Spring PETRIFIED FOREST: A Playground for Wildlife Baseball’s Back! arizonahighways.com march 2003 MARCH 2003 page 50 COVER NATURE 55 GENE PERRET’S WIT STOP 6 14 If you’d like a good Surprise, drive northwest of Survival in the Grasslands A Bevy of Blooms Phoenix — and don’t ask Why. Preserving masked bobwhite quail and and Butterflies pronghorn antelope also rebuilds the habitat 44 HUMOR at Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge. Delicate-winged beauties and dazzling floral displays await at the Phoenix Desert Botanical 2 LETTERS AND E-MAIL Garden’s Butterfly Pavilion. 22 PORTFOLIO 46 DESTINATION Arizona’s in Love with INDIANS Lowell Observatory 18 Visitors get telescope time, too, at this noted Baseball Spring Training Butterfly Myths institution, home to 27 full-time astronomers doing pioneering research. The Cactus League’s 10 major league teams The gentle, fluttering insects take on varied have a devoted following, including visitors symbolic roles in many Indian cultures. 3 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP from out of state. Explore Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures. HISTORY TRAVEL 32 54 EXPERIENCE ARIZONA 38 Hike a Historic Trail Go on a hike or pan for gold in Apache Junction to Life in a Stony Landscape Retrace the southern Arizona route of Spain’s commemorate treasure hunting in the Superstition Come spring, the Petrified Forest National Juan Bautista de Anza, who led the 18th-century Mountains; help the Tohono O’odham Indians celebrate Park is abuzz with critters and new plants. colonization of San Francisco. their heritage and see their arts and crafts in Ajo; and enjoy the re-enactment of mountain man skills in Oatman. 49 ALONG THE WAY Hal Empie, Arizona’s much-admired pharmacist-artist, helped us see the humor in our lives and the beauty in our land. 50 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE [THIS PAGE] Evening sunlight Six Mile Crossing at Burro Creek filtered through clouds washes The rough, primitive backcountry route will take you to the Pinaleno Mountains with abundant riparian discoveries. muted lavender tones in southeastern Arizona’s Coronado National Forest. 56 HIKE OF THE MONTH DAVID W. LAZAROFF Sterling Pass Trail Grand Canyon [FRONT COVER] Following spring National Park Sterling Pass Trail in Oak rains at the Buenos Aires Lowell Observatory National Wildlife Refuge in Creek Canyon is steep, Burro southern Arizona, summer Creek Petrified Forest tough and swathed in Oak Creek National Park poppies abound in grassland history of a cowboy rustler Canyon below distant Baboquivari Peak. SURPRISE See story, page 6. JACK DYKINGA and counterfeiter. [BACK COVER] They look like a PHOENIX jumble of logs in a streambed, but you can’t burn these TUCSON specimens of petrified wood at Blue Mesa in the Petrified Forest Buenos Aires Natl. TUBAC POINTS OF Wildlife Refuge National Park in northeastern INTEREST Tumacacori Natl. Arizona. See story, page 38. FEATURED IN Historical Park THIS ISSUE LARRY ULRICH and e-mail takingthe MARCH 2003 VOL. 79, NO. 3 Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures Publisher WIN HOLDEN Editor ROBERT J. EARLY off-ramp Senior Editor BETH DEVENY Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Research Editor MARY PRATT Great Staff filled the theater many times with audiences for Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH and included THIS MONTH IN Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL My October issue arrived, as usual a joy with its her dance revues. In 1937, her “Ritzi-Rhythms” representations Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER ARIZONA superb photography and fascinating stories and sold out two nights and turned away more than Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK of Arizona’s rich legends from cover to cover. “This Month In 200. The Douglas Arts and Humanities Association Indian heritage: a Art Director MARY WINKELMAN VELGOS Arizona” and “Question of the Month” are nuggets deserves applause for restoring this treasure. Deputy Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY black arrowhead ARIZONA STATE ARCHIVES STATE ARIZONA Tucson opens its of interesting information. Also, thanks for Cindy Hayostek’s article about Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP bearing a white 1872 Associate Art Director BETH ANDERSON first permanent I was impressed with your title of the article John Slaughter and his ranch. Cindy is a Art Assistant PAULY HELLER swastika in its center. public school. Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY On the Road Again, Students’ “Sealed Secret.” The eye-catching arrangement of knowledgeable source of Cochise County history. The swastika, known as a parents donate the letters is an example of super artistry and LEONA BOND BEll, Redmond, WA Arizona Highways Books “whirling log,” was widely used by switches and ® Without Swastikas deserves extra credit from every reader. Your fine WitWorks Books Navajo, Hopi, Pima and other urge the teachers Editor BOB ALBANO not to spare magazine is truly blessed with a very special staff. Paria Canyon Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL hen Arizona’s old State Arizona Indian tribes in their rugs, the rod. Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON BARBARA LEAVITT, Woburn, MA Last September I was gathering gear and supplies Highway Commission baskets, pottery and Thank you for noticing. Art Director Mary Velgos for an upcoming backpack trip when the October Production Director CINDY MACKEY introduced silver work. The Production Coordinator KIM ENSENBERGER W designed the layout. issue of Arizona Highways arrived. A glance at the Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON its first numbered ancient symbol 1872Tucson citizens lynch four cover immediately caught my attention because Webmaster VICKY SNOW highway system in signified well-being, 4 IN TERMINAL PENCIL, ON DISPLAY ACRYLIC/COLORED MIROCHA, PAUL outlaws in front Ned White Remembered the lead article was about my destination, Paria Marketing Director 1927, travelers drove prosperity and of the jailhouse. Thank you for the story about Ned White, the bard Canyon. Ruth Rudner’s account of her hike was PATRICIA POWERS-ZERMEÑO on little more than friendship. of Brewery Gulch (“Taking the Off-ramp,” October refreshing and held my interest by telling of the Circulation Director LEE FRANKLIN dirt tracks that made Sometime in the Sky Harbor: ’02). His parents, Annie and Patrick, were at Fort beauty and awe she felt in the canyon. Finance Director ROBERT M. STEELE up 17 state routes early 1940s, Arizona Have Art, Will Fly 1888Three Vulture McDowell in the 1870s and ranched on the west My trip is finished now, and although I didn’t totaling 1,954 miles. highway officials Mine guards Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT are stopped bank of the Verde River north of the Army fort and happen to get stuck in quicksand, I can empathize Early road maps prudently removed ow that travelers are spending FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES and killed on the road to one mile east of my home. In 1880 the Army with her lament about wet feet. OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: and state highway MUSEUM HEARD 1920, NAVAJO, KLAH, HOSTEEN the swastika from more time than ever waiting Phoenix. A bar burned their home for unknown reasons. My photos will never stand up to a comparison Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 markers didn’t always highway signs for airplanes, Phoenix Sky In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., N of gold is Ned was born at Camp Russell, Wyoming. He was with David Muench’s, but they will serve to Call (602) 712-2000 jibe, leaving motorists after Adolph Hitler Harbor International Airport offers stolen. Calamity Jane’s godson. He was also a deputy sheriff enhance my memories of one of the most beautiful Or visit us online at: to wonder where they and the Nazi party a diversion that involves neither arizonahighways.com in Tombstone only a few years after Wyatt Earp. and spectacular places I have ever visited. had taken a wrong turn. sullied this once-revered shopping nor sipping. The Sky For Corporate or Trade Sales ROBERT MASON, Rio Verde BARBARA PATTEE, Colorado Springs, CO Call (602) 712-2050 According to a 1927 Arizona symbol. Members of the Navajo, Harbor Art Program ranks among 1898The General Land Office rules E-MAIL “LETTERS TO THE EDITOR”: Highways article explaining the Apache, Hopi and Papago (now the largest American airport art that cutting More on Moore Austrian Travelers [email protected] numbering system, the state route Tohono O’odham) tribes renounced exhibits, totaling more than 200 mesquite on government I have heard of “editorial license,” but you went Fans of Arizona Highways are even to be found in Regular Mail: markers, framed in the shape of the its use in their blankets, baskets, permanent works and 15 exhibition Editor property is one step too far. The picture accompanying the tiny Austria. I’ve subscribed to your magazine 2039 W. Lewis Ave. state, announced the route number art objects and clothing. spaces. Its centerpiece, the Terminal illegal. One article about Les Moore (“Taking the Off-ramp,” for about four years. The first few copies we got Phoenix, AZ 85009 4 gallery, displays a changing week later they reverse the October ’02) shows that the last line is “NO MORE”; were the reason why we decided to travel your Governor Janet Napolitano selection of Arizona art and artifacts. decision, Director, Department of Transportation your text says “NO MOORE.” Naughty, naughty! country. In summer 1999, we spent five incredibly Shows have included exhibits declaring that Victor M. Mendez Bed and Make Your Own #@&% Breakfast mesquite is W. A. “BIll” MARSH, Boise, ID gorgeous (though hot!!) weeks in the Southwest, ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD from 28 state parks, as well as Chairman Katie Dusenberry, Tucson not actually Oh, my. Or is it Ooh, my? The poor old editor, and since then we’ve been dreaming of going back Vice Chairman Ingo Radicke, Globe elvan Hayward jokes that into restoration work.