PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHOTOGRAPHY Jake McGuire TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT PROPERY OF OF PROPERY OF PROPERY OF PROPERY PROPERY OF OF PROPERY OF PROPERY OF PROPERY TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS VIRGINIA TIDEWATER TIDEWATER PROPERY OF OF PROPERY PROPERY OF OF PROPERY OF PROPERY PROPERY OF OF PROPERY PROPERY OF OF PROPERY OF PROPERY

TIDEWATER VIRGINIA A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT JAKE MCGUIRE TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Jamestown, and Williamsburg. and Williamsburg. Jamestown, Virginia Beach, as well as historic Yorktown, as well historic Beach, Virginia the communities of Hampton, Newport News, of Hampton, Newport the communities Norfolk, Chesapeake, Portsmouth, Suffolk, and Suffolk, Chesapeake, Portsmouth, Norfolk, world, the modern Tidewater Virginia area includes Virginia the modern Tidewater world, Situated on one of the greatest natural harbors in the TIDEWATER VIRGINIA

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a photographic portrait

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Jake McGuire Copyright © 2007 by Twin Lights Publishers, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or other- wise, arising from the contents of this publi- cation. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with informa- tion supplied. PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS First published in the United States of America by:

Twin Lights Publishers, Inc. 8 Hale Street Rockport, Massachusetts 01966 Telephone: (978) 546-7398 http://www.twinlightspub.com

ISBN: 1-885435-72-X ISBN: 978-1-885435-72-9

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Hampton Harbor (opposite) The Hampton River waterfront offers sites of historic interest, residential high-rises and marinas.

(jacket front) Federal-style architecture in the Freemason district

(jacket back) The Schooner Alliance

PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS Special thanks to Anna Katalkina for help- ing to produce this book. She worked tire- lessly on researching Tidewater subjects, arranging and coordinating the shooting, as well as selecting and photo editing many hundreds of pictures. Anna is an accom- plished artist, with works in private and corporate collections in the U.S. and abroad. Her fine art photography of Europe is a part of The McGuire Collection.

Editorial researched and written by: Francesca and Duncan Yates www.freelancewriters.com

Book design by: SYP Design & Production, Inc. www.sypdesign.com

Printed in China introduction

n the shores of the Virginia Peninsula, American history began in 1607, when 101 English men and 4 boys, exhausted from their ocean crossing in three small ships, stepped ashore at Jamestown. More than a dozen previous efforts to colonize America had failed, yet Jamestown persevered to become the oldest permanent English settle- PROPERYment in the New World.OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS O The Hampton, James, Elizabeth, and Nansemond Rivers meet in the body of water known as before they empty into the Chesapeake. Taken from the English term for harbor, Hampton Roads is one of the greatest natural harbors in the world. It was only fitting that the companies in England that financed the venture chose this location for settlement. Soon after, the region would become the center of a thriv- ing tobacco export industry. Today, the Tidewater area includes the seven cities of Hampton, Newport News, Norfolk, Chesapeake, Portsmouth, Suffolk, and Virginia Beach, as well as the historic communities of Yorktown, Jamestown, and Williamsburg. Through the centuries, the tidewaters of Virginia have had a front-row PROPERYseat for major historic OF battles TWIN and events LIGHTS that helped toPUBLISHERS shape the coun- PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS try. The last battle of the American Revolution was fought and won at Yorktown. The great sea battle of the ironclads during the Civil War was fought in Hampton Roads waters. By land and by sea, the compelling images of award-winning photo- grapher, Jake McGuire, introduce the historic cities and communities of Tidewater Virginia in this striking photographic portrait. Visit the triangle of historic colonial villages: Jamestown, Yorktown, and Colonial Williams- burg. Tour the quaint town of Hampton, the modern cities of Norfolk, home to the world’s largest naval base; Newport News, the center of the military shipbuilding industry, and the resort city of Virginia Beach, the largest city in the state. Each location is rich in historic and cultural PROPERYtreasures, acclaimed OF universities TWIN and excitingLIGHTS entertainment PUBLISHERS venues. PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS From the Colonial Era to present day, the Virginia Tidewater region has made invaluable contributions to the history and aspirations of a great nation.

Hunter House Victorian Museum Open the door to this historic house in Norfolk and enter the Victorian era when life moved at a slower pace. Now a muse- um, the 1894 house was restored in 1988 and showcases original furnishings of the Hunter family.

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Hampton Coliseum (top) Convention Center (bottom) Old Point Comfort Light (opposite) With its distinctive architecture, the The Hampton Roads Convention Center This historic lighthouse was built in 1803 Hampton Coliseum sits like a king’s crown sports a nautical look with canvas sails on the northern entrance to Hampton on seventy-five acres of landscaped park- that catch the breeze. Between meetings, Roads near Fort Monroe. The beacon’s land and provides a versatile venue for conventioneers can enjoy a variety of activ- important roles during the War of 1812 events from Cirque du Soleil to motorcycle ities throughout the area and the Civil War earned it a listing on the racing on ice. National Register of Historic Places.

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Historic Fort Monroe Casemate Museum Constructed in 1834, Fort Monroe was one surrounded by a moat and is the largest Fort Monroe’s Casemate Museum is rich The museum also features the quarters of of several coastal forts established to pro- stone fort in the country. It remains an in Civil War artifacts and provides a fasci- a young lieutenant named Robert E. Lee, tect America from foreign invasion in the active U.S. Army post to this day. Walking nating showcase of how a young country the guest quarters of President Abraham aftermath of the War of 1812 with Great tours of this historic site are offered during learned to defend its shores. History buffs Lincoln, and the prison cell of Confederate Britain. Named for President James the summer months. will appreciate the displays of uniforms, President Jefferson Davis. Monroe, the six-sided fort is completely weapons, artillery and old photographs.

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Flags at Fort Monroe (top) Engineers’ Wharf (bottom) Generals’ Row (opposite) Fort Monroe has been a military post since A popular fishing pier today, Engineers’ Generals’ Row is a prestigious, four-star the first English settlers arrived in 1609. Wharf was built in 1818 to receive materi- neighborhood at Fort Monroe where the Garrisoned continuously since 1823, this als for the construction of Fort Monroe. presiding generals of this historic army National Historic Landmark will officially The fort went on to play a significant role base have their living quarters. Today, close forever in 2011. in the strategic advance of Union troops to the base’s commanding officers oversee pivotal victories during the Civil War. a broad military training operation.

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Fort Wool (above and left) Fort Wool, an important line of defense for the Tidewater area in early America, has been a state park since 1970. Early in the Rocky Fortress 20th century, Battery Ferdinand Claiborne, one of six batteries at Fort Wool, housed Originally named Fort Calhoun, this mili- two shielded, six-inch disappearing guns tary post was built on rocky Rip-Raps pointing out to sea. Today scenic Fort Island in 1823. After the Civil War, it Wool, along with its variety of coastal birds was named Fort Wool in honor of Major and native wildlife, is only accessible by General John Ellis Wool, whose Union boat and passenger ferry from Hampton. forces gained control of Norfolk.

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Hampton Waterfront (top) Hampton History Museum (bottom) American Theatre Hampton’s historic waterfront features The Hampton History Museum and Visitor Like many vaudeville houses, this 1908 cobblestone streets, a seaside park, and Center chronicles four hundred years of theatre in the Phoebus area of Hampton, the famed Cousteau Society’s world head- the oldest continuous English-speaking soon became a movie cinema. It was quarters. The main exhibit area showcases settlement in America. Nine galleries dis- renovated in 2000 and is once again a top the impressive contributions of famed play artifacts from the Kecoughtan Indians performing arts theatre with cutting edge undersea explorer Jacques-Yves Cousteau. through modern times. acoustics and turn-of-the-century ambiance.

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Adventures in Flight (above) Virginia Air and Space Center (opposite) The 1903 Wright-Flyer, WW II Bombers The Virginia Air and Space Center cele- rockets, the Apollo 12 Command Module and FA-22’s are a sampling of the many brates Hampton Roads’ important role in and the Viking Lander that took the first aircraft on display at the Virginia Air and commercial, civil, and military aeronautics. photograph of the surface of Mars. The Space Center. Through simulation, one can Interactive exhibits showcase historic museum also features an IMAX theater. experience the thrill of taking off from an moments in aviation from the Wright Nearby is the prestigious NASA Langley aircraft carrier or piloting a space shuttle. Brothers’ inaugural flight to lunar orbits, Research Center.

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Marina Sunrise (opposite) Osprey on Hampton River (above) One of the friendliest communities on the Impressive osprey are often found nesting Chesapeake Bay, Hampton is home to along the Hampton River. With a wingspan commercial fishermen as well as yachting of over five feet, the osprey is one of the enthusiasts attracted by weekly dockside largest birds of prey in North America. concerts, harbor cruises, and a festival Diving in feet first to catch its quarry, the devoted to the infamous pirate, Blackbeard. osprey dines almost exclusively on fish.

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Sailing in Hampton Roads (opposite, top) Sport Fishing (opposite, bottom) Farmers of the Sea (above) Winds from the bay fill sails during a The Chesapeake Bay is a great venue for Commercial fishing vessels deliver their glorious day of recreational boating in Atlantic sports fishermen, offering a variety catches to a seafood processing plant on Hampton Roads. of catches such as bass, rockfish, and the Hampton waterfront. The Hampton perch. The rich diversity of marine life Roads fishing industry provides some of the also includes crabs, oysters, and eels. In freshest and sweetest Atlantic seafood on the background is . the coast.

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Hampton University (top) Hampton University Museum (bottom) Memorial Chapel Bell Tower (opposite) Hampton University was founded in 1868 Established in 1868, this landmark institu- Built in 1886 in the Italian Romanesque after the Civil War to help former slaves tion is the oldest African-American museum Revival style, the revered Memorial Chapel learn the skills of self-sufficiency that came in the country, with permanent collections now serves as a non-denominational sanc- with their new freedom. Today the univer- of over 9,000 artifacts and art that also tuary on the Hampton University campus. sity has a student population of nearly six represent cultures from Hawaii, the Pacific thousand. Islands, Asia and Africa.

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Volvo Ocean Race (above and opposite) Some of the most skilled sailors in the Atlantic to Portsmouth, Rotterdam, and world compete in this grueling, round-the- Gothenburg. Spectators on Virginia Beach world race. The 2006 race course began in and the Hampton waterfront enjoyed excit- Galicia, Spain and ran to South Africa, ing views of the race as these impressive Australia, South America, then on to vessels sailed with grace and speed through Baltimore, New York, and across the Chesapeake Bay to Baltimore.

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James River’s Gold Coast (top) Virginia Living Museum (bottom) James River Bridge Luxury homes along the James River in The Virigina Living Museum encompasses When the James River Bridge was com- Newport News are prime real estate with a native wildlife park, botanical preserve, pleted in 1928, it was the longest bridge waterfront access, spectacular views of the science museum, planetarium, and aquari- over water in the world. Spanning 4.5 river and bay, and the constant activities of um. It became the first living museum east miles, it carries four lanes of traffic con- naval, commercial, and recreational ships of the Mississippi in 1987 and continues to necting the South Hampton Roads area to of all sizes. flourish with award-winning exhibits. Newport News on the Virginia Peninsula.

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Mariners’ Museum (above) International Small Craft Center (opposite) This internationally acclaimed museum in Opened in 2003, the International Small Newport News is one of the largest and Craft Center is a new addition to the most comprehensive maritime museums in Mariners’ Museum. It features a collection the world. Over 35,000 antiquities bear of 150 small boats from 36 countries. An witness to the exciting history of the world’s elevated path leads through eleven areas ships in both war and peace times. with themes such as culture and shape.

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Ship Modeling (above) A professional model builder creates a ship for the museum’s extraordinary collection of historically accurate reproductions, featur- ing every type of vessel ever constructed. They range in size from a tiny Chinese sampan model to a 33-foot-long replica of PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS thePUBLISHERS Queen Elizabeth. PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS

Mariners’ Museum Playground (left) A small child sits in the portal of a wooden play ship outside of the Mariners’ Museum. The museum’s woodland park setting fea- tures a five-mile hiking trail around Lake Maury.

Exquisite Craftsmanship (opposite) Seafaring enthusiasts can spend hours tour- ing the fascinating collections of over 2000 handcrafted ship models, paintings, rare figureheads, and authentic items from the Civil War ironclad, U.S.S. Monitor. The Mariners’ Museum has over 60,000 square feet of gallery space.

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Village Theatre (above) Virginia War Museum (opposite) Originally a movie theater, the Village Since 1923 the Virginia War Museum in Theatre in Newport News now houses Newport News has collected over 60,000 the Peninsula Community Theatre for the artifacts of which only five percent can be Performing Arts. The original art deco mar- viewed at one time due to limited space. quee and building design are a lasting trib- The prolific collection covers America’s ute to an era gone by. military history from 1775 to the present.

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Lee Hall Mansion, Newport News Ferguson Center for the Arts (top) Christopher Newport University (bottom) Wealthy planter Richard D. Lee built this antebellum plantation house left on the The Ferguson Center is the pride of This nationally acclaimed institution was fast-track of excellence. In 1999, U.S. Italianate mansion in 1859. Three years lower Virginia Peninsula. Guided tours give Christopher Newport University. Designed founded in 1960 in Newport News as a News & World Report ranked the school later, the Lee family fled their new home as a detailed perspective of plantation life and by architect, I.M. Pei, it hosts some of the two-year branch of the venerable College number two among regional public liberal Union troops advanced upon them in the the Union Army’s 1862 Peninsula world’s finest performers in a 1700-seat of William and Mary (chartered 1693). arts colleges in the South in its America’s first battles of the Civil War. Today the Campaign. proscenium theatre, as well as more inti- Even though it is the youngest comprehen- Best Colleges. fully-restored mansion is the only large, mate 450-seat and 125-seat theatres. sive university in Virginia, it has been on a

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Rose Garden at Huntington Park Warwick Boulevard Shops Located on a bluff overlooking the James The quaint residential architecture of New- River, this scenic park in Newport News port News’ Huntington Heights community showcases a landscaped rose garden with is also home to a variety of charming shops. forty-five different bloom varieties. The Listed on the National Register of Historic grounds also feature Fort Fun, a 15,000- Places, this neighborhood has many lovely square-foot wooden playground. homes built in the 1920’s.

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Schooner Alliance, Yorktown Watermen’s Museum (left and right) Experience sailing’s golden age aboard this Situated on the shores of the York River, watermen, an ancient title for those who 105-foot, three-masted schooner that Watermen’s Museum was founded in 1981 make their living at sea. The term is still departs from Yorktown’s Riverwalk Landing. during the 200th anniversary celebration of used today in England as well as in the As the vessel’s billowy sails fill with salty the Battle of Yorktown, the final battle of Chesapeake area. The museum features breezes, voyagers can view dolphins, the Revolutionary War. The museum hon- the history of local fishing from Native seabirds, and historic sites along the coast. ors the heritage of the Chesapeake Bay’s American times to the present.

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Victory Monument (opposite) Historic Yorktown Battlefield (above) Overlooking the York River, the female fig- The Yorktown Battlefield is the famed site General Cornwallis surrendered, the ure of Victory stands proudly atop this of the battle that ended the American Nelson House, a museum of artifacts ninety-eight-foot-tall monument, a tribute Revolutionary War and secured America’s including George Washington’s field tent, to the brave soldiers who fought and won freedom from England in 1781. History and the town of York. the last great battle of the American buffs can tour the battle’s siege lines, com- Revolution. plete with cannons, the field where British

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Yorktown Victory Center (top and bottom) Historic Yorktown (opposite) The Yorktown Victory Center chronicles decade after independence was won, while Historic Yorktown, with the Coleman America’s history from colonial times to a re-created Continental Army camp char- Memorial Bridge beyond, is part of the independence, with an emphasis on acterizes the daily life of soldiers at the Historic Triangle that includes Yorktown, Yorktown’s role as a decisive battleground end of the American Revolution. Jamestown, and Williamsburg. All three of the Revolutionary War. A 1780’s farm are 17th-century colonial villages where liv- depicts early-American life during the ing history is enacted every day for tourists.

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Abingdon Episcopal Church (above and left) The largest of eight colonial churches in Virginia, Abingdon Episcopal Church was established in 1650 in Gloucester. The current church, on the same site, was built in 1755 in a rare, Latin crucifix design. The Historic Gloucester earliest graves in the church cemetery date A tobacco-producing area in colonial times, cially during Historic Garden Week in back to the mid-1650’s and include the Gloucester is also known as the site of April. Beginning with English daffodil final resting places of Revolutionary and General Cornwallis’ “Second Surrender,” bulbs brought over by colonists, the spring Confederate War soldiers. These raised after his defeat at nearby Yorktown. flower became a flourishing industry, mak- monuments mark family graves that were Gloucester’s old plantation homes and pri- ing Gloucester County the Daffodil Capital moved to the church cemetery in 1911. vate estates are open to the public, espe- of America by the 20th century.

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Jamestown Settlement (top) James River Ferry (bottom) Captain John Smith (opposite) In 1607, thirteen years before the Pilgrims In 1925, the Jamestown-Scotland Ferry was President of the Jamestown Colony in 1607, landed at Plymouth Rock, 101 men and 4 the first automobile ferryboat to cross the Captain John Smith played an integral lead- boys, the only survivors of a difficult James River. The scenic ride connects ership role in the formation of Jamestown. Atlantic crossing, established a settlement Jamestown with Scotland, Virginia. It is Illness sent him back to England in 1609, that became America’s earliest permanent the only 24-hour ferry operation in Virginia but he returned to America in 1614 to map English colony. that is state-run. the New England coast.

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Colonial Jamestown (top) Powhatan Indian Village (bottom and opposite) The Visitors Center encompasses the The powerful Chief Powhatan was father to dance circle, a garden, and a cooking pit. world of early Jamestown with exhibits of Princess Pocahontas, who intervened to Animal skins had many important uses for 17th-century artifacts and a documentary save Captain John Smith from execution by Virginia’s Native Americans. Here skins are film that explores the settlement’s begin- the Powhatan tribe leader. A recreation of dried and stretched on a rack to be made nings and interactions with their Algonquin the Algonquin chief's village has mound- into clothing, water pouches or bedding. neighbors. shaped, reed-covered houses, a ceremonial

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Colonial Greeting (top) Colonial Military Gear (bottom) Inside the Palisades A James Fort guard greets a settler at the James Fort visitors are invited to participate Thatched-roof houses inside the triangular sand. Other dwellings at the fort include front gate, just one of many interactions in colonial activities such as forging metal wooden palisades of James Fort are authen- a church, guardhouse, storehouse, and gov- among costumed historical interpreters that objects, sewing, and preparing a meal. tically constructed with the wattle-and- ernor’s house, all authentically reproduced portray the rhythm of daily life in America’s They can also try on helmets and armor daub technique. The builder sets the walls to reflect the early years of Jamestown, first continuous English settlement. and watch costumed performers fire their with wooden stakes (wattles) and daubs or 1610–1614. muskets. covers them with a mixture of clay and

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Susan Constant (above) Discovery (opposite) The Susan Constant is a replica of one of The Discovery was the smallest of three four-hundredth anniversary celebration the three ships that brought America’s ships that brought the first adventurous in 2007, the third ship, Godspeed, sailed to earliest European ancestors from England men and boys to Jamestown. Remarkably, six ports between Old Town Alexandria, to Virginia under the sparsest of conditions these modest sailing ships made it across Virginia and Newport, Rhode Island in in 1607. The ship can be boarded at thousands of miles of rough Atlantic May, 2006. Jamestown Settlement’s pier. waters. In preparation for Jamestown’s

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Photos above and opposite reprinted with permission from The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation

Colonial Williamsburg (above) History Comes to Life (opposite) It is the eve of the American Revolution of authentic figures such as (left to right) Colonial Williamsburg is a first-rate and the tension is high in the town of Gowan Pamphlet, a slave and founder of adventure back in time. A cast of historical Williamsburg, the new colonial capital of a black church; Thomas Jefferson; Lydia interpreters relive Colonial America on the Virginia, where a young country is defining Broadnax, a slave cook for George Wythe; brink of revolution surrounded by more its courage and beliefs. History comes alive and Patrick Henry. than 500 restored and reconstructed build- with historical reenactments and depictions ings on hundreds of acres of land.

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The College of William & Mary (top) Christopher Wren Building (bottom) Norborne Berkeley Statue The second oldest college in America, this The oldest academic building still in use Norborne Berkeley, an English baron, was stately university in Williamsburg was (1693), was designed by famed architect governor of Virginia from 1768 to 1770 granted a charter by King William III and Christopher Wren and was the first build- and served on the board of the College of Queen Mary II in 1693. Since its incep- ing on the William & Mary campus. It also William & Mary. He resided in the tion, the Ivy League college has continued housed political activities during James- Governor’s Palace, a major attraction at to be highly acclaimed. town’s days as the state capitol. Colonial Williamsburg.

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The Williamsburg Winery (above) (opposite) Tours and tasting events are offered at the Spanish moss cascades from tree limbs at settlers of Jamestown landed at this site on Williamsburg Winery, the largest winery in First Landing State Park, the most northern April 26, 1607, then continued up the Virginia. During the tour, the fascinating location in the country where this moss can James River to establish the permanent winemaking process is revealed and the be found. The park’s hiking trails meander settlement of Jamestown. different vintages from this award-winning through a unique habitat of lagoons, winery can be sampled. cypress trees, and rare plants. The first

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Floating Museum U.S.S. Wisconsin Off Granby Street in Norfolk, the U.S.S. On December 17th, 1944, just a year after Wisconsin creates an interesting landscape being launched, the U.S.S. Wisconsin illusion. Actually afloat at nearby docks, miraculously survived a typhoon in the she is one of the most decorated battle Pacific Ocean. The Wisconsin was the ships in the history of warfare, earning six largest and last great battle ship commis- battle stars, five in World War II alone. sioned by the U.S. Navy.

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National Maritime Museum (top and bottom) The Homecoming (opposite) The National Maritime Museum is a stir- Wisconsin floating museum, the Hampton An emotional homecoming of a chief petty ring attraction on the Norfolk waterfront Roads Naval Museum, the NOAA@, officer is depicted in this bronze in Town that explores the military, economic, and education resource center, and the Cruise Point Park. This statue and The Lone Sailor, environmental impact of the sea on the Norfolk terminal, Virginia’s homeport for in Wisconsin square, were donated by the Norfolk community. It includes Nauticus, a the booming Caribbean cruise business. U.S. Navy Memorial Foundation. Both have marine-themed science center, the U.S.S. sister statues in Washington, D.C.

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U.S.S. Wisconsin Military Might First deployed in 1944, the U.S.S. Wiscon- The U.S.S. Wisconsin’s main gun battery sin still features six of her original nine has a range of 23 miles while her second 16-inch guns that fire shells weighing over gun battery has a range of over 9 miles. one ton apiece. Three were removed to add She is one of three U.S. Navy battleships Tomahawk and Harpoon missiles before that remain candidates for reactivation. deployment to the Persian Gulf in 1990.

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Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel (above) Chesapeake Bay Fishing (opposite, top) American Rover Tour (opposite, bottom) Connecting Virginia’s eastern shore to the The vast wetlands and waterways of the Inspired by the design of elegant, 19th- Virginia mainland at Virginia Beach, this Chesapeake Bay are filled with an century schooners, the American Rover 20-mile-long bridge-tunnel complex is con- unmatched variety of marine life for relives the thrill of sailing the Elizabeth sidered one of the seven engineering won- commercial fishermen, serious anglers, River as it felt over one hundred years ago. ders of the modern world. and even novice seamen. The schooner sets sail on morning, noon, and sunset tours.

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Naval Station Norfolk Catching Norfolk’s Character The world’s largest naval base sits on 4,300 logistics ships, aircraft, and helicopters. Dwarfed by the imposing aircraft carrier acres of the Sewell’s Point peninsula in The base supports U.S. Naval Operations U.S.S. Theodore Roosevelt beyond the jetty, Hampton Roads. It is home to 134 aircraft in the Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean Sea sport fishermen enjoy an afternoon on and 75 ships, including aircraft carriers, and Indian Ocean. the waters of Hampton Roads. The ever- cruisers, destroyers, amphibious ships, and present ships are a large part of the person- the Department of the Navy’s supply and ality of this unique setting.

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Old Dominion Sailboat Team (above) Dress Whites (opposite) The sailing team Sailors in service dress whites line the decks practices maneuvers and hones their sea- of the U.S.S. Porter (DDG 78) arriving at manship skills on the challenging waters of her berth in Norfolk, guided by the tug, the busy Elizabeth River. National champi- Marci Moran. Commissioned in 1999, the ons, this team of winners is getting used to guided missile destroyer is the fifth U.S. crossing the finish line first. Naval ship to bear the name U.S.S Porter.

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The Elizabeth River (top and bottom) Loading Coal (opposite) As smaller boats enjoy a leisurely day on onto the deck of a commercial ship. The Handling sixty-five million tons per year, the river, it’s all business on the working Norfolk International Terminals is the these coal-loading docks are the most docks of the Elizabeth River. Above, a fully- largest terminal of the Virginia Port modern and efficient in the world. Each loaded container ship fires up its engine Authority. year, 2,700 ships load at these facilities, and prepares to leave. Below, a giant crane making Hampton Roads the ninth busiest is in the process of lowering containers port in the country.

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Barge on the Lafayette Norfolk Yacht & Country Club Marine traffic on the Lafayette River is This historic country club on the Lafayette always varied and interesting, as commer- River opened in 1896, creating a gracious cial ships and barges pass private recre- and elegant setting for its members. NYCC ational boats, sightseeing boats, and mili- hosts annual regattas and has a health tary ships. club, swimming pools, tennis courts, and restaurants.

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Life on the Lafayette River (above) Shores of Isle of Wight County (opposite) The flowing rivers that feed into Hampton Established in 1634, the beautiful Isle of edge making it one of the most coveted and Roads and the great Chesapeake Bay create Wight County, along the western banks of venerable neighborhoods in the Tidewater some of the most beautiful riverfront real the James River, is one of the original eight area. The rhythmic pattern along the shore- estate in Virginia. This quiet cove on the shires, or counties, in Virginia. The lush, line is created by stone jetties that prevent Lafayette River shows the tranquil intimacy manicured lawns of many historic homes beach erosion and protect the shoreline of waterside living. and mansions reach down to the river’s from wind and the wakes of passing boats.

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Sunset on (opposite) Fishing at Oceanview Pier (top and bottom) A magnificent sunset paints the sky over The view is spectacular and the fishing is overnight, created by the primal forces Willoughby Spit, a peninsula of land mark- great from Norfolk’s new Oceanview Pier of the Great Coastal Hurricane of 1806. ing the southern entrance to Chesapeake on Willoughby Spit. The waters are flush Since that time, breakwaters were created Bay that is bordered by Willoughby Bay to with croaker, spot, bluefish, flounder, trout, to protect it from likely destruction by the south and Hampton Roads to the west. and striper, to name a few. Historically, the future hurricane forces along Atlantic seven-mile-long Willoughby Spit appeared shores.

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Hermitage Foundation Museum Hermitage Gardens Situated on impeccably landscaped The historic Hermitage Museum is tucked after the family moved to Norfolk perma- grounds, complete with rose gardens and away in a residential neighborhood in nently. Serious fine art collectors, the statuary, the Hermitage Museum presents Norfolk. Originally built in 1895 as a five- Sloanes founded the city’s Society of Arts the lifestyle and art collection of the room vacation home for wealthy New and first art museum, which became the wealthy Sloane family during the first Yorkers, William and Florence Sloane, it Chrysler Museum of Art. half of the 20th century. was expanded over time to forty-two rooms

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Federal-style Architecture (opposite) Norfolk Botanical Gardens (above) The precise details of this Norfolk town- Deep-purple tulips adorn the Sarah Lee of perennials, annuals, and ornamental house entranceway in the Freemason Baker Perennial Garden. The centerpiece shrubs. The Baker Family funded many district beautifully illustrate the popular of the one-acre garden is a limestone foun- features throughout the Norfolk Botanical Federal-style architecture that flowered tain and terraced canals that create the Gardens with their generous donations. during the early decades of a newly inde- tranquil sound of gently flowing water, pendent America. surrounded by over two-hundred varieties

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Rotunda at the Gardens Nature’s Brushstrokes (top) Rhododendrons in Bloom (bottom) Edged with blooming rhododendrons, the In this idyllic scene, an artist captures the The original blooms that were planted in Norfolk Botanical Gardens Rotunda is one beauty of these lush gardens with her 1938 consisted of 2,000 rhododendrons, of several indoor facilities for private or paintbrush. Nature’s palette of brilliant 4,000 azaleas, several thousand shrubs and corporate events. Overlooking a patio and shapes and colors has always beckoned trees, and 100 bushels of daffodils. Since fountain in the heart of the gardens, it is painters to re-create the area’s exceptional then, the gardens have grown in size and a rainy-day site for outdoor weddings. landscapes on canvas. beauty.

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Flowing Lion (above) An American Artist in Europe (opposite) The numerous gardens of the Norfolk The Statuary Vista is an elegantly beautiful at the U.S. Capitol dome. The pieces Botanical Gardens are accented with small outdoor sculpture garden. It features a depict artists such as Rembrandt, Rubens, and large fountains, reflecting pools, playful promenade lined by 19th-century marble Canova, Phidias, Murillo, Durer, and fountain decorations, and famous historic figures of well-known European artists and DaVinci; all statues were sculpted by statues showcased in The Statuary Vista one American artist, Thomas Crawford, Sir Moses Jacob Ezekiel. area. famous for his impressive Statue of Freedom

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The World Trade Center (top) Norfolk Waterfront (bottom) The Confederate Monument (opposite) Norfolk’s World Trade Center hosts a vari- Norfolk’s historic downtown waterfront, on This 1907 statue in Norfolk’s financial ety of international service providers under the scenic Elizabeth River, features water- district commemorates the last reunion one roof, including customs brokers, freight front restaurants, shops, the Chrysler Art of Confederate Civil War survivors. The forwarders, international companies, and Museum, and the Nauticus Maritime likeness of a young Confederate soldier government agencies. It is one of 241 such Museum as well as ferries and sightseeing stands fifteen feet in the air atop a white centers in sixty countries. boats. granite pedestal.

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The MacArthur Memorial (above) Owen B. Pickett U.S. Customhouse Tribute to a Hero (opposite, bottom) The memorial to World War II’s renowned (opposite, top) The hub of the MacArthur Memorial General Douglas MacArthur consists of Norfolk was one of the first ports in the Complex is the restored 1850 Norfolk City four buildings in MacArthur Square: nation to have an official U.S. Customs Hall which is home to the Jean MacArthur archives, library, research center, and a Office. Other than a short time during the (Mrs. Douglas MacArthur) Research rotunda where he and his wife are buried. Civil War, it has served Norfolk since 1858. Center, housing the general’s archived memorabilia.

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Harrison Opera House The Chrysler Museum of Art (top) The (bottom) Home of the Virginia Opera Company, the Founded in 1939, the museum’s collection This 1912 beaux-arts opera house was orig- was once a World grew dramatically when automobile heir inally a burlesque and vaudeville theater War II USO theater. Newly renovated with and art collector Walter P. Chrysler, Jr. owned by the famous Wells brothers. It is elaborate chandeliers and grand, sweeping donated his collection to the city of now home to the Virginia Stage Company, staircases, its elegant charm evokes a Norfolk. Today more than 30,000 objects a nationally recognized professional theater gracious bygone era. span nearly 4,000 years of art history. group.

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Old Dominion University (top) Friendship Park (bottom) Waterside Festival Marketplace (opposite) Old Dominion University was honored in Friendship Park was a gift to Norfolk from Located along the banks of the Elizabeth 2005 as one of the best colleges in the the government of China in 1983. Also River in downtown Norfolk, Waterside is a Southeast by The Princeton Review. A known as Pagoda Park, this idyllic down- real festival of shopping, dining, and enter- handsomely landscaped campus, with tree- town oasis is beautifully cultivated with tainment. After the sun goes down, the lined walkways, creates a small-college profuse gardens and an authentic Koi pond. night life starts up at five different clubs. feel for this respected institution.

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Epworth Methodist Church (above) Freemason Street Baptist Church (opposite) Services in the original church building of Thomas U. Walter, renowned 19th-century the Norfolk Epworth Methodist congrega- architect of the U.S. Capitol dome, tion began in 1848. By 1894, the present designed the stunning Gothic-Revival building was completed in the dramatic sanctuary of this historic Baptist church, Romanesque architectural style. The bell built in 1848, in downtown Norfolk. tower chimes play daily at noon.

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Norfolk Academy (above) Loyal Mascot (opposite) Norfolk Academy was founded in 1728, A statue of Norfolk Academy’s beloved making it the oldest secondary school in bulldog mascot is poised on the rim of the Virginia and the eighth oldest in the United fountain. The highly-acclaimed private States. A college preparatory school for academy serves grades one through twelve boys, it merged with the Country Day and is recognized for academic excellence. School for Girls in 1966.

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Chrysler Hall Performing Arts Center (top) Arena (bottom) The Part of the Scope complex, the elegant, Home to the Norfolk Admirals professional The Virginia Zoological Park’s nearly four 2300-seat Chrysler Hall is Norfolk’s top per- hockey team and Arena Racing USA, the hundred inhabitants consist of Siberian formance hall and home to the Virginia Scope Arena hosts a variety of events, tigers, elephants, monkeys, reptiles, and Symphony. The center hosts popular Broad- including national rock concert tours and birds. The new Africa exhibit added nine way shows and world class artists. popular family shows like the Ringling new species, including zebras, lions, Brothers and Barnum and Bailey Circus. meerkats, and these exquisite giraffes.

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Moses Meyer House and Garden (opposite) Historic Willoughby-Baylor House (above) This Federal-style house and its gardens in The Norfolk History Museum at the 1794, the home was originally Norfolk are administered by the Chrysler Willoughby-Baylor House offers tours of owned by Captain William Willoughby Museum of Art as a showplace of what life the refurbished Federal-style townhouse and later by the Baylor family. was like at the turn of the 18th century. that incorporates local decorative arts of the Family portraits by acclaimed artist, Gilbert period and presentations on historical build- Stuart grace the walls. ings and events throughout Norfolk. Built in

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Doumar’s Cones and Barbecue Vintage Ads on Granby Street (top and bottom) Ads that were freshly painted on a down- Doumar’s Cones and Barbecue is a staple town building in the 1950’s, reflect Virginia in Norfolk. Opened in 1934, it’s the longest Beach’s ongoing connection with its three running drive-in restaurant in America and military bases: Oceana Naval Air Station, the home of the first ice cream cone the Naval Amphibious Base Little Creek, machine. and Fort Story Army Base.

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The and Marine Science Center (top and opposite) The mosaic dolphin sculpture in front of the aquarium is a tribute to A Dolphin’s PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PromisePUBLISHERS, a non-profit organization that PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS raises money for the Lance Armstrong Livestrong Foundation for cancer research. Ten-percent of the proceeds benefit the Aquarium’s efforts to rescue and study stranded sea animals. Throughout the year, the center offers boating excursions to watch dolphins and whales, and to study marine life.

Virginia Aquarium (left) A curious sea turtle investigates delighted onlookers at the Virginia Aquarium. One of the nation’s top-ten aquariums, this acclaimed Virginia Beach attraction show- cases the complex variety of marine life in the mid-Atlantic and Chesapeake Bay.

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Bell House (above) Flame of Hope (opposite) The Bell House is a lovely example of the The eternal flame is an ever-present visual region’s 19th-century residential architec- commemorative of Vietnam’s POW’s and ture. Built circa 1820, the home currently MIA’s. The memorial is located near the serves as the official residence of the com- entrance to Oceana Naval Air Station in manding officer of the Oceana Naval Air Virginia Beach, where jets can be seen Station. during their take off.

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Cavalier Hotels of Virginia Beach (top) The Edgar Cayce Institute (bottom) World Headquarters for Psychic Research The historic Cavalier-on-the-Hill opened Founded in 1931 by controversial psychic in 1927 and attracted wealthy vacationers and healer Edgar Cayce, The Association In the late 19th century, a Kentuckian thousands of documented readings. His who arrived at the hotel’s own train stop. for Research and Enlightenment began in named Edgar Cayce realized he could enter psychic work has been carried on at the Now, with its modern counterpart, this building. The educational organization a meditative state and answer questions Institute’s international headquarters in Cavalier-on-the-Ocean, the tradition of outgrew this original space and is now people posed on any given subject. Over Virginia Beach. excellence continues. located in new quarters. the next forty-five years, Cayce performed

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The Neptune Festival (top and bottom) The Ultimate Sandcastle (opposite) A row of exquisitely detailed sandcastles The Neptune Festival, which began in line the beach as far as the eye can see 1973, has blossomed into one of the top during the festival’s much-anticipated sand- ten festivals on the east coast. It begins in sculpting competition. The region’s finest March with a gala, and events continue artisans create their masterpieces safely from May through September, including out of the tide’s reach. the popular sand-sculpting competition.

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Mount Trashmore Park (top and bottom) A Shoreline Playground (opposite) The City of Virginia Beach transformed bike trails, a skate park, walking and jog- Virginia Beach draws its share of enthusias- solid waste disposal into a beautiful recre- ging paths, picnic areas, and two freshwater tic surfers and boogie boarders. Beyond the ational park with creativity, style and a lakes stocked with fish. It is a recycling waves, a catamaran searches for a breeze, sense of humor. Aptly named Mount wonder. as sailors and beach-goers soak in the sun- Trashmore, the 62-foot-high mountain shine. features the City Seal of Virginia Beach,

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Naval Aviation Monument, Monument Park (above and left) Virginia Beach is home to Naval Air Station PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTSOceana, thePUBLISHERS largest master jet fighter base PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS for Tomcats and Hornets in the United States. This monument, by Oregon sculptor Michael Maiden, pays tribute to the U.S. Navy’s airmen and the area’s rich aviation heritage.

Norwegian Lady (opposite) The Norwegian Lady in Monument Park is a gift from the people of Norway commem- orating the 1891 shipwreck of the Norwe- gian barque, Dictator, and the rescue of eight crewmen by the local Coast Guard. The turbulent Virginia-North Carolina coast is known as the “Graveyard of the Atlantic” for the 2,000 sunken ships in the region.

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PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PROPERYAtlantic Wildfowl OFHeritage TWIN Museum LIGHTS PUBLISHERS (above) The Atlantic Wildfowl Heritage Museum is located in the DeWitt Cottage, the oldest oceanfront cottage in Virginia Beach. The center shares information on migratory wildfowl that pass through the mid-Atlantic coast with woodcarvings, art and artifacts.

The Sailors’ Lifeline (above and left) New (right) This historic 1915 Coast Guard station In the Tidewater area of Virginia, where on the Virginia Beach boardwalk is now a American history goes back four hundred museum that showcases lifesaving equip- years, it’s not surprising that the “new” ment of the early 20th century, exhibits Cape Henry Lighthouse is over 100 years artifacts from the Norwegian ship, Dictator, old and the old lighthouse, in the back- and offers educational programs. ground, dates back to 1792.

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Beacon of Light (opposite) A Tale of Two Lighthouses (above) Old Glory flies in a brisk Atlantic wind Adjacent to its replacement, the old Cape on the keeper’s cottage of the new Cape Henry Light was the first lighthouse built Henry Lighthouse. The cast-iron tower fea- by a young American government to make tures a light that can be seen nineteen the Chesapeake Bay safe and navigable. miles from shore.

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King Neptune, God of the Sea Virginia Beach Fishing Pier This massive bronze statue of Neptune muscular Neptune is surrounded by the Scenic Virginia Beach Fishing Pier at 15th was funded by Virginia Beach’s highly creatures of his realm, a seventeen-foot Street and Atlantic Avenue, juts out one- acclaimed Neptune Festival and created by dolphin, an eleven-foot loggerhead turtle, thousand feet over the ocean. With excep- noted Richmond sculptor Paul DiPasquale. an eight-foot octopus, and other creatures tional deep-sea fishing venues, Virginia The finished work of art stands a royal of the deep. Beach is ranked one of the top 25 fishing twenty-six feet tall. Trident in hand, the destinations by Field and Stream magazine.

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Life’s a Beach-Ball Virginia Beach (top and bottom) A popular oceanside resort, beautiful Virginia Beach is a fabulous summer vaca- Virginia Beach has a personality all its own. tion spot where frolicking in the waves and The historic boardwalk is scattered with soaking up the sun’s rays is highly encour- giant sculptures of beach balls, sand cas- aged. In addition, visitors may appreciate tles, sea turtles, and the Roman god the city’s wide variety of restaurants and Neptune. shops along its three-mile boardwalk.

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Charter Boats (above) Rudee Inlet (bottom) Oceanfront Paradise (opposite) A great day in Virginia Beach begins aboard At day’s end, when deep-sea fishing boats Hotels, condos, and cottages line the prime a charter boat on Lake Rudee, then head- return to their slips on Lake Rudee, the oceanfront property of Virginia Beach, ing out the Rudee Inlet for a memorable docks are abuzz with excitement as anglers providing a variety of wonderful seaside day of deep-sea fishing in search of native weigh in their catches and lament about resort accomodations. Rudee Inlet cuts wahoo or yellow-fin tuna and other species the big ones that got away. across the beach, providing easy access that migrate along the coast. from Lake Rudee.

126 Jake McGuire is known for his striking photos of American cities and landscapes. His photos appear in private collections, exhibitions, offices, and are often found in airline and travel maga- zines. He has won 11 awards for photography and photojournalism. In January of 1989, the Presidential Inaugural Committee commissioned McGuire to produce a signed, limited edition print of the White House. It was signed by the President and Vice President and given to those who performed at the Inaugural Gala. In March of 1992, McGuire received an Arts America PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS grant fromPROPERY the United States OF TWIN Information LIGHTS Agency PUBLISHERS to give photography lectures in the Persian Gulf Sheikdom of Bahrain. In April of 1997, LIFE MAGAZINE selected one of McGuire’s photos for the cover of a special edition of LIFE. In August of 2004, McGuire joined forces with Twin Lights Publishers to produce a series of colorful photographic journals. Titles that are currently available include, Washington, D.C.: A Photographic Portrait, Baltimore, MD: A PROPERY OF TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS PhotographicPROPERY Portrait, and OF Annapolis, TWIN LIGHTSMD: A PUBLISHERS Photographic Portrait. He is also working on a book on the coast of New England to be released in the spring of 2007 by Twin Lights Publishers. See more of Jake’s work at www.TheMcGuireCollection.com.

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128 PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHOTOGRAPHY Jake McGuire A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT VIRGINIA VIRGINIA TIDEWATER TIDEWATER

TIDEWATER VIRGINIA A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAIT JAKE MCGUIRE TWIN LIGHTS PUBLISHERS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS PROPERY OF OF PROPERY OF PROPERY OF PROPERY PROPERY OF OF PROPERY OF PROPERY OF PROPERY Jamestown, and Williamsburg. and Williamsburg. Jamestown, Virginia Beach, as well as historic Yorktown, as well historic Beach, Virginia the communities of Hampton, Newport News, of Hampton, Newport the communities Norfolk, Chesapeake, Portsmouth, Suffolk, and Suffolk, Chesapeake, Portsmouth, Norfolk, world, the modern Tidewater Virginia area includes Virginia the modern Tidewater world, Situated on one of the greatest natural harbors in the TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS TWIN PUBLISHERS LIGHTS PROPERY OF OF PROPERY OF PROPERY OF PROPERY PROPERY OF OF PROPERY OF PROPERY OF PROPERY