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1 the Borrowdale Archive This archive contains route descriptions are taken from a variety of sources originally published between 1925 and 2000, they have not have been updated. Vegetation grows, holds loosen and tastes change, in particular please treat any reference to in-situ gear with extreme caution. THE BORROWDALE ARCHIVE All star ratings are shown in red, these have not be re-assessed for at least 16 years so can only be taken as a broad indication that there was some good climbing there. You need to make your own judgement about the likely quality of any climb in its current condition and act on your judgement. The climbs are arranged in the same geographical order as used in the 2016 Guidebook and this archive is intended to be a supplement to that guide. Area 1 Derwentwater CASTLE HEAD Just above the east side of the Borrowdale valley road, about 200 metres from the roundabout on the outskirts of Keswick, is the hillock of Castle Head. This is an excellent viewpoint over Derwentwater and Borrowdale. It is a volcanic plug made of dolerite, not the Borrowdale volcanic series more usual of the area. Castle Head provides two climbing areas. Firstly, in the trees overlooking the road is a series of outcrops containing a number of short climbs and, secondly, on the east side of Castle Head, is a quarry giving serious longer routes. Castle Head Outcrops NY 269 227 130m SW These short problems have been used for many years with first details of routes being given in "Crag and Hound in Lakeland", a book by C.E. Benson published in 1902. The outcrops are best approached from the Borrowdale valley road and are located about 50 metres south west of the summit of Castle Head. They comprise a short polished slab with an overhanging right wall and a short pinnacle just in front of the slab up which the first route starts. Tommy's Crack 6m VD Climb the delightful crack up the front of the pinnacle. Stubble 13m HVS 4c Start at the left-hand side of the crag. Climb a groove to a tree and move out right onto the main slab. Continue to the top. Fiddle About 10m MS Ascend the Polished Slab starting up the slanting ledge, from the left. Finish directly up the slab, on some doubtful flakes, to gain tree roots at the top. The Who 15m E1 5b From the top of the step, 3m left of the corner of Pinball Wizard, ascend delicately to dubious flakes. Make an awkward move and continue to a tree and then the top. Pinball Wizard 15m HVS 5a * Start on the right of the Polished Slab below a leftward-slanting corner. Gain the corner with interest and follow it with difficulty in a rising curve to finish as for Fiddle About. Unforeseen Danger 15m E2 6a This route ascends the gangway in the overhanging right wall. Start just right of Pinball Wizard in a pit below a short overhanging wall. Overcome the wall and gain the base of the slanting gangway (peg runner). Follow this to below an inverted-V overhang and struggle over this. THE BORROWDALE ARCHIVE FELL & ROCK CLIMBING CLUB P a g e | 1 This archive contains route descriptions are taken from a variety of sources originally published between 1925 and 2000, they have not have been updated. Vegetation grows, holds loosen and tastes change, in particular please treat any reference to in-situ gear with extreme caution. 15m to the right of the Polished Slab Area is a short buttress with a fine view over Derwentwater. I'm Free 15m MVS 4b Climb the groove towards the left of the buttress and either gain holds on the right and finish awkwardly or, more easily, climb up a short rib on the left. Duke Bluebeard 11m MVS 4b B J Clark (Solo) 26/01/2006 Start 5 metres right of I'm Free, and just before a rocky ledge. Climb the wall then follow the short black groove, exiting rightwards. Finish up the thin crack above. May become prickly and need trimming in summer. Miraculous Mandarin 10m MVS 4c BJ Clarke (solo) 26/01/2006 Seven metres right of Duke Bluebeard, and around the corner of the buttress, lurks a steep V-groove. Climb the awkward V-groove using an odd assortment of holds and jams. Castle Head Quarry NY 271 228 100m East This intimidating quarry is hidden away in the trees adjacent to the footpath which runs from Springs Road to the Borrowdale valley road around the east side of Castle Head. Recent rockfall (1998) confirms the dubious solidity of some of the crag, and no guarantee is given about the state of any old pegs! This quarry can no longer be recommended as an abseiling venue. Jolly Joker (E5 6b, 1997) took the curving thin crackline on the left side of the buttress but rockfall has removed its final section. Amazing Journey 22m E1 5b A varied experience taking the obvious wide crack which splits the centre of the crag. Start in the large corner and gain a small ledge. Ascend the steep crack rightwards on good holds to below the obvious chimney-crack. Enter and climb the crack until forced out near its top for a precarious finish. The groove between Amazing Journey and Miracle Cure has been climbed at 6b to join and finish up Amazing Journey. Miracle Cure 20m E3 5c A forceful line up the centre of the quarry wall. Start directly below the top of Amazing Journey and climb the wall to finish just right of the crack of Amazing Journey. THE BORROWDALE ARCHIVE FELL & ROCK CLIMBING CLUB P a g e | 2 This archive contains route descriptions are taken from a variety of sources originally published between 1925 and 2000, they have not have been updated. Vegetation grows, holds loosen and tastes change, in particular please treat any reference to in-situ gear with extreme caution. Rakefoot Buttress NY 277 216 300m W This very small buttress of rock is about 20 minute’s walk from Rakefoot Farm (signposted off the A591). Walk as if going to Walla Crag up the left-hand side of the stone wall. Continue past the obvious yew trees and go through the gate where the wall turns to fence for a short distance. Follow the track a little way until you are about 30 metres beyond a solitary birch tree on the left (look out for a very small old tree stump by the path). Now head down directly towards the lake via rocky steps to a small grassy spur and pine trees. The crag is now on the right (facing out) with a cave being an obvious feature. The rock has a flaky, fractured look to it and the writers provide no guarantee as to its solidity. Belays are difficult to arrange above several of the routes. In its favour, the crag provides excellent views over the lake. The routes are described from right to left. Life Guard 17m E2 5b 1993 This takes the steep wall to the left of the cave. Climb the steep wall then make a short traverse left. Climb the groove to the overhang and pull over with care. The Straits of Despair 17m HVS 5a 1993 Seven metres left of the cave is a step up. Immediately above this is a groove. Gain the groove and move right, with difficulty, onto the rib and a good handhold. Easier climbing up the rib leads to an overhang. Climb this with care. White Dwarf 17m HVS 5a 1993 Start as for Straits of Despair. Climb the groove which is difficult to start. Salamanders 12m VS 4C 1993 Four metres left of White Dwarf is a prow of rock with a deep groove immediately to its left. Climb the short steep groove to the top. Ultramarines 14m VS 4C 1993 Climb into the foot of the deep groove, as for Salamanders, step left and climb the steep wall on small holds to the top. THE BORROWDALE ARCHIVE FELL & ROCK CLIMBING CLUB P a g e | 3 This archive contains route descriptions are taken from a variety of sources originally published between 1925 and 2000, they have not have been updated. Vegetation grows, holds loosen and tastes change, in particular please treat any reference to in-situ gear with extreme caution. Unknown Warriors 34m E1 5b 1993 A right-to-left traverse. Climb the deep groove of Salamanders to a ledge on the left then descend a steep crack in a groove for 3m. Traverse left across a steep wall into a corner and move round the rib on the left. Make an awkward descending traverse into a steep groove. Just above the overhang, step left into another groove, go round the nose and finish up the steep wall. Death Guard 14m VS 4c 1993 Start just left of the deep groove of Salamanders. Move up a short way, traverse left to an undercling and then climb a steep wall on good holds. Night Lords 14m VS 4c 1993 Four metres left of Salamanders is a bad step. Night Lords starts 3m further left at a groove just before a small oak tree. Climb the narrow groove all the way to the top. World Eaters 20m VS 4c 1993 Start as for Night Lords. Climb the groove for 4m. Step left onto the rib and climb steeply up the groove above. White Scars 20m HVS 5a 1993 Start just left of Night Lords above the small oak tree.
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