Your Vote Counts!Starts Jan

Business cards, ﬂyers, invitations and more! Contact printshop.stripes.com 042-552-2510 (extension77315) 227-7315 VOLUME 7 NO. 19 JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 INSIDE INFO SUBMIT STORIES TO: [email protected] STRIPESKOREA.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE

YOUR VOTE COUNTS!STARTS JAN. 28 SPAM, THE LUNAR new year is upon us, and it’s time once again if you do, you may qualify to win a NEW YEAR STAR to turn your attention to the yearly tradition $300, $200 or $100 Exchange gift PAGE 2 A unlike any other – Best of the Pacific card. voting season! We at Stars and For the past 18 years, our annual Stripes want to Best of the Pacific magazine has thank you for been the authority on the best helping places YOU need to go in us make the Pacific. How do we our community products know? Because you told ones that help you enjoy us so! your stay in the Pacific. DONT MISS THESE You’ve made your That’s what we’re MUST-DOS IN KOREA voices heard over the all about. As we are PAGES 8-9 years, and in turn, fond of saying, our informed fellow papers, websites service members and magazines “are like yourselves about you, for you, of the Pacific’s and in some cases, best attractions, by you.” restaurants, festivals, Sunday brunch, The votes keep getaways and more. rolling in year after Have a favorite year and it’s all GET YOUR FOODIE FIX thanks to you! We had IN MYEONG-DONG bowling alley that also just happens to serve the a great turnout in 2018, PAGES 16-17 best wings around? What and we expect nothing about that on-base lodging short of a record number that goes above and beyond of votes in 2019. So, be sure to in the service department? We take a minute or two and vote for want to know what you like and most your favorites so even more service importantly, why you like it so much. members can experience the best the Pacific Voting is quick, easy and you just might get your has to offer! name in the magazine. So, please take a few minutes to vote by going to bestofpacific.stripes.com. And – Stars and Stripes staff

PAG E 23 VOTE BY GOING TO: bestofpaciﬁc.stripes.com

Special pullout inside! Feeling the need for speed? Top tracks in Korea for carPage junkies 12-14 2 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 In Korea, Lunar New Year isn’t Max D. Lederer Jr. Publisher Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Commander complete without a can of Spam Joshua M Lashbrook Chief of Staff Michael Davidson STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, 5th is the start of the lunar year the infamous can of Spam to the could barely afford to eat meat Revenue Director STRIPES KOREA in 2019. Growing up in Dae- prime real estate at the front of during the country’s two major Chris Verigan gu, seollal meant visits to my the store, where it sits side-by- holidays, Spam quickly became Engagement Director or many, the word grandparents’ home and lots of side with the imported wine or a special treat, becoming a sta- Marie Woods “Spam” may conjure up rice cake stew. During the holi- expensive organic mushrooms. tus symbol of wealth. Publishing and Media Design Director images of junk e-mail Chris Carlson F day, which is observed over the Though gifts include tuna, After all these years, Spam or a cheap substitute for fresh Publishing and Media Design Manager course of three days, Koreans cooking oils, and local beef remains an integral part of the meat. But the canned pink meat Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. travel back to their hometowns (Hanwoo), the best-selling gift Korean food culture and is an in- Korea Area Manager has a different position in some to pay respects to their ances- is Spam. So much so, it’s even an dispensable ingredient in budae Jinsun Song parts of the world, especially in tors, wear traditional hanbok incentive for company workers jigae, Korean for Army Stew, Operations Manager Korea. and exchange gifts with their during the holiday and Chuseok, which is popular with the both Kentaro Shimura Seollal, celebrated starting Production Manager loved ones. Korea’s harvest festival in Sep- the older and younger genera- February 4, is one of Korea’s Rie Miyoshi You’ll know it’s time for the tember. The country is now the tions of Koreans. Engagement Manager biggest holidays, and February Lunar New Year again when second biggest consumer of The taste of Spam produced Ian Waddick Denisse Rauda the local grocery stores push Spam after the U.S., according in Korea, which a Korean pro- Publishing and Media Design Editors to Hormel Foods, despite having ducer said is different to the Publishing and Media Design Writers a population less than a sixth ﬂavor of Spam produced in the ChiHon Kim Shoji Kudaka of the size of the U.S. states, and its ability to pair with Takahiro Takiguchi kimchi and rice is what keeps Layout Designers Koreans hooked. Ayako Kamio Why is Spam Yukiyo Oda Spam is also known for its Yuko Okazaki so popular extremely popular TV commer- Kayoko Shimoda cials in Korea. Since 1980, when Multimedia Consultants in Korea? Max Genao Doug Johnson The popularity of Spam was ofﬁcially imported Jason Lee Hans Simpson Spam in Korea is a left- into Korea – not smuggled out Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman over from the Korean – the company began advertis- Graphic Designers War, when it came over ing the pink meat block as the Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji with U.S. soldiers in example of luxury. Although in Sales Support the 1950s. By the end recent years Spam’s popularity Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro of the war, South Ko- has declined, in Korea, bowls Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato rea had plunged into of warm rice topped with Spam Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha crushing poverty. Meat and kimchi still conjure great For feedback and inquiries, was scarce, and for memories for generations of contact [email protected] many, Spam smuggled Koreans. And Lunar Year just To place an ad, call DSN 721-7145 from U.S. Army bases was wouldn’t be the same without it. stripeskorea.com/contact the only source. Since Koreans [email protected] JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 3 4 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019

At the society headquarters, located in Pyeonggung-ri, volunteers attempted to play “Janggu,” locals from forgetting its impact on the a Korean traditional hourglass-shaped drum. Photo by Hee Won (Joy) Bang, U.S. Army community and to preserve history. At the society headquarters, located in Pyeonggung-ri, volunteers attempted to play “Janggu,” a Korean traditional hourglass-shaped drum. They also played “Beo-na,” a Korean folk game involving spinning and balancing a plate in the air with a stick. Participants were then able to enjoy a front row seat to a musical performance. The Wootdali Culture Village, once an elementary school, offers many programs such as natural dyeing, metal craft and pottery making. Participants had an opportunity to design their own mug. “The tour was great,” said Zachariah Siemers, a civilian contractor. “Making mugs with my kids was my favorite, and it was absolutely great. This is my second tour. If another tour opens, I will try to attend with my family.” The Korea Soriter Arts Center, near Pyeongtaek Lake, was established to fos- ter cultural arts for the local community Cultural tours connect troops and provide Haegeum performances (a Korean traditional string instrument). Participants learned about Ji Young-hee, with Pyeongtaek attractions a Pyeongtaek native. He was nicknamed the “Father of Korean Folk Music” for his talent and the creation of Korean classi- BY BANG HEE-WON, Korea - U.S. Cooperation Business Group KACAC wants to organize more tours cal music. U.S. ARMY retirees. The organization has been sup- which show the variety of Korea.” “In spite of the chilly weather, it was porting various community relations cul- During the tour, the group visited the a very good experience,” said Command PYEONGTAEK-SI – Despite cold weath- tural trips, through the Good Neighbor Pyeongtaek Nong-ak (Korean traditional Sgt. Maj. Thomas Johnson, of Headquar- er in Pyeongtaek, 25 Camp Humphreys’ program, for Camp Humphreys. folk music) Preservation Society, Wootda- ters and Headquarters Battalion, Eighth service members, civilians and their fam- “We organized this tour to share Kore- li Cultural Village, and Korea Soriter Arts Army. “The food, making pottery, instru- ily members enjoyed the Pyeongtaek City an tradition, culture and to communicate Center, to experience something unique ment demonstration, and sightseeing at Tour, hosted by Korea-America Coopera- with Americans,” said Kim Dong-sook, and not commonly known to tourists. Pyeongtaek Lake, everything was good. tion Advisory Council on Dec. 8. KACAC president. “So, the most impor- Pyeongtaek Nong-ak Preservation So- If another tour opens in the future, I will KACAC, based in Pyeongtaek, was es- tant thing in planning a tour was mutual ciety was founded in 1980, for the purpose deﬁnitely attend and recommend this to tablished in July 2017 by the Republic of cooperation and communication. Also, of preserving Nong-ak and preventing other people.”

Home Business Directory JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 5

A magpie ﬂies near the ﬂight line at Kunsan Air Base on Dec. 17.

A different type of defender

STORY AND PHOTOS BY The BASH team consists of over 40 vol- trainer, sees the program as an extension of The 8th Fighter Wing Flight Safety office STAFF SGT. JOSHUA EDWARDS, displays Bird and Wildlife Aircraft Strike unteers who work to prevent aircraft mis- his job. Hazard statistics. 8TH FIGHTER WING haps such as these. “I already take care of all the different “Our biggest concern is to make sure aircrew safety requirements for a lot of the KUNSAN AIR BASE – Certain individuals the runway is clear,” Muto said. “First, you pilots’ gear,” said Hall. “I can continue that are a nuisance to the flight line and the op- want to try to scare the animals away. Birds by preventing bird and mammalian strikes erations conducted there. They congregate tend to fly around in circles and come back that could cause an aircraft to go down and around the runway and can cause thou- like a boomerang.” prevent them from having to use [that] sands of dollars in damage to aircraft if left To prevent them from continuously com- equipment.” unmanaged. This troublesome group isn’t ing back, BASH members do what they Muto emphasized the importance of the typical adversary: they are birds. can to reduce the bird population on base, BASH’s role in ensuring pilots have a Master Sgt. Theodore Muto, 8th Fighter including using air cannons, which make a safe environment in which to operate. Wing flight safety manager, and the Bird loud noise to startle the flocks and keep both “The ultimate goal is to shoot for zero and Wildlife Aircraft Strike Hazard group, animals and aircraft safe. There are 26 of bird strikes,” he said. also known as BASH, help control the popu- these cannons installed around the perim- For more information on the BASH pro- lation of birds and other animals around the eter of the runway and they are routinely gram, please call the Flight Safety of- flight line using a variety of methods. fired via remote control to ensure the air- fice at DSN 782-4832. “A lot of people discount it saying … ‘We field is clear before takeoff. BASH mem- don’t need this. These are silly birds.’ Until bers also employ shotguns if needed. a bird goes down the [intake] … that right One of the BASH members, Tech. Sgt. there justifies the program,” said Muto. Erick Hall, 8th Operations Support This year at Kunsan Air Base, there Squadron aircrew flight have been three bird-aircraft strikes, with equipment lead one incident causing over $50,000 worth of damage when a bird went into a jet’s intake U.S. Air Force Tech. Sgt. system. Erick Hall, 8th Operations Support Squadron aircrew flight equipment lead trainer, aims a shotgun near the runway at Kunsan Air Base on Dec. 13. 6 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 7 Actors Megan Fox, George Eads visit Yongsan

STORY AND PHOTO BY KIM GAMEL, after they got to view an exclu- the Pulitzer Prize for interna- STARS AND STRIPES sive clip pulled together from Published: Jan. 10, 2019 tional reporting. rough cuts. Eads plays Colonel Steven, a YONGSAN GARRISON – Ac- Fox, of “Transformers” leader of the landing operation tors Megan Fox and George and “Teenage Mutant Ninja that included so-called student Eads visited with Turtles” fame, soldiers, young men who volun- real warriors EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: smiled as sev- teered or were forced to fight in eral soldiers pro- during a meet- the war. fessed their love and-greet on this The film is directed by Kwak Army garrison from the crowd. Kyung-taek, and also fea- in the heart of Eads, a long- tures South Korean stars Kim Seoul, where they’re filming a time star of “CSI: Crime Scene Myung-min and Choi Min-ho. new Korean War movie. Investigation” and, more re- The production company, The stars took a break from cently, “MacGyver,” drew filming “Jangsari 9.15” to an- whoops when he said he’s from Taewon Entertainment, also swer questions and pose for a military family and grew up made the 2016 movie “Opera- photos for a packed audience in Texas near Fort Hood. tion Chromite,” which starred “Transformers” star Megan Fox poses for a photo with soldiers and other fans Wednesday at the Yongsan “It’s always been a dream of outside the theater at Yongsan Garrison in Seoul, South Korea, Wednesday, Jan. 9. Liam Neeson as Gen. Douglas movie theater. mine to be in a war movie,” he MacArthur. Variety reported “It’s the least that we can do said. operation that was part of the three-year war. that the release date is planned to show appreciation for what The South Korean-produced Battle of Incheon, a turning Fox plays Marguerite Hig- for sometime this year. you do every day,” Fox told the movie will tell the story of the point for U.S.-led forces bat- gins, a war correspondent who [email protected] soldiers and civilian employees 1950 Jangsa Marine landing tling communist troops in the became the first woman to win Twitter: @kimgamel

+81 (3) 5441-9800 8 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019

Skyline Photo courtesy of Koridoor Tours

KORIDOOR TOURS bitterness of the cold war and a nation process to lock on a tour date for the Amusement Parks that is separated but technically still in Blue House, but it is well worth it to see outh Korea, or the “Land of the a state of war. where the country’s leadership resides. For those people who enjoy theme Morning Calm,” is quite often Take note as tours to this area have When you walk around Seoul, you parks, you are going to fall in love with S seen or heard about in the media been temporarily suspended by the may come across a place called Jogye Everland. Everland is home to the fast- due to rising tensions with the North, U.S.-led United Nations Command. Temple. Joyge Temple has the largest est roller coaster in Asia. There several but this article will not dwell in the The War Memorial in Seoul, however, worship hall in Seoul. It features Bud- other fast rides to fulfill the needs of an negative side, but rather the positive. is still open to provide you with your dhism as the local religion and its incor- adrenaline junky. Animal lovers can ex- Home to over 30,000 U.S. military per- history fix. Learn about the conflict that porated elements, Shamanism and its perience a “safari.” You can meet a va- sonnel and their families, South Korea happened over 50 years ago that still af- ideology. Furthermore, you can check on riety of animals, including the King of is full of activities and places to help fects current events to this day. other parts of Korean Buddhism as there animals. foreigners enjoy their time here. If you like to read everything, then are special shrines set aside in many Next on our list is the Lotte Aquari- prepare yourself to spend hours here temples. um. It features beluga whales, sea otters, taking in all the information that this Last but certainly not least, don’t for- penguins and much more. The best part JSA place has to offer. get to check out the Suwon Fortress. is watching those furry and cute Complete your stay with a stop at some sea otters during feeding time. Gyeongbok Palace of these places and learn how Korea op- erated in ancient times. A-Z Shopping in Korea Don’t miss out on partaking in some shopping. What would a visit be without buying some memorable knick knacks? There is everything, from souvenirs and cosmetics to clothing. Good prices and Photo courtesy of Koridoor Tours Photo courtesy of Koridoor Tours good quality. There is quite a selection N Seoul Tower Cross the border to North Korea of traditional market places and shop- Feeling the history ping districts to choose from in Seoul. The DMZ is one of the most heavily- The most popular places are Namdae- guarded / armed country borders in the in middle of modern city mun, Dongdaemun, Myeongdong, and world. Besides the Gyeongbokgung and Insadong. Most traditional souvenirs are From the third tunnel to the Joint Changdeokgung Palaces, there are found in Insadong. Myeongdong is more Security Area (JSA), this destina- many more places to check out in Seoul. of a trendy shopping area. tion serves as a stark reminder of the You may have to go through a bit of a

Namdaemun

Everland

File photo

Filee pphoto oto

Suwon Fortress

Lotte World Photo courtesy of Koridoor Tours File photo FileFilep photohoto JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 9 6 K ark’ opens in Busan ilometer ‘Green Line P

HAPS KOREA MAGAZINE

he city of Busan has built public resting areas with Ttrails and greenery under the Donghae Nambu Line’s elevated tracks. The city announced last week Green that it has completed its Green Line Line Park project to build a Pa 6-kilometer trail of forest from rk m Hamajeong Crossroad to Won- ap dong Bridge. It utilized the neglected space under the elevated railroad of the Donghae Nambu line in Busan- jin district. The new Green Line Park has a variety of themed areas for members of the community Afte to walk through r and rest in. There is also a walkway where hapskorea.com B you can see the efor ﬂowers of the e four seasons. Additionally, installation of pergo- las and a sports facility for the convenience of its guests has been built. It is expected that the once dormant Oncheonnchun Railway Bridge will become a famous landmark in the area for visitors to take photos of the river.

Tropical Island in Korea Seoul Skyline South Korea’s version of Hawaii, N Seoul Tower, located on Namsan Jeju Island has its own culture, dialect, Mountain, will give you an amazing style, a beautiful aqua blue ocean view view of the lights and night life of Ko- and a warm sun for those that despise rea. You can take a cable car up and cold weather. In 2011, Jeju Island was be rewarded with an amazing view of named one of the New 7 Wonders of the Seoul skyline. This is where couples Nature and is increasingly becoming come with locks as a symbol of their love a popular travel destination for both and tie it to the fence. If you visit there domestic and overseas tourists. Jeju with your loved one, bring a lock along. Island was formed by volcanic lava And don’t forget the check out the N tow- meat (mostly beef or pork) how you like This fish market is chaotic and not flows. Stay in Jeju City and explore the er’s observatory deck. You can see 360° it. During your meal, you will get an un- organized, but you can negotiate with the island’s beaches, parks, and towns dur- view of Seoul skyline. Always a beautiful limited side dishes. seller for your preferred price. After pur- ing an overnight trip. view, but nighttime is the best. If you want a fishy experience, then chase, they will immediately take the fish There are many more things to do in head over to the famous Fish Market lo- from the tank and cut it up. From there, Korea, but his list will get you started cated in Seoul. All the fish are alive and you can go to a restaurant and have them on the right foot. Be sure to stop by Ko- Meat vs. Fish swimming in tanks. Can’t get prepare the fish the ridoor tours for more information on all Korean BBQ is the most traditional any fresher than that. way you’d like. of these activities. and famous Korean meal. Korean BBQ restaurants are very similar. You’ll sit down at a table with a fire grill in the middle, and then you get to cook your

Koridoor Tours TEL: +82 2 6383 2570 Ext.1 EMAIL: [email protected]

Jeju Island

Photos courtesy of Koridoor Tours 10 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 Winter like a Korean at a Jjimjilbang

KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION new experiences. For instance, you can look like Princess Leia with a rolled towel he best place to spend winter is in- on your head or try traditional steamed side where you can be warm and eggs. Jjimjilbang are also great for trav- T toasty! What better place than in a elers looking for super cheap accommo- jjimjilbang, Korea’s traditional sauna. At dations, as long as you don’t mind sharing a jjimjilbang, you can try sauna rooms in the room with a dozen or more people. For a wide range of temperatures from steam- a unique winter experience, check out Spasis Photo courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization ing hot to freezing cold, as well as try out one of the jjimjilbang in this column.

Traditional Oriental Forest Land

f food is at the top of your list, then Tra- QADDRESS: 75-7, Bongwonsa-gil, Seodaemun-gu, ditional Oriental Forest Land is the place Seoul for you! This jjimjilbang features plenty of Q DIRECTIONS: Take Bus No. 7024 from Sinchon I Station (Seoul Subway Line 2), Exit 3 → Get off tasty snacks lightly toasted over oak charcoal at Bongwonsa-gil Bus Stop and walk for approx. to bring out their ﬂavors! The in-sauna snack 5 min bar sells everything you could hope for, from Q OPERATING HOURS: Open 24/7 (Day 5 a.m. - 8 garaetteok (rice cake stick) and sikhye (sweet p.m. / Night 8 p.m. - 5 a.m.) rice drink) to potatoes, sweet potatoes, eggs, QADMISSION - Day: Adults 12,000 won / and even tangerines; and of course, it wouldn’t Teenagers & Children 6,000 won / be Korea without cup ramyeon! Preschoolers 4,000 won When visiting Traditional Oriental Forest - Night: Adults 13,000 won / Land, keep your eyes open for Nabi, the resi- Teenagers & Children 6,000 won / dent cat! She especially loves the tepid room Preschoolers 4,000 won QINQUIRIES: +82-2-365-2700 (Korean only) and can often be found lounging about here. Q WEBSITE: inforest.koreahb.kr (Korean, English, Another unique feature to check out is the ther- Japanese) apy room. The hot brazier will warm up even Traditional Oriental Forest Land the coldest people! Photo courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization

SPASIS

hile the invention of saunas and fried QADDRESS: 263, Gyeongin-ro, Michuhol-gu, chicken may not be attributed to Ko- Incheon rea, there is no denying Korea’s love QDIRECTIONS: Walk for approx. 10 min from Dohwa W Station (Seoul Subway Line 1), Exit 2 of them! Spasis in Incheon is the only jjimjilbang QOPERATING HOURS: Day 6 a.m. - 8 p.m. / Night in Korea where you can enjoy these two Korean 8 p.m. - 6 a.m. favorites together! Order the classic fried chick- QADMISSION en or Korean varieties such as hot and spicy or - Day: Adults 10,000 won / Teenagers 9,000 won soy sauce-marinated chicken; boneless chicken / Children 4,000 won - Night: Adults 11,000 won / Teenagers 9,000 won is a popular choice for people who want to eat / Children 4,000 won with less mess. The serving sizes here are large, * Free admission for infants under 24 months so be sure to come with an empty stomach, and QINQUIRIES: +82-32-866-4545 (Korean only) don’t forget to order a beer for the true Korean QWEBSITE: www.spasis.co.kr (Korean only) chimaek (chicken and beer) experience. After Spasis getting your ﬁll, you can relax in the Himala- Photo courtesy of yan salt room, play a round of pool, or watch a Korea Tourism Organization movie!

The Spa in Garden 5

or a spa with a view, head to The Spa in Q ADDRESS: 10, Chungmin-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Garden 5, located in the Songpa-gu dis- Q DIRECTIONS: Walk for approx. 10 min from trict of Seoul; the bathing area is famous Jangji Station (Seoul Subway Line 8), Exit 1 F QOPERATING HOURS: Day 5 a.m. - 9 p.m. / Night for its view of the sky and Lotte World Tower. 9 p.m. - 5 a.m. / Weekends 5 a.m. Saturday - 5 Enjoy the various pools before heading to the a.m. Monday / Public holidays 5 a.m. - 5 a.m. communal area, with sauna rooms for every (next day) style. After trying out the saunas, enjoy some QADMISSION snacks and light conversation overlooking the - Day: Adults 10,000 won / Children 8,000 won / Pre- schoolers 6,000 won Heavenly Garden Atrium. Tables and chairs - Night & weekends: Adults 12,000 won / Children are placed around the area for added comfort. 10,000 won / Preschoolers 8,000 won * Children (elementary school students) / Pre- schoolers (25 months – 6 years) * Free admission for infants 24 months and younger (1,000 won charged separately for clothing) QINQUIRIES: +82-2-404-2700 (Korean only) The Spa in Garden 5 QWEBSITE: www.spagarden5.co.kr (Korean, Photo courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization English, Japanese, Chinese) JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 11

Club K Seoul

he lounge QADDRESS: 524, Seolleung-ro, Gangnam-gu, of Club Seoul K Seoul, QDIRECTIONS: Walk for approx. 5 min from T Seolleung Station (Seoul Subway Line 2, located near Se- Bundang Line), Exit 10 olleung Station, QOPERATING HOURS: combines the Jjimjilbang: Open 24/7 relaxing atmo- Café: 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. sphere of a spa Lounge (Jazz Bar): 4 p.m. - 1 a.m., Closed Sun days with visual and QADMISSION: literary arts. - CS-All Ticket (24 hr): Adults 20,000 won / Visitors will be Children price not set pleased with the - CS Ticket (12 hr) book café, lifestyle shop, therapy shop, fitness Day (5 a.m. - 8 p.m.) Adults 10,000 won / Children 6,000 won Night (8 p.m. - 5 a.m.) Adults 12,000 won / Children 6,000 won club, jazz bar and other cultural amenities. One - S-Ticket (5 hr) entire wall of the lounge area is covered in book- Morning (5 a.m. - 8 p.m.) Adults 7,000 won / Children 5,000 won shelves filled with books. If you can’t find one to Day (8 a.m. - 8 p.m.) Adults 9,000 won / Children 5,000 won read, you can simply enjoy the cultured interior, Night (8 p.m. - 5 a.m.) 11,000 won / Children 5,000 won increased by world famous paintings that scroll - C-Ticket (5 hr): Adults & Children 5,000 won by on the digital frame. The fitness club operates * Ticket classifications: C – Club (jjimjilbang), S - Sauna * Adults (ages 8+) / Children (ages 3-7) on a membership system, but also offers a free QINQUIRIES: +82-2-563-1145 (Korean, English, Japanese) Club K Seoul lounge Photos courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization 1-day experience. QWEBSITE: www.clubkseoul.com (Korean only) Songpa Park Habio Water Kingdom & Jjimjil Spa

ark Habio’s Water Kingdom and Jjimjil Spa is the largest wa- QADDRESS: Park Habio Bldg. 202, 111, Songpa-daero, Songpa- Weekdays: Adults 45,000 won (Afternoon 30,000 won) / ter play and spa facility in Seoul. The young at heart will love gu, Seoul Children 35,000 won (Afternoon 20,000 won) Q Weekends & public holidays: Adults 55,000 won (Afternoon the fun water slides and pools in Water Kingdom, while those DIRECTIONS: Walk for approx. 5 min from Jangji Station (Seoul P Subway Line 8), Exit 4 35,000 won) / Children 45,000 won (Afternoon 25,000 won) looking for more rest than excitement can relax to their heart’s con- QOPERATING HOURS: QINQUIRIES: +82-1600-0666 (Korean, Japanese) tent in the many sauna rooms. - Jjimjil Spa: Open 24/7 (Day 6 a.m. - 9 p.m. / Night 9 p.m. - 6 a.m.) QWEBSITE: waterkingdom.habio.co.kr (Korean only) Water Kingdom reigns supreme with the nation’s longest torrent - Water Kingdom: Weekdays 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. (Afternoon 2 p.m. - 6 river, the Wild Wet River. This ride uses water jets to propel riders p.m. ) / Weekends & public holidays 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. (Afternoon at a rapid pace; the use of a life vest and tube is required for safety. 3 p.m. - 7 p.m.) In the Jjimjil Spa, choose from the oak charcoal room, salt room, ice QADMISSION: - Jjimjil Spa room, jewel room, red clay room, or any of the other sauna rooms Day: Adults 12,000 won / Children 9,000 won for some much deserved R&R. If simply resting is too boring, enjoy Night, weekends & public holidays: Adults 14,000 won / Chil- COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM the additional entertainment amenities, including a Playstation zone, dren 11,000 won ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED board games, and book rentals. - Water Kingdom www.visitkorea.or.kr 12 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019

Photo by Kim ChiHon

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B learn about basic d

RUNNING TIME: 10 min. R celeration, braking,

OPERATING HOURS: Tues. – Sun. 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. (Closed Mon., New Year’s Holidays) I learn useful skills to re

PRICE: 40,000 KRW per person H conditions. The course als

I off-road experience with b

’ Korean N Personally, I didn’t ﬁnd the fu

k Photo by Kim ChiHon A ence, but don’t let me discoura a JCW TAXI PROGRAM D

S The JCWJC TAXI Program involves riding in a high-performance model MINI. L

T Can I give you a ride? DDueue to itsits size and horsepower, it is the most underrated offering at the center in O

- Taewo deuril kkayo? comparicomparison to the M TAXI (M5). But – if you ask me –there’s no question the

H ADVANCED PROG Thank you for the ride. MINI isis the most fun-to-drive car I have ever ridden in. It is an ideal program N

- Taewo jusyeoseo gamsahapnida. If you have more than two year to undunderstande the performance of the front-wheel-drive car, and the well- E

vanced, Intensive and M Drift Program

I have a ﬂat tire. adadjustedjuste suspension makes you feel very connected with the track as the G

- Peongkeuga nasseoyo. Advanced promises the most bang for ccarar turnstu the corner. If the M TAXI Program is all booked, I think the W Can you take me to (place)? JCJCWW TAXI Program is a great alternative. Children must be at least the loud roar and peeling out in a fast ca

- (place)kkaji taewo jullaeyo? 5555-inches-i tall to ride. My car broke down. H - Nae chaga gojang nasseoyo. RUNNING TIME: 10 min. NOTE: Due to winter road conditions, only the M TAXI an

I ran out of gas. OPERATING HOURS: Tues. - Sun. 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. (Closed Mon., New Year’s Holidays) E up at the end of February. - Gireumi tteoreo jyeosseoyo. PRICE: 20,000 KRW per person

Please ﬁll it up. E - Gadeuk chaewojuseyo.

NOTE: Book in advance, as there were quite a few people waiting, even though I L I had a car accident. - Jeo chasago nasseoyo. went on a weekday morning. Don’t forget to bring your international driver’s license if you want to get behind the wheel. JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 13

Inje Speedium

f you have enough skills to play on the race tracks, go straight to the circuit. Located in Inje- Other tracks Igun Kangwon-do region of Korea, Inje Speedium is about three hours from Camp Humphreys and Osan Air Base. The track features significant eleva- to hit tion changes and the whole 2.6-mile course is shaped like a sea horse. It meets the global standards (Fed- eration Internationale de L’Automobile -FIA ADDRESS: Inje International Circuit, 242-2 Buku-ri, Girin-myeon, Inje-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea Grade 2), allowing for PHONE: +82 2 561 6990 all categories of mo- CIRCUIT TYPE: Permanent road course tor racing. They also GETTING THERE BY CAR have a 134-room hotel Camp Humphreys to Inje International Circuit where you can overlook (2h 50 min.) Osan Air Base to Inje International Circuit the entire circuit and (2h 35 min.) impressive 20,000-seat GETTING THERE BY BUS grandstand. Aside from Pyeongtaek Intercity Bus Terminal → enjoying car racing, Dong Seoul Bus Terminal → visitors can soak in oth- Inje Bus Terminal → Inje speedium About 6hours er parts of the Korean motorsports culture and have a blast at One-Stop Auto Theme Park. In the summer, you can also ed enjoy a variety of other activities such as river- bucking and 63-meter bungee jumping into the Naerin-cheon stream near the circuit. ? In order to drive, you d need to get a circuit license, which takes about two hours and costs 100,000 won. Things you need to heir fix bring for racing: International or domestic driver’s license (Military driver’s licenses are not accepted), a helmet, gloves, long-sleeved shirt and pants and running shoes. Helmet and gloves are available for riving center BMW has rent, and fees vary by session and vehicle. Check out wo being in Germany and www.speedium.co.kr for more info. ig. All in all, the six driv- Photos courtesy of Inje Speedium restaurants and more are equivalent of 33 football has plenty to do even if Korea International Circuit , is 10 minutes from the an hour and 20 minutes ocated in Yeongam-gun, Jeollanam-do region ys. of Korea, the Korea International Circuit L (KIC) is the hybrid F1 circuit that is about a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Camp Humphreys and Osan Air Base. Unlike the majority of F1 circuits that are de- signed to run clockwise, the KIC runs coun- ter-clockwise. It is the first circuit in Korea to meet the Federation Internationale de L’Automobile (FIA) Grade 1 standard. Inje Speedium located in Inje-gun, Kangwon-do meets the FIA 2 standard, which is a lower grade. BASIC The circuit consists of two tracks – an F1 grand prix track, which incorporates a partial street track, ROGRAMS and a nearly two- mile permanent lso includes Challenge A, ADDRESS: 2, Epeuwon-ro, Yeongam-gun, track. The total Jeollanam-do Programs where you can length of the cir- PHONE: +82-61-288-4207 driving skills such as ac- cuit stretches URL: www.koreacircuit.kr and handling. You can nearly 3.5 miles, GETTING THERE BY CAR eact to unexpected road featuring an F1 Camp Humphreys to KIC (3h 16 min.) so provides an authentic Osan Air Base to KIC (3h 40 min.) pit building, con- GETTING THERE BY TRAIN banks, slopes and more. trol tower, media Jije station to Mokpo station un in the off-road experi- center, building (SRT train-1h 50 min., 38,600won) age you from trying it. for teams and a → Take a Taxi (35min /15000KRW) or bus (No.300 grandstand hold- /1h30m / 2000 KRW ) ing up to 120,000 spectators. The GRAMS track is regarded as a difficult circuit. You’ll need to get a circuit license (about 150 rs driving experience, the Ad- min. and 100,000 won) if you want to drive on ms might be suited for you. The this circuit. r your buck. If you really enjoy Things you need to bring for racing: In- ar, choose M Drift. ternational or domestic driver’s license (military driver’s license is not accepted), a helmet, gloves, long- nd JCW TAXI are available. The other programs open back sleeved shirt and pants and running shoes. Helmet and gloves are available for rent with fees that vary by session and vehicle. SEE SPEED ON PAGE 14 Photo coutesy of KIC 14 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019

Explore Seoul with special pass various card to your venues and phone, how- STORY AND PHOTO BY CHIHON KIM, duty-free ever, the STRIPES KOREA shops across app will not the city. You can also use the card for work for train, taxi or bus fares. The urchasing a SEOUL TRAVEL public transportation, adding money to app and card also includes 24-hour use PASS will allow you to get the it as needed to pay for the subway, bus of Seoul’s public bicycles, a one-way most bang for your buck if you P or taxi conveniently. Designated local ride on the Airport Express Train from plan on exploring the South Korean capital. Exclusively for foreigners, the dealers (Incheon, Gimpo Airport and Incheon to Seoul and one free ride on a pass will get you free admission or a the Myeong-dong Tourist Information Seoul city tour. discount to 96 major tourist attractions, Center) sell the pass, which can be used PRICES: 24-hour pass 39,900 won / including Gyeongbokgung Palace and for 24 to 72 hours depending on which 48-hour pass 55,000 won / 72-hour pass Namsan Seoul Tower. Cardholders will pass you purchase. The Seoul Travel 70,000 won also get discounts for performances at PASS app brings the convenience of the [email protected]

SPEED: Feeling the need?

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 14 FOOD Terrasse, on the second ﬂoor of the building, is a restaurant where you can enjoy high-quality cuisine overlooking the race tracks. If you do a training program that takes a few hours, you’ll likely need some food while you’re there. Terrasse offers European dishes in a German atmosphere. There’s also Hwang- hae-haemul-kalguksu, only a 10-minute drive from the center. There, you’ll ﬁnd great hot noo- dle soup with fresh sea- Photo courtesy of Hwanghae restaurant food. (Address: 37, Masir- an-ro, Jung-gu, Incheon) At the M zone and showroom check out the latest cars, including And don’t forget to check out the Chinatown near Yeong- the MINI, and motorbikes. Even have a seat inside your favorite car. jongdo Island while you’re in the area. Photos by Kim ChiHon [email protected] JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 15

SAVEMORE 16 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019

Signature dumpling R Photo courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization e c o m m en in de KOREAA TOURISMTOURISM d ORGANIZATIONANIZATZA ION M Re yeong-dongyeong-doongn is st onene of tththehe mostmost y aur M visited reregionsegions by in-in- e ants ternationalonalal touristss in Seoul! SevSeSev-- o eral restaurants canan bebe foundfound withinwithwithiin n the alleys, ready too serve thet many pepeopleeople g- who ﬂock to the area.ea. FromFro the elegant hotelhoteotel bufbuf-f- dong fet restaurants to long-establishedlonong-established single dishd restaurestau-- rants, it is safe to say that Myeong-dong is heaven to food lovers. For those who still haven’t decided what to eat in Myeong-dong, you’re in luck! This article lists eight of the most popular restaurants according to the results from one of Korea’s widely used dining mobile apps. Whether it’s Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Western cuisine you’re looking for, choose any of the restaurants below and you will not be disappointed!

Menus available at La Seine Photo courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization Delicious cuisines at Aria Photo courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization One-stop restaurant that has it all! All-in-one exquisite feast! Lotte Hotel Seoul’s La Seine Westin Chosun Hotel Seoul’s Aria At Lotte Hotel Seoul’s La Seine, expert chefs show off their skills as they prepare As the representative restaurant of Westin Chosun Hotel Seoul, Aria offers a plethora delicious meals at a total of eight distinguished stations – Asian cuisine, Japanese cui- of extravegant menus where you can enjoy a course meal of appetizers, main dish and sine, Western cuisine, noodles, cold meal, Korean grill, dessert, and beverage bar. The desserts all at one place. With live cooking stations dedicated to Korean & Chinese cui- plethora of food is prepared to serve the appetites of all visitors. As a luxurious hotel sine, Japanese cuisine, grill, pasta, salad, and more, sizzling sounds and savory smells buffet restaurant, fresh and quality ingredients are carefully selected at La Seine in will stimulate your senses while you indulge yourself . Each cooking station presents order to provide a splendied dining experience. the hotel’s specialized menus on a real-time basis. In particular, the Asian cuisine sta- Among the diverse cuisines available, the Japanese section is La Seine’s most prized tion has much to offer while the fancy dessert section is popular among guests with a station in particular as the chef prepares sushi right on the spot upon order, giving one sweet tooth. the feeling of being at a traditional Japanese restaurant. Approximately 200 delightful Q ADDRESS: menus are prepared daily, with grilled lamb chops for lunch on weekdays, lobster for 106, Sogong-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul Q OPERATING HOURS: dinner and weekends; other menus include king crab, rice noodles, and curry. - Weekdays: Breakfast 7 a.m. -10 a.m. / Lunch 11:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m. / Dinner 5:30 p.m. - 10 Q ADDRESS: 30, Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul p.m. Q OPERATING HOURS: - Weekends & Public holidays: Breakfast 7 a.m. -10 a.m. / 1st Lunch 11:30 a.m.-13:20 / 2nd - Weekdays: Breakfast 6 a.m.-10 a.m. / Lunch 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. / Dinner 6 p.m.- 10 p.m. Lunch 13:50-15:40 / 1st Dinner 17:20-19:20 / 2nd Dinner 19:50-21:50 - Weekends & Public holidays: Breakfast 6 a.m.-10 a.m. / 1st Lunch 11:30 a.m. -1:30 p.m. / - Open all year round (subject to change) 2nd Lunch 2 p.m. - 4 p.m. / 1st Dinner 5:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m./ 2nd Dinner 8 p.m. - 10 p.m. QPRICES: - Open all year round (subject to change) - Breakfast: Adults & Teenagers 55,000 won / Children & Preschoolers 29,000 won QPRICES (AS OF LATE 2018): - Weekday Lunch: Adults & Teenagers 109,000 won / Children 62,000 won / Preschoolers 40,000 - Breakfast: Adults & Teenagers 59,300 won / Children 33,900 won won - Weekday Lunch: Adults & Teenagers 95,000 won / Children 59,000 won - Weekday Dinner, Weekend & Public holiday Lunch·Dinner: Adults & Teenagers 137,000 won / - Weekday Dinner, Weekend & Public holiday Lunch·Dinner: Adults & Teenagers 113,000 won / Children 68,000 won / Preschoolers 45,000 won Children 62,000 won QWEBSITE: twc.echosunhotel.com (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) * Price will be adjusted from January 2019 (TBA) QWEBSITE: www.lottehotel.com (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED www.visitkorea.or.kr JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 17

Collaboration of juicy dumplings andnd ChickenC soup to nurture your body! noodles! BaekjeB Samgyetang Myeongdong Kyoja Baekje Samgyetang specializes in samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup). The restaurant Myeongdong Kyoja has become a landmark of provides menus written in English, Japanese and Myeong-dong with its specialties of kalguksu (noo- Chinese,C allowing non-Korean speakers to order dle soup) and mandu (dumplings) for the past 50 withw ease. The restaurant’s specialty is made of years. The restaurant gained even more popularity tendertet chicken boiled over a long period of time after it was awarded with the Bib Gourmand distinctionion alongal with nutritious ingredients such as glutinous by the Michelin Guide. The hand-made, dough noodles rice, garlic, chestnut, ginseng, jujube and more. and diced meat in chicken broth go splendidly well with Signature dumpling The mouth-watering chicken goes well with the Photo courtesy the restaurant’s other specialty, mandu. The mandu is chewy texture of rice, and the healthy broth is too Samyetang Photo courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization scrumptiously ﬁlled with meat and vegetables, oozing out of Korea Tourism Organization delicious to be left unﬁnished. juice in every bite. Myeong-dong Kyoja is also well known The ginseng liquor and chalbap (cooked glutinous rice) that come along with samgyetang are also for their generous services as additional noodles and rice noteworthy. The alcohol made of ginseng, a well-known high-quality medicinal herb, goes so well are provided free of charge upon request. with samgyetang that many people make a separate purchase of this impressive liquor. Chalbap has an interesting chewy texture different from regular cooked rice. Q ADDRESS (MAIN BRANCH): 29, Myeong-dong 10-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul Q OPERATING HOURS: 10:30 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. / Open year round (subject to change) Q ADDRESS: 30-1, Myeongdong-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul QPRICES: Kalguksu 8,000 won / Mandu 10,000 won Q OPERATING HOURS: 9 a.m.-10 p.m. / Open all year round (subject to change) QWEBSITE: www.mdkj.co.kr (Korean, English, Japanese) QPRICES: Samgyetang 16,000 won / Ginseng samgyetang 21,000 won / Ginseng liquor 4,000 won

Specializing in gomtang for Mouthwatering taste of 70 years! Hadongkwan Jirisan Mountain black pork! Since its opening in 1939, Hadongkwan has Yuktongryeong become quite famous. During lunch time, people can As the only restaurant where one can get be seen willingly waiting in line for a hearty meal of a taste of the famous Jirisan Mountain black gomtang (bone soup). Gomtang, a soup made of meat pork in Seoul, Yuktongryeong flourishes and bones boiled to broth for hours, is a well-recom- with customers every day. The restaurant’s mended winter dish that will fill your stomach and popularity greatly increased thanks to its Thick slices of Jirisan Mountain black pork keep you warm. Hadongkwan was also awarded with appearance in the variety television show Photo courtesy of Korea Tourism Organization the Bib Gourmand designation by Michelin Guide for Hadongkwan gomtang Photo courtesy “The Demand of Luxurious Food.” The most serving a delicious meal at a reasonable price. of Korea Tourism Organization popular menu in this restaurant is grilled Hadongkwan’s gomtang is available in two differ- skin-on black pork. As its name implies, unlike the regular pork belly meat, skin-on pork ent versions: regular soup with only beef in it and the special soup, which includes intestines belly is cut along with the skin to create a chewy texture. that add a stronger savory taste. Gomtang is served with rice mixed into the soup along The original flavor of the meat can be tasted by lightly dipping the grilled pork belly with kimchi on the side. You can add more flavors into the soup by adding in the condiments in salt or jeotgal (salted seafood). Enjoy the grilled meat with the salad and side dishes provided such as diced spring onions, salt, and pepper to your preference. served to clear out any after taste. Another popular menu, kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew) is also an excellent partner with the skin-on pork belly. Q ADDRESS (MAIN BRANCH): 12, Myeongdong 9-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul Q OPERATING HOURS: 7 a.m. - 4 p.m. (Closed 1st & 3rd Sunday of every month) / Subject to early closure Q ADDRESS (MAIN BRANCH): 37-2, Myeongdong 8na-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul depending on ingredient availability Q OPERATING HOURS: 11:30 a.m. - 1 a.m. (next day) / Closed the day of Seollal (Lunar New Year’s Day) QPRICES: Regular gomtang 13,000 won / Special gomtang 15,000 won / Suyuk (boiled beef slices) (large and Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving Day) serving) 50,000 won QPRICES: Grilled skin-on black pork 15,000 won / Grilled black pork shoulder 15,000 won / Salt-grilled QWEBSITE: www.hadongkwan.com (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) black pork 13,000 won / Kimchi jjigae 7,000 won / Kimchi noodles 6,000 won

Chinese traditional hot pot in Korea! Special noodles from Japan! Hai Di Lao Inaniwa Yosuke Hai Di Lao is a hot pot restaurant franchise that has its main Inaniwa Yosuke, located near Seoul City Hall, is Korea’s branch in China. A plethora of ingredients such as meat, sea- branch of a restaurant named Sato Yosuke in Japan that has Enjoy hot pot according to been specializing in udon for the past 350 years. The restau- food, vegetables, tofu and more are dipped into a boiling broth your preference Photo courtesy arant also made its way to Michelin Guide’s list of Bib Gour- in this Chinese style shabu shabu cuisine. of Korea Tourism Organization Hai Di Lao implements modern technology into their order- mand and is one of the top three must-eat udon in Japan. The Seiro udon meal, shrimp ing system. As soon as you sit at a table, you will be given an iPad to place your order. You can udon featured at these restaurants are characterized by thin, cream croquette & udon choose the soup base, meat, vegetables and any other ingredients you wish to add to your hot flat noodles that have a chewy texture. Their signature menus are seiro udon and hot soup udon. sauce for sale pot. The total price of the hot pot depends on the ingredients you choose. Photo courtesy of Korea There are four types of soup base to choose from – spicy mala soup with a kick of Chinese Seiro udon is served cold with two different sauces to dip your noodles in: the tsuyu sauce and the sesame miso sauce. Tourism Organization spice, mushroom soup, tomato soup, and the meaty samseontang soup broth. Once you have Each sauce has its own unique flavor that will stimulate your decided on your preferred soup base, continue your order by choosing your ingredients from tastebuds. The recommended side menu to go along with the noodles is shrimp cream cro- beef, pork, lamb, seafood, dumplings, vegetables, mushrooms, tofu, noodles, and much more. quette, a delicious combination of smooth cream and shrimp filling covered with a crispy You’ll be surprised at Hai Di Lao’s customer service as the staff’s assistance is as impres- crust. The restaurant also sells Inaniwa udon noodles and their special sauces separately sive as their meals. Not only are Chinese-speaking staff always readily available to care for for Inaniwa udon at home or to make for an excellent gift. the needs of the large number of Chinese tourists, but they also offer shoe cleaning and nail art services for free! Q ADDRESS: 6, Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul Q OPERATING HOURS: Lunch 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. (last order 1:40 p.m.), Dinner 5 p.m.-11 p.m. (last order Q ADDRESS: 78, Namdaemun-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul 9:50 p.m.) / Closed Sundays Q OPERATING HOURS: Open 24 hours / Open all year round (subject to change) QPRICES: - Lunch: Seiro soy sauce & sesame miso tsuyu udon 9,000 won / Wagyu udon 15,000 won / QPRICES: - Soup base (mala, mushroom, tomato, and samseon) 9,000 won each Shrimp cream croquette 8,000 won - Meat (pork, beef, lamb) available from 11,000 won - Dinner: Seiro soy sauce & sesame miso tsuyu udon 15,000 won / Wagyu udon 18,000 won / Shrimp - Mixed dumplings 12,000 won / Mixed vegetables 10,000 won / Mixed mushrooms 10,000 won cream croquette 8,000 won - Self-serve sauce bar 3,000 won per person (basic salad and a variety of sauce options available) QWEBSITE: www.food-biz.or.kr/inaniwa (Korean only)

Susung Lake

- National Dusan five-way crossing Police Agency Dulan-gil 18 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019

A Langalanga family from Malaita Island continue to make and use shell money. Seen here in Mbokana Village, in Honiara, they come to the capital to sell shell money necklaces and the Market day at Gizo is a major event, attended by 10-foot shell chains they use as barter and as a bride price. Photos by Steve Haggerty, Tribune News sellers, buyers and tourists, all arriving by water. Service From war to wonderland Solomon Islands still whispering secrets 75 years after WWII

BY ANNE Z. COOKE, Ellison Kyere, from the tourist office, 922 islands, speaking both Pijin and one homemade dugout canoe. TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE when my companion Steve and I met him of the country’s 75 different languages. We took the overnight Fiji Airways in Honiara. “For the battle sites and for Some are farmers; some work for the flight from Los Angeles to Fiji’s Nadi f it weren’t for the potholes, cav- scuba diving, under the water. It’s time government. Some wear grass skirts and airport, changed planes, then flew on ernous pits slowing us down on the to tell the story of island life on land.” use shell money for barter; others are to Henderson International Airport, in road to Honiara, in the Solomon A tall order, indeed. proud to count headhunters among their Honiara, the capital city. I’d brought Islands, I might have missed the I The islanders, mostly ancestors. A few own speed my phone so I took advantage of the air- sign, “Dolphin View Cottage.” But An- Melanesian, are scat- boats; most paddle port’s “tourist special,” a SIM card good drew, our guide, knew the road by heart. to market in a for 75 minutes, for just U.S. $1.30. And “That’s Guyas Tohabellana,” he said, tered over 347 of the country’s “mola,” a we booked a guide for the next day’s city waving at a stocky, dark-skinned man in tour. rumpled shorts, a faded T-shirt and flip We were still jetlagged the next flops. “He works here in Guadalcanal. morning when Andrew pulled up in a C’mon, let’s say hello.” Guam shiny black SUV. “All our cars are Japa- Beyond the bungalow, Guyas’ two nese and they’re all second-hand,” he teenagers lounged on a picnic table, apologized. “Never get new ones. And playing with their pet cockatoo. Behind the Japanese are building an overpass them, the beach sloped down to Iron Bot- and paving the street and it’s taking tom Sound, the World War II graveyard omon Islands forever,” he added as we inched along where 50-odd American and Japanese Sol past grimy storefronts and vegetable ships lie at rest. Across the water, Savo stands overflowing with greens, to- Island shimmered on the horizon. matoes and squash. For a few minutes, the two men “That one, where everybody chatted, speaking Pijin so quietly I shops, is owned by a Chinese com- couldn’t make out the words. Then pany,” he said, nodding at a big-box Guyas turned to me and we shook department store, the kind we’ve hands. seen in other third-world countries, “You’re from America!” he said, there to pave the way to building and switching to English and lighting up. mining contracts. “Do you like it here? Have you been to I looked for something I could Gizo and seen the beautiful coral reefs? brag on -- an American-built hospital Yes, my grandfather was a coast watch- or a college -- but we’d already turned er during World War II, a spy you’d say, away, heading to the Memorial Garden reporting Japanese movements to the cemetery, the American War Memorial Americans. He watched the battle of and Bonegi Beach, famous for wreck Savo Island from right here.” dives. “That’s Bloody Ridge,” Andrew A name and a handshake are de ri- said, parking the car on a grassy hump gueur in the Solomons, deep in the South of land. Pacific. Being American counts, too, es- Standing there, imagining the chaos pecially here, where 5,800 Americans of battle, it felt unreal to be gazing out were killed or injured fighting the invad- over sleepy fields while at my feet, still ing Japanese. visible, were the foxholes where 40 “We’re known for two things,” said U.S. Marines died. JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 19

Fatboys Resort, built over deep water to accommodate boats and to protect coral near the shore, encourages guests to relax, sample the scuba, snorkeling, ﬁshing, and village walks.

The trip - now nicknamed said, smiling, showing me how he folded “Solomons 101” – began in ear- the nut and leaf togetherther withwith a ppinchinch nest when we flew north to airfields at of slaked lime (ash fromrom burnedburned clamclam Gizo, on Ghizo Island, and Munda, on shells). “One or two of thesethese and I want to New Georgia, both in the Western Prov- get up and work all day.”y.” ince, the gateway to equatorial rain for- Flying on to Munda,a, on our next leg,leg, ests, volcanic mountains, blue lagoons we checked into the Agnesgnes Gateway Ho-Ho- and sandy beaches. tel, on the waterfront, a spartanpartan set of Met by a skiff and driver, we were rooms and cottages advertiseddvertised in off, speeding over a shimmering blue la- scuba magazines. Signingning up goon, to Fat Boys Resort, an all-inclusive, for a tour to Skull Island,sland, palm-thatched lodge built over deep wa- we met boat captain BBillyilly ter, with five bamboo-walled guest bun- Kere, 30-ish and friendly,dly, galows perched on the shore. Our base and a “descendant of camp for the next few days, the lodge the Roviana headhunt-nt- was a short boat ride to Kennedy Island, er clan,” as he told us.us. where we went ashore to see where Lt. Heading for deep water,ter, John Kennedy and his PT-109 crew hid pounding over incomingming after a Japanese vessel sank their ship. waves, we finally dockedcked And close enough to a string of shallow at tiny Skull Island, justjusst Market day in Gizo is a chance for vegetable stall sellers like Alice to reconnect with friends. reefs to spend a couple of hours snorkel- big enough to hold pileses ofo ing, before landing for a grilled-lobster rocks and rows of ancientncient picnic. skulls, victims of long ago battles.battles “The rising ocean is washing the is- “Don’t worry, the headhunters are land away,” said Sam, the boat captain, gone,” said Billy, chuckling. “It’s all about when I asked why one of the trees, its love nowadays. But not then,” he added. roots submerged in saltwater, seemed to “If you sinned? Your head came off.” be dying. “People used to think the trees Going on to Lubaria Island, the PT- had a disease,” he told me. “Now they boat base where Kennedy and his crew know it’s global warming.” It was party time the next day at Gizo’s were stationed during the war, we went Friday market. Families in dugout canoes ashore to visit the barracks and look at docked at the waterfront, buyers crowded the monument. Ata, the keeper, produced the aisles, coins changed hands, sellers a carved wood bust of the youthful Ken- hailed their friends and old ladies filled nedy, which he hides at night. “It’s been their shopping bags. Everyone smiled, stolen and recovered twice,” he said, asking where we were from and posing leading me to a group of rusty cannons. for photos. The real surprise was the modern bath- Ngali nuts -- the holy grail of snacks room. here in the islands -- were in season, so I Two days later, as our adventure stocked up with a half-dozen folded-leaf wound down and we boarded a 16-seat packages. Green taro leaves competed Twin Otter for the flight back to Honiara with slippery spinach (Malabar spinach), -- an aerial tour over islands, bays, coral purple bananas, carrots and betel nuts, reefs, rain forests, volcanos, waterfalls commonly chewed here, an affordable and mountains -- I suddenly realized how substitute for coffee or cigarettes. much we’d missed. The Solomon Islands, “What do they taste like?” I asked an spectacular, varied and pristine, with an older man with red-rimmed eyes (the annual visitor count of just 24,000, re- clue), who offered me a seat in the shade. mains one of the world’s last untamed “Do they make you feel relaxed?” I ven- destinations. The roads aren’t awfully Privacy, a one-to-one guest-to-staff ratio and seven luxurious tured to ask. good, especially in the country. But pot- bungalows are the reason British royals Will and Kate stayed at Tavanipupu Resort while touring the former British Empire’s “Oh, no, they give you energy!” he holes or no, we’ll be going back. colonies and protectorates. 20 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019

Hwacheon Sancheoneo various hands-on programs to tourists Ice Festival and participating residents of Gapyeong- HAPPENINGS eup. Various events will be available during the festival. TRANSPORTATION: OFF BASE Bus From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus to Gapyeong. * Bus Schedule: 06:35-22:05, runs 31 times a day From Jamsil Station (Seoul Subway DATE: Until Jan. 27 Line 2), Exit 9 LOCATION: Hwacheon-eup, Hwacheon-gun, Take Bus 7000 to Gapyeong. Gangwon-do F * Bus No. 7000 Schedule: runs 17 times a INTRODUCTION: S V L day (Inquiries: +82-2-3431-3994) Hwacheon Sancheoneo Ice Festival takes E A S Train place at Hwacheon county in Gangwon- LOCATION: Areas of Doridol VillageTITaebaeksan Mountain Snow Festival Gapyeong Station do with plenty of snow and ice, perfect INTRODUCTION: presents large-scaled snow sculptures in * ITX Train Schedule: 06:00-22:00, runs for a winter getaway. Since 2003, the Baegungyegok Valley Dongjanggun the national park, Jungang-ro, Hwangji 20 times a day festival has been visited by a million Festival in Pocheon offers various Pond and other downtown areas. Also, Subway people, making this festival more joyful. hands-on programs for families. It is various programs like Taebaeksan From Sangbong Station (Seoul Subway Varied festival programs include ice- located along the highway between Mountain Snowflake Hiking Competition, Line 7 or Jungang Line), fishing, ice sledding, bobsled, and other Sejong and Pocheon, making this festival Igloo Café, ice fountain, snow sliding, Transfer to Gyeongchun Line and get off things to see and participate in. easily accessible. In addition, Pocheon starlight festival, and more are planned at Gapyeong Station. [Reference for facility safe use] is famous for I-dong galbi and I-dong for a fun and fantastic festival. It is a 10min-walk from Gapyeong - Safety devices prepared makgeolli, as well as Il-dong Oncheon TRANSPORTATION: Bus Terminal, and a 15min-walk from - Medical Center in operation District, Sanjeong Lake, and Pocheon Art Bus Gapyeong Station. - 119 Safety Center is located nearby. Valley. From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an * Note: Times and schedules for public TRANSPORTATION: TRANSPORTATION: intercity bus to Taebaek. transportations are subject to change, Bus Bus From Taebaek Bus Terminal, take a please check to confirm before visiting. From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take bus bound for Danggol and get off at HOMEPAGE: www.jarasumfestival.co.kr intercity bus to Hwacheon. an express bus bound for Baegun-dong. Taebaeksan Provincial Park. (Korean only) Hwacheon Stream and the festival (Travel time: approx. 1 hour 30 minutes) * Hwangji Pond is a 10-min walk from grounds are about 10-min walk from the HOMEPAGE: www.dongjangkun.co.kr the Taebaek Bus Terminal. Chilgapsan Ice Fountain Festival bus terminal. (Korean only) HOMEPAGE: festival.taebaek.go.kr (Korean HOMEPAGE: www.narafestival.com only) (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) Animal & Heart Village Light Festival at Ansan Starlight Seoul Photo Festival Pyeongchang Trout Festival Village Photo Land

DATE: Until Feb. 17 LOCATION: Area of Alps Village DATE: Until Feb. 10 Festival Ground in Cheongyang-gun, LOCATION: Buk Seoul Museum of Art Chungcheongnam-do DATE: Until Jan. 27 DATE: Until Jan. 31 INTRODUCTION: INTRODUCTION: LOCATION: Areas of Odaecheon Stream LOCATION: Starlight Village Photo Land Seoul Photo Festival is held with the Chilgapsan Ice Fountain Festival features INTRODUCTION: INTRODUCTION: participation of citizens of Seoul and a large-scale ice fountain creating an The Pyeongchang Trout Festival takes Starlight Village Photo Land provides Seoul Museum of Art. The festival Alps Castle where fairy tale characters place during winter in the town of a beautiful and romantic light festival consists of series of workshops and are living together. The ice fountain Jinbu-myeon in Pyeongchang-gun all year round in the theme of Annimal exhibitions held at Buk Seoul Museum and sculptures create a splendid district. Visitors to the festival can enjoy & Heart Villages. The Animal Village of Art, Changdong Photo Art Gallery ambience during the nighttime opening. a variety of programs including ice and is decorated with displays of over 200 area, and SeMA storage facility. The This festival serves to create valuable lure fishing for trout, snow programs, animals from owls, cranes and swans workshops are aimed to evaluate and memories for children and a romantic ice programs, folk programs, and more. to elephants, giraffes, lions, pandas and communicate with local photo art winter dating spot for couples alike. There will also be traditional folk games more. Set off on a wild safari adventure galleries as well as to explore the current Located 5 minutes away, a suspension including sledding and top spinning, and with your family or loved ones to create state of the changing environment and bridge over Cheonchangho Lake is visitors can try out sports such as riding special memories. In Heart Village, society and its effect on photography. famous as a filming location of the 4-wheel ATVs, snow rafting, sleigh trains. lovebirds will enjoy the romantic TRANSPORTATION: popular variety program “Two Days and Any trout caught from ice fishing and atmosphere decorated with hundreds Subway] One Night.” lure fishing can be prepared right away of hearts. Photo themes include a lovely City Hall Station (Seoul Subway Line 1, TRANSPORTATION: at a nearby restaurant. wedding and a propose zone. 2) Express/Intercity Bus Trout farming first started in TRANSPORTATION: Euljiro 1(il)-ga Station (Seoul Subway From Central City Terminal, take an Pyeongchang due to its cold, clear Bus Line 2) express bus bound for Jeongsan Bus waters. Trout offers plenty of nutrition Jungang Station (Seoul Subway Line 4), Gwanghwamun Station (Seoul Subway Terminal. and offers great taste and texture when Exit 1. Line 5) Bus prepared raw. Take Bus No. 5601 and get off at Ansan Bus From Jeongsan Bus Terminal, transfer TRANSPORTATION: Cheongmundang Entrance Bus Stop. Get off at City Hall Station Bus Stop. to a local bus bound for Cheongyang- Bus The village is across the street approx. - Green Bus: 1711, 7016, 7022 Jeongsan and get off at Cheonjang-ri Bus From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an 200m back. - Blue Bus: 103, 150, 401, 402, 604 Stop (3 bus stops). intercity bus to Jinbu. HOMEPAGE: www.star1723.co.kr (Korean - Village Bus: Jongno 09, Jongno 11 Walk along the road in the same direction (Intervals: approx. 30-40min) only) HOMEPAGE: sema.seoul.go.kr (Korean only) of the bus toward Cheonjangho Lake for Odaecheon Stream is a 7-min walk from 830m. the Jinbu Bus Terminal. Taebaeksan Mountain Jaraseom Singsing Winter Festival HOMEPAGE: www.alpsvill.com (Korean HOMEPAGE: festival700.or.kr (Korean only) Snow Festival only) Baegungyegok Valley %JGQPIR[GQPI5PQYƃCMG Dongjangkun Festival Festival

DATE: Until Feb. 17 DATE: Until Feb. 3 LOCATION: Gapyeongcheon Stream area in LOCATION: Taebaeksan National Park, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do Hwangji Pond INTRODUCTION: DATE: Until Jan. 27 INTRODUCTION: Jaraseom Singsing Winter Festival offers DATE: Until Feb. 24 JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 21

LOCATION: Cheongpyeong Recreation Area the festival is about 200 m ahead. - From Sangbong Bus Terminal or Dong From Cheongpyeong Terminal, take a for Cheongpyeong Snowflake Festival Seoul Bus Terminal take a bus bound local bus bound for Goseong-ri. INTRODUCTION: Byeokchoji Botanical Garden for Cheongpyeong Bus Terminal. HOMEPAGE: www.pfcamp.com (Korean, Cheongpyeong Snowflake Festival located Lighting Festival Or, English, Chinese) in Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do includes - Take bus No. 1330 at Cheongnyangni fun activities such as catching trout with Transfer Center (in front of Lotte Korea Grand Sale bare hands, ice fishing, riding on tradition Department Store). sleds and many other hands-on activities. - Get off at the Cheongpyeong Bus DATE: Until Feb. 28 Visitors who had paid admission to the Terminal. LOCATION: Seoul Metropolitan Areas and fishing reservoir are also invited to watch - From Cheonpyeong Terminal, take a major regions nationwide the free circus performance offered. bus bound for The Garden of Morning INTRODUCTION: TRANSPORTATION: Calm. Korea Grand Sale is an integrated Subway Subway festival that promotes culture, Cheongpyeong Station (Gyeongui- - Cheongpyeong Station (Gyeonchun tourism and shopping to international Jungang Line), Exit 1. DATE: Until March 3 Line), Exit 1. visitors. Shopping, accommodations, The festival venue is about 5-min walking LOCATION: The Botanical Garden BCJ - Go left until you reach the 3-way transportation, entertainment, beauty distance away from the station. (Byeokchoji) intersection and turn right. and health, food and other various Bus INTRODUCTION: - Continue straight toward the participating companies will be offering From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an Byeokchoji Botanical Garden features Cheongpyeong Catholic Church. lots of benefits and discounts to all intercity bus bound for Cheongpyeong. Paju’s sole lighting festival close to - Pass by Cheongpyeong Elementary international tourists visiting Korea The festival venue is about 7-min walking nature. The festival is held every year School, turn left, and you will see the during this period. distance from Cheongpyeong Bus from mid-November to early-March. Cheonpyeong Bus Terminal. In particular, many events will be held Terminal. Visitors can enjoy this festival in the - From the terminal, take a bus bound for and convenient services such as free HOMEPAGE: www.cpfestival.net (Korean venue which is a famous filming spot The Garden of Morning Calm. Wi-Fi, language interpretation service, only) for more than 100 dramas, movies, - Alternatively, take the Gapyeong City information center and others will be advertisments, and music videos Tour Bus. available. Daegwallyeong Snow Festival annually. HOMEPAGE: morningcalm2.cafe24.com HOMEPAGE: www.koreagrandsale.co.kr TRANSPORTATION: (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) (Korean, English, Chinese, Japanese) Taxi Approx. 20 min from Paju Station Little Prince Lighting Festival +PLG+EGƂUJ(GUVKXCN (Gyeongui-Jungang Line) of Petite France HOMEPAGE: www.bcj.co.kr (Korean only)

Lighting Festival at The Garden of Morning Calm

DATE: Until Feb. 27 LOCATION: Hoenggye-ri Songcheon area INTRODUCTION: The Daegwallyeong Snow Festival is held DATE: Jan. 26 – Feb. 3 in the Hoenggye-ri area, which is located DATE: Until Feb. 28 LOCATION: Bingeoho Lake, Nam-myeon in Daegwanryeong-myeon, Pyeongchang- LOCATION: Petite France INTRODUCTION: gun, Gangwon-do. The festival will INTRODUCTION: Inje Icefish Festival has developed thanks be full of events for visitors to enjoy. Little Prince Lighting Festival of Petite to a lot of tourists’ participation and their Daegwallyeong Snow Festival first began DATE: Until March 24 France is held throughout the Petite interest since 1997. It tries to offer varied in 1993 and thanks to its increasing LOCATION: Main gardens France Park with beautiful lighting programs following trends. Visitors can popularity each year, the festival was INTRODUCTION: landscapes at nighttime. Pretty buildings enjoy icefish fishing at the festival venue. selected as one of the top twelve cultural Held at the Garden of Morning Calm, and night streets as well as Christmas TRANSPORTATION: festivals in Korea in the year 2000. The the Lighting Festival is the biggest trees are decorated with sparkling lights Bus festival’s venue, Daegwallyeong, is often festival of lights in Korea, covering 100 like a fairy tale. Adding a more romantic From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an referred to as the Alps of Korea due to thousand pyeong illuminated by 30,000 mood to winter nights, various event intercity bus to Inje Bus Terminal. its 700 m high valley that receives heavy lights. The gleaming lights add a festive like orgel performance & explanation, From Inje Terminal, take a taxi or a snowfall every winter. glow to the garden during the winter marionette performance, puppet shuttle bus to the festival venue. (travel TRANSPORTATION: season. The main gardens are Hakyung performance, magic performance, plaster time: approx. 10min) Bus Garden, Hometown House Garden, art experience, and wish tree event will HOMEPAGE: www.injefestival.co.kr (Korean From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an Bonsai Garden, Moonlight Garden, Sky be available for visitors to enjoy the only) intercity bus to Heonggye. Path and Garden of Eden, with colorful festival throughout Petite France. - Exit to the right out of Heonggye Bus lights adorning the trees. In the event of TRANSPORTATION: NOTE: Festival dates and info subject to Terminal. inclement weather, lights may be turned Express/Intercity Bus change. - Walk along Daegwallyeong-ro Street off for safety. Take a bus from Dong Seoul Bus COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM until you reach Heonggye Rotary. TRANSPORTATION: Terminal or Sangbong Bus Terminal to ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS - Turn right onto Jangseon-gil Road and Bus Cheongpyeong. RESERVED www.visitkorea.or.kr 22 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 Cs COR Yong Jun-hyung COMI NER Seoul, Feb. 1, 8 p.m., Feb. 2, 6 p.m., Olympic Park Concerts Olympic Hall, 99,000-110,000 won. Kim Hyun Joong Music Festivals Seoul, Feb. 9 & 10, 6 p.m., Blue Square Imarket 2019 RESFFECT Hall, Daegu, Feb. 16, 6 p.m., Chunma Arts Center Seoul, Feb. 2, 5 p.m., Blue Square Imarket Hall, Grand Hall, Busan, Feb. 23, 6 p.m., Busan KBS 66,000-77,000-88,000 won. Hall, 121,000 won.

Concerts Bohemian ‘Rhapsody Queen’ Concert in Korea K.Will & Freddie Mercury’s Undisclosed nuary Ja Seongnam, Jan. 26 & 27, 6 p.m., Photos Exhibition Seongnam Arts Center, Opera Busan, Feb. 16, 3 & 7 p.m., BEXCO Auditorium, House; Gwangju, Feb. 9, 6 p.m., 60,000-80,000-100,000-120,000 won. 1 Kimdaejung Convention Center - Multi-Purpose Auditorium, 88,000- Urban Music Concert #6 featuring Standing 99,000-121,000-132,000 won. Egg, The Ade 10cm Seoul, Feb. 16, 6 p.m., COEX Auditorium, 70,000 Busan, Jan. 26, 6 p.m., Sohyang Theater won. Shinhancard Hall, 99,000 won. Urban Music Concert #6 featuring Yang Da-il, Wanna One 1415 Seoul, Jan. 26 & 27, 5 p.m., Gocheok Sky Dome, Seoul, Feb. 17, 4 p.m., COEX Auditorium, 70,000 108,000-119,000 won. won.

Park Bo Gum Maroon5 Seoul, Jan. 26, 4 p.m., Korea University Hwajung Seoul, Feb. 27, 8 p.m., Gocheok Sky Dome, 77,000- Gymnasium, 44,000 won. 99,000-121,000-132,000-143,000 won. DO YOU HAVE A STORY TO SHARE? Kim Dong Han Josh Groban Seoul, Jan. 26, 6 p.m., Jan. 27, 5 p.m, Sang Myung Seoul, Feb. 27, 8 p.m., Jamsil Indoor Stadium, University, Sang Myung Art 132,000-165,000-220,000 won. IF SO, LOG ON TO bruar aarrcchh e y Center, Main Theater, 99,000 won. M F M Thomas Quasthoff Blue Room Jazz Quartet Seoul, Mar. 17, 8 p.m., LG Arts GUAM.STRIPES.COM 2 Seoul, Feb. 8, 8 p.m., JCC Concert 3 Center, 40,000-60,000-80,000- Hall, 50,000 won. 100,000 won.

For more information, visit Interpark’s website: www.globalinterpark.com/main/categoryList?dispNo=01003&prdTp=002

Stripes Korea is A Stars and Stripes Community to remote and isolated locations where overseas DOD Publication. This newspaper is authorized for publication personnel are located. The appearance of advertising in by the Department of Defense for members of the this publication, including inserts or supplements, does military services overseas. However, the contents not constitute endorsement of those products by the of Stripes Korea are unofficial, and are not to be Department of Defense or Stars and Stripes. Products considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, the or services advertised in this publication shall be made U.S. government, including the Department of Defense available for purchase, use, or patronage without regard or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, marital Stripes Korea may be distributed through official status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or any channels and use appropriated funds for distribution other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. JANUARY 24 − FEBRUARY 6, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 23 Stripes Sports Trivia Soccer, football - whatever you call it - the game is massively popular around the world. There are countless leagues across the globe, but right at the top of them all is the English Premier League. With 13 overall titles, including a pair of three-peats, which club stands above all others in the EPL?

Answer United Manchester

Crossword by Margie E. Burke

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• Wounded veteran shares love of ﬁtness • Nonproﬁt saddles up for veterans • Yoga instructors tailor teachings for troops • DOD promotes better understanding of TBIs

8-PAGE PULLOUT 2 STRIPES KOREA HealthyKOREA Living Guide JANUARY, 2019 Wounded veteran ﬁnds new

Max D. Lederer Jr. A new calling mission as a fitness teacher Publisher Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Commander BY PAM KRAGEN, to open this year, said Tianna In high school, he enlisted in aggravated his back problems, Joshua M Lashbrook THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE Strateman, vice president of the Marines on delayed-entry which led to more surgeries. Chief of Staff education for Club Pilates. status and spent most weekends On May 30, 2007, Smith had Michael Davidson SAN DIEGO Revenue Director “Calvin is definitely a rock drilling with other recruits be- just finished processing his fi- ver a 10-year period be- star,” Strateman said. “I can’t fore heading to boot camp after nal discharge papers at Camp Chris Verigan ginning in 2003, Marine Engagement Director veteran Calvin Smith say enough about him and ev- his senior year in 2000. As an Pendleton and was riding home Marie Woods O erything he’s accomplished. infantryman with the 3rd Bat- on his motorcycle on Interstate Publishing and Media Design Director endured 21 surgeries and a leg talion, 5th Marines, he was sta- 5 near the Las Pulgas Road Chris Carlson amputation caused by war inju- We’re excited about his teacher Publishing and Media Design Manager ries he suffered in Iraq, a mo- training and becoming an in- tioned at several international when he was nearly killed in a Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. torcycle accident and a brain structor for both regular mem- bases. Then, after the terrorist three-vehicle crash. Smith col- Korea Area Manager tumor. bers and others in the military. attacks on 9/11, he prepared for lided with a speeding car, which Jinsun Song Operations Manager But looking back on that dev- Kentaro Shimura astating decade, the 37-year-old Production Manager Vista resident said he wouldn’t Rie Miyoshi change a thing. Engagement Manager On his road to recovery, he Ian Waddick Denisse Rauda fell in love with his speech ther- Publishing and Media Design Editors apist and she’s now his wife. He The only person holding you Publishing and Media Design Writers ChiHon Kim also discovered Pilates, which Shoji Kudaka has so reshaped his mental and Takahiro Takiguchi physical health that he’s now back is yourself.” Layout Designers Ayako Kamio becoming an instructor. His new Yukiyo Oda mission in life is to share the – Calvin Smith Yuko Okazaki health benefits of the strength- “ Kayoko Shimoda Multimedia Consultants training exercise program with Max Genao Doug Johnson other veterans who’ve experi- Jason Lee Hans Simpson He’s our first and we hope he war. pushed his bike into the next Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn enced traumatic injuries. Robert Zuckerman “My message is that just won’t be our last. He’s a trail- On his first seven-month de- lane where he was hit by a sec- Graphic Designers because you’re wounded, that blazer.” ployment to Iraq in 2003, he ond car. Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji doesn’t mean you can’t do some- Smith grew up in Mesa, Ariz., suffered a brain injury and Smith has no memory of the Sales Support thing,” he said. “The only per- where he said he had a Marine five herniated discs in his up- accident, which shattered his Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro son holding you back is your- Corps poster tacked up on his per spine when the Humvee he right wrist, damaged the mus- Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato self.” bedroom wall by the time he was riding in struck a hole in cles in his right arm, caused Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha Smith is the first veteran was in second grade. Serving the road caused by a tank. He a traumatic brain injury and For feedback and inquiries, amputee in training to become in the military was the family returned to Camp Pendleton broke most of the bones below contact [email protected] an instructor for Club Pilates, business. His grandfather spent for spine fusion surgery and a the knee in his left leg. To place an ad, call DSN 721-7145 which has 400 gyms nation- 33 years in the Navy and his fa- period of recuperation. He re- As a result of the brain in- stripeskorea.com/contact wide and another 250 scheduled ther did three tours in Vietnam. turned to Iraq in 2006, where he jury, Smith struggled with

How many people know what their DNA consists of? You can find out the secret of your DNA with MyGenomeBox’s various applications. JANUARY, 2019 HealthKOREAy Living Guide STRIPES KOREA 3 Yoga instructors tailor teachings for military, veterans BY MIKE KLINGAMAN, fight-or-flight mode; they’re not in a good THE BALTIMORE SUN place. Anyone being deployed has a risk of being exploded; it’s horrible stress.” FORT MEADE, Md Her goal: Get each warrior’s body to n 2009, Lt. Jen Vaughn was at war — take a deep breath. with herself. Or so it seemed to the There are dangers in learning yoga, Ithen-32-year-old Naval officer. Maliner says, most involving careless in- “I was going through some pretty structors. tough stuff — a divorce and a series of “I took a class, off-base, where we deaths in the family, including a suicide,” were asked to do a lotus pose (sitting says Vaughn, of Laurel. “The state of the crosslegged). It’s a risky position and I world, and all that was going on, made dislocated my knee,” she says. “Yoga is things worse. I didn’t deal with the stress not a magic bullet; it takes discipline and well; I needed an escape.” daily practice under the tutelage of teach- She tried yoga. That first class, she ers like Lucy, who minimizes the risks.” burst out crying. The sailor who had pa- For two years, Air Force Staff Sgt. trolled the Mediterranean during the Joe Jamison has trained with Lomax. A Kosovo Campaign, and chased pirates off cyberwarfare planner at Fort Meade, he the African Coast, lay on her mat, bawl- sought a remedy for the ills of sitting at ing. In a good way. a desk for hours on end in a hush-hush, “Yoga calmed my mind and showed high-stress job. that it’s OK to take 10 minutes to ‘connect In this Nov. 1, 2018 photo, Jen Vaughnl, foreground, Joe Jamison, currently in active duty with the Air Force, and others participate with a certified Warriors At Ease teacher. Photo by Karl Merton Ferron “I quickly learned the problems I had to my breath,’ “ Vaughn says. “It saved with my body’s alignment, balance and my life.” to learn how to breathe and to go internal, frame that should melt alongside a strap- posture — and it echoed out to other parts Vaughn is among a number of warriors so we can better cope with our daily de- ping Marine. Not so. On the mat, she’s a of my general well being,” said Jamison, to embrace yoga as a therapeutic tool to mands — and recover.” poster child for a Twister game. 26. treat pain and stress. Moreover, Uncle Each Thursday, Lucy Lomax arrives “I’m short and squatty, which is good “Yoga helps me to focus in a more tar- Sam has their backs. A 2017 study by the at Fort Meade where, for 90 minutes, the for yoga,” Lomax says. geted way and to tackle my daily chal- Rand Corporation reported that four out Elkridge resident teaches yoga to a cadre A retired financial policy analyst with lenges better. You feel different when of five military health care facilities in the of servicemen and women. Standing and the federal government, she is a certified you’re able to sit and breathe properly.” U.S. now offer non-conventional on-site Now retired after 22 years in the Navy, lying on latex mats, they stretch and bend instructor for Warriors At Ease, a non- treatments, including yoga. Vaughn attends Lomax’ class while earn- in ways that would make Gumby cringe, profit that educates those who want to At Fort Meade, the central Maryland ing her Warriors At Ease teaching certifi- morphing into rhythmic postures called teach yoga to the military. In November, U.S. Army base home to 14,500 military cate. The Baby Cobra, The Puppy and The she trained 60 members of the 55th Signal personnel, “yoga is very well respected “Yoga has been a joy for me, and I want Gate. Company, a combat camera unit, prior to and often advocated,” says Col. Beverly to give back,” she says. Recovering from their deployment. Maliner, chief of preventive medicine One pose recalls Michael Phelps, back surgery in October for a service-re- services. “It’s pretty well documented poised for takeoff; another evokes sprint- “Two of the guys came in, thinking lated injury, Vaughn spurns narcotics for that meditation helps people with pain of er Usain Bolt, crouched at the starting they were the bees’ knees. One was doing the pain. any kind, including PTSD (post-traumat- blocks. a head stand, to show off, when I arrived,” “Yoga has taught me you can breathe ic stress disorder), and yoga fits into that All the while, Lomax coaxes her charg- says Lomax. She ignored them and, for an through anything,” she says. rubric very well.” es in a soothing, hypnotic voice. hour, challenged the group “to get their Vaughn wants to pass on that prescrip- According to the U.S. Department of “Let go of the outside world,” she says. energy out.” tion. Veterans Affairs, PTSD affects between “Bring your awareness to yourself, how it Afterward, the soldiers conceded the “It’s important to take care of the en- 10 and 20 percent of veterans deployed in feels to be in your body and to connect to session was tough. tire war-fighting machine, which is what recent wars. the earth.” The job is a passion for Lomax, who every soldier and sailor is. You’ve got to Yoga also benefits non-combatants who Lomax began teaching the class in works gratis. take care of the whole package,” she says. live in a hurry-up world, said Maliner, 2015 and has taught about 400 warriors to “These men and women work so hard, “I mean, you can’t just put gasoline in a who ascribes to the practice herself. date, including some from Howard Coun- under such pressure, and they never car; there are other things you need to do “Military life is a busy, high-intensity ty, home to nearly one-quarter of Fort speak of anything but work,” she says. to maintain its overall performance. Like environment where the focus is always Meade’s employees. At 69, she executes “They go overseas to Afghanistan and changing the oil. And kicking the tires ev- external,” she says. “Yoga gives us tools all of the poses herself on a 4-foot-10 come back but never talk about that ery once in awhile.”

short-term memory loss and After transitioning out of the is a strength-and balance-train- Reinhold-Smith, who now and a natural teacher, so being word finding. Five months after service, Smith spent 18 months ing fitness program that uses works as a speech therapy man- here makes him so much more the accident, he started therapy at Palomar College, studying floor exercises, equipment and ager for Kaiser Health, said happy.” at the Brain Injury Day Treat- to become a transition liaison a table-like gym apparatus to do she’s been amazed by her hus- Smith said he’d like to bring ment Clinic at Scripps Memo- for discharged veterans. But core-building exercises. band’s transformation. He no more men into the fitness pro- rial Hospital Encinitas. because of his brain injury, he Strateman said Pilates is longer walks with difficulty, no gram, which is primarily prac- That’s where he met his fu- couldn’t retain the course mate- ideal for people like Smith with longer suffers muscle spasms ticed locally by women. Rein- ture wife, Kristina Reinhold- rial despite long hours of study- disabilities or physical limita- and his personality has been hold-Smith said she thinks her Smith. After he graduated from ing and he failed most of his tions because the regimen can transformed. husband’s recovery through the the program, they started dat- classes. Then, during a check- be modified for each individual “He was really depressed program might be an incentive ing in 2009. They married in up in early 2017, doctors dis- user. “The goal is to make it the before the brain tumor was re- for other veterans struggling December 2010 and share a covered he had a brain tumor, best for one person, not a one moved and was increasingly with amputations and chronic combined five children from which they removed. size fits all.” isolated and trying to figure pain. their previous marriages. Smith was depressed, over- Smith began taking classes out his future,” she said, in an “I think he could become an Reinhold-Smith, 43, said it weight, out of shape and unsure at the San Marcos club every interview at Club Pilates in ambassador for people with in- was difficult seeing her husband what to do with the rest of his day, which helped him shed San Marcos on Friday. “Com- juries who are looking for some- struggle with his health. He suf- life. Then in April 2017 he and 45 pounds. And through inter- ing here gave him a purpose for thing,” she said. “He has a lot to fered chronic pain and muscle his wife decided to take a class acting with trainers and fel- his day. He’s a people person give back to people. ” spasms related to his spine and at Club Pilates in San Marcos. low students at the club, it also leg injuries and he battled post- Before they even finished their helped him come out of what he traumatic stress disorder and introductory class, he had de- calls his “bubble of isolation” at depression. cided to sign up for unlimited home. Although he underwent mul- visits. Over the past year, Smith has tiple surgeries to repair his leg, “I could feel my body being completed nearly 500 hours of he still spent most of his time challenged but not that jarring, classroom, fitness and assistant in a wheelchair or with a cane. squishing pain that you get teacher training. Once he fin- Finally, in 2013, he decided to with other workouts,” he said. ishes his teaching hours and an amputate the lower limb. His “I knew this was something I anatomy class next month, he’ll only regret is that he didn’t do could do without injuring my- be certified to teach classes at it sooner. Now he enjoys hiking self.” several North County clubs. outdoors with his children and Developed in the early 20th Eventually, he hopes to teach shopping trips to Costco, out- century by German fitness Pilates to Marines at Camp ings he couldn’t do before. trainer Joseph Pilates, Pilates Pendleton. 4 STRIPES KOREA HealthyKOREA Living Guide JANUARY, 2019

It’s the most fulﬁlling job I’ve ever “been a part of. I know we are changing a life every other weekend. ” - John Parker, War Horse’s development director

BY ROSE L. THAYER but rather a place for combat STARS AND STRIPES veterans to find their sense of Published: December 17, 2018 purpose in civilian life. The three-day retreats give atrick Benson’s four to six veterans at a time a deployment with break from life’s challenges and the 3rd Armored the space to meet with mentors Cavalry Regiment to help them with whatever is- to Fallujah and sues the veteran says they want Ramadi, Iraq, in to overcome. It could be em- 2003 impacted him ployment, alcohol or discover- in ways he didn’t ing confidence and stability. Punderstand until years later. It Yes, it’s centered on horses, was an exhausting year as an but the ultimate goal of the non- infantryman during the inva- profit is to help get veterans sion of Iraq, and upon returning jobs, use their education ben- home, the veteran of six years efits or get help with access to left the Army. the Department of Veterans Af- “One day, I was driving out of fairs. It’s to get them communi- Baghdad and the next thing you cating in their marriage or the know, I’m becoming a civilian community. It’s a journey to get and I didn’t know what the hell to the person they want to be. I was going to do,” said Benson, “The program itself is just 39. He returned home to Kan- amazing, and the horse is a sas City, Mo. and started his very small part of it,” said John own business as a clinician in Parker, War Horse’s develop- the horse industry. For the next ment director and resident pho- decade, he did well for himself, tographer. “The rest is about teaching basic horsemanship veterans helping veterans. and working with performance There’s no medication that can horses. Finding p do more than a buddy telling An “old-timer horseman” you, ‘Hey, I’m going through the and veteran complimented same thing.’ ” Nonprofit gives veterans a chance to Benson during a clinic one day Benson agreed. “Horses are and the two started sharing war the bridge and veterans are stories. The man said to him, their own best therapy,” he said. nonprofit. other weekend,” he said. Horses. As a helicopter scout W “You don’t realize it, but they’re Parker spent 20 years as a “It’s the most fulfilling job The program is free for vet- pilot with the 1st Cavalry Di- with fixing you.” photographer with the Navy I’ve ever been a part of. I know erans and operates with dona- vision, Llewellyn spent four lax, That conversation was the and found his home with the we are changing a life every tions, Benson said. Four years months in a combat zone be- chro first time Benson really talked into the program, more than 200 fore taking a direct hit with a “ about the war with anyone, veterans have visited the farm .51-caliber. He spent 15 months and describing to the stranger the War Horses for Veterans mentor Gary from all over the U.S. Benson in the hospital and was medi- does friends he lost and what he’d Llewellyn works with a combat veteran has seen veterans move across cally retired in 1970. they on how to perform a one-rein stop. done and seen. the country for new jobs, net- Llewellyn said he saw the im- star “I realized that what I was work and help other veterans pact that War Horses had in his rele doing with the horses gave me and start their own businesses. own life and continues to see it all o a focus that was more produc- He’s also witnessed them grow in others as he volunteers. To them tive than getting drunk and get- in their relation- be closer to the fath ting in fights. It gave me a pres- ships. EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: ranch, he moved quic ence,” Benson said. “I’d find Veterans are from Michigan your horses with the most problems allowed to come and volunteers ness and fix them. I realized it was back as many multiple times a com kind of a reflection in the mir- times as they week. Between caus ror of what was going on with would like for a weekend re- retreats he coordinates volun- wha me. treat, as long as they bring teers for ranch upkeep. “ “Over time I realized what I along a veteran who’s new to “Your smile comes back to that did for a living was saving my the program. All that’s asked of you — a genuine smile,” he We’v butt,” he said. attendees is to pay it forward to said of his transformation. “You that That personal discovery other veterans. start to feel as yourself, not as stre combined with a desire to Units can also host reunions you think you should feel. You foun reach out to other veterans led at the ranch and spend time walk taller. You put your shoul- and Benson, along with his mentors together again. Sometimes the ders back. You have an air of thin Andy and Patricia Brown, to veterans haven’t seen each oth- confidence about you. That’s E start the nonprofit War Horses er since they were in combat just an acceptance that happens wha for Veterans four years ago. together. when riding the horse that you the The ranch in Stillwell, Kan., is “It really is the final touches have taken several steps out wor a respite where veterans can of bringing you back to find- of your comfort zone and been conn come and experience a week- ing yourself again,” said Gary successful with them. Once you over end among the nonprofit’s eight Llewellyn, a 71-year-old Viet- feel that and lose that anxiety, sit b horses and network with other nam War Army veteran who the fear of doing something resu veterans and mentors. It’s not went through the program wrong, then you walk taller. que conventional equine therapy, and now volunteers with War You’re back.” W JANUARY, 2019 HealthKOREAy Living Guide STRIPES KOREA 5

Jason Klepac, Army veteran, and Linexa, Kansas police ofﬁcer, volunteering his time at War Horses for Veterans.

War Horses for Veterans co-founder and director Patrick Benson teaches some basic riding skills to a combat veteran during one of a weekend retreat at the nonproﬁt’s purpose ranch in Stillwell, Kansas. Photos by John Parker o work with horses – and themselves

When someone spends time into spouse retreats to help h a horse and begins to re- veterans’ partners better un- the two heart rates syn- derstand the issues they face onize, Llewellyn said. and how to better communicate It’s different between horse with each other. every individual, but it The next step will be pro- s happen,” he said. “When gramming for emergency y relax that allows them to service providers and law en- rt to open their mind up to forcement. Army veteran and ease the anxiety and give up volunteer Jason Klepac is help- of the things that are holding ing with the efforts. m down. It seems almost un- “Law enforcement and ﬁre homable that something that and EMS, it’s constantly a roll- ckly can allow you to release er coaster ride. You go from one r feelings of self-worthless- adrenaline rush to the other,” s, anxiety, fear to talk and said Klepac, a police ofﬁcer mmunicate with others be- in Lenexa, Kan. “Before long, se they won’t understand if you stay at that level, if you at you’re trying to say. stay on alert all the time, you That is assisted by the fact never relax and you never come t we are all combat veterans. down,” the 40-year-old said. “So ve been there, we’ve done for me it’s allowed me a differ- t and have (post-traumatic ent avenue to go out there and ess) and other issues and relax and clear my head, work nd out how to live with them with horses, and when the vet- to succeed. That is the big erans come in I can transfer all ng.” that to them.” Each veteran can decide He doesn’t know when or at he or she wants to do at how seeking mental health care ranch. They can go out and became such a bad thing, but rk with horses or ride them, Klepac said he wants to help nect with fellow veterans change that through mentoring r Midwestern barbecue, or others at War Horses. by the pool and work on their ume and practice interview stions. War Horses is also dipping SEE HORSES ON PAGE 7 6 STRIPES KOREA HealthyKOREA Living Guide JANUARY, 2019 JANUARY, 2019 HealthKOREAy Living Guide STRIPES KOREA 7

Patrick Benson, co-founder and director of War Horses for Veterans, explains the importance of relaxing and breathing when you ride, to a combat veteran during the nonproﬁt’s October program. Photo by John Parker HORSES:

Marine Corps Staff Sgt. Anthony Mannino performs Art Therapy as part of his Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI) treatment and Making a recovery. Photo by Marvin Lynchard DOD promoting better difference understanding, treatment CONTINUED FROM PAGE 5 with veterans as a reminder of their experience at the ranch “Me and my wife have to for those rough days they will of traumatic brain injury go to the doctor for a biomet- surely face in the future. A wife ric screening every year to get once told Parker she presents MILITARY HEALTH SYSTEM COMMUNICATIONS OFFICE appear in the blood and are elevated 12 hours the discount for insurance. We the photos to her husband when after a head injury occurs. all go to the doctor for routine he is struggling. raumatic brain injuries continue to be a “When these proteins are elevated, there may maintenance, just check-ups. “You can see on the Friday top focus in the Defense Health Agency. be blood in the brain,” said Kathy Helmick, We all go to the dentist to get that they get there, they still TAccording to the Defense and Veter- DVBIC deputy director. This could be an indi- our teeth checked. So why is have this shell around them, ans Brain Injury Center, or DVBIC, more than cation of a more serious brain injury, she said, going to see mental health (pro- this protective wall,” Parker 380,000 service members have been diagnosed and would require rapid intervention, such as fessionals) and getting some said. “They still have that look with a TBI since 2000. The majority of the in- neurosurgery to remove a blood clot. maintenance done — why is of a deer in headlights. cidents have occurred in noncombat events in- The Air Force opened its first Invisible that a bad thing?” he said. “Ev- “On Sunday all you see is cluding training accidents, falls, motor vehicle Wounds Center at Eglin Air Force Base, Flori- erybody always sees it as a neg- smiles. You see relationships collisions, and sports-related activities. da. The facility serves as a regional treatment ative response and that’s why that have formed between the TBIs are categorized as mild, moderate, se- center for TBI as well as associated pain condi- people shy away from it.” participants that are there, and vere, or penetrating. They occur when a blow or tions and psychological injuries. With a team of Just as with physical fitness, formed between us and them. jolt to the head disrupts 18 specialties under one maintaining the mental clarity Sunday pictures are totally dif- normal brain functioning. roof, the center combines of a weekend retreat relies on Mild TBIs or mTBI, also ferent,” Parker said. “You see conventional and com- the veteran to take action. For known as concussions, relaxation, that’s the big thing.” plementary therapies to Llewellyn, he said every day is are the most common TBI That’s a pretty good feeling provide treatment that’s a choice. among military members, to walk away with, which is why TBIs are categorized as individually tailored to “When I saw that happen DVBIC says. Full recov- veterans return to War Horses each patient as well as with myself and felt it, I made ery is usually expected holistic and integrated. to volunteer or mentor, Parker mild, moderate, severe, a decision that day. I can wake within days or weeks, but “The center is ready said. up every morning and decide to mTBIs can cause cogni- to treat retirees, Guard, “When you leave War Horses or penetrating. They go back to the way I was gonna tive and emotional issues, Reserve, and active duty for Veterans, you have a team go, or I was gonna keep this and such as temporary memo- members from our sis- behind you,” he said. move ahead. I decided to keep ry gaps, slowed thinking, occur when a blow or ter services who carry this and move ahead,” he said. For more information, visit irritability, and depres- the weight of invisible This is where Parker, the www.warhorsesforveterans.com. sion. jolt to the head disrupts wounds,” said Lt. Gen. photographer, sees his photos [email protected] Further, research has Dorothy Hogg, the Air come into play. He shares them Twitter: @Rose_Lori shown that repeated head normal brain Force surgeon general. trauma may increase the “Our goal is to elimi- risk of developing Al- functioning. nate barriers to care. We zheimer’s disease and want to treat our service Parkinson’s disease, and members with dignity also may lead to brain through every phase of degeneration known as their recovery.” chronic traumatic en- During last year’s cephalopathy. Military Health System Research Symposium, Here’s a look at some activities last year that a researcher at Indiana University was recog- were related to promoting better understanding nized for his work advancing the biological un- and treatment of TBI: derstanding of head impacts that don’t produce The U.S. Army Medical Research and Mate- clinical symptoms of mTBI. Keisuke Kawata, riel Command began limited user testing of a Ph.D., of the Department of Kinesiology, School blood test for brain trauma. The Army and the of Public Health, Indiana University, received Department of Defense funded the research the first-place award in the Young Investigator that led to the development of the test, called John Parker, development director, photographer and Navy veteran, talks with Competition for his study, “Association of In- a couple of combat veterans during a War Horses for Veterans summer group. a brain trauma indicator. The BTI identifies creased Serum S100B Levels with High School Photo by Jeffrey Klepac two brain-specific protein markers that rapidly Football Subconcussive Head Impacts.” 8 STRIPES KOREA HealthyKOREA Living Guide JANUARY, 2019