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Romeo Returns OLYMPIAN BIG IN BEIJING EFFORT ALEXANDER WANG OPENS A THE DUKE AND DUCHESS OF FLAGSHIP IN THE CHINESE CAMBRIDGE CAPITAL AND IT’S HIS PUMP UP BIGGEST STORE YET. PAGE 4 THE LONDON GAMES. PAGE 11 CONSUMER CAUTION Fashion World Feels Euro-Zone’s Woes By SAMANTHA CONTI LONDON — It’s sure no fun being a European these days. WWD Political upheaval in France and Greece, renewed worries over the future of the euro, a welter of de- pressing economic news, rising unemployment and MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY no clear exit from the Europe-wide financial crisis are all taking their toll on retail — and the consumer psyche — from London to Frankfurt, Paris to Athens. Even before the French elected François Hollande, a tax-the-rich Socialist, as their presi- dent, and before talks to form a new Greek govern- ment collapsed Sunday — adding to concerns that the austerity-weary country could exit the euro zone — Hermès chief executive officer Patrick Thomas, summed up what he thinks the future holds for European brands. “It is going to be a very difficult year,” he said, even as he reported a 21.9 percent spike in first- quarter revenues to $1.02 billion. “The beginning was easy…but the trend is not good.” The most recent economic projections in Europe back him up: On Friday, the European Commission confirmed its projection of a 0.3 percent contraction in the economies of the 17 euro-zone countries this year. Growth of 1 percent is expected in 2013. Last Thursday, the Bank of France projected zero growth for the country in the first six months of the year, compared with 0.2 percent growth in the fourth quarter of 2011. SEE PAGE 12 Bergdorf’s to Fete Birthday By JEAN E. PALMIERI NEW YORK — Bergdorf Goodman is preparing to throw itself a big birthday bash this fall. The luxury retailer turns 111 years old this year and will celebrate with a series of special events in- cluding a documentary film, a book and an anniversa- ry collection of more than 100 exclusive products. The theme of the event will play off the numbers of its age — 111 — and is being touted as “one store, one city, Romeo one experience.” This is the first birthday Bergdorf has marked since 1951; its centennial fell in 2001, the year of the terrorist attacks on New York City, and was not commemorated. The celebration will kick off Sept. 6 during the fourth annual Fashion’s Night Out with designer appearances Returns and the debut at retail of the anniversary collection. Among the brands that are creating special mer- MILAN — The Italian designer, best known for his Eighties chandise are Alexander McQueen, which designed a ruched velvet dress; Christian Louboutin, which is collections of chic clothes with a controlled sense of doing pyramid-studded platforms; evening looks from exotica, is back for fall. Romeo Gigli has teamed with Oscar de la Renta and Akris, and even an exclusive the influential retailer Joyce for a men’s and women’s perfume called 754 from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. In men’s, Giorgio Armani has re-created a mod- collection that, in his words, is “timeless and season- ern version of the “American Gigolo” suit as well less.” Here, a look from the new line, photographed in as a midnight blue dinner jacket. Isaia has pro- Gigli’s Milan apartment. For more, including an interview duced an exploded plaid peacoat, Brioni offered a gray velvet dinner jacket with a lining inspired with the designer, see pages 6 and 7. by Bergdorf ’s packaging, Ermenegildo Zegna in- corporated the store’s signature lavender color into the chalkstripe of a navy suit, Michael Bastian screen-printed the Sherman Monument from New York’s Grand Army Plaza onto a white oxford shirt and Ferragamo produced ties that incorporate an illustration of the store along with the Statue of Liberty and other iconic images from the city. Other participants include Loro Piana, Kiton, Moncler, Paul Smith, Deakin and Francis, Jan Leslie, Lois Sasson, Jimmy Choo, Magnanni and Prada. Ginny Hershey-Lambert, executive vice president of merchandising, stressed that the merchandise cre- ated for the anniversary is more than just tweaks of PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE existing product. “When we approached our vendors, SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD MONDAY, MAY 14, 2012 Parsons, PPR Link for Contest the Briefing Box best time,” said collins. it’s conceivable that the By Lisa Lockwood winners could do the internship before starting their in Today’s WWd full-time job. He said one student will win for ready- NEw YoRk — PPR, Parsons The New school for to-wear and one student will win for accessories. design and The Fancy have joined forces to give “The opportunity for our students to work with Parsons students the chance to win an internship such an esteemed roster of premier brands in both A spring 1986 look within one of the luxury group’s 16 brands. the luxury and sport and lifestyle sectors will pro- from Romeo Gigli. students’ work will be featured on The Fancy, a vide these students with the additional experience web site that’s part magazine, part that will all but guarantee shopping guide and part social net- them a strong start to their work. The two winners of the competi- careers,” said collins. tion will also be showcased at Barneys “Partnering with PPR and New York’s Madison avenue store in The Fancy will provide our september. The competition is focused students with an interna- on PPR’s defining theme, “Empowering tional perspective, thus imagination,” and is designed to stimu- positioning them as design late new ideas at the PPR brands. thinkers poised to lead among PPR’s divisions are Gucci, fashion globally” Bottega Veneta, Yves saint Laurent, Joseph Einhorn, found- alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, er of TheFancy.com, said, Archive WWD by Photo Brioni, stella Mccartney, sergio “we are looking forward Rossi, Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, to seeing what the bright- Political upheaval in France and Greece renewed worries JeanRichard, Puma, Volcom, cobra, est young designers in over the future of the euro. PAGE 1 Electric and Tretorn. the world are dreaming “PPR seeks to build bridges between up at Parsons.” Bergdorf Goodman turns 111 years old this year and the education and business communi- The top 20 candidates will celebrate with a documentary film, a book and a ties within the fashion industry, and selected by Parsons will collection of more than 100 exclusive products. PAGE 1 highlight its brands as drivers of creativ- present their work today to ity,” said Laurent claquin, head of PPR a panel of fashion-industry The men’s and women’s Joyce by Romeo Gigli in the americas. “The Fancy and PPR’s insiders, including collins, collection for fall will be unveiled on Joyce’s online partnership with the school of Fashion claquin and Einhorn, as at Parsons will help to inspire and foster well as dennis Freedman store on July 1. PAGE 1 the world’s future design generations by of Barneys, candy Pratts empowering imagination.” Price of Vogue and dree PPR, Parsons The New School for Design and The competition is open to the Hemingway, model and The Fancy have joined forces to give Parsons current senior class of Parsons BFa actress. The panelists will students the chance for an internship within one Fashion design program. students Parsons’ seniors, review the students’ work of PPR’s 16 brands. PAGE 2 in the areas of women’s and men’s whose work is shown and select five finalists who ready-to-wear and accessories will here, will compete best exemplify the theme. Manolo Blahnik has inked a long-term deal with for a PPR internship. compete for internships based on the LeccA DAN by Photo in mid-June, the finalists Kurt Geiger to sell the brand at Harrods and Liberty quality and conceptual vision of their will have their collections in London. PAGE 3 thesis collections, from the garments themselves to featured on The Fancy, and the winning look and their portfolios and visual collateral. accessory, voted on by the public, will be awarded Camuto Group, the master licensee of the Jessica simon collins, dean of the school of Fashion at an expense-paid internship of up to $10,000 with the Simpson Collection, has signed a deal with Destination Parsons, said the internship, which will run for one PPR brand of their choice. The winners will be re- Maternity to design, produce and distribute maternity to two months, could take place in London, Paris, vealed at the end of June. The partnership will be apparel bearing Simpson’s name. PAGE 3 New York, Boston, Rome or Milan.“it’s flexible. celebrated with a private event hosted by The Fancy They’ll be working with the brand to figure out the during Fashion’s Night out in september. Ray-Ban will quietly fete its 75th birthday this year with a new collection and advertising campaign that nods to its storied history. PAGE 8 Avon Weighing Coty Request to See Books The New York City Ballet Spring Gala was a “one-time- only salute to France” titled A La Française. PAGE 9 aVoN PRoducTs iNc. every so billion offer on april 2 and Becht a former Johnson & Johnson ex- slightly opened the door to coty has been appealing to the firm’s ecutive, recently took over as Italy’s weekly magazine Il Mondo last week speculated inc. sunday, saying it would take shareholders, saying that only chief executive officer from that Giorgio Armani is looking into creating a social and a week to consider the compa- with a look at the company’s books andrea Jung and is reviewing the cultural Armani Foundation.
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