Lolita – Nekaltybės Ir Nedorybės Mišinys

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Lolita – Nekaltybės Ir Nedorybės Mišinys MADOS ekspertai engva V. Nabokovo ranka sukurtas paveikslas, pasau- liui išgirdus provokuojan- čią jaunos mergaitės ir pagyvenusio vyro meilės istoriją, peržengė literatūrinio žan- ro rėmus. Matyt, įvyko kažkoks sutapi- mas: visuomenė, kurioje 1950 metų pabai- goje prasidėjo iki tol nematytas jaunimo KADRAS Iš STENLIO KUBRIKO FILMO maištas, pamėgo šią literatūrinę veikėją „LOLITA“. JAMES MASON IR SUE LYON ir pavertė ją mados ikona. Galima sakyti, Lolita netgi tapo hipių, pasisavinusių iš jos mėgavimosi savimi infantilumą kartu Visų pirma, Twigg y – nekaltomis lūpo- nebuvo nei protesto, nei provokacijos, nei su nepaklusnumu ir įžūlumu, įvaizdžio mis, išsigandusio vaiko žvilgsniu ir tyčia neprieinamumo ir neteisingumo pagun- skelbėja. padarytu „purvinu“ akių makiažu. Brigit- dos. Aštuntojo dešimtmečio disko stilius Tam, kad pavirstų madingu produktu, te Bardot, derinusi vaikišką kaprizingumą seksualumą atveda iki didžiausio atviru- įvaizdžiui būtinas vaizdinis įsikūnijimas. su seksualiniu išsilaisvinimu. Jane Birkin, mo, tačiau daro jį ir tikrą, „suaugusį“ – su- Tai įvyko1962 metais pasirodžius Stenlio Mia Farrow, Catherine Deneuve... siformavusį. Jame išnyksta vaikiškumas, o Kubriko filmui „Lolita“, kuriame debiu- Galų gale Lolitos įvaizdžiu pasinaudojo kartu su juo – ir nedorovingumas. LOLITANEKALTYBĖS IR NEDORYBĖS MIŠINYS – tavo Sue Lyon. Būtent jos išvaizda, filmui ir jį tiražavo septintojo dešimtmečio ko- Šis įvaizdis vėl grįžta dešimtajame de- pasirodžius ekranuose, tapo pirmuoju mercinė mada. Juk būtent tuo metu pir- šimtmetyje – mada, kartu su istorija, pasi- stiliaus ir įvaizdžio kūrėjas, mados analitikas gausių pamėgdžiojimų pavyzdžiu. mą kartą atsiranda įžymusis mini sijonas! suka spirale. Praėjo 30 metų – išaugo pir- Konstantinas Bogomolovas Bet kas gi tokio ypatingo slypi šioje mer- Lengvai kliošinis, labai trumpas, jis pri- mųjų lolitų vaikai. Jie, kaip būdinga jau- ginoje – paauglėje? Paslaptis paprasta: ne- mena ikimokyklinio amžiaus mergaičių niems, kritikuoja tėvus: viskas, kas vyko Lolita – sutrumpintas ispaniškas Doloresos vardas. Taip Vladimiras kaltybės ir nedorybės mišinys. Kampuoto drabužius ir kartu yra atvirai seksualus. aštuntajame–devintajame dešimtmetyje, Nabokovas pavadino savo romano „Lolita“, išvydusio šviesą 1958 vaikiškumo ir seksualinės provokacijos, Bejėgis vaikiškumas ir nepridengtas na- jaunajai kartai atrodo per daug buržuaziš- metais Amerikoje, pagrindinę veikėją. Skandalingo siužeto ir erotinių bejėgiškumo ir iššūkio, mokyklinės su- tūralizmas. Nekaltybė ir nedorybė. Ką gi, ka, per daug tiesu, per daug tikra. scenų dėka romanas akimirksniu tapo bestseleriu... Šiandien atsiras knelės ir lūpų dažų derinys. Kiekviena šių idealus apsimetimas Lolita. Amerikiečių dizaineris Calvinas Kleinas nemažai žmonių, neskaičiusių romano, tačiau Lolitos vardą žino visi. sudedamųjų dalių buvo žinoma pasauliui Tačiau bet koks madingas gaminys vienas pirmųjų pajuto naujas dešimtojo de- Vargu ar galėjo V. Nabokovas numatyti, kad jis suteiks vardą vienam ir anksčiau. Pavyzdžiui, Baby Look („mer- anksčiau ar vėliau tampa senamadiš- šimtmečio nuotaikas ir pateikė pasauliui kultinių XX-ojo amžiaus antrosios pusės įvaizdžių. Ir XXI-ajame am- gina – vaikas“) baltomis kojinaitėmis, kas. Lolitos įvaizdis išeina iš mados jau atgimusį Lolitos įvaizdį bei jį įkūnijančią žiuje Lolitos įvaizdis – vis dar mados viršūnėse. pūstomis rankovėmis ir rausvu saldainiu. aštuntojo dešimtmečio viduryje. Sue „kampuotą“ anglę Kate Moss. Būtent jis, Arba jos priešingybė Bad Girl („bloga Lyon ir Twiggy užaugo. O būti Lolita, padarydamas šią merginą savo reklaminių mergaitė“) vulgariu makiažu, su cigarete. kai tau daugiau kaip 30, – absurdiška ir kampanijų ir mados pasirodymų pagrin- Tačiau Lolita šias priešingybes sujungė į apgailėtina. dine veikėja, pavertė ją supermodeliu. Už- anksčiau neregėtą sprogstamąjį mišinį. Nauja karta, gavusi seksualinę laisvę, tenka prisiminti skandalingą vyriško aro- Septintojo dešimtmečio viduryje Loli- dėl kurios kovojo hipiai, „baby boomers“ mato „Obsession“ reklamą, kurioje Kate tos įvaizdžio bruožais jau naudojosi dau- ir septintojo dešimtmečio lolitos, seksua- Moss pasirodo apsinuoginusi gulėdama ant BRIDGITTE BARDOT www.bogomolov.lv 1955 mETAIS KANUOSE guma aktorių, dainininkių ir modelių. lumu naudojosi jau kaip norma. Joje jau juodos odinės sofos. Sofa vyriškai sunki ir 2 EXPRESS MADA gegužė 2008 2008 gegužė EXPRESS MADA 3 MADOS ekspertai lakoniška, apnuogintas pusiau vaikiškas ir velniško nedorovingumo harmoniją. krašto – vaikiškai bejėgė ir su nekaltai bal- kūnas ant jos atrodo beveik nekaltas, ta- Ir pagaliau 1997 metais pasirodo dar tais naktiniais marškiniais, o ant jos lūpų čiau... šiame keistame derinyje visiškai aiš- viena V. Nabokovo romano „Lolita“ ekra- užtepti raudoni lūpų dažai... Na, tiesiog kiai įskaitoma pagrindinė Lolitos įvaizdžio nizacija – su pagrindinius vaidmenis at- paruošti paveikslėliai madų žurnalams! tema: nekaltybės ir nedorybės kontrastas! liekančiais Jeremiu Ironsu ir Dominique Vėlesni Lolitos įvaizdžio pavyzdžiai būtų Ir, nors Kate Moss tada jau buvo 18 metų, Swain. Dėl meninių filmo vertybių kilo mergaitės iš TATU dueto ir dainininkė Calviną Kleiną netgi buvo bandyta apkal- nemažai ginčų. Bet viena nekėlė jokių Avril Lavigne. Naujojo amžiaus pradžioje tinti pedofilijos propaganda. jos sukūrė šiuolaikiškesnį šio įvaiz- Kate Moss, kurią neretai vadinda- Lolitos įvaizdyje slypi kontrastai: džio variantą, nekopijuodamos nei vo „naująja Twiggy“, dėka dešimta- Sue Lyon, nei Twiggy, nei Kate Moss. jame dešimtmetyje modelių versle kampuotas vaikiškumas Lolitos įvaizdis stipriai įsitvirtino ma- įvyksta tikra revoliucija. Modelių ir seksualinė provokacija, doje ir tapo jaunimo klasika. agentūrų durys atsivėrė penkioli- Šiandien jis mums atrodo ne toks kmetėms mergaitėms, ir nepriekaiš- bejėgiškumas ir iššūkis, mokyklinės pavojingas, kaip buvo prieš 40 metų. tingoms subrendusioms gražuolėms suknelės ir lūpų dažų derinys. Dabar tai jau tampa norma. Lolitos teko pasispausti, o paskui ir visai įvaizdis jau nustojo būti priemonė išeiti į pensiją. abejonių: Lolitos įvaizdis buvo vizualiai suaugusiam vyrui suvilioti – tai vaka- Ant Lolitos įvaizdžio populiarumo nepriekaištingas ir visiškai šiuolaikiškas, rykščio vaiko būdas išreikšti save. bangos dešimto dešimtmečio viduryje iš- netgi galima sakyti – madingas komercine Tai įvaizdis, kuris visada įdomus savo kyla jaunos prancūzų aktorės ir daininin- prasme. Lolita su vaikiškomis kasytėmis ir galimybe sudaryti kontrastus, sumaišyti kės Vanessos Paradis žvaigždė. Ryškiausi bjauria dantų plokštele guli ant žolės, apsi- vaikiškumą su seksualumu, teisingumą su pavyzdžiai – jos vaidmenys filmuose „Bal- rengusi atvirai prigludusią prie kūno šlapią provokacija, kuris neturi nė vienos klišės, tosios vestuvės“ ir „Eliza“, kuriuose Vanes- suknelę. Lolita mokykline suknele begė- tačiau egzistuoja daugybė galimybių at- sa labai tiksliai, tačiau be jokios „retro“ diškai ir natūraliai pakėlė koją, norėdama rasti vis naujus ir naujus receptus. Jį gali užuominos atkūrė angeliškos nekaltybės nusilakuoti nagus. Lolita sėdi ant lovos sustabdyti vienintelis dalykas. Amžius. ■ AVRIL LAVIGNE 4 EXPRESS MADA gegužė 2008.
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