UW Conflict and Culture in Rovinj, Croatia– Summer 2020 IAP Program Handbook

UW Conflict and Culture in Rovinj, Croatia is offered by International Academic Programs (IAP) at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. This IAP Program Handbook supplements the IAP Study Abroad Handbook and provides you with the most up-to-date information and advice available at the time of printing. Changes may occur before your departure or while you are abroad.

Questions about your program abroad (housing options, facilities abroad, etc.) as well as questions relating to academics (course credit and equivalents, etc.) can be directed to International Academic Programs at UW-Madison.

Contact Information Program Leader Information Your primary contacts in Croatia will be UW-Madison Program Leaders Professor Emeritus Tomislav Longinovic (who goes by Toma) and Dijana Mitrovic. [email protected] [email protected]

Toma’s cell phone number in Croatia: +385-91-721-0691

UW-Madison Information International Academic Programs (IAP) University of Wisconsin-Madison 301 Red Gym, 716 Langdon Street Madison, WI 53706 Tel: 608-265-6329 Fax: 608-262-6998 Web: www.studyabroad.wisc.edu

Your IAP Study Abroad Advisor (SAA), Enrollment Specialist Advisor (ESA), and Financial Specialist are listed in the Contacts section of your MyStudyAbroad account.

Emergency Contact Information Toma and Dijana will be able to assist you in the case of any emergencies that might come up while you are abroad. IAP can also assist you. In order to contact IAP, call the main IAP number (608) 265-6329 between 7:45 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; after-hours or on weekends call the IAP emergency phone at (608) 516-9440.

Embassy Registration All program participants who are U.S. citizens must register at the U.S. Embassy before departure as this will help in case of a lost passport or other mishap. You can register online through the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP). If you are not a U.S. citizen, register at your home country’s embassy or consulate.

U.S. Embassy in Croatia Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2 10010 Zagreb, Croatia Telephone: 385-1-661-2200 Website: https://hr.usembassy.gov/

Program Addresses and Locations You will spend the most time at the following program locations. Housing will be arranged for you in Villa Barbara, and meals provided at Maslina. Your class will be held at the Center for Historical Research, though some days will take you out of the classroom into Rovinj and beyond.

Villa Barbara Michelea Fachinettia 3 Rovinj 52210, Croatia

Maslina Restaurant Stjepana Radica 29 Rovinj 52210, Croatia

Center for Historical Research - Rovinj (Centro di Ricerche Storiche di Rovigno) Trg Piazza Matteotti, 13 Rovinj 52210, Croatia

Program Dates Students arrive in Rovinj, Croatia: Sunday, May 17, 2020 Course begins: Monday, May 18, 2020 Course ends: Friday, June 12, 2020 Students depart from Rovinj, Croatia: Saturday, June 13, 2020

You’ll find more information about your arrival to the program below in Travel and Arrival. You will be required to check out of your lodgings no later than noon on June 13, though you are allowed to leave the program site any time after the end of class on June 12.

Preparation Before Leaving Besides reading the rest of your Croatia program handbook, please be sure to read the IAP Study Abroad Handbook. This handbook contains information essential to your success on an IAP study abroad program, as well as answers questions commonly asked on cultural, academic, and health issues.

Immigration Documents

2 Passport A passport is required to travel to Croatia. Apply immediately for a passport if you do not already have one. Passport information and application forms can be found on the U.S. State Department website. If you already have your passport, make sure it will be valid for at least 6 months beyond the length of your stay abroad.

Visa No visa is required for U.S. passport holders for stay up to 3 months. Students from other countries should check with the Croatian Embassy in the United States about whether a visa is required. International students can contact their Study Abroad Advisor at IAP for additional guidance if a visa is necessary.

At the present time, no vaccinations are required for entering or leaving Croatia; however, we strongly encourage you to make a travel clinic appointment with your doctor before leaving on the program. Visit the CDC website for the most recent information on vaccinations and health precautions that should be taken for study abroad in Croatia.

Handling Money Abroad The Croatian currency is the kuna (plural form is kune, pronounced ‘koo-neh’). For the latest currency exchange rates see http://www.oanda.com . Note that as Croatia receives many visitors from the Eurozone, it’s fairly common to see prices displayed in euro as well.

Banks in Rovinj are generally open Monday to Friday from 8:00AM to 1:30PM and 3.30PM to 7.30PM. There is a wide number and variety of ATM terminals available 24/7. ATMs are widely available throughout the country. Check the network symbols on the machine to see that they match the symbols on your card before you start. When using a bank debit card, you will generally receive better exchange rates and lower fees than if you take cash advances from your credit cards. Be sure to check with your ATM/debit card provider for any international transaction fees or transaction limits.

All major credit cards are recognized and accepted in most hotels, shops, and restaurants. Stickers in the front windows will advise you as to which cards are accepted.

See your IAP Study Abroad Handbook for more suggestions on handling money while abroad.

Tipping Hotels and restaurants generally include a 10-15% gratuity on the bill. Ushers in the cinema, theatres and taxi drivers also expect a 10% tip. For drinks at cafes, round the bill up to the nearest kuna amount.

Travel and Arrival Information Arrival Information You are responsible for making your own travel arrangements, which includes arranging flights that will allow for appropriate arrival time for the course start date. There are several airports which students can fly into: Trieste (Italy); Zadar, Rijeka, Pula, Zagreb (Croatia); or Ljubljana

3 (Slovenia). Trieste offers a balance between distance from Rovinj and number of flights available per day, though Pula is the closest option (and very small). Although you are welcome to fly to Croatia on your own, we encourage you to arrange flights with other students on the program and travel together.

We expect students to arrive on site no later than Sunday, May 17, which is the day before the start of the course. Prior to May 17, you will need to arrange your own accommodations if you choose to arrive early.

Trieste Arrival and Airport Transfer This is our suggested option. The transportation from Trieste to your residence in Rovinj can be handled by our travel agency, Uniline, for a fee of around 30 euro per person (1.5 hour bus ride). The final cost depends on how many students choose to take the group transfer. We will send more information about the optional group airport transfer later in the spring semester, and you will be required to commit to the transfer in late April. You will be able to pay the cost of the transfer ahead of time by credit card. This transfer is optional, and therefore separate from your program fee. The Uniline airport bus will take you directly to Villa Barbara.

Important! If you plan to use the Uniline group airport transfer, arrange your travel so you will be ready to leave the Trieste airport arrivals area by 5PM on Sunday, May 17. The Trieste Airport is very small. If you have arrived from an airport within the Schengen Area, you should not need to go through customs or immigration at Trieste again. Once you have your bag from the luggage carousel, it’s just a few dozen feet to the arrivals area. The Trieste airport does not have much in the way of shops or services, though there are a few options. We recommend arriving with sufficient time to collect your bags and meet up with the group, but suggest avoiding spending a long period there because of how small it is. Plan accordingly!

Other Transportation Options If you choose to arrive at a different time, or through a different airport, it will be your responsibility to make your way to Villa Barbara on your own. Notify Toma and Dijana as to when you expect to arrive so they can arrange access to your apartment unit.

If you plan to arrive through Trieste and make your own way to Rovinj, you will need to take a bus or taxi to central Trieste. Bus Route 51 leaves from right next to the arrivals area at Trieste Airport. You can buy a ticket from the machine in the arrivals area; then follow the walkway and signs to the bus waiting area. Take care to get on Route 51 to Trieste, via Monfalcone, and NOT in the direction of Udine (or you’ll be going away from Trieste). Route 51 will make many stops on the way to the Trieste Bus Station, but will end in downtown Trieste (Piazza della Libertà). You can catch an intercity bus to Rovinj, which leaves several times each day. It is possible to purchase tickets in advance online. Doing this on your own requires careful planning.

The transportation from Zagreb would be an intercity bus, length of 5-7 hours. You would need to find your way to the Zagreb Bus Station and purchase a ticket to Rovinj. If you choose to fly into any other city, you will usually need to reach the city’s central bus station in order to get an

4 intercity bus. Be sure to plan your route from start to finish, as much as you are able in advance, and check ticket prices.

Packing All manner of clothing is possible in Croatia. Rovinj is a summer tourist location, so you will see many people wearing shorts, t-shirts, and sleeveless tops. In general, you can dress casually from day to day. However, you are expected to dress in a respectable manner when visiting churches and monasteries. In order to enter a church, women are expected to wear skirts that fall below their knees and shirts that, at a minimum, cover their shoulders. Men should likewise wear pants and sleeved shirts. Do not enter a church barefoot. You may see tourists entering churches with far less clothing than is required, but this is considered extremely offensive.

Suggested items to pack: o darker clothes that do not get as dirty as quickly o comfortable walking shoes o slacks and jeans (past participants have suggested one pair of pants, with daily wear being shorts, skirts, and dresses given the summer weather) o shirts and blouses o underwear, socks, t-shirts o clothes with pockets o dress clothes (if you wish to go out in the evening) o sweaters or jackets for cool evenings/mornings o an umbrella; a collapsible one is easier to handle o light rain gear o insect repellent o Band-aids o Kleenex o washcloth o travel alarm o mouthwash/toothpaste o shampoo o feminine hygiene items o prescription medications o inexpensive hair dryer o contact lens solutions o suntan lotion/sunscreen o swimming suit (past participants have suggested bringing two) o water shoes (Rovinj’s beaches are beautiful, but rocky.) Rovinj, City Beach.

Bedsheets and bath towels will be provided by Villa Barbara. You might want to buy a beach towel once in Rovinj, in order to avoid taking up valuable luggage space.

Check out some additional packing tips here.

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Electronics Electrical current is 220 volts AC, 50 Hz. Most Croatian plugs have two round pins. We recommend that you pack a plug adapter together with your electrical appliances, so that you do not have to spend valuable time looking for adapters and transformers during your stay. Check the voltage on your items. Anything that is not rated for 110-240 volts will need a transformer in addition to a plug adapter. Most modern personal electronics (such as laptops, phone chargers, and electric shavers) are rated for worldwide 110-240 volts and just need a plug adapter to match the shape of Croatian outlets.

The Academic Program Your class meets 11-2 MWF on the ground floor of the Center for Historical Research in downtown Rovinj.

Conflict and Culture: The Case of Istria This four-week University of Wisconsin-Madison faculty-led program, titled Conflict and Culture, explores the relationship between violence and the formation of national identities in the unique cultural setting of Istria. Starting with the origins of European "vampire plagues" which emerged in the areas of intense cultural contact between different civilizations during the 17th and 18th centuries, the course provides insight into the lesser-known areas of cultural history of Europe and its relationship to the formation of national identity. Focusing on the historical traumas caused by the war and ethnic strife, the seminar examines specific ways for resolving the conflict and developing tolerant notion of shared culture. The course is conducted in Istria, one of the "border zones" which is presently located in the Republic of Croatia, a meeting place of Slavic, Italian and Germanic cultural traditions. Students will be based in Rovinj, a beautiful museum-city on the shores of the Adriatic Sea.

Rovinj was an island until the 17th century when the narrow channel separating the city from the mainland was filled to accommodate the growing population of the area as a naval and mercantile outpost of the Venetian Republic. The area has a rich historical legacy due to the constant exchange between Slavic, Latin, and Germanic cultures. The residents of Rovinj are multilingual and of mixed ethnic makeup. Croatian and Italian are used interchangeably and due to tourism and its border location, many of its residents also speak German and English. Istria is an excellent Classroom, Center for Historical Research.

6 setting for UW-Madison students keen on studying a variety of topics, from literature to politics and anthropology.

The seminar format will emphasize an interactive and interdisciplinary approach, with a minimum of lecturing from the seminar leader and local anthropologists, sociologists and cultural activists and a maximum of discussion and immersion into the culturally diverse context of the Istrian peninsula. The activities will include field trips to the archeological sites from Roman times, as well as to the more recent monuments from Venetian and Austro-Hungarian periods. The struggle for memory between the "official story" and the alternative ones will also be presented in class. Special attention will be paid to the emergence of dialogue between different cultures in the region. Students will be required to keep a dialogue journal of their experience in and out of class. This journal will be the basis for the grade for the course, along with presentations on class readings, participation and in-class discussions.

Pula Arena, Group Excursion.

Credits You will earn 4 credits for this course. A number of course equivalencies have been pre-approved for this program. You are able to choose one option from the list found in the Academics tile in MyStudyAbroad, which is what will be posted to your UW-Madison official transcript. Graduate students may also choose Slavic 755.

Grades and Grade Conversions The course will be graded on the normal UW-Madison grading scale.

7 Life Abroad Central Rovinj, Overhead View.

Rovinj’s Old Town (the oval peninsula shown above) was originally an island. Though the island is now connected to the mainland, you can still imagine what it might have been like as you look at an aerial view of the town today. The Church of St. Euphemia, built in 1736, crowns the highest point in the Old Town. The Center for Historical Research is just steps away from Marshal Tito Square, which faces the waterfront and pier. Carrera Street, which is filled with shops, connects the Old Town to the Bus Station.

Map An interactive Google map of Rovinj and major program locations is available here. Add your own points of interest to the map in order to share your favorite Rovinj locations with future participants!

Restaurants and Food There is an abundance of good restaurants in all price ranges. The food is influenced by Mediterranean cooking (seafood, pasta, pizza), as well as by Balkan cooking (grilled meats, salads,

8 breads). There is an abundance of bread and pastry shops, which offer burek, a Balkan filo dough specialty. Local fast food is similar to American fast food, yet of tastier variety.

Maslina Restaurant will provide breakfast (8.30-10.30 a.m.) and dinner (6 p.m. -8 p.m.) daily, which are included in the cost of the program. Maslina is a few minutes’ walk from your lodgings at Villa Barbara. Breakfast at Maslina will be buffet style, so you will be able to choose what you like each morning and serve yourself. At breakfast, Maslina will take orders for dinner. You’ll be able to select a dinner choice from a short list which includes pizza, salad, pasta, meat dishes, and vegetarian options.

Pizzeria da Sergio is one of the best places to get pizza in Rovinj.

Gelato can be found on practically every corner. Trying different flavors of gelato is one of the small joys of life in Rovinj. Past students have recommended the b 052 gelato shop on Carrera Street.

Shopping There are plenty of local souvenir shops, as well as more international shops and chains. Prices are bargains in comparison to neighboring Italy, which prompts many Italians to shop in Croatia during the weekends.

Toiletries and personal items are readily available in Rovinj. There’s a Konzum grocery store that stocks toiletries just down the street from Villa Barbara, but there are many other options in Rovinj as well. If there are particular personal items you want, or brands you prefer, be sure to bring those. If you are flexible, you should be able to find just about everything you need in Rovinj.

Transportation One of the advantages of the city is that it is easy to get around on foot. Cars are not allowed in the old part of the city, which Group Dinner at Maslina Restaurant. makes it a pedestrian paradise. You can take taxis, and most of the fares to outlying locations are around $5-$10. Rovinj is small, so does not have a city bus service. Rovinj is not connected to the rest of Istria or Croatia by rail.

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Given its size, Rovinj has fewer public transportation connections when compared with larger European cities. For this reason, it can take more time to get in and out of Istria. Students will have the time to travel on weekends, but should keep this in mind as they plan personal trips. There are several buses each day in and out of Rovinj. You can check the bus schedules online, or at the Rovinj Bus Station. Past students have also recommended the GoOpti shared van service. This can be a good option if you are trying to get to a location that does not have direct bus service, or if you are traveling at a time that does not have a regular bus scheduled. Past students have also recommended the GetbyBus app for finding bus tickets.

Learn more about what Croatia has to offer for tourism and recreation at its official tourism site.

Climate The interior of northern Croatia has a continental climate, while the coast enjoys a Mediterranean one. Central, semi-mountainous and mountainous regions, as well as the entire Adriatic coast, have a mild and sunny climate. Spring and autumn are mild along the coast, while winter can be cold and snowy in central and northern regions. It is very likely that the weather will be summer- like, with occasional showers and long sunny spells during this program.

Housing at Villa Barbara Students will stay in individual apartments at Villa Barbara. The amount of students in each apartment will vary, from 2 to 6. Each apartment is equipped with a private bathroom, and the larger apartments have 2 bathrooms to accommodate everyone. Breakfast and dinner will be provided in the nearby restaurant Maslina Restaurant. Most locations are within about 15-20 minutes walking, including the Center for Historical Research, which is where class is held. Wifi is available at Villa Barbara and Maslina.

Villa Barbara, Front Gate.

10 We will ask you to complete a Housing Form during the pre-departure process, which will help us put you in groups and assign you to an apartment unit.

House Rules: 1. No outside visitors allowed on premises (especially not overnight) 2. No noise after midnight (if you are coming late, be careful not to wake up everyone else) 3. Lock doors behind you, especially during the night. If you lose your keys you will charged a replacement fee for each key. 4. Laundry is available on the premises. Please be sure to conserve resources and do full loads of laundry rather than individual items. 5. Bedding will be changed once a week. If for any reason you need a new one before, let the Program Leader or our hosts know. 6. Turn off the lights and A/C when you are not in the room. Electricity is expensive in Croatia, so do not run the A/C when the windows are open. 7. Please keep your room as tidy as you are reasonably able to. 8. Restaurant Maslina (Olive) where you eat is close to the housing, make sure to be there at the appointed breakfast and dinner time. You will have a two-hour window for both breakfast and dinner.

Health Issues in Rovinj Students should not forget to bring sunscreen along with their swimsuits, since sunburn can occur rapidly without protection. A wide-brimmed sun hat is a good idea, as well as light raingear. There is a clinic/pharmacy in Rovinj for any medical issues that are minor in nature. The nearest bigger hospital is in Pula. All UW-Madison students are provided with health insurance through Cultural Insurance Services International (CISI). Be sure to read the Health section of your IAP Study Abroad Handbook for more information.

Safety Keeping all your money in one place is not advised - guard against possible loss by leaving a small stash of money in your room or buried in your backpack. Keep copies of important documents in a safe place (or online) in the case of theft.

We also recommend that you employ reasonable precautions such as avoiding walking alone at night. Stay in groups, and communicate with others on the program about your plans and when/where you will be. Be sure to read the Safety section of your IAP Study Abroad Handbook for more information.

Communication When making calls, keep time zone differences in mind. To make an international call to the United States, dial the access code for the country from which you are calling plus the United States country code (always “1”) followed by the appropriate U.S. area code and local number. To call internationally from the United States, dial “011”, the country code, city access code (if necessary) and the phone number. Country and city codes can be found online.

11 Note on Everyday Culture: You will be surprised by the degree to which young people in Croatia are similar to you. The influence of American popular culture will be more than apparent to you. Despite that, there are some cultural differences.

Language – Most of the locals can communicate some basic facts in English. Otherwise, apart from Croatian, many of them are bilingual in Italian, and speak German as a dominant language of tourism in the region.

Body language – The locals tend to speak with their hands as much as with their mouths. Also, there is more physical contact between people, which does not necessarily imply anything romantic and/or sexual in nature. Previous program participants noted that men in Croatia express interest in women in a more open manner, and sometimes a bit more assertive way. Express clearly if this bothers you.

Several useful phrases: Bok/Ćao – Hi (informal) Dobro jutro – good morning (formal), dobar dan - good afternoon (formal), dobra večer (good evening), laku noć (good night) Kako si (informal)? / Kako ste (formal)? – How are you? Hvala! – thank you! Ja sam Maria. – I am Maria. Kako se zoveš? – What is your name? Oprostite. – Pardon me. Excuse me. Gdje je Michelea Fachinettia 3? – Where is Michelea Fachinettia 3 (the address of your housing)? Gdje je restoran Maslina? – Where is restaurant Maslina (our restaurant)? Lijevo – left; Desno – right; pravo – straight Koliko košta…? – How much is it…? Jedan – 1, dva – 2, tri – 3, četiri – 4, pet – 5, šest – 6, sedam – 7, osam – 8, devet – 9 Deset – 10, pedeset – 50, sto – 100, tisuća – 1000 Hoću/Želim… – I want… Neću / ne želim – I don’t want…

Useful phone numbers in Croatia (+385 is regional code for Croatia that you need to add to any local number if calling from your American phones): Toma Longinovic +385 91 721 0691 – if there are any problems, please call me anytime. Emergency: (+385) 194 Police department: (+385) 192 Fire department: (+385) 193 Help at sea: (+385) 195

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