MART, CHICAGO (USA) Inc. For discounted hotel and airline rates, Most recently, Davis was log on to our Web site or call Mart vice president of operations at Travel Services at 800.528.8700. Dolce & Gabbana U.S.A. Inc. from February 2002 to March For more information or to register for 2004. Earlier, she held man- STYLEMAX, visit our Web site or call agement posts in corporate re- 800.677.6278. tail operations at Calvin Klein Inc., Giorgio Armani Corp., www.merchandisemart.com Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Tommy Hilfiger U.S.A. Inc., among others. 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM High German NEW YORK — Katharina Sieverding, whose new show at P.S.1 opened Monday, has an interesting fan base for an obscure art photographer from Düsseldorf: She has collab- orated with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, and Mario Testino reported- ly collects her work. And while she hasn’t yet achieved cult status among the vast ma- jority of fashion photographers, Sieverding does exert a quiet influence on the field. “There is nothing better around. Period,” van Lamsweerde said of Sieverding in the fall 2004 issue of V. Some so-called high artists might bristle at that sort of praise coming from a com- mercial counterpart, but Sieverding enjoys the attention. “I love it when [my work] was or is an influence for some of these professionals,” she says. “Fashion is influencing all of us, so why not?” The P.S.1 show, which focuses primarily on Sieverding’s large-scale self-portraits from the late Sixties and Seventies, features pieces in which the artist’s face is melded with others in a process Sieverding developed long before computers were commonplace, using only analogue technologies. “She found a way to have a political and spiritual message and to use her face to do it,” van Lamsweerde told WWD. “She would use herself to convey another message, to not talk about beauty only. Arts She would transform herself, by combining herself with her hus- band to create a new human being. She was the first one to print on this large scale. They were really quite macho pieces.” “I was of course influenced more by films [at that time],” says Sieverding. “Mae West movies, the Chaplin movies, Fassbinder, & Images from Katharina Sieverding’s show at P.S.1. Eisenstein. I was not that much influenced by the traditional art People photographers….I worked a lot with a motor camera to get this kind of filmic idea and structure. You could take many many pictures in sec- onds. I tried to do photographic works that functioned like film. That was also part of [my decision to use] this monumental size.” Pieces in the exhibit range from 3 feet square to 10 feet by 15 feet. “I tried to break through the conventional size of photographs,” says the quiet and thoughtful Sieverding, who tends to avoid eye contact. “In those years, as a female artist, it was also a political statement….Even the use of gold dust on the skin [used in one of her portraits] was to extinguish the definitions of age, sex and race.” “From a fashion point of view, she looked amazing in the early Seventies pieces,” says Lamsweerde, who with Matadin, recently photographed Sieverding in Paris for V. “My favorite piece of hers [titled V/76] is a picture of her like someone takes when you’re on holiday. She’s wearing Mexican jewelry and a scarf and a hat. She looks like a very rich Western woman who wears native garb, and she juxtaposed it with a pho- tograph of a Chinese field worker. The contrast was just really striking in many ways — the size, the political concept of it, her beauty, the ostentatiousness of her look.” “What I love about fashion is this kind of global style,” says Sieverding, who herself favors all black ensembles and little makeup save a shock of red lipstick and her slicked back auburn hair. “To use elements of this culture and that culture — that’s no longer just open to a certain level of people….For me, fashion is a part of the cultural and art world. Even what you wear, it’s a kind of communication.” — Sara James

“Science is mind-numbingly boring,” says Griffith, “Sassafras,” 2001. who had wanted to study Third World infectious dis- eases. “Physical research in genetics is incredibly la- Fall Fashions borious and repetitive. I was juggling two lives. I NEW YORK — “I’m the luckiest bastard on the plan- needed to make a decision.” et,” says Christopher Griffith, sitting at a table in his He did. Four months before earning his PhD, bright Williamsburg, Brooklyn, photo studio. He Griffith traded petri dishes and bacteria for a takes a few drags off a cigarette and stubs it out be- Linhof camera. fore repeating the exercise a few minutes later. Then Things moved slowly in London, so Griffith moved he begins pulling out boxes of his older work to illus- to Paris. His work caught the eye of Jenny Capitain, trate the trajectory of his career. then fashion director of French Vogue, and his ca- Griffith, who once subsisted on a diet of potatoes reer took off. and baked beans during his lean early years as a “I developed a technique for fashion,” he says. fashion photographer living in London, is now sought “My fashion work wasn’t about the girl. I felt that 95 after for advertising work by designers, beauty com- percent of fashion photography pushed the same panies, airlines and banks, among other industries. buttons. There’s a lot of adoration and a lot of guilt. I Meanwhile, his recognition as an art photographer wanted to try to push different buttons. What is reali- continues to grow. ty and what’s not?” “Fall,” his new book (Power House), has just been His fashion work plays with depth perspective published, and a corresponding exhibition of photos and spatial relationships. In one whimsical black- from the book opened last week at the Power House and-white shot from a fashion story, a model is hold- Gallery on Charlton Street that runs through Nov. 20. ing an inch-thick ribbon that appears to get wider Griffith sees things a little differently from most and wider as it stretches toward the foreground until people. By isolating his subjects from their environ- it looks larger than life. Another, of a model standing ment with white scrims and drapes, he makes utili- in a manhole, looks like it was cut and pasted on tarian and industrial objects look graphic and archi- white paper or digitally engineered. Griffith actually tectural. Even his fashion images are carefully com- built a huge backdrop behind the model and covered posed like still lifes with models treated as objects. the street around the manhole with white fabric. The idea for “Fall” came to Griffith about a year But by 1998, Griffith was getting restless, so he ago when he saw some Virginia creeper crawling up walked away from the lucrative fashion work to start the wall of his brownstone. The leaves, he says, a book called “States.” Griffith and a team of five seemed to be glowing from within. Griffith pho- traveled highways and back roads across America in tographed the leaves to similar effect by lighting a Winnebago shooting faded churches, abandoned them from behind using the natural light that filling stations, down-and-out motels and other for- streams through his studio window. gotten icons that might be seen along Route 66. “The more I got into the leaves, the more they became an obsession,” he says. While the photos in “States” are as far as you can get from the glamorous cult of “The leaves had to be humidified and then they had to go into coolers and into the fashion, they’ve resonated with the fashion industry. Kate and Andy Spade hired fridge. I shot 400 leaves.” Griffith to shoot the fall Kate Spade ad campaign based on what they saw in The 42-year-old, Canadian-born photographer majored in science at McGill “States”; calls came from Bottega Veneta and Etro. He also has projects in the works University in Montreal. He gravitated toward a group of artists, architects, painters with Aveda, Kenneth Cole and Deutsche Bank. and models who inspired him to take some photography courses. A few years later, “I’m not the highest-paid or most fabulous photographer,” he says. “I’m on the tip while pursuing a PhD in biochemistry in London, a young designer he met asked of everybody’s tongue, but at the end of the day, I’m doing a career I really love.” him to shoot her fashion for a catalogue. It was just enough to whet his appetite. But, like anybody creative, he’s not without some degree of angst. “I’m very criti- For a while, Griffith’s worlds of academia and a burgeoning photography career cal of my work and very proud of it,” he says. “I’m a complete odd mixture of self- overlapped as beautiful models paraded through the sterile research lab piercing deprecation and arrogance.” the academic hush with the click of high heels and chatter. — Sharon Edelson The Hottest Collection of the Year!

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For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p., group publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Coach Sees Room to Grow Continued from page one and will feature rhinestone buckles. most productive stores, such as Copley Square in Boston established a lane between the moderate segment and Meanwhile, both domestic and international and South Coast Plaza in Southern California, also will the luxury accessory brands which we termed ‘accessi- expansion remain a key focus for Coach, be expanded in 2005 to add a total of 14,000 square feet, ble luxury.’” with five retail and five factory stores or more than 3 percent, to Coach’s total full-priced He cited strong sales of handbags and women’s opened during the first quarter. In selling space, Frankfort said. Total capital expenditure small leather goods in the quarter, adding that Japan, four stores were opened and six in fiscal 2005 is seen at more than $85 million, Coach Coach’s U.S. branded women’s accessories were expanded. At the end of the chief financial officer Michael Devine said on the call. business is still “experiencing an quarter, Coach’s total store count was Regarding the remodeling of the flagship in New York, unprecedented level of growth this year.” Coach’s Madison 179 retail stores and 81 factory stores in Frankfort said the location will close in January and will The company Tuesday also forecast Satin Clutch. the U.S., and 103 stores in Japan. reopen in the summer as an 8,750-square-foot store. “The both second-quarter and full-year Coach plans to open at least six more new design will restore the space to its original landmark earnings ahead of analysts’ estimates U.S. retail stores before the holidays. In heritage while providing a modern, classic store and detailed new store and holiday Japan, four retail stores will open, environment to enhance the brand and showcase our product expansion strategies. including what will be its first flagships in pinnacle product,” said Frankfort. “We’re increasing the Plans include a 2,000-square- Osaka and Sendai. first floor on 57th Street and we are increasing the foot expansion of Coach’s Looking to fiscal 2005, Coach expects to second floor on both Madison and 57th Street.” flagship at 57th Street and add a total of 20 to 25 retail stores in the In Japan, at least 10 stores are slated to open in the Madison Avenue in New York, U.S. Some of the units will be in markets next year. Roughly 15 of Coach’s most productive shops in the addition of 100 U.S. retail that the company feels can generate fuller Japan also will be expanded, which will add about 14,000 stores in the next four to five price points. At least nine of the company’s square feet, or 11 percent, to its retail base, Frankfort years and the Nov. 1 launch of its first said. The expansion is expected to help sales in Japan lifestyle evening collection at prices 20 to increase by at least 25 percent in the 30 percent higher than its core concepts. calendar year to $355 million. In the three months ended Oct. 2, Coach Riding Strong Coach sees second-quarter earned $67.7 million, or 35 cents a share, versus $42.3 earnings of 64 cents on sales of at million, or 22 cents, in the year-ago period. Analysts had Coach outlined 10 key concepts and items for the holiday season. Collectively they least $505 million. Analysts are been calling for a profit of 33 cents in the latest quarter. are expected to represent about 50 percent of business in the second quarter. expecting earnings of 62 cents Net revenues increased 33.2 percent to $344.1 million, with sales of $506 million. from $258.4 million in last year’s comparable quarter. By 1. New takes on Legacy Duffel handbags that “were inspired by iconic Coach styles The company earned 50 division, direct-to-consumer sales were $175 million, up and reinterpreted into modern, sophisticated silhouettes,” according to Michael cents in the year-ago 30.6 percent, and indirect sales rose 36.3 percent to $169 second quarter. Tucci, Coach’s president of North American retail. million. Sales in Japan increased 30 percent in constant currencies. Overall same-store sales rose 15.1 percent, 2. Smaller handbags — called Demis — in new shapes, such as the Soft Demi. with retail stores reporting a 16.8 percent increase and 3. Soho Small Hobo and Small Flat Hobo handbags in different fabrics and Lurex Signature Demi. factory stores seeing a 13.5 percent rise. colors, from Mini Signature to suede. Mike Tucci, president of Coach’s North American retail division, said strong sellers in the quarter were the 4. Gallery Totes in the classic, larger size, a Signature Wave style and a smaller size company’s Soho Mini Signature leather and suede collection, in suede featuring perforated design detail. Chelsea leather collection and Limited Edition pieces. 5. Madison: Coach’s first lifestyle evening collection, which will include handbags, Tucci said the company has 10 concepts and items in accessories, hats, scarves, gloves, shoes and outerwear. Launches Nov. 1. place for holiday that he expects to make up roughly 50 percent of the Coach’s overall business in the second 6. Classic and Mini Signature wallets in several colors. quarter. Holiday floor sets will be set up in stores on Nov. 7. Wristlets in core and novelty fabrics. 22, and Tucci said there will be a front table change in all stores in mid-December to freshen stores and drive traffic. 8. Watches featuring the Gallery interchangeable Bezel model. Tucci also revealed Coach’s new lifestyle evening 9. Scarves in a range of colors and fabrics. collection, called Madison, which is set to launch next Monday. The line will include handbags, accessories, 10. Gloves with contrast stitching and proprietary hardware. hats, scarves, gloves, shoes and outerwear in rich satins Avenue Realigns Sights on Plus-Size Market Montblanc to End Feud By Meredith Derby help the chain grow to about 1,000 stores. “Either you change or you go out,” said NEW YORK — Montblanc North America LLC and NEW YORK — The women’s plus-size mar- Benaroya, referring to a defining moment when he A.T. Cross Co. may be on the brink of ending their ket isn’t underserved, said Raphael woke up one morning and realized he didn’t like ink feud. Benaroya, president of the specialty chain anything in the Avenue stores. According to an order issued on Oct. 21 by Avenue, it’s just not well served. So Benaroya brought in an ex-Federated Judge Harold Baer Jr. of the U.S. District Court, “I don’t see any plus-sized women walk- Department Stores designer, Joann Fielder, who Southern District of New York, Montblanc and ing around naked,” Benaroya said in a started as the company’s chief design officer six Cross have agreed to negotiate a settlement in a discussion shortly before introducing a months ago. Fielder is redesigning Avenue’s spate of case regarding Cross’ Penatia line of ink refills. sample of Avenue’s new spring and sum- entirely proprietary merchandise, saying at a recent According to the order, the companies have mer assortments Tuesday at a company preview that, when she joined Avenue, the retailer’s until Nov. 1 to reach a settlement before the store here on Third Avenue. Rather, he fashions were a bit off trend. She conceded that the case proceeds. said, while there are plenty of apparel company still has to “play a little catch-up.” The companies could not be reached for comment. choices for plus-sized women, very few Nonetheless, certain of the outfits displayed at In the original complaint, filed Aug. 5, retailers serve her correctly with a variety the preview had an aggressive flair, including long, Montblanc, a subsidiary of Swiss luxury giant of fashionable clothes, shoes and acces- lean shorts in soft colors that fall to just below the Richemont, took issue with the packaging of Cross’ sories from career to casual to lingerie. A spring knee and several tastefully designed floral patterns, Penatia ink refills, which feature the Montblanc That diversification for women’s sizes looklook emphasizing “the feel of the tropics,” in both shirts logo in large bold letters three times on the front. 12 to 32 is precisely Avenue’s main goal. and skirts. Spring tops feature spandex knot-cut Montblanc contends the packaging was deliberate- And what further differentiates Avenue’s from shirts and double- and triple-layer mesh shirts. Most ly meant to mislead buyers into believing the concept, Benaroya said, is that the mer- Avenue. tops feature certain varieties of embellishments, refills were sponsored by the company. chandise is designed with the attitude — such as beads, lace trims and embroidery. Apparel Background information provided in the com- not necessarily the size — of its target customer foremost price points run from $15 to $100. plaint indicated that lawyers representing in mind. Core customers are seen as aspirational, inde- Other new spring fashions include cropped pants for the Montblanc sent Cross a cease- and-desist letter in pendent and confident. While obviously size plays a part in workplace that come in four colors and slimming, long, full- November 2003. A little more than two weeks merchandise designs, “we address fashion first, size last,” length trousers. Shades of pink and lavender are expected to later, Cross responded, saying it was in the Benaroya said. remain popular colors going into spring, and fabrics such as process of changing the packaging so the The Avenue brand is owned by the publicly held com- bouclé will add texture to outfits, Fielder said. Montblanc logo would only be used once. Those pany United Retail Group Inc., formerly a unit of The Benaroya also touted Avenue’s undergarment line, called and other changes, said Montblanc, were never Limited, now Limited Brands Inc. In the second quarter Avenue Body, as a one-of-a-kind offering for the plus-sized carried out. ended July 31, United Retail posted a loss of $1.6 million, woman. Terri Meichner, senior vice president of Avenue According to Cross’ annual filing with the or 12 cents a share, on a total sales decrease of 3.3 percent Body, said the company’s “shapewear” garments — includ- Securities and Exchange Commission for 2003, the to $101.3 million. That compared with a loss of $4.2 million, ing popular seamless panties called Cheeky’s — currently Penatia line of products was developed as part of or 33 cents, in the year-earlier period. has nine items and four more will be available in spring. a new strategy to enter the under $10 market. The now 550-unit Avenue brand was formed when United Avenue Body price points run from $15 to $32. Montblanc’s original lawsuit sought redress on Retail converted stores from two other plus-sized retailers, In the end, Avenue demonstrates that plus sizes for seven counts, including trademark infringement Size Unlimited and Lerner Woman (both owned at that time women have come a long way — from muumuus and poly- and false advertising. The company also sought a by The Limited), to Avenue stores in 1991. Today, Avenue is ester, as Benaroya noted — to flattering floral designs and permanent injunction and an unspecified amount relaunching its whole concept, which Benaroya hopes will even shorts. in compensatory damages. —Ross Tucker WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 17 WWW.WWD.COM WWD West Star Wars: Designers, Stores Seek Exclusives By Nola Sarkisian-Miller LOS ANGELES — For Joyce Azria, the young designer behind the contemporary brand Joyaan that is worn by celebrities such as Oscar winner Mira Sorvino, last month pro- duced both a dream and a dilemma. Azria was inundated with orders from top retailers at New York’s Fashion Coterie show. Hedging her bets, she took all of them, and now she’s facing the headache-in- ducing music. Three of the stores are within a two-block stretch on chic Robertson Boulevard here, where it’s a no-no to sell to more than one account. “Retailers can fight like cats and dogs,’’ said Azria, 23, the daughter of BCBG founder Max Azria. “One may say I wrote it at 11 a.m. and another will say they wrote it at 2 p.m. How do you choose? My dad gave me great advice. He asked where I want to be in five years and choose partnerships and strategic alliances that will get you there.” With the growing importance of specialty boutiques and the booming contempo- rary category — among the best-selling in apparel and the focus of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week here — retailers and designers are confronting the issue of the exclu- sive: the deal giving stores the sole right to carry a line for a specific period or within a certain geographic area. Areas like Los Angeles’ Robertson and Melrose districts and Manhattan’s SoHo are flashpoints because of the concentration of stores on trendy thoroughfares and the rise in the contemporary business. Los Angeles adds the celebrity factor to the mix, with retailers such as Kitson and Jacqueline Jarrot, where Paris Hilton bought 10 ribbed tanks with sequined shoulder straps by Joyaan. “It’s become more of an issue in Los Angeles, which has become the cradle of lots of brands and even international brands,” said Albert Dahan, owner of the L.A- based sportswear line Da-Nang. The stakes are high. A new line can rocket to acclaim or flame out based on whether it’s widely distributed or whether it lands in key stores like Fred Segal and Madison here. Conversely, a boutique may lose cachet if it misses out on the top lines. “When I launched my line, I knew from the get-go that if I can’t get into key stores, my line won’t go anywhere,” said Moise Emquies, co-owner of Ella Moss, a two-year-old knit brand specializing in stripes, which will make its first ap- pearance today at fashion week in Los Angeles. Ella Moss has sought favor with retailers through exclu- sive promotions tied to causes and getting noticed by the fashion press. Fred Segal Fun in Santa Monica has sold more than 100 sweatshirts made by Ella Moss for the bene- fit of breast cancer awareness month that were then men- Above: Santa Barbara’s Blue Bee believes exclusives are key in a tioned in Lucky magazine. small, tight-knit community. Left: A retailer's clout with celebrities is “Exclusives attached to magazines…give us a whole set of one factor that influences retail distribution, said Joyce Azria, whose customers that normally don’t walk into our stores,” said Jackie tank was picked up by Paris Hilton at Jacqueline Jarrot. Brander, owner of Fred Segal Fun. What makes the sales dance so delicate is that there aren’t de- “That’s engaging in unfair business practices and putting re- finitive rules. Much of the decision-making relies on what brands a straint on trade,” said Jeffrey Kapor, an apparel attorney at store carries, how much space it will devote to a line and even whether Buchalter Nemer Fields & Younger. its sales reps will wear the product. Store demands may vary from a six- Ella Moss’ Emquies and others point out that the situation gets trick- month exclusive on a line to restricting its sale within a five-mile radius. ier when a good account expands into other territories where a line already A retailer may tell a manufacturer it wants the exclusive within a limited radius and sells to a retailer, creating conflicts and potential lost sales. the agreement is considered similar to a joint marketing effort. The practice might cross a “You can find yourself landlocked and your growth will be impeded because of early legal boundary when the retailer explicitly states which stores can’t carry the product. arrangements,” said Tadd Zarubica, president of Yanuk jeans in Los Angeles, which is on track to gross $25 million this year. One way to avoid clashes is by adding a new product line. The company’s newly launched U denim comes with a cheaper retail price point, opening new doors of distribution. To minimize conflict between retailer and designer, there is the option of having a New Brands Tap eBay to Boost Business Profile sales rep handle the negotiations. Some designers have no choice when their reps LOS ANGELES — Fledgling designers place has collaborated with New York crack the whip. or fashion brands face the challenge of designers such as Narciso Rodriguez and “I determine all distribution rights; distribution is up to me, not up to the line unless reaching customers beyond the retail- Diane von Furstenberg, and was intent they tell me their mother owns the store,” said Betsee Isenberg, whose Los Angeles ers that will take a chance on them. on striking up a venture with the Los showroom, 10-Eleven, includes Diane von Furstenberg, Joie and Vince. “Many times the It’s something Frances Harder, Angeles industry. lines don’t know if stores have credit, if they’re loyal or have screwed up in the past.” founding director of the nonprofit “The FBI is such a good place for us to Isenberg said one way to cater to sizable accounts, such as New York-based Scoop, Fashion Business Inc., is particularly start, while we help them with their mis- which has nine boutiques and plans to open a Chicago store next year, is to create ex- aware of as she consults and helps sion as an incubator for L.A. designers,” clusive merchandise for the client. Stefani Greenfield, co-owner of Scoop, said her guide new entrepreneurs said Allison Stern, category unique goods, including Joie for Scoop and Theory for Scoop, offer a win-win co- through the process of manager for clothing, shoes branding strategy. building business. Now and accessories for the San “At least 40 percent of what we do is exclusive to Scoop,” Greenfield said. “It gives Harder hopes that a part- Jose, Calif.-based eBay. the Scoop girl product that she won’t see at every dinner party and provides an outlet nership between her To mark the launch, a for a line in key cities, such as New York, Las Vegas and Miami.” group and online behe- runway show and party The practice also plays out in smaller communities on the rise and resort areas. In moth eBay that is set to will be held Thursday Santa Barbara, Calif., which has a resident population of about 92,000 and also lures begin on Thursday will evening at the Standard tourists, the tight market share makes competition even stiffer. give California compa- Downtown Hotel. Card- Marty Bebout, co-owner of Santa Barbara’s Blue Bee, Blue Bee Jeans and nies a boost. ona, along with Becca Honeycomb, said that some new designers — especially young denim designers — are “The idea is to have Swimwear, Glaza Clothing, easily wooed by a million-dollar order from a department store that may short change some kind of community Timoteo, Hanna Hartnell Bebout’s business. For example, he said a new jeans manufacturer this year reneged for our fashion companies and Sugar Moods will be on an exclusivity deal with Bebout and sold to a nearby department store. The consola- based here,” said Harder, showcased. tion was that Bebout would carry different styles of the line. noting the better-known “There’s access to a “We’ve invested tens of thousands of dollars in the line and we’re developing the brands initially partici- universal audience you brand and committing real estate to it but the damage is already done,” said Bebout, A sample online listing from a pating in the launch, a can rarely tap into unless whose stores carry Serfontaine, AG, Levi’s Red and Great China Wall. two-week auction benefit- Fashion Business Inc. auction. you do something like Entrenched and widely distributed denim brands, for their part, distinguish them- ing FBI and featuring designer lines this,” said Cardona, a former student of selves through a jump on special deliveries. David Cardona and Trina Turk, denim Harder’s during her time at downtown’s Seven For all Mankind, the contemporary denim giant with about $130 million in super label Von Dutch and actions sports Fashion Institute of Design & Merch- sales this year, staged a successful launch of its denim accented with Swarovski crys- lines Hurley and Split, among others. andising. tal appliqués on the back pockets at Barneys New York last month at a customer The online shop is intended to make Harder declined to estimate the poten- party. Barneys received the six-week exclusive on it, before Seven rolled out the prod- the wares of lesser-known brands such as tial revenue with the online store, rented uct to the rest of its accounts. Hanna Hartnell and Sugar Moods, along to FBI at a monthly rate of only $9.99. “This is one way we can give something back to our special accounts,” said Seven’s with other Los Angeles fashion, easily ac- “The store could become a big national sales manager Jennifer Highman. cessible to eBay’s 150 million registered source of revenue for FBI,” Stern said. As for Joyce Azria, there aren’t any easy answers in completing her distribution de- worldwide users. The Internet market- — Rose Apodaca Jones cision on Robertson Boulevard. “I’ve narrowed it down to two,” she said. “I guess I’m still doing some soul-searching.” 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004

VP Fashion Marketing/Merchandising (Los Angeles Based) District Manager (LA area) Allegro Mfg - Successful Los Angeles based International Fashion Handbag/Accessory Company seeks energetic PUREBEAUTY® Marketing/Merchandising professional to help handle Great career opportunity GLOBAL APPAREL GROUP with a growing retailer. Must growth. Experience in garments, accessories, or shoes have min 5 years proven BURBANK, CALIFORNIA required. Prepare and drive the activities of the sales force in success in specialty retail several product categories. Focus the energy of the design / environment. Salary based product development teams Prioritize projects, organize on experience. Bonus incen- Director Category, Jr’s/Women’s presentations and understand the market and our customers. tives, car allowance stock Provides category business vision and leadership, sets strategic direction and leads the category team in Lead activities that affect margins, pricing, timelines, Fabrics, options. Fax or email resume along consumer-focused activities to meet or exceed revenue targets, growth objectives and other brand initiatives. components and Asia sourcing. We sell to most major U.S. retailers in multiple classes of trade, and through our offices with salary history to: Strategize and develop new business opportunities. Analyzes account business performance, develops and imple- [email protected] or ments product strategies, merchandising and marketing plans to ensure that sales are maximized and marketing in London, Mexico City, Paris, Toronto, China and The Philip- pines that sell to major retailers worldwide. Please send fax 818.301.2679 objectives met. Develops strong relationships with licensees and key retailers to maximize commercial and brand resume and salary history to [email protected] Visit us on the web at opportunities. Manages account specific product initiatives, promotions, trade and consumer advertising, public www.purebeauty.com relations and in store events designed to maximize sell-in and sell-through of products. Builds strong team- oriented relationships with other key business units and/or global partners that result in new business and/or cross-promotional opportunities. Responsible for P&L, budget planning on an annual basis and quarterly revenue SCOTT-THALER ASSOCIATES forecasting. NATIONWIDE EXECUTIVE RECRUITERS •ART DIRECTORS- Swim & Service Apparel (CA) Sr. Category Manager, Wal-Mart •BUYER-Footwear (CA) •DESIGNER (S) - Missy/ Juniors Footwear& Sweaters (NY, Midwest) Strategic planning and management of the licensed Apparel business with Wal-Mart for Disney Consumer Prod- •DESIGN DIRECTOR - Men’s (Midwest) ucts Brands (Standard Characters & Winnie the Pooh). Analyze account business performance, and develop •KEYACCOUNT EXECUTIVE- Junior Footwear (NY) strategies to expand sales volume and identify new opportunities for growth that are aligned with Disney initiatives. •NAT’L SALES MANAGER- Moderate Missy Blouses & Sportswear (CA) Specific fiscal responsibility for a segment of the Wal-Mart DTR business for Apparel. Budget planning on an •NAT’L SALES MANAGER- junior footwear (NY) annual basis and quarterly revenue forecasting. Work with Wal-Mart and Disney Creative teams to develop •TEXTILE & CAD ARTIST/DESIGNER (Midwest, CA) •VICE PRESIDENT TREND/COLOR - Apparel (CA) compelling product that meets retailer needs while maintaining quality and character integrity standards. Support internal initiatives generated by Marketing and Retail teams. Regular travel will be required in this position. Don’t Just SETTLE for a job, Beauty Buyer when you can have a CAREER! PUREBEAUTY® Required Qualifications: Attn: Mary Oliva Fax: 213-312-9324, Tel: 800-968-1562 HAIR-SKIN-BODY • Bachelor’s degree and 7 - 10 years of related experience or Masters degree and 5 - 7 years of related exp. Email: [email protected]/http://www.scott-thaler.com Growing Los Angeles based retailer. 5+ years specialty buying experience in beauty Please E-Mail Resumes to: [email protected] arena. Must have great Subject: WWD Apparel negotiation skills & be able to build vendor relations. Salary based on experience. Full benefits package. Please Our custom design and manufacturing company is growing Fax or E-mail resume like we’ve never seen before! And to support this continuing along with salary history to: growth, we are always looking for creative and resourceful Fax 818-301-2679 people to join our hardworking team. We currently have the [email protected] In-house PR following positions available: Visit us at: Account Director / Sales www.purebeauty.com Representative Marketing Coordinator Wanted DENIM DESIGNER Full Charge Bookkeeper LA based designer denim For more information about our company, our available posi- label seeks in-house PR Koos Manufacturing, manufacturer of some of tions and our hiring process, visit our web site: Representative. Minimum 3 www. macher.com yrs previous PR agency expe- the top premium denim brands, is looking to rience preferred. expand our design team. We are currently Please fax resume and looking for talented seasoned denim designers references to: Girls Buyer 323-567-8340 or to fill both head designer & assistant designer Fresno, CA based Gottschalks Department Stores is seeking an experi- e-mail: [email protected] positions. Always dreamed of having access to enced retail buyer to join our team. Qualified candidates will possess one of the world’s finest denim manufacturing 2-3years buying exp in Childrens, Juniors or Womens Sportswear. Knowledge of private label and development/execution a plus. Marketing Manager Komarov is looking for facilities as your playground? We are eager to With over 60 stores & continued expansion expected, Gottschalks of- High-end Missy mfr in LA seeks Marking, Grading Technician add talent to our team. L.A. based company. fers excellent career growth & a comprehensive salary/benefits package. exp person to develop/manage on Tukatech system. Experience on Candidates should submit their resume to: sales promos, advtsg, e-commerce this system is required. Please fax resume: 323-567-8340 /Web site, in-house sales, C/S, Please fax resume or email to: Gottschalks, Director of Recruitment E-mail: [email protected] or fax (559) 434-4806 etc. Computer & garment exp a 213-244-7006 or Attn: HR Dept or E-mail: [email protected] must with department/ chain [email protected] stores/Specialty Btq contacts. Salary plus great benefits. E-mail: [email protected] www.gottschalks.com EOE or fax 213-747-2740

SKAGEN DENMARK •watches •accessories •home •office •gifts Leading Los Angeles is seeking qualified individuals and managers for the following positions: Sportswear Manufacturer •Sales• PATTERNMAKER Director of Sales - Reno, NV Seeking experienced individuals for: Business Development Manager - New York or Reno Tremendous opportunity to work with a well est’d women’s Account Executives - National Retail Accounts - NY or Reno Buyer/Planner apparel firm who’s seeking a Patternmaker with proficient International Sales Manager - New York or Reno Safety Coordinator Gerber experience for design/ production samples. Must be Customer Service fit expert and able to make first samples from designers’ •Product Management• Pre Production and Production Coordinators sketches. Also must manage small sample room, be highly Designer - New York or Reno organized and a team player. Salary negotiable with Product Development Manager, watches - Reno Privately owned, stable & professional excellent benefits. Product Development Mgr, accessories/leather goods - Reno company with great benefits. Box#M 1089 Relocation/Insurance/401K Benefits c/o Fairchild Publications Please email resume & references to: Email resumes to: [email protected] 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl [email protected] or fax to: 626-810-7939 New York, NY 10001 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 19

Corporate Denim High End Designer Showroom/ Sales Representative Road Sales Showroom Sales Full time west coast sales Well established, LA Based representative for high-end, mike & millie Executive Sales Representative showroom with multiple Well-established LA based advanced women’s collec- lines seeks sales rep with a tion. Requirements: At least High volume, 5th floor multi-line denim brand seeks showroom showroom, looking for experienced minimum of 3 years experi- sales rep with a minimum 2years experience in ence. Ideal candidate will garment sales. We offer an road rep, GREAT lines, GREAT salary of 3 years of experience. and GREAT benefits plus commission. have contacts with specialty Ideal candidate will have excellent salary, commis- retailers and be willing to sion and benefits package Submit resume to mike & millie contacts w/ specialty retailers at: [email protected] or travel. We offer an excel- and be willing to travel. Please fax resumes to: lent salary, commission and 213-747-7463 Fax: 213-228-1942 benefits package. Please fax resume and Please fax resume to: references to: 323-567-8340 213-624-8391 or email: [email protected]

Freelance Designer •Men’s: Denim & Knit 5yrs HEAD •Jr. Denim: 3yrs •Children’s Clothing+Graphics: 3yrs PATTERN MAKER Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. "Seeking to work w/ merchandisers" No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Developing, concepts, design, color, over- Major better dress mfr. in Call CLOTHES-OUT: see graphics, patterns denim wash, tech business for 25 years seeks (937) 898-2975 packs. In-house work avail. Merchandisers an experienced and knowl- email: [email protected] edgeable HEAD PATTERN MAKER. Must posses day to evening better dresses and suits imported. Must be organized with strong and JOBBER/EXPORTER decisive technical communi- We buy better goods. All categories, including fabrics. Immediate $$. cation skills, and able to Please call 212-290-2336 thrive in a fast paced envi- ronment. Computer literate such as e-mail and excel spreadsheets helpful.

Sublease - 4500 FT. w/ Terrace Fax resume attention HR: Great Showroom, 6 Offices 212-869-4011 South Facing Views - Move In Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043

Jamaica, Queens-Commerical ware- house for lease. 40,000 sq. ft. w/ approx 4000 sq. ft. a/c office space + Retail Planner/ loading docks. Racking system + many amenities. Call landlord 516-997-2442 Buyer Exciting opportunity availa- Customized Knitwear Design Studio ble for individual with 2-3 High-End Couture years experience in high-end Handknit Swatches, Samples, Production apparel. Responsibilities in- Brand Name Design Exp-No Minimum clude analyzing sales and Call 917-612-1094 stock performance; commu- nicating with stores and PATTERNS, SAMPLES, corporate management on Cut/Sew/Ship PRODUCTIONS business opportunities, Small or big lots. We do markers and All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. assortment needs, stock samples too. Call 973-266-0901 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. levels, and strategies by store to maximize sales and PATTERNS, SAMPLES, presentation. BS/BA and ex- cellent communication and PRODUCTIONS analytical skills required. Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Please fax or email resume and salary history to: Extraordinary Opportunity (212) 632-4322; CAD DESIGNER Designer responsible for hundreds of [email protected] Leading private label manu- millions of dollars in sales is seeking a EOE M/F 1411 B’dwy - Sublet to 6/30/05 strategic partner with financing and facturer seeks senior level 530 sq. ft • 4th Floor knowledge of women’s contemporary CAD Designer for woven 1 Month FREE Rent for Immediate market. Must have infrastructure in shirt division. Qualified Occupancy. Call: 212-719-3220 place for immediate start-up. Reply to: Box#M 1093 applicants should possess c/o Fairchild Publications Clothing Shop For Sale superior technical yarn dye COUNT YOUR CHICKENS 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl Wonderful opportunity, well established woven knowledge, strong Lower your rent. Fabulous affordable space. New York, NY 10001 (36 yrs.) women’s clothing, accessories 1,500-10,000 SqFt Call Allan Gallaway etc. in busy historic Grist Mile, located Growing Men’s and Women’s design and color sense. Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 in Victorian town of Milford, PA - Will Advanced U4IA experience help with transition if necessary. high-end apparel company Please call: (570) 296-2920 or hiring for the following posi- preferred. Photoshop / Email: [email protected] tions. Incredible opportunities Illustrator a plus. We offer a 1407 BROADWAY available in both our NEW creative environment with SHOWROOMS/OFFICES YORK Office and SOHO growth potential & excellent TREBOR MGMT benefits. Please fax resume Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 Miami Supervising Group retail store. Specializing in overseeing your production Sales and salary requirements to 488 Seventh Avenue for on-time quality and delivery! Design Director at: • TYE DYE• •GARMENT DYE• Retail Sales 212-329-3485 or E-mail LIVE/WORK • PIGMENT DYE• •EMBROIDERY• Small 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1575 Approved for ctl/mtl testing standards. RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH Visual Mdse [email protected] Large 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1795 All work in house. Quick sampling. Merchandising Wood floors. Hi ceils. Doorman. Immed. We also finish and ship. Jamie Nelson: Exclusive to the Fashion Industry 212-629-8694 - MON-FRI - NO FEE 954-336-3566; [email protected] Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 Competitive salary and com- Accounts Payable Clerk Nancy Bottali, Accessory 212-213-6386 prehensive benefits package. Major apparel company seeks organ- Showroom / Office / Retail Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Please email resume to: ized and detail-oriented bookkeeper. We find you space-best deal-no fee Patterns/Samples/Beading Knowledge of Solomon is a plus. Sublet 525 7th/ready Duplicates Cut & Sew Fax: 609-448-8248 [email protected] Must have excellent Excel skills. Garment Center Real Estate Full Service - Small Production www.raskinexecsearch.com EOE M/F Corporate experience is necessary. Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Fax resume 212-239-2766. 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004

Be a champion Come and join us - a successful and growing organization Texwood is a prestigious group, with apparel mfg, retail and Account Executive wholesale as major business. We are based in Hong Kong Seeking Department Store Account Executive. Minimum 2 with manufacturing plants in Southern China, retail and years experience working with department stores. Must franchise businesses are all over Greater China. We are have a core understanding of retail math. Candidate must committed to providing innovative design, world class product be well organized, energetic and self-motivated. Must have quality, and a source of pride for our people. We have excellent communication skills and knowledge of all current substantial establishments in Hong Kong and China which trends. Proficiency in Excel and Word a must. provide excellent job exposure and career opportunity. To build and share our success, we invite passionate, aggressive Retail Coordinator / Merchandiser and dynamic individuals to join us. Free People is looking for an East Coast Retail Coordinator. The position would be responsible for selling analysis, mer- FASHION DESIGN MANAGER chandising of product on selling floors, product directives (Based in Hong Kong) The Role and working with Retail Specialists and Floor Managers to • Responsible for the full range of men’s & ladies’ collection increase sales and conduct product seminars. All candidates of CASUAL WEAR and JEANS should have a minimum of 3 years experience in the field. • Lead a team to research fashion trend information and Please fax all inquiries to 212-302-8647 trend forecast. Or e-mail [email protected] • Prepare & present proposals on seasonal collection & image. The Person • Over 6 years of solid experience in fashion design. Casual wear design exp is a must, preferably with denim exposure. • To lead a team of 4 fashion/graphic designers, the candidate must have at least 3 years of managerial exp. • Preferably with a minimum of 3 years work experience for famous apparel brands. • Strong fashion sense, able to work under pressure and meet tight schedules. • Fluency in English. Ability in Chinese language is definitely an advantage. • Travel to China is required. We offer competitive remuneration package with career advancement opportunity. If you are interested, please send your resume with expected salary by mail to: Alice To, Corpo- rate HR, Texwood Plaza, 6 How Ming Street, Kwun Tong, Director of Retail Operations & Outlets Kowloon, Hong Kong; OR E-mail to: [email protected]. We are currently looking for a Director of Retail Operations Please visit our web site: www.texwoodapple.com for our and Outlets to join our expanding retail division. This high product information (Data collected will be used for energy individual will be responsible for the operational recruitment purpose only). aspects in all of our Full Price and Outlet stores as well as having direct responsibility for the Outlet division. This person will also be the project leader for all new store openings, IT based initiatives, and for driving sales and profit in the stores. The ideal candidate will have at least 10 years of related experience including multi-store retail management. In addition, this person should have excellent analytical and Richard Leeds International communication skills, and be organized, enthusiastic, Fast growing Ladies Apparel Co. seeks detail oriented, self motivated and flexible. motivated & hardworking people for following positions in Rapidly growing, fast paced sleepwear/daywear mfr looking for: Please fax resume and salary requirements to: our NYC office: 212-838-3483 or email Account Executive [email protected] SALES ASSOC: Minimum 3 yrs exp. Ladies moderate sports- Ideal candidate must have strong background managing dept wear missy & large sizes. store accounts & product development exp. Must have strong retail math & analytical background, org skills, self-motivation & DATA ENTRY/CUST. SVC: Order entry & follow-up w/various superior communication skills; proficient on Excel & Word. VP LOGISTICS types of cust incl/major retailers. AIM/EDI a plus but will Retail Analyst Exciting opportunity for motivated, high-achiever to join our train. Min 2 yrs exp req. management team and work closely with strategic business Ideal candidate will have 4-6 yrs exp & must have full units. Responsibilities include logistics, distribution and trans- SHIPPING ASST: Proficient in UPS & COD w/light billing. Su- understanding of all components of retail planning & analy- portation functions. Ideal candidate should have 10-15 yrs of pervisory exp in small whse in NYC w/knowledge in inventory sis. Must be able to manage retail/wholesale data to drive global distribution, logistics, transportation experience, strong control. business & focus on bottom line. Strong retail or planning negotiation and management skills, solid track record in high background in addition to superior excel & word are a must. SKU, heavy volume environment, proven experience in opening CHARGEBACK MGR:Will head AR dept, control & monitor Submit resume to: [email protected] and managing multiple distribution centers, and the capacity all chargebacks. Will need to report to senior management to or fax 212-696-8450 to handle national/international transportation networks. resolve all errors & dispute w/customers. Min of 5 yrs exp. Bachelor’s Degree is a plus. TECHNICAL ASSISTANT: Min. 5 yrs exp in measuring & grading Qualified candidates e-mail resumes with salary garments, be able to sketch, make comments & corrections to requirements to: [email protected] overseas factories. Must have knowledge of knits & wovens. Production Manager EOE Must be proficient in Photoshop & Illustrator. Established importer with broad and deep capabilities in ladies sportswear All applicants must be prof. in computer for all above positions. seeks an experienced production manager to support existing private label Pls send resume to: and branded businesses. The ideal candidate will have strong written and [email protected] or fax to 212-398-0032 verbal communication skills. 3 to 5 years product development, China based AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS sourcing, and business development skills are essential. We are a flexible and Live your Life highly entrepreneurial Hong Kong based company with strong financial and Join Our Team operational capability. We are offering an outstanding opportunity for the dynamic self starter who can help us unlock the value in our infrastructure. American Eagle Outfitters,the hippest and fastest growing PR/MARKETING MANAGER Email resume in strict confidence to: [email protected] brand in the industry, is seeking an Accessories Production Coordinator for our New York Design Center. BCBG Footwear •2-3 years previous accessories background Dynamic Footwear Company in Greenwich, CT •Entering & tracking PO’s is seeking an energetic individual with several RETAIL Apparel Staffing, Ltd. *PRODUCTION*DESIGN* •Follow-up on shipments years of public relations and marketing experi- Executive Registry *TECH DESIGN*GRAPHIC DESIGN* •Communication with buyers & vendors ence. Individual must be self motivated and will- Wants top RETAILERS looking for *MERCHANDISING* •Detail oriented and articulate See career listings @www.apparelstaffing.com the ultimate challenge. Use all your Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 •Computer literate ing to travel. We offer a comprehensive benefits package. skills and learn executive SEARCH. Qualified applicants should email resume with salary history to: Opportunities unlimited Must have STRONG RETAIL expe- ASSISTANT BUYER [email protected]. Only candidates selected for further rience in merchandising design or OPPORTUNITIES consideration will be contacted. EOE. Please send resumes to planning. Call/E-mail Diane or Ellen: (Apparel & Home) Women’s/ Home specialty catalog co. :[email protected] 201-587-1010 seeks self-motivated, high-energy pro- [email protected] fessionals w/ 3+ yrs. exp. to aid the buyer in development & management of merchandise category(s) from initial concept & planning through final sale. GROWING PAINS Fashion & merch. sense req’d, strong communication & numerical skills & Well established Branded and private label company continues Product Merchandiser (Ad # 153) Administrative Asst proficiency w/ Excel a must. A degree upward trend and seeks the following individuals with minimum SIGERSON MORRISON in fashion merchandising preferred. 3 years experience as follows: As the leader in contemporary design, we continue to grow Downtown NY shoe designer seeks Excellent compensation & benefits pack - and seek talented individuals to join our team. The Product super efficient team player with exp in age. For consideration please fax/ email 1st Pattern and Production Patternmakers fashion industry to assist busy sales & resume, including salary history to: Merchandiser will serve as a critical position within our company production depts. Strong communication/ Fax-(212)916-8320 or Must be fast, accurate, organized and able to work on dress- by communicating design’s vision to sales / customers, planning computer skills (Excel/FileMaker) a email - [email protected] es, shirts, jackets, pants, and suits. Must be able to handle must. Fax resume and salary require- visit us at www.newport-news.com customer buys, managing product projection & analyzing ments to 212-219-9034. high pressure and sometimes long hours. trends and product performance. Qualified candidates & www.spiegel.com Knitwear Technician MUST have a min. 5 yrs. wholesale fashion merchandising ASST TECH DESIGNER exp. w/ major company background. Entry level position for detail oriented, For knitted tops and sweaters - with backround and knowlege of Admin Since 1967 both domestic and impots with a trained eye for detailed fit. organized and exp. asst. tech designer, Fax ad # w/ salary history attn: Patricia (212) 764-6912 W-I-N-S-T-O-N with strong communication skills. We offer a great working environment and benifits. Please Must be able to follow through from APPAREL STAFFING development to production. Pattern fax your resume to Antonio 212 869 5356 DESIGN*SALES*MERCH making knowledge is a plus. or email to: [email protected] ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION Please fax resume to 212-730-2674 (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Attn: Evelyn WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 21

ASST TECH DESIGNER Catherine Malandrino DESIGN ASSISTANT DESIGNER EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES!!! Graphic Design Mens sportswear co. seeks assistant tech Technical Designer ULTRA PINK YOUNIQUE CLOTHING CO TAYLOR HODSON Freelance Graphic Designer designer w/ exp. using Web PDM, knowl- To handle fittings, develop & issue specs. Hot jr sportswear co expanding rapidly. Jr. sportswear mfr seeks a highly moti- Responsibilities include: sketching, Designers- Men’s Outerwear & Bottoms (75K) Aéropostale,Inc. is seeking a talented edge of garment construction and Must have min. 3 years exp. in overseas vated creative exp’d knit designer w/ 5 Men’s Knits (85K) measuring of GMTS. Pattrnmkg a production & knowledge of pattern correc- tech pack preparation, specking, fitting, years exp for our juniors import dept. freelance apparel graphic designer with and construction knowledge. Cad / Fabric & Trim Manager- Women’s Better (85K) specialty in athletics. Must be an expe- plus but not reqd. Computer skills in tions, grading, and garment construction. Must have import exp including Tech Designers- Women’s (75K) Micro Graphix Designer, Adobe Illustra- Photoshop / Illustrator a plus. Come sourcing fabrics. Excellent benefits. rienced and creative artist with strong Production Assistant grow with us!! Fax resume to 212-869- Freelance, Tech Designers, Design tor, Microsoft Excel, Outlook & Word reqd. To issue and approve cutting tickets. Fax resume: 212-764-0352 MAC/Illustrator & Photoshop skills. E-mail Resume w/ salary req to: 6191 or E-mail: [email protected] Assoc/Assts, Merchandising Assts, Fax resume to 646-485-5430. EOE/M/F Responsible for approving production Production Assts-positions avail NOW!!! [email protected] related invoices. Will order bulk fabric & trims, monitor fabric inventory, and Fax: (212) 924-1503 issue claims for production discrepancies. Design Assistant Design e-mail: [email protected] Fit Model Women’s specialty catalog co. seeks Size 4 w/ flexible work schedule. Body highly creative & motivated Design We’re seeking dynamic, talented ATELIER MANAGER measurements: bust=33-34", waist=26- Assistant to help create/interpret, professionals to join our ST. LOUIS FASHION FACULTY Individual with 3-5 years experience 27" and low hip= 36-36 1/2". execute & illustrate a unique product DESIGN TEAM.Weoffer an exciting, Private college seeks faculty for IMPORT TRAFFIC MGR needed to manage sample studio and Fax resumes to: 212-840-3630 assortment with high volume/low price fast-paced creative environment where Fashion Program. Ph.D. degree prefer- Importer seeks person to handle L/C act as liason between design and pro- Attn: Production dept. concentration. Excellent technical and you will work in partnership with our red, Master’s degree required, along neg., track overseas shipments, follow duction. Must have superior technical illustrative fashion drawings; strong merchants and overseas offices. We with significant industry experience. up with customs, freight forwarders & skills & knowledge of couture sewing computer knowledge (photo shop, illus- currently seek the following high- Knowledge of textiles, product develop- truckers, bill bulk shipments. Competi- and patternmaking. Needs to be ener- Controller/CFO trator, Quark, Mac). Full understand- energy individuals: ment, buying, visual merchandising, tive salary, medical & profit sharing. getic, highly organized with good man- ing of garment construction; high level merchandise planning and control. Fax resume to: 212-695-7548 Hi-end fast growing Apparel Luxury Co. Send resume to: Fashion Search, agement skills, and have an excellent seeks individual to oversee all financial communication and creative skills. sense for prioritizing. Textile Designer - Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road functions. Must have 7-15 in industry Excellent compensation & benefits pack - West Paterson, NJ 07424. JOBS JOBS JOBS Fax resume to 212-925-1264 or e-mail w/excellent acct’g. & analysis bkgrnd. Sportswear to [email protected] age. For consideration please fax/email Fax: 973-278-0080 *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men (CPA a +) Please E-mail resume to: Responsibilities include creating color *Designers-assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men resume, including salary history to: art work for prints, patterns, yarn dyes or Email: [email protected] [email protected] Fax-(212)916-8320 or Equal Opportunity Employment *Designer Junior Handbags-Hang w/ XOXO AVAILABLE and embroideries. You will also research *Patternmaker-Production-Gerber 8 email - [email protected] trends, approve layouts and prepare Growing Outerwear and Sweater Co. visit us at www.spiegel.com *Production coords - bilingual chinese SALES CONVERTER presentation boards, as well as commu- *Product coord liaison between design & prod Ladies/Girls Outerwear & Sweaters. Experienced w/Dye & Finishing Plants, nicate and collaborate with design, FIRST & PRODUCTION *Production:mgrs & coords & assists 3-5 yrs sales exp. with proven records. Imports/Exports & strong computer DESIGN ASSISTANT merchants and overseas. May include *Retail Planners - Analysts $Hi LOGISTICS skills. Progressive Midtown Co. with Working on woven design project from overseas travel. The successful candi- PATTERN MAKER *Sales assist or Assoc Showroom exp Must have 3-4 yrs exp. EDI, UPC. Capable pension benefits. Mail or Fax resume start to finish including specs, preparing date will have a Bachelor’s degree in Sportswear & dress co. seeks diverse *Sales Boys I-20-Hang w/ Sean John-Roccawear of handling imports over 20-30 Million. & salary history to: overseas follow-up, trim cards, fabric Design, as well as a minimum of 2 pattern maker with experience in *Technical Desgn&Assists&entrylevel PRODUCTION MANAGER Abe Levine / 212-563-7937 library and researching trims. Qualified years’ experience as a Textile Designer. jackets & dresses. Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) Must have 3-4 yrs exp. & possessstrong 519 Eighth Ave., New York, NY 10018 candidate must have an eye for trend, Must be detail oriented with strong Fax resume 212-302-5763 organizational & communication skills. creative energy and able to work in a fast organizational skills and computer Attn: Lynn Ability to work in fast paced environment. LUCERNE TEXTILES Inc. paced environment and meet deadlines. proficient in CAD; U4ia a plus. Strong JOHN BARRETT SALON E-mail: [email protected] 1-2 years experience required. communication skills a must. Administrative/Marketing positions Fax resume to: 917-510-9778 available for events, promotions and CUSTOMER Serv-9-5 hours/2+ yrs w/a APPLY NOW! Please send, fax or e-mail FIT TECHNICIAN rug or apparel mfr takign orders/deal corporate programs. The ideal candi- BILLING SPECIALIST your resume to: New Jersey apparel company seeks fit date should have excellent computer Fast paced apparel importer seeks organ- w/whse/complaints/be comp lit. $31-37K May Merchandising Company technician for sportswear. Must be Les Richards Agcy; Call (212) 221-0870 Design Associate skills, be highly organized and have ized individual with 3 years experience to Established ladies dress manufacturer Recruiter-Textile Designer able to fit, make comments & correc- the ability to work independently. oversee billing/ shipping. Candidate must seeks sseasoned, talented evening or 615 Olive Street tions and communicate by email to Flexible 4 day schedule is available. have strong communication / computer day wear designer . Private label and St. Louis, MO 63101 overseas factories. Candidate must Please fax all resumes to (212) 872-2635 skills (Word/Excel) and must be currently Customer Service/Relations product development experience is a Fax: (314) 554-7654 have 2 years experience & good com- working with an apparel billing system. Seeking energetic and vivacious person major plus . Excellent growth opportunity E-mail: puter skills. Pls fax resume to Denise Please email resume: with min 1 year experience to work Fax resumes to: HR ( 212) 944-2123 [email protected] 201-867-5563 Marker & Grader [email protected] with sales department. Responsible for MANUAL calling customers. Great growth potential! EOE Knowledge of Lectra a plus. Bookkeeper Fax resume to 212-371-0000 Please fax resume to 212-302-9325 or email: [email protected] Design/Design Assistant FREELANCE DESIGNER Costume jewelry co. seeks bookkeeper Jr. Sportswear Co. seeks highly creative Freelance designer- Children’s cloth- with 5 years experience working with a individual with excellent organization ing, girls & boys N/B to 4-6X/ 4-7 factor. Knowledge of quickbooks a must skills. Candidate must be exp. on Abobe Please email resume to: Fax resume & salary req to: 718 422 7584 MERCHANDISER/DESIGNER CUSTOMER SERVICE Photo & Illustrator. Varied responsibilities [email protected] Great oppty to be a part of one of the REPRESENTATIVE which include working closely with Mer- largest & most successful licensed apparel Bookkeeper/Operations chandiser. Excellent growth opportunity. mfr. We are looking for a motivated mer- NYC fashion importer. Must be Rapidly growing Apparel Company is Please fax resume to 212-869-2781 Director of Quality GERBER SYSTEMS MGR $80K chandiser to manage and grow existing strong in warehouse, shipping, seeking a Customer Service Represen- Attn: Cathy Train Staff on System & PDF categories from infants through plus sizes inventory control & charge backs. tative to work with major department Assurance and Control [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 (both genders). Must be computer literate Please fax resume to: (212) 764-7245 stores. Leading childrenswear company is (Mac) w/ excellent organizational, comm., Designer Asst - Outerwear seeking a high level, detail-oriented Di- &follow up skills. If you are a creative Manages orders from request to ship- Must be proficient in Illustrator and rector of Quality Assurance and Con- self starter seeking a great working atmos- Photoshop. Fax resume to: trol. The candidate should have a mini- GRAPHIC ARTIST Boys Designer/Artist ment. Maintains & updates our order Children’s apparel company seeks graph- phere, Fax resume to: 419-735-2773 Major childrenswear company seeks database. Interacts with sales, buyers, 212-868-9279 Attn: BET mum of 5 years experience in Quality Assurance and 2 years in children’s ap- ic artist w/ min 3 yrs exp. Must be proficient experienced boys designer to work in a production, order entry & import/ in Illustrator CS. Fax resumes to 212-279-3634 allocations to ensure timely fulfillment Artist - Childrenswear parel. The candidate will be responsi- team environment. Responsibilities 2 years experience in outerwear required. include designing boys line, creating & follows up on inquiries. ble for factory evaluations and Q.C. au- Must work on a Mac using Illus and Photo- dits, quality assurance procedures, ven- MERCHANDISER artwork and interacting with sample shop. Fax: 212-868-9279, Attn: ABC room. Must be proficient with MAC A minimum of 2+yrs exp in the dor compliance and quality assurance Movie Star, Inc. seeks highly motivated and have strong Photoshop and Illus- apparel industry required. Strong standards. This individual will work GRAPHIC ARTIST - STYLIST Merchandiser to create and merchan- trator skills. Great opportunity. knowledge of AS400 & Excel. with pre-production and testing proce- dise ladies and junior sleepwear/ Excellent interpersonal skills essen- Private label company seeks experienced Fax resume 212-239-2766. DESIGNER-COSTUME dures along with pre and post design loungewear. Qualified applicants must tial. Some college preferred. garment engineering. This position re- graphic artist to design for kids, missy have extensive experience in product HALLOWEEN quires extensive overseas travel. &plussize screen printed tees for mass development, sourcing and costing. Also, Please fax resume & salary require- market. Candidates must have an ex- must have the ability to identify and CAD Designer - FREELANCE ments to: (212) 869-5242, E-mail: World’s largest Halloween costume co Please e-mail your resume to: holt@ babytogs.com or fax to: cellent color sense, strong illustration maximize key items and fashion trends. Men’s/Women’sActive Wear Co. seeks a [email protected]. EOE M/F based in Queens seeks fashion forward skills and ability to spot trends. Macin- CAD Designer for presentation boards costume designers who are willing to (212)643-2826. No telephone calls Fax resume and salary req. to: please. EOE. tosh efficient with an excellent command (212) 798-4771 & original graphic designs. Must be go the distance with their creative abili- of Illustrator and Photoshop. Understand- exp’d. designing T-shirts and work on ty. These talented designers will work ing of spot color separations. E-mail or either Phoroshop or Illustrator. Please Cutting Room Manager independently to project trends, cre- Fax resume, cover letter and 5 samples Fax resumes to Bob at: 212-967-1791 Maspeth, Queens sample card mfr. ate new costume lines that will offer Merchandiser Textile 100K of artwork to Michael at : Exp w/ solid, novelty,yarn dye fabrics Experienced only. Salary plus benefits. designs from the traditional to the out- [email protected] / 212-779-2661 Please fax resume to: (718) 456-6796 or rageous. Great opportunity to explore DRAPER travel far East & Europe CAD DESIGNER E-mail: [email protected] your talents. Good benefits package. Bridesmaid & Eveningwear Co. seeks Fax: 732-536-4770 Email:[email protected] New Jersey apparel company seeks Fax Resume: (718) 441-1515 Attn: Francine individual with 5 years minimum expe- (Agcy) designer with min 2 years experience rience. Fax resume to: 212-391-0165 in sportswear. Must be well organized Design Application GRAPHIC DESIGNER and have good computer skills, set up Specialist Leading mfr of lifestyle seeks graphic Merchandiser Textile 130K (Agcy) boards and work with merchandisers. DESIGNER designer with 2 years+ experience in Pls fax resume to Denise 201-867-5563 Lectra, a world leader in providing a EDI COORDINATOR Exp w/ solid, novelty, yarn dye fabrics comprehensive range of high technology Fashion denim co seeks Associate-level licenses such as Disney and Nick. Travel far East and Europe Designer to join knit top division & de- For Accessory co. Duties incl maintain- Fax: 212-643-0684; [email protected] Fax:732-536-4770 Email:[email protected] solutions and related services to the ing database, manual order entry, major industrial users of textiles, leather sign Jrs/Girls cut ’n sew. Must be good CAD Operator w/embroideries & screens. Photoshop EDI processing using all mappings. Est’d. Lingerie Co. seeks someone exp’d. and other soft materials, has an imme- Min. 3 yrs exp w/ EDI. Salary/Benefits diate opening for a DESIGN APPLICA- &Illustrator a must!!! Min 3 yrs out knit in Photoshop/Illustrator. Call or Fax: market exp. Fax resume to Carla: 201- Email Res: [email protected] Tel: 212-889-7878 / Fax: 212-889-8411 TIONS SPECIALIST located in our Graphic Designer Office & Billing Asst. North American Call Center in Atlanta, 894-1186 or email: [email protected] Major importer has acquired licenses for Est’d. Clothing Co. seeks motivated, hard GA. You must have 2+ yrs exp as an KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Infants’ & Kids’ Sleepwear Divisions. working individual with great computer CAD/Textile Design Apparel Designer and a degree in fashion, EDI COORDINATOR Seeking exp’d., motivated team player skills. Knowledge of EDI Billing for Dept. Fast paced textile co seeks exp’d CAD textile, or graphic design or related Wholesale co seeking experienced EDI w/great Graphic & Design skills. Photo- Stores, order processing, and familiarity artist to use photoshop to create lay- field or equivalent exp with Lectra coordinator to handle all aspects of shop & Illustrator a must. Knowledge w/routing of major retailers req’d. Must out, redesign and colorways. Must be Design Software (U4ia, PrimaVision, DESIGNER - Freelance EDI, including setting up new custom- of character license products and detailed work well with others and be an "all exp’d with dyes and gouche is a plus. Kaledo Style, GraphicSpec). Email re- Soft-goods, infant bedding, and coordi- ers. Knowledge of ADS, GE, Advantys, flat sketching ability a plus. Great working rounder", able to assist w/all general Fax resume to 212-730-0362 Att: SK/Connie sume to [email protected]. Reference nates. Layette experience a plus. E-mail and Ezedi software a plus. environment; excellent salary & bene- office duties. Seeking long-term, stable or email [email protected] job DAS101804 in the subject line. Cheryl: [email protected] Fax: 212-643-0684 fits. E-mail: [email protected] candidate. Fax resume to: 212-840-9310 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004

PATTERNMAKER PR Representatives TECH DESIGNERS SALESPERSON FIRST SAMPLE If you have press rep. exp., hard working, KNITWEAR -WOVEN For a growing baby gift, layette and self motivated & love fashion, premier clothing line. Licensed and unlicensed PATTERNMAKER PR Firm has SR / JR immed. openings. Major sportswear co has two positions for Technical Designers, one for Sweat- product. Experience necessary. Full Private label moderate sptswr co seeks [Significant fashion press exp. req’d time. Base plus commission. pro to do first patterns for contemp / ers & one for Wovens. 2 yrs exp req’d. for SR position]. Please send resume to: Candidates will be responsible for proc- Fax resume to 212-947-0224 or missy line. Minimum of 5 yrs exp a Fax: (212) 265.5379 E-mail: [email protected] must. Fast paced environment. Must essing factory samples. Able to measure As the leader in contemporary design, we continue to grow be able to interpret all trends into mus- &evaluatefit samples & production sam- and are looking to add exceptional talent to our team. lin and paper from sketch or rub off. QC INSPECTOR ples. Communicate w/ overseas vendors. SALESPERSON / Should be experienced in running sam- For Established apparel Co. Individual Work closely w/ Director Tech Design. Division Director of Sales (ad #162) must assume responsibility for all Need to handle pressure well since we MERCHANDISER ple room. Must be highly organized, For new childrenswear line. Must have detail oriented with excellent follow up phases of production inspection, are fast paced co. Pls fax resume: Seeking highly qualified individual to direct the efforts of major through to writing QC reports. Have Sweaters -- Attn: Monica 212-719-3154 experience & knowledge of building skills. Knowledge of Spanish required. dept. store & specialty store business. Position will be resp. brands. Great opportunity & benefits. Please fax resume to 718-707-2882 excellent oral, written and computer Wovens - Attn: Betty 212-302-4823 skills. Drive to North Bergen, NJ ware- to develop sales strategy, plan& monitor sales /product pro- Email [email protected] house is required. work in NYC. Nice Tech Designer, Sr. jections and manage regional Account Executives. The ideal PATTERNMAKER environment/benefits. 1. Missy sweaters/ knits candidate MUST have a min. 5 yrs. sales experience; 1 yr. in SALES PRO High fashion design company seeks Fax resume to: 212-989-3505 or 2. Woven tops/ jackets for juniors management with a background in trend/fashion product. Seeking an aggressive & highly motivated skilled Production Patternmaker for email [email protected] 3. Sr. Production Director for juniors individual with knitwear experience for evening and sportswear. Fax resume and line . Exp. w/ multple lines / markets Strong retail math & knowledge of store plans is required. Private Label Sales on a freelance basis. salary requirements to: 212-764-6646 Quality Control and many styles per season Account Executives (ad #163) Must have current Department Store & Knitwear mfr seeks experienced quality 4. Freelance technical designer for Specialty Chain Store contacts. Great PATTERNMAKERS control inspector. Must know garment missy Seeking energetic, sales driven individuals with 3-5 years opportunity for the right individual. •Head Patternmaker-Couture Runway, construction and specing of cut & sew [email protected] Please email a summary of your Collection, Jackets Exp. $150-$175K and sweater knits. Will be responsible wholesale sales experience for both major department store professional career to: •Head PattMkr-Couture Bridal Dress $120K for monitoring and correcting production. TECHNICAL Design-3+ yr w/a Junior & specialty store client base. Email: [email protected] •PDS Mod-Better Sprtswr Gerber $80-100K Must have own car and be willing to or missy denim mfr doing tech design/ •Production Patternmaker $75K travel in USA and abroad. pref Wal-mart priv label exp. $65-75K Qualified candidates, please fax resume, salary history Les Richards Agcy; Call (212) 221-0870 SALES PRO - SWEATERS [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 E-mail resume to: [email protected] & ad # attn: Patricia (212) 764-6912 (EOE) If you have 5 yrs. experience in either Junior or Contemporary Sweaters and RECEPTIONIST Technical Designer you want to run your own business, we Fast paced showroom needs a hard Fast growing sweater co. seeks indiv. DIRECTOR OF SALES have the factory + sampling facility to working, self motivated individual look- w/5+yrs exp. w/ woven background SMITH’S AMERICAN support your expertise. ing for an opportunity for growth. You for new division. Must be a self starter Dynamic contemporary sportswear Sales Associate Please fax resume to: (212) 391-4431 must possess excellent phone etiquette, and be able to handle specs, lab dips, company has an incredible opportunity fast-growing, contemporary sportswear data processing skills and be able to op- fittings, communication with overseas. for an aggressive, self-motivated indi- PRODUCTION co seeks energetic individual in SALES PRO (40K-125K, 12 JOBS) erate in a quick moving environment. Must know Excel. Pls e-mail resume: vidual to join our New York office. Please fax resume to (212) 382-1469 [email protected] Candidate must be results oriented, NY showroom Volume lady and men’s suit mfr. seeks DESIGNERS or e-mail to [email protected] has excellent communication / organi- • 1-3 yrs exp (2) PRO’S to sell suits made in China. (40K-120K, 14 JOBS) zational skills, can manage, lead and • highly organized, detail oriented Base Salary + Commission & possible TECHNICAL DESIGNER train a sales team including independent • excellent communication skills partnership for the right person. PLANNING REGIONAL CONSULTANT outside sales reps in all US territories • knowledge of northeast sales region Please fax resume to: (212) 278-8357 (40K-85K, 6 JOBS) Leading Children’s Importer seeks COORDINATOR Technical Designer with 10 years exp, and key account sales staff. Excellent • sales exp. a must/ retail experience Leading intimate apparel co. seeks a preferably in Boys & Girls. Experienced opportunity for an aggressive and proven a plus TECH DESIGN • team player - opportunity for SALES PRO WTD. (40K-85K, 8 JOBS) highly motivated individual to manage a in developing specs from sketches, sales professional who has extensive PRO’s needed for new activewear fabric. sales consulting team in the NE/MW conducting fit sessions. Thorough relationships with department and growth please e-mail resume to: Men’s & Ladies tennis & golf experience. FABRIC territory, interface with accounts, and act knowledge of garment construction, fit specialty chain store accounts. Base + Commission + possible partner- (40K-90K, 5 JOBS) as a liaison between sales and consulting analysis. Able to follow through on all Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] no phone calls ship for the right person. [email protected] teams. Responsibilities include daily man- aspects of sample development & pro- [email protected] Please fax resume to: (212) 278-8357 Call 212-986-7329 Fax 212-986-7708 agement of field consultants, implement- duction. Computer skills a must and Phone: (212) 354-8670, x 8493 or ing merchandising directives, in-store highly organized. Fax: (212) 563-9597 Seeking SALES REPS/SALES CO. to Production Assistant event planning, and product knowledge Fax resume to: 646-473-0815 represent wholesaler/jobber for Off training. Must live in metro NY area. Abil- Priced Ladies, Men’s & Children’s Major NYC Ladies’ & Girls’ Swimwear Co. Energetic Sales Pro ity to travel required. Word and Excel Established small jr. sweater co. look- wearing apparel. ALL CATEGORIES. seeks the right person for our fast growing skills a must. Excellent benefit pkg. Fax: (212) 371-0000 or Import dept.. LC, traffic, and general Technical Designer ing to grow with right person who has Please fax or mail resume with salary contacts in mass mkts & chains such Email: [email protected] apparel import exp. necessary. E-mail requirements: Attn: H.R Men’s sportswear company looking for resume to: [email protected] experienced Tech Designer with knowl- as Target, Sears, etc. If you’re looking Sales Directors/ Fax: 201-635-0208 for such an opportunity email resume Senior Account Exec Wacoal America, Inc. edge of cut & sew knits, sweater & wo- Account Executives ven construction. Responsibilities in- to: [email protected] European Designer showroom seeks LUCKY BRAND has an outstanding Production Associate One Wacoal Plaza, Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 career opportunity for a Senior NO PHONE CALLS PLEASE clude establishing fit, spec & construc- enthusiastic & motivated individuals Sweater Co. seeks detail oriented individ- tion guidelines, communicating w/ re- EVERLAST WORLDWIDE INC. to join a young, faced paced sales team. Account Executive based in New York. ual for communication w/overseas office, tail clients & overseas vendors, manag- Sales Assistant Candidates must have established Dept. This position will be responsible for cutting ticket entry, follow-up on samples, ing all fit approval samples & tech is- Leading Branded Company seeks &Specialty store relationships, excellent the Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and measuring garments, detail sketching, Sales Rep & Assistant a detail oriented person to assist the Established baby wears company seek- sues. Excellent communication & com- organizational & management skills, and Macy’s West women’s accounts. grading specs, approval on lab-dips, puter skills a must. sales team in daily activities (Sales or- amin. of 5 years experience in Men’s or etc. Please Fax resume to: 212-564-0693 ing immediate employment: ders, customer service, samples, ad- •Sales Rep- Must have exp. in baby wears Please fax resume, attn. HR-SAK @ Women’s designer RTW. Should have a minimum of 3 years (212) 921-0735 ministrative duties, etc). Able to han- Fax resumes to HR: 212-307-7481 related experience. Must have a denim •Admin. Asst./Accountant- Basic office dle multiple tasks and work well in a PRODUCTION ASST duties & QuickBooks exp. necessary. background. Must have excellent ana- Bridge/Sportswear designer seeks ex- very fast paced environment. Word, lytical skills and be highly motivated. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: Excel & e-mail a must. Great opportu- perienced candidate. References re- (212) 564-0871 / [email protected] TRIM BUYER/COORD $60-80K Sales Executive Should possess strong organizational, quired. Fax resume to 212-253-7802 Source Trim, Asia, Europe, Run Schedules nity for right person. communication and computer skills. Please e-mail resumes to: Bag & Stationary co. seeks person w/ or e-mail to: [email protected] [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 min 3 years exp. Knowledge of backpack Must have the ability to multi-task and Seamstress/Tailor [email protected] work comfortably in a fast-paced envi- or fax to 212-239-4261 industry a must. Large accounts available. Sewer needed to start ASAP for high end Fax resumes to: 212-695-7073 ronment. Previous experience with Production Asst. / Clerical textile mfr. Ability to sew simple curtains, Nordstrom preferred. Seeking well organized individuals to also cut, serge, and label fabric samples work in NY/Prod’n.;Secaucus, NJ/Clerical. in bulk. Prior exp. working with fabric Great Sales Opportunity Sales Executive-Denim For consideration, please fax resume Tracking, preparing, follow-up and main- helpful. Good pay & excellent benefits. Well est’d branded private label mfr New Contemporary denim line seeks and salary history to: taining B.O.M. reports. Knowledge of to set up interview or Fax Sample Mgr.: seeks salespeople. MUST HAVE MAJOR dynamic and energetic NY based sales (323) 589-2460 or email: Excel, Word, and Lotus/Garpac req’d.. Fax Tel: 718-752-9830 x 206 / Fax: 718-752-0419 ACCT FOLLOWING w/ missy separates, executive. We are a well established [email protected] resume/salary requirements: 201-583-1525 plus and petites, imports / domestics, company who can offer a great opportu- knits / woven. E-mail resume to: nity for a highly motivated individual Lucky Brand is an Equal Opportunity/ PRODUCTION/ Shipping/Receiving/Admin. [email protected] who possesses strong sales skills and Affirmative Action Employer (M/F/D/V) CONVERTING MANAGER Specialty retailer seeks organized, detail has good contact with the better con- oriented candidate. Light UPS shipping, L.A. Based SWIM REP temporary jean market. SENIOR SALES MANAGER Import Textile receive merchandise, process paperwork. Please fax resume to: Major contemporary Designer seeks SALES St. Tropez swimwear seeks experienced 212-398-0406 Attn: Sales Dept Leading Cotton Design House has F/T. Exp. preferred. Fax/E-mail resume to: girls and junior sales rep to sell surf shops Senior Sales Manager w/ min. 5 yrs. excellent opportunity for experienced 212-755-6737 / [email protected] Key Account Sales as well as majors in your territory. Must exp. in comtemp. Mkt. Must have strong Converter. Correspond w/ overseas To work existing & expand have strong contacts /existing account base. SALES EXECUTIVE Dept. & Specialty stores contacts. mills, lab dips, strike-offs. Ability to SHOWROOM ASSIST/ Please fax resume to: (212) 575-8135 or Fax c/letter & resume: 212-398-9775 multi-task in a fast paced environ- Established Missy/Plus sizes ladies branded and private label Email: [email protected] wear importer seeks highly qualified ment. Strong import exp. w/ textiles a FIT MODEL mens/boys jeanswear busi- Sr. Sales Executive must. All responses will be kept confi- &exp’d seller with est’d & ongoing re- SUCCESSFUL Related Separates com- ness with major accts. Co. is lationships with moderate, specialty & NYC based European Fashion House dential. Please fax resumes to: 212-226- pany has opportunity for a dynamic, seeks dynamic individual with proven 1786 Attn: Kim Mouzouras MISSY SWIM mass accounts to sell our new & excit- team player. Duties include ADM rapidly growing & looking to ing career / casual line in missy & plus track record and solid relationships w/ SALES SUPPORT, COMPUTER DATA St. Tropez swimwear seeks a take charge, add the right indiv to our experienced sales person to start missy sizes. Must have min 10 yrs sales exp. major dept and specialty stores. Respon- ENTRY, GEN COMMUNICATIONS, incl private label. Pls email sibilities include selling, marketing and Production Coordinator AND ASST IN PRDCTN AS FIT MODEL. team. Great oppty for just the division. Must have strong contacts/ existing account base. [email protected] or merchandising. Work with in store Sweaters Candidate should be SIZE 8 (Bust 36- right person. Exp w/this type of call 212 221 6200 X230 personnel organizing sales efforts. Sweater importer seeks dedicated per- 37, Waist 28-29, Hips 38-39) to qualify Please fax resume to: (212) 575-8135 or business a must. Email: [email protected] Domestic as well as international travel son with 2 years exp. in China produc- for the fitting purposes. Experience with required. Only proactive individuals tion. Must be detail oriented, familiar MS Word, Excel, and Outlook necessary. Sales Assistant with a desire to drive a successful busi- with schedules, trims, fit, lab dips Fax resume 212/730-7872 To handle & communicate Private Label Sales ness need apply. Competitive salary. Pls comments & excellent follow up skills. fax resume w / cover letter 212-262-5162. Great benefits. Fax 212-221-8556 w/ major nat’l & regional Excellent opportunity for a motivated SPEC. TECHNICIAN sales professional to develop and grow WANTED SALES REP IN THE U.S. accts. Must be detail orient- business. Est’d Sportswear/Sweater Co. Girls Sportswear Company seeks a ed w/ good communication Leading Woven apparel manufactur- Production Coordinator Spec Technician for sizes 4-16. Must with its own factories seeks a self starter ing company in India, exporting cloth- Swim Mfr. in L.I.C., NY. Exp’d. in all have at least 2 yrs. experience, with skills. w / established private label account Sales Executive ing to leading European departmental, phases of domestic & 807. Fax resume good communication and follow up base & experience to do volume. chain stores and brand labels for their & salary requirements to: 718-433-1730 skills. Must know English and be able Please fax resume to: Pls fax resume to 917-510-9778 Junior Outerwear Six figure compensation, must have Men’s, Women, and Children range. to work in fast paced environment. 646-674-1246 With comprehensive manufacturing Fax Resume attn: Kids Dept 646-562-9650 current contacts with Mid Tier and PRODUCTION Product Development Department store accounts. Minimum factories including cut to pack, embroi- 3 years experience. Excellent working dery, washing and various other value MANAGER Salesperson environment! Please e-mail reume: added facilities all COC AND GPQ MAGASCHONI APPAREL GROUP Spec Tech [email protected] or fax resume: compliant. Pls email us with your Great Opportunity intrest at [email protected]. is seeking candidates that have strong N.Y. Kids’ Co.; Check samples; Review Sales Merchandiser Successful and Well-established headwear 212) 473-4281 EOE background/knowledge in all phases of fittings. Recent grad okay - experience For newly created sweater and glove company has an exciting and knitwear/sweater production. Must be preferred. Fax resume to: 973-812-0581 challenging in-house position for an expe- familiar w/yarn sourcing, be able to division of a major knitwear rienced Product Development Sales- Sales Executive interact with buyers/design team, be company for branded & private person calling on national accounts. Ladies’ PVL Sportswear Mfr. seeks exp’d. excellent at follow up with knit down/ label. Must have 5 yrs experi- Duties will include managing sales &dynamic Sales Exec w/strong relation- LD/samples and be familiar with cost- SR. DESIGNER through development of customer ships at mgmt. level w/Specialty Stores & ing. Candidates must have strong ence in sweater sales to major specific brand lines from concept to major retailers. Must have strong interper- organizational skills, able to communicate SPORTSWEAR accounts. Incredible opportunity delivery. Must have 5 to 10 years of sonal skills and a good eye for product. with overseas offices/ vendors, be com- with great compensation for product development apparel or accessory E-mail to: [email protected] puter literate and detail oriented. Must Major public apparel co. seeks candi- sales with a proven track record. Travel have 6 yrs min. exp. We will consider date to create moderate contemporary the right individual. required. Send resume and salary his- candidates with less exp. as an assistant. separates with 5+ years exp. Must Fax resume to: 646-674-1246 tory to: Human Resources, PO Box Sales Executive Pls fax resumes to 509-757-7814 or have a strong background in woven & 6750, Minneapolis MN 55406 Moderate toBetterwellknown Career& email to [email protected] knit sportswear. The ability to identify CasualSportswearCo. seeksprofession • STORE MANAGER emerging trends & silhouettes. Must Salespersonw/minimum 5 yearsexperi- • ASSISTANT MANAGER possess great color, print, & pattern Account Exec $75-90K ence towork with existingaccountsand PRODUCTION MGR $110K sense w/the understanding of fabrics. Boys 4-20 spts, dept store. Projection/analysis SALES ASSISTANT developnew business.Some computer • FULL & PART-TIME Source & Run Production out of India. Must be organized, detail-oriented, Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Established handbag company seeks a skills& referencesreq’d.Please Fax ASSOCIATES Moderate Sportswear Mfr. able to meet deadlines, & be a team [email protected] Sales Assistant. Minimum of 2 years all resumes to:212-382-2058 player. Must have computer skills. Po- exp. working with Wal-Mart and Target. New Flagship store opening PRODUCTION MGR $80K sition in BOSTON Hdqtrs with excel- Candidate must be organized, detail Mid-November in SoHo, NYC Men’s/Wovens. Shirts & Pants lent salary & benefits. Colin’s oriented, and have strong follow through. SALES JCP, Wal-Mart, Travel Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260 SALES - Women’s/Men’s E-mail Resumes to: [email protected] JONES NEW YORK Please send resume with cover PRODUCTION MGR $75K Rapidly growing denim label seeks enthu- letter and salary history to: Jeans/Denim. Domestic Mfr. Placing siastic & prof. Salespeople to work both INTIMATES Goods, Costing, Time, Actionagate Center SWEATER DESIGNER in showroom & certain territories. Licensed by Madison Intimate Brands [email protected] [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Contemporary sports co. seeks designer Fax resume to: 212-354-5927 Asaleader in Sleepwear/Intimates, or Fax: (212) 391-8188 with min. 5 years import exp. Must Or E-mail to: [email protected] we seek a highly-motivated Specialty have technical knowledge of yarns Stores Salesperson, to join our expanding & sweater construction Sales team! Position requires great Bluefly Holiday Store -Manager PRODUCTION Fax Resume 212-302-5763 SALES ASSOCIATE communication and presentation ability. Bluefly.com is seeking an experienced, Attn: Lynn DENIM Sales Co. seeks qualified individual to assist Must enjoy providing superior customer self motivated store manager to manage PATTERNMAKER Denim line seeks dynamic & exp’d. NY NY Sales Mgr. with key account follow- service, have strong follow-up and the overall operations of their holiday We are seeking an experinced Production based Sales Executive. We can offer a up and to sell specialty & mid-sized stores. superb computer skills (excel spread- store. Candidate must have retail experience, Patternmaker for our Bridge Evening & great opportunity for an individual who Candidate must have great communica- sheets, word, email). Excellent benefits supervisory exp., excellent organizational, Day Dress Collections. Must be accu- TD’S (2) TO $60K has strong contacts with the Junior & tion &organizational skills. Jr. Denim and salary, commensurate to experience. written, verbal & decision making skills. rate & organized. Fax resume & salary STRETCH KNITS, WOMEN WOVENS Contemporary Jeans Market. Please Fax background a plus. Please contact Ken: Email resume with Subject Header: Spec Fax resumes to (212) 354-3400 Attn: HR requirements to: 646-827-3539 Fashion Network: 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 resume attn. SALES at: 212-643-8573 Tel: 323-233-9005 x 12 / Fax: 323-233-9006 St Sales: Your Name, to: [email protected] or go to www.bluefly.com to apply WWD, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2004 23 WWW.WWD.COM Turkey Petitions WTO For Special Safeguard Execs Focus on Treatment of Workers By Scott Malone ance at its plants by giving larger or- suggested there won’t be an immedi- By John Zarocostas ders to fewer suppliers — in his case, ate surge. NEW YORK — The consolidation of cutting to about 25 factories in India “For next year, by and large, all our GENEVA — Representatives of the Turkish apparel manufacturing into fewer fac- and China from 250. customers are holding back on China government called for the World Trade tories around the world after apparel “One of the most important incen- because of the uncertainty,” including Organization to establish a special safeguard and textile quotas are lifted Jan. 1 tives is that we are going to work with the possibility of safeguard actions re- measure to protect the market shares of devel- may encourage plant owners to com- them on a long-term basis,” he said. sulting in fresh quotas being imposed oping nations after the WTO’s 148 members ply with vendor codes of conduct on “If you commit to work with them for by the U.S. and European Union, drop textile and apparel quotas on Jan. 1. adequate wages, working hours and five years, as we try to do, then you Haugen said. “I don’t think there will The three-page proposal was submitted in a the proper treatment of employees. can have everything.” be a rush into China for a while.” closed-door session Tuesday, and was quickly “Most retailers and apparel im- Dealing with abuses such as em- WTO nations have the option of rejected by major textile exporters China and porters are thinking about placing big- ployees toiling for shifts of 12 hours or placing category-specific limits on India, said diplomats who attended the meeting ger bets with fewer people,” among longer requires educating factory their imports of Chinese garments and spoke on the condition of anonymity. the 148 nations of the World Trade owners on labor standards and under- through 2008 through a provision Representatives of Morocco, Tunisia, Jordan, Organization that are dropping the im- standing why the workers are willing known as the safeguard measure. The Mexico and Peru supported the measure. It port limits, said Anne Gust, chief ad- to submit to the shifts. Switcher noted U.S. last year imposed safeguard lim- called for the creation of “a unique safeguard ministrative and compliance officer that the migrant workers who came its on some Chinese goods that al- mechanism that has a self-triggering structure for Gap Inc. “With that comes a bet on from rural areas to staff its Chinese ready had seen their quota limits lift- and aiming at smooth functioning of trade in higher standards.” apparel factories in coastal cities ed, and domestic manufacturers this major export markets and avoiding unfair prac- The issues of underpaid workers, were often willing to work for long month filed petitions seeking addi- tices,” according to a copy obtained by WWD. human rights violations and mistreat- stretches partly because there was tional safeguards. WTO rules allow for safeguard actions on ment of employees in some foreign nothing else to do at their dormitories Haugen said that some of his cus- textiles and apparel against China if imports contract factories first came under during off hours. Since their wages tomers in the children’s wear catego- from that nation cause market disruption to public scrutiny in the mid-Nineties. were low, the additional shift time — ry, which already has been freed of other trading partners. Those safeguards can be Apparel vendors and retailers, who and additional pay — was welcomed. quotas, are trying to reduce their re- applied by importing countries to specific cate- source most of their products from So getting the firm’s vendors to liance on China. gories of merchandise for as much as three plants largely run by independent make meaningful changes in shift Chinese manufacturers — particu- years, but require action by the importing nation. owners, turned to codes of conduct lengths required a two-part solution: larly in the south — face hurdles such The thrust of the Turkish proposal is to try that they developed or that were gen- raising hourly wages so that workers’ as energy shortages, Gust said. to preempt the sharp price reductions and in- erated by third-party monitors such as pay was not reduced and developing Even if China’s growth is gradual at tense competition expected to follow the end Social Accountability International in recreation and education programs to first, it will be pronounced after the of the quotas. an effort to crack down on abuses. keep factory workers busy when they safeguard provision expires, speakers A senior Turkish official, who asked not to Gap’s suppliers once accepted the were not at their sewing machines. said. Polaski noted that China’s mar- be identified, said a starting point would be a rules grudgingly, but in recent years fac- Sandra Polaski, senior associate for ket share growth will come at the ex- monitoring mechanism to track price and tory owners have told Gust, “‘We do it be- the Trade, Equity & Development pense of poor nations that are depend- quantity trends before measures are triggered. cause we see the benefit of it,’’’ she said. Project at the Carnegie Endowment ent on apparel and textile exports. Textiles and apparel accounted for 34.4 per- Complying with codes of conduct for International Peace, suggested Apparel exports represent 45 percent cent of Turkey’s merchandise exports in 2003. and improving workers’ treatment has that companies need to focus on China of the gross domestic products of Several diplomats said the proposal does helped Gap suppliers to attract and as they try to improve living standards Lesotho and Cambodia, and 41 per- not appear to be compatible with the WTO’s maintain skilled employees. Faced with for garment workers. cent of Honduras, and many develop- norms and could not be implemented in a violations such as excessive work “China is big enough that it can ing nations are not prepared to handle market economy. hours, Gap has brought in industrial en- draw a line under the race to the bot- the potential loss of export business, The initiative by Turkey follows another gineers to help its contractors operate tom,” she said, using the analogy for she said. drive spearheaded by Bangladesh, which more efficiently. factories’ efforts to undercut one an- “The international community’s re- called for a WTO study on the impact that the “In some cases, productivity is up other by paying workers lower wages. sponse to this problem so far has been lifting of quotas will have on developing na- as much as 40 percent,” at the facto- China faces growing unemployment in really inadequate,” she said. tions. Industry experts and executives have es- ries, Gust said. rural provinces, where formerly state- Gust said governments, companies timated that as many as 30 million jobs in the Tom Haugen, executive director at run companies are making the jump and nongovernmental organizations developing world may be jeopardized by the Hong Kong sourcing powerhouse Li & to private ownership and are cutting need to collaborate on this potential end of the quota system. Fung (Trading) Ltd., said, “Your ability millions of jobs. problem, which some experts fear Both moves are seen as part of a campaign to influence what happens at a factory Polanski suggested that Chinese could jeopardize the jobs of as many as to try to get exporting powerhouse China to vol- is directly proportional to the amount authorities should raise national mini- 30 million garment workers worldwide. untarily limit its exports after Jan. 1. Chinese of business that you do there.” mum wage standards to ensure that “You can’t just get one sector to go officials have ruled out voluntary restraints. Gust and Haugen made their re- manufacturers don’t prey on the un- fix this issue,” she said. At the end of the closed-door proceedings, marks at a Social Accountability Inter- employed. That, in turn, would reduce Still, she added that it’s important Hyuck Choi of South Korea, chairman of the national conference in Manhattan on some of the pressure for manufactur- for apparel importers to consider the WTO Council on Goods, said there was no Oct. 18. ers outside China to cut their wages to effect of their actions on fragile consensus on how to proceed. He said he will Daniel Rüfenact, director of corpo- compete. economies. While business demands continue consulting with WTO members on the rate social responsibility with the $100 Speakers at the conference agreed may require firms to pull orders from issue until the council’s next formal session on million Lausanne, Switzerland-based that China will be in a position to grow some nations, she said, executives Nov. 11. sportswear brand Switcher, said his its share of apparel manufacturing should ensure that “you do so at least company has also improved compli- after the quotas are lifted, though they in a responsible way.”

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