Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve Summer 2021

VISITOR GUIDE

Trails ���������������������������page 5

Boating & Camping...page 22

Wildlife ��������������������� page 30 Table of Contents Welcome to Glacier Bay General Information �����������������������3–13 Explore Glacier Bay highlights Welcome to Glacier Bay Parks are about shared ownership, working together National Park and Preserve, as a nation and world to care for a treasure we want Park Science ������������������������������������ 14–19 a place defined by beauty to pass on to our children. Successfully dealing with Discover stories behind the scenery and hope, change and the pandemic requires much of the same: collective resilience. These are familiar action to preserve what is precious. Collaboration is Guide to Park Waters Map ������������20–21 concepts reflected in the especially important for our vulnerable populations: challenges we face with the the tribal elders who hold so much of Tlingit culture, Traveling, Boating & Camping ���� 22–29 pandemic and our shared or the people who worked so hard to create the Plan your adventure efforts to protect what we communities and protect the areas you are visiting treasure. and who still live here. Please join us in helping to keep this special place special and to ensure the safety Wildlife ��������������������������������������������30–36 If you are here this summer, then you successfully and well-being of yourselves, your fellow travelers, Look, listen, and protect navigated the gauntlet of new requirements, and our local communities. restrictions, and fears of travel. You might even have For Teachers ������������������������������������������37 a better appreciation for the challenges faced by those There is a memorial coin beneath each of the four Share Glacier Bay with your class in the past who came to visit this special place. house posts in Xunaa Shuka Hit (page 6), the Eagle and Raven poles outside, and the Healing totem (page By now, we had all hoped that we might be further For Kids ��������������������������������������������������38 8). These coins have a statement, engraved in Tlingit along in our ability to freely visit our National Parks. Become a Junior Ranger and English, that drive every decision and every We also feared that finding a vaccine and a path out action this park takes: Stay Connected ������������������������������������39 of the pandemic might take much longer. Instead, we now find ourselves in the middle place. Alaska’s Support your park communities and travel industry are excited to start to welcome people back, but the lack of herd Additional Information. . . . back cover Haa yátx’i jeeyís áyá immunity requires us to be cautious and many remote Emergency, Medical, and Contact Us communities here are justifiably concerned. Luckily, For Our Children Forever. many of the best experiences in Glacier Bay – such The Fairweather as breathing in the quiet beauty rather than the air of a crowd – are found outside and can be enjoyed Produced by: responsibly so our most vulnerable are protected. Philip Hooge, Superintendent Enjoying these places requires flexibility in thought and action. You may find your mid-summer trip

Designed by: National Park Service and Alaska Geographic occurring when many restrictions have been relaxed and local and regional COVID-19 cases are very low, Park Coordinator: Laura Buchheit Editor: Matthew Enderle or you may find yourself in a time of rising numbers Graphics: Sean Tevebaugh and tightening restrictions. Contributors: Michael Bower, Laura Buchheit, Brian Buma, Kat Connelly, Sara Doyle, Lisa Etherington, Chris Gabriele, Margaret Hazen, Philip Hooge, Emma Johnson, Tania Lewis, Dan Mann, Sandy Milner, Mary Beth Moss, Janet Neilson, Steven Schaller, Melissa Senac, Lewis Sharman, Scott Gende, Ingrid Nixon, and Darlene See.

Special thanks to the following photographers: Kaytie Boomer, Michael Bower, Brian Buma, Sara Doyle, Janene Driscoll (inside cover), Chris Gabriele, Tania Lewis, Dan Mann, Craig Murdoch (front cover), Janet Neilson, Sean Neilson, Steve Schaller, Sean Tevebaugh, and NPS seasonal staff.

The Fairweather is published by Alaska Geographic Association and Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve.

Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks.

©Alaska Geographic Visitors to Bartlett Cove can still experience the wild, glacial Glacier Bay offers a myriad of opportunities to “Find Your Park.” landscape of Glacier Bay. 3 Explore Bartlett Cove Trails Bartlett Cove is the only developed area within the wilds of Glacier Bay. The forests and shorelines offer great opportunities for hiking and exploring. Maps are available at Glacier Bay Lodge and the Visitor Information Station (VIS). Forest Trail Distance: 0.7 miles (1.1 km) one way Time: 30 minutes–1.5 hours This leisurely stroll meanders through a lush forest that grows atop a glacial moraine. A wheelchair accessible boardwalk takes you part of the way, leading to two viewing decks that overlook a serene pond. Return along the shore The shores of Barlett Cove offer opportunities to explore... for an easy one-mile loop. If you just have a few hours... If you have a half day... Tlingit Trail Distance: 0.5 mile (800 m) one way Stop by the Visitor Center: On the second floor of the Hike to the Bartlett River: See trail details, page 5. Time: 30 minutes–1 hour Glacier Bay Lodge is the National Park Service (NPS) Explore the intertidal zone at low tide: See map Enjoy this easy stroll along a forested shoreline. information desk and exhibits. Open daily when lodge page 5. View the Healing Pole and a traditional Tlingit is open. Educational materials and souvenirs available canoe, admire a complete whale skeleton, learn for purchase from Alaska Geographic. about common native plants, and take in the Walk the Forest Trail: See trail details, page 5. If you have a full day... Raven and Eagle totems, as well as the exterior of the Tribal House. Go for a beach walk: See trail details, page 5. Hike to Bartlett Lake: See trail details, page 5. Join a Ranger Program: See bulletin boards or park Go for a paddle: There are several options for kayaking Bartlett River Trail website for schedule of activities happening during around Bartlett Cove. Take a guided kayak trip, or rent Distance: 4 miles (6.4 km) round trip your visit. your own from Glacier Bay Sea Kayaks. Time: 4–5 hours Explore a dense spruce-hemlock rainforest. The Visit the Whale Exhibit: See one of the largest Become a Junior Ranger: Kids can pick up their free trail through the forest ends at an estuary near humpback whale skeletons on display in the world. Junior Ranger Activity Book from the NPS information the mouth of the river. Each summer, spawning Located near the Visitor Information Station. desk at the Glacier Bay Lodge, or from the Visitor salmon attract otters, eagles, seals, and bears. Information Station (VIS). See page 38. View the Tribal House and the Healing Pole: Anglers enjoy fishing there, too. Walk along the Tlingit Trail to explore Huna Tlingit Explore Glacier Bay on the Dayboat: Spend the day connections to Glacier Bay. See pages 6–8. exploring Glacier Bay to observe wildlife and tidewater Bartlett Lake Trail Distance: 8 miles (16 km) round trip glaciers. Stop by the lodge for availability*. Time: 7–8 hours About ¾ of a mile down the Bartlett River Trail you will find the lake trail, a branch trail that climbs the moraine. This primitive trail is a rugged day-hike, with rewards of solitude and a Get the Latest Schedule of Events tranquil lake. Bring water, food, and rain gear. Please see the NPS Visitor Explore the Shore Center information desk in the Glacier Bay Distance: varies Lodge, the bulletin board in front of the The shoreline beyond the docks continues for lodge, or the Visitor Information Station miles past the campground. You may observe (VIS) near the public dock for updates and land and marine wildlife. Look for birds, listen information on available services. for whales, and watch for sea otters feeding near shore. This is not a maintained trail. 4 5 Xunaa Shuká Hít

Xunaa Shuká Hít stands proudly on the shores of Bartlett Cove. Dressed in the beaded vest of a Tlingit elder, tribal throughout Glacier Bay prior to the Little Ice Age. interpreter Don Starbard shares with visitors: “There’s Although villages inside the bay were overrun by Tribal members dance and sing during the August 2016 Tribal NPS cultural interpreter shares messages represented within the a good balance now. Yes, our young people are going glacial advances in the 1700s, the Huna Tlingit re- House Dedication. Raven and Eagle totems. off to college to become successful. But our language established fish camps and seasonal villages soon now stands proudly on the shoreline of Bartlett Cove. sides of Xunaa Shuká Hít. In August 2018, these poles is strong. Our dance is strong. Our canoe culture is after glacial retreat. Establishment of Glacier Bay Dedicated in August 2016 and opened to the public in were joined by Yaa Naa Néx Kootéeyaa (Healing Pole). strong, and, most importantly, our connection to National Monument in 1925 (and later National Park) summer 2017, it now draws thousands of visitors from This totem, collaboratively designed by NPS and HIA, Homeland remains strong.” All summer long, visitors and implementation of laws and park regulations led around the world. reveals the story of the journey through a painful past gather at the Tribal House. They listen to traditional to a period of alienation and strained relationships A team of clan leaders, craftsmen, planners, architects, to a healthier, more meaningful partnership. Xunaa stories and explore the intricately carved and painted between tribal people and the NPS. Time and new and cultural resource specialists designed Xunaa Shuká Hít is a place of learning, growth, inspiration, building. Cultural interpreters working for the National understandings have brought much healing. In recent Shuká Hít to reflect a traditional architectural style and continued healing for generations to come. Park Service (NPS) and the Hoonah Indian Association years, the NPS and HIA worked cooperatively to reminiscent of ancestral clan houses with modern Images of the Huna Tribal House dedication and (HIA), the tribal government, share deeply of their reinvigorate traditional activities, develop cultural touches suitable for the needs of the community today. carving projects are available on the park’s website traditions, history, enduring connection to Glacier Bay programs for youth and adults, amend regulations to Inside the Tribal House are four richly detailed massive under the Tribal House Media Gallery. To learn more homeland, and the collaborative efforts that led to the allow for a broader range of traditional harvests in park cedar interior house posts and an interior house screen about special events and opportunities to experience completion of this magnificent building. boundaries, and preserve oral histories. which depicts the stories of the four primary Huna the Tribal House, check the posted activity schedules in For countless generations, the Huna Tlingit sustained The most symbolic cooperative venture—Xunaa Shuká Tlingit clans and their tie to Glacier Bay homeland. Bartlett Cove or ask a ranger. themselves on the abundant resources found Hít (roughly translated as Huna Ancestors’ House)— These cultural elements impart spiritual value to the Tribal House, and, as importantly, their design and completion expand the circle of tribal members who hold traditional skills and share in cultural knowledge. The 2,500 square foot Tribal House is not only a place for visitors to learn about Tlingit traditions, but is also a venue for tribal members to reconnect with their traditional homeland, life-ways, and ancestral knowledge. Within months of its dedication, the Tribal House inspired native high school students to spend their winter school break at the Tribal House learning traditional crafts from elders and culture bearers. Months later, hundreds of tribal members gathered Traditional songs inspire the strength and stamina to carry the HIA cultural interpreter leads a group down the Tlingit Trail to Hoonah youth welcome traditional dugout canoes on Bartlett to raise the Eagle and Raven totems that grace the Raven and Eagle totems at the May 2017 Totem Raising. Xunaa Shuká Hít. Cove’s shoreline during the 2018 Healing Pole Dedication. 6 7 Yaa Naa Néx Kootéeyaa Planning for our Park I believe we are on a path - that our people will be remembered...” - Frank Wright Jr, President of Hoonah Indian Association Our pole...is a story pole. It is, essentially, the recorded history, not only of the Huna Tlingit, not only of Glacier Bay National Park, but of our long, sometimes painful, sometimes joyous, journey together. - Philip Hooge, Superintendent Philip Hooge (left) and Frank Wright, Jr. (right) at the Healing Pole Dedication. Journey of Healing The National Park Service cares Raised on August 25, 2018, Yaa Naa Néx Kootéeyaa (Healing Pole) tells for special places saved by the the story of the long journey for both Huna Tlingit and the National American people so that all may Park Service to heal years of misunderstandings and hurt. experience our heritage. Designed collaboratively by tribal elders, carvers, and NPS staff, the pole contains a mix of traditional formline design and modern Glacier Bay by satellite, from NASA’s Earth Observatory. representations of symbols—differentiating it from other poles in Southeast Alaska. Your Opinion Counts You are a part of a long legacy of adventurers inspired by Glacier Bay is the traditional Glacier Bay! Keep connected and involved even from afar. Stay Tuned! home and “breadbasket” of the The NPS relies on your feedback to help guide stewardship You don’t need to live close by to be connected Huna Tlingit—sustaining them of America’s great natural and cultural resources. and stay involved. You can follow progress and physically and spiritually until a offer feedback to inform park planning in the rapidly advancing glacier pushed Glacier Bay National Park is currently working with the following ways: them out in the late 1700s. NPS to update some of the park’s management plans. This planning effort will strengthen the park service mission √ SUBSCRIBE to our planning notification list to provide for visitor enjoyment while also preserving the by sending us your contact information: The Huna Tlingit felt that the park’s extraordinary natural and cultural heritage for [email protected] federal government—a faceless, future generations. Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve PO Box 140 soulless being with too many Please take the time to visit our Frontcountry and Gustavus AK 99826 hands—barred them from many Backcountry Management Plan websites (see below) or traditional practices upon their contact us (see right) to learn more about our process and √ FOLLOW the park’s social media for press return after the glacier receded. progress, and to offer your unique perspective. There are releases and planning announcements (public multiple ways you can be involved. meetings, review drafts, comment periods). √ VISIT US ONLINE to learn more about Traditional dugout canoes Follow implementation of the Follow Glacier Bay wilderness park management: https://www.nps.gov/glba/ support healing journeys updated Bartlett Cove plan: experience planning: getinvolved/planning.htm cooperatively planned by go.nps.gov/GLBA_FMP go.nps.gov/GBwild NPS and the Hoonah Indian Frontcountry Management Backcountry Management Association—connecting tribal Plan website Plan website members with Glacier Bay homeland. Visit the NPS online portal for real time public notices and comment Visit the Healing Pole next to the Visitor Information Station, opportunities: Planning, Environment, and Public Comment (PEPC) and read the complete story from bottom to top at our website: https://parkplanning.nps.gov/glba go.NPS.gov/healingtotem 8 9 Timeline of Glacier Bay

1794 Captain George 1980 Congress, under 1995 The National 2020 Reduced Vancouver of the H.M.S. the leadership of President Park Service and Hoonah park operations Ecologist William Discovery and Lt. Joseph 1925 Jimmy Carter, signs the Indian Association continue with S. Cooper, studying plant Whidbey describe Glacier Alaska National Interest sign a Memorandum of limited visitation Since time immemorial, succession in Glacier Bay, Bay as “a compact sheet of Lands Conservation Act Understanding to establish due to the Covid-19 Tlingit clans live in the area that and the Ecological Society ice as far as the eye could into law. Glacier Bay a working partnership. pandemic. In is now Glacier Bay. Advancing of America persuade distinguish.” The “bay” is a becomes a national park 2019, Glacier Bay glaciers in the 1700s during the President Coolidge to mere five-mile indentation and preserve encompassing welcomes over Little Ice Age force the Tlingit 1883 James Carroll and other establish Glacier Bay in the coastline. 3.3 million acres. 640,000 visitors. out of their homeland. After commercial steamship captains National Monument. the Little Ice Age, the glacier make Muir Glacier a popular melts back and the ocean fills tourist destination. the valley quickly, creating Glacier Bay.

1750 1800 1850 1900 1950 2000

1966 Glacier Bay Lodge opens as 2016 The National John Muir, guided by Tlingit Park Service celebrates 1770s–1790s 1879 part of the “Mission 66” initiative men, paddles into Glacier Bay. They its centennial: 100 years European explorers arrive. that brought facility improvements 1992 UNESCO designates find the glacial ice has retreated 40 of “America’s Best Idea.” Excursions led by Captains to national parks nationwide during Glacier Bay, along with miles since 1794. Muir returns three Glacier Bay celebrates Malaspina, La Perouse, Cook, the 50th anniversary of the National Wrangell-St. Elias National Park times over the next 15 years. He with the opening of the Vancouver, and many others Park Service. and Preserve (Alaska), Kluane constructs a cabin, makes extensive Huna Tribal House, a provide the first western 1916 U.S. Congress passes National Park Reserve (Canada) observations of glaciers, and collaborative project descriptions of the area and its the Organic Act, creating the and Tatshenshini-Alsek explains interglacial tree stumps. with the Hoonah Indian people. Cartographers create National Park Service. Provincial Park (Canada), as a The eloquent writings of enthusiasts Association. The building the first maps of the area and 24-million-acre World Heritage like Muir and Eliza Scidmore begin serves as a cultural anchor non-Native names are given to Site, one of the world’s largest attracting new visitors to the bay. and a place of learning. landforms. internationally protected areas. 10 11 World Heritage Glaciers

A cruise ship appears small within the expansive Glacier Bay landscape. Through careful vessel management, Glacier Bay National A glacier flows from the Fairweather Mountains. Glaciers continue to change in response to their environment. Park seeks to balance visitation with resource preservation. Rivers of Ice International Connections “Words and dry figures can give one little idea Tall, coastal mountains and an abundance of snow A cruise ship sails into Glacier Bay, one of potentially only the 50 marine sites on the United Nations Educational, make Glacier Bay a comfortable home for hundreds of of the grandeur of this glacial torrent flowing two for that summer’s day. The ship’s company follows Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) glaciers. Storms from the Pacific Ocean collide with the steadily and solidly into the sea, and the beauty voluntary environmental protocols to reduce vessel converged on Bartlett Cove for a symposium with towering Fairweather Mountains, often producing rain of the fantastic ice front, shimmering with all the emissions and lower impacts. The ship’s crew curtails one major goal: to learn from each other how to best at sea level and snow at higher elevations. More snow prismatic hues, beyond imagery or description.” activities aboard, encouraging passengers to take in the manage their protected areas. Over the five-day event, falls each year than melts in the mountains. The snow -Eliza Scidmore, 1883 wilderness around them. Interpretive rangers, invited managers from sites all over the world shared stories of compacts, forming ice. With the influence of gravity, aboard for the day, share stories of the park and its the challenges they face including increasing visitation, the ice slides down the mountainside. Basically, ice in significance. After visiting the tidewater glaciers, the ship climate change, and marine pollution. They also shared motion is a glacier. A few glaciers, called tidewater glaciers, reach all the eventually departs leaving nothing but its wake. solutions. As a glacier flows down the mountainside, it reaches way to the ocean and are strong enough to survive This Glacier Bay model of vessel management is a According to Superintendent Philip Hooge, the warmer elevations. When the air above a glacier is above with their ice touching warm ocean water. Tidewater significant reason why in September 2019, managers of gathering was a chance to highlight the park’s freezing or if it is raining, then ice melts. The balance glaciers have a naturally occurring cycle of advance success with public-private partnerships. “Working between the amount of ice forming and ice melting and retreat that has shaped Glacier Bay for millennia.A together with the cruise industry we have been able determines whether a glacier advances (grows) or few hundred years ago, a glacier that sat mid-way down to successfully deal with some of the issues associated retreats (shrinks), though it always flows forward. the bay for centuries advanced rapidly until it came to with cruise tourism,” he said, “and achieve higher the waters of Icy Strait. The salty ocean water caused environmental standards using means other than the the glacial ice to melt and dramatically break away in regulatory process.” a process called calving. Snowfall couldn’t keep up While in the bay in front of the Lamplugh Glacier with with the amount of melting and calving, so the glacier the marine managers cheering on, Superintendent retreated quickly. All of the glaciers visitors see in the Hooge signed a Sister Park Agreement with park today are remnants of that once large glacier. representatives of West Norwegian Fjords World Changes to glacial ice continue in Glacier Bay. While Heritage Site in Norway. The two sites have much in tidewater glaciers are still influenced by ocean water, common in that they both feature scenic fjords with all glaciers are now impacted by a rapidly warming major visitation by cruise ships. “This provides an planet. Glacier Bay National Park will continue to study incredible opportunity for protected areas that share so glaciers as the climate warms. As a living labratory, much to learn from each other,” said Hooge. Park Superintendent and West Norwegian Fjords Board Glaciers shrink in size when more ice is lost from melting than Glacier Bay provides outstanding opportunities to Chairman sign Sister Park Agreement at Lamplugh Glacier. gained from snowfall. explore the intricate dynamics of glaciers. 12 13 Park Science Visitors and researchers alike from around the world explore and admire Glacier Bay. The dramatic retreat “The most beautiful thing we can experience of glaciers created a premiere scientific laboratory. is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art Explorer John Muir initiated the park’s remarkable and science.” legacy of scientific inquiry in the late 1800s. Botanist - Albert Einstein William Cooper secured protected status for Glacier Bay following his research about how plant life follows glacial retreat. In fact, the initial proclamation protecting Glacier Bay National Park states research as a reason for national preservation. From whales and plankton to climate and otters, research is a common occurrence in the protected laboratory of Glacier Bay. This scientific study provides greater understanding and appreciation for the wilderness we explore. Learn William S. Cooper recognized Glacier Bay as a living laboratory. He studied the process of pioneer plants colonizing land recently more by reading the following pages, and make your revealed by retreating glaciers. own discoveries in Glacier Bay. A Vision of Preservation People visit Glacier Bay to view amazing scenery, monument. One of the monument’s fundamental Meet a researcher dramatic glaciers, and spectacular wildlife. Yet a mandates was to preserve the opportunity to conduct Sandy Milner, Pioneer of Glacier Bay Streams century ago one man saw something else of great value scientific studies, making Glacier Bay a true “park for Dr. Alexander “Sandy” increases. Aquatic insect fauna become more diverse here: incredible opportunities for science. science.” Milner has been researching and abundant. Salmon colonize new spawning habitat. Botanist William Skinner Cooper (1884–1978) came Dr. Cooper returned to his beloved Glacier Bay many Glacier Bay’s streams for Dr. Milner has shared his passion for learning and for to Glacier Bay in 1916 to study how plants colonize times to document the successional development in the 38 of the past 40 summers! Glacier Bay as a professor at the University of Alaska newly-exposed ground following glacial retreat. He study areas and plots he established on his first visit. His first visit was as an and the University of Birmingham (UK). He has recognized Glacier Bay as the best place on earth to Dr. Cooper’s students and other scientists continue his undergraduate student on supervised 12 graduate students (ten of them Ph.D.’s) witness the process of “plant succession,” a fascinating work on how ecosystems respond to glacial recession an expedition from Chelsea and authored 26 scientific journal articles focused on interplay of plants, nutrients, soil, and time. In this and, more broadly, global climate change. This ongoing College, UK in 1977. Here stream development in Glacier Bay. process the bare ground emerging from beneath a research makes Glacier Bay the oldest continuously he found a natural living glacier goes through various stages to become a rich, researched post-glacial landscape in the world. laboratory, a place to The transformation of streams continues to captivate Dr . Milner has studied thick, mossy evergreen forest of towering spruces and Glacier Bay is preserved streams created after glacier pioneer research on how life Dr. Milner. When asked why he returns to Glacier hemlocks. as public land for many retreat for 40 years. establishes in new streams. Bay, he explained “I would never have thought when I sampled a cold Wolf Point Creek [Muir Inlet] with no Dr. Cooper saw a natural laboratory in Glacier Bay reasons: protection of Today, Dr. Milner is regarded as the world expert vegetation on a barren landscape in the late 1970s as where scientific principles could be discovered as wildlife habitat, scenery, on stream ecosystem development following glacial it emerged from the ice, that I would still be sampling well as tested; a place where completely new scientific value to the world, retreat. His work has revealed the patterns of stream the same stream 38 years later in a cottonwood forest questions could be asked. As a prominent member enjoyment by present succession as new watersheds form in this dynamic with so much biodiversity and thousands of salmon of the Ecological Society of America, Dr. Cooper and future generations, landscape. As streams age, the stream channels spawning. The stream system is still dynamic and every successfully led a committee of colleagues in a vigorous and as a living laboratory. Ecologist Brian Buma continues stabilize, water clarity improves, and water temperature campaign to lobby President Calvin Coolidge for Glacier Bay still inspires the legacy of research on year a new discovery is evident.” Dr . Cooper’s original plots. protection of the Glacier Bay area in 1925 as a national new discoveries today.

The mouth of Wolf Point Creek (pictured 40 years ago) emerged The stream now supports pink salmon runs of more than from under the retreating glacier in the mid 1940s. 12,000 fish. From rock to rainforest—in just 75 years! Images taken at the same location document the landscape changes. 14 15 Park Science

Ninety-five percent of Alaska’s glaciers are thinning, stagnating, or retreating. A weather station high above the bay collects information that will contribute to understanding Glacier Bay’s changing climate. The Ice Is Melting Tracking Ecosystem Change The Earth’s climate is changing—and fast! In There is good news. Humans are inventive, resourceful, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve is a place of Oceanographic conditions—including water Glacier Bay, glaciers are rapidly shrinking and ocean and capable of overcoming great challenges. Although constant change. What you see today will be different temperature, salinity, solar radiation, water clarity, temperature is rising. Scientists who study the Earth’s climate change is a global concern, we each hold a part tomorrow. Visitors experience a dynamic landscape dissolved oxygen concentration, and indicators climate have documented warming temperatures in of the answer to minimizing its impact. and seascape that are continually adjusting, balancing of phytoplankton abundance—are monitored at Alaska due to increased carbon dioxide levels. Warming the forces of nature. In many ways, intricately linked fixed stations throughout the bay for determining The Earth’s climate is changing and Glacier Bay is climate and ocean processes drive the park’s changes. long-term trends. temperatures lead to changes in fire cycles, tree growth, warming. How will these changes affect you? One animal migrations, and rapidly melting glaciers. Some connections are quite clear—glaciers recede in To take care of this special place, it is important to fully fact is certain: the choices we make today will make a a warming climate. Others are less obvious—ocean Ninety-five percent of Alaska’s glaciers are currently difference in the future. understand the health of its natural systems. As Glacier retreating, thinning, or stagnating. Importantly, the acidity impacts the food webs that many of the park’s Bay continues to change, the long-term monitoring of rate of thinning is increasing. Glacier Bay’s glaciers most iconic species, such as humpback whales and sea its vital signs, both above and below the water, helps follow this trend. Recent research determined that otters, depend on. Therefore, long-term records of us to further understand the forces at work in order to the area covered by ice in Glacier Bay has shrunk 15% climate and ocean conditions provide the necessary protect the park well into the future. from 1950 to now. Nevertheless, heavy snowfall in the backdrop for understanding the changes occurring in Glacier Bay. More information and access to data and reports are towering Fairweather Mountains means that a few found here: https://www.nps.gov/im/sean/index.htm glaciers might remain stable in Glacier Bay, a rarity in Just as a doctor assesses your health based on a medical today’s world. Take a good look at the glaciers you see in history, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve along Glacier Bay today. The next time you see these glaciers, with the NPS Southeast Alaska Network inventory and they will be different. monitoring program are assessing Glacier Bay’s health Alaska and other polar regions experience the effects through long-term monitoring of selected climate and of climate change more strongly than other places. ocean “vital signs.” Eight weather stations have been Decades of data from NASA’s Goddard Institute for installed throughout the park to track climate health. Space Studies show that Alaska and the polar regions These automated stations monitor long-term trends have warmed more than twice as much as the rest of in air and soil temperature, precipitation, wind, solar the earth. Climate change is a reality for Alaskans, radiation, and snow depth. threatening villages with coastal erosion, changing Oceanographic monitoring was initiated in 1993 subsistence practices, and altering weather patterns. to assess the health of Glacier Bay’s marine waters, Ask park rangers about what changes they have noticed For more information about climate change in national parks, representing one of the longest-running oceanographic Researchers collect ocean water from the depths of Glacier Bay in Glacier Bay. visit www.nps.gov/climatechange datasets in Alaska waters. to document changing conditions for marine life. 16 17 Park Science

Glacier Bay scientists and cruise ship pilots are working together to study and protect humpback whales. View of uplifted marine terraces along Glacier Bay’s Outer Coast where sediments containing pre Ice Age forests are preserved. New Tools for Avoiding Whale-Ship Collisions Ice Age History of Glacier Bay’s Outer Coast Glacier Bay National Park is the same size as the pilots the opportunity to “practice” whale avoidance Could Glacier Bay hold a missing piece in the story of interrupted by storms, bears, and, sometimes, getting state of Connecticut, 3.3 million acres, though they techniques in a simulator. This training curriculum human migration to North America? Dr. Dan Mann, a lost in the woods. are certainly very different! For example, while is the first of its kind to couple the science of whale scientist from the University of Alaska, is searching the So far, results indicate that glaciers retreated abruptly Connecticut has more than 20,000 miles of public behavior with the professional discipline of ship park’s wild Outer Coast for clues. 16,000 years ago, and by 14,600 years ago the Outer roadways, Glacier Bay has only six miles. Yet thousands maneauvering. Glacier Bay is famous for providing insights into Coast was ice-free. This date is important because the of people travel through Glacier Bay on another Another collaborative tool is Whale Alert. Throughout nature’s recovery after glaciers retreat. Many of these earliest archaeological remains in Oregon and Chile “highway”: Glacier Bay’s extensive waterway. Southeast Alaska, cruise ship pilots and biologists are changes occurred in less than 300 years—the blink of date to shortly thereafter. This study demonstrates the Navigating a ship has some similar hazards as driving a working to produce near real-time whale sighting maps an eye in geologic terms. Yet the park contains older feasibility of the First Americans traveling south along car, such as wildlife avoidance. While drivers in other through a smart phone or tablet application. Ships records of change, some of which may help settle the this ice-free coast. The search continues for the elusive national parks watch out for squirrels and deer jumping can then avoid current locations where whales are debate about when people first reached the Americas. missing piece, an actual archaeological site proving into the road, cruise ship pilots in Glacier Bay are alert congregating, thereby reducing the risk of a collision. Forty thousand years ago, a forest like the one found people were present along the coast at that time. Until for humpback whales suddenly appearing in front of Visitors keeping a watchful eye on the water have today grew along the Outer Coast, a rugged wilderness that discovery, researchers will continue their work their vessels. In fact, research has documented that over a great chance of seeing a humpback whale while between the Gulf of Alaska and the Fairweather Range. along the Outer Coast to decipher Glacier Bay’s history. 75% of ships in Glacier Bay experience whales surfacing traveling on the Glacier Bay waterway. New tools are Shortly thereafter, glaciers advanced, destroying within 3,280 feet (1,000 meters) of the ship’s bow. helping “drivers” in Glacier Bay avoid whale-ship everything in their paths. However, isolated upland Seeing a whale close to a ship is exciting, yet can collisions. areas were beyond the glaciers’ reaches, so soil and also be perilous to whales. Whales are often focused vegetation remained. on feeding, so they are not always aware of a ship’s Dr. Mann’s search for these areas containing ancient presence nearby. In order to keep people and whales For more information soils, buried forests, and uplifted beach deposits safe in Southeast Alaska, Glacier Bay is collaborating starts in the office. He uses aerial photos to identify with several organizations to develop best practices to on Whale Alert and for locations likely to have escaped glacial destruction. minimize the chance of a whale-ship collision. the free app, visit The challenge is actually getting there. The team lands Since 2012, Glacier Bay scientists have worked with www.whalealert.org in a float plane and treks through dense vegetation and experienced marine pilots to test and implement across glacial lakes. They search for plant remains to techniques for avoiding whales. A new training use for radiocarbon dating. Preserved pollen samples currently under joint production will provide marine determine ancient vegetation. Ripple forms preserved Researcher digs to sample the remains of a 40,000-year-old forest in buried sand indicate glacier flow. Field work is often bed that may hold ancient clues to human history.

18 19

Plan Your Trip

Glacier Bay’s vast landscape invites exploration. Park rangers help protect park resources and keep visitors safe. Amazing Adventures Await Park Regulations Glacier Bay provides incredible opportunities for will help you to make the most of your time in Glacier The following is a partial listing of laws and regulations Harvesting the following for personal use and wilderness discovery. Wilderness is full of surprises, so Bay, safely and with minimum impact to the park. designed to help you have a safe, enjoyable visit while consumption is allowed: unoccupied seashells, edible planning ahead and preparing for your adventure helps Orientations cover current backcountry conditions, protecting park resources. For further information or berries and fruits, edible mushrooms, clams, and ensure a fulfilling and safe trip. The following pages regulations, safety issues, resource situations, tides, and questions on additional regulations, please ask a park mollusks. State regulations apply. give a wealth of information about camping and boating weather. Backcountry campers can check out bear- ranger. NOTE: Eating clams and mussels from Glacier Bay in Glacier Bay. resistant food containers to use free of charge during Feeding Wildlife is prohibited. All food, fish, is not recommended because of the presence of a If you plan to camp or boat during your visit, your their visit. garbage, and equipment used to cook or store food must naturally occurring neurotoxin that causes paralytic first stop should be at the Visitor Information Station It is your responsibility to know and follow the be cached inside of a motor vehicle (not in open pickup), shellfish poisoning in humans and can lead to sudden (VIS) near the public use dock. During the summer, a regulations of Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. vessel (excluding kayaks), building, approved bear- death. free permit is required for all motorized boating and We can help. If you have any questions, please contact resistant food containers, designated trash receptacle, Pets are allowed on land in only a few select areas, may overnight camping. Orientations are required annually the park or ask a park ranger at the VIS, the visitor or designated food cache. not be left unattended, and must be leashed at all times. for all campers and boat captains. These orientations center, or at park headquarters. Camping in Bartlett Cove is allowed only in the Pets are not allowed on trails or in the backcountry. designated campground or one mile away from any Pets are allowed on vessels on the water, on the Bartlett road, building, or trail. Cove public use dock, on the beach between the Bartlett Cove public use dock and the park headquarters dock, Help Keep Glacier Bay Clean Firearms are prohibited in federal facilities. Special regulations apply when carrying firearms within and within 100 feet of Bartlett Cove roads or parking Glacier Bay is remarkably pristine and free of litter. and most plastics to recycling centers. Park staff do a Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Please contact areas unless otherwise posted. Clean up after pets. You can help keep the park clean and efficient. Please final hand-sorting of trash to ensure that all recyclable the Visitor Information Station at Bartlett Cove at Sport Fishing by all nonresidents 16 years and older separate your waste into the appropriate bins in the items are in recycling shipments. Locally, food waste 907-697-2627 for further guidance. and Alaskan residents 18–59 requires a valid Alaska parking lot near the public dock. Your efforts to from the park and the lodge is composted into topsoil is only permitted on the preserve lands in State Fishing License, available online at http://adfj. separate recyclables make it possible for the park to for use in the community. Hunting the Dry Bay area. All persons 16 years and older are alaska.gov. Licenses are not sold locally. Consult Alaska reach the high record for recycling or reusing waste in With your help, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve required to hold a valid Alaska State Hunting License. State Fishing regulations when purchasing a license. its day-to-day operations. will continue to achieve one of the best recycling rates Recycling is a serious endeavor in Glacier Bay. The park in the National Park Service. We can all work together collaborates with the neighboring city of Gustavus to to keep Glacier Bay’s environment clean and healthy. FOR You are in a remote, isolated area. The closest hospital or trauma facility is in Juneau, 30 minutes by send shipments of aluminum, paper products, steel, tin, air . Weather conditions can delay medical evacuations or other emergency transport, sometimes for YOUR days . Plan and prepare for your trips carefully! Even for short excursions, always let someone know SAFETY where you are going and what time you plan to be back. 22 23 Boating Motorized Vessels Be Careful Permits on the Water • Are required for private motor vessels to enter and exit Glacier Bay from June 1–August 31. Closures • Are free and valid for up to seven consecutive days and six nights. Areas designated as Critical Wildlife Areas are off • Must be confirmed 48 hours before scheduled entry date or permit will be cancelled. limits to entry and landings for all or part of the year. • Are only valid for operation of one vessel at a time. In summer, some areas are off limits to motorized vessels—including sailing vessels with auxiliary To confirm permits or to see if permits are available, call the Visitor Information Station “KWM20 Bartlett motorized propulsion, even if not in use. Know and Cove” on marine band 16 or phone 907-697-2627. Permit applications are accepted 60 days before the intended obey all closures. See Guide to Park Waters, pages entry date and are available at www.nps.gov/glba. From May 1 to September 30, all vessels must call in to 20–21. KWM20 prior to entering and also when exiting the park. Cruise Ships No more than two cruise ships are permitted in the Docks park per day. These large vessels cannot turn quickly Bartlett Cove Dock: Fuel Dock: and may take miles to stop. Do not approach them when Kayaking gives vistiors a unique perspective of Glacier Bay. • Vessels may dock for a maximum of 3 hours in • For hours, call Glacier Bay Lodge on marine they are stationary in front of the glaciers. Do not get a 24-hour period. After that, anchor out beyond band 16 or phone 907-697-4000. in their path and do not assume they see you. Watch Tides the white “no wake” buoys. • Fuel is available during the Glacier Bay Lodge for large wakes from ships. These waves can reach the Beware of extreme high tides. Secure boats, kayaks, and • Dinghies 10 feet or less may dock in the operating season. beach over 10 minutes after the ship has passed. gear well above the high tide line. Some waterways are designated area for up to 24 hours. tide dependent and may only be passable at high tide. • Access to shore via the fuel dock is not Currents & Winds • Do not leave vehicles or personal property permitted. The forces of tides, currents, and wind can combine in Landslide Potential unattended on docks. • Do not leave vessels unattended at the certain places to create dangerous conditions. Areas Many of Glacier Bay’s steep mountainsides are • Use only slips designated for your use. See dock fuel dock. that may require extra caution include Sitakaday unstable. Landslides may occur at any time, potentially bulletin board. Narrows, Beardslee Entrance, McBride Entrance, Berg resulting in large waves in narrow inlets and along • Potable water is available on the dock. Bay, and the north shore of Adams Inlet. Plan crossings shorelines. of wide channels carefully. Be prepared to change your Weather Anchorages route or wait for dangerous conditions to subside. May through September, weather forecasts are posted • Boat operators should carefully consult their charts when choosing an anchorage. Glaciers & Icebergs daily on the VIS bulletin board. Rangers broadcast the • Anchor in water deep enough to remain afloat at low tide. Suddenly approaching tidewater glaciers closer than marine forecast and important notices over marine • Safety depends on ice, wind, and tide conditions. ¼ mile is not recommended. Glaciers can calve from band 9 at approximately 8:45 am and 4:45 pm daily • Please do not raft or anchor next to the South Sandy Cove Ranger Raft. above and below the waterline. Underwater tongues of (May and September) and 8:45 am and 5:45 pm daily • Boats at North Sandy Cove, Reid Inlet, and Blue Mouse Cove may not run generators or ice can also break off and shoot to the surface. (June–August). any other non-propulsive engines between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. except when using a windlass. In the Case of an Emergency Maps and Charts Call by phone (907-697-2651) or by radio on marine Topographic Maps: band 16 (state “Mayday, Mayday, Mayday”). Trails Illustrated Map by National Geographic NOTE: Radio coverage in the bay is spotty, and cell 1:250,000 phone coverage is nonexistent. If needed, hail another USGS Quadrangles 1:63,360 boat nearby to relay messages. Nautical Charts: 17300 Stephens Passage to Cross Sound If you have no radio, wave a large brightly colored 17318 Glacier Bay item toward a passing boat. Tie this item to a stick, 17302 Icy Strait and Cross Sound oar, or kayak paddle for greater visibility. 17301 Cape Spencer to Icy Point 16762 Lituya Bay

24 25 Weather & Tides Glacier-Making Weather Glacier Bay has a maritime climate, heavily influenced Wool and synthetic clothing such as fleece will keep by ocean currents. The result is mild winter you warm even if the clothes are damp. Cotton is not temperatures and cool summer temperatures near sea an ideal fabric choice. Always have raingear with you. level. Summer visitors can expect highs between 50º Remember, it’s usually cooler on the water and and 60º degrees Fahrenheit (10–15 degrees Celsius). near glaciers. Bring extra layers for warmth. Winter temperatures rarely drop into the single digits, When you have clothes and gear to keep you dry with average nighttime lows in the mid 20s and highs and comfortable, you can appreciate the wonders of in the upper 30s. Glacier Bay no matter the weather! Bartlett Cove receives about 70–75 inches of precipitation annually. You may find yourself thinking it’s all coming down during your visit. April, May, and June are usually the driest months of the year, while September and October tend to be the wettest. All this moisture helps to create the lush temperate rainforests Twice a day, an amazing world is exposed by the changing tides. The intertidal zone is full of life uniquely adapted to this area between high and low tide. of the lower bay. Keep in mind, these are weather conditions at sea level. Conditions are more severe up in the mountains, with Tides colder temperatures and more precipitation that takes The tidal fluctuations in Glacier Bay can be as high as 25 Local conditions, such as topography, also influence the the form of snow. All that snow falling year after year feet. This means that one moment you may be standing tides and the currents they generate. The entrance to goes into creating the glaciers we love to see. on the beach looking at mud flats stretching out for Glacier Bay is narrow, yet a great deal of water must rush What to Wear? 100 yards and hours later the water is lapping at your through that opening twice daily, creating currents in The weather in Glacier Bay can change quickly over toes. Or worse: one minute you’ve pulled your kayak Sitakaday Narrows as strong as seven knots. the course of the day, especially if you are traveling up on shore so you can enjoy lunch, but you wake up 30 To see this incredible force in action, walk down to the into the bay. Dressing appropriately will enhance your minutes later from your post-lunch nap to see your kayak water’s edge about three hours after high or low tide. Fix trip by allowing you to stay out in the elements and floating away. your gaze on a shell or a piece of seaweed and watch how Be prepared for wet and cold weather in Glacier Bay! make the most of wildlife and glacier viewing. Tides result from its proximity to the water’s edge changes in just minutes. Be sure to keep that in mind when you decide to enjoy an You hardly need to spend the gravitational after-lunch nap on your next paddling adventure. more than six hours in pull between the sun Hypothermia—Killer Cold and the moon, and Bartlett Cove to realize In the backcountry, good rain gear is a must. Staying Treatment: Provide shelter from cold, rain, wet ground, their relationship to dry will help you stay warm as wet clothing can wick and wind. Replace wet clothing with dry synthetic that there is something the Earth. As these away body heat and lead to hypothermia—the lowering clothing. Techniques to stay warm include: three celestial bodies interesting going on with are constantly in of the body’s core temperature. Hypothermia can kill if • Wrap patient in space blanket, sleeping bag, or action is not taken to prevent further heat loss. ground cloth. the tides. motion, the amount of gravitational Prevention and early recognition are vital to safe • Wrap warm water bottles in cloth and place in pull varies, and the tide levels change. Since the moon camping. A victim of hypothermia may not realize his the sleeping bag with patient. is closer, it has the strongest influence on the tides. Its or her condition, and will often deny being cold or • Provide close contact with another warm person. gravitational attraction causes the water surrounding the needing help. • Build a fire. Earth to bulge. It bulges on the side closest to the moon • Feed patient sugars, carbohydrates, or sweet Early Symptoms: Violent shivering, changes in mood warm drinks. due to gravitational pull. or consciousness, irritability, cool, pale skin, slow or • Keep patient awake. There are usually two high and two low tides daily on weak pulse, slow, shallow breathing. the West Coast. The times for highs and lows shift about DO NOT: Give alcohol, rub or massage the affected Advanced Symptoms: Absence of shivering, 50 minutes later on subsequent days. This means if high area, or expose to excessive heat. unconsciousness. tide is at 9:00 a.m. one day, it will be high at about 9:50 This huge iceberg was stranded on the beach by the a.m. the next day, around 10:40 a.m. the next, and so on. outgoing tide. 26 27 Camping

Beardslee Islands provide a beautiful backdrop for any campsite. Backcountry camping allows visitors to discover the wilderness of Glacier Bay. Take Care of Your Park In the Backcountry Arriving on the Ferry By practicing Leave No Trace Principles we help to Minimize Your Campfire A free permit is required between May 1 and September The Alaska Marine Highway ferry system provides ensure that future generations can enjoy Glacier Bay in • Avoid the need for a campfire. Use a cook stove. 30. Certain parts of the bay are closed to campers, either service from Juneau intermittently through the year. • Campfires are permitted below the high tide the same condition as it is today. permanently or temporarily, due to animal activity Although this option affords both visitors and line. Break up any campfire rings before leaving Plan Ahead and Prepare or resource protection. Ask a ranger at your camper residents many new opportunities to travel with a the site. • Have the appropriate charts, maps, and orientation about any current advisories. personal vehicle, you may not find all the services • Burn only dead and downed wood. Do not burn navigation tools. and amenities one might expect in other road-linked interglacial wood, which comes from the exposed • Allow time for a thorough camper orientation remnants of ancient forests found on certain Alaska communities. If arriving with a vehicle be prior to obtaining your permit. Park Campground beaches within the bay. Ask a ranger for details. aware that: • Be familiar with park regulations and unique A free, walk-in tent concerns for the area. Be Considerate of Others campground is located at • Glacier Bay National Park is essentially • Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and • Avoid camping near other parties. Bartlett Cove. You must roadless. Bartlett Cove is accessible by vehicle emergencies. • Keep your camp and activities as inconspicuous register for a site at the from Gustavus, but all other areas may only be as possible. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces VIS. Wheelbarrows are reached on foot, by boat, or by small aircraft. • Groups larger than 12 are not allowed. • Do not camp within 100 feet of a stream or lake. available to help haul gear • National Park facilities in Bartlett Cove were • Leave your campsite as natural as you found it. Respect Wildlife between the VIS, dock, and not designed to accommodate visitors with • A good campsite is FOUND and not MADE. • Choose a campsite that shows few signs campground. Drinking private vehicles, and parking may be limited. of wildlife. water is available near the • There is one primitive campground in the Dispose of Waste Properly • Watch carefully for and avoid ground VIS. Please observe the • Pack it in—pack it out. park. It is accessible on foot only. nesting birds. following: • Keep all trash in a bear canister. • There are no RV facilities (sites/dump station/ • Cook and eat in the intertidal zone at least 100 • Store all food, trash, • Deposit human waste either in a hole dug at least yards from your campsite. hookups/etc.) or vehicle camping areas within six inches deep in a location at least 100 feet from and scented items in the • Never leave food unattended. the park. Camping is not permitted in parking any freshwater source or in the intertidal zone caches provided in the • Store all food and scented items in a bear canister areas or along the park road. (below high tide line), allowing the tide to remove campground. in brush or behind rocks at least 100 yards from the human waste. • Cook, prepare, and • For the latest updates on park facilities call camp, not in your boat or kayak. eat food only in the Tent sites in the walk-in • Toilet paper must be burned or carried out. campground are located in the 907-697-2230 or visit www.nps.gov/glba intertidal zone next to temperate rainforest. • There are various lodging and other services Leave What You Find the campground. Never • Unoccupied shells and berries or fruits may be Don’t Forget to Check In! eat or cook in the campground or warming shelter. available in Gustavus. For more specific collected for personal use or consumption. information please contact the Gustavus If you fail to check in at the VIS, rangers will begin • Dispose of trash and recyclables in appropriate • Collection of rocks, flowers, bones, or other Visitors Association at www.gustavusak.com. a search the day after your scheduled return, bins near the VIS. artifacts is not allowed. starting with the areas indicated on your permit. • Fires are permitted only in the designated • For lasting memories, take pictures or campground beach fire ring. make sketches. 28 29 Wildlife When the ice retreated in Glacier Bay, it left behind a scoured landscape of rocks and a deep valley filled with ocean water. In time, plants returned to the seemingly sterile land. Eventually, animals returned to the land and waters. Today, a wide diversity of life calls Glacier Bay home. As you explore Glacier Bay, keep your eye out for some of these more frequently seen members of the community. As you admire Glacier Bay’s wildlife, be respectful of the animals’ home. By Land By Sea Moose Porcupine Humpback Whale Orca Alces alces Erethizon dorsatum Megaptera novaeangliae Orcinus orca The largest member of You may find this prickly Of all the whale species, Often called a killer whale, the deer family is a recent member of the community humpbacks are the favorite orcas are the largest member newcomer to Glacier Bay. high up in a cottonwood of whale watchers, as they of the dolphin family. With The first moose was spotted tree nibbling tasty tender exhibit a variety of displays striking black and white here in the late 1960s. leaves. Except for their such as breaching (leaping coloration, killer whales are Despite their tremendous footpads and nose, out of the water) or slapping easy to identify from other size (bulls can weigh 1,600 pounds and cows 1,300 porcupines are completely covered with yellowish fur the ocean surface with their pectoral flippers or their cetaceans. Male killer whales can attain lengths of 32 pounds), they can appear and disappear in thick brush and quills, which are actually modified hairs tipped tails. Humpback whales are most easily spotted by their feet and weigh up to 9 tons. Females are much smaller, with surprising stealth. Moose are usually solitary, with barbs. A threatened porcupine will turn its blow. This distinctive mist occurs when whales exhale reaching 23 feet and weighing about 4 tons. Males have except for cows with calves and during the fall rutting back-end toward the source of trouble to present an warm air into colder air. Though they are extremely a tall, straight triangle dorsal fin, while female dorsal season. Their diet includes willow leaves, grasses, intimidating display of quills that firmly suggests the large animals, most observers of this whale see only the fins are curved and shorter. Orcas may be observed herbs, and aquatic vegetation. Only bulls grow antlers. would-be predator reconsider its dinner plans. dorsal fin when they come to the surface to breathe air. throughout Glacier Bay, alone and in small pods. Mountain Goat Red Squirrel Harbor Seal Sea Otter Oreamnos americanus Tamiasciurus hudsonicus Phoca vitulina richardsi Enhydra lutris Mountain goats have thick If you see a little red flash Harbor seals have a dappled Sea otters have expanded white coats of hollow hairs zipping up a tree trunk or gray coat that can be from just a few animals in that help to keep them leaping nimbly among the highly variable between the mid-1980s to around warm in extreme weather. branches, chances are it is individuals. A thick layer 8,000 in the last 25 years Goats may have been among a red squirrel. These agile of fat allows them to keep in Glacier Bay. Lacking a the first land animals to rodents spend their summer warm in icy fjords like thick layer of blubber, otters recolonize Glacier Bay after the ice retreated, coming preparing for winter by collecting and storing green Glacier Bay. The majority of harbor seals in Glacier Bay instead have the densest fur of any mammal with up over the mountains from Lynn Canal to the east. They spruce cones in their middens, mounds of cones at occur in Johns Hopkins Inlet, a spectacular tidewater to one million hairs per square inch. Sea otters are a are at home on the steep rocky cliffs in the mid-to- the base of a tree. A red squirrel can harvest 12,000 to glacier fjord that supports up to 2,000 seals where the keystone species that influence nearshore foodwebs upper bay. 16,000 spruce cones a year. habitat supports pupping, molting, and resting. and forage on a wide variety of prey. Black Bear Brown Bear Steller Sea Lion Harbor Porpoise Ursus americanus Ursus arctos Eumetopias jubatus Phocoena phocoena Black bears inhabit the Brown bears are most often Like all members of the At five feet long and about forests of the lower bay seen on the beaches or eared seal family Otariidae, 120 pounds, harbor porpoise and Bartlett Cove and can sparsely vegetated hillsides Steller sea lions can support are the smallest cetaceans often be seen grazing in of the upper bay. though themselves while ashore in Alaska waters. Often the beach meadows. They they are present throughout using both front and read seen in groups of two to ten have a straight facial profile the park. Brown bears, flippers, allowing them to throughout the bay, they and prominent ears. Black bears lack the distinctive also called grizzlies, have a prominent shoulder hump get around with surprising speed. Mature males can announce themselves by offering a brief glimpse of their shoulder hump of brown bears. Black bears stand about and a curved, “dish-shaped” facial profile. When on all weigh almost 2,000 pounds, though females average small triangular dorsal fin cutting slowly through the three feet high at the shoulder and weigh 125 to more four legs, brown bears stand about three and a half feet only 600 pounds. The number of sea lions is growing in water’s surface when they come up to catch a breath. than 300 pounds. Though they are often black, they tall, but can tower more than nine feet when standing Glacier Bay, but the population in Western Alaska has Harbor porpoise are generally dark gray with a slightly may be brown, blonde, or even blue-gray. upright. They can weigh between 500–1,000 pounds decreased by 80 percent since the late-1970s—leading pointed face. They do not ride bow waves, like their and range in color from honey blonde to dark brown to that portion of the population’s current listing as relative the Dall’s porpoise. and black. endangered. Steller sea lions are opportunistic foragers. 30 31 Wildlife

When encountering humans, most bears will run away, approach curiously, appear to ignore Be Bear Savvy the situation, or act defensively. By staying alert, calm, and tailoring your reaction to the bear’s While walking, hiking, or camping in Glacier Bay, you behavior and species, you increase the odds of a positive outcome for both you and the bear. may encounter a bear. The vast majority of these encoun- ters do not result in human injury or property damage. You can help prevent injury to yourself or to the bear by If You See a Bear taking a few basic precautions. The Bear What You Can Do

• Be alert. May or may not be aware of you What is your activity and degree of You are camping or eating (not mobile): • If you carry bear spray, know how to use it. mobility? • Keep all gear under direct control. • Be aware of what goes on around your campsite. Mother bears are protective of their cubs. You are hiking or kayaking (mobile): • Group together without blocking • Make noise, especially in wind or near rushing • Change your course to avoid bear. bear’s route. water. Be a Smart Camper • Monitor bear’s movement. • Talk calmly to make bear aware • Choose routes that offer good visibility. Both campers and bears frequent the beaches of Glacier • If bear is close, talk calmly to avoid of you. Bay. Bears only have six to eight months to acquire the • Travel in groups of two or more. surprising it. • Stand your ground. • Keep your personal items and food within reach. calories and fat reserves needed for the entire year, and the shoreline is essential for food and travel. The Moves toward you • Monitor bear’s movement. • Do not pursue or approach bears for photographs. following guidelines will minimize your disruption of • Stand your ground and talk calmly. • Avoid streams with spawning fish. bears and help keep them wild. • Allow bear to pass peacefully.

Cooking and storing food Becomes focused on you • Stay together and stand your ground. • Cook and eat in the intertidal zone at least 100 • Be assertive and elevate your defense: clap your hands, wave your arms, yards from your tent and food storage area. use noisemakers such as air horns, or bang pots together. • Wash cooking gear in marine waters. • Be prepared to quickly stow all food should a Charges • Continue to stand your ground and look big. bear suddenly approach. • Use bear spray if you have it. • Keep all food, trash, and other scented items in a • Few charges end in contact. bear-resistant food container (BRFC). If a bear makes contact • Fight back vigorously. • At night, store BRFCs and clean cooking gear in brush or behind rocks away from animal trails, • This is likely a predatory attack. 100 yards from camp, and not in your kayak. Enters your tent • Fight back. Choosing a campsite • Avoid areas with recent signs of bear activity, including an abundance of scat, animal trails, If You Surprise a Bear and chewed or clawed trees. • Avoid active salmon streams. The Bear What You Can Do Fishing the Bartlett River • Store your kayak and pitch your tent clear of May react defensively and • Stand your ground and talk calmly to the bear. the beach. • Harvested fish must be kept within 6 feet may snort, huff, pop its jaw, • Attempt to back away slowly. of person. • Select a site that would allow bears room to pass or charge • Do NOT run, this could trigger a predatory response. at high tide. • All harvested fish must be packed out whole, except for gills and entrails which should be Control your gear Begins to follow you • Stand your ground. disposed of in the deepest and fastest current • Maintain a clear view of your gear. The more Charges • Use bear spray. of the stream. spread out your gear is, the more difficult it is to • If a bear approaches while you have fish on defend. Is a brown bear and • Play dead—lie flat, face down on the ground, and lace your fingers behind the line, cut the line. • To minimize potential bear damage to gear, makes contact your head. Do not move. • Never yield your catch or other food items to consider breaking down your campsite daily. a bear or other wildlife. Is a black bear and • Fight back vigorously. makes contact • This is likely a predatory attack. 32 33 Wildlife Whale Watching To minimize disturbance to humpback whales, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve has developed some of the most protective boating rules visitors will find anywhere. Because the park’s mission is to protect and preserve these magnificent creatures, we maintain strict operating and speed restrictions to reduce the risk of disturbance and collision. 45-1776-01 9 . Rules for All National Park Waters All vessels, including kayaks, must not: • Operate within ¼ nautical mile of a humpback whale. • Pursue a humpback whale within ½ nautical mile by altering course or speed in a manner that results in decreasing the distance between the whale and the vessel. Whale Waters These are special areas in Glacier Bay that require additional speed and operating restrictions. These critical areas change depending on current whale activity in the bay. See Guide to Park Waters on page 20 for areas and dates that regulations are in effect and check at the VIS for additional temporary restrictions before setting out. National Marine Fisheries Service, permit no Biologists recognize individual whales by photographing the black and white patterns on the underside of their tails. These patterns remain the same throughout the whale’s lifetime. Rules for Lower Glacier Bay Whale Waters (May 15–Sept 30) Glacier Bay Is Home for Humpback Whales All vessels must operate within speed restrictions. Motorized vessels over 18 feet in length must: • Maintain a distance of at least one nautical mile from shore. In narrower areas, navigate a mid-channel Seeing a humpback whale in Glacier Bay is a highlight many malnourished whales. Some whales that had course (unless fishing or operating solely under sail). for many visitors. Humpbacks are huge: 40–50 feet returned to the area for decades either changed their • Approach land or shore perpendicularly, taking the most direct line to and from shore. (12–16 m) long—the size of an average school bus—and summer migratory pattern or died. Scientists have weigh over 35 tons (32,000 kg). Most Southeast Alaska since discovered that the heatwave caused significant • Watch for additional whale waters designations in other areas. Check at the VIS for current whale waters humpbacks migrate to Hawaii each winter to mate and changes in the quanity and quality of food available to boundaries and regulations. give birth, a 2,500-mile (4,000 km) journey that takes marine predators like whales. The good news is that about a month. Throughout the winter, humpbacks do in 2019 and 2020, whale counts in Glacier Bay started What do you do not eat. During the spring, summer, and fall, whales to bounce back, and calving has also rebounded, with if a whale suddenly feed on high-calorie, small schooling fish such as more calves documented in 2020 than in the previous appears in front capelin and sand lance. Biologists have identified over five years combined. Glacier Bay’s whale researchers of you? 760 individual humpbacks in Glacier Bay and nearby will continue to monitor the population and share Icy Strait since the 1970s, including some with sighting information to protect these magnificent creatures. If your vessel is accidentally positioned histories spanning 45 years. Read annual humpback whale population study reports within ¼ nautical mile Humpback whale populations worldwide increased at https://www.nps.gov/glba/learn/nature/whale_ of a humpback whale, steadily after commercial whaling ceased in the acoustic_reports.htm. 45-1776-02

immediately slow your 9 1960s. Whales thrived and, as a result, the Hawaii . vessel to ten knots or breeding population of humpback whales from the less. Don’t shift into Endangered Species List in 2016. However, unusually reverse unless impact is warm water in the Northeast Pacific Ocean in 2014- likely. Then, carefully 2016 (commonly referred to as a marine heatwave direct or maintain or “The Blob”) caused widespread disruption of the your course away marine ecosystem, including declines in the humpback from the whale until at whale population. From 2013-2018, Glacier Bay’s least ¼ nautical mile whale monitering program documented a 58% drop separation exists. in whale numbers, along with very few calves and Biologists have monitored humpback whales in Glacier Bay for over 35 years. National Marine Fisheries Service Permit No 34 35 Protect Wildlife For Teachers Life’s No Picnic You are picnicking on an idyllic beach when a boat great distance. In Johns Hopkins Inlet you must stay roars up out of nowhere. It stops just offshore from at least ¼ mile away from seals on ice. you. Its wake washes the beach, taking away your lunch. People on the boat laugh and talk loudly. Steller Sea Lions Camera flashes explode. You drop your food and Although numbers have increased here over the past dash off into the bushes, anything to get away. 20 years, some in Glacier Bay are from the endangered You have just experienced what happens to wildlife Western stock. Stay at least 100 yards away from sea when thoughtlessly approached by humans. The lions on land, and keep your distance from those in effects can be devastating. Steller sea lions tumble the water, too. over one another as they stampede into the water, female harbor seals lose their newborn pups among Nesting Birds the ice floes when they become separated. Breeding Many birds nest on the ground and are extremely birds flushed from nests leave eggs vulnerable to vulnerable to disturbance! If a bird dive-bombs or cooler temperatures and predators. makes repeated alarm calls, you are close to a nest. To reduce disturbance to wildlife and protect Watch your step to avoid crushing eggs or chicks, and sensitive areas, the park has regulations that define move away to avoid disturbing the parents guarding the minimum distances you must keep from animals the nest. You must stay at least 100 yards away from in Glacier Bay. Be aware of closures (see map on pages nesting seabird colonies, and several islands are closed to foot traffic (see map on pages 20–21). 20–21). In all situations, be aware and respectful. Using technology, Ranger Emma brings Glacier Bay to a classroom in Arizona. Remember that even if you maintain a legal distance, if an animal changes its behavior due to your Humpback Whales presence, you are too close. Whales can be startled by boats, even bumping Take Your Class on a or capsizing them. For your safety and to avoid As you admire Glacier Bay’s wildlife, keep in mind disturbance, regulations require that you stay at that every day they struggle to find what they need Trip to Glacier Bay least ¼ mile away from whales. Whales can move to eat, reproduce, protect their young, and prepare surprisingly fast, so if one surfaces near you, it is Last year, hundreds of students and teachers visited can also visit the Center for Interactive Learning and for winter as they avoid becoming food for others. recommended to make some noise by knocking on Glacier Bay National Park in the heart of winter without Collaboration (CILC) website at www.cilc.org. Search Indeed, life is no picnic for the wildlife of Glacier Bay. your boat. ever leaving their schools. Kindergartners spotted bears for programs offered by Glacier Bay and click “Request and sea otters, fourth graders catalogued humpback this Program Now.” Additionally, teachers may register Harbor Seals Black and Brown Bears whale behaviors, and high school students explored the for programs by phone at 907-697-2573. Harbor seal numbers have declined in Glacier Bay wide range of careers with the National Park Service. All of Glacier Bay is bear country! Bears may appear For a list of programs and ranger contact information, over the past 20 years. Help protect seals by travelling These students all visited Glacier Bay virtually, using anywhere at any time. Enjoy bear viewing from a safe visit www.nps.gov/glba and look at the “For Teachers” slowly and watching for them in the water and on videoconferencing equipment to connect Glacier Bay and respectful distance. Even in your kayak, don’t section and then click the “Distance Learning” tab. We icebergs Seals can be disturbed by boats even at a rangers to classrooms across the country. approach swimming bears or bears on shore. look forward to connecting to your class! Glacier Bay offers a variety of interactive, curriculum- based distance learning programs. Programs cover a variety of Glacier Bay topics and are grade appropriate. All programs encourage students to ask questions and interact with a park ranger. Sometimes students even earn a Junior Ranger sticker! Distance learning programs are offered in the winter months. Programs are free and registration starts on October 1 each year. To register for a program or receive more information, email the Glacier Bay Ranger Steve answers questions about Glacier Bay from students. Black oystercatchers nest on rocky beaches. Keep your distance! Education Team at [email protected]. You 36 37 For Kids Stay Connected As the official nonprofit education partner To Learn More of Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Visit the Alaska Geographic Park Store at the park Visitor Alaska Geographic connects people with Center and Information Station in Bartlett Cove to find the Alaska’s magnificent wildlands through best books, maps, films, and gifts related to the natural and the creation and delivery of exceptional cultural history of Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. educational products and programs. Alaska Geographic supports youth camps and Glacier Bay National Park expeditions, mentorship, stewardship and Preserve projects, and adult field courses. Together Meet the bold explorers who trekked with public land partners, Alaska Geographic glacier and waterways, scientists who is dedicated to sharing Alaska’s rich natural study the best landscapes, and the Huna and cultural heritage. Tlingit who have lived in Glacier Bay since time began. Alaska Geographic operates stores across the Item #12806, 60 pages state, including several locations in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve: at the NPS Visitor Center and Visitor Information Station Beneath the Reflections DVD in Bartlett Cove. A portion of every purchase Travel into the dark underwater made at an Alaska Geographic store stays in Ask a ranger about family-friendly activities in Bartlett Cove and check the schedule for our summer activities. world of Glacier Bay where perpetual this park to fund educational and interpretive snowfall and swirling currents shape programs and projects. the abounding patterns of life. Then, Glacier Bay offers two different booklets, depending on explore the natural and cultural Kids Love Glacier Bay your age: Since 1959, Alaska Geographic has donated more than $20 million to Alaska’s public lands. history of the bay in the bonus feature, Forever Wild. Are you ready to begin your Junior Ranger adventure? Consider supporting Alaska’s public lands by If you are between the ages of two and 200, you may becoming a member of Alaska Geographic. Item #480006, 45 min. want to become a Junior Ranger during your visit. To learn more about our work and the benefits There are two ways to pick up your Junior Ranger of membership, or to browse our selection of Glacier Bay Topographical Map Activity Booklet. Scale: 1:94,000 Alaska books, maps, and films, visit one of our This sturdy waterproof and tear- stores or point your web browser to: If you came by plane or boat to Bartlett Cove, resistant topo map is an excellent stop by the NPS Visitor Center on the second planning resource for hiking, camping, floor of the Glacier Bay Lodge or the VIS. For children between the ages of 2–6, we have the akgeo.org fishing, or hunting. The map denotes PeeWee Ranger Adventure Guide. elevations, hiking trails, campgrounds, If you are on a tour boat or cruise ship, meet For children between the ages of 6–12, pick up the cabins, and provides a synopsis of public with the ranger on board. Junior Ranger Adventure Guide. land protocols and restrictions. Item #35073001

The National Park Service Final Steps Glacier Bay Flash Drive extends a special invitation When you have completed the Over 300 photos for 4th graders to visit a activities, bring your booklet Create your own wildlife, glacier, and National Park. Thank you to a ranger, and you will be wilderness scrapbook by downloading for visiting Glacier Bay! awarded a special badge that exquisite, high-resolution photos taken makes you a Glacier Bay Pins, patches, hats, and other products in the park by local photographers. Informative captions accompany each everykidoutdoors.gov National Park Junior Ranger. featuring this unique Glacier Bay design are available exclusively from photo. Alaska Geographic. Item #30221 38 39 For More Information Emergency and Medical Assistance Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve Emergency Inside the Park PO Box 140 907-697-2651 Gustavus, AK 99826 Radio on marine band 16. 907-697-2230 There is no cell service in Glacier Bay. www .nps.gov/glba Local-use phone available at Visitor [email protected] Information Station.

facebook.com/GlacierBayNationalPark Emergency Outside the Park Gustavus Emergency Response twitter.com/GlacierBayNPS Dial 911 instagram.com/glacierbaynps Other Medical Assistance Gustavus Community Clinic 42 Dolly Varden Lane, Gustavus 907-697-3008