OLYMPIAN BIG IN BEIJING EFFORT ALEXANDER WANG OPENS A THE DUKE AND DUCHESS OF FLAGSHIP IN THE CHINESE CAMBRIDGE CAPITAL AND IT’S HIS PUMP UP BIGGEST STORE YET. PAGE 4 THE LONDON GAMES. PAGE 11

CONSUMER CAUTION Fashion World Feels Euro-Zone’s Woes

By SAMANTHA CONTI

LONDON — It’s sure no fun being a European these days. WWD Political upheaval in France and Greece, renewed worries over the future of the euro, a welter of de- pressing economic news, rising unemployment and MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY no clear exit from the Europe-wide financial crisis are all taking their toll on retail — and the consumer psyche — from London to Frankfurt, Paris to Athens. Even before the French elected François Hollande, a tax-the-rich Socialist, as their presi- dent, and before talks to form a new Greek govern- ment collapsed Sunday — adding to concerns that the austerity-weary country could exit the euro zone — Hermès chief executive officer Patrick Thomas, summed up what he thinks the future holds for European brands. “It is going to be a very difficult year,” he said, even as he reported a 21.9 percent spike in first- quarter revenues to $1.02 billion. “The beginning was easy…but the trend is not good.” The most recent economic projections in Europe back him up: On Friday, the European Commission confirmed its projection of a 0.3 percent contraction in the economies of the 17 euro-zone countries this year. Growth of 1 percent is expected in 2013. Last Thursday, the Bank of France projected zero growth for the country in the first six months of the year, compared with 0.2 percent growth in the fourth quarter of 2011. SEE PAGE 12

Bergdorf’s to Fete Birthday

By JEAN E. PALMIERI

NEW YORK — Bergdorf Goodman is preparing to throw itself a big birthday bash this fall. The luxury retailer turns 111 years old this year and will celebrate with a series of special events in- cluding a documentary film, a book and an anniversa- ry collection of more than 100 exclusive products. The theme of the event will play off the numbers of its age — 111 — and is being touted as “one store, one city, Romeo one experience.” This is the first birthday Bergdorf has marked since 1951; its centennial fell in 2001, the year of the terrorist attacks on New York City, and was not commemorated. The celebration will kick off Sept. 6 during the fourth annual Fashion’s Night Out with designer appearances Returns and the debut at retail of the anniversary collection. Among the brands that are creating special mer- MILAN — The Italian designer, best known for his Eighties chandise are Alexander McQueen, which designed a ruched velvet dress; Christian Louboutin, which is collections of chic clothes with a controlled sense of doing pyramid-studded platforms; evening looks from exotica, is back for fall. Romeo Gigli has teamed with Oscar de la Renta and Akris, and even an exclusive the influential retailer Joyce for a men’s and women’s perfume called 754 from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. In men’s, Giorgio Armani has re-created a mod- collection that, in his words, is “timeless and season- ern version of the “American Gigolo” suit as well less.” Here, a look from the new line, photographed in as a midnight blue dinner jacket. Isaia has pro- Gigli’s Milan apartment. For more, including an interview duced an exploded plaid peacoat, Brioni offered a gray velvet dinner jacket with a lining inspired with the designer, see pages 6 and 7. by Bergdorf ’s packaging, Ermenegildo Zegna in- corporated the store’s signature lavender color into the chalkstripe of a navy suit, Michael Bastian screen-printed the Sherman Monument from New York’s Grand Army Plaza onto a white oxford shirt and Ferragamo produced ties that incorporate an illustration of the store along with the Statue of Liberty and other iconic images from the city. Other participants include Loro Piana, Kiton, Moncler, Paul Smith, Deakin and Francis, Jan Leslie, Lois Sasson, Jimmy Choo, Magnanni and Prada. Ginny Hershey-Lambert, executive vice president of merchandising, stressed that the merchandise cre- ated for the anniversary is more than just tweaks of PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE existing product. “When we approached our vendors, SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012

Parsons, PPR Link for Contest the Briefing Box best time,” said collins. it’s conceivable that the By Lisa Lockwood winners could do the internship before starting their in Today’s WWd full-time job. He said one student will win for ready- NEw YoRk — PPR, Parsons The New school for to-wear and one student will win for accessories. design and The Fancy have joined forces to give “The opportunity for our students to work with Parsons students the chance to win an internship such an esteemed roster of premier brands in both A spring 1986 look within one of the luxury group’s 16 brands. the luxury and sport and lifestyle sectors will pro- from Romeo Gigli. students’ work will be featured on The Fancy, a vide these students with the additional experience web site that’s part magazine, part that will all but guarantee shopping guide and part social net- them a strong start to their work. The two winners of the competi- careers,” said collins. tion will also be showcased at Barneys “Partnering with PPR and New York’s Madison avenue store in The Fancy will provide our september. The competition is focused students with an interna- on PPR’s defining theme, “Empowering tional perspective, thus imagination,” and is designed to stimu- positioning them as design late new ideas at the PPR brands. thinkers poised to lead among PPR’s divisions are Gucci, fashion globally” Bottega Veneta, Yves saint Laurent, Joseph Einhorn, found-

alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, er of TheFancy.com, said, Archive WWD by Photo Brioni, stella Mccartney, sergio “we are looking forward Rossi, Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, to seeing what the bright- Political upheaval in France and Greece renewed worries JeanRichard, Puma, Volcom, cobra, est young designers in over the future of the euro. PAGE 1 Electric and Tretorn. the world are dreaming “PPR seeks to build bridges between up at Parsons.” Bergdorf Goodman turns 111 years old this year and the education and business communi- The top 20 candidates will celebrate with a documentary film, a book and a ties within the fashion industry, and selected by Parsons will collection of more than 100 exclusive products. PAGE 1 highlight its brands as drivers of creativ- present their work today to ity,” said Laurent claquin, head of PPR a panel of fashion-industry The men’s and women’s Joyce by Romeo Gigli in the americas. “The Fancy and PPR’s insiders, including collins, collection for fall will be unveiled on Joyce’s online partnership with the school of Fashion claquin and Einhorn, as at Parsons will help to inspire and foster well as dennis Freedman store on July 1. PAGE 1 the world’s future design generations by of Barneys, candy Pratts empowering imagination.” Price of Vogue and dree PPR, Parsons The New School for Design and The competition is open to the Hemingway, model and The Fancy have joined forces to give Parsons current senior class of Parsons BFa actress. The panelists will students the chance for an internship within one Fashion design program. students Parsons’ seniors, review the students’ work of PPR’s 16 brands. PAGE 2 in the areas of women’s and men’s whose work is shown and select five finalists who ready-to-wear and accessories will here, will compete best exemplify the theme. Manolo Blahnik has inked a long-term deal with for a PPR internship. compete for internships based on the LeccA DAN by Photo in mid-June, the finalists Kurt Geiger to sell the brand at Harrods and Liberty quality and conceptual vision of their will have their collections in London. PAGE 3 thesis collections, from the garments themselves to featured on The Fancy, and the winning look and their portfolios and visual collateral. accessory, voted on by the public, will be awarded Camuto Group, the master licensee of the Jessica simon collins, dean of the school of Fashion at an expense-paid internship of up to $10,000 with the Simpson Collection, has signed a deal with Destination Parsons, said the internship, which will run for one PPR brand of their choice. The winners will be re- Maternity to design, produce and distribute maternity to two months, could take place in London, Paris, vealed at the end of June. The partnership will be apparel bearing Simpson’s name. PAGE 3 New York, Boston, Rome or Milan.“it’s flexible. celebrated with a private event hosted by The Fancy They’ll be working with the brand to figure out the during Fashion’s Night out in september. Ray-Ban will quietly fete its 75th birthday this year with a new collection and advertising campaign that nods to its storied history. PAGE 8

Avon Weighing Coty Request to See Books The New York City Ballet Spring Gala was a “one-time- only salute to France” titled A La Française. PAGE 9 aVoN PRoducTs iNc. every so billion offer on april 2 and Becht a former Johnson & Johnson ex- slightly opened the door to coty has been appealing to the firm’s ecutive, recently took over as Italy’s weekly magazine Il Mondo last week speculated inc. sunday, saying it would take shareholders, saying that only chief executive officer from that Giorgio Armani is looking into creating a social and a week to consider the compa- with a look at the company’s books andrea Jung and is reviewing the cultural Armani Foundation. PAGE 9 ny’s request for information that could he put his best price forward. company’s operations. would help it firm up its $10.65 Not only is avon struggling to and the sEc is already looking billion takeover offer. revamp its operations, the com- into whether the company violated Writer Leonard S. Bernstein honors the Garment District “avon’s board of directors, in pany is dealing with a growing list the Foreign corrupt Practices act of his youth with a new short story collection. PAGE 10 conjunction with management of legal issues. by paying bribes to open up the and the company’s financial and The securities and Exchange chinese market for direct selling The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge began 2012 legal advisors, will consider coty’s commission recently opened a third in april 2005. Just the investigation Olympic celebrations in London by attending a dinner letter dated May 9, 2012,” the com- line of inquiry touching on the firm. into that matter cost avon nearly at the Royal Albert Hall on Friday to honor British pany said. “avon’s board expects The government watchdog is $250 million over three years. The athletes. PAGE 11 to respond within a week.” looking into trading of avon stock company’s ultimate liability could in coty’s letter, chairman Bart that took place before coty’s offer equal three times the profits made on WWD.CoM Becht, said, “we are prepared became public. an avon spokes- possible by the bribes. to sign a confidentiality agree- woman said Friday the company The regulatory body is also ment with standstill provisions was “cooperating in the matter” looking into the company’s deal- FASHION: Romeo Gigli is making a comeback. A new that would restrict us from tak- and declined to comment further. ing with wall street analysts. collection for fall will be unveiled on Joyce’s e-commerce site ing further public steps in seek- The sEc declined to comment Even with Buffett signaling on July 1. For more, see WWD.com/fashion-news. ing to acquire avon so long as you and coty could not be reached. he’s ready to charge in, share- agree in good faith to provide us it is illegal to use inside infor- holders have remained skeptical with requested information on a mation while trading stocks, but about the prospects of coty being timely basis.” it is unclear just what the sEc is able to acquire avon. shares of Becht, who in the letter gave exploring and what impact the in- the company fell 3.4 percent to avon a deadline of today, also said quiry might have on avon, if any. $20.19 Friday. That’s well below uberinvestor warren Buffett’s Even one brush with the sEc the $24.75 coty has proposed, al- WWD. Berkshire Hathaway inc. was is usually seen as a distraction though the company wants a look backing the offer. for a company, and avon already at avon’s books before it can firm avon rejected coty’s initial $10 has a very full plate. sheri Mccoy, up its offer. — EVAN CLARK Available on iPad.® To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 100. MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. 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w14a002a.indd 2 5/13/12 3:43 PM 05132012154425 WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 3 WWD.COM Manolo Blahnik Inks Deal Simpson Apparel Headed To Destination Maternity With Geiger for Expansion JESSICA SIMPSON, who fi- growing her brand with the nally gave birth to a baby girl, Camuto Group.” Kristina Blahnik, Manolo’s niece, who runs Maxwell Drew, on May 1, is still The collection is designed By SAMANTHA CONTI the business, said it is the right time to build out in expansion mode. with a vintage Seventies feel. It the brand in the U.K. Camuto Group, the master contains signature denim in a LONDON — Manolo Blahnik is raising his pro- “I think it all started with the Liberty collabo- licensee of the Jessica Simpson variety of washes and leggings, file in London. ration. We wanted to dip our toe into the water. Collection, has signed a deal as well as vintage print tops, Blahnik, who until recently had just one point In the past, we never had a growth strategy as with Destination Maternity to flowing maxis and form-fitting of sale in the U.K. — a shop on a quiet street in such — we were always about organic growth. design, produce and distrib- jersey knit dresses. Jackets, blaz- London’s Chelsea — has inked a long-term deal And change can be scary. But we do want to ute maternity apparel bearing ers and chunky relaxed sweaters with Kurt Geiger to sell the brand at Harrods and reach out to more customers. With Liberty, and Simpson’s name. The deal marks and knits round out the offering. Liberty. Under the terms of the deal, Geiger will with Marigay at Harrods, it all fell into place. the 24th product classification Bottoms retail from $36 to $59 manage and create boutiques within the shoe de- We still want to keep things small and exclusive, for Simpson, whose fashion em- for printed and sateen denim. partments at the two London department stores. and we don’t want to be everywhere. We won’t pire is headed toward $1 bil- Knit tops are $36, dresses The Liberty space opened earlier this year be looking at any further locations in the U.K.” lion in retail sales by the end and blouses are $59 and and also carries tote bags, scarves and statio- The U.K. isn’t the only region where the of this year, and includes foot- sweaters and capes are nery adorned with Blahnik’s watercolor draw- brand is expanding. Blahnik made a personal wear, outerwear, sunglass- $69. The collection hits ings. In July, a boutique will open at Harrods appearance at Excelsior Milano last Thursday to es, handbags, dresses, stores this fall and will be featuring the fall collection. The new space fete his brand’s first trunk show at the Milanese jeanswear, jewelry and available in over 700 re- will span 300 square feet and be located in the luxury department store. sportswear. tail locations, including Boudoir on the first floor. “It’s my first time in a place like this, very “I’m [pleased] to part- Motherhood Maternity, “I am very excited that my shoes will reach young, with all this music,” said the footwear de- ner with Destination Destination Maternity, an even broader audience through Kurt Geiger signer, who was shod in his trademark eccentric Maternity to design a as well as Destination in Liberty and Harrods,” said Blahnik. hot-pink slippers with striped socks, referring collection of fashion- Maternity shop-in-shops “The Liberty opening in February has been to the glam, festive mood of the Excelsior store. able styles that make within Macy’s. very successful, and with Harrods being a “But I really like the idea that young women you look and feel great,” Celebrity tie- breathtakingly beautiful store full of incredible make an economic effort to buy the shoes of said Simpson. “You want ins are a growing heritage, seeing my shoes there in the next cou- their dreams.” to wear clothes that are part of the busi- ple of months will be a special moment.” Blahnik, who said he will fly to Madrid flattering to your baby ness at Destination Marigay McKee, Harrods’ chief merchant, in a few days for a photo shoot with Pedro bump; you want to show Maternity. The retail- said she was pleased to have Blahnik in store. Almodóvar by Mario Testino for Vogue Spain, your bump off.” er recently signed a “Creations from this legendary shoemaker have also revealed that he is “doing a collaboration Chris Daniel, presi- deal with Rosie Pope, redefined the role of the shoe in fashion and are for an American-European movie.” dent of Destination the pregnancy guru coveted by opinion formers and fashion moguls — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Maternity, told WWD, with the Bravo show throughout the world,” she said. FROM ALESSANDRA TURRA, MILAN that as soon as they “Pregnant in Heels” and heard Simpson was has an ongoing collabora- pregnant, they were tion with Heidi Klum. eager to do a deal. In recent years, “It was a natural for Destination Maternity has David Yurman Goes Bigger on Rodeo CULLEN us. She’s very well been faced with the dual known for style challenges of the recession

The 45-piece high-jewelry collection, which MARCOS and fashion and A look and an 8 percent decrease By MARCY MEDINA debuted last year, is priced from $10,000 to $1.2 BY the great work from the in births in the U.S. since million and is only available in Yurman’s New she’s been doing line. 2007. — LISA LOCKWOOD PHOTO BEVERLY HILLS — David Yurman and his new York studio and the Beverly Hills store. chief executive officer, Glen Senk, capped off Last week the brand hosted a slew of art ben- a week of West Coast events by celebrating the efits and a party Tuesday at its recently expand- brand’s renovated and expanded boutique here, ed South Coast Plaza store in Costa Mesa, which which opened Thursday at 371 North Rodeo Drive. doubled in size to 2,400 square feet in February. “The store is all about relaxed American luxu- A San Jose store is slated to open this fall. ry, which is perfect for California,” said Yurman, Senk, nine weeks into his tenure as ceo, said, “I’d adding, “We think of ourselves as Californians like to take credit for all of the recent developments.” even though I was born and raised in New York.” He described the switch from Urban Outfitters Yurman lived in the Golden State from age 19 Inc., a company he worked at for nearly two decades, to 25 when he minored in art at Santa Monica to fine jewelry as “like starting back in first grade — Community College and rode horses in Big Sur. exciting, overwhelming, and fun to be put in a situa- Architecture firm Gabellini Sheppard tion where there’s such a steep learning curve.” Associates conceptualized the 2,700-square-foot Senk assured that there are no surprises up West Coast flagship, which is three times the size his sleeve. “What I’m doing here is not any sort of the previous boutique, as an artist’s studio sim- of revolution,” he said. “It’s about taking the ilar to the New York space where Yurman works. brilliance of what David and Sybil do and con- The store features classically modern architec- tinuing to build it out. I’ve known them for a ture, organic materials like walnut countertops long time so if there are any surprises, it’s how and stone floors and, for the first time, Yurman good the good is.” and his wife Sybil’s own paintings and sculptures. With 26 retail stores, worldwide distribution Fabric wall coverings and silk area rugs soft- in 450 doors and retail sales topping $500 million, en the space and define areas designated for Senk said the plan is to expand the buys rather women’s signature and high-jewelry collections, than the number of stores. “We’re very protective as well as men’s, bridal and watches. of our wholesale so I do not expect to see anything significant with respect to the number of doors.” Instead, he plans to focus on the recent ex- Inside the pansions in men’s watches and bridal, the two renovated store. fastest-growing segments of the company. “We’re very excited by the timepiece busi- ness, and we see ourselves as the only American luxury watch brand. There’s a real opportunity to capitalize on that,” said Senk. The brand will unveil a new sports watch at the Couture jew- elry show in Las Vegas at the end of the month. As for bridal, “It’s been a sleeper for us and our wholesale partners would be anxious for us to get more aggressive with it.” The company does plan to harness social media to its advantage. “We could be doing more because there’s so much story there. It’s a ques- tion of pulling it together and finding the right medium,” said Senk. Yurman recently tweeted for the first time during the fall ad campaign Resort 2013: Etro shoot with Gisele Bündchen in Malibu. While Yurman declined to give sales-per- VERONICA ETRO stayed in her comfort zone for her Etro resort col- SARDELLA square-foot estimates for the two California lection, opting for “bright, vibrant colors for a tribal-paisley, jungle jour- stores, Senk estimated the company’s productiv- ney,” she said. The bold ethnic prints were balanced by clean, functional DONATO ity as “higher than anyone’s other than Apple.” shapes, such as a short-sleeve tunic dress, or a V-neck caftan worn with BY The computer retailer has estimated sales per ankle-length pants. There were also fitted dresses in stretch silk with

PHOTO square foot of more than $2,000. asymmetric, horizontal flat pleats. 4 WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 WWD.COM

Alexander Wang and Rodrigo to the lure of big profits by expanding too Bazan in the Beijing store. fast. “You have to take it very seriously, one step at a time.” Clouding some of the excitement of this grand opening is the ongoing lawsuit in New York launched by a former em- ployee, alleging sweatshop conditions in operations there. Wang’s animated face fell at the mention, and his people are tight-lipped. “There is nothing to say,” his spokeswoman said firmly. Still, the young designer’s excite- ment over the 5,000-square-foot, two-floor Beijing flagship space is palpable. “We had so much more real estate here, so it really allowed us to experiment more than we did in New York,” Wang said. Unlike the New York store, where the focus is on natural light and preserving some of the building’s heritage features, the Beijing store includes more experi- mentation in design and display. Working with architect and designer Joseph Dirand, they have emphasized marble and bronze, including a marble wall cut from one stone that the designer likens to a Rorschach inkblot test. The New York fur-covered hammock has morphed into a goat-hair-covered cement sofa. Customers are greeted at Wang Celebrates Beijing Opening the ground-floor entrance by a vintage black leather de Sede sofa flown in from Wang’s journey to the Chinese Jet Li’s “Fearless,” who made Wang’s open- By CAROLYNNE WHEELER Mainland to open his flagship has felt ing her first major event since giving birth like a homecoming of sorts for the New six months ago. She said a designer friend BEIJING — As a child, China was the last York-based designer. Wang, who speaks introduced her to the clothes two years place Alexander Wang wanted to be. Mandarin, has traveled frequently over the ago. “They are very simple but very fash- Uprooted from his San Francisco home years to Shanghai, where his mother still ionable and very comfortable to wear,” she at the age of 12, when his Taiwanese- lives; his father is based in Hong Kong. said, speaking in Mandarin after exchang- American mother moved to Shanghai, the “My mom is so excited,” Wang said. “She ing a few words with Wang during photos. budding fashion designer spent a year in was the first one who told me, back in the day, “I think he is the most famous here among China’s financial capital — and hated it, ‘One day China is going to be a fashion capital these young American designers.” rejecting an exclusive private school there and you will be back here.’” The brand has had limited exposure to return to boarding school in the U.S. the On Friday night he was, with a modest in China so far, carried by the Hong following year. red-carpet event followed by a thumping Kong-based Lane Crawford department “I missed my friends and everything underground parking lot party featur- store and multibrand boutique Shine in back home,” he recalled Friday in an in- ing DJ Diplo and rapper A$AP Rocky. Beijing, and in the multibrand boutique

terview here, perched on the fur-lined Actress Zoe Kravitz — a friend of Wang’s Joyce in Shanghai. The designer and his YIN

concrete sofa that is a centerpiece of his — and her boyfriend, actor Penn Badgley, team fly next to Hong Kong, where on CHI second flagship in the world. flew to Beijing to join him for the open- Wednesday they have an event with a pop- SIM

“It didn’t look like this at all,” Wang ing, along with a collection of Chinese up shop connected to the Joyce boutique BY said, gesturing toward the modern con- models and stars. in Kowloon’s Harbour City. Zoe Kravitz and Penn Badgley

crete-and-glass storefronts outside. “If “It’s amazing, this is where he’s from, This year will see the opening of three PHOTOS there was something like this then, I it’s amazing that he is opening the store shops on the Mainland — the flagship in might have changed my mind. here now,” Kravitz said. Beijing and two others later this year in California and a grand marble staircase “It’s very surreal to see my name on a “He is so young,” said Sun Li, 29, the Shanghai. By the end of the year, there will leads shoppers from the entrance up to building in Beijing.” Chinese actress best known for her role in be 14 locations across Asia, including shops- second-floor displays. in-shop in Seoul, Bangkok and Singapore. While Wang concedes he has “cherry- Key to Wang’s marketing strategy in picked” from his collection for this market, China, as back home, is online presence. there are no exclusive designs for his Asian With both Facebook and Twitter blocked by clientele, and he pauses when asked if his Chinese censors, Wang has launched a Sina heritage influences his design. Weibo account — the leading Chinese Web “I never really think about my de- portal — to draw in Chinese followers, and sign approach as something that’s re- is expanding the company’s e-commerce ally trapped down by my nationality or reach to include a Mandarin-language site my background, and although we are an and shipping to Mainland China, Hong American brand, I think that is more to the Kong and Japan. sense of what is American sportswear, and “We are careful to do things organi- things that feel very accessible and easy to cally, we do check how we perform, we wear,” he said. “But at the same time we re- check what the potential is to be,” said ally see our audience and our consumer as Rodrigo Bazan, president of Alexander a global citizen, someone who isn’t defined Wang, who is managing the designer’s by where they live or what kind of music Sun Li expansion while insisting that the brand they listen to, things like that. It’s a sensi- build one shop at a time and not succumb bility that is much more individual.”

will all be finished in September. Bergdorf’s Big Year: Retailer Sets Events to Mark 111th The design of the floor was con- {Continued from page one} personal recollections from designers, year. Phase two will include an area for ceived by Fargo and includes weathered we asked them, ‘What does Bergdorf celebrities, customers and employees in- European collections including Givenchy, European oak parquet floors and cas- mean to you?’” she said. cluding Candice Bergen, Carol Burnett, Rick Owens and Alexander McQueen. cade coil metal drapery. Ceiling tiles are As part of the celebration, the men’s Manolo Blahnik, Alber Elbaz, Mary- There will be shops for Gucci, Bottega also consistent throughout. Beyond that, and women’s stores and their windows Kate and Ashley Olsen, Rachel Zoe and Veneta and Etro, along with Yves Saint Bergdorf ’s worked with each designer to will highlight archival images from the Bergdorf ’s fashion director Linda Fargo. Laurent, Dries Van Noten and Thom individualize their area. In addition, the retailer’s history. In addition, a special It will also feature original sketches Browne, which will be the first men’s bou- windows to the street are being exposed. documentary, titled “Scatter My Ashes at commissioned by Bergdorf ’s of the work tiques in the U.S. for those brands. Chrome “Men’s is having a massive moment,” Bergdorf ’s,” will make its debut during of designers ranging from Balmain and Hearts will also have a significant presence. said Hershey-Lambert. New York Fashion Week in September. Chanel to Lanvin, examples of the store’s The restaurant has been removed and will On the main floor of the men’s store, There will be a private gala in October. advertising campaigns through the years be replaced by a Dolce & Gabbana shop Bergdorf ’s is creating a “shoe library,” The film is being directed by Matthew and vintage images of the store and its and there will be distinct presentations for which is inspired by the Villa Necchi Miele and takes the audience “behind window displays. jewelry and leather goods. The Gucci, YSL, in Milan. “It will have a 1930s-1940s in- the scenes into the inner sanctum” of the In addition to the birthday planning, D&G and Chrome Hearts projects are ex- fluence with a touch of Sixties ‘Mad store, Bergdorf ’s said. It will feature de- Bergdorf ’s is scrambling to complete a pected to be completed by the end of June. Men,’” said Matthew Singer, men’s fash- signers and celebrities including Karl significant renovation of the third-floor The final phase will center around ion director. “It will be the destination Lagerfeld, Michael Kors, Joan Rivers and contemporary designer space in its men’s American and international sportswear for shoes for men in New York City.” others sharing personal stories about their store before the celebration begins. This and denim and will include brands such The shoe department will include brands experiences with Bergdorf Goodman. is the first comprehensive revamp of the as Paul Smith, Michael Bastian, Todd that are carried in areas throughout the A companion to the film will be a floor since it opened in 1990. Snyder and Billy Reid. store and will include designer labels. book with the same title, written by Sara The first phase of the renovation in- The entire project is slated to be com- “We just want you to take your shoes off James Mnookin with an introduction by cluded the unveiling of new Lanvin and pleted by Labor Day, as Bottega Veneta, once,” Singer said. This department is Holly Brubach. It will be an anthology of Prada Men’s boutiques at the end of last Dries Van Noten, Thom Browne and Etro also slated for a Sept. 1 completion. Honored.

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©2012 Bloomberg L.P. All rights reserved. 6 WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012

Looks from the new Joyce by Romeo Gigli collection.

Romeo Returns In an exclusive preview, the intellectual designer, one of the By LUISA ZARGANI hottest names around in the Eighties, showed an enduring fas- cination with fashion, unfazed by his ongoing legal battles with MILAN — Romeo Gigli is making a comeback in a col- different previous owners and his short-lived collections with laboration with influential retailer Joyce. complicated names, such as Io Ipse Idem and XII XII XLIX The men’s and women’s Joyce by Romeo Gigli par Romeo Gigli. collection for fall will be unveiled on Joyce’s online The designer, still sporting a Peter Pan-like frame clad in store on July 1. It will then be presented at the chain’s one of his form-hugging looks and reveling in the project with Hong Kong and Beijing venues on July 24, followed by Joyce, shunned nostalgia and dismissed any thought of draw- Shanghai and Venice, where Joyce will open its first ing inspiration from his past. “I look ahead and behind me, but pop-up store in the Italian city at the end of August. I live my own times, my daily life, marked by the engagements Gigli is expected to make personal appearances, and with my wife and my daughter,” said Gigli, while styling the looks special window installations, combining the new line on the models in his Milanese apartment, filled with rugs and and archival pieces, will highlight the project. tables he designed himself; countless books, and a colorful and WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 7 WWD.COM

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Fall 1991 WWD.com/ LOOKING BACK… fashion-news. Romeo Gigli, spring 1987. ASHBY DAN AND BOUTEFEU MICHEAL SARDELLA,

DONATO Spring Spring

BY 1988 1990 PHOTOS

The collection features 35 women’s and 20 men’s looks for fall, and the designer is already at work on the spring 2013 season. Andrew Keith, president of Joyce, said the project ful- fills a long-standing dream, since the company worked with Gigli for the launch of his very first collection. Keith defined Gigli as “an amazing creative force” and praised “his use of sumptuous fabrics and the finesse with which he layers the different textures of fine silks, velvets, bro- cades.” Many of these fabrics were developed exclusively for this collection, made even more special, he said, by Gigli’s unique “artist’s sensitivity to color.” The executive said “there is a luxurious sensuality to

Romeo’s work that combines a romantic fragility togeth- er with architectural and form-defining silhouettes that we believe is unique and is why he has remained such an influential and creative fashion force throughout his remarkable career.” Asked why Joyce deemed this the best moment to work

with Gigli again, Keith said the project is in response to requests from those customers who have known the de- signer over the years. “But I think what is exciting about this collection is that it sees Romeo’s signature evolving and he is speaking to a whole new generation of custom- ers who will be experiencing his creative vision for the ·· first time,” said Keith, adding that Joyce is expecting “very positive results” based on the “extremely complimentary and excited feedback” it has already received. For fall, Gigli said he did not want an Asia-centric col- lection, but that he did wish to emphasize “the face of

Asian women and their gestures.” He also took into con- MAITRE sideration the region’s weather and opted for lightness of weight and textures, as seen on a purple, feather-light

silk and mohair coat or on a beaver fur coat with a cape. The designer DOMINIQUE Silhouettes are slim and elongated, often with asym- in his Milan BY metric necklines; there are also ruched skirts and shirts apartment. embellished with rose buds or bubble sleeves, as well as PHOTOS one of his favorites, cocoon jackets. There are touches of color, such as orange and dark red, or blue-greens, as a collection for “strong, modern, confident yet graceful women who appreciate quality and luxury.” The men’s collection includes fitted and extralong jackets and creased heavy cotton pants, reversible coats What is exciting about this collection is with silver fox-fur collars and comfortable tweed and flannel jackets. Colorful shirts come with high collars that it sees Romeo’s signature evolving and and bow ties. Fitted mohair pullovers are worn as vests, decorated with stripes and floral patterns. A men’s coat he is speaking to a whole new generation retails for between 14,500 and 48,900 Hong Kong dollars, or $1,868 and $6,302. Born in 1949, Gigli launched his own brand in 1983, of customers who will be experiencing his and, strongly passionate about architecture and travel, the designer infused his looks with architectural shapes creative vision for the first time. combined with romantic, Renaissance touches, as well as punk street-style and ethnic looks. Gigli became in- — ANDREW KEITH, JOYCE fluential, but his brand suffered through several chang- es of ownership, beginning with a bitter dispute in the early Nineties with former partners Carla Sozzani and assorted range of furniture, including a Moroccan cabinet, well as gold, for a sand and powder “palette that is not Donato Maino. He was then left empty-handed after a Franco Albini chaise longue from the Fifties, and a Hans too light,” noted the designer, who is working with Italian the brand’s ensuing parent company, the now-defunct J. Wegner chair from the Forties. Gigli explained that he factories to produce the collection. IT Holding, sold the Gigli business in a complicated readily agreed to work with Joyce, “one of his first clients Prices range from 16,500 and 39,500 Hong Kong dol- deal involving the separation of the company and the li- in the Eighties,” indulging in “the pleasure” of designing, lars, or $2,126 and $5,090 at current exchange, for a cense for the brand, to the Luxembourg-based company with “the same attention” as in the past. coat; between 5,500 and 17,500 Hong Kong dollars, or Euroholding, Italian real estate company Immobiliare To that end, the clothes illustrate Gigli’s way with $708.8 and $2,255, for dresses and skirts, and 9,500 Hong Esse and Mood Srl. It led to the designer being shoul- delivering chic infused with a sense of controlled ex- Kong dollars, or $1,224, for capes. dered out of fashion in 2004, and producing the brand otica. He defined the collection as “timeless and season- Keith said Gigli “was always very clear that he wanted without his creative input. For fall 2009, Gigli launched less,” as his wish “has always been for designs to last to design a collection that was inspired by the grace and the short-lived Io Ipse Idem line, which was shuttered for a long time.” The items can stand independently, but beauty of Asian women. He shared wonderful·· stories after financial backers pulled the plug, followed in 2010 also can be combined easily. “I cannot imagine seeing a with us about traveling in China in the early Eighties and by the XII XII XLIX par Romeo Gigli (the numerals woman wearing my clothes the same way I put them on about how inspirational he found it. But this collection stand for his birth date of Dec. 12, 1949) in a partnership the runway,” said Gigli. is not a Chinese-referenced collection.” It is, he added, with Fuzzi, which was also a fleeting project. 8 WWD monday, may 14, 2012 WWD.COM

flexible PVc and leather totes and crocodile clutches in satu- rated reds and blues that retail accessories for $165 to $265. “I’ve found that you can A CC Skye bag. buy so many great pieces from zara and h&M, but I just couldn’t find a lot of great Bags and Baubles Go Wild accessories in the market at an affordable price point. of the main themes present in ther lounging in a golden tree When I was sourcing my By Rachel StRugatz his fall collection (and part of his branch and blanketed with vari- leathers I came across this long-standing “elements” line). ous sized colored crystals and great skin that was not only NeW YORK — the neon trend the designer’s bangles, rings gemstones, encased in a hand- approachably priced, but I is finally fading, and for fall, the and pendants comprising brass carved, and highly polished, realized that by combining latest crop of accessories are and oversize gemstones were oval-shaped lucite shell. the leather and the PVc I embracing their wild side. adorned with gunmetal-hued, “there’s a trend toward a mod- could make a product that Designers exhibiting at crystal emblazoned panthers — ern twist on romantic fantasy and was more affordable to the eNK’s accessories circuit and the overly embellished and en- masses that was still very Business Journal’s accessories crusted. there’s a swing towards chic,” Feifer said. her line the Show, held here from May quality and perceived value, and is carried at Kitson in los A CC Skye bag. 7 to 9 at the Show Piers and consumers are subconsciously de- angeles, on her Web site and A Casa del Rio handbag. the Jacob K. Javits convention manding more,” Bittar added. ioned from a combination of will be available at B.D. Jeffries A R+Y Augousti handbag. center, respectively, drew inspi- cats, both wild and domes- smooth leather and either py- in atlanta and New York look A Natalie Frigo ring. ration from animals such as pan- ticated, have been an inspira- thon or ostrich embossed leather here come fall. A Jana Feifer tote. thers or cats depicted in ancient tion and part of lower east to give the pieces the luxe look husband-and-wife design An Alexis Bittar bangle. egyptian art, with more than An Alexis Bittar Side-based Frigo’s offerings and feel of an exotic without hav- team R+Y augousti manage to An Alexis Bittar Necklace. 1,000 combined exhibitors pres- bracelet. since she introduced her col- ing to pay the price of real skins. produce mixed-material or en- Nora Kogan’s brass lips bracelet. ent — including alexis Bittar, lection in January 2010. her Messengers, cross-bodies, clutch- tirely skin handbags made from Janis by Janis Savitt, Botkier, “Playing cat” ring, made from es and satchels incorporating authentic python, water snake, elizabeth cole Jewelry, Nora recycled oxidized sterling silver these stamped leathers have be- stingray, eel, ostrich or iguana Kogan, cc Skye, R+Y augousti, with cognac diamond eyes, re- come a mainstay for the designer at prices that range from about Paige Novick, Jana Feifer, tails for $340, and varying styles since 2010, two years after she $495 for a combination python Natalie Frigo and casa del Rio. of bangles employing the same launched the category (her main and stingray minaudière, to “May continues to be a mar- and among the most sought motif retail from $270 for a re- jewelry collection launched in $665 for a zig-zag printed, struc- ket that serves a variety of after of his pieces by retailers. cycled brass version with white 2006), and the majority of the sil- tured rectangular stingray and needs for the accessories indus- he cited another selection of sapphire to $600 for sterling sil- houettes retail for under $600. shell clutch, to more than $1,000 try. the exhibitors who fare best $195 to $595 lucite and mala- ver with black diamonds. Feifer, who introduced her for a water snake tote. are those who fully embrace the chite, art-Deco-looking pieces a less literal interpretation line in 2001 with striped and ini- Newcomer casa del Rio, whose changes in the market. the May as also being popular for fall, but of the animal trend took form tial bearing leather totes, has now handbags are all made from wild market is a great barometer of the panthers were the standout. with exotic skin handbags — as relaunched with an expanded fall Florida alligator, offers classic what is really going on at retail,” “It’s Old World, but contem- evidenced by a plethora of faux, collection. She introduced $135 silhouettes that include small said Britton Jones, president porary. It looks like estate jew- embossed styles and those com- canvas totes with leather trim (her pouchettes, wristlets, clutches and chief executive officer of elry,” Bittar said, holding up the prised of authentic Florida alli- previous totes were all leather with removable crossbody chains Business Journals, Inc. $395 gold “Siyabona Reliquary” gator or stingray. and cost almost $400), faux exot- and two-toned briefcase styles that For Bittar, panthers were one pendant, containing a pan- cc Skye’s handbags are fash- ics that include python embossed range from $400 to $1,800. Ray-Ban Fetes 75th Anniversary RaY-BaN WIll quIetlY fete its 75th angeles, the campaign features seven im- birthday this year with a new collection ages styled by arianne Phillips. the pho- and advertising campaign that nods to tos capture seven historic moments, one its storied history. per decade, and span from the thirties to the ambermatic collection is in- the Nineties. Images, some of them contro- For the truly creative mind, spired by Ray-Ban’s first aviator sun- versial, include a gay couple holding hands glasses, which were released in 1937. in the Fifties, a defiant, Ray-Ban wearing the capsule collection of four aviators english socialite in the Sixties and white a good idea is just the beginning. incorporates a light-sensitive photochro- rapper performing in front of an african- mic yellow lens that darkens depending american audience in the Nineties. on light and temperature conditions. the limited edition private book, available shapes include a classic which will be available in September aviator with or without curved temple for VIP clients only, includes 18 rare tips, the shooter silhouette and the out- photographs of historic figures wearing School of Continuing and Professional Studies doorsman. all styles are gold-rimmed Ray-Bans, as well as a handful of 1,000- except the black-framed classic aviator word essays by brand influencers such as Over 3,000 courses in art, design, business, and technology. without curved temple tips. “People may not realize The shooter aviator from the that Ray-Ban first started Ambermatic collection. THIS SUMMER YOU CAN: out from a military request for pilot’s sunglasses. this • Study evenings, weekends, and online aviator style is something • Enroll in a degree or certifi cate program that was developed long ago but that continues to be nur- • Take affordable credit and noncredit courses tured by the brand with new frame materials and lens development,” • Earn 3 credits in 3 weeks said Sara Beneventi, Ray-Ban brand di- Iggy Pop, Pharrell and rector. “the relationship between Ray- Jann Wenner. called Ban and the aviator is treated with rev- “legends: untold Stories,” the book in- Go to fi tnyc.edu/wwd today to view erence. the ambermatic is a testament cludes images of Ray-Ban wearing icons to that commitment to craftsmanship and such as amelia earhart, humphrey courses and register online now, technical design.” Bogart and lauren Bacall, arthur Miller or call 888-FIT-IS-NYC x7 to One of Ray-Ban’s older styles, the and Marilyn Monroe, James Dean, John shooter includes a middle circle under F. Kennedy, Patti Smith, andy Warhol request a catalogue. the top bar, which doubled as a cigarette and Michael Jackson. holder designed to free the hands of the “Beyond the public’s perception FIT is a State University of New York college. wearer when hunting. about Ray-Ban, whether they love wear- like the shooter, the outdoorsman has ing the Wayfarer or an aviator, it’s essen- top bar and temple end pieces covered in tial to share the brand’s values, its history, nacre, but it does not include the circle. really what defines it at its core, during Set to hit Sunglass hut, henri Bendel this monumental anniversary,” said and upscale department stores in June, Fabio D’angelantonio, who is the chief the collection will retail for $219. marketing officer at luxottica, Ray-Ban’s Ray-Ban’s new “legends” ad campaign, parent company. “the pieces around which rolls out this month, will not only this anniversary, the ad campaign, the Fashion Institute of Technology stage ambermatic’s arrival, but also be a ambermatic, and ‘untold Stories,’ are curtain raiser for the brand’s private book. created to tell the brand story and serve Where creativity gets down to business. the “legends” campaign tells the as reminders of why consumers fell in 75-year spirit of the brand’s “Never love with the Ray-Ban in the first place.” hide” motto. Shot by Mark Seliger in los — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

w14a008a;8.indd 8 5/11/12 7:34 PM 05112012193520 GARMENT TALES: Leonard S. Bernstein tells Seventh Avenue WWDSTYLE stories.. PAGE 10 MEMO PAD

OPENING CEREMONY IN PRINT: Opening Ceremony will launch a collectible To the Pointe fashion and culture magazine in August, called OC Annual, WWD has learned. Each issue will center on a theme, with the debut issue focused on NEW YORK — A sports in honor of the London Olympics. starry group of dance Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have already lined enthusiasts, led by a up photographers Bruce Weber, Walter Chanel-sporting Drew Pfeiffer, Todd Cole and Tim Barber for the issue, said a rep for the duo. Barrymore, turned The partners, who also design the out for the New York Kenzo label, were traveling outside the City Ballet Spring country and unavailable for comment. In an internal memo obtained by WWD, Gala. For more, Lim wrote, “As magazine fanatics, O.C. see page 10. founder Humberto Leon and myself are aiming to create a collectible publication for a new generation, something beautiful and special in the vein of Benetton’s ‘Colors,’ Comme des Garçons’ ‘Six’ and Joe McKenna’s ‘Joe.’ We want to make a magazine that will appeal to kids in Nebraska as much as industry people.” Opening Ceremony will publish 30,000 copies of the title. The influential specialty store, which has locations in New York, Tokyo and Los Angeles, is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year and will also publish a commemorative book from Rizzoli in September with contributors including Terry Richardson, Chloë Sevigny, Alexander Wang, Ryan McGinley, Sally Singer, M.I.A. and Terence Koh. — DAVID LIPKE

PLANNING AHEAD? Giorgio Armani has been open about his reluctance to publicly list his company or take on a business partner to ensure a future for the brands that bear his name, but details about his decisions going forward remain unavailable. Italy’s weekly magazine Il Mondo last week approached this subject with a new take, speculating that the designer, who turns 78 in July, is looking into creating a social and cultural Armani Foundation. The designer, said Il Mondo, would decide “the mechanisms to appoint members of the board” that would be “unalterable,” and he would place the company’s shares in the foundation. If this new entity will eventually take shape, “there will not be a hereditary succession,” said the magazine, concluding that in the future, the foundation’s administrators and arbitrators will be the ones “in command.” A spokeswoman for the Armani group said the designer had no comment on the story. — LUISA ZARGANI

NEXT PROJECT: Nancy Berger exited her role as vice president of marketing and communications at the Project trade show on Friday, and has joined Visuality as senior vice president of sales and marketing. In her new role, she reports to Joe Shohfi, chief executive officer of Visuality, a digital wholesale marketplace and communications platform. Berger’s exit comes on the heels of Project creative adviser Nick Wooster joining J.C. Penney last month as men’s creative director. The move led to the elimination of Project Wooster, which did not generate significant revenue but was meant to create buzz and a directional halo for the show. Project declined to comment on its PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER future marketing efforts in the wake of shuttering Project Wooster. — D.L. 10 WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 Gilles Mendel with Kylie Case in J.Mendel. FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE

WWD.com/eye. EICHNER STEVE

Good Turnout BY

THE NEW YORK City Ballet color palette of white tutus and PHOTOS Spring Gala on Thursday night black tunics, company costume was a “one-time-only salute to designer Marc Happel was France” titled A La Française, inspired by a Christian Dior though it took place at the gown from 1949 called “Junon,” David Koch theater at Lincoln which featured gradated Center and everyone was far beading of varying opacity. more interested in what was Swarovski had donated crystals happening onstage than the to embellish the costumes: recent French elections. when the curtains rose on “It was incredible,” Carolyn “Symphony in C,” the audience Murphy said of the two-hour burst into applause at the program, which featured sparkle alone. three ballets and two world Millepied drew inspiration premieres: “Mes Oiseaux,” with from the Northern European choreography by Peter Martins and folk song “Lord Thomas and costumes created by J.Mendel, Fair Eleanor,” with vocalist Dawn and “Two Hearts,” choreographed Landes performing the ballad from by Benjamin Millepied and costumed the orchestra pit. Laura and Kate by Rodarte. Mulleavy’s designs were black and “Peter [Martins] told me white and rather athletic, off the that he wanted something very shoulder and featuring cut out emotional [for ‘Mes Oiseaux’],” panels at the waist for some of the current face of Miss Dior Gilles Mendel said of his three the female dancers, with sheer Chérie perfume, the house was a costume designs, which employed black-striped skirts exposing cosponsor of the gala along with illusion netting and dark swirling white leotard bottoms that looked Swarovski. Deeda Blair, David and slashes across the torsos, and almost like tennis underpants. Julia Koch, Waris Ahluwalia and Fe ended in abbreviated flared black The men wore sleeveless white Fendi were also among partygoers. skirts with either red, fuchsia, shirts and looser-fitting white “It was insanely gorgeous,” or green underlay. “It’s hard to pants with thick black stripes. said Jill Kargman, whose do something emotional with “There was definitely tablemates included her only three [dancers] — I wanted a sporty influence,” Kate brother Will Kopelman and his to make them seductive, though Mulleavy nodded. The sisters fiancée Drew Barrymore. they are quite young looking, I designed the ballet costumes “Oh, they’re the cutest,” wanted to give them a graphic for 2010 film “Black Swan,” Kargman sighed of the couple. moment, an elegant moment, where their choreographer “They’re just so happy. It makes to show off the beauty of their had met his wife, the evening’s us all happy.” Kargman was bodies and their dancing.” honorary gala chair Natalie squired by her husband Harry, The evening also marked Portman, who was present but whose sister Bess Kargman had just the return, after a four year rather press shy. premiered her directorial debut absence, of the much beloved “I’m not — ” she said of “First Position,” a documentary “Symphony in C,” with discussing her husband’s ballet, about young dancers preparing original George Balanchine before heading for her dining for the Youth America Grand Benjamin eye choreography and slightly companions amidst the French Prix. Was he sick of ballet? “Not Millepied with amped-up costumes. Sticking Garden inspired interior of yet,” Kargman smiled. Natalie Portman Deeda to the original Balanchine the promenade. Portman is — ALESSANDRA CODINHA in Dior Couture. Blair

Barbie looks AQUINO from the FIT

students. JOHN BY Weaving Narratives

PHOTO THERE HAVE ALWAYS he occasionally steals a pen been plenty of characters on from a buyer to prove to his Seventh Avenue. People with AQUINO boss that he is out there,

bigger-than-life personalities JOHN pounding the pavement,

abound. But there are hardly BY trying to sell. His collection any literary characters from of 29 pens becomes a the Garment District — at PHOTO touchstone for the manager, least until now. a reminder of the importance Leonard S. Bernstein — of a personal connection over who took over Candlesticks a business decision. Inc., his family’s children’s As perhaps the lone writer wear business, in 1953 — of fiction centered on the has penned a book of short Garment District, Bernstein stories, most of which weave opens a window on a world in and out of small New York that in large part has passed. windows and model-size rooms apparel manufacturers. In “You can learn about our (for Barbie’s Dream House, of “The Man Who Wanted to Buy heritage, and even though course) inspired by the doll, a Heart” (University of New this is fiction, everything is with the top five submissions Orleans Press), Bernstein, 80, true, everything could have Think in each category showcased remembers fondly the quirks happened even if it didn’t,” the in the exhibition. The winners and the failings and what he author says. were unveiled in a ceremony sees as the nobility of the “That was a different following the opening and Garment District of the Fifties Leonard S. world, the old world of the Pink rewarded cash prizes. “I haven’t and Sixties. Bernstein apparel industry,” Bernstein taken out a Barbie since I was “It was nontech,” says recalls. “It was easier. You PROPRIETOR OF PINK and 10, so it was so fun to get my Bernstein, who hammered didn’t have to be so brilliant. paragon of all things girly, hands on one again,” said Elyse out the manuscript on his old even those who aren’t very Everything was small and Barbie is back on the fashion Falato, who won first place, manual typewriter. “It was good at their jobs, find a place it was a little easier for scene. Mattel’s crown jewel is $5,000, in visual presentation for dirty. It was sloppy. Very often for themselves in the warrens somebody like me to get a the subject of “Playing with her storefront design, a hot pink the manufacturers didn’t know of the Garment District. grip on it and do OK, and so I Fashion,” a two-story installation and sparkly jewelry box, Barbie exactly what they were doing “You are forgetting what did, and I had a good time. at the Fashion Institute of twirling in its center. or how to do it right, but it Shakespeare and Wordsworth “Maybe I’m overly nostalgic, Technology’s Fred P. Pomerantz Along with Mattel executives was a good time in New York, said about the poetry of but I kind of miss it,” he says. Art and Design Center, which Peter Helenek and Jim Holmes, a good time in America. We age,” says one of Bernstein’s “There was a certain decency, opened Thursday night. Joe Zee, Elle’s creative director hired, people worked, they creations, Simon Englehart, a certain straightforwardness. FIT seniors in the fashion and an FIT alum, judged. earned a living. It was honest as he pitches for a job as a Now the world, the New design, interior design, jewelry “I always say Barbie was my and, in fairness, the wind was salesman. “You are forgetting York commercial world, is a design, photography and visual first styling client,” Zee said. in our sails.” about style, grace and nobility.” little bit extremely high tech, presentation programs were “She was the first woman who let Many of the book’s 17 stories Englehart gets the job, extremely sophisticated. A challenged to create clothes, me dress her up any way that I reach out for some sort of but his poetic soul doesn’t little shifty, if you will.” accessories, photos, storefront wanted.” — TAYLOR HARRIS common decency. Characters, connect with the market, so — EVAN CLARK WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 11 WWD.COM

naturally as I was living my life. Montauk FASHION SCOOPS on the beach, New York for fashion week, Paris with my love...so many great memories.” The portfolio will be online exclusively today on Reedkrakoff.com. cake in the shape of her latest — KRISTI GARCED fragrance, Glowing. He had plenty to GOIZÉ FRANÇOIS BY PHOTO be emotional — perhaps, even giddy TIPPER HONORED: Tonight, the Flawless — about: Starting with Glow by JLo Foundation will host its annual Perfection in 2002, the partnership has been one Party at Le Cirque restaurant recognizing of the most successful in fragrance Tipper Gore, former second lady of the history, netting 18 fragrances sold in U.S., author and mental health advocate 25 countries and almost $2 billion as an honorary chair. Fashion model in retail sales. And the money keeps and philanthropic activist, Sara DeAnna, rolling in. Glowing, which entered all author of “Model Skinny” will be a special 1,100 Kohl’s doors about four weeks guest. Al Gore is expected to attend, as ago, is performing 147 percent above well as Karenna Gore, Kristen Gore, Agapi plan, according to Lopez. “It’s really Stassinopoulos, Pierre Hauser, and the Hon. mind-blowing, but I’m very proud,” Patrick Kennedy, among others. A cocktail she said of her decade-long fragrance reception and dinner prepared by Chef reign. — RACHEL BROWN Olivier Reginensi are on tap. The Flawless

PHOTO BY ALASTAIR GRANT/PA WIRE/PRESS ASSOCIATION IMAGES ASSOCIATION WIRE/PRESS GRANT/PA ALASTAIR BY PHOTO Foundation helps children living with HIPSTERS SCENE: Levi’s on Thursday brain-based, behavioral challenges. night transformed the basement of — LISA LOCKWOOD its new Champs-Elysées flagship into a nightclub, with French electro DJ- Cara and Poppy ROCK, SCISSORS AND...: Word has it that producer Pedro Winter and American Delevingnge Louis Vuitton, which earlier this year musician James Murphy serving up confirmed it would extend its brand into thumping electro beats. Skinny jeans perfume, is also plotting a move into sta- was the main dress code, with young jacket exclusive to the Paris store from tionery. According to sources, the French guests roaming around the denim- Winter and Murphy’s limited-edition leather goods powerhouse — which al- The Duke and stacked industrial space slurping beers line for the brand. “I feel like I’m in New ready markets some pens, agendas, travel Duchess of and eating curry bagels and hotdogs. York,” enthused Charteris, adding that guides and notebooks — plans to pump up Cambridge The tailor shop in the VIP area on the she loves mixing up Levi’s pieces with its writing category with paper goods and site’s second floor had been turned other stuff. “My aunt [Daphne Guinness] only related paraphernalia. It is understood into a bar. wears white jeans, she never wears [blue] the product initiative is tied to the ambi- OLYMPIAN EFFORTS: The Duke and Duchess Guests included Lou Lesage, Jess denim. She should, I’m sure she did when tious forthcoming expansion of its bou- of Cambridge kicked off the 2012 Olympic Mills, Poppy and Cara Delevingne and Mary she was my age,” she said. tique at Saint-Germain-des-Prés, a neigh- celebrations in London, attending a Charteris, who was dressed in a vintage “We are taking more risks from a borhood on the Left Bank whose famous black-tie gala at the Royal Albert Hall floral print frock paired with a trucker fashion viewpoint,” commented Erik Joule, cafes and booksellers have long been a on Friday night in honor of British the brand’s senior vice president of global magnet for famous writers. Vuitton offi- athletes. The duchess wore a teal Jenny merchandising and design. Levi’s intends cials could not immediately be reached for Packham dress to the event, where to take a more refined point of view with comment. — WWD Staff her husband told athletes: “Glory a collection set to launch this summer awaits you. You, our Olympians and made from Scottish Harris Tweed, he NEW CEO: YGM Trading, Aquascutum’s new Paralympians, will inspire people said. — KATYA FOREMAN Hong Kong-based owners, has named Tim up and down this country, and far Dally chief executive officer of the brand, beyond its borders.” The event was GOIZÉ FRANÇOIS BY PHOTO THE TRAVELING BOXER BAG: Reed Krakoff and which will remain based in London. YGM called Our Greatest Team Rises, and Garance Doré, the fashion photographer, finalized its purchase of the U.K. arm of featured performances by the dance illustrator and blogger, had a meeting of Aquascutum last week, buying the brand group Spelbound, Take That singer Gary the minds for their newest project, which name and assets for 15 million pounds, or Barlow, and Will Young. — SAMANTHA CONTI involves the designer’s classic Boxer bag. $24.2 million at current exchange. Doré photographed the bag in a variety The administrators for Aquascutum, JLO’S GLOW DAY: “It’s a very emotional of different backdrops during her travels FRP Advisory LLP, said they are moment,” said Coty chief executive spanning New York, Paris, London, Milan continuing to deal with interested parties officer Bernd Beetz Thursday evening and Marrakech, resulting in a visual play regarding a sale of the Aquascutum at the Hotel Bel-Air in Los Angeles, on fashion, geography and displacement. factory in Corby, England. They said where the beauty company marked Levi’s flagship gets a “It’s the kind of bag you get so attached discussions are also taking place in the 10th anniversary of its partnership nightclub feel. to that you end up taking it everywhere relation to the Aquascutum concessions with Jennifer Lopez with an enormous you go,” she said. “The pictures came in Spain and Canada. — S.C. All Hail the Bale cashmere, vicuna and the lotus flower By DAVID MOIN fabric, last week the spotlight was on For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. wool and how the Loro Piana contest NEW YORK — As Pier Luigi Loro spurs breeders to produce finer, higher- Piana sees it, the World Wool Record quality fiber each year. Challenge Cup determining the world’s He presented Susanne Triplett, who finest wool is not simply for the sake of breeds sheep on her 120-acre farm Spaces competition. in Tumbarumba, New South Wales, “We wouldn’t want to do a contest Australia, with the World Record Bale COMMERCIAL without building some real meaning Award for a bale of wool with fiber mea- REAL ESTATE into it,” the chief executive officer of suring 11.1 microns in diameter. The PRODUCTION MGR ...... $75-110K SALES-PERSON WANTED Loro Piana said Thursday night at the thinner the diameter, the softer the Intimates, Bra construction a must MODERATE MISSY SPORTSWEAR Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 IMPORTER SEEKS A HARDWORK- Metropolitan Club here, scene of a lav- wool. It also drapes better. “Breeding [email protected] ING SHOWROOM SALESPERSON. SALARY & COMMISSION. EMAIL ish evening orchestrated by the Italian sheep is very hard work — seven days RESUME. [email protected] luxury label to honor the winner of its a week,” Triplett confided. “And every Showrooms & Lofts 2011 wool challenge. Though the com- morning I have to give George a little BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS pany has equally strong reputations in scratch under his chin. If I don’t, he just Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 keeps crying,” Triplett added, referring to one of her favorites in the flock. The event included performances by tenor Piero Mazzocchetti, flau- tist Andrea Griminelli and the Matt Herskowitz jazz trio. MS. ASHLEY ACCESSORIES Loro Piana has been honoring breed- Once in a while the perfect side line comes along. Now is one of those ers for 15 years with its award, decided times. Short hot scarf line available in by a jury of presidents of the Superfine PATTERNS, SAMPLES, June. 20% comm. Many areas availa- PRODUCTIONS ble. Contact Bruce at 913 888 4086. Wool Growers’ Association and the di- Full service shop to the trade. [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 rector of the New Zealand Merino Stud Breeders society. Loro Piana purchases Millard “Mickey” Drexler the record bale and eventually manufac- and Pier Luigi Loro Piana tures it into 40 to 50 bespoke suits. The (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] examining the record bale fabrics. award ceremony is staged in different cities each year. 12 WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 WWD.COM No End in Sight for Euro-Zone Woes

sociation Fondazione Altagamma, {Continued from page one} said the market is looking in- Hermès’ Thomas warned that creasingly like an hourglass, with turmoil in Europe could weigh luxury and the branded mass Feeling Financially Insecure on revenues going forward, al- market at each end, and the mid- though he is still projecting a dle market shrinking. 10 percent to 11 percent rise in According to research by The percentage of respondents who said they felt “in financial trouble” or “not sales this year, thanks to emerg- Altagamma Consensus, luxury financially secure” in The Boston Consulting Group’s Global Consumer Sentiment Survey. ing markets such as China. and accessories sales are ex- Despite his gloomy outlook, pected to grow 10 percent in Thomas will be one of retail’s 2012, and apparel is forecast to RESPONDENTS 60% winners this year as the gulf gain 6.5 percent. Luxury and NOT FINANCIALLY 51% SECURE widens between strong, geo- accessories sales in the U.S. IN FINANCIAL 48% graphically diversified compa- are expected to gain 7 percent; 45% 45% TROUBLE nies with cash on their balance Latin America 14 percent; 41% sheets and the weak ones with Japan 2 percent; Asia 16.5 per- 33% debts and shrinking sales, be- cent; the Middle East 8.75 per- 30% 34% 41% tween the still-purring luxury cent, and Europe 3.75 percent. 34% 27% 36% and branded fashion ends of Branchini also said that “ab- 24% the market and the endangered solute luxury,” or brands such as 16% middle market. Harry Winston, Hermès, Brioni The average European is in no and Loro Piana, are growing at 12% 14% 14% mood to shop, and would rather an even faster rate than “aspira- 9% 11% 10% 9% 4% save: According to Eurostat, the tional luxury,” or brands such as 0% European Commission’s statis- Gucci and Louis Vuitton. U.S. FRANCE GERMANY ITALY SPAIN U.K. CHINA tics office, household savings There is no greater illustra- increased by 13.7 percent in the tion of the hourglass metaphor fourth quarter of 2011, while dis- than the PPR results last month: posable income fell by 0.4 percent. The retail-to-luxury reported

In March, unemployment in that revenues rose 15.4 percent the euro zone reached a record in the first quarter, powered by high, hitting 10.9 percent for the sales at brands including Gucci, consumers — rather than flush is out. In France, it is unclear very flexible businesspeople first time in 15 years. But it’s not Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega foreigners from growing econo- how much the fiscal policies of and they have always per- only the unemployed who have Veneta. Puma and the retailer mies — are suffering. president-elect Hollande, who formed well despite deeply re- reined in spending. Fnac, however, registered disap- Over the past six months, U.K. has vowed to slap a 75 percent strictive labor laws.” He does

“People who have jobs are pointing performances. retailers — including Argos, tax rate on high earners and not believe there will be a mass worried about keeping them, Italy offered up a case study French Connection and Arcadia raise taxes on luxury goods, will exodus of the rich, either: “The and often they are supporting of its own, with Tod’s posting an Group — have all reported they damage the economy. French love being in France,” grown kids who may still be liv- 8 percent spike in first-quarter are ready to re-negotiate rental he claimed. ing at home, and who may never revenues, while the midmarket agreements or shutter unprofit- Jamie Merriman, a re- work,” said Nick Hood, an insol- accessories maker Geox saw able stores in the wake of falling search analyst who specializes vency expert and head·· of exter- sales in the same period sink sales and profits. in European general retail at nal affairs at the London-based 4.4 percent due to a slowdown And those U.K. companies Sanford C. Bernstein in London, Company Watch, which tracks in demand in Italy, Europe and are not alone: In April, euro- -0.3% is not fussed about the threat of firms’ financial health. “This is North America. zone retail sales fell at their a luxury goods tax either. “A tax an issue right across Europe, Luxury — and branded mass strongest pace since November THE EUROPEAN COMMISSION’S could actually help value-ori- and the fear is particularly per- apparel — are also benefiting 2008, according to the finan- PROJECTION FOR GROWTH IN THE ented retailers if consumers de- nicious for midrange spenders hugely from domestic Chinese cial information services firm cided to trade down,” she said. ECONOMIES OF THE 17 EURO- and midmarket retailers.” consumers and Chinese tour- Markit, which highlighted a Tax or no tax, Merriman and Italian consumers, in particu- ists who love nothing more than “worryingly steep downturn on ZONE COUNTRIES THIS YEAR. her team believe the branded lar, are feeling insecure about spending their yuan on Western the high street.” mass market still has sub- their financial situation, according brand names and status sym- In a separate report pub- stantial growth ahead of it. to The Boston Consulting Group’s bols, and mixing and matching lished earlier this month, In a conference call earlier Markit’s chief economist Chris In London, the Evening this month, Bernstein’s ana- Williamson said, “Business and Standard newspaper is already lysts said they believe Inditex consumer confidence appears talking about an exodus of rich and Hennes & Mauritz will be to have deteriorated markedly French to the British capital. “long-term winners, given su- across the [European] region In a recent story, “Paristocrats perior business models, higher People who have jobs are since the uplift seen at the start are Coming,” ES said real es- emerging-market exposure and of the year, suggesting that stim- tate agents in London have seen sustainable space growth.” ulus measures implemented a substantial uptick in French Merriman also said she’s ex- worried about keeping by the European Central Bank citizens hunting for high-priced pecting the 50 percent drop in have not had a lasting impact homes in South Kensington, cotton prices to filter through on the real economy.” Wandsworth and Battersea Park to retailers in the second half of them, and often they are While many countries in in an attempt to get their money the year, possibly driving retail the euro zone are suffering the out of the country and avoid the prices down. pain of austerity and unemploy- dreaded tax increases. Other industry observers are supporting grown kids who ment, others are still working — Others are not so concerned less sure about the future of re- and consuming. about the left-leaning Hollande, tail consumption in Europe. Lillian von Stauffenberg, who on Tuesday will meet “We learned that in 2008 the may still be living at home, managing director of the brand- German chancellor Angela luxury market was not complete- ing, consulting and public rela- Merkel to discuss their respec- ly insulated from turmoil in the tions firm Finch & Partners in tive views on how to lead Europe financial markets,” said James London, said luxury brands are out of its crisis. Hollande favors Lawson, a director at Ledbury and who may never work. investing heavily in China, but growth and job creation, while Research, the market research are also putting their marketing Merkel continues to favor fiscal firm that tracks wealthy consum- — NICK HOOD, COMPANY WATCH dollars into Germany. discipline and beat the austerity ers’ behavior. “For the wealthy, it’s “It’s not a new market, but drum — although the Germans not simply about whether they can it has a healthy economy — have begun showing signs they afford to buy, but whether they can comparatively speaking — and might be willing to compromise be seen to be buying, whether they Global Consumer Sentiment high- and low-end labels. has very little unemployment. somewhat on their penny-pinch- are comfortable consuming when Survey, taken last month and set Last month, the Italian luxu- People are still spending. And ing ways in order to help boost there are cutbacks from austerity to be released today. ry men’s wear and textile label not all of Germany’s cities have the European economy. measures,” he said. Fifty-one percent of the peo- Ermenegildo Zegna posted re- been saturated with brands,” “A lot of what we heard dur- Paul Alger, director of in- ple taking the survey in Italy cord sales of $1.47 billion, with she said. ing the past months in France ternational affairs at the U.K. said they felt either “not finan- nearly half coming from Asia, According to Germany’s was electioneering,” said Hood Fashion and Textile Association, cially secure” or “in financial and China in particular. During Federal Statistics Office, the of Company Watch. “I don’t believes there are more hard trouble.” The same held true China’s 2012 Spring Festival in country’s exports grew for the think a luxury-goods tax hike times to come. for 45 percent of respondents January, the Chinese spent 6 third month in a row, rising 0.9 is going to stop French women “There is still a lot of insecu- in both the U.K. and Germany, billion euros, or $7.8 billion, on percent in March and helping to from buying gorgeous linge- rity, and I don’t think we’ve seen 41 percent of respondents in luxury goods,·· the bulk of which steer the country clear of reces- rie. And even if Hollande does the end of the contraction in the Spain and 33 percent of those was purchased outside China. sion, which has blighted so many slacken off austerity and enact market,” he said. “People are surveyed in France. Meanwhile, midmarket retail- other European economies. measures to boost growth, hurting across the boards, and Armando Branchini, executive ers in the U.K. and Continental As for the longer-term impact French businesses will do just the political elite do not have director of Italy’s luxury goods as- Europe that depend on domestic of the euro-zone storms, the jury fine. The French are very good, the answers.”