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E b i s u , M e g u r o & A r o u n d EBISU | DAIKANYAMA | NAKA-MEGURO | MEGURO

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Strolling along the 2 Seeing Japan’s con- 4 Visiting Meguro Meguro-gawa in Naka- tribution to the world of Fudōson (p 95), a spiritual Meguro (p 94). It’s not so photography at the Tokyo centre since the days of much the river – it’s a canal, Metropolitan Museum of Edo. really – but the unhurried Photography (p 94). 5 Browsing the design village vibe and artsy shops 3 Squeezing into a space shops on Meguro-dōri, on either side that make at one of Ebisu’s popular home of MISC (Meguro this one of Tokyo’s most standing bars, like Buri Interior Shops Community; cherished spots. (p100 ). p 95).

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For more detail of this area, see Map p 291 A 93 Lonely Planet’s Explore Ebisu, Meguro & Around Top Tip Ebisu and Meguro are Tokyo on a more human scale, You don’t have to spend with low-rise buildings, shopping arcades and a smatter- much time walking around ing of down-to-earth eateries and bars. This conspires to Daikanyama or Naka- create a bit of a retro Showa period (1926–89) vibe, which Meguro to discover that makes the area popular with the 30- and 40-somethings bicycles are the preferred who came of age in the last throes of the era. mode of transportation for The residential districts of Daikanyama and Naka- many locals. It’s the best Meguro, to the southwest, pair this low-key vibe with way to explore the nooks some serious style, evident in the high concentration of and crannies of these trendsetting shops, restaurants and cafes. Here, it’s the residential enclaves, where neighbourhoods themselves that are the attraction and many shops, cafes and an afternoon wandering these quiet alleys is the perfect parks are hidden away from antidote to bouncing from sight to sight in central Tokyo. the main train-station areas. None of the sights in this chapter are major, but they Get wheels at Tokyo Rent a are rewarding nonetheless: you’ll fi nd the museums Bike (p 102 ). and temples here less crowded and less commercial, frequented primarily by those who live nearby. If you feel like stretching your legs, it’s a pleasant walk down Best Places Komazawa-dōri from Ebisu to Daikanyama and Naka- 5 to Eat

Meguro, or alternatively down Meguro-dōri to the MISC EBISU, MEGURO & AROUND  H i g a s h i - Y a m a ( p 9 9 ) design district. Foodies too will fi nd much to ooh and ah over here, as these neighbourhoods are chock-a-block  T o n k i ( p 9 9 ) with small, but highly rated restaurants.  D a I s a ( p 9 9 )  I p p o ( p 9 8 )  A f u r i ( p 9 8 ) Local Life For reviews, see p 98 A  Eating Foodies can’t get enough of the pizzas at Da Isa (p99 ), and the Ebisu lunchtime crowd loves the rāmen (noodles in broth) at Afuri (p98 ). Best Places 6 to Drink  Hangouts Ebisu is known for its lively tachinomi-ya (standing bars), Naka-Meguro for its riverside cafes and  Nakame Takkyū Lounge hard-to-fi nd lounges. (p 100 )  Shopping Daikanyama style blends imported prét-  Buri (p 100 ) à-porter with local designs. Naka-Meguro style adds  Kinfolk Lounge (p100 ) secondhand fi nds to the mix.  What the Dickens! (p100 )  Galleries Ebisu, Daikanyama and Naka-Meguro have For reviews, see p 100 a dispersed scene; get maps and fl yers at NADiff (p95 ). A

Best Places Getting There & Away 7 to Shop  Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Ebisu and  M I S C ( p 9 5 ) Meguro Stations. The Tōkyū Tōyoko Line runs from  Okura (p101 ) Shibuya to Daikanyama and Naka-Meguro.  Kamawanu (p101 )  Subway The Hibiya Line runs through Ebisu to For reviews, see p 101 Naka-Meguro; from Naka-Meguro, check if your train is A going to Shibuya on the Tōkyū Tōyoko Line or to Ebisu on the Hibiya Line. The Namboku and Mita Lines stop at Meguro and Shirokanedai.  Bus Buses 2 and 7 run from Meguro Station along Meguro-dōri, stopping at Ōtori-jinja-mae.