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Lagos: All Roads Ein Fotoessay 1. Akinbiyi-imp_ok 13.12.2004 14:28 Uhr Seite 12 1. Akinbiyi-imp_ok 13.12.2004 14:29 Uhr Seite 13 Akinbode Akinbiyi Lagos: All Roads Ein Fotoessay Die Third Mainland Bridge erstreckt stellen sind informell aber ganz ge- Die Nnamdi Azikiwe Street ist im- sich zwölf Kilometer lang von Ikoyi nau markiert. Der Schaffner ruft mer noch eine der wichtigsten Ge- Island im Südosten über die Lagune monoton die Namen der Haltestel- schäftsstraßen auf Lagos Island. In nach Norden bis zum Tollgate und len aus: „Church, Underbridge, Esta- der Kolonialzeit hieß sie Victoria zum Expressway, der Autobahn, die te, Coca-Cola, Roundabout, Adeniji.“ Street, nach Queen Victoria. Im Jahr stadtauswärts nach Ibadan führt. Auch die Fahrgäste brüllen, wenn 2001 zeigt sich die Straße in einem Von Ikoyi aus fährt man zunächst an sie aussteigen wollen. Der Busfahrer desolaten Zustand, der Asphalt wur- Lagos Island vorbei und dann über hält nur kurz an und erkämpft sich de vom Regen unterspült, die Fahr- die Lagune an Iddo Island, Oyingbo, dann wieder einen Platz im Verkehr bahndecke zerbröselt, für Instand- Ebute Metta, Yaba Makoko, Iwaya der Autobahn. Fahrgäste, die aus- haltung und Reparatur fehlt der und Akoka mit der Lagos Universität gestiegen sind, erklimmen die Bö- Stadtverwaltung das Geld. Die Bür- vorbei. Auf dem Festland geht es schung oder laufen einen Abhang gersteige vor den Geschäften ver- über Abule-Okuta, Oworonsoki, Gba- hinunter, um auf festen Pfaden zu sinken in zähem Schlamm. Nnamdi gada, Ogudu in Richtung Ojota, Ke- nahe gelegenen Stadtteilen zu ge- Azikiwe war einer der politischen tu und Tollgate. Bei fließendem Ver- langen. Manchmal stehen Taximo- Führer der Unabhängigkeitsbewe- kehr dauert die Fahrt zwanzig Mi- peds, Okadas genannt, in der Nähe gung nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg nuten, herrscht Stau, ist man meh- der Haltestellen bereit. und wurde erster Präsident des rere Stunden unterwegs. Landes. Überall auf der Strecke, wohlge- merkt eine Stadtautobahn, halten Busse und Minibusse, um Fahrgäs- te aus- und einzuladen. Die Halte- 12 | Bauwelt 48 2004 StadtBauwelt 164 | 13 1. Akinbiyi-imp_ok 13.12.2004 14:30 Uhr Seite 14 1. Akinbiyi-imp_ok 13.12.2004 14:30 Uhr Seite 15 Egungun heißen die Maskierten, die Victoria Island ist die Gegend mit dem verkehrschaotischen Lagos „The Marina“ war einst die Flanier- Stadt im Landesinneren. Der Hafen Aguda nennt man die ehemaligen in Lagos nach dem Tod oder zur Krö- den höchsten Grundstückspreisen in Island in das seinerzeit ruhige und meile von Lagos Island und zog sich ist längst an die andere Seite des Sklaven, die schon im 19. Jahrhundert nung eines Obas, des traditionellen der Stadt, extremer Wohlstand und gut zu erreichende Victoria Island vom nordwestlichen Zipfel der Insel Atlantikarms, nach Apapa, abgewan- aus Brasilien und Kuba nach Afri- Yoruba-Königs der Stadt, oder ande- Reichtum verstecken sich hinter ho- um. Aber mit ihnen kamen die Im- in südlicher Richtung an einem Arm dert. The Marina selbst ist zu einer ka zurückkehrten und sich auf Lagos rer wichtiger Persönlichkeiten die hen Mauern und Stacheldraht. In bissbuden für die Niedriglohnar- des Atlantiks entlang. Im Nordwes- mehrspurigen Schnellstraße, die von Island im Brazilian Quarter nieder- Straßen in Besitz nehmen. Hinter den vollklimatisierten Luxuslimousinen beiter, Minibusbahnhöfe und Halte- ten lagen die Zoll- und Hafengebäu- verfallenden Gebäuden gesäumt ließen. Popo ist die hiesige Bezeich- Masken stecken jugendliche männ- mit getönten Scheiben bleiben der stellen, kurz darauf die Straßen- de, wo die Kolonialwaren nach Li- wird, verkommen. Hier flaniert nie- nung für Gasse. Auf den Türschil- liche Mitglieder von Geheimbünden, Chauffeur und seine Herrschaft un- händler und die Armen vom Rand, verpool verschifft wurden, danach mand mehr, nur ab und zu verirren dern in Popo Aguda stehen Namen die mit diesem Ritual die Gesell- sichtbar. Die Tore der Villen wer- die in Lagos ihre Chance suchen kamen Geschäfts- und Verwaltungs- sich einsame Gestalten im Getöse wie Da Rocha, Da Silva, Da Costa, schaft von den Einflüssen böser Kräf- den von uniformierten Securityguar- und zu Obdachlosen werden. Heute gebäude, die anglikanische Kathe- des vorbeirauschenden Verkehrs. Campos, Carena, Branco. Hier gibt te reinigen wollen. Hier ziehen sie des geöffnet und schnell wieder ge- ist Victoria Island der teuerste drale und am südöstlichen Ende die es immer noch einige gut erhaltene bei der offiziellen Krönung des neu- schlossen. Aus den vergitterten Fens- Slum von Lagos. Residenz des Gouverneurs. Von der Beispiele brasilianischer Architek- en Obas von Lagos im August 2003 tern ihrer kleinen Wachhäuschen, Nähe zum Meer versprachen sich die tur und Bauweise, die die Heimkeh- durch die Innenstadt. Was früher ein die in der Farbe der Villa im Hinter- Briten frische Luft und eine gewis- rer mitbrachten. Inzwischen sind in der nigerianischen Kultur veran- grund gestrichen sind, beäugen sie se Distanz zu den „Eingeborenen“ im alle Epochen miteinander verwoben. kertes Ritual war, ist heute ein popu- jeden argwöhnisch, der sich dem An- Innern der Insel. listisches Spektakel. wesen nähert. Vor etwa hundert Jahren war Lagos Auf Victoria Island begannen vor Hauptstadt der britischen Kronkolo- etwa zwanzig Jahren viele Eigen- nie und wichtigste Hafenstadt in tümer ihre Wohnhäuser in gewerbli- Westafrika. Im postkolonialen Nige- che Räume umzuwidmen. Banken ria hat Lagos seine Hauptstadtfunk- und Versicherungen siedelten aus tion an Abuja abgeben müssen, eine 14 | Bauwelt 48 2004 StadtBauwelt 164 | 15 1. Akinbiyi-imp_ok 13.12.2004 14:31 Uhr Seite 16 1. Akinbiyi-imp_ok 13.12.2004 14:32 Uhr Seite 17 Bar Beach auf Victoria Island ist fast In Obalende auf Lagos Island lagen die Innenstadt von Lagos Island oder Lagos verwandelt sich unablässig. Tinubu Square auf Lagos Island war Platzmitte als Stellwände für ihre der einzige Erholungsraum in der die Kasernen der wichtigsten Armee- Richtung Osten nach Ikoyi und Vic- Noch vor kurzem war diese Kreuzung früher einer der wichtigsten Ver- Waren umfunktioniert. Alle Straßen, 15-Millionen-Metropole. Die Wellen und Polizeieinheiten. Obalende war toria Island. unter einer Hochstraße ein Ort für kehrsknotenpunkte, ein übergroßer die auf den Platz führen, und der des Atlantiks spülen ständig Strand in der Kolonialzeit als Pufferzone zwi- Verkehrsknotenpunkte in Lagos wir- Bettler, Straßenkinder, fliegende Kreisverkehr, in den mehrere Stra- Platz selbst sind voll von hektischen weg. Bereits die Briten hatten die schen den Europäern auf Ikoyi Is- ken oberflächlich betrachtet über Händler und Zeitungsverkäufer und ßen mündeten: Broad Street, Nnamdi und betriebsamen Menschen. Der Küste von Victoria Island mit Ge- land im Osten und den Eingebore- alle Maßen chaotisch, aber sobald zugleich Busparkplatz und illegale Azikiwe Street, Bamgbose Street Verkehr hat sich auf die Ringroad steinsbrocken zu befestigen ver- nen auf Lagos Island im Westen kon- man sich in die Tiefenstruktur be- Müllkippe. Engagierten Bürgern ist es und Customs Street. In der Mitte des verlagert. sucht, daher der Name Bar Beach. zipiert worden. Zudem wurden die gibt, entschlüsseln sich Ordnung und zu danken, dass der Müll bis in den Platzes wurde ein repräsentativer Der Atlantik entlang der Westküs- beiden Stadtteile durch einen groß Gesetzmäßigkeit. Die Busse sind prä- letzten Winkel abgefahren wurde, Brunnen gebaut, ein Geschenk der li- te Afrikas ist an vielen Stellen sehr angelegten Friedhof und einen Golf zise so eingeparkt, dass sie sofort dass der Verkehr ungehindert fließt, banesischen Gemeinde an die Stadt gefährlich. Die Unterwasserströ- Course getrennt. Angeblich haben abfahren können, wenn sie besetzt dass die Stützen einen neuen Farb- zum Unabhängigkeitstag am 1. Ok- mung zieht einen förmlich hinaus wir Afrikaner Angst vor Friedhöfen. sind, ebenso die Taxis. Die informel- anstrich bekommen haben und dass tober 1960. Später kam eine Sta- ins offene Meer, und die Brandung Mit dem Bau der Ringroad um La- len Marktstände haben eine gemein- Sträucher und Blumenbeete ange- tue der Namensgeberin des Platzes, ist oft gewaltig. Viele Bar-Beach-Be- gos Island in den siebziger Jahren same verkaufsstrategische Logik. legt wurden. Wir befinden uns in Madame Tinubu, hinzu, eine erfolg- sucher können nicht schwimmen, wurde das koloniale Stadtschema Wenn etwas nicht richtig läuft, liegt South West Ikoyi, einer der wohlha- reiche Geschäftsfrau des kolonialen und wer es kann, traut sich nicht ins durchbrochen. Obalende wurde zu das meist an unsinnigen Vorschrif- benden Gegenden von Lagos. Die 19. Jahrhunderts. Dem Vernehmen Wasser, zu zahlreich sind die Ge- einem der wichtigsten Verkehrskno- ten der Stadtverwaltung oder an der Falomo Bridge führt von Ikoyi Island nach handelte sie mit Sklaven. schichten von Ertrunkenen. tenpunkte in Lagos, heute Busbahn rücksichtslosen Profitgier Einzelner. nach Victoria Island in das teuerste Heute hat der Platz keine wichtige hof, Taxipark und Markt zugleich, Wohnviertel der Stadt. Verkehrsfunktion mehr. Minibusse mit täglich Zehntausenden von ein- haben ihn erobert und benutzen ihn treffenden und wegfahrenden Men- als Bahnhof. Illegale Straßenhänd- schen. Von Obalende fährt man in ler haben die Zäune der umfriedeten 16 | Bauwelt 48 2004 StadtBauwelt 164 | 17 9. Luftbild-imp_ok 13.12.2004 13:40 Uhr Seite 18 9. Luftbild-imp_ok 13.12.2004 13:48 Uhr Seite 19 Das Luftbild, aufgenommen aus 705 Kilometern Höhe, zeigt in der rechten Bildhälfte die Lagune von Lagos. An der Meerenge zwischen Lagune und Atlantik liegt Lagos Is- land, südlich darunter Victoria Is- land, daran nach Osten anschlie- ßend Lekki Peninsula. Drei Brücken führen über die Meerenge auf das Festland, die Siedlungsfläche ist an der hellrosa Färbung zu erkennen. Die Grenze der Besiedlung fällt in etwa mit der Staatsgrenze zum Nachbarland Benin zusammen. Wei- ter nach Westen schließt erst To- go und dann Ghana an. Der im Luft- bild aufgenommene Abschnitt der sogenannten Sklavenküste misst von West nach Ost etwa 500 Kilometer. Foto: USGS/Higin© 18 | Bauwelt 48 2004 StadtBauwelt 164 | 19.
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